Travel is so easy these days with phones holding tickets, maps, advice, hotel bookings. Everything you need is saved online.
We had a eSIM in England but here we’ve managed with Wifi with the odd day on Telstra.
The bus into Palermo was about 2, hours from the ferry at Trapani. It was a very hot day so the good air con was welcome.
The bus stopped at Via Vittorio Emanuel and 5 minutes walk we were in our hotel.
I was very pleased with this one. A lift! is a win , a big cool room and bathroom. 4th floor and the loveliest young woman on reception.
Steps outside the hotel is …… everything. We are just a few steps to the corner Quattro Canti at the end of via Maqueda which is the restaurant, cafe bar street and leads everywhere.
One of the corners at Quattro Canti
Leaving out bags we headed out for a slow walk. It was hot but walking on the shade side was good. A nice breeze came up from the port and we wandered past Palazzos which in their day must have been amazing.
Now they are home to multiple apartments and BnB’s though it easy to see how grand they would be.
An indoor bar Street stalls always colourful
Three hours walking led us to an afternoon in the cool before heading to our roof to for an evening Aperol before our passaggiatti
View from our terrace
The roof top bar is like an oasis above the noise of the street below. In need of a secondi – a plate of something other than antipasto we headed out into the street walking past the buskers, the street food vendors , the aperol mobile carts, the few rough sleepers, teenage groups of Ragazzi , people sucking on vapes, groups drinking vino outside restaurants waiting to get in
Cannoli bars One of my favourite shops. Limoncello Street markets abound
Palermo is a surprisingly lovely city. It has its edge. It’s busy, but quite clean. Magnificent buildings
We’ll find out more about its ‘ underbelly ‘ tomorrow on the No Mafia tour
Guila smearing me with Vasalino for the last time…..to prevent swimmers rash!
Oh I’m so behind in my blogs. I’ve been in Palermo for 2 days and I’m still back in Favingnana ! Well the blog is.
The last day swimming was once again without our dear Francesco.
He would hate being sick and missing out.
The last swims were different and perfect.
The swimmers have relaxed and all chatting more.
In the evening we’re having a farewell dinner at Eduardo’s brother’s restaurant. It’s all about family here in Italy.
Eduardo has been lots of fun. He has told us all about his girlfriends but now declares his true love is Guila. It’s become a funny ongoing joke.
Francesco has asked us all to send him a few words about swimming and the sea. Something that shows our feelings for it. he has a game for us.
Everyone dressed up a but – island style for the last dinner together. We shared taxis and drove along the island to Giuseppe’s restaurant. It’s a big area. All outdoor tables facing the bay and the setting sun. A beautiful simple setting.
The fun begins with Aperols and continues with more Aperol or a Grillo ( a lovely light white wine)
The food is shared grazing plates and is simple but beautiful.
Photos are taken memories made.
With Francesco
We’ve known Francesco for 11 years so are so pleased he’s made the dinner so we can say farewell. This could be our last swim trek.
After dinner Francesco and Guila say a few words of farewell and start to give out the certificates. But on the back there is a quote written by one of the group. We have to guess who wrote it.
Reading the quotes!
I read one out. It was a Haiku and I guessed Colleen. Later in the evening it was Colleen’s turn ( Dora the explorer) she read out the words. It was a Haiku! Mine. She guessed straight away. So funny we hit each others. Steve and her husband also got each others. They were both the shortest quotes.
Mine said
Swimming in the sea Blue water beautiful fish Gives me calm and peace
Today we met at the ferry terminal. We were catching the ferry to Marettimo.
The islands we visited off the coast of Sicily.
Marettimo has the reputation for beautiful waters, national parks. No cars, white buildings with blue shutters and very friendly people.
It takes about half and hour on the ferry and the first sight gives the impression of landing in Greece. It is actually quite close to Tunisia and our watches will switch to their time.
Today Francesco our guide is sick. Guila reported that he was up most of the night with vomiting and diarrhea. A virus.
Poor Guila is sharing a small apartment with him so let’s hope she doesn’t get it. Or us!
We arrived at the north port and walked through the small village to the south port. Where the boats are moved to when the winds blow.
Today is perfect for swimming.
The town is very traditional. White houses, blue shutters, ( except one house has brown?) terracotta downpipes, and tiles on the wall outside each house announcing who lives there.
We stopped at this house.
Off we headed with Peppo and Nico
They found the perfect spot for our morning swim. We swam into caves, over beautiful fish , red starfish. It was beautiful. No hurrying.
We had Colleen and Dana our American friends with us. Colleen is like Dora the explorer. She stops and looks at everything. And she’s a geologist and expert I’d say in water quality. It was so much fun swimming with her. the 3.5 km went by in a flash.
Lunch by the boys mother was good. But not as great as Eduardo’s mum!
Guila , our guide cooed so well as the only guide. With Francesco sick she was on her own to supervise us. Lucky conditions were perfect.
The second swim of about 2km and again just perfect.
My swim group. Colleen ‘Dora the explorer’
For me the swimming is near perfect. No stingers, warm enough, no currents, no leaking goggles.
Back to the small township we wandered the small streets with little shops selling the usual souvenirs. It’s so colourful. It’s hard to resist.
Marion and her two daughters were great company.
A Sicilian favourite: brioche filled with gelato. No I didn’t try one!
Francesco said he thought we were ready to cross from Levanzo to Favignana.
The distance was supposed to be about 4km. With our winding route it’s hard to sight for the ending and swim a straight path we ran into a current and swam about 6.4 km.
Guila towed us out of the current near the end of/ about 300 metres let us off again and we zig zagged our way towards the end.
The pink and orange swimmers also found it hard to get through the current and were exhausted as well.
These two videos show the beginning of the swim and the last section in the current after the tow. Note the zig zag!
The first part of the island crossing – around 6km
This first video shoes the straight line we swam. The little bumps are when we stopped for a drink next to the boat.
This is the final 609 metres.
It was altogether exhausting.
No swim in the afternoon. We had lunch, a rest then headed back to Favignana by 3 for a rest before a group dinner.
A great sense of achievement. I didn’t think I could swim that far with little preparation.
Francesco and Guila congratulated us at the dinner. Team yellow Team orange next to the coast guard.
We have yo have the coast guard close to us to warn of passing ferries!
Another slow start. Breakfast at 8 , walk to the harbour and away.
In the crystal waters by 10.30 we had to swim the coast – in and out of the little bays , past people sitting on little beaches or playing in the water. They must wonder what in earth we are doing.
Away with Eduardo sitting up top
We had a great swim along the coast. Sticking together our group of four Beth, from Sydney, Kaz from San Francisco, Steve and I form a good team. Poor Kaz swam with no fins and struggled to keep up, so tomorrow she’ll definitely wear her fins!
Great little movie if our swim.
We ended up swimming 4 km. I felt pretty good though do get leg cramps. In cool water. It’s about 21 in.
We had another salad lunch. This one a big rice salad, meat, cheese and bread.
Mother Ruth and two daughters.
We swam around an island in the afternoon. About 1.5km. Short! Because this morning was so long.
The group are bonding.
We stopped for a beer and delicious icey granite on the way back.
Poor Jen tripped before the swims began and had to miss a day. Big cut on her head.
A little washing a little rest and dinner.
Once again we had dinner by ourselves. So strange for a swim trek not to be eating together. Never mind. I was so tired we had a delicious tuna salad and we ready for bed by 9.
Francesco said ‘ breakfast at 8 and be ready by 8.45’ we were to be escorted to the boat on day 1. After that. We’re trusted to walk.
Down to the marina we met Eduardo our boat captain. He’s a typical young Italian man. Very tanned, bald head, chain necklace, vape folded into his fist and a cheeky attitude.
Francesco outlined the day and away we went.
About 30 minutes later the boat stopped in a sheltered bay. We did our orientation swim where they look at our speed and later give us our groups.
I could have saved them time looking at me. I knew I’d be in the slow group and I’m happy to be.
I’m surprised so many wear fins. I’ve always loved mine. I think the group is mostly over 60. There are two sister here with their mum. They’ll be fast.
We swam around 1.5 km maybe more and then stopped for lunch on the boat.
Lunch made by Eduardo’s mum was a huge pasta salad and done cold meats and cheese. Just perfect for swimmers.
The afternoon swim was much longer in our groups. I’m with Beth, Kaz and Steve
We made a tight little group and I was happy with how I swam. It worked out at around 3.5.
Back to the boat harbour it was buzzing and we headed for the nearest bar. We needed a beer after all the salt.
Steve and I headed out for dinner around 7.30 – the others went off in their groups. It would be nice to start being more included.
We caught the fast ferry to this little island off the coast from Trapani- below Palermo.
Lots of holiday makers were queued up ready to rush the best seats. Some things are the same the world over.
We stood in line and an Italian lady said ‘Sei Bellissimo’ to me! ( you look beautiful) I was flattered. She indicated my navy dress, cream hat and shoes. How nice!
Half and hour later we were in island holiday mode.
We walked up our hotel about 10 mins from the port. Fortunately our room was ready. It’s a newish hotel built on an old quarry. It’s 5 mins from the action.
By that I mean the restaurants, gelato, bars, bicycle rental shops ( every one rents bikes) clothes, beach paraphernalia, jewellery made from shells , umbrellas and countless suntanned Italians calling out to each and chatting.
We dumped the bags and had a quick lunch. Vegetable frittata for me and tuna croquettes for Steve.
The seafood here is renowned. Super fresh tuna, swordfish. Octopus particularly fill the menus.
5pm was the appointed time to meet our fellow swimmers and catch up with Francesco. He was my first guide back in 2013 in Sardinia. He’s the reason I got some confidence to keep swimming.
Francesco is the head guide with Guila supporting him. She’s a former top Italian swimmer who is now working several months a year for swim trek in summer when not studying astronomy at university in Spain.
Getting the safety talk from Francesco. Guila. Eduardo the boat owner and Francesco.
After the briefing and introductions we headed out for dinner.
The 15 swimmers are made up of 4 friends from California, and 9 friends from Sydney. Steve and I are the only ones not to know anyone ( Except Francesco) I hope they include us!
A fun dinner where we celebrated Celia’s 35 th birthday. She is from NY but travelling with her mother and sister and are part of the Sydney team.
A surprise cake organised by Francesco
I had a beautiful grilled swordfish on a aubergine puree. Delicious.
We fell into bed dreaming about the first swim tomorrow.
Flying into Turin or Torino, its Italian name was easy. A bus from there airport to our hotel right near the train station.
Our hotel the Star majestic was one of the best in terms of facilities.
Hunger got to us. An hour late arriving it was nearly 9pm very late for eating. But we found a good salad nicoise and muscles for Steve.
A walk in the morning for Steve taking photos of the grand buildings and then onto the train. A long journey to Lerici. I’ve stayed with niece Berti several times before and love the town of Lerici. They live back from the coast in the hills with beautiful views. We’re staying in their little Airbnb with lots of little steps up to the top bedroom which has wonderful views.
A little corner in Cerri my niece’s village
We had a lovely catch up over dinner and planned the next few days The next morning the wind came up but Fabio decided we’d still go out on his new boat. He was keen to show us.
Down to the not so little Marina with around 1000 boats of various sizes tied up.
With Berti on board.
We got onto the boat. It’s new and comfortable and headed out across the Golfe de Poeti.
Heading out of the marina
Passing PortdeVenere, I love looking at the church right on the point. I visited it with Pip my Sydney niece when we visited 24 years ago.
Porto Venere
We headed down the coast towards the five little Cinqueterre villages pulling in to a protected cove with a little waterfall and an old building which turned out to be the train line. While we were there several trains passed very close to the edge of the cliff.
Our first swim from Fabio’s boat.
We had lunch and a lovely refreshing swim before heading back as the wind came up.
Fabio has a new pizza oven and that night we sat under the pergola and made our own pizzas.
A great set up near the pizza oven
Fabio had made the pizza dough. It was a lovely relaxing chatty evening. We planned the next days activities.
Fabio making his pizza with zucchini flowers
Steve and I decided to go down to Lerici as Berti had to work. She’s a teacher but does holiday activities with the children as part of her contract.
We caught the local bus down and it takes you on a little tour of some of the other little villages nearby.
We arrived at Lerici and took a nice walk along the waterfront. Watching about 8 little boys getting ready for their sailing lesson as part of vacation care!
Steve went up to the castle which brings back a lot of memories for me as my friend Pat and I had a week in a little Airbnb up behind the castle. It was quite a few years ago but I remember like it was yesterday.
Steve went up the art show in the castle. A modern version of the last supper. Looking back to Lerici from the castle
We checked out a few little shops nearby and found one cranky Ligurian man who pushed us out of his shop because we didn’t want to buy anything. It was almost siesta closing time. He must have been ‘hangry’.
With Cleo
Cleo caught the bus down and met for lunch. She’s 15 now and a lovely young woman. Very interesting, studies hard, likes school and is such a great mix of her Australian mother and Italian father.
Berti picked us up and we went home and had a relaxing afternoon. Their little village is extremely small so there’s really no where to walk to within the village except up-and-down the little winding steep laneways.
Fabio decided to cook and sitting on the terrace in their lovely garden eating asparagus risotto with chilled wine made it very special.
Berti had suggested an activity for tonight. Going to her choir. At 9.15! So late. That is almost bedtime but not in Italy.
Small group of singers.
It’s a group of village ladies – 5 and 1 man. But 2 could come tonight so I made up the numbers.
They were lovely. So welcoming. First off was a chat – about their children. Then Bertie who is the unofficial choir organiser started up the music. They have several Italian songs and 2 English ones. They claim it helps their English.
After being at my choir concerts in England it was lovely singing with these ladies in their tiny Italian choir. I hope word spreads and it grows.
Back up the marble steps for a good nights sleep. Bertie informed us the water is going off at 8.30 for work being done in the laneway.
And tomorrow we leave this lovely little piece of Italy. I love my time here with niece Roberta – her official name. it was lucky Fabio was home. He’s usually away on his ship. He’s a ship engineer with a cruise line and spends months away.
Back in Rusper our friends have hosted an open garden for the village church.
And today our last day we are dressing in our garden party clothes and drinking G& T in the garden.
Our hostess Marie France
The weather is beautiful….. English style. Started out grey and cleared to blue skies by the middle of the day.
The guests arrived. Some walked from the village. Some drove from as far as London just over an hour away.
We had an hour and a half before we scrambled up the airport.
Gatwick is like all big airports. Lots of people and long walks up the gate. Ours was a good ten minutes of constant walking.
Then the theatre began. An announcement telling us boarding was delayed. That we had a full flight and there wouldn’t be room in overhead lockers for all the carry on bags. They offered free under plane storage and early boarding if people volunteered to check in their bags.
3 people came forward. Then a rather forceful lady started walking around the gathering line of people pulling out some and asking them to put their bags in the size measuring contraption.
It was actually quite funny watching grown men and women trying to cram oversized bags into the frame. If they didn’t fit they went to one side. Check in!
A women sitting near us tried to hide her rather heavy looking bag, a big back pack and handbag. She did it and later boarded!
We then sat on the tarmac waiting for take off. An hour later we did.
Arriving into Turin it was still light so we dropped our bags and headed out for a late dinner. Another salad Nicoise for me.
Next morning a long train ride up Lerici. We’re staying with our niece for 3 nights.
frans travel tales 