Holidays: It’s a Wrap .

July 3, 2025July 3, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 7 Comments

Our last days.

Palermo and Cefalu. We packed an overnight bag and stored our bags to travel to the beachside town of Cefalu.

It’s the seaside playground for many Italians. It has a long seaside promenade, an old town , lots of churches, heaps of restaurants views to die for, a castle on a high hill behind the town and is only 52 mins by fast train from Palermo.

I booked Stella Vi a BnB there are mostly BnBs and not many hotels. And not many lifts. I tried. I really did.

80 steps up ! Lucky we left our bags in Palermo.

Arriving for lunch we headed from the train to the seaside. We’re like seagulls. An 8 min walk. yet another caprese salad. I love this simple salad.

We plan our activities around the heat …. And the stairs.

We checked in and Rosalia welcomed us. The room is beautifully done – all shiny tiles and Italian features. And 80 steps up!

After a siesta we headed to the hugely crowded beach.

Italians on holiday. At the public beach it was wall to wall umbrellas, almost nowhere to leave our clothes. We didn’t take phones, bags etc – beware of thieves!

There was sand! And a few little waves. But Italians don’t catch waves. But they do embrace the beach play. There were water sports. Shuttle cock & waterpolo balls everywhere. People standing in the shallows chatting.

Once again I was totally over dressed in my 1 piece swimming costume ! Everyone is in a bikini. The bottomless ones for all shapes and sizes. And 1 elderly granny in a 1 piece. And me.

Steve stunned them by going out the back and swimming!

We didn’t stay too long. It was very hot out of the water and we had to prepare for our evening passeggiata. And dinner on a seaside deck.

Dressing ready to slow walk through the old town it was such a scene. Everyone who wasn’t still on the beach were walking. Slowly. Looking tanned or burnt.

The cathedral had evening Mass on so we sat and observed. And fanned. Those fans aren’t just for show. Everyone uses them.

The shops were doing a great trade. Late shopping suits beach holiday makers.

We stopped for an apertivo. A light drink and snack is meant o stimulate the appetite! And it’s a great chance to observe the holiday makers.

At 8pm we headed to Liska. We had a beautiful table on the deck by the water. We sat and enjoyed mussels and Grillo my new favourite Italian white wine and recounted our holiday.

Steve did a huge walk – climb up the big hill or rock behind the town. it was very hot and took him nearly 2 hours to go up and back. He got some great photos.

Favourite experiences; for me Choir Blast with friend Ros and swimming 6km ( can I have two ?)

Favourite hotel : apart from our friends Bill and Marie France’ beautiful flat and niece Bertie’s BnB probably Favingnana. A week in one spot that had all we needed was great.

Best English experience: picnic and Opera at Glyndebourne.

Best meal : Rick Steins Seafood Padstow. And Pizza party at Bertie’s …. And Marie France’ great cooking and hospitality.

Best bed ; Bertie’s! Comfy and beautiful fresh air!

Best Hotel overall : maybe Palermo.

So many ‘bests’ it’s hard to narrow it down. My accomodation skills didn’t let me down.

Choir seems ages ago. But it was so memorable- sharing with our friends Ros and David. Bonding with the choir friends.

Swim trek with Francesco and meeting Guila. Shared swimming with the Americans and the Aussies. Glorious swims. Fantastic sunsets.

Our last night was in a BnB 10 minutes from Palermo airport. We herded somewhere close. It was perfect. Big grounds with a swimming pool and every detail covered. A walk to a pizza restaurant with views.

And so the sunsets on our holiday are over.

Except for the 10 hr layover in Singapore. I booked a hotel by the hour. It was great and decided that’s all we wanted. Air con, wifi, bed shower restaurant. We got it.

And as we take off in Singapore one row from a choir buddy , her family and her mum who I met on tour I think how lucky I am. Family here we come.

No Mafia.

July 1, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 4 Comments

Our day started with breakfast on the terrace

A short walk up Via Maquardo to Teatro Massimo to meet Hermes – our guide.

Hermes pointed out if we wanted to find out about art, churches and galleries then we were on the wrong tour.

He was here to walk us through the history of the Mafia.

He explained the reason he has made it a lifetime crusade. When he was 6, he remembers hearing the sounds of a huge bomb exploding on the motorway near his house. It was the bomb that killed the anti mafia judge Falcone and his wife.

It was after this happened that people began to object and say NO. Businesses targeted to pay Pizzo started to say no more payments will be made. It has grown. Shops show a sign to show they are not paying’pizzo’ or ‘protection ‘ money to the mafia.

Hermes led us to various sights and we sat – in the shade thankfully and listened to how the mafia operated with shops. the police, the church, politicians and how it has changed over the years. But still they exist.

A wall with pictures of those killed by the mafia.

We walked through the markets towards the courts.

We finished outside the fountain of shame. Called this because it has many nude statues. And either side of the fountain is a church and a convent. It was considered shameful for the nuns to have to look at the nude statues !

A visit to the nuns bakery for the best cannoli in town. They were huge. And I forgot to get a picture.

It was noon and hot so back to our hotel across the road for a cool down

At 2pm we hit the streets again. To visit the Royal Palace and the Palatine Chapel – another Roger 1 build when he conquered Sicily in 1130 something !

The Palace is used for Parliament sittings except when open to the public.

As usual lots of stairs to climb. but definitely worth it for the Chapel. It’s stunning with its mosaics

I discovered Elliot Erwitt. A photographer his exhibition was in the palace and is stunning.

Back down the Via to the cathedral which is very grand. Inside was a buzz of noise. All the locals were gathering ! Something was happening. The Franciscan friars were all strolling in looking hot.

Locals were greeting them and showering them with double kisses and holding little portable fans to their hot sweaty faces. Everyone else was fanning away. It was fascinating to watch.

Back to our room to freshen up. We were having mother Marion and her daughters Grace and Celia meet us on our terrace for drinks.

They were on the swim trek and we saw them here yesterday and arranged a drink.

The day still wasn’t over !

After drinks and grazing plates Steve and I left for Teatro Massimo. We wanted to see their opera theatre and found a concert. Opera favourites. Starting at 9pm it was late for us!

Entering the stalls of the Teatro Massimo

The baritone and soprano were young and great.

We walked home at around 10.30 exhausted. And the city was coming alive!

Palermo : I Like You

June 30, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 2 Comments

Travel is so easy these days with phones holding tickets, maps, advice, hotel bookings. Everything you need is saved online.

We had a eSIM in England but here we’ve managed with Wifi with the odd day on Telstra.

The bus into Palermo was about 2, hours from the ferry at Trapani. It was a very hot day so the good air con was welcome.

The bus stopped at Via Vittorio Emanuel and 5 minutes walk we were in our hotel.

I was very pleased with this one. A lift! is a win , a big cool room and bathroom. 4th floor and the loveliest young woman on reception.

Steps outside the hotel is …… everything. We are just a few steps to the corner Quattro Canti at the end of via Maqueda which is the restaurant, cafe bar street and leads everywhere.

Leaving out bags we headed out for a slow walk. It was hot but walking on the shade side was good. A nice breeze came up from the port and we wandered past Palazzos which in their day must have been amazing.

Now they are home to multiple apartments and BnB’s though it easy to see how grand they would be.

Three hours walking led us to an afternoon in the cool before heading to our roof to for an evening Aperol before our passaggiatti

The roof top bar is like an oasis above the noise of the street below. In need of a secondi – a plate of something other than antipasto we headed out into the street walking past the buskers, the street food vendors , the aperol mobile carts, the few rough sleepers, teenage groups of Ragazzi , people sucking on vapes, groups drinking vino outside restaurants waiting to get in

Palermo is a surprisingly lovely city. It has its edge. It’s busy, but quite clean. Magnificent buildings

We’ll find out more about its ‘ underbelly ‘ tomorrow on the No Mafia tour

Last Swim Days

June 30, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 4 Comments

Guila smearing me with Vasalino for the last time…..to prevent swimmers rash!

Oh I’m so behind in my blogs. I’ve been in Palermo for 2 days and I’m still back in Favingnana ! Well the blog is.

The last day swimming was once again without our dear Francesco.

He would hate being sick and missing out.

The last swims were different and perfect.

The swimmers have relaxed and all chatting more.

In the evening we’re having a farewell dinner at Eduardo’s brother’s restaurant. It’s all about family here in Italy.

Eduardo has been lots of fun. He has told us all about his girlfriends but now declares his true love is Guila. It’s become a funny ongoing joke.

Francesco has asked us all to send him a few words about swimming and the sea. Something that shows our feelings for it. he has a game for us.

Everyone dressed up a but – island style for the last dinner together. We shared taxis and drove along the island to Giuseppe’s restaurant. It’s a big area. All outdoor tables facing the bay and the setting sun. A beautiful simple setting.

The fun begins with Aperols and continues with more Aperol or a Grillo ( a lovely light white wine)

The food is shared grazing plates and is simple but beautiful.

Photos are taken memories made.

We’ve known Francesco for 11 years so are so pleased he’s made the dinner so we can say farewell. This could be our last swim trek.

After dinner Francesco and Guila say a few words of farewell and start to give out the certificates. But on the back there is a quote written by one of the group. We have to guess who wrote it.

I read one out. It was a Haiku and I guessed Colleen. Later in the evening it was Colleen’s turn ( Dora the explorer) she read out the words. It was a Haiku! Mine. She guessed straight away. So funny we hit each others. Steve and her husband also got each others. They were both the shortest quotes.

Mine said

Swimming in the sea Blue water beautiful fish Gives me calm and peace

Steve’s: Adoro I’ll mare

Lots of photos. Lots of hugs. It was all over.

A Beautiful Swim at Marettimo:

June 29, 2025June 29, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 4 Comments

Today we met at the ferry terminal. We were catching the ferry to Marettimo.

The islands we visited off the coast of Sicily.

Marettimo has the reputation for beautiful waters, national parks. No cars, white buildings with blue shutters and very friendly people.

It takes about half and hour on the ferry and the first sight gives the impression of landing in Greece. It is actually quite close to Tunisia and our watches will switch to their time.

Today Francesco our guide is sick. Guila reported that he was up most of the night with vomiting and diarrhea. A virus.

Poor Guila is sharing a small apartment with him so let’s hope she doesn’t get it. Or us!

We arrived at the north port and walked through the small village to the south port. Where the boats are moved to when the winds blow.

Today is perfect for swimming.

The town is very traditional. White houses, blue shutters, ( except one house has brown?) terracotta downpipes, and tiles on the wall outside each house announcing who lives there.

We stopped at this house.

Off we headed with Peppo and Nico

They found the perfect spot for our morning swim. We swam into caves, over beautiful fish , red starfish. It was beautiful. No hurrying.

We had Colleen and Dana our American friends with us. Colleen is like Dora the explorer. She stops and looks at everything. And she’s a geologist and expert I’d say in water quality. It was so much fun swimming with her. the 3.5 km went by in a flash.

Lunch by the boys mother was good. But not as great as Eduardo’s mum!

Guila , our guide cooed so well as the only guide. With Francesco sick she was on her own to supervise us. Lucky conditions were perfect.

The second swim of about 2km and again just perfect.

My swim group. Colleen ‘Dora the explorer’

For me the swimming is near perfect. No stingers, warm enough, no currents, no leaking goggles.

Back to the small township we wandered the small streets with little shops selling the usual souvenirs. It’s so colourful. It’s hard to resist.

Marion and her two daughters were great company.

A Sicilian favourite: brioche filled with gelato. No I didn’t try one!

The Island Crossing: Day 3

June 26, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 7 Comments

A long day. A long swim

Francesco said he thought we were ready to cross from Levanzo to Favignana.

The distance was supposed to be about 4km. With our winding route it’s hard to sight for the ending and swim a straight path we ran into a current and swam about 6.4 km.

Guila towed us out of the current near the end of/ about 300 metres let us off again and we zig zagged our way towards the end.

The pink and orange swimmers also found it hard to get through the current and were exhausted as well.

These two videos show the beginning of the swim and the last section in the current after the tow. Note the zig zag!

The first part of the island crossing – around 6km

This first video shoes the straight line we swam. The little bumps are when we stopped for a drink next to the boat.

This is the final 609 metres.

It was altogether exhausting.

No swim in the afternoon. We had lunch, a rest then headed back to Favignana by 3 for a rest before a group dinner.

A great sense of achievement. I didn’t think I could swim that far with little preparation.

Francesco and Guila congratulated us at the dinner.

We have yo have the coast guard close to us to warn of passing ferries!

Swim Trek :Day2

June 24, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 3 Comments

Another slow start. Breakfast at 8 , walk to the harbour and away.

In the crystal waters by 10.30 we had to swim the coast – in and out of the little bays , past people sitting on little beaches or playing in the water. They must wonder what in earth we are doing.

We had a great swim along the coast. Sticking together our group of four Beth, from Sydney, Kaz from San Francisco, Steve and I form a good team. Poor Kaz swam with no fins and struggled to keep up, so tomorrow she’ll definitely wear her fins!

Great little movie if our swim.

We ended up swimming 4 km. I felt pretty good though do get leg cramps. In cool water. It’s about 21 in.

We had another salad lunch. This one a big rice salad, meat, cheese and bread.

We swam around an island in the afternoon. About 1.5km. Short! Because this morning was so long.

The group are bonding.

We stopped for a beer and delicious icey granite on the way back.

Poor Jen tripped before the swims began and had to miss a day.
Big cut on her head.

A little washing a little rest and dinner.

Once again we had dinner by ourselves. So strange for a swim trek not to be eating together. Never mind. I was so tired we had a delicious tuna salad and we ready for bed by 9.

A big day tomorrow. An island to island crossing.

Swim Trek : Day 1

June 24, 2025June 24, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / Leave a comment

Francesco said ‘ breakfast at 8 and be ready by 8.45’ we were to be escorted to the boat on day 1. After that. We’re trusted to walk.

Down to the marina we met Eduardo our boat captain. He’s a typical young Italian man. Very tanned, bald head, chain necklace, vape folded into his fist and a cheeky attitude.

Francesco outlined the day and away we went.

About 30 minutes later the boat stopped in a sheltered bay. We did our orientation swim where they look at our speed and later give us our groups.

I could have saved them time looking at me. I knew I’d be in the slow group and I’m happy to be.

I’m surprised so many wear fins. I’ve always loved mine. I think the group is mostly over 60. There are two sister here with their mum. They’ll be fast.

We swam around 1.5 km maybe more and then stopped for lunch on the boat.

Lunch made by Eduardo’s mum was a huge pasta salad and done cold meats and cheese. Just perfect for swimmers.

The afternoon swim was much longer in our groups. I’m with Beth, Kaz and Steve

We made a tight little group and I was happy with how I swam. It worked out at around 3.5.

Back to the boat harbour it was buzzing and we headed for the nearest bar. We needed a beer after all the salt.

Steve and I headed out for dinner around 7.30 – the others went off in their groups. It would be nice to start being more included.

Favingnano: a Sicily Swim Trek

June 22, 2025June 22, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 6 Comments

We caught the fast ferry to this little island off the coast from Trapani- below Palermo.

Lots of holiday makers were queued up ready to rush the best seats. Some things are the same the world over.

We stood in line and an Italian lady said ‘Sei Bellissimo’ to me! ( you look beautiful) I was flattered. She indicated my navy dress, cream hat and shoes. How nice!

Half and hour later we were in island holiday mode.

We walked up our hotel about 10 mins from the port. Fortunately our room was ready. It’s a newish hotel built on an old quarry. It’s 5 mins from the action.

By that I mean the restaurants, gelato, bars, bicycle rental shops ( every one rents bikes) clothes, beach paraphernalia, jewellery made from shells , umbrellas and countless suntanned Italians calling out to each and chatting.

We dumped the bags and had a quick lunch. Vegetable frittata for me and tuna croquettes for Steve.

The seafood here is renowned. Super fresh tuna, swordfish. Octopus particularly fill the menus.

5pm was the appointed time to meet our fellow swimmers and catch up with Francesco. He was my first guide back in 2013 in Sardinia. He’s the reason I got some confidence to keep swimming.

Francesco is the head guide with Guila supporting him. She’s a former top Italian swimmer who is now working several months a year for swim trek in summer when not studying astronomy at university in Spain.

Guila. Eduardo the boat owner and Francesco.

After the briefing and introductions we headed out for dinner.

The 15 swimmers are made up of 4 friends from California, and 9 friends from Sydney. Steve and I are the only ones not to know anyone ( Except Francesco) I hope they include us!

A fun dinner where we celebrated Celia’s 35 th birthday. She is from NY but travelling with her mother and sister and are part of the Sydney team.