Sunday in Edinburgh: touring the sights

A little sleep in today. Lots of late nights trying to see everything is exhilarating but tiring. Steve headed off to two sessions of the Writers Festival. I’ll be going tomorrow.

With plans to meet at Holyrood Palace I set off to the Royal Mile and after getting off a bus made my way down the hill. The Royal Mile connects Edinburgh Castle with the Palace. And along the way you pass every tourist shop. Tartan galore, kilt making shop ( which I thought was very quirky) fudge shops, cashmere, a Scottish Christmas shop, Celtic jewellery , just to name a few.

Call in to get your kilt made.
Inside the kilt shop.

I called into the a Museum of Childhood and tripped down memory lane. All the games and toys I remember using. Oh how old I feel. It was a fun interactive place for children. Further along was the museum of Edinburgh. This tell the story of the history of this fascinating town.

I made it to the bottom of the hill and into Holyrood we went. A very good audio guide with pictures on the hand set made touring the various rooms of this smaller palace just right. No photos allowed.

It brought history alive particularly with the reign of Elizabeth of England and Mary of Scotland, married to Lord Dunbar. I’m listening to a book called The Last Tudor by Philippa Weir. She’s a great author for retelling historical stories and this one is about Lady Jane Grey and her sisters Catherine and Mary.

Holyrood with Arthur’s seat behind.

Deciding to head back to our apartment I caught a bus to the Museum of Scotland for another quick look and Steve went home via the Museum of Edinburgh.

Main Gallery at the Museum of Scotland

We had a quick turn around and out to Usher Hall. This is our third visit to this place. The orchestral type music is here. It’s a very comfortable theatre. Plenty of room for legs to stretch tonight was the Festival’s Closing Concert.

It featured the BBC Scottish Symphony with a dynamic American conductor Karina Canelakis . She had such control and was so expressive in her conducting. The program included a Rachmaninov Symphonic poem sung by a Soprano, Tenor and Bass with the Edinburgh Chorus. A full sound!

The Festival’s Director Nicola Benedetti.

After the concert, yet another bus back to the city for a quick dinner then into a line up for the Jazz Club. While in line we spied the cutest BMW bubble car.

A bubble car with band for tonight sitting waiting to go on .

I recognised the band sitting in the bar next door. Even they have to wait. The shows in these little downstairs bars are pretty much back to back! And if you get there late you might be standing. This is for the fringe shows. The big shows get you a numbered seat!

Tonight a fabulous performance by Valery Ponomarev on trumpet with a bass, sax , drummer and piano. It was a great night of jazz including some very funny chat by Valery. He’s 80. From Russia he has lived in the US for years. He’s played around the world including at this festival for 23 years.

He has written a book ‘On the Flip side of sound’ which he showed us and made many jokes about.

The whole night was great – also because we met some people in the queue. They are friends – one from Edinburgh and a couple from near Chester England. We had a fun night together.

Home to bed around 1am!

The Leith Water Walk

Saturday. The sun is shining. Everyone is out. Locals as well as tourists are making the most of this beautiful day. The festival officially ends this weekend so it’s a good chance to see things.

We chose to do a quiet activity. No loud musicals or street theatre. We caught the bus 26 to Roseburn Just a few km from the city centre. It’s a world away.

We got off the bus and crossed an old stone bridge which lead down the slope to the Water of Leith , a small creek which winds around the city to the port of Leith.

We started walking along a softly padded path under trees alongside the water. Immediately I felt relaxed and a million miles from the busy festival city.

There were Saturday joggers, lots of dog walkers and a few tourists like us.

We followed a few ducks as they splashed along and admired the luck of the people who lived on the opposite side of the water.

I was imagining being invited to a garden party in summer drinking a gin and listening to the splashing water.

Gin on the lawn anyone ?

It wasn’t long before we came to a bridge crossing the waterway then climbed about 80 steps to the Museum of Modern Art.

We arrived at it garden entrance. Set up with tables we stopped for coffee.

People sitting in the warming sun were locals with dogs : what a great place to walk to and meet friends.

Graduated paint colour as you walk down the hall.

We took the lift up to the gallery floors. A special exhibition was on. It was colourful and meaningful.

The main doors took us to the sculpture gardens and the main gates.

Crossing the road we arrived at the Modern 2. This was a school going back years. In fact I read a book where the school had a mention as some of the plot took place there! So I was ready for the beautiful building with the turrets.

Following the path down through the gardens we turned left through some iron gates and continued on the Leith Walk.

Around the next corner- a little waterfall.

The water meandered along coming to the very picturesque Dean Village.

Dean Village

Taking a break in a children’s playground we found another piece of history.

If you come to Edinburgh you really must do this walk. You can do a long version or this section.

We arrived at Stockbridge which was jumping.

It’s a little village with pubs, restaurants & cafe and yet another charity shop. I’ve noticed these charity shops everywhere . A bit like our St Vincent’s de Paul. But lots of different types of charities. With some great looking clothes and items in their windows. If you like vintage these shops are for you.

Approaching Stockbridge.

We rested our feet at Hectors with a beer and a fish cake for me and a pie for Steve. Not just any old pie. A pie that won an award. every pie seems to have won an award.

Did I say we love our apartment. It’s so handy to everything including buses to all parts of the city. So home we went for an hours rest before dinner with Bill & M-F at the Brassiere near us.

But first another bus ride and a laid back guitar player. Very cool.

Delicious prawns and a gin and we were off to Usher Hall again to hear Simon Bolivar.

This is a world renowned orchestra from Venezuela. And it’s a young orchestra. Aged up to 28.

They started with a piece composed by a Venezuelan Paul Desenne, a man who helped establish the orchestra.

The next was a composition by another Venezuelan Gonzalo Gray-who was in the orchestra and it featured the cuatro. This is like a small guitar.

Jorge Glem came on stage and had wonderful presence.

The conductor obviously knew him well and boy could he play. It was such a lively piece. The Venezuelan people in the audience were on their feet cheering. It was infectious.

The audience demanded an encore and he played the most amazing arrangement-based on a Viennese waltz which turned into a Venezuelan bear. Maracas were out. Feet are stamping. Fabulous.

After interval they played a more Mahler Symphony 1in D Major. Beautiful energy in the playing. And then the audience demanded more.

So they delivered. The musicians brought our their symbolic medals on a Venezuelan coloured ribbon hung them around their necks. And the rhythmic beats started. The drums, cymbals the hand clamping. The shouting, the standing , sitting. An in stage party!

The orchestra wearing their medals and ribbons

You couldn’t help smiling when it was all over. We met our friends again outside and said a fond farewell. For 2 weeks. We’ll be seeing them in NY for our Galapagos swim trek reunion.

Bills car with Steve & M-F squeezed in the back

Home to bed with feet still tapping !