Cocos Keeling Islands

Tropical Rain

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There is a distinct sound to tropical rain. It absolutely pelts down and the trees surrounding the house make dripping and drooping sounds.

Another swim in the rain followed by a simple breakfast. Life here is uncomplicated and quiet. If only we weren’t so worried about Jo.

We walked through the pelting rain to one of only two restaurants which are only open on odd days and odd hours. Today it’s open. We got big cups of coffee ( $16) and sat alone until a group of 4 came in with a local woman and sat near us.

Turns out they are journalists covering this area for a tourism promotion! Not a great time to be here. They shared their sweet pandan rolls with us and Paula our housekeeper arrived to chat and take them back to the house for more photos.

We went onto the Cocos Malay Museum. It’s small and the sign outside advises that if it’s locked ( it wasn’t ) to go to the shire office nearby and get the key.

We got in and spent some time absorbing what life would have been like. The Clunies-Ross family ran a huge copra business here. They employed many Malay people who stayed and became Australian citizens when they voted to stay with Australia.

We felt the museum would benefit from a retired person like Steve to add explanations to their displays. Perhaps he should offer to return and fiend time doing that.

We had ordered some curry puffs and spring rolls at the restaurant and went back to collect them. I got talking to the young man who took our money. ( 16 pieces for $54). Thomas from NZ met Ammanah when he moved to Perth. She was studying. They fell in love and I imagine it would have been hard for her Muslim family to accept Thomas. He decided to move to Cocos with her , convert to Islam and marry. He’s now employed by the local Council to run their waste management program.

They were just lovely to chat to and ask about life on Home Island. It’s very different to life on West Island. Home island is where the Cocos Malays live. Some travel back and forth for work.

Back at the house we shared our food with Wolf and Marion our Putin admirer.

Once again the afternoon was spent reading and playing a banangram. It was pouring. no wifi.

The other two couples usually eat and go to bed very early. So I prepared a cheese plate to share and we sat with Greg, Bruce and Atsuko for awhile. This is a dry island though guests at the house can bring some alcohol with them. You can’t buy it here. We’ve had a very small gin each evening. That’s it!

Our evenings are spent reading. And Steve seems to be able to sleep from 8.30 till 7. Amazing.

We’re hoping for news about our flight tomorrow evening at 6pm. It’s not looking promising. Jo and Martyn still have no idea of their medivac retrieval. Imagine if it were life threatening.

Leaving Cocos. Or Not.

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Tuesday. And the million dollar question is ….. do we leave today ?

No rain this morning but also no wifi so to find out what is happening we walked to the medical clinic. Thank goodness for these medical people. We used their wifi to talk to Martyn and Jo who said the word was out that our plane was going leave Perth.

We packed up and prepared for the 2.30 ferry back to West Island to spend time with Jo.

It poured with rain as we got on and off the ferry.

New friends Bruce & Atsuko
Farewell from Paula & Greg

Got a lift to the clinic with Waka one of the nurses. Jo is in good spirits though we had a cry and a laugh. It’s now reached the stage that it seems the medivac company has put this retrieval in the too hard basket. It’s not the weather. The Doctor here is getting tough with them.

Our plane had landed We made our way across the road joined the queues. Got checked in, got on the plane. So far so good.

An hour later. Two hours later. A short message about the fuel truck breaking down. Someone looked out the window. Luggage coming off.

Captain made an announcement. We are out of crew hours. They have to stop work.

Off the plane and a vague message. ‘We’ll try and find accommodation for you.’ Didn’t sound promising

We struck it lucky. KL the nurse manager here has finished her contact and is leaving. She saw us and took us to the nurses flat at the medical clinic. Having Jo in the clinic all week has brought some lovely people into our lives.

We had a good night then in the morning started to rearrange our travel. Cancel our points business class seat. Book more seats to Brisbane. No more points seats. Double the $$$ as the cricket has just finished. but now whatever it takes. We’re leaving. And Jo isn’t.

It’s so sad that this beautiful place has left us feeling sad.

The people we have met has almost made up for it. I’ll write a whole new post about them.

Flight rescheduled for 1.30 Wed.

Walking in Home Island : Part 2

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We continue along the water front in sunshine.

Past the Museum and onto the gravel road leading to the beaches.

It was deserted and quiet. We waded out and out trying to get to water deep enough to swim. 🏊🏻‍♀️ very difficult!

Steve swam off and around to the next bay. I followed at a leisurely pace. It was gorgeous swimming. Not much yo look at. I didn’t spy any turtles or even any fish.

We dried off and walked to the top of the island. We were only a short spit away from Direction Island. This is the place everyone says is stunning. Because of the rain we haven’t made it over. We funny fancy going there for 5 hours sitting on a wet beach no matter how beautiful the water. But our host here Paula, said the bay here is just as beautiful.

We came to the island’s cemetery. I have seen a Muslim cemetery so was surprised to see there were two crosses in each small grave plot one tied with a head scarf. And over the graves a small umbrella to shade.

We walked back through the little township and stopped at the supermarket. Several families were shopping. It was much better stocked than the supermarket cooperative on West Island.

The rain was starting again but did we care? We were already wet!

Back to Oceanic House for lunch and a chat with Wolf & Marion. Their English is better than our German – though Steve’s was trying hard.. They were telling us all the things their Government are doing wrong. Sound familiar!!!!

Too many refugees have made it impossible. Turning off gas, coal and nuclear, thinking the sun & wind would provide enough electricity has lead to huge power shortages and high costs. Wolf was getting very passionate. He loves Australia and advises we do things more thoughtfully. We can only hope.

Our bedroom is large and comfortable and we spent some time reading and listening to the rain before dinner. Tonight fish curry. Just 1 serve. It was hot, it was spicy.

Wolf & Marion had something with sauerkraut and Bruce and Natsuko had noodles.

After dinner we sat in the lounge and chatted to Paula and Greg. Such a well travelled interesting couple.

Do look up her website. PaulaCornell.com

Off to bed with the rain pelting down. I haven’t eeen such continuous rain for a long time.

We won’t be leaving Tuesday according to Greg who was a pilot in the British airforce. Visibility will be against them when landing. This is also why the medivac plane can’t get here to pick up Jo.

We just have to wait. We might get lucky. Heavens knows we need a little luck on this holiday.

Sunny in Paradise……

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We had a locally made curry last night – the house managers get local people to provide a takeaway service to the house. It’s great. It saves cooking your own meal in the shared kitchen and the only 2 restaurants on the island are only open once it twice a week and not at all in the rain.

Our night was very peaceful – only waking to hear the rain pouring and then the call to prayer at 4am onwards.

When we woke the sun was struggling through. It looked completely different outside. The water opposite the house the most delicious aqua blue.

Outside our house

Paula provided us with a beautiful breakfast. Soaked oats and a bowl of exotic fruits, scrambled eggs and three types of local honey. Very delicious.

Paula Carnell along with her husband Greg have travelled from Somerset England to here to be house keepers for this house. One reason is to see the impact on bees this local environment has.

Paula studied art and became a very well successful artist painting on silk. Sge ran a successful card business. She produced a book of 40 paintings – After an illness put her out of action for nearly seven years it was during her slow recovery that she became interested in bees.

She started keeping bees and never looked back. She is studying to be a medical herbalist has a business called Creating a Buzz about Health. She is a bee consultant, artist , author of several books, traveller, podcaster and charming.

They are minding this house for a year. Adventurous! Paula wanted to keep bees in Cocos and they were offered this house to housekeep. They aren’t the managers. They simply ( or not so simply) do the house keeping.

Our walk this morning took us along the lagoon side of the island.

Come along with me……

Out the front door facing the water and a quick greeting to Bruce and Natsuko who were returning from fishing.

We saw the little beach in front but decided to head to the other end of the island while there was no rain.

We walked over some paving rocks with the stamp from Glasgow brickworks clearly visible. The Clunies-Ross family came from Glasgow when they arrived.

Past the original main gates

Along the waterfront

Past the houses. All the same.

The roads are paved some have fences.

We saw the Museum which we’ll visit tomorrow.

The supermarket has a little restaurant attached. Closed now because of the weather.

We arrive a the most gorgeous beach. Sandy white bottom crystal clear water turtles further out.

I’m going to post this now as wifi is so unstable. Rain presently torrential at 8am.

Part 2 of the walk will follow.

Sunny in Paradise……

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We had a locally made curry last night – the house managers get local people to provide a takeaway service to the house. It’s great. It saves cooking your own meal in the shared kitchen and the only 2 restaurants on the island are only open once it twice a week and not at all in the rain.

Our night was very peaceful – only waking to hear the rain pouring and then the call to prayer at 4am onwards.

When we woke the sun was struggling through. It looked completely different outside. The water opposite the house the most delicious aqua blue.

Outside our house

Paula provided us with a beautiful breakfast. Soaked oats and a bowl of exotic fruits, scrambled eggs and three types of local honey. Very delicious.

Paula Carnell along with her husband Greg have travelled from Somerset England to here to be house keepers for this house. One reason is to see the impact on bees this local environment has.

Paula studied art and became a very well successful artist painting on silk. Sge ran a successful card business. She produced a book of 40 paintings – After an illness put her out of action for nearly seven years it was during her slow recovery that she became interested in bees.

She started keeping bees and never looked back. She is studying to be a medical herbalist has a business called Creating a Buzz about Health. She is a bee consultant, artist , author of several books, traveller, podcaster and charming.

They are minding this house for a year. Adventurous! Paula wanted to keep bees in Cocos and they were offered this house to housekeep. They aren’t the managers. They simply ( or not so simply) do the house keeping.

Our walk this morning took us along the lagoon side of the island.

Come along with me……

Out the front door facing the water and a quick greeting to Bruce and Natsuko who were returning from fishing.

We saw the little beach in front but decided to head to the other end of the island while there was no rain.

We walked over some paving rocks with the stamp from Glasgow brickworks clearly visible. The Clunies-Ross family came from Glasgow when they arrived.

Past the original main gates

Along the waterfront

Past the houses. All the same.

The roads are paved some have fences.

We saw the Museum which we’ll visit tomorrow.

The supermarket has a little restaurant attached. Closed now because of the weather.

We arrive a the most gorgeous beach. Sandy white bottom crystal clear water turtles further out.

I’m going to post this now as wifi is so unstable. Rain presently torrential at 8am.

Part 2 of the walk will follow.

Move to Home Island – in the rain

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The sun was out this morning and spirits lifted. But not for long. By the time we had breakfast and made some food for Jo and Martyn it had started to rain.

Martyn stayed at the clinic with Jo last night. It’s not a hospital so no night staff, no bed sheets – everything disposable as there is no laundry. A nurse left her medication and when they returned in the morning her pain was extremely uncomfortable.

We sat chatting trying to lift her spirits but the medivac wasn’t able to arrive so Jo & Martyn were feeling a little stressed.

Lovely Pete, our boat man from yesterday and Amy, the very capable nurse called to see Jo and promised to bring them some dinner tonight.

Amy the nurse and Pete the boat skipper arrived with a fish curry

We packed up and headed for the ferry to get us to Home Island. We have 3 nights at the historic Clunies-Ross home Oceania House built in 1893 built by the grandson of the original Scottish settler John who arrived in 1827after the islands were discovered by William Keeling in 1609.

The crossing took 30 mins. ( it would have taken the boys about 4 hrs to swim!) It was calm though rainy. Not like yesterday with waves that caused the boat to pitch up and down.

Looking from the wharf to where we set out yesterday!

Gary, the house caretaker met us and gave us a short tour of the island. It’s very different to West is. There are more people here and the houses are very different. It’s a Muslim community so there is a call to prayer sounded five times a day. And there is no alcohol.

We drive through the wet streets- some closed due to flooding! Gary pointed out the attractions and the best places to swim. His wife Paula met us on arrival at the house and explained a little about how it’s run. There are 6 bedrooms 3 with ensuites the other 3 share 2 bathrooms. Ours – the Daphne room is large with old world furniture and a view of the garden.

The lovely bedroom with a bathroom 70’s style! But functional.

Shared kitchen

There is a shared kitchen where you can keep your food and cook your meals. Or you can ask for a home cooked meal – they have a few Malay people who cook curries. We did that for tonight.

We unpacked and had a drink in our lovely room before going down for our curry. We shared the table with two other two couples.

Bruce and Natsuko from Perth and Wolf and Marion from Germany. The German couple in their late 70’s and 80 something are staying a month.

We had a little look around the house but are doing a tour with Gary tomorrow. He has all the historical details for us.

We miss our friends so much. Wish they were here enjoying this lovely old house. They are still stuck in the clinic wondering what’s going on. We’re all very worried for Jo.

Tomorrow we plan to go for a swim at a nearby beach. Even in the rain they said it’s beautiful and we’ll see turtles.

Swim Plan Change

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We were up early and organised. Jo is a nurse and a nurturing type of person. She had everything planned ready to go.

Off we walked to Pete, the boat man’s house 4 doors away.

Pete’s place with the boat ready to go
Old man . Wood sculpture in Pete’s garden.
Left over from Halloween

The weather was still a bit rainy and windy but he reassured us it would be quite good to swim with the wind behind them.

We got to the boat ramp loaded the boat, had the safety talk and off we went. Straight away it was very bumpy and we were soaked within minutes. We had a 20 min ride across the lagoon to Home Is where they would start the swim back.

Pete had the lures. We were going to fish while they swam.

The surrounding coconut jungle was awesome.

10 minutes into the 20 min ride, we hit some waves. The boat flew up and bang. Down we came and then a scream from Jo. She landed on her bum heavily ( I did too but had braced a little )

She was in excruciating pain. Pete slowed and made the decision to head back. Jo was in so much pain she couldn’t move. Pete took control and phoned the ambulance and the Police. They were there in ten minutes and Amy and Chris, the nurses from the clinic took over. Out came the green pain whistle, the morphine drip and the very carefully placed support to lift her off the boat onto the stretcher with the two nurses , 3 police and Steve helping move her gently. It was hard to watch.

I went in the ambulance to the clinic. The Doctor who lives on Home island was on his way to where we were on West Island. He was changing over today when the plane arrived with another Doctor.

He took an X-ray. Sent it to Perth. Spoke to a specialist and within an hour found Jo had a compression fracture in the L1 of her spine. Fortunately, her feet and hands were moving.

The drugs kicked in and she started to relax as much as she could.

Plans got changed.

They managed to get a medivac plane to come tomorrow from Perth. She’ll be going to Perth hospital.

We spent the afternoon going to and from our house rearranging our plans. Steve and I will continue onto Home island tomorrow- and miss our travel buddies so much. They will head to Perth to see what is going to happen next. Poor Jo.

We bought fish and chips from Salty’s the bakery – come take away. Friday is Fish & chips , Tuesday pizza ( to coincide with the twice weekly plane arrivals. ) It is conveniently placed next door to the Cocos club. Where you go and buy a drink until they deliver your food!

By the late afternoon we had met all the important people here on Cocos and heard their stories.

Amy, the gorgeous nurse is the partner of Pete the boat man. KL another nurse comes from Currumbin and is headed back for Christmas – on our plane. Waka arrived 7 months ago and Chris arrived this week to replace KL. We saw them all at the Cocos club and Salty’s getting their Friday Fish and chips.

I took Jo her fish dinner as we are the only ones in the clinic. They usually don’t have anyone over night. So Martyn is staying the night with Waka only a phone call away.

We are thankful that the rest of us weren’t injured and Jo can get away tomorrow.

Oh …..that’s if the expected cyclone doesn’t arrive.

No swim this time. Steve and Martyn are planning another one.

Cocos Club fun.
Us with Jo and Martyn before the accident.

Quiet Day on Cocos

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We were up early with it bags packed ready for a picnic swimming day on Direction Island.

Best plans often get disrupted. This time by rain. It was raining quite heavily and we decided going to a deserted island – no matter how beautiful would not be the same in rain. For 5 hours. The ferry drops you at 9.30 and picks you up at 2.30.

So back to bed to restart our day later. Steve and Martyn had a visit from Peter the boat captain for tomorrow’s big swim. He took them to where they would be landing and discuss the route from Home island to here on West Island.

Jo & I caught up on our reading on the lovely verandah. We went walking in a break in the rain and ended up at Sally’s bakery. It it had closed. The only cafe and the 2-3 restaurants only open intermittently. Very strange.

We dropped into the supermarket and got some bread. $10 I don’t know how people live here. The prices are so expensive and it’s such a long way to go to get anywhere. It’s actually closer to Malaysia than Australia.

We browsed the little information centre / museum. Then headed back along the waterfront for lunch on our verandah.

Last night we’d gone up the Cocos club for a few drinks before dinner. But discovered the little restaurant that was down to open tonight was closed for the Year 10 formal. So we had to buy a frozen bbq pack to cook at home. It worked out beautifully. But the 2 glasses of wine made me sleepy so it was another early night. We are definitely settling into island life.

In the afternoon I went for another walk and spotted 4 black tipped sharks. Just off shore.

Then I found the old Government House. Government House, constructed in 1953, is an important symbol of Australian Government representation on the Cocos (Keeling) Islands.

It features a similar design to other houses in the area. It’s one story , suited to local climatic conditions and includes a formal driveway with white painted edges, fencing, a flag pole and area for entertaining. It is sited with ocean frontage.

I walked past the High School which goes to year 10.

And I adored all the frangipani trees either bouys handing in them.

We had dinner on our verandah. A carb load g for Steve and Martyn getting ready for their 9 km swim tomorrow.

Off to bed early to get ready for when Peter arrives with his boat to take us over the Home Island to swim back. Jo & I will travel on the boat to organise the feeds. Regular drink stops and a sugar hit to keep them going.

Our friend, Martyn Southall in raising some money for National Breast Cancer Foundation.

Martyn and Steve are both looking to do a 9 km swim at Cocos Island on Friday.

The link is below.

https://fundraise.nbcf.org.au/fundraisers/martynsouthall/swim-for-breast-cancer

If you’d like to know more or make a donation please use the link.

Wish them luck. The conditions are not ideal so we hope they make it.

Cocos Keeling Island – History

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Many people (including myself ) know about Cocos Islands. I have now read a lot about it and its history.

The islands were on the ancient trade route between India, Burma, and Southeast Asia and were regularly visited by ships. In the 16th century, Portuguese sailors named the islands after the Portuguese word for coconut, coco

The islands were then discovered in 1609 by the British sea captain William Keeling but no settlement occurred until the early 19th century. One of the first settlers was John Clunies-Ross, a Scottish merchant; much of the island’s current population is descended from the Malay workers he brought in to work his copra plantation. The Clunies-Ross family ruled the islands as a private fiefdom for almost 150 years, with the head of the family usually recognised as resident magistrate. The British annexed the islands in 1857, and for the next century they were administered from either Ceylon or Singapore. The territory was transferred to Australia in 1955, although until 1979 virtually all of the territory’s real estate still belonged to the Clunies-Ross family.

Charles Darwin spent 12 days at the Cocos (keeling) Islands in the Indian Ocean during the Voyage of HMS Beagle in 1836. He explored many parts of the archipelago, and collected a large number of geological, plant and animal specimens.

The Two World Wars saw the islands become targets due to their strategic position in the Indian Ocean. 

From 1944 to 1946 the tranquil islands came under military administration and buzzed with activity, home to thousands of military personnel.

The people of the Cocos Keeling Islands voted to become part of Australia in 1984. 

The islands are now an internationally significant habitat for wildlife, and a remote tropical paradise for tourists seeking adventure, culture and space to breathe

The island is home to some rare bird including the red foot booby bird. I remember when we were in Galapagos we saw the blue footed booby bird.

The red footed booby bird

Cocos is also home to the red crab. There are hundreds of them. Little ones to quite big ones who crossed the sandy road in front of us when we went cycling out to the yacht club yesterday.

The sunsets are also very special. Though we have had a lot of cloud cover tonights was rather lovely.

Cocos Keeling Islands here we come.

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‘No overseas trip for us I said.’ After our epic 9 week trip last year we needed to holiday closer to Australia.

2024 has seen us go to Adelaide twice. Once for the wonderful Adelaide Festivals ( and yes my choir Soul Song sang ),. Back to Adelaide in June for our nephew Luke’s 50th and his brother Kenrick’s 40th.

A visit to Sydney for my niece Pips 40th was fun with a beautiful High Tea at the Intercontinental Hotel.

A road trip to Tamworth for Steve’s birthday, staying at Goonoo Goonoo a cattle property set up for guests. It’s really beautiful with a top class restaurant called Glasshouse perched on a hill overlooking the green pastures.

Then a visit to the Tamworth Regional Art Gallery for a quilt exhibition and lecture by Jenny Bowker AM. Jenny travelled with her husband Bob to many middle eastern countries when he was an ambassador. She made the most of her time there by connecting with local craftspeople and has told the story of her adventures in her quilts. Quite extraordinary.

Our early November trip to French New Caledonia was cancelled due to the continued civil unrest in the country. hopefully we’ll get there at another time. Steve’s Grandmother grew up there so he’d love to discover the world she lived in there.

Our final trip is to the Cocos Keeling Islands. Sitting in the Indian Ocean off the coast of Western Australia it is close to Malaysia so many of the Cocos Malay inhabitants are Islamic.

We are on West Island for a few nights. Then Home Island.

There are around 600 people with many on West Island where the airport is located and then Home Island has many of the Cocos Malay people and the very old Oceania House.

After a very long travel day due to island winds delaying our plane we finally arrived around 8.30. There are only 2 flights a week from Perth and last week the plane got to Christmas Island then had to turn back.

An unscheduled stop at Learmouth for fuel ( in case we couldn’t stop at Christmas Island ). We managed to land at Christmas and dropped off passengers and picked up others doing the round trip back to Perth.

Our house is great. We walked from the airport as our host took the bags in her car. It’s opposite the water and has 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms for ourselves and friends Jo and Martyn.

Outside our house.

Tomorrow adventures await.