Santiago 

Whoever thought of the Hop on Hop off bus had the ‘time challenged’ and foot weary traveller in mind.

We started the day with a sleep-in. We were so tired after our long flight the previous day. So around nine we went to the lovely breakfast room and had a great omelet.

Then it was a wander though the quiet streets. A typical Spanish trait is to party late and not get going till noon. So we had the quiet cobbled streets to ourselves. There are a few interesting styles of architecture in this city but the area we are in, Bellavista, is old style, some timber, painted brick and lots of murals on walls.

Our first stop was Pablo Neurda’s house La Chascona. It’s his alternate house where he could take his mistress,  away from the gaze of the cities eyes. It butts up against the hill we were going to visit later. It’s painted blue and has an interesting assortment of pictures. That’s as much as we saw as we decided we didn’t have time to wander around the house itself reading the translations.

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The Madonna on San Cristobal

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The llama at the gate to the funicular.

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The view from San Cristobal

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Amazing murals on the walls of Santiago.

We headed along the narrow, shaded road and went to buy tickets to the funicular. An unusually tall Santiagoan ( is that what they are called?) helped us and we bought tickets for the Hop On Hop Off bus for after our visit up the hill of San Cristobal.

The funicular was old and a little rickety but zipped up the steep rise and delivered us to a large paved area overlooking the city. Great views. Considering we were on the first funicular the area had quite a number of people. Their clothes gave them away. Lycra, worn by the fit around the world, announced them as Santiagos cyclists and runners. The hill provides the challenge.

There were more steps to climb to reach the large white statue of the Madonna as she looked out across the city. It was a quiet peaceful area with a large outdoor altar with terraced seating for outdoor masses and then a small pretty Chapel nearby.

We returned down the hill and got the bus. It’s commentary was very good providing us with all the details you need when in a new city. It’s also a great way to see places you wouldn’t get to on your own in just one day. We got off only once as we had visited some of the more interesting buildings the day before on our walking tour.

Lunch got us off and we struggled to find a restaurant with people in it. Lots of nice ones but we were a little ahead of the Saturday lunch crowd. It was 12.45 so I guess most people were only waking up. We didn’t like the idea of being the only people in a restaurant. We found one that filled the bill and the stomach.

We hopped back on for a further look at the city including a stop at a very large shopping centre before heading back toBellavista feeling very pleased at the area we stayed in. Thank you Fi from Mahjong for the suggestion. In fact all your suggestions were great. We just needed more time.

I’m now writing this on the plane – a five hour flight to Guayaquil, the first stop on our way to Galapagos. We have a quick night there before an 8 am flight tomorrow.

We’ll be very pleased to get there.

More photos coming!!!!!

Hola from Santiago

A new country always brings anticipation and excitement. Would Santiago be what I imagine?

Our flight across was very good though an hour late getting away so an hour late arriving. Even so our driver booked online was waiting for us and chatted away on our way to the hotel.

First impressions of Santiago: Not as big as I thought it would be, grey & smokey sky, big roads with not too much traffic, dry grasses, big hills –  mountains by our standards, entertainment at the traffic lights, lots of street art, a little river running extremely fast, parks everywhere and a general feeling of laid back attitude.

We hit the ground running. I had booked a walking tour for 3pm and we only got to the hotel at 2 !

Our hotel the Il Tinto Boutique Hotel –  http://www.tintoboutiquehotel.com is well located in the Bellavista area,  a rather arty,  restaurant area opposite the main areas of Santiago. So we dropped our bags and  checked out the room – very nice black and white decor and overlooked the pool area. There was a commercial being shot around the pool so lucky we didn’t want a swim! We headed off to meet our walking tour guide.

Busking at the traffic lights – Santiago style

It’s the Free Walking Tours Co. Better known as Tips for Tours. You pay what you think they are worth at the end of the tour. There were about 15 in our group with a young local girl as our guide. About half the group were Australian including a couple from Newmarket (near us !) who also have a place at Caloundra.

We walked for about 2 1/2 hours and got a feel for the city and what it has to offer. I was surprised at how traffic-free the inner city area was – compared to other big cities. There are some lovely public buildings some of which were designed by Italian architects.

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This time of year is usually still hot and until today the weather had been over 33. Today with the cloud cover it was a comfortable 27 which was great for walking. And walk we did so that by 5.30 we were getting tired and hungry. We had missed lunch after getting in late and heading straight out, so we found one of the many bars and I had my first Pisco Sour. Delightful and refreshing and probably very alcoholic! So to help we shared a plate of cheeses and meats. Delicious.

I’ll include the description and recipe here so you can try one at home.

A pisco sour is an alcoholic cocktail of Peruvian origin that is typical of the cuisines from Chile and Peru, considered also a South American classic.

Ingredients: 1 oz Lemon Juice, 1 Egg white, 1 1/2 oz Pisco, 3/4 oz Simple syrup.

   Preparation: Vigorously shake and strain contents in a cocktail shaker with ice cubes, then pour into glass and garnish with bitters.

Wedding Night

It seems like the longest wedding ever. After a beautiful traditional morning ceremony we boarded the boat for the hour long trip up the river.

Women guests were dressed in floaty dress and the men – on the whole in shorts. It was warm. Too warm for the lovely jacket Elena had planned for Peter.

 


We arrived to cheering and Nick , Peter’s friend and MC ( or the ‘Party Planner ‘ as Rob called him) , pulled the boat to shore.


  

Elena was still circling in her boat waiting for the groom to arrive before we could start. Finally the groom was ready and she landed along with her mother and brother-  to loud cheers.


She looked beautiful in her third wedding outfit! Brisbane, Cambodian dress and today a lace dress. What a stunning Bride. She glowed.

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The ceremony began on the little beach. Rob, Pete’s younger brother was the celebrant. He made it clear he wasn’t qualified for the job but as they had already been officially married in Brisbane three weeks ago he was leading a symbolic ceremony.

He proved to be a  wonderful celebrant. I think he’s missed his calling. He was funny, sincere and had researched aspects of a Russian wedding we didn’t know existed. Elena certainly did though and it was lovely.


  
Vows were exchanged. Then the Russian tradition of biting into bread. The one who takes the biggest bit will be the one who wears the pants in the marriage.

 
I leave you to guess.

With the official part of the wedding over it was time for the party to begin.


So up to the deck, the champagne corks popped, the food appeared , the conversation flowed and we all relaxed and enjoyed the Cambodian wedding.


During the night MC Nick introduced the speakers. First up was Svetlana Elena’s beautiful mum. She speaks Russian and Italian but very little English. Yet she had prepared a speech in English! Wonderful. She is such a lovely lady and we are happy to welcome her to our family.



Steve followed later with a speech partly in Russian. What a feat!


Finally Pete who spoke from the heart. He was beaming but got quite emotional as he thanked everyone for their love and support.

 

Last Day in the Village. 

Woke late to the sounds in the Mairie outside my window. Today was spring cleaning day in the Place.

The Council were having their meeting today at 11 and there was action in the space in front. This happens to be the space in front of the Brannock’ s house.

There were sweepers sweeping and waterers watering and Policemen coming and going from the Council Offices in the Mairie.


I took the opportunity to put my head inside this Council  building that always seems so closed up. It was rather lovely.

 

Staircase inside the Council’s Mairie building.

Susanna, the fun lady who manages the Brannocks house for the group of owners, happens to be on the council, so had asked could she call in for a chat before the meeting.

Margaret and I went for coffee beforehand at the lovely cafe opposite. It’s such a special little place and holds special memories as I’ve eaten there each visit I’ve had and love the little outdoor terrace.


It’s the cafe behind the flags!

I wanted to wander the streets of the village one last ( well almost last) time.

I saw so many things this morning , afternoon and evening. You would love it.

We walked down past Bar Marigny and  saw the crowd that hang out there. They nodded. Or called Bojour as  we we passed by.  We went to a little shop at the end  of town near the Happy Tree – which has the cutest felt stars hanging in it.

More stalls appeared. Different every evening.


The little boutique has lot of clothes and there was  a mother with three daughters trying things on and looking great in everything. There are quite a few Norwegians and Swedish staying in the area. In fact someone commented that they are ‘very big and take up lots of space in the cafes in their big groups  with lots  of children!’

Margaret and I descended to the cave below with its cushions,  lamps,, bolts of fabric,  glassware, beads and a cupboard of clothes, Tout –  50%.  That sounded good. So after much wriggling in the little dressing room I bought a lovely mustard  linen top.


Back out side we walked along the Grand Rue,  past Mirabeau where I bought some wine to thank John  and Margaret for  having me and to wish them a happy joint70. They have friends arriving in Sept for a cruise then a stay in Cotignac to celebrate.

Then it was a general wander and observation of the locals and the tourists. This village is beautiful and it’s becoming a little seasonal with the tourists. It’s a shame for the locals if they find the work so seasonal they have to move away in winter.


We sat in a  cafe by the four seasons fountain and watched a drama  unfold.

A young woman driving a small car suddenly stopped and jumped out. Her large dong sitting on the front seat saw a likely playmate. Another big dog. So he leapt out of the window.

She left the car,  with about 5 people waiting patiently behind  her and took off after the dog. He was in dog heaven. Now he had two playmates. He chased the dog and she chased him. There were calls from the crowds , waves from all,   until a young man grabbed her dog. She carried him back to her car – now really blocking the narrow street and dumped him in the front seat. She hurried around to the drivers side to calls of ‘ wind your window up!’ She did, she waved and drove off with the dog looking out from his view on the front seat. Drama over.

 

Sitting by the 4 seasons fountain

We saw tables being put along on the road then realised the road was to be closed. There must be a party tonight. We’ll have to come back.

After siesta we moved our aperitif hour to outside the house. It’s a great spot to watch the world go by or to catch up with neighbours as we did.

 

NEGHBOURS,, English couple Peter and Lyn

We just had to go back to the Grand Rue later that evening to check out the events. And there  they were,  dancing in the streets. There was a disc jockey spinning lots of favourites and the dances moved from line dancing to waltzing to swing to modern bopping and the old favourite YMCA. Young, old, big and small. All together. It was such a festive occasion.

Even the gorgeous dark haired girl from the cafe – with the  amazing smile , got up and danced with her mum between serving drinks.


It gave a taste of summer in a village. It was great fun.

Try and get here I can promise you’d love it.

To Market. To Market. French style

If there are any better markets than a French one,  I have yet to see and visit it.

I’ve been to markets all over the world, but I do think there is something special  about a French Market. I really love them.

Is the basket that everyone seems to carry? Including me. Thank you Margaret.


If you don’t own one you can quickly buy one.


Perhaps it’s the colourful umbrellas providing shade as you move around.


Or the cafes to help rehydrate?  People drink Rose here like its a soft drink!


Perhaps it’s the stall owners? They are busy but friendly.

 

Carpe Diem

Or maybe it’s  the music wafting around as you browse the stalls.


Or the fruit and veg ? That rockmelon smells fresh and delicious. And tastes so sweet and juicy.

Or the heavenly  smelling fresh bread.

Or the beautiful French girls waiting on the thirsty.


There is something for everyone. This man was showing the young girl how to use the bow and arrow!


The variety of stalls gets me in every time


I think it’s a combination of all the above, plus the personalities of those selling their goods.

Whatever it is, it works. The markets were packed but there was room for all and lots of smiles.

Perfect to buy all your ingredients for a beautiful salad lunch washed down with a Provence Rose.

Life is sweet.

Mamma Mia. Last day in Trani

We survived party night inTrani!  Almost as good a party as in Tarifa last year. The crowds below our apartment kept the chatting up until at least 3am. Not loud screams or obscenities or ever drunkenness. Just lots of talking and laughing.

We woke to golden sunlight, looking out across the port providing the best wake-me-up there is.


A fairly leisurely start with coffee in a nearby cafe before heading off to find Santa Maria di Siponto.

On our way to the car I did my good deed of the day. We were crossing a small street and a little old lady called to me. I went over to her and she asked me to help her across the road. I gave her my arm and we walked along chatting. I had to bend over to hear her she was so little.


She told me she was 92! Her daughter lived in Milan and she had lived in Trani for 30 years. She talked on and on in Italian and I was tested!  We walked another block together before we thanked me and turned into her apartment. She’d been out shopping – in the heat. What a sweetie.

So we arrived ( finally – as we got  a little lost). Signs here are almost non existent except for signs to the beach or Lido or the buffo mozzarella factory!  This Basilica, Santa Maria, was built in 1117 and had many changes  in fortune over the years. It had been abandoned for many years. Until ……

Recently,  Edoardo Tresoldi created a wire mesh impression of the church  – an artistic interpretation of the Basilica, which was abandoned following a 13th-century earthquake and currently sits on what has become the Archaeological Park of Siponto.

It’s an amazing sight.



He has even created some mesh people,who of course we befriended.



We drove back along the coast and explored the seaside villages and enjoyed the names of the ‘Lido’ (“Lidi?”) scattered along the coast. Everything from Bikini Lido to Ipanema, Fanta, Torre, African. Variety is the key! And the deck chairs and umbrellas, as far as the eye can see.

We arrived back at siesta time and decided to pack! Yes, sadly we go tomorrow. To Bari, then by train to Rome. We have a night there and then poor Steve flies home. Board meetings in Melbourne on Tuesday. I’m going off to Cotignac to visit our friends the Brannocks. Lucky me!

So the travel tales continue.

So this afternoon, after a little shopping, we had our last Trani, Aperol Spritz for me and beer for the boy.


We observed the locals. I feel we are getting to know them! We went to the same bar and saw the same people walking. The Nonno with his grandson. The fisher monger who today was able to get his cart through the little lane. The man with the turned up collar being driven to his restaurant on a Vespa by one of his waiters. The handsome man on a pink bike who stops at the corner to observe and make a call (who to I wonder?). The mamma in the cute Smart Car who drops her daughter to work in the cafe. The teenager who rides the littlest, noisiest bike imaginable. And doesn’t he love the attention! The mother and daughter jogging together. All the nonno and nanna’s walking and sitting along the promenade.

I feel we know them already.

We had our passeggiata and talked about the things we would like to bring home.
I’d love the long paved promenade with all its wooden benches at our beach. Also the stepped stone fence available for people to sit on and watch the world go by.

I’d love for people to turn off the TV and go out walking after dinner. But I wonder where we would walk? To the beach?  But there aren’t many places to sit and see and be seen. We need to embrace the sociable side like the Italians do.

As you can hear in my voice, I love the Italians. Yes,  they can be thoughtless – they throw rubbish out their car window! They push in, in traffic! But they love children. They love eating and they love a chat.

After dinner we strolled and I felt like a piccolo gelato. So we stopped in and I ordered mine. Panecotta. Steve thought he’d have the Cafe Speciale. It was advertised on the board outside. So in his best Italian lubicated with wine and after dinner limoncello he ordered ‘Cafe Speciale’. And got a coffee.

So as I’m writing this I’m listening to the church bells and watching the crowds gather for another night that isn’t a party night. It’s just the usual – people sharing a common space.

IMG_2361.jpgOur apartment on the corner – top floor with a balcony over both streets!

So for now – arrivederci!

Terrific Trani a friendly Port 

Slept so well last night after a wonderful dinner on the terrace at the Borgo San Marco.



Today – Wednesday and we set out for a fairly shortish drive up the coast to Trani. We stopped at a few little beach side places along the way including Monopoli a larger port. It was just lovely. Not touristy , certainly no Australians!

It has a wonderful Cathedral dating from the 12th Century  it’s in  great condition and is having even more work being done outside. We saw a priest talking to someone who looked like a architect/ builder and I’m sure he was asking for further discounts on the work.

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I’m sure if I had this as my local church I would go every day. It was full of light and the paint work was stunning.

We moved on to Molfetta another port and found a lovely little restaurant, quite modern, right on the rocks near the port. Steve a had a burger with a twist. It had a curry flavoured crispy bun! I had ….. Salmon and veg! We’re certainly not missing out on any good food. But we are very good. No eating between meals!

 

view from our little table built into the stone fence.

Continued up the coast to Trani as we wanted to arrive in time to enjoy the apartment and the views. Also it’s best to arrive during siesta as the streets are quiet and it’s easy to park. Lovely Fredrica met us and the apartment is right on the front facing the port and will be wonderful for two nights. I could stay here two weeks! Check out the views in the next photos.



Naturally Steve is relaxing watching the last 20 km of the Tour de France before we explore the town.

Out the door is the wonderful view of the Port.

After siesta we intend to explore the narrow streets surrounding the port. The Cathedral is supposed to be spectacular as it is one of the few in Italy right by the water. Fredrica told us this isn’t a very touristy place. It’s mostly used by local Italians for a getaway. What a place. Our friends from Sydney – the Roberts told us about this little port – and now I’m telling you ……

More exploring tonight and tomorrow ……

Have you got any little secret locations you would like to share? Please put into the Comments Box.

From Sea to Farm

One last breakfast on the terrace overlooking the sea. Goodbye Palazzo Senape de Pace.

So along with my own ‘Dan Brown’ we headed off for Ostuni – the white hilltop town over looking the Adriatic Sea. It’s quite a big town and all roads lead up past beautiful gardens to the Cathedral at the top.


The mosaic dome on the cathedral can be seen from far away and the white washed houses shine in the sun. It’s interesting how different areas have different types of features. This one is bianco. It’s not far from Alberobella where we started our Puglia journey. It was all white as well but with the pointy stone roofs.


After lunch we head for our night’s accommodation, a Masseria – a farm stay. Or agritourismo as they are called up north. There are lots of them around here. They offer lovely accommodation often a ‘wellness centre’ and an evening meal. We heard about this one from friends and decided to try it.


I’m so glad we did. Arrival at big iron gates set the tone. The white buildings are  clustered farm style around a courtyard with a chapel, lovely gardens and a beautiful pool area. . Beautiful main rooms and lovely separate bedrooms. It’s charming and practical all at once.

Steve likes the pillows and towels. they have SM embroidered on them!

I’m sitting beside the lovely swimming pool listening to the different accents of the guests, some with children and one family with an Asian nanny.

We’re looking forward to tonight’s meal. It sounds wonderful.

Before then a swim,  a nap and walk in the olive groves.

Palazzo Tour

  • There’s something lovely about breakfast on a terrace with a beautiful view. Do you agree?

Today we sat on the terrace and had coffee and planned our day.


We planned a trip to the beach but before we left we spoke to Sonia our host at the Palazzo. I asked could we have a tour of the house as our Swiss friends had yesterday and told us the owners were happy to show guests their house.

She was lovely and organised her father to take us.

We had to walk out our door No 27 and along to No 39 -they own it all. We re entered and Luigi Senape was there to greet us. He guided us through their private Palazzo. Too many rooms to count. All very luxurious. He explained the family history – all in Italian and we understood almost all.

Luigi Senape in one of the tooms of the Palazzo

The Palazzo has been in the family for 300 years. Luigi grew up in this place and like his father was an advocat – a lawyer.

There are many old valuable items in the house including 3 pianos,  one a grand which Luigi plays.


He was so charming and at the end told us he was 88.


In the library Steve saw a Dan Brown book he had just finished. He pointed it out and said (in his best Italian) that he had just read it.


Later in the afternoon, after our trip down the coast I saw his daughter and she asked if my husband was Dan Brown!

Lost in translation!

So after the Grand Tour we left for the rest of our day…….

A drive down the coast road to the tip of Italy. A little seaside place called Santa Maria da Leuca.

To get there we drove past : hundreds if not thousands of Italian beach lovers with their umbrellas, plastic deck chairs, buckets, spades, blow up play things. And all the women wear bikinis. Young, old, thin and not so thin. I’m definitely overdressed.

It’s a colourful scene and proves its not just Australians who love the beach!

We stopped for coffee at a little beach side cafe. All blue and white tables and a smiley, friendly nonna served us – but it was very windy so we didn’t swim.

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We passed trattorias, osterias, cafes, apertivi bars, camping grounds, holiday homes with shutters down against the heat or …..perhaps they were empty?

We arrived at SS d Leuca in time for a lovely swim and picked a place for lunch right on the beach. The place in the photo above the blue umbrellas.


Once again simple delicious food

We watched the swimmers and soaked up the atmosphere.

Naturally we finished with a gelato – just a small one! As we walked also the promenade.

We arrived back at Gallipoli and our Palazzo Senape and decided to take another swim. This time at the beach at the end of our street.

I love the blue mats running down the sand so when you get out you don’t have to get sandy! This beach unlike many of the rocky beaches has coarse sand.

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We’re back at the Palazzo writing and preparing for dinner at Bastion a lovely looking restaurant recommended by our hosts.

More later!

Otranto

Yesterday we drove across the tip of Italy. The heel.

I had agonised on which seaside town to stay in and opted for Gallipoli over Otranto.

Gallipoli sits on a little island so is surrounded by water. Little bays for swimming, small boat harbours. It sounded more laid back than Otranto. So I found our Palazzo and sealed the deal.

Then Simona, our guide in Lecce said although they were both lovely she likes Otranto ‘A little more sophisticated ‘she said knowingly. Oh dear I thought had I made the wrong decision.

So yesterday we spent in Otranto. It’s different. It had a wide blue bay for swimming and a little boat harbour on the side. It’s old town is charming. But it’s very touristy. Very crowded.


We did enjoy the beautiful mosaics in the Cathedral. Magnificent.

The castle perched squarely on the edge of the harbour has been restored and is used for exhibitions. We saw a wonderful photographic exhibition by Steve McCurry. He takes great photos of people in remote areas. So beautiful photos of people living in India, Cambodia, Pakistan , Africa. Such faces.
We had lunch and a small opera and continued walking along the sea front. It has more clothes shops and restaurants than Gallipoli but not the secret charm.

So as we drove back to Gallipoli I was happy with our decision.

Sunsets over the water are always breathtaking and we loved the one on show tonight. Almost the same colour as my Aperol Spritz!



Another lovely dinner at Tre Sorelle and a limoncello on the terrace of our Palazzo chatting and sharing stories with some Swizz travellers.

Oh I forgot to mention I still love vespers!


And so to bed. The room has a wonderful  ceiling!

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