Back in the Big Apple 🍎

May 3, 2019May 4, 2019 / brisbanefrannie / 6 Comments

Travelling by train can be quite relaxing and it was great leaving the car in Stamford for the 45 minute fast train to NYC.

We arrived at Penn Station and walked 2 blocks to our hotel the Holiday Inn. It’s not the best area – pretty unexceptional street but handy and good for a night.

We came back a day early and our hotel near the Chelsea Markets didn’t have a spare room!

We got ready for our dinner with Rob & Jordan and took off in the Red Line 1 for Wall Street and Manhatta restaurant.

https://www.manhattarestaurant.com

Check it out because it was amazing.

The view, the food, the atmosphere and the restaurant itself. It has a $80 a head, 3 course set menu. If you pair with wines add $58, or choose from a well-selected, well-priced wine menu. There are about 5 choices in each course. They give generous breads with pate to start and 2 lovely chocolates at the end.

So you know what you are going to be paying. And it’s all delicious. And NO tipping! In NY that’s amazing. They practically chase you down for tips here. But this restaurant has a no-tipping policy and the staff couldn’t be nicer.

It was lovely spending time with the kids.

We started with drinks and admired the view. You can see Rob’s office from here. Right on Wall Street. See the arrow in the photo pointing at it.

It was a great night and even the subway trip home was entertaining!

The Mansions of Newport. And the Craft Beers

April 30, 2019April 30, 2019 / brisbanefrannie / 5 Comments

Yay. The sun is shining.

Somehow everything looks gorgeous when the sun is out.

Our hotel right on Thames Street is perfect. We slept in, then decided to make it a walking day. The mansions, the cliff walk and the museums. Too much? Keep reading.

When planning a walking day you start with coffee. We had bananas and blueberries at our hotel. Enough we thought. We just needed coffee. So along Thames Street we walked and found a great Italian place open for breakfast. Suddenly Steve needed a French toast.

Oh my, was it delicious. I had a few mouthfuls. Must return tomorrow!

Then we headed up to Bellevue Avenue. Apparently it’s one of THE most beautiful streets in the US. First stop. The Elms.

Now if you haven’t been to this area you won’t quite understand the wealth on show. These people were wealthy and building big opulent houses was how they displayed their wealth.

We walked along Bellevue Ave and checked out the houses. They are amazing.

The Elms

The home for the Preservation Society.

As well as the houses, the fences and gates are so decorative.

We walked and looked.

Loved this clock on the corner of a park

A modest sized house!

Next stop was Marble house. Not so modest!

“Marble House is a Gilded Age mansion in Newport. Designed as a summer cottage for Alva and William Kissam Vanderbilt by the society architect Richard Morris Hunt, it was unparalleled in opulence for an American house when it was completed in 1892”

Alva was quite the woman. She divorced William and married another multi-millionaire and moved down the street. Money attracts money!

Her daughter, Consuelo Vanderbilt was a encouraged to marry royalty! Her marriage to The English 9th Duke of Marlborough has become an emblem of the socially advantageous, but loveless, marriages common during the Gilded Age. She became a friend of Winston Churchill. ”

So off we went further down Bellevue Ave. Finally to the start of the cliff walk. It’s a beautiful walk along the cliffs in front of many of the grand houses.

Bye Boston. Time for Island life. Martha’s Vineyard and Rhode Is

April 29, 2019April 29, 2019 / brisbanefrannie / 7 Comments

The sun was shining . Of course it is – we’re going to drive!

No problem picking up a new hire car. I looked out our sixth floor window and said farewell to Boston. And to our city view. The Airbnb has been great.

We took the 93 South heading to Hyannis and Cape Cod. Who hasn’t heard of these places and then thought of rich Americans – the Kennedys on holidays!

The drive was fine. Not that much to look at as we travelled along. Then we moved onto a smaller roads and wound our way around Hyannis , the port and the cove and looked at the sun bleached houses. It would be pretty crazy here in summer.

Lovely homes and quiet deserted beaches.

We headed for Woods Hole. We decided to take the ferry and an island tour. Martha’s Vineyard!

I had emailed Sue Bennett from

https://marthasvineyardexcursions.com

It worked well. We parked and got a shuttle bus to the wharf. There’s no parking near the wharf, so leave time to park and ride.

The ferry trip was a relaxing 45 mins. And during that time it clouded over !

We were met at the wharf by Dave our guide. He’s a local, having lived on the island for 40+ years. He raised his family here and had one of the only ‘fast food’ places on the island. It’s right at the Chappaquiddick ferry. They don’t allow chain store food here on the island . So no McDonalds, Chico, Wendy’s, Subway.

He had a little take away place selling burgers fries etc and obviously did it well. He sold it 8 years ago when he got ‘an offer too good to refuse.’

Dave started our tour in an anti clockwise direction and gave us a great overview of island life. There is a before summer time and SUMMER. Then it’s full on. The population is around 17,000 normally to over 150,000 in summer. There are 6 towns on the island and 4 of them are dry! No alcohol is sold at bars, shops, restaurants! They can bring it over from the other towns and drink at home. but it’s not sold!

He says there is also no crime to speak of! No wonder!

We cruised around and once again I loved the houses.

Especially this one above. It’s actually the local jail! He said crime is low, so the criminals they get are for traffic violations and drunks (obviously bringing their own alcohol in). They stay there in the house but let themselves in and out. Sounds good to me. Cheap rent!

We stopped at the ferry to Chappaquiddick and heard more ‘tales’. Dave is a very good storyteller!

The film Jaws was filmed here and the film crew stayed 6 months and Dave had to drive a lot of them around. He said Director Steven Spielberg was very nice and easy to get along with and lived in this house at the wharf. See below!

The man who played the Police officer lived here.

Dave was full of knowledge. Gossip and otherwise.

Now the gossip on Ted Kennedy and Chappaquiddick was most interesting. We heard the ‘ local’ version of what really happened and Ted stayed near here!

The houses are lovely and worth millions. The sad thing is that many are used for about 3 weeks a year! That’s it! In between they pay people to do the upkeep on them. So we saw plenty of workers hammering, nailing and painting! New shingles shone brightly. They are a yellow colour when new, then fade to a soft beach grey.

Needless to say. I loved them.

We heard stories about Joe Kennedy Snr paying the rent on Gloria Swanson’s (actress) house. Why? Well those Kennedy boys loved their women. Apparently.

I’m just repeating what Dave told me.

We saw the house Emily Post, a journalist had. Including her garden where in summer the dahlias are huge!

And then we reached Oak Flats

This house, owned by the man who developed Norton anti-virus software, was completely rebuilt after a fire. His father built the original house and he, the rich son, has rebuilt it exactly.

The Obamas – who holiday on the island for a month each year, sit as guests on this verandah to watch the fireworks put on by the Norton’s on the 3rd weekend of August. Love it!

The stories of the wealthy were staggering. Palm Beach in Sydney and Noosa in Qld. need huge doses of steroids (and money) to reach this level!

Obama plays golf about 3 days a week and flies friends in to play with. Pick me I whispered!

Then we reached the cutest part of the island. The Gingerbread houses!

Google https://www.google.com.au/amp/s/www.countryliving.com/real-estate/news/gmp3613/marthas-vineyard-gingerbread-houses/

These houses are just great. I quote…

” The 318 whimsical Victorian cottages found in Oak Bluffs on Martha’s Vineyard are an exceptionally well-preserved collection of Methodist camp meeting houses. Laced with fanciful gingerbread details in an array of shapes and colors, they also happen to be the most adorable homes we have ever laid eyes on.”

The homes evolved from humble roots. In 1835, a half-acre of rural land bordering a sheep pasture was selected as a place to hold a small Methodist camp meeting. Originally in tents …..

But by the 1860s and 1870s, as the camp became a more permanent, year-round establishment, the tents were replaced with small cottages, most of which display the whimsical Carpenter Gothic style that was popular at the time.”

They are amazing! They are tiny, close together, colourful, and cost a fortune to rent! I think my friends would love to all rent these at the same time. By the sea , in summer. Perfect!

Then we passed an outdoor tent like structure used for concerts and church meetings. Apparently, James Taylor, a favourite musician who was ‘discovered ‘ here. returns and gives a charity concert every five years.

By now my head was swivelling from house to house.

This tour was so much fun!

But the rain had started and Dave was out of stories. He dropped us near the wharf with time to explore the little Main Street. Steve felt like a beer but remembered that it was a dry town. So we had a coffee.

I explored a few of the very cute shops. And it was so quiet. Lucky summer is so huge and the locals can make some money!

We headed back onto the ferry and continued our journey. It’s Newport, Rhode Island now for two nights.

We have a lovely little apartment right at the wharf.

Tomorrow the Mansions! And a car museum! And a cliff walk.

Keep you posted. Hope you like a Martha’s Vineyard as much as I did. Let me know?

Boston. We love you ❤️

April 28, 2019 / brisbanefrannie / 8 Comments

Despite the cool. Despite the rain – we decided we love Boston.

It’s easy to get around. It’s a great walking city. There’s lots to see and the food is great.

This morning, we had coffee, did our washing and headed off. First a visit to Faneuil Hall. What a great market place for food. The fresh food markets are nearby and the cooked prepared foods are inside.

We jumped in an Uber and were at Harvard Sq by 10.30. Our guide Mike was quite the performer. In fact half way through the tour he told us in was in a drag show that night.

He was a good fun guide and kept the large group informed and moving along.

We heard lots of stories about how Harvard got its name, how women were not admitted until the 90’s. Women studied at Radcliffe. Now it is coeducational and women are dominating the numbers. We heard about living in the houses. 90% live on campus.

We heard about the buildings. They are grand and lovely.

One of the houses for students. JFK lived here.

The Library in particular is stunning and built with money donated.

Unfortunately you have to be a student to enter but Mike told us to visit the Boston Public Library as it had a reading room identical to that at Harvard.

After the tour we visited the Harvard Art Gallery. It’s a very good collection. Much has been donated by past students.

Georgia O’Keeffe

Man Ray. I thought he only did photography!

Now it was time for a good piece of American history. We went out to the JFK Museum. It’s a very grand structure about 20 mins from the city centre facing the Boston Harbour.

An orchestra performed in the atrium.

Lots of film clips if JFKs speeches. He was charismatic.

Beautiful rooms with memorabilia of the times

Then it was back to the city to the Boston Public Library. What a wonderful building. Old at the front and linked with a courtyard to a new serviceable part at the back.

The old………

And the new

We walked back to North End past

Trinity Church

The Boston Common with a Japanese festival!

Through the theatre district, Faneuil Hall and straight to the Oyster Company. It was at this stage my phone died so no pictures ! 😢

But I can describe the big succulent plump oysters, the Prosecco to give them life, and the smart jokes from the oyster shuckers as we sat at the round oyster bar chatting to a lovely couple from New Hampshire. These Americans are so friendly.

We called into book a table at one of the many good Italian restaurants in North End. Tonight it was ‘Strega’. Steve was over the moon with his veal chop stuffed with prosciutto. I loved my risotto de mare. again!

We finished with a limoncello and planned our trip tomorrow.

April Showers in Boston

April 26, 2019April 27, 2019 / brisbanefrannie / 4 Comments

We woke to grey skies and April showers. So if you’re planning a trip to this part of the world avoid April!

But it had to be bad to stop us. Steve kindly went to Modern the pastry shop around the corner.

http://www.modernpastry.com

It’s amazing, as is Mike’s – but a local told us to visit Modern. Steve arrived back with coffee and a cannoli!

It’s not something I would usually have for breakfast but it’s cold and we’re on holidays and it’s got ricotta in it so that’s good? OK?

It set me up for the Freedom Trail.

https://www.thefreedomtrail.org/visit

If in Boston put this on your list. It’s great. We downloaded the notes and decided to tour ourselves. There are walking tours but you don’t need to do that.

We set off all rugged up and decided, as our apartment is in the middle of the trail, we’d start from our place and reverse the order! Made sense to us.

We stopped at the first State House.

A great place to start the story of Boston. We did a tour and our lovely young ‘education officer’ spoke at a rapid pace so we had lots to take in!

By now the rain had stopped so we wandered along with the other walkers of the trail coming the opposite way towards us!

There are some great public statues including these in the Irish Square.

I really enjoyed the Granary Burial Ground where many of the key figures of the Revolution are buried including Paul Revere, Samual Adams, John Hopkins are all resting in peace.

I also liked the footpath game of hopscotch outside the first school.

Kings Chapel was lovely. Designed by architect Peter Harrison – no, not our friend Peter!

The new State House stands proudly above The Common.

It’s beautiful. Completed in 1798 it’s dome was done in copper by Paul Revere! He was a coppersmith. It was overlaid with gold leaf.

Today there was a crowd outside the house and names were being read out. Lots of names. All had died through workplace fatalities over the years. Quite moving in its simplicity.

We walked through the Common, a really lovely public space with a big history and loved seeing the squirrels!

This park would be lovely on a sunny day. By now we had reached the beginning of the Freedom Trail. but for us it was only half done. It was time for lunch. We headed across to Beacon Hill. This area is a gentile place to walk.

Spring plantings are everywhere. It’s a pity it doesn’t feel Spring-like today!

We found a warm place for lunch. Soup for me and a Reuben sandwich for Steve.

I remembered great bookshops from years ago when I visited with my sister but the one in this area had gone, so I found another in nearby Newbury St. ‘Just a short walk’ I told Steve! Well it was the other end of a very long street. A very interesting long street with lots of shops – mostly big names operating out of lovely old brownstone houses.

We rewarded ourselves with a hot chocolate for Steve and a latte for me but we were surprised by the things you could add to your hot drinks. We decided on CBD. Read about it here!

I wonder if my aches and pains will go.

We still had a lot of walking to do.

To mix it up a bit we got an Uber to the end of the trail and decided to walk it backwards.

Now Jo Jo, our larger than life very friendly driver was all chatty. She was into food, so we got a good run down on where to eat.

We ended up at Bunker Hill and the museum. Really interesting.

We kept on walking despite the chill and the rain and ducked into a church as it looked so interesting.

Low and behold a father and his daughter – the bride! – were inside the door waiting for the music to make an entrance.

They encouraged us in but we hovered in the foyer till she had made her entrance.

She looked beautiful and it took me back (and made me teary) because at about this time last year, on a Friday, Rob and Jordan got married in Santa Barbara. The date is actually tomorrow but it was a Friday. Fortunately they had beautiful Spring weather with blue skies.

We blew out into the street again and walked across the bridge back into the city.

It was soooooo cold.

We finished the walk. It was so interesting. Now we’re tucked up in our apartment drinking a glass of red bought across the street at a lovely wine shop.

We’ll stumble out for dinner a little later.

Tomorrow more walking. We’re off to Harvard for a tour.

Heading for Boston

April 26, 2019April 26, 2019 / brisbanefrannie / 4 Comments

Our night in Newburyport was very comfortable. They know how to do hospitality here. The place was Essex St Inn and was lovely.

We headed off for a drive to nearby Plum Island. Not as grand as yesterday’s Castle Island – it’s more a beach place. Houses – both big and small – are built right onto the sand.

With the faded timber fences it feels quite dreamy. The houses go along the coast for a km or two but there were no places to even stop for a coffee. Maybe in summer there are pop-up food trucks? Nothing this time of year.

We drove back to town past the airport with a few light private planes sitting waiting. Presumably for their wealthy owners to take them for a spin.

Once again I googled at the houses and churches.

And the pretty Main Street. All shops and businesses have Help Wanted signs out. Getting ready for the summer I think.

We headed off for Concord an important town in the history of the US. The Battle of North Bridge involving the 700 local militia and the 400 hundred strong British. The ‘Minute Men’ – as the locals were called as they were ready to serve at a minutes notice – fired the “shot that was heard around the world”. They pushed the British back to Boston where they retreated.

There is a fine sculpture in the park of a Minute Man. Hand on gun. Hand on plough. Showing he was a farmer ready to fight for freedom – at a minutes notice. We saw where some of the action took place. It’s a beautiful spot now.

But for the absolute highlight for me of this area was visiting Louisa May Alcott’s Orchard house! Yes, Jo, from Little Women.

I’ve always loved that story and had recently watched yet another version – the one with Emma Stone.

Well here is the house!

And the Chapel her father built.

We did a tour of the house. It’s in original condition inside. So no photos. But we saw where Louisa – Jo wrote the novel Little Women! We saw where May (Amy in the book) did her art. There are original drawings on the walls, paintings and sculptures. Books, games artefacts. I was fascinated. There were pictures of the girls and Marmee and Papee on the walls.

And the weather has warmed. Such a beautiful experience. Our guide was like someone out of the tv show. She was just so sweet!

She also told us the real facts of the family. Some things in the book were true. Others changed. Louisa, unlike Jo in the book, never married.

Check out the website

http://www.louisamayalcott.org

We stopped for lunch in gorgeous little Concord before heading to Boston.

Unfortunately for us the traffic was peak hour ! And it took us awhile to get into North End where we are staying in Boston. Near the water.

We explored a little after finding our 6th floor apartment. It’s great. And has city views.

It’s an Italian area with lots of little restaurants and the best pastry shops.

Queues out the door. Even at night!

The spring flowers are trying hard to appear.

We are off on the Freedom Walking Trail tomorrow. Our apartment is next to Paul Revere’s house which is on the walk!

So more news tomorrow.

I hope your enjoying travelling along with me. Where do you wish you could visit?

Meandering Maine’s coastal town

April 26, 2019April 26, 2019 / brisbanefrannie / 2 Comments

Portland was a great overnight stay.

The morning was so foggy we put off viewing the lighthouses and instead headed north to Freeport.

I had told Steve about visiting LLBean the huge outdoorsy store and thought he should see it.

It’s amazing. Three huge barns devoted to everything you could need for being outdoors – or even indoors!

Freeport is a 20 minute drive north of Portland and is such a pretty, well kept place. It’s also an outlet centre. Lots of nice shops selling genuinely reduced clothes. Perfect for a short visit on a rainy morning.

We bought a few things. Steve’s keen on the Ralph Lauren polo shirts and I got some things in J Crew.

We headed back to the lighthouses of Portland. If you were here in warm weather you’d take a boat tour to view them but we drove ourselves.

There are two just south of Portland.

This little cute one shrouded in fog.

But I also enjoyed the houses in the area.

The next lighthouse was viewed through the artists frame.

We continued meandering down the coast stopping a few times. these ‘beach shacks ‘ are hardly shack like!!

Kennebunkport is a lovely seaside town.

And the white churches – and there are many – stand proudly on every corner.

Castle Island near Portsmouth was particularly lovely. There must be some wealthy people living here! The houses were gorgeous.

I’ve noticed people like wreaths on their front door. But they must have a wreath for each season. These ones are all about Spring flowers.

One house had an historic cemetery as part of its garden.

We passed many beaches and tried to picture them with the summer crowds.

Our final stop for the night was Newburyport. It’s a really lovely place.

We explored the streets and once again I loved the houses and the High School.

It’s just like in the movies!

Once again the churches are beautiful and the cemetery had a perfect section for us as it is Anzac Day in Australia. Here the people always honour their military.

We found a lovely BnB and made our way to the riverside for a walk before dinner. There are rows of benches for sitting all with plaques on them remembering someone loved. What a great idea.

There were some great shops particularly of a nautical theme but the Odds & Ends one above was a favourite. Look carefully at the odds and ends arranged so well!

We had a lighter dinner and an early night. These lovely ports are not jumping at night this time of year!

Is there such a thing as too many Oysters! In Maine!

April 24, 2019April 24, 2019 / brisbanefrannie / 4 Comments

We headed off from our Portland hotel and walked the cobbled streets. It’s an up and coming tourist destination (perhaps it’s already arrived!) and the township near the port is filled with fun shops, bars and restaurants.

We followed the suggestion of the hotel receptionist and went to J’s oyster bar.

it’s a modest place but packed with atmosphere. We tried two types of local oysters. A salty and a sweet. Both delicious but the sweeter one won.

Washed down with a Prosecco for me and a Guiness for Steve it was a winner. After a big breakfast we had skipped lunch so we’re ready to eat.

We left J’s and walked along the sea front

Then headed to Oyster Bar #2 called Eventide. Back a few streets it was just superb. Right on trend I’d say!!!

Cool guys working there but very friendly, we sat at the bar and ordered 6 different Maine oysters each. They came with a choice of sauces. I chose horseradish ice and Steve had lemon pepper ice.

We worked our way through the menu. We definitely had our favourites.

But all were delicious. Again washed down with Prosecco and beer(s)!

The rock on the bar was set up for oysters and the guy shucking them was a machine.

After some time there we walked a little, went to the hotel to regroup then went to Scales for our last plate!

http://www.scalesrestaurant.com/menus

What a great place.

We just had to try local lobster. We ended up slightly messy but it was worth it. And so was the Santa Barbara Pinot Grigio.

Slightly messy plate. Well worth it.

Portland is a foody paradise.

Vermont to Maine

April 23, 2019 / brisbanefrannie / 2 Comments

A beautiful, silent night’s sleep in the four poster bed !

Followed by a wonderful breakfast made by Willa at the BnB we stayed in.

If in Woodstock you should stay here

. http://charlestonhouse.com

I guarantee it’s terrific. Breakfast was beautiful. Egg Pie, sausage, fruit and croissant. All while chatting to Willa from Montreal and husband Dixi a former Austrian ski instructor.

We headed off to explore the covered bridges. There are over 100 covered bridges in Vermont. They say they are covered to make them stronger and protect them. It seems to work as most are standing well – though some have had work done on them after storms back in 2011.

They are beautiful.

Woodstock : you may see me in the window!

Lincoln: a fully enclosed one.

Then onto Quechee. It was amazing as the river dropped and the water rushed under it.

Then we headed north to the White Mountains. It’s not the season to be here. No autumn colours ( like when I visited with my sister ) but still snow around.

Locals are heartily sick of winter. Roll on warmer weather!

We wound our way through the mountains. Stopping for the view. And the odd covered bridge!

We made our way to the coast, to Portland, our next stop and decided the drivers are more polite than in Australia. For a start, when crossing a road in a small town, the cars automatically stop for you. Not even at a crossing! They also don’t drive fast!

We arrived in Portland, a beautiful coastal port (which is undergoing a big surge in tourism, ) with plenty of time to explore.

We’re staying at the Portland Regency Hotel & Spa which is considered an historic hotel. It’s well located and helpful staff guided us to the best oyster bars. We’re keen to try the oysters.

http://www.theregency.com

So we left our bags and started walking!

From Canada to Vermont USA.

April 23, 2019 / brisbanefrannie / 2 Comments

Leaving Montreal by bus is easier than flying. No airport queues. No hassles.

We decided to travel over the border to Burlington then hire a car to drive.

It worked well including the part where we had to exit the bus and all crowd into one room and file one by one to the two custom officers. I was just sorry we were about 10th in line. I was quite enjoying hearing the questions and answers. ‘Where have you been? ‘ where are you going?’ ‘What will you be doing there ?’ ‘What did you buy?’ What’s in your bag?’

Most were allowed back on the bus except the man of colour on crutches who could barely walk. He was taken behind the doors. Along with a family with 3 children! We had to get back in the bus and just wait. We were told we couldn’t even get off to use restrooms! Of course that made me need to!

Finally on our way into the US of A and into Burlington Airport to pick up our car. The enclosed verandah linking the airport to the car park was nicely fitted out with rocking chairs facing the tarmac. I wondered if the elderly were left there for a few hours entertainment!

We headed down the 95 in Vermont heading to Woodstock. I stayed there back in 1990 with my sister for our girls trip. We had a wonderful 3 weeks ‘long service leave ‘ from our families. We went from NY to Boston, got a car and explored Maine and Vermont.

Now 28 years later I’m re visiting some of the places!

Woodstock didn’t disappoint. It’s still a charming little town. Lots of sweet shops a lovely town Main Street and Library and a gorgeous covered bridge.

I think this is the shop I took a photo of and painted when I returned.

This is the land of the covered bridge. We intend to explore a few.

We walked the Main Street , found somewhere for dinner, bought a second hand book at the Library, went into fascinating general store ( which truly had everything) and finally checked into our BnB at the end of the Main Street in an appropriately named Pleasant St. Because it was. The house was charming and the owners Canadian Willa and Austrian Dixi, a couple about our age were lovely.

Our room at the back of the 9 room BnB was large and inviting with a grand 4 poster bed. A comfortable night coming up.

We decided on an early dinner having no eaten much today. We choose The Prince & the Pauper. Mostly because there wasn’t much else open. But it was surprisingly good in a gentle old fashioned way.

Cocktails seem very popular here so we had to try one for me it was a Vermont Cosmo and for Steve a a Maple Martini!

After smoked salmon and a lovely pork dish we walked home satisfied.

We planned our next day then fell up onto the High poster bed!

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