Thargomindah’s Country Music Muster

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The dusty road out to the rodeo grounds

Thargomindah is a sleepy peaceful town.

As we made our way the 3km out of town we wondered how many would be attending the Music Muster.

Judging by the caravans set up around the rodeo ring – quite a few. turns out it’s about 400 people.

We got out of our car looking like city dwellers invading the caravaners space. I was thankful we had hired a 4wheel drive and hadn’t brought our white BMW!

The tents were set up , the crowd were all relaxing on their deck chairs and the country artists were on their way.

It was off to the canteen for coffee first then our chairs and extra layers of clothing. The rain has gone because a fierce wind has picked up.

It was dusty and cold. We moved to a new spot and I got chatting to a lady visiting from Griffith. She said they’d been on the road a few weeks and we’re heading g further north chasing the warmer weather.

I browsed the few stalls and wondered which boots and hat I might buy.

Or perhaps some camping gear.

We listened to Bob and Brian and Ted. Everyone seems to know them so they don’t need surnames. They sang about rain, lost love, pink cars the mountains and before long I was tapping along.

I spent some time checking out the other 🎶 muster fans and decided we really didn’t fit the age range or appropriate outfit selection.

Time to return to town for a burger lunch at our cabin. Sitting outside in a sheltered sunny spot we dusted ourselves off before setting off for a wander around town and along the river.

There’s a lovely river walk where a few fisher people were casting lines. The river is so muddy you wouldn’t know what you might hook.

It’s strangely beautiful looking at water, the same colour as the riverbank it touches.

It would be easy to sit here for hours fishing line in hand. Very meditative.

The town itself has only a few amenities. One Foodworks for groceries, a petrol station with hot food, a pub, the Oasis motel & restaurant , an information centre, primary school, swimming pool and best of all a very neat Library!

For not the first time I wondered what people do here all the time? You’d have to do something creative and get involved in community activities.

I’d say today most locals are out at the muster volunteering on the canteen and ticket sales.

Tonight we’re off to the Bulloo River Hotel for dinner and a continuation of the music with Rob, Tom, Brian, Ged & Trudy …….

St George to Thargomindah

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Lots of rain last night so we had a slow start to our day. I love these little motels in country towns. All compact, clean and good for a night.

Golders is the place to go for outdoor indoor wear. Lots of flanno / flannelette shirts. Perfect for country wear. Hats of all sizes and jeans, boots , fleecy jackets. Even Bluey accessories for kids.

Steve got some jeans. ✔️ I tried for gum boots but no luck in my size.

Rain was still lightly falling, settling the red dust so we headed off.

First stop, Bollon. Coffee at Deb’s where all the caravaners – (known as ‘grey nomads’ here in Australia) stop. They are all over 60 and have grey hair – sorts & flannelette shirts for the men. Fleecy jackets & jeans for the women.

We crossed the wide street to the Heritage Centre. Run by volunteers it is a good collection of photographs and memorabilia collected from over many years. Tells a story about the local people which now numbers around 110.

Further down the street we stopped at the Nullawooka Art gallery of the First Nations People. we met Bill, a proud Gwamu/Kooma elder and a traditional custodian of the area.

Bill is a charming man and we could have stayed chatting to him the whole morning. He has a small gallery full of well chosen art, crafts, books & food. All are made by local First Nations people. We bought a few gifts, books, tea towel and postcards / with an image by artist Rebecca Jane who visited from Hervey Bay. It shows the town people and buildings.

The Nullawokka Gallery was the Post Office

Though it used to be the Post Office, Bill doesn’t sell stamps so he send me around the corner to the new PO. Run by Amanda who hails from WA she chatted about relocating to Bollon. Of all places. Fascinating how some people will uproot themselves and pop up somewhere completely different. She was lovely.

Back into the car and out along the straight road passing huge fields into Cunnamulla. Lunch break.

Sharing a sandwich in the park we were joined by the local busker. He was weathered by life in the country. Very few teeth but a big smile and loved a chat.

He had set up in the rotunda with his guitar, mic and sound system. When he returned to singing we were his only audience as he sang the same song about Jesus. Over and over using one chord. A great character.

Onto Eulo and the giant metal sculpture of a lizard. We noted on the map of points off interest in the town – the lizard race track. Pity that’s not on.

Off again on the straight as an arrow road we stopped at Lake Bindegully. By now it was very windy and getting late. The 5 km walk into the lake didn’t appeal so sadly we missed the bird life.

Thargomindah, meaning ‘cloud of dust’ is living up to its name. It’s very windy and dusty.

It’s a small quiet town with a population of around 250. It was a Cobb & Co stopping point. This weekend it’s holding its annual Country Music Muster.

Our little cabin in the caravan park is great and dinner at the local pub was friendly and filling.

Looking forward to tomorrow’s country & western music.

Australia’s Oldest Pub & Western Sunsets

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We had the heaviest rain last night in Goondiwindi. I’m thinking of buying gum boots for the boot scooting at Thargomindah on Saturday.

We had a lovely coffee to start the day at The Larder in the main shopping street. It’s a popular place and with lots of tourists and road workers in town we had to wait to get a little table.

You may have heard of Goondiwindi Cotton. It’s a family business with a great story.

https://goondiwindicotton.com.au/pages/our-story-1

Their clothes are great quality and timeless in design. We both managed to spend up. The sale had started so we couldn’t resist.

I was popping in and out of the change room selecting when I noticed a woman admiring my jumper. I persuaded her to try a few things. She bought ! She suggested the owners employ me!

We took their brochure about the art sculpture trail and went to find it.

Nungwai
On the outskirts of town, we explore the unique and eclectic collection from local artists, Angus & Sandie Wilson. Wonderful

I could continue posting images. There were so many wonderful funny, quirky, sculptures. If you’re in this area don’t miss it.

Then it was off to Bowen Lane. It’s not just the big cities that make use of it lanes. Goondiwindi is up to the minute in style.

This great shop is in Bowen Lane

It would have been easy to stay longer in Gundi but the Nindagully Pub was waiting for us.

We were here a few years ago and loved it. Today after the rain the car park and camp ground was a muddy sight.

We dodged the mud puddles and made for the bar. The oldest pub in Queensland still attracts a crowd. It is quite eccentric but so much fun and easy to spend time wandering the pubs rooms or sitting in the garden under a shelter sporting a chandelier! Shabby chic for sure.

Note the chandelier
A fire pit for the chilly evenings.

Feeling full and relaxed we headed west to St George. A small town making an effort to welcome tourists. Sadly due to rain their special picnic races this Saturday have cancelled. No not covid. Rain. The track is too muddy.

There is a local winery where we did our best to boost the economy. The charming young man who gave us a tasting of their range of wines turned out to be the owners son.

Jock Blacket

Riversands Winery is 2 out of town – out along the Balonne River. it’s a small set up but has some pretty tasty wines. We bought a mixed dozen – and decided to sit in the garden and enjoy the sunshine with some cheese and wine. It may have rained a lot last night but today is now warm and sunny.

Jock advised us not to miss the sunset over the river so we moved back to town. We checked into the motel along with the local road workers in their big Utes and dirty boots.

Heading for the river we took the well planned riverwalk and enjoyed the sunset through the trees.

I could keep posting pictures. It was so stunning.

We walked back to our motel and decided to finish the wine and cheese and not eat out. We had definitely had enough for lunch at Nindagully.

We are now relaxing & watching the news hoping we are far away from covid spreaders. Though looking at the number of NSW number plates were beginning to wonder if people are escaping to Queensland.

Every town has a Memorial This one was very special.

Heading out West : Goondiwindi

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It’s good to get away for a road trip – especially during these random covid lockdowns.

We decided to stay in Queensland to avoid border closures.

Looking at the ‘What’s On’ on Queensland website and the dates we could travel, we came upon the Thargomindah Channel Country Music muster.

2 Days of Bootscootn’, Toetappin’, Bush Poetry , Country and Western music.

Thargomindah is a long way from Brisbane which means a couple of nights along the way.

First stop – one of my favourite country towns, Goondiwindi. This is primarily cotton country. As you drive from Toowoomba you start to see little cotton balls along the roadside. And rolled bales in the fields.

Arriving in Gundi – as it’s known – we are staying for the third time in the motel just off the Marshall Street. Just near the New Dynasty Chinese restaurant, where we are meeting friends for dinner tonight.

I headed straight out for a walk down Marshall St. I love the Art Deco buildings.

The Main Street has beautiful buildings and a good selection of shops. Nutmeg with its homewares, Audrey has beautiful clothes and just off the Main Street is the Goondiwindi Cotton Company. I’m headed there tomorrow!

https://goondiwindicotton.com.au

We met up with Sandi and Mike Henderson, parents in law to our friend Lauren Harrison- now Henderson. We love catching up for a drink and tonight a meal at the Chinese. Lauren& Nick have two little boys. Beautiful boys – and George 3 is mad about everything farming. we had a great meal and shared lots of chat and laughs before the two little boys needed their beds!

We headed to our motel in time for some TV.

Tonight is State of Origin night and this town so close to the border of NSW is torn about who to support!

Tomorrow more exploring along the art & sculpture trail before heading to St George.

Farewell Lady Elliot

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Last day.

Our fifth & last day has arrived and we are keeping our fingers crossed for some fine weather.

It started out cloudy and a little drizzly so after breakfast we braved the conditions and did a reef walk with Jacinta.

She’s a marine biologist and has lived here for 3 years. She was able to fill us in on all we could spot on the calf high water of the lagoon.

We handled a sea cucumber – lovely and slimy and not as prickly as they look.

We headed over the runway to the light house and made our way along the beach to enter at the coral garden. The wind has changed and it’s a little windy at the lighthouse ended today.

I’m writing this sitting in a white moulded deck chair. I had the loveliest snorkel in the coral garden. Aptly named it’s a real garden of blue tipped coral with so many beautiful fish.

We haven’t spotted a manta ray except through the glass bottom boat. But not while snorkelling. The fish life more than made up for it.

The sky is blue and the sun is out. Perfect for our last day.

We stay at coral gardens until at least 2.30. We skip lunch each day having had a great breakfast but today I’m feeling hungry. We eat some cheese then still dresses in my wetsuit Steve & I head to the lagoon out the front of our cabin.

It’s been very windy there all week but Jacinta, our guide this morning, convinced us it would be worth snorkeling at high tide.

In we went. It was windy but underwater was another world. It’s just deep enough to kick along so you are very close to the reef.

We spotted and swam with three big turtles and a black tipped shark. Lots of colourful fish. An octopus…….

Such a great way to finish.

Dinner tonight: salmon, potato bake, salad and fresh vegetables!

Another night of 500.

I’m hooked!

Farewell Lady Elliot. I think we’ll be back

Thursday on LEI

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Weather plays a big part of your enjoyment of an island.

We’re lucky we’ve had lovely warm mornings but unfortunately we have had rainy afternoons which really limits what you can do.

There was a little drama today and a lady on the snorkel tour had to be assisted. She swallowed water. Next thing the RACQ care flight was there and she was airlifted to Maryborough.

Fortunately we like to read. Steve has been gifted the Gin puzzle by Frances and made a great start. And this afternoon he finished!

I went wandering between rain showers. There is a games room which is underwhelming. Quite a few books are available but not many games. Unless the other holiday makers have them out.

Card players have an option! I think the staff could offer a few wet weather screenings of videos about the reef or sea life.

By late afternoon we headed over to the lighthouse for drinks and were happy the rain stayed away.

With our pre dinner G& T we broke open the pack of cards. I’ve never been much of a card player but I’m keen to learn. Ralph & Frances patiently explained the rules of 500 and we had a few games before dinner.

The meals have been good. Several choices each night. Tonight: roast pork, chickpea tagine, beef stroganoff and lots of fresh vegetables.

Then a short movie on the way plastic fragments are found in our oceans. Music & narration by Jack Johnson. I’ve been a big JJ fan so that made it easy to watch.

We had a ‘late’ night tonight playing 500 and I’m keen to try again tomorrow. Rain is predicted so I’m sure I’ll get a chance.

Quiet rainy day

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I can’t complain.

About the rain!

We looked out this morning and though windy on the SE side the skies were only slightly cloudy.

Following breakfast we set off in an anticlockwise way to walk around the island. That’s not as easy as it sounds. The beach is a combination of sand, shells, rocks and rock pools. It’s rocky on the ankles but so full of things to look at.

By the time we’d almost done the circuit it had started to rain. Hard and heavy.

So it was back to the cabin to change, have coffee and settle into some reading.

Our friend Frances had brought a puzzle. 500 pieces – all about Gin!

We moved at around 1.30 to go on a walking tour but again it started raining! So into the bar for a G&T

Then at 3.30 we took the Historical walking tour with Mary our enthusiastic guide. She was very engaging as she told us about the history behind Lady Elliot.

It was named – as many islands and places in Australia are , after the English who may have sailed past or landed…… disregarding any indigenous occupation.

So Lady Elliot is the wife of the captain of the boat also named LE.

It’s was mined for guano in its early days before a tourism lease was granted in the 1960’s with a guarantee it was replanted and an airstrip established. The airstrip was completed in 24 hr. The tree planting and growing took a little longer

Originally just for camping it would have been a hot spot without shady trees! to read a little about the history …..

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lady_Elliot_Island

We visited the graveyard with two graves. Both women. One the daughter of the lighthouse keeper. She died in 1896 of a cold that developed into pneumonia. Built in 1866 the lighthouse would have been a lonely place with a ship arriving only every 4 months. The 30 year old died before anyone could help.

The other was Suzanna, in 1907. She was the lighthouse keepers wife. They say after her 4 sons left the island for boarding schools she was so lonely she walked into the sea and drowned. Not great stories.

Our walking tour finished at the lighthouse and the tiny museum.

Perfect timing. We arrived for sunset drinks.

Snorkeling Wonderland on LEI

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We’ve adjusted to ‘island’ time. Nothing happens quickly and in our case early!

Although, Steve and our travelling mate Frances went on the bird watching tour at 7.15. I’m still coughing so opted for more bedtime.

Breakfast was at 8.30, when the bird watchers returned. They were full of information about the birds on the island and were sprouting all kinds of facts about the various birds we had already seen.

Breakfast was buffet style with enough options to make us happy and ‘real’ coffee was able to be ordered from the bar. That made the coffee drinkers very happy.

Following breakfast I decided to walk at least half the island along the shore and check out the best swimming area. We were booked for the afternoon snorkel trip so thought a morning swim might be good.

I headed off leaving the others to read and in Frances’ case – do a puzzle she had brought.

I wandered along the shoreline. It was fascinating to see all the shells, corals, fossilised rocks, driftwood all along the waterline.

I watched a plane take off and arrived at the lighthouse beach to see the snorkel boat dropping off the first passengers of the day.

Conditions were beautiful. So beautiful, I walked back to our cabin and changed for a swim. The others came with me and we swam in the shallows and managed to get a deck chair for lounging under the trees reading. a tough morning.

We had decided to opt out of lunch – though there is a cafe offering the usual lunch options. We had a piece of fruit and some cheese and crackers that I had brought with me.

The day slipped away and suddenly we were getting our snorkel gear on for the glass bottom boat trip. Taken by Jacinta we were told there was a friendly 3 metre shark around the area and not to worry !

Through the glass we saw some manta rays, turtles and hundred of different types of fish. no shark.

Then it was into the water and away we went. The area is called the ‘coral garden’ – for good reason. It’s a paradise.

It’s fun watching the different holiday makers reaction to being underwater. Some are not too experienced and were nervous, others ecstatic. By 4.15 we were getting back on the boat feeling the chill.

Warm showers, warm clothes and another wine watching the sunset was a perfect way to end the day.

Tonight’s dinner menu: duck, potato bake, fresh vegetables, grilled fish , tofu!

And another early night.

Welcome to Lady Elliot Island – LEI

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Flying north over the Pacific Ocean the blue of the water was exhilarating.

We flew along side of Fraser island – that waste sand island. Coming to Lady Elliot we could take it all in in one glimpse. A spec in the ocean surrounded by lagoons of coral filled with colourful fish and manta rays – even able to be seen by air.

We landed on the grassy airstrip which divides the island. The resort is one side and the large lagoon the other.

We were greeted not with an island style flower lei but with a big grin and a ‘welcome all’ by Mary a staff member.

She gave us a quick orientation talk / tour then allowed us to check in , to go to the dive shop and be kitted out with fins, snorkel-even a wet suit if needed.

I was pleased I’d brought my $10 Aldi wetsuit bought two years ago and never worn. It’s quite windy on the island and with temperatures dropping to 23 it could be cool getting in and out of the water.

There is only one resort here and people come for the snorkeling, diving , birdwatching, and reef walking. It’s not a glamour resort. No resort wear needed.

People are wearing shorts or jeans, and the ‘hoodie’ a fleece lined jumper. It’s not freezing just a little cool. Tomorrow should be warmer.

We settled into our rooms which though small are well suited for a relaxed 5 nights. There is a good sized verandah, somewhere to hang wet gear , comfortable chairs for reading and a beautiful view towards the lagoon just beyond our cabin.

At 2 o’clock we headed across to the lighthouse lagoon crossing the grassy airfield.

We wore our reef shoes into the water carrying our fins and snorkels. About 50 metres out there is a tall pole with a basket to store your reef shoes as you don the fins and swim out.

We were able to immediately enter the coral garden and start watching the colourful fish darting every which way along the ocean floor. Magical.

We swam along the roped off area where every 100 metre there’s a little platform you could stop and hold on and chat with your companions.

We’re traveling with Ralph and Frances, friends who love swimming and had come to our past trip to Vanuatu ( check out that blog post if you haven’t read it already)

We swam around for an hour or so and though the water temperature was nice I was happy to be wearing my wetsuit as the wind was cool as we left the water.

It’s hard going walking out. Lots of rocks and uneven surfaces makes you feel very clumsy!!!

Back to our cabin for a warm shower and afternoon cuppa before heading over the island for our sunset drinks.

What a sunset. Absolutely gorgeous.

You’ll find is here each evening!!

Dinner in the dining room is a simple but satisfying meal. Carrot soup followed by lamb shanks, beef ribs , fresh vegetables, polenta and a lentil dish. All very tasty. With a nice glass of red we were ready for bed by 8.30.

We’re on island time already!