Day Trip from Tokyo to Kamakura and Enoshima

October 31, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 1 Comment

Starting early….. it’s an hour and 20 mins to the south to Kamakura and Enoshima which is a little island connected by a bridge.

We decided on a taxi to Tokyo central as there was a major hold up on the line connecting us to Tokyo. traffic was fine. In fact despite the millions who live here the streets are not crazy.

Arriving into Kamakura was like arriving at a beach holiday destination. There were cries of excitement especially from the hoards of school children. All decked out in yellow caps ( how do they tell them apart) they were clogging the already crowded streets.

I may have mentioned the school children. At the end of Oct it’s school excursion time. They go somewhere for a week and seem to be wandering in groups. They must have a meeting time and place because there aren’t many teachers visible with them.

We walked up the famous shopping street with all its food and novelties and saw the Shrine then caught the little Enoden electric tram along the coast.

We got off to see the biggest Buddha.

Spotted on the tram was a school kid in disguise!

Full black face mask , glasses, yellow with hood pulled up.

The little tram stopped along the coast where there little beaches where people probably swim in summer but no one was in now.

We got off at Enoshima. From the station you walk down a long street straight to the bridge across to the island. About a 30 mins walk if you take your time.

The island is small and very hilly. Around the islands which should have cafes and restaurants there are car parks. Very strange. The Main Street of the Bridge leads straight up to the shrine and giant candle on top of the hill.

I opted not to walk the 208 steps up and went exploring the back streets which is a favourite thing of mine. Getting off the tourist walk.

I found this little walkway down to a beach.

Steve walked to the caves which involved lots of stairs

We had stopped for prawns for lunch. Always delicious. Their tempura is great.

Back to the station and the tram to the nearest JR train station back to Tokyo. We got seats which is always a blessing. No one seems to give up seats for older people here.

A little rest was needed. Our days have a lot of walking. Today 16,000 for me and over 20,000 for Steve.

Then out for dinner. It’s Steve’s 75th birthday today. So we opted for a reservation! No wandering around choosing. We were going Frencb but it was booked out so went to Braceli run by an Italian Japanese man. He lived in Rome and Venice for years so we communicated in Italian.

The food was good.

A few glasses of wine to toast the birthday boy and home to bed. I love how our hotel is so handy to many things. an east 15 min walk in a back street of Asakusa.

Tomorrow I’m doing a ring making experience.

Tokyo : Asakusa

October 30, 2025October 30, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 1 Comment

When in a big city I always think it’s a good idea to stay in different areas if possible.

This time we had 3 nights at the beginning of our holiday with our friends and more we’re have 4 nights on our own.

I was told Asakusa was a great area as it contrasts with Ginza where we stayed at the beginning.

Ginza has good trains to all the sights we wanted to see at the beginning Skylab, the markets, the big crossing, also up market shops! And some nice restaurants.

Now in Asakusa there are markets, beautiful walls up back streets, close to Ueno Park, the national museum and a huge selection of restaurants. We’ll never cover it all.

We chatted to two street cleaners employed by the council. So colourful.

We started out exploring by walking to Ueno across the river dropping at a great coffee place / you only find the great coffee in off Main Street places!

Coffee with the house sweet red bean cake.

They were setting up for a festival so with my handy Google translator I worked out that it’s in Saturday – and that’s when we leave.

We crossed to the impressive national gallery. A beautiful building and so well set out.

We looked at things that interested us / the clothes, painted screens, and bronze works

We stopped in the ‘create’ area and made a print. Such a great activity You got a little card, and put it in and out of little boxes where you used a big stamp to print. The picture was revealed by the 5th stamp.

We went to a near by gallery cafe. Always quiet and well presented. Though I missed the ‘book in’ section when you as you name to a list. I thought you just say in order along the wall. the salad was delicious!

We headed to the Children’s Literature centre. It was very much a reference for literature. Not too much in the way of hands on.

I looked for Australian books and spied Hairy Maclary.

Back to the hotel to drop things off then onto the Japan Blue Jeans company. Run by a very trendy Japanese man, he helped Steve achieve a new level of trendiness. He bought two pairs of jeans and they did the hem in a few extra minutes.

The Jean shop has loads of vintage dolls all dressed in jeans.

I then headed into Don Quijote that house of plastic and everything else. It’s what our $2 shops are like but on steroids. Floors of stuff with people carrying huge baskets filled to the brim. You have to know what you want or you could get lost in there forever.

Then a quick trip to Uniqlo. Steve managed a small haul. Not me. I can get it in Brisbane at the same price. Though I was tempted by the cashmere cardigan. But they make them short now so too short for me and the moths might eat it while I wait for next winter.

Back to the hotel again. Very centrally placed ! Before heading out for dinner.

Turns out Wednesday is the night lots of restaurants close. Still a great choice and we found a bbq grill place and it was great. We had bbq octopus & pork and an okonomiyaki with prawns. Delicious.

Back at the hotel we went to their 10th floor lounge for guests. It’s got all kinds of snack food and sweets, coffee, juice but no alcohol ! So we took some whiskey and wine in water bottles. We are bad people!

The view is straight to the Tokyo tower.

Another good day.

Tomorrow off for a big day in Kamakura and Enoshima Island.

Shinkansen back to Tokyo

October 28, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 2 Comments

We had another rainy morning so headed to the station and had coffee there before getting the Shinkansen train to Tokyo.

If you’re in Japan you must experience their trains. Especially the Shinkansen. It’s the Bullet train and clocks speeds of around 264 km per hour. Amazing.

The stations have a great assortment of bento boxes, sandwiches / from Family Mart, drinks machines everywhere making taking a snack very easy. On these longer trips 2.5 hrs to cross the country most people bring their food. But by the end of the journey there isn’t one bit of rubbish left behind. Amazing!!!

We got off a stop earlier than Tokyo main station because we realised that Ueno Park was closer to our hotel. We changed to a JR train and in two stops were close to our hotel – the Asakusa View Hotel Annex Rokku. It’s fairly new and off the Main Street and close to all the little laneways of restaurants and shops. It’s a complete contrast to upmarket Ginza where we stayed when we first arrived.

As we were arriving Chris & Jill were leaving! They are heading home today.

I like the change of areas. I had a big walk around to get to know the place while Steve did the washing. These hotels all have cooperated laundry rooms. For 400 yen ( $4) you can do a load of washing. Drying is 100 yen.

We headed off for a drink and dinner and wandered the covered market streets.

We were looking for bar but most here are all restaurants as well Until we found Zen which looked like a wine bar but did turn into a restaurant. It was a great little place

We stayed and had a great meal. Steve had the ginger pork and I had octopus rice hot pot.

We walked back to the hotel via Lawsons – like 7 eleven. Only so much better than our Australian ones. We got a few supplies and now I’m preparing for a bubble bath and Steve’s having whiskey bought from Lawsons and watching the baseball finals.

Wandering Kanazawa

October 27, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 4 Comments

Our first day with no travel buddies! It’s been great sharing our travels with the Wilsons and McGregors. They are fun travel buddies.

Today we started fairly slowly. But as the sun was out we thought we should take advantage of it and get moving. We walked and found the loop bus. It runs around the city in a loop both ways, stopping at all the attractions.

We caught it to the Museum of Contemporary Art.

Set in a park it is a modern circular building with many art installations around it. Including the coloured structure above. With panels of different colours it changes your perspective of the world.

Inside there are various galleries some ticketed some not. It’s a great space and some fun art.

We’ve noticed there is no graffiti anywhere we’ve seen in Japan. No bins around either. But no rubbish. You are expected to take your rubbish away with you. Great idea.

There was a pool in a courtyard and when you looked in you could see people walking inside it. Great altered mind state.

We left the gallery and continued to walk. We came to the canal and met up with a lovely man who was there to feed the fish. He told us about the city and the fact that the city had many kilometres of canals circling it.

Our walk took us the old Samurai area. There we walked in the steps of the old samurai …..down cobbled streets past old wooden houses some of which are now occupied by art and craft shops.

I pottered in and out buying a few gifts as I went.

We stopped for lunch and opted for a delicious vegetable soup. Similar to a minestrone. Delicious. Especially with a beer Steve told me.

The rain had returned but not heavy so we stopped off at a department store back in the Main Street. It was beautiful but so empty of customers! it had a great food hall and u wanted to buy lots but opted for bananas for breakfast!

We waited for a bus and being a wanderer I said…let’s get this one and see where we go. It snaked its way in and around the city streets, crossed the river twice and before we knew it we were back at the castle gardens near our hotel. Perfect!

We dropped our parcels in and had a little rest before heading back out for dinner.

This time we walked the opposite direction into the old geisha area. It was charming. Still a little wet

We found a great Yakitori restaurant where we opted to sit at the bar and watch the theatre of the kitchen.

Drsssed with samurai type headbands the chefs were busy all night including giving a touching cheer as people came and left!

We had the set course which included an appetiser box ,

tempura, a hot pot,

chicken skewers , noodles and teeny tiny matcha panda cotta . All fairly small but delicious and we were full.

Luckily we had a walk back to the hotel.

It wasn’t late so I decided to visit the onsen. These public baths are everywhere in Japan. Most hotels have one. Japanese people are so relaxed because of these baths – in my opinion. And they have the smoothest skin!

I arrived at this one where a gaggle of older Japanese ladies were re dressing after their shared onsen. It quietened down so off came the gown and I had the obligatory shower before entering the bath. I there were only 2 ladies there with me. You take a small towel with you which you put on your head when in the bath. I wrapped my hair up.

When you get out you take another shower sitting on little low stools then soap yourself with the lovely products. Sitting in the stools all soapy is dangerous ! Getting up is a challenge.

Then into the change room to dry off before sitting at the mirrors in a towel to apply all the body creams and oil and blow dry your hair. Quite the experience.

Needless to say I was ready for a good sleep. And I found how to open the window for some fresh air.

Rainy Train Journey.

October 27, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 1 Comment

We had plenty of time to get organised this morning. We were all leaving on the 11.03 out of Takayama.

The station was awash with early bird travellers. There was a big line of people and lots of suitcases. Most people were heading to Tokyo , so probably at the end of their holiday – like our friends the McGregors. Steve and I sent our luggage on but our friends brought theirs.

So there was a lot of scrambling once we were allowed into platform 1 !

The poor conductor was waving his arms trying to hurry everyone. The train risked being a minute late to leave the station!!!

Once on board everyone seemed to settle and we enjoyed being indoors on this rainy day.

The countryside was very green. Lots of trees and water flowing and power stations.

Before we knew it we were farewelling our dear friends Peter & Elizabeth. They very nearly had to cancel as they both had been to NZ and caught some nasty virus. But they came and rallied and we loved having them with us. We’ve had many trips together.

We all changed trains at Toyama. We had less than 6 mins. We had to move fast and Chris and Jill had their bags.

We made it – just!

Then the 35 min trip to Kanazawa. This city is known for its castle and gardens.

After finding our hotel the rather old world place we went walking.

First to the Omicho markets. Much more a food market than the Nishiki market in Kyoto.

We bought some fresh prawns and sushi and stood at bench tables eating along with a beer for the boys.

We left and headed for the Castle it was starting to sprinkle but not enough to deter us. We headed up the hill with Chris dancing g Ali g. Very light in his feet singing ‘ I’m singing in the rain’

We left the castle grounds. Crossed the road and arrived at the Kenrokuen Gardens.

These are very famous…. Kenrokuen” means “garden that combines six characteristics.” These six characteristics are spaciousness, seclusion, artifice, antiquity, water sources and magnifient views. Not every garden in Japan can combine all of these features but Kenrokuen does.

It’s beautiful.

The trees are starting to show their autumn colours.

Unfortunately for us it wasn’t sunlit but it had a moodiness that comes with rain and cloud cover. We still enjoyed the peace as many people would have avoided the gardens in the rain.

The rain got heavier so we decided to head off. We walked down a hill to our hotel , passing along a garden path behind the hotel.

Many sculptures lined the path back to our hotel.

We dripped into the hotel foyer and headed to our rooms to dry off.

Jill and I hatched a perfect plan. We didn’t want go out again in the dark and rain so sent the boys for supplies. They cane back with beer, wine, sashimi and sushi. Perfect room picnic.

Takayama

October 25, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 5 Comments

When we were deciding where to stay it was a toss up between Takayama and Hida. I’m so pleased we had one night in Hida. It’s a small town but so beautiful and so well preserved. But a real town.

Takayama is bigger and more crowded. I like it but it doesn’t have the charm of Hida, or the atmosphere of Miyajima or even the variety of sightseeing Kyoto has to offer.

We got here yesterday and walked a little till it was getting dark and quite cold. The weather so far has been great. Really warm up until Hida when being high in the mountains produces cooler weather. It was welcome. I was getting a bit over wearing the same few dresses! I pack light and it was getting a bit boring.

Today we set off at 8.30 for the morning markets. They are located on the river. White tents mostly with food items. Similar scenes are found all over the world. Only in Japan it felt very calm.

The only decent coffee was found by smelling coffee beans and spying a line of people!

No wonder there was a line. There were two people in the tent. The man was taking orders – slowly one at a time and then assembling little coffee cups made out of an edible cone with room for an espresso and the young woman was doing everything else!

She was making the coffee then carrying it to the serving table and decorating each coffee individually!

The coffee was nice and we had a seat in the warm sun and a croissant ! And a banana so a balanced breakfast! Not very Japanese. No fish or pickles.

And packets of dried fruits all wrapped beautifully.

We walking further into the old town to where their festival floats are stored and explored the streets which have no power lines!

Late morning we headed back to the bus station. We were going to Shirakawa. We had bought an unreserved seat and the lady reassured us that we’d get a seat on a bus at that time. She told us they just kept adding buses. She was right. We got on bus 4 of the ones leaving at 11.50.

Declared a UNESCO world heritage site in 1995, Shirakawa is famous for their traditional gassho-zukuri farmhouses, some of which are more than 250 years old.

We walked through the small town and tried to imagine it in winter! The snow would keep people in their houses and make life difficult. One house we were able to visit was Kanda. It was spread over 5 levels and would have held not just one family but relatives as well. It’s so well preserved.

The views over the village showed how it was laid out. People still live there but it must be hard with tourists crawling all over it.

We bought some lunch and like the lady at the coffee stall this morning one man was running a little shop selling Hida beef croquettes and chicken bites. For each order he left the window where he took the order and went and cooked the items. It’s slow and very unhurried and you develop patience.

It started to sprinkle so we headed back to the bus station and caught a bus back to Takayama.

Stopping off at the hotel bar we were going to have coffee or tea but Elizabeth led us astray and we had an espresso martini.

After a change and a bit of packing we headed out for our last dinner together. We all leave on a train tomorrow but the Wilson’s and ourselves get off in Kanazawa and the McGregors go on to Tokyo. They have one night there then fly home.

For today’s dinner we celebrated our great holiday together and an early birthday celebration for Steve’s birthday next Thursday.

Thank you to our friends for making this a great holiday.

Friday in Hida

October 25, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 1 Comment

A sleep of the angels, a bath in the onsen and breakfast dressed in our yakata delivered by Keito.

Again it was a Japanese meal with emphasis on fresh produce.

We had fish, vegetables, miso soup with mushrooms tofu and a delicious rice and caramelised spring onion.

We packed up and spent most of the day wandering the streets visiting some of the local businesses.

Lovely displays outside the wooden shops

Crackers made in house. All different flavours

A wood craft museum showing how wood is used. Steve was challenged in his wood techniques

A sake distillery, a candle shop, a weavers house filled with things made by the sweet lady of the house.

Next was our morning coffee stop. Macca was looking turnabout so had a yummy smelling butter chicken curry. We all had the home made waffle and great coffee.

On to the festival floats exhibition. Every April after the winter snow has melted there is a festival.

The family groups ’clans’ all have a float tell their story. Some of the floats are a couple of hundred years . Everyone dresses in yakatas and kimonos and beat drums – they parade through the town. It goes for 3 days and looks magnificent.

The exhibition hall is set out do beautifully. A few tried their hand at the pole balance !

And the marionettes

At 2.30 we collected our bags and headed to Takayama.

Here we’re staying at the modern Mecure. Very comfortable but no pj’s , no onsen in our room , no breakfast ( or Kaiseki dinner).

We had a walk to the old town , a drink in the bar and had dinner at a bbq Hida beef place nearby. Second last night with this fabulous group.

Hida a great hideaway.

October 24, 2025October 24, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 1 Comment

We met up with the McGregors who had finished their cycling days and met us on the train.

We had a big travel day getting to Hida but it is a great place after the busy days of cities. Though Miyajima and Naoshima were quite laid back and not rushed. It’s good to have a balance. We were very busy in Tokyo and Kyoto. Now we have slowed the pace and are enjoying the change.

Hida is very special.

We arrived in beautiful sunshine and walked for about 10 minutes to our Ryokan. Busuitei.

Looking across the red bridge to our Ryokan.

We were given the warmest welcome by Rumi and Keito in the sitting area of the hotel.

They made us herb tea and coffee with special homemade sweets

We were shown our rooms. Steve and I had a downstairs room and it was huge. It had 3 main rooms , a bathroom with its own onsen, a toilet room which turned on a light and raised the seat for you on arrival and a bedroom with the best doona’s of the trip.

We changed into our kimonos – yakata for dinner in a gorgeous dining room and served a Kaiseki meal by Keito. Kaiseki is a style of meal that has many little dishes that reflect the local produce and are presented in an artistic way.

It is a highly refined and artistic form of Japanese haute cuisine, with the menu carefully planned to balance flavors, textures, and colors, often served at a traditional ryokan. It was sensational.

Sone of the dishes featured fish, pickles, meat which we did shabu shabu style, miso…..

We finished a multi course meal and when we went to our room we took an onsen. The water was super hot but once in, it was so relaxing. It made us sleepy and we had the best nights sleep!

Tomorrow is a slow walk around this very old very pretty town.

https://busuitei.co.jp

Naoshima. : a full day of art.

October 22, 2025October 22, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 2 Comments

Staying near the ferry port was a bonus. We had pre booked tickets for 4 museums on the island.

Transport is limited on the island so at the end of this post I’ll give some hints.

We arrived in time to play sardines on the green bus. I can’t believe how people crammed on. But instead of walking it got the worst of the hills out of the way.

We arrived at the LeeYuan art gallery first. It’s austere, minimalist and for me- not really a lover of really modern art just a little hard to understand.

We walked another 20 minutes to the Benesse House Museum. a super modern building but so creative and interesting. The installations and hanging art were great.

Had coffee at Benesse house cafe. Then a little purchase at the beautiful gift shop.

There were some very creative people cruising the gallery

Loved this ….. each phrase flashed up randomly then all come together.

We walked along the coast road and found the iconic pumpkin. Yayoi Kusama is famous for her polka dot art.

There were many colourful sculptures along the way.

We decided to save some time and took the loop bus to the next little port town Honmura. There we started to visit houses – part of the Art House Project.

This began in 1998 with “Kadoya”, and currently comprises seven houses. Artists take empty houses scattered about residential areas and turn the spaces into works of art, weaving in history and memories of the period when the buildings were lived in and used.

Going from one of the houses to another, visitors pass through the Honmura district, where everyday life unfolds around them, not only engaging with works of art but also sensing the history interwoven in the community and the fabric of local people’s lives.

Viewing the house means interacting with the locals and presents a sense of community.

We decided on lunch and a local told us to try Apron. Set in a regular local house with mum in the kitchen and son as waiter there were only 10 sears.

We wandered the little streets peering through doors and looking at what surprises lay there.

We spotted a notice board with smiley people and their written answers to a few questions.

If whatever you try will succeed what do you really want to pursue.

We went inside and met the artist photographer Kohei Iwata and found ourselves taking part. He was exploring the themes of success, life , motivation and inspiration. We filled out the answer to the question…. Mine was. ‘What big change did you have in your life and how did it inspire you.’ Next thing we were having our photo taken ….

What a wonderful project. So thrilled to be involved.

We moved onto other art houses before climbing at least 80 steps into the New Museum of Naoshima. Again lots of modern concrete spaces spread over several levels. Some fun. Some challenging but very colourful.

We walked back down the stairs and saw our green bus sail past! That meant a 30 min standing wait. Then ferry leaving at 5.30. So we had a full day on Naoshima.

Dinner was at our hotel which made it easy. We wore our kimonos as we threw everything in for one last wash!

I had a rice soup with salmon. Delicious. And a Gin as the lovely waitress said the white wine wasn’t very nice!

Naoshima hints.

If wanting to stay a few days …..there isn’t much accommodation so book early. Or stay at the beautiful Benesse hotel and have a big credit card!

Pre book tickets for the galleries you want to see. this site is great.

https://benesse-artsite.jp/en/

Otherwise stay in UNO Port or at Takamatsu which has ferries to all the art islands.

Look carefully at ferry timetables

On the island can use the bus, bike or walk. There are two buses going clockwise and anticlockwise. Decide which order to see the museum galleries.

You can hire bikes but roads are narrow. Be careful!

Take cash for the buses and ferries. Around 300 yen PP each.

Some of the galleries have cafes but ask a local where to have lunch. You’ll get something good.

Summer would be too hot to be there. There’s a bit of walking and it would be way too hot.

Hiroshima: May it never happen again.

October 21, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / Leave a comment

We left the hotel by 8.30 – not really wanting to as we’ve loved our stay here. But new places await.

Hiroshima is a must visit to make everyone aware of the outcomes of war. It’s a very sobering place to visit.

We arrived by a JR Train using our Suica card. Locating lockers is easy with the great signposting. Then headed off by tram for the castle. The city is all new – for obvious reasons. A constant reminder of what happened but in 1941.

We decided, due to time limitations to just walk the castle grounds before moving on to Peace Park and the memorial to the victims lost in the bombing.

One of the most poignant moments was seeing the memorial for the children lost in the bombing and the many who dyed after from leukaemia.

When reading to children in the library I would read the story of Sadako and the Thousands Paper Cranes. When Sadako became ill at 10 her room mate told her about the legend of the thousand paper cranes – if she folded a thousand paper cranes she would be granted a wish. She folded 1,300 but died soon after. Now the paper crane is a symbol of peace. Hope and healing.

There are cabinets of thousands and thousands paper cranes which people are adding to each week.

If you like film try and see the movie called Touch. It’s a beautiful but sad story of a young Japanese woman and Swedish man who fall in love. and the impact of the bomb years before.

We continued on our journey. another train. A Shinkansen.

Heading towards Okayama the McGregors got off at Ominichi. They are cycling for two days.

We continued onto UNO Port. I’m very keen to visit the art island of Naoshima. We’re staying in the port tonight.

Luckily for us we got a booking at Bluno. Recommended by a friend it’s French Japanese food.

Our hotel was a little bit of a mystery. We couldn’t get anything on the island and many hotels here were booked out so we booked at one with a Japanese name.

Turns out it’s small but perfect little rooms. Comfy beds, lovely yakatas and an opening window for fresh air. Just fine for 2 nights.

Taken from my comfy bed. The navy white yakata

We’ll explore a little before heading to Bluno. There is an art trail of outdoor sculptures. Such an interesting place.

Dinner was delicious and lots of fun with the Wilsons as we reminisced about the holidays we have done together.

Tomorrow we head to Naoshima Island just 20 min by ferry. it’s become a destination for lovers of art.

frans travel tales

come along with me

Month: October 2025