Naoshima. : a full day of art.

Welcome to Naoshima

Staying near the ferry port was a bonus. We had pre booked tickets for 4 museums on the island.

Transport is limited on the island so at the end of this post I’ll give some hints.

We arrived in time to play sardines on the green bus. I can’t believe how people crammed on. But instead of walking it got the worst of the hills out of the way.

We arrived at the LeeYuan art gallery first. It’s austere, minimalist and for me- not really a lover of really modern art just a little hard to understand.

We walked another 20 minutes to the Benesse House Museum. a super modern building but so creative and interesting. The installations and hanging art were great.

Had coffee at Benesse house cafe. Then a little purchase at the beautiful gift shop.

There were some very creative people cruising the gallery
Loved this ….. each phrase flashed up randomly then all come together.

We walked along the coast road and found the iconic pumpkin. Yayoi Kusama is famous for her polka dot art.

There were many colourful sculptures along the way.

We decided to save some time and took the loop bus to the next little port town Honmura. There we started to visit houses – part of the Art House Project.

This began in 1998 with “Kadoya”, and currently comprises seven houses. Artists take empty houses scattered about residential areas and turn the spaces into works of art, weaving in history and memories of the period when the buildings were lived in and used.

Street of the Art Houses.

Going from one of the houses to another, visitors pass through the Honmura district, where everyday life unfolds around them, not only engaging with works of art but also sensing the history interwoven in the community and the fabric of local people’s lives.

Viewing the house means interacting with the locals and presents a sense of community.

Water : an art house project

We decided on lunch and a local told us to try Apron. Set in a regular local house with mum in the kitchen and son as waiter there were only 10 sears.

The food was terrific
Such a perfect little cafe

We wandered the little streets peering through doors and looking at what surprises lay there.

One gorgeous surprise garden

We spotted a notice board with smiley people and their written answers to a few questions.

If whatever you try will succeed what do you really want to pursue.

We went inside and met the artist photographer Kohei Iwata and found ourselves taking part. He was exploring the themes of success, life , motivation and inspiration. We filled out the answer to the question…. Mine was. ‘What big change did you have in your life and how did it inspire you.’ Next thing we were having our photo taken ….

My portrait.

What a wonderful project. So thrilled to be involved.

We moved onto other art houses before climbing at least 80 steps into the New Museum of Naoshima. Again lots of modern concrete spaces spread over several levels. Some fun. Some challenging but very colourful.

Even the crowd were colourful

We walked back down the stairs and saw our green bus sail past! That meant a 30 min standing wait. Then ferry leaving at 5.30. So we had a full day on Naoshima.

Dinner was at our hotel which made it easy. We wore our kimonos as we threw everything in for one last wash!

Sitting at a low feet in the pit table.

I had a rice soup with salmon. Delicious. And a Gin as the lovely waitress said the white wine wasn’t very nice!

Naoshima hints.

If wanting to stay a few days …..there isn’t much accommodation so book early. Or stay at the beautiful Benesse hotel and have a big credit card!

Pre book tickets for the galleries you want to see. this site is great.

https://benesse-artsite.jp/en/

Otherwise stay in UNO Port or at Takamatsu which has ferries to all the art islands.

Look carefully at ferry timetables

On the island can use the bus, bike or walk. There are two buses going clockwise and anticlockwise. Decide which order to see the museum galleries.

You can hire bikes but roads are narrow. Be careful!

Take cash for the buses and ferries. Around 300 yen PP each.

Some of the galleries have cafes but ask a local where to have lunch. You’ll get something good.

Summer would be too hot to be there. There’s a bit of walking and it would be way too hot.

Hiroshima: May it never happen again.

We left the hotel by 8.30 – not really wanting to as we’ve loved our stay here. But new places await.

Hiroshima is a must visit to make everyone aware of the outcomes of war. It’s a very sobering place to visit.

We arrived by a JR Train using our Suica card. Locating lockers is easy with the great signposting. Then headed off by tram for the castle. The city is all new – for obvious reasons. A constant reminder of what happened but in 1941.

We decided, due to time limitations to just walk the castle grounds before moving on to Peace Park and the memorial to the victims lost in the bombing.

One of the most poignant moments was seeing the memorial for the children lost in the bombing and the many who dyed after from leukaemia.

When reading to children in the library I would read the story of Sadako and the Thousands Paper Cranes. When Sadako became ill at 10 her room mate told her about the legend of the thousand paper cranes – if she folded a thousand paper cranes she would be granted a wish. She folded 1,300 but died soon after. Now the paper crane is a symbol of peace. Hope and healing.

There are cabinets of thousands and thousands paper cranes which people are adding to each week.
Today the dome.
Just after the bombing

If you like film try and see the movie called Touch. It’s a beautiful but sad story of a young Japanese woman and Swedish man who fall in love. and the impact of the bomb years before.

We continued on our journey. another train. A Shinkansen.

Heading towards Okayama the McGregors got off at Ominichi. They are cycling for two days.

We continued onto UNO Port. I’m very keen to visit the art island of Naoshima. We’re staying in the port tonight.

A welcome at the station.

Luckily for us we got a booking at Bluno. Recommended by a friend it’s French Japanese food.

A welcome at the station.

Our hotel was a little bit of a mystery. We couldn’t get anything on the island and many hotels here were booked out so we booked at one with a Japanese name.

Turns out it’s small but perfect little rooms. Comfy beds, lovely yakatas and an opening window for fresh air. Just fine for 2 nights.

Taken from my comfy bed. The navy white yakata

We’ll explore a little before heading to Bluno. There is an art trail of outdoor sculptures. Such an interesting place.

Happy with our wine !

Dinner was delicious and lots of fun with the Wilsons as we reminisced about the holidays we have done together.

Tomorrow we head to Naoshima Island just 20 min by ferry. it’s become a destination for lovers of art.