Today the weather is beautiful. Rain is often predicted for the afternoon but it doesn’t seem to happen.
We decided to explore the suburbs by bus before heading to the St Mary’s Church not far from our apartment.
But first a walk in a few different streets. Second last day and we discover a beautiful street called William street with some great businesses. We had coffee at O’Briens. Sounds like an Irish joke but they make good coffee.
William Street.
Then a wander in and out of Paper Tiger. A shop with everything cards, books, useful things , toys, gadgets, ….. I could go on .
Then Oska a lovely ladies clothes place, a jewellery place , Rouge Flowers, Fox & Co catering and cafe. The Green Room Wine Bar and Tuechters and great looking pub.
Then onto a bus and out past Murrayfield Rugby Stadium to a high street before wandering around and heading back to St Mary’s for a lunchtime concert. T
oday a pianist and a singer. It was a nice way to sit and relax before getting another bus yo the Royal Botanic Gardens.
Murrayfield Stadium. Home of Rugby . Arrival at the Botanic Gardens
What a great place. Lots of winding roads and pathways.
Rock gardens with a waterway
Great views to the city.
A lovely cafe.
Gallery with cafe to the side
And a very good public garden where people are shown how to grow edible foods themselves and maintain plots.
Medicinal plants. Resident squirrelA great show coming soon.
We walked a long way including a little more of the Water of Leith walk.
So peaceful.
After a quick trip home I went to my Irish massage man, Cathal to massage out the tightness and tiredness in my legs. Definitely worth it.
And then a wee visit to the new pub we found this morning Tuechters Bar & Bunker. We both had a great meal of seafood pie and scallop risotto. Helped along with a wee drink.
Inside the bar.
On the menu they had hundreds of Whiskeys. Steve decided he should try a wee dram so ordered a whiskey flight. 3 whiskeys an 8 yr 10 yr and a 12 yr. He had a nice time deciding which one he liked the best.
Steve took the Speyside flight.
I wanted to play the game they advertised
Our lovely waiter assured me it was too hard to win! And to just buy another drink.
A little sleep in today. Lots of late nights trying to see everything is exhilarating but tiring. Steve headed off to two sessions of the Writers Festival. I’ll be going tomorrow.
With plans to meet at Holyrood Palace I set off to the Royal Mile and after getting off a bus made my way down the hill. The Royal Mile connects Edinburgh Castle with the Palace. And along the way you pass every tourist shop. Tartan galore, kilt making shop ( which I thought was very quirky) fudge shops, cashmere, a Scottish Christmas shop, Celtic jewellery , just to name a few.
Call in to get your kilt made. Inside the kilt shop.
I called into the a Museum of Childhood and tripped down memory lane. All the games and toys I remember using. Oh how old I feel. It was a fun interactive place for children. Further along was the museum of Edinburgh. This tell the story of the history of this fascinating town.
I made it to the bottom of the hill and into Holyrood we went. A very good audio guide with pictures on the hand set made touring the various rooms of this smaller palace just right. No photos allowed.
It brought history alive particularly with the reign of Elizabeth of England and Mary of Scotland, married to Lord Dunbar. I’m listening to a book called The Last Tudor by Philippa Weir. She’s a great author for retelling historical stories and this one is about Lady Jane Grey and her sisters Catherine and Mary.
Holyrood with Arthur’s seat behind.
Deciding to head back to our apartment I caught a bus to the Museum of Scotland for another quick look and Steve went home via the Museum of Edinburgh.
Main Gallery at the Museum of Scotland
We had a quick turn around and out to Usher Hall. This is our third visit to this place. The orchestral type music is here. It’s a very comfortable theatre. Plenty of room for legs to stretch tonight was the Festival’s Closing Concert.
It featured the BBC Scottish Symphony with a dynamic American conductor Karina Canelakis . She had such control and was so expressive in her conducting. The program included a Rachmaninov Symphonic poem sung by a Soprano, Tenor and Bass with the Edinburgh Chorus. A full sound!
The Festival’s Director Nicola Benedetti.
After the concert, yet another bus back to the city for a quick dinner then into a line up for the Jazz Club. While in line we spied the cutest BMW bubble car.
A bubble car with band for tonight sitting waiting to go on .
I recognised the band sitting in the bar next door. Even they have to wait. The shows in these little downstairs bars are pretty much back to back! And if you get there late you might be standing. This is for the fringe shows. The big shows get you a numbered seat!
Tonight a fabulous performance by Valery Ponomarev on trumpet with a bass, sax , drummer and piano. It was a great night of jazz including some very funny chat by Valery. He’s 80. From Russia he has lived in the US for years. He’s played around the world including at this festival for 23 years.
He has written a book ‘On the Flip side of sound’ which he showed us and made many jokes about.
The whole night was great – also because we met some people in the queue. They are friends – one from Edinburgh and a couple from near Chester England. We had a fun night together.
Saturday. The sun is shining. Everyone is out. Locals as well as tourists are making the most of this beautiful day. The festival officially ends this weekend so it’s a good chance to see things.
We chose to do a quiet activity. No loud musicals or street theatre. We caught the bus 26 to Roseburn Just a few km from the city centre. It’s a world away.
We got off the bus and crossed an old stone bridge which lead down the slope to the Water of Leith , a small creek which winds around the city to the port of Leith.
We started walking along a softly padded path under trees alongside the water. Immediately I felt relaxed and a million miles from the busy festival city.
There were Saturday joggers, lots of dog walkers and a few tourists like us.
We followed a few ducks as they splashed along and admired the luck of the people who lived on the opposite side of the water.
I was imagining being invited to a garden party in summer drinking a gin and listening to the splashing water.
Gin on the lawn anyone ?
It wasn’t long before we came to a bridge crossing the waterway then climbed about 80 steps to the Museum of Modern Art.
We arrived at it garden entrance. Set up with tables we stopped for coffee.
People sitting in the warming sun were locals with dogs : what a great place to walk to and meet friends.
Graduated paint colour as you walk down the hall.
We took the lift up to the gallery floors. A special exhibition was on. It was colourful and meaningful.
The main doors took us to the sculpture gardens and the main gates.
Crossing the road we arrived at the Modern 2. This was a school going back years. In fact I read a book where the school had a mention as some of the plot took place there! So I was ready for the beautiful building with the turrets.
Following the path down through the gardens we turned left through some iron gates and continued on the Leith Walk.
Around the next corner- a little waterfall.
The water meandered along coming to the very picturesque Dean Village.
Dean Village
Taking a break in a children’s playground we found another piece of history.
If you come to Edinburgh you really must do this walk. You can do a long version or this section.
We arrived at Stockbridge which was jumping.
It’s a little village with pubs, restaurants & cafe and yet another charity shop. I’ve noticed these charity shops everywhere . A bit like our St Vincent’s de Paul. But lots of different types of charities. With some great looking clothes and items in their windows. If you like vintage these shops are for you.
Approaching Stockbridge.
We rested our feet at Hectors with a beer and a fish cake for me and a pie for Steve. Not just any old pie. A pie that won an award. every pie seems to have won an award.
Did I say we love our apartment. It’s so handy to everything including buses to all parts of the city. So home we went for an hours rest before dinner with Bill & M-F at the Brassiere near us.
But first another bus ride and a laid back guitar player. Very cool.
Delicious prawns and a gin and we were off to Usher Hall again to hear Simon Bolivar.
This is a world renowned orchestra from Venezuela. And it’s a young orchestra. Aged up to 28.
They started with a piece composed by a Venezuelan Paul Desenne, a man who helped establish the orchestra.
The next was a composition by another Venezuelan Gonzalo Gray-who was in the orchestra and it featured the cuatro. This is like a small guitar.
Jorge Glem came on stage and had wonderful presence.
The conductor obviously knew him well and boy could he play. It was such a lively piece. The Venezuelan people in the audience were on their feet cheering. It was infectious.
The audience demanded an encore and he played the most amazing arrangement-based on a Viennese waltz which turned into a Venezuelan bear. Maracas were out. Feet are stamping. Fabulous.
After interval they played a more Mahler Symphony 1in D Major. Beautiful energy in the playing. And then the audience demanded more.
So they delivered. The musicians brought our their symbolic medals on a Venezuelan coloured ribbon hung them around their necks. And the rhythmic beats started. The drums, cymbals the hand clamping. The shouting, the standing , sitting. An in stage party!
The orchestra wearing their medals and ribbons
You couldn’t help smiling when it was all over. We met our friends again outside and said a fond farewell. For 2 weeks. We’ll be seeing them in NY for our Galapagos swim trek reunion.
Fans of the Royal family or not there is always a fascination with their castles, palaces and this ship.
Decommissioned in 1997 as a working ship for the Queen, it’s clocks were stopped at 3 minutes past 3 when she stepped off the ship for the last time.
I thoroughly enjoyed the tour. As usual everything was well organised. No crowds to battle. Tickets are sold in entry times to stagger the people coming on board.
It took us first to the Captains bridge. All the important equipment for driving this ship! Beautiful shiny instruments now looking outdated.
We explored the crew’s areas. The mess for the officers, the seaman’s quarters.
Of course the Royal bedrooms were understated elegance. The Queen and Prince Phillip had adjacent rooms with single beds. Mmmm.
The Queen’s bedroom Prince Phillip’s bedroom.
The only Royal bedroom with a double was the honeymoon suite. Charles apparently requested a double when he and Diana married. Unfortunately, it didn’t work for them.
The sundeck room was fun with its bar and games and great views.
Formal dining room
We followed the numbered trail around the ship with our little audio handheld set pressed to our ears.
The officers’ dining room looked quite formal except for the wombat sitting in the fan ! Thrown there at one drinks session and never taken down.
As we moved around the ship there were lots of family photos. I think the Royal family loved being on board.
We saw the laundry, the hospital and the formal dining room room where many Presidents and Heads of State have been entertained
The sitting room.
By this time Steve would have enjoyed a beer. So he sat at the Officers bar. Unfortunately these were fake beers.
The ship is docked at Leith – the port about 20 minutes by tram from the centre of Edinburgh. Such a great tram system. One tram does a route from Leith through the city and then out to the airport.
And a big applause for the buses. We have worked them out and you can get a tap-tap-cap fare where after 2 rides the fares are capped for the day at £4.80 in total. So we’ve been jumping on and off the buses. Great bonus with a sore knee.
Being in Leith had me singing the Proclaimers’ song ‘Sunshine on Leith’ – it’s beautiful and is one of my choir songs. This clip shows scenes in and around Leith filmed in a cafe there.
There is so much on in this Festival city. Everywhere you walk someone puts a brochure in your hand.
One of the Irish comedians. It was F#^#%ing funny.
We went to The Best of Irish Comedy. In a basement with a bar, of course, and a very funny MC who reminded the people in the front row perhaps they should have chosen seats further back. Lots of ribbing for them.
There were three comedians. The first a young woman who was great – very funny.
The second, a young man, a bit of a storyteller in a very funny way.
The last act was a man with a stammer I thought he was pretending. But no, he had quite a stammer. Which became the theme of an ongoing joke. He was funny but I found it a bit excruciating. I kept wanting to give the words to him.
Deciding what to see is the problem. When we got the program a few months ago we were choosing blind! That is, we didn’t know anything about any of the Fringe shows.
We knew the Oslo Philharmonic, the Simon Bolivar Orchestra. But with the Fringe it’s pot luck. We booked a few winners and a few we should have left alone. Not that they were bad. They just weren’t us. It’s probably better to come and check out things here. There a much more to take in than looking in a programme!
Today we saw Big Fish. an American short musical. It had appeal, but for us in a crowded theatre we felt out of it for young people loud, music thumping and actors singing loudly. And the most uncomfortable seats!
We fitted a drink in on the roof terrace of Harvey Nicholls. Beautiful views. Nice gin.
Then off to the a Royal Mile. Across to the Old City.
Yes, the Tattoo. We were looking forward to this so much. There were so many people. But we managed to find a little Mexican (!) place for a quick bite. Then a slow walk up the Mile …..
It was very well organised. Thousands of people. They have little mobile bars set up in the Castle forecourt. So people were milling around. We made our way up to our seats. Nice & high so we could take everything in.
Then the show started. Bands of all kinds from Norway, Switzerland, USA, Scots College Sydney, Irish fling dancers, drummers and dancers from Trinidad, more Pipe bands, precision marching. And all the time projected colours and images into the castle walls.
Each year there is a theme. This year “Stories”. Unfortunately there was no commentary like you get on the tv version of the Tattoo. It would have been good to have someone tell you who was on. I was right as Steve knows about bands and which countries they were from. Our friends found the theme Stories hard to follow.
I tend to just go with the flow. And loved it. The whole experience. We chatted to the people around us. There was quite a party atmosphere. We had New Zealanders, Sydneysiders, English, Japanese.
The show finishes with all the performers on the forecourt. Marching , singing, dancing. And fireworks.
We made our way down from the Castle. It was so busy but orderly and friendly. And home by midnight! Poor Bill and M-F had a 40 minute drive to their little village outside of Edinburgh.
It’s always fun to meet up with friends to share a great experience so we thank Bill and Marie-France for driving up from Sussex to spend a few days in Edinburgh.
We were meeting them at midday for lunch before our Acoustic Blues at the Jazz Club.
So we set out early to go to the Writers Museum and St Giles’ church first.
The Museum dedicated to Scotland’s 3 famous authors : Scott, Stevenson & Robert Burns
We had passed it yesterday on our walk but didn’t have time to call in. Today we did. A very beautiful constrained tribute to these three authors. Back in Australia it is Book Week for Children and our grandson loves Dr Seuss! He dressed as The Cat in the Hat and it fits well with my visit to the Writers Museum.
He may grow up to read Stevenson’s Treasure Island.
We continued onto St Giles’ Cathedral, founded in 1124 by King David I, has been a working church for almost 900 years.
Just one of the many stained glass windows.
A little more walking brought us to the top of pretty West Bow Street to Howies Restaurant. I had read about it being great food and its special £17.95 lunch and made a booking. It was perfect for a reunion with Bill and M-F. We met Bill a few years ago on a swim trek in Galapagos and then met M-F when last in London.
Lunch was terrific. Haggis for Bill and Steve’ entree!
From lunch we walked to nearby Chambers Street and the Jazz Club. Down the stairs we went into a suitably dark jazz club atmosphere even though it was 2.30 in the afternoon.
An hour of mellow jazz and a G&T followed.
Then off to the Museum of Scotland. What a place! M-F and I went to the special exhibition ‘Beyond the Little Black Dress’
Designers from Dior to Issey Miyake
From design classics to cutting-edge catwalk creations, Beyond the Little Black Dress deconstructs this iconic garment and examines the radical power of the colour black in fashion.
It was lovely to share it with the French M-F as she is very interested in textiles and fashion. We had a lot of fun deconstructing the LBD’s on display.
Bill and Steve checked out some other galleries but truely you need a day to see it all.
Just one of the many galleries
Steve ran off to the Writer’s festival so I had to make my way back to our little apartment. Not too far. About 2km. I hobbled along until in the traffic jam around the Grassmarket I spied a taxi. I jumped in and encouraged the driver to do a 3 point turn to get out of the traffic and into the direction I wanted to go! he says I’m not supposed to but did!
I was home and resting withered in 10 mins. Because after an hour we headed out again to go back across to the Festival Theatre to see the Alvin Ailey American Dance Theatre. Founded in 1958 by dancer, choreographer, and visionary Alvin Ailey, to bring African American modern dance to audiences.
We worked out the bus routes and times and caught it to the Festival Theatre.
The modern foyer.
The theatre itself appeared more traditional.
Inside the theatre.
It was described as a mix of dance with ballet and modern technique, it exudes an easy, carefree energy. It was exciting. The recorded music was jazz in the first part then the second dance was a mixtape’ of soul, hip-hop and R&B . I liked it – Steve not so much!
Back on the bus through the streets heaving with Festival goers.
We may have 10 days here but there is a lot to see and do in this compact city.
We set out at 9.30 after a late night unpacking and settling into our little Edinburgh apartment.
We walked down the street and around the corner and 5minutes later we could see Edinburgh castle.
Our apartment is the little red marking bottom left.
We walked in it’s shadow heading towards Grassmarket in the Old Town before heading up a winding street to Greyfriars Bobby.
Steve posed next to Bobby the faithful dog to show he really does like dogs!
The faithful Bobby.
We had time for a coffee at Bobby’s just opposite the National Museum of Scotland. I’ll be visiting there later this week.
We had booked a fringe event. The Tale of Two Cities. Our leader Peter arrived and is a very personable friendly Scot. It was a small group a couple from Canada and mother & son from Boston and a young uni student from England – Brighton.
We headed straight into Greyfriars Church and Graveyard. Our storyteller started recounting the story of the Old Town. He took us through then down the hill to Grassmarket. He grew up not far from here. One of 10 children. Life was not easy.
We headed up the very pretty West Bow Street
West Bow curves gently up hill towards the Royal Mile
Peter led us up straits through laneways always with an interesting story to tell.
We came to the Writers Museum.
I’ll be visiting the writers Museum.
Peter told a very good tale about the first public loos.
A man took money to extend his rather tent like cloak around a squatting client while he relieved himself. We arrived at the very busy Royal Mile which leads up to the Castle.
The Royal Mile was busy but we quickly escaped by going down a little lane. We would never have explored this part off the beaten track ! we then popped back out to the end of the Royal Mile and had a great view of the Bank of Scotland.
St Giles’ Church
Then it was down the winding hill toward the New Town. The Prince’s Street Gardens divide the old town / up the town and the new town. The Art Gallery sits overlooking the gardens and the forecourt was awash with noise and people. Festival fever: magicians, jazz bands acrobats. People everywhere sitting soaking up the sun eating cream watching the buskers.
We stopped at the monument to Sir Walter Scott, Scotlands famous author. The monuments here are amazing. The higher the spire the more revered the person. Almost all men of course!
We walked to St Andrew’s square looking along Rose St towards Charlotte Square. Crossing St Andrew’s Square I was impressed with the low fence inside the park. – perfect for stopping and having a sit but no sitting for us. By now my legs were tired and I was longing for a sit down.
One more stop. the beautiful Bank of Scotland which we went into to admire the beautiful domed ceiling.
We finished near Waverley the big station after 3 hrs of walking. After farewells to our group Steve and I headed to the monument for sore feet and dry throats. The Duke of something or other.
We sat for an hour over a beer and soup. Then off to the Portrait Gallery in another beautiful building. Last stop the National Gallery before heading back to West End and our little apartment.
A little rest then a short stroll to meet Cathal my Irish massage therapist. He got me going again and that night we went to hear the Oslo Philharmonic.
What a performance. The orchestra were great and the pianist a dynamic young 36 year old woman , born in Beijing but living in the US.
To start though…..The orchestra tuned up and …..We were left waiting for her and the conductor to arrive on stage. Wait. Wait.
Her entrance made us sit up. Very attractive with a thigh high split dress. I whispered to Steve that she and the conductor must have been having a ‘ moment ’ back stage.
She had remarkable fingers flying over the keys in the Concerto for the left hand by Ravel. Composed for a pianist who had lost an arm in WW1. Fantastic piece. .
At the end of that piece she and the conductor – after many bows, left the stage for another few minutes. Then they made another entrance with her wearing another dress this time a bright yellow & very fitted dress. I have never seen someone leave the stage to change clothes while the orchestra sat waiting. I guess she needed the conductor to zip her dress.
Another wonderful piece.
There was then an interval and then just the orchestra performance of Shostakovich. 5th Symphony in D Minor.
Of course after the concert I had to research the pianist and turns out she just might be dating the 27 year old Finish conductor. ( for readers from Australia he was a young David Wenham look a like. )
Pack up time in our very good apartment. It was perfect for a few days stay. We had decided to stay in last night and get some fish n chips. No. Sunday night and nothing much was open. Except Indian.
This morning was another lovely day so we headed to the little main street to see a big cruise ship coming for a day. The street that was so quiet yesterday was awash with people today.
I wanted to visit the bookshop to get a few picture books for my little grandsons so Steve bravely drove down the little Main Street.
We heard ‘Steve!’ We were moving so slowly Steve glanced up and saw a friend from Brisbane. He and his wife were on the cruise. Naturally we parked and had a catch up.
This led to a very late breakfast and a late start at Scalloway. This small community is on the western side of the island about 15 minutes from Lerwick on the east.
A contrast to the two island Yell and Unst.
It has a lovely little harbour and lots of little boats tied up at marina bobbed and glistened in the sunlight.
The museum is next to the castle which is closed for repairs. Fortunately the museum was open as it had a great display on the Shetland Bus. For those who haven’t heard of the Shetland Bus it is a WW2 very moving story about the cooperation between the English, Shetland and Norway. During the war they needed to get fugitives and those trapped in an occupied Norway out. They started to use fishing boats.
Read about it here. It’s a fascinating story of incredible cooperation and bravery.
We drove south through Trondra a series of small islands. You can see the influence of Norway here. Even the houses have a distinct Norwegian appearance. Very well kept, painted bright colours, even made from timber a material in very short supply here the Shetlands.
Next stop was the Quendale Water Mill which has been restored to working condition. It’s a water wheel that was used for milling grain.
The crofters house museum was our next call. We arrived after the lunch break as it said ‘closed for lunch’ 1-2pm. We arrived at around 2.30 and walked in – actually ducked down and in and all was quiet. Finally a man opened the little door to the main crofters room. Rubbing sleep from his eyes he admitted he’d had a wee nap.
He made himself a coffee and then chatted to us for ages about the crofters life. Not that he was one but he has a good knowledge of it. This house is a project taken up by a a New Zealand architect in 1960. He had connections to the Shetlands …… read about it here.
A box bed in the Croft house. Doors for keeping you warm & cosy.
The Croft house was great to see. It wasn’t like a museum display. It was an original house as through someone had just walked out.
The sturdy Shetland pony.
Our last stop today was Jarlshof. This is one of the most important archaeological sites in the UK. A whole village was found buried. it’s a wonderfully presented history of not only had one group of people lived here but several subsequent groups.
The remains of the Norse house
Neolithic people first settled at this site in Shetland around 2700 BC, and it remained in use until the AD 1600s. Discoveries made here include oval-shaped Bronze Age houses, an Iron Age broch and wheelhouses, Then Norse long houses, built by Vikings, a medieval farmstead, a large broch and a laird’s house dating from the 1500s.
I have learned such a lot in a few days. Shetland has been an eye opener.
Waiting to cross the runway.
We got to little Sumburgh airport quickly by crossing the runway after watching a plane takeoff and stopping at a little petrol station – run by ….. the car hire company. Five minutes later we got to the airport entrance, & parked the hire car when a man came up and said I’ll take the keys! He identified himself as the car hire man so after a laugh together we did hand over the keys.
‘Would you like to inspect it ‘ I asked helpfully. ‘Oh no – and I saw you filling up with petrol before‘ he replied. It’s all good. Obviously he thought we looked trustworthy of no one bumps their cars in the Shetland.
Then the down side of our trip.
The flight was delayed for 2.5 hrs. They gave us a voucher for the tiny cafe where the women who ran it said she was ‘ off home soon’ We’d better spend our money. The most nutritious offering was a ham & salad sandwich. Or perhaps a rather hard sausage roll ? We bought crisps, chocolate, a sandwich for me and sausage roll for Steve. Great dinner. We had to buy our own beer as the voucher didn’t cover alcohol. Wouldn’t want us sozzled on the flight.
We now get to Edinburgh-at 10pm. Poor Steven our host, who is meeting us at the apartment with our bag. Hope he’s at a good Fringe show tonight! He’s a saint.
Later: We made it. 10.15 pm. Our host was great delivering our bag and waiting for us. The apartment is just right for 19 days in this beautiful city.
We woke up the sound of church bells. It’s Sunday and we are near two churches.
The sun is shining and the view from our little attic apartment windows is beautiful. Chimneys of different heights, and rooftops with angles and attics add interest to the skyline.
Steve was going on the boat to the island of Mousa We had missed it when we landed a few days ago so he was trying again. I decided not to ( I might regret it but reading about it, I’m not sure I want to walk on uneven ground or wet slippery paths as described. ) I tried to book on a bird watching tour from Lerwick Harbour but they were all booked out. Advice: no matter what you want to do these days you must book!
So I decided to walk and discover Lerwick in the sunlight. It’s been beautiful. I walked from our apartment to the church across the road and sat studying the stained glass windows.
I walked to Fort Charlotte, a wonderful fort that has never seen a shot fired in anger.
I passed at Lerwick police station and wondered if I would spy Jimmy Perez from the tv series Shetland.
Then I walked down hill through one of the many lanes from the higher part of the town to the waterfront. To cut the steep walk down they have added a series of steps.
I met a man with his goat Lucille. He told me she provided so much milk they had started their own goats milk soap company. I went into the shop and tried the various body butters and chatted to the lady who explained the process. Across the lane way was the Puffin Place where everything in the shop was somehow embellished with puffin pictures. I’m thinking the puffin is a little exploited.
See the goat outside his soap shop. And note the chimneys.
I continued along the road and met Jimmy , no, not Perez but a local who offered to show me around. We bought coffee and chatted but I assured him I was enjoying a stroll. He told me he was being picked up by boat soon to go to a bay nearby for a fishing competition. Now that would be interesting!
Sipping a coffee by the waterfront was peaceful and calming. Who could get stressed at this pace !
I walked the entire water front. Past Jimmy Perez’ house, the Lodeberrie. This is a house jutting in to the water where in years gone by boats would pull up to the house to unload their cargo. It’s now privately owned and the most photographed house here!
The Lodeberrie.
Lerwick like many other sea ports is host to the cruise ship! Not many……not enough to flood the town but to deliver some money to the locals. I hope so.
I walked towards the Museum of Shetland on the waterfront and passed the new theatre centre. They advertised a short film ‘ Welcome to Shetland’ ! I decided to see it and the 40 minute film showed a little of the history of this fascinating place. It also focused on the music. The violin or fiddle was a part of every Croft house. It provided the entertainment people needed to relax.
Outside the Museum
The Scottish music has great appeal – gets the feet tapping and the hands clapping. Traditionally played by men the violin is now favoured by Scottish women.
I was waiting for Steve and he arrived back full of stories about the boat trip to Mousa to see the broch. Perfect day for sailing.
The broch from the water It’s one of the best preserved broch probably because it’s so tall. What the inside would have looked like. Climb it if you dare. Steve didn’t. Too dangerous. From Mousa back to the mainland.
I wasn’t unhappy with my decision not to go. Although he saw seals from a distance. He didn’t see a puffin but saw some shags. and there was a lot of time on the island after walking the islands shoreline.
The Shetland Museum is very well displayed. It shows a timeline of the islands development. The Norse arriving and taking the land. The eventual return of Shetland back to Scotland as part of a dowry paid by the Kings of Norway when his daughter Princess Margereth married King James 111 of Scotland.
Beautiful lace sails
Of course the afternoon finished with a G&T in the local pub. The Douglas Arms.
Breakfast was held in the old world dining room and served by a friendly local girl. They are having a wedding at the hotel today so it as all busy busy!
We headed north to get the first ferry to Yell. A great name for an island. First stop was a teeny tiny Old Haa Museum. Its in a house belonging to one of the islands great characters I’d say. He was a crofter, fisherman , raconteur and part time dentist. There was a tray of teeth he had pulled over the years & there was a old recording of his voice ‘telling ‘ stories.
Outside the Old Haa Museum.
And right on time as predicted, the rain started. We drive the length of Yell island. It’s very barren. Hardly a tree to be seen.
Lots of hardy looking sheep grazing along the narrow roads with hardier looking people out on their properties mustering the sheep.
We got to the second ferry crossing. From Yell across to Unst. This is really getting northerly. It is the most northerly part of the United Kingdom. It has around 700 residents and is rugged , remote, open, wild and beautiful.
Each of the islands has a distinct personality. Unst is more settled and we spent more time on this island.
Unst is believed to be the first landing point of the Vikings in the North Atlantic. There are the remains of at least 60 longhouses, and the highest density of rural Viking sites anywhere, including Scandinavia.
An example of a longhouse A Viking longboat.
We visited the small but informative Unst Heritage Centre. This is an ideal first stop for anyone visiting the island. Visitors can explore the unique history of Unst through a display of artefacts donated by residents both past and present. The exhibitions depict geology, archeology, crofting and there are unique examples of lacework & knitting.
The displays depict life for a Crofter – farmer. Sleeping arrangements in the crofters house. Note the expandable cot.The most exquisite lace work. Done by lamplight.
For a small centre it is well worth the trip. We were there with a group of knitters & weavers from Scandinavia. They were in raptures.
We moved onto the Unst boat haven also in Haroldswick. And a haven it was. A well curated shed of boats outlining herring fishing from its earliest days until the present. Robert the guide on duty was keen to help and walked with us through the centre talking about the boats and the history of the area. He loved Steve’s enthusiasm for boats, so was a great companion.
We heard about herring fishing from its earliest days until the present.
An amazing collection of boats. Robert explains the flags to Steve.
I was fascinated by the section on the Herring industry. The women played a big part in keeping this going. In the 1800’s there were 3,000 people living in Unst and 28 registered boats. The fishermen were also crofters to supplement their poorly paid jobs. The landowners and boat owners made most of the money .
By the 1970’s the government banned herring fishing as the giant trawlers had depleted stocks so much. Now the main industry is drawn from its 1700 miles of coastline. The seafood industry and oil from the North Sea.
We took refuge from the drizzly rain in Victoria’s tea room in front of Boat Haven. It’s a gift farm shop and cake heaven. People were tucking into soup and sandwiches but as we’d had a big breakfast we enjoyed coffee and a slice of cake. Coffee walnut for Steve and lemon drizzle for me.
We had read about the Norse people arriving in this not too dissimilar country and building longhouses and longboats.
The Scottish humour shines through the drizzle.
We stopped at the Shetlands Gallery. there is quite an arts crafts trail here in the Shetlands and this gallery was airy, calm with beautiful light filled spaces. It is owned by artist Shona Skinner a woman who taught art in London for many years before she and her husband moved here to her homeland and set up a gallery and studio. Shona had her own workroom attached to the gallery which is open and shows her beautiful work with textiles as well as painting.
Don’t miss the red shed. Shetland gallery halfway up Yell island Shona Skinner’s workshop walk. Paintings , sketches and sewn
I loved Shona’s work. Such beautiful colour combinations that reflect the colours of the island.
A little concertina book of ideas.
We met a young woman from New Zealand at the gallery. She’s a young doctor doing 6 months work at the hospital. She was telling us how much she was enjoying living in Lerwick. That it is a vibrant friendly place. After 6 months spent just out of London she is enjoying this so much more. I think Ísland life gets under the skin.
We now drive through quite heavy rain to catch the larger ferry back to the main island. We queued up in the unbooked lane and very nearly missed out. So my advice is get online and book your ferry crossings. It can be very busy and you might miss out.
We drove down to Lerwick and in light rain drove around the town.
My first impression is of an interesting town set by the sea ( always a winner for me). Lots of boats to look at. Recently they had the Festival of tall ships. It would have been so colourful to be here then.
We found our little apartment in the attic section of a three story house. Yes a few stairs but so worth it. The apartment is terrific. Clean, well organised and just so comfortable.
We ventured out for food to find the wind and rain had cleared to a beautiful night.
Planning tomorrow’s activities kept us busy over dinner and then we watched a little tv !
frans travel tales 