Miyajima with a stopover at Himeji Castle

October 19, 2025October 19, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 3 Comments

I love luggage forwarding. It means the day we leave we just have hand luggage! So easy especially when you see people lugging big bags on buses and trains. What on earth do they pack to need a really large bag? Hint ….. take things out and pack lighter.

Down to Kyoto station. We are all over the public transport now.

In plenty of time for the 9.05 train to Himeji. We want to stop and see the castle.

Into Himeji in 45 mins. Hand luggage into lockers and onto the loop bus for the short trip up the castle. It’s 20 mins walk and we decided to save our feet.

The sun was out and looked in awe at this amazing sight.

We stopped for coffee at a cafe across the road and were welcomed by the sweetest little old lady. She had the worst back….

We bought a combined ticket. Castle and gardens. 1050 yen which is around $10. The prices to all these shrines, temples etc seems to be very low and fairly consistent. All around 500-1000 yen.

Only Steve and Elizabeth decided up climb the steep steps up to the 6th floor. The rest of us went to the first floor. Inside is dark and there is no furniture. It’s all about the views out.

As we walked back out toward the moat we saw a lovely young couple with two little boys. She had a sign saying ‘we are English learners. Can we ask you a few questions’ We stopped and met the most delightful young couple with 2 and 4 year old boys – they were such fun. They asked us a few questions ‘ where do you come from’ what Japanese food do you like’ we had a great chat and then as we farewelled them they gave us a little gift.

Further along the path we met another mother and child. This boy was 7. They explained that talking with visitors helped the children learn English. This little boy had good English. He was very keen for us to take a gift each. This time a little Japanese fabric purse with tissues. And a beautifully folded star. He then asked could we have a photo with him. He told us to put up or 2 fingers as a sign of peace.

What a really special thing to do.

We made our way to the Kokoen gardens.

I was keen to find a seat in a shady stop near some water and just sit. Unfortunately that is lacking in Japan. There are very few seats around.

We caught the loop bus back to the station after a little sightseeing trip around the castle past the museum and art gallery.

The food hall at the station was great. We all bought various food items. Salads, spring rolls and scallops ( but they weren’t hot)

Then the train to Hiroshima and a swap to a more local train to Miyajima and a quick 10 min ferry ride to the island.

Our hotel the Hotel Miyajima Villa was a two minute walk. It’s lovely. Modern but Japanese modern. Futons on a platform, a shower room, separate toilet and basin opening windows! A massage chair, pjs and toiletries you collect down stairs in a little red bag.

Tonight we are having the hotel buffet with an acclaimed chef. It is $99 and includes drinks. Let’s hope it great.

The view from our room is lovely across the water.

I’m sure we’ll love it here. It’s downtime for us after a fairly cracking pace in Kyoto.

Dinner was good! So good we needed a walk after it to walk off the desert we didn’t need.

We walked along the water front. There are lots of children around everywhere we go. It turns out this month is excursion time. Schools all over the country take their students away on trips.

And they were out tonight – being chased by a few deer. Yes it seems they have made it here as well!

The Tori gate was lit up so beautifully it was worth the walk in the rain to get there and back.

Visiting Arashiyama and the Iconic Bamboo Grove

October 18, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 1 Comment

Today was time to send our luggage to Miyajima. We have one more night here in Kyoto so just need an overnight bag for our trip to Hiroshima and Miyajima where we’re staying.

With luggage stored we headed out to Arashiyama at 8 am to beat the crowds. We caught a JR train and changed onto a tram like train for the final 4 stops. It took about 40 mins.

The station has great shops and services but we headed straight out to start the walk. We were there before 9 am so even though the main walk was open it was obvious that some paths were still closed while workmen were cleaning and putting finishing touches to decorations – all made from bamboo. It seems there’s a festival tomorrow which will be lovely especially in the evening. There will be lights all along the path.

Taking a side path we arrived at the Sogenchi garden – very much a zen garden designed by a monk, it has a pond, rock garden , trees planted to provide asymmetry and it is subtle but natural. I loved it. The Tenryuji temple was quite a let down compared to the garden.

We enjoyed a great coffee from a van in the Main Street before catching a bus up the hill to the Adashino Nembutsuji, a temple formed as a burial site.

We walked up more steps through the bamboo …..

We almost had this area to ourselves.

Riding the bus up was a great idea in the rain so we wandered down through the preserved streets.

Torimoto has a wonderfully quiet atmosphere. We found a small cafe run by two little stooped women. Freshly made sandwiches in an old world cafe. Perfect.

Okochi Sanso is a villa with gardens so well laid out that you could wander and not be aware of others following another path. Owned by an actor Okochi Denjiro (1898-1962), this property is now open to the public. It’s just beautiful.

Our time was running out so we headed to the river – no time for the famed river walk.

We got another Romance train ‘ this one not quite as luxurious as the one yesterday! but fun!

Beautiful views of the river from the train

Back in Kyoto I decided to walk in the Gion area. I wanted to see the bridge that featured in the movie Memoirs of a Geisha.

The area didn’t disappoint.

I wandered the streets until my feet objected!

22,000 steps today.

We had a great dinner out before calling it a night. We’re leaving Kyoto tomorrow. It’s been great

Time now for a quieter time in Miyajima Island. And harrowing Hiroshima.

Day Trip to Nara

October 18, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 1 Comment

A day trip to Nara is a good idea. Saves packing and moving. The train system is so good it’s easy to do.

Leaving from Kyoto main station at 10 we were in Nara in warm conditions by 10.50.

I found a great day trip guide to Nara which proved to be just what we needed.

https://thenavigatio.com/nara-itinerary-one-day-trip/

It included a coffee stop at the start of the loop. It was a great suggestion for a nice coffee and we all added a croissant- to help with the walking.

We headed up the Main Street and it wasn’t long before we saw the roaming deer. They really wanted to be fed the water thin crackers. They pursue you hoping to get a cracker. And they have learned to bow to in a very Japanese way.

We detoured to the Yoshikien gardens. They were free to enter and though small were perfect. So tranquil and beautiful.

We left by the back gate which got us to the Todai ji Temple. It’s one of the more famous temples and was impressive because it was entirely constructed with wood using no nails. It also has a 500 ton bronze Buddha sitting inside. It was hard to work out if he was made there or made and moved to his home in the temple. Either way it is impressive.

We saw the tree with the hollow which children were scrambling through. Legend has it that if you can squeeze through it you will be granted enlightenment in the next life. The children’s teacher nearly didn’t make it!

We continued on around the park passing many deers. Its mating season and the cries from the big males was pathetic !

We walked the long tree and deer lined path to Kasugataisha shrine. Walking towards it we passed hundred of small shrines placed by families for their deceased relatives.

There are 2,000 of these lining the paths.

Time was moving on and we had tickets on the Romance train back to Kyoto. We arrived and found our beautiful green seats which were so comfortable after a long day of walking in the heat!

Now was the time to tackle the ticket purchases for the remaining journeys on this trip.

Steve and Elizabeth spent at least 30 minutes with a young girl who looked like she was still at school. But she was all over the complicated ticket arrangements. The McGregors are going on a different place for a few days cycling after Hiroshima and we are going to Naoshima , the Art Island. Then we meet up to go to Hida.

After a freshen up we headed out to an Asian fusion restaurant which had the most delicious , spring roles and beef! yum. Pity the wine wasn’t good!

What a great day.

Fushimi Inari (but let’s talk Toilets)

October 17, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / Leave a comment

Started the day quite early with a train to the very well known orange gates of Fushimi inari We tried to the beat the crowds and probably did but it was still busy.

It’s interesting to observe the rituals before a visit. There were many school students all very quiet and respectful. They all washed their hands before climbing the stairs to the temple.

There are a series of small temples and lots of stairs. I’m pleased we’re not here in warmer months.

Like everywhere it’s a little commercialised with little shops manned by more elderly Japanese men and women selling miniature Tori gates, trinkets, charms , fans all that you can write on and left as offerings.

We climbed up to the start of the walk and slowed a little to allow space around us. People are mostly respectful but some dominate and take space posing for Instagram photos.

We walked along the path. No steps at this early stage.

We turned at the first gap in the gates and returned. This time there was writing on the orange posts.

A coffee stop on the way back to the train for our next stop Sanjusangen-do the Buddhist temple with 1,000 statues for Kannen the goddess of compassion with her many arms.

It had beautiful gardens surrounding the temple. the gardens of Japan are planned serene spots.

By now it was lightly raining so we got a very crowded bus to Sannenzaka and Ninen zaka two narrow sloping roads with flagstone and stone steps leading to Kiyomizudera temple.

The streets are traditional with old shopfronts now occupied by shops selling all types of food and souvenirs to the many people walking towards the temple.

Video shows the mallet throwing onto the dough to make a ball of dough filled with red bean.

Dressing in traditional kimono seems to be the way to go when visiting these temples and walking the traditional streets. There were many kimono hire shops in the main streets leading up towards the temple. not just young Japanese girls took the opportunity to wear them. Many western couples were dressed as well. Steve was not interested!

Looking back up to the temple. It’s all wooden with no nails used in construction

We wound down the rather steep path past mossy statues and headed for the main road.

Steve caught a bus to the National museum, the Wilsons headed to the Golden pavilion they missed yesterday, and I caught a bus to the main area of Kyoto to check out the other temple – the big Japanese department store devoted to shopping. It’s called Takashimaya

It’s beautiful. And super expensive!

I checked out the bookshop, the stationary, clothes and spent time in the food hall.

The wrapping on the boxed goods is a work of art. Just beautiful.

I wandered through the lanes to get home including popping into Uniqlo. It’s the same …… but different! Lots of tourist style t shirts. I might be tempted!!!

After a shower and freshen up we made our way to Tominojo restaurant in the Gion area.

What a great fun night we had. It’s a shabu shabu style restaurant. The young staff on one side of the long counter provided a ‘show’ – the young Nepalese woman explained how it would operate. We chose the Kobe beef and the style of hot pot and away we went. It was delicious and fun.

This shows how the nest is sliced and celebrated!

And so ended another great day.

Except I did mention toilets.

They are amazing! Everyone I’ve been to in stations, restaurants, hotels, department store, temple , shrines ……. They are clean and functional and all have multiple buttons.

They even have a chair to sit your baby while you go. They have child’s seat hanging ready for use.

They all have a panel on the wall. You can wash front and back , choose the water pressure , then dry . Wow. You could spend a long time in there!

I did promise to tell you about them. If you have questions just pop them in the comments.

Temples, Shrines and Castles.

October 16, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / Leave a comment

A mix up with tour bookings led to the three couples going in different directions.

The Wilsons wandered locally , the McGregors did the Palace and Castle tour and Steve and I headed to two shrines

We caught the number 59 bus for lots of stops which gave us a good look at the suburbs our yo the east side of the city.

We started with Ryoanji temple. This is home to the most famous zen rock garden. It’s simple and it’s quiet and quite mesmerising.

Photo taken as a panorama shot. It’s rectangle garden.

This garden has sand which is raked meticulously. There are 15 rocks in the space.

We moved from this space into the gardens and loved the lake walk and the bamboo poles holding up the trees.

There are little corners with running water and statues of Buddha. I loved it.

We moved on to the Golden Temple. It’s probably the most famous of the temples here in Kyoto. Truely beautiful.

A quick taxi ride took us to the tour we were doing if the Imperial Palace and Castle. On arrival we found that the palace and gardens were closed as the Royal family were in town.

Our guide Jasmine was young and had the biggest eyes! And long blond hair well it really was black like all the other Japanese girls we’ve seen but she had dyed it blonde!

She broke the news that as it was closed we would instead go to the art gallery in the castle grounds.

We had a good tour of the castle and Jasmine explained the history of the shogans and their relationship to the Emperor.

The painted panels were beautiful especially the peony room.

We finished the evening with a tea ceremony. A young 19 year maiko explained her world as a trainee geisha. Very strange life in this day and age.

Fast Train to Kyoto

October 14, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 1 Comment

Travelling with 6 people we decided on 2 taxis for the trip down from the hills to Odawara Station to catch a Shinkansen train to Kyoto. It’s a fast train. In fact around 264 km – one was clicked in at as it sped through the station!

Stairs in the station painted with a mountain scene.

We arrived in plenty of time and had a coffee before going to the platform and joining an orderly line to board the train. A train guard was madly waving his flag at anyone who accidentally put their foot over the yellow safety line. – even with a fence before the track.

We bought first class seats and they were very spacious and comfortable for the 2.5 Hr trip.

Arriving in Kyoto was amazing. The station is huge but so well signposted. With a little help from our friend, Chat GPT, we got directions through the station to the bus platforms and got the city bus 7 to our hotel. We’re feeling very chuffed that we’re managing our travel so well. Jill is our organiser and has her phone at the ready to give directions and we, her minions are the eyes looking for the signs. It’s working well.

The hotel is the same chain as the one we used in Tokyo but not quite as good. But after I ‘nested’ / unpacked and got organised it’s working well. It’s certainly in a good position. Not far from the famous Nishiki market and also just near the canal and river crossing to Gion.

We had a quick lunch and split up. Steve & Chris headed to the Train Museum and museum of Kyoto, ( sadly they found it closed but lived the trains) Jill and I chose to wander the laneways and end up at Nishiki Markets and the McGregors wandered across the Kamagowa river to Gion area.

Jill and I had a great explore. As well as great shops along the way , we stopped at a shrine and a temple.

Prayers and blessing written in the fans

The shops were a buzz with shoppers and trendy looking young Japanese.

The next temple had a cemetery behind it.

Buried in the Cemetery is Izumi Shikibu who was described as the great woman poet of her time and the first chief priest of this temple.

“MY life is drawing to a close, I cannot longer stay,

A pleasant memory of thee

I fain would take away;

So visit me, I pray.”

Izumi Shikibu

Then into the markets with dozens of food stalls. All ready to cook something delicious for you. Meats, seafoods of all kinds , tempura,

I had to try something, so got a fruit stick with the finest layer of toffee over it.

A fish shaped soft pastry with custard inside. Yum!

I found an umbrella shop and bought a beautiful navy and white umbrella.

We bought socks, glass nail files, shoe laces , and tasted some great honey cordial.

No I didn’t try this …. But would like to

After changing we walked across the river looking for a roof top bar but were disappointed to find it closed. We settled on a glass of wine in a small bar and a cheap and cheerful bowl of ramen for dinner.

We walked home in light drizzle through a trendy nightclub area and spotted my first geisha.

Loving Kyoto already!

Hakone circuit

October 14, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 1 Comment

Starting the day with a good breakfast is great. It keeps you going even though we weren’t walking much today. Today’s all about transport !

The free shuttle to Gora station had us first in line for the cable car. It headed up the hills behind the township of Gora.

Our driver was spic and span wearing white gloves and an important looking hat. It was smooth ride and delightful looking down at the trees. the autumn colours are starting to peek through.

Mt Fuji came into sight. We couldn’t believe the clear view we had when so many see it shrouded in cloud. I was a little disappointed it didn’t have a snowy peak depicted in almost every picture you see of it.

We changed to the rope way after a stop to view the quarry where sulphur mining was sending small clouds of sulphur upwards.

The ropeway took us down to Lake Ashi where we were boarding the curiously named Pirate boat. We paid $7 for first class which gave us a seat while we waited and access to the front of the boat.

Hakone is a pretty little lake side town with a few restaurants and craft shops. One in particular caught our eye.

Full of wood crafted items we all bought something. Steve bought a few bags of little wooden squares. He’s going to make a clock ! I bought the sweetest heart shaped broach.

Following lunch we caught a local bus using our Hakone free pass ( not free but at $71 gave us all the transport rides over 2 days ) Good value.

Back to the hotel on the local bus wound us up through the densely treed forest. Even their buses are efficient, clean and quiet. They signs are polite and observed.

Our loop of attractions was covered easily as we had few queues to hold us up. So lots of time to relax at the hotel.

Another bath in our private onsen on the verandah before a pre dinner cocktail before dinner rounded out a great day.

Heading to Hakone

October 12, 2025October 12, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 3 Comments

Travel in Japan is a treat. Things work! Everyone is polite and so helpful and their systems make sense.

We were able to take our bags down to the foyer this morning and have them measured and then forward them onto Kyoto where we arrive in two days. Paid in cash by the size. how fabulous.

We were able to travel to Shinjuku station in a maxi taxi with hand luggage holding our two days of clothes and toiletries. It makes travel easy.

We were on the Romance train for a 90 minute trip to Hakone where in a good day you can view Mt Fuji. We found our way through this giant of a station because the signs were simple to follow – lots of easy English signs everywhere.

I thought with a name like Romance we might have violins play us aboard. But no! It was the usual efficient lining up and boarding in an orderly manner. And no it wasn’t pink with red love hearts ♥️ but straightforward comfortable seats.

We left on the crack if 10! And glided out of Tokyo past the neat and tidy suburbs, with no graffiti tags to be seen. Just plenty of potted plants and tidy houses.

Arriving in Hakone Yamato was different. On to a more tourist type train, crowded, so we had no seat and swung from the hanging handles for nearly 40 minutes.

Not fun! Especially with no coffee.

Then into a local bus to our hotel.

We found reception after entering through an adjacent building which had an October beer festival starting.

Or rooms weren’t quite ready. It was only 1 PM. So we headed back to the beer feast and had lunch and a beer before walking down hill to the Harkone Open Air Art Museum What a gorgeous place.

Spread around a park like area of rolling slopes were the most amazing sculptures, a maze, separate small galleries featuring world famous sculptures, bronzes and even a gallery dedicated to the work of Picasso. He was one very busy artist with work in galleries world wide.

A free bus saved us from walking 19 mins uphill which gave us time to get to our very comfortable rooms and be ready to go to dinner at 5. Yes very early but we decided it suits us after big days and also gives plenty of time to relax in our lovely room with a private onsen on our verandah.

It seems we are encouraged to wear the traditional pyjamas to dinner. So just the girls embraced it. It took the decision of what to wear away and we felt fabulous.

Most people wore either the pjs or the yakata.

Dinner is included in the cost at our hotel the Hakone Kowakien Tenyu. It’s a buffet- but a beautifully presented one and we were given a private room to sit and enjoy.

After dinner we thought we were heading to our room but got distracted in the foyer.

There are machines with free ice creams. Drumsticks , icey blocks as well as biscuits, lollies teas and sparkling wine. Then a jazz band started so we sat and enjoyed the music with some of our group eating ice cream ( guess who) and some having a last drink.

Then the end if the day treat. A beautiful soak in the private onsen in the open air. It was gorgeous so I stayed in for at least an hour.

Now can hardly keep my eyes open to finish this blog. Excuse mistakes.

Day 3 Tokyo

October 11, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 4 Comments

An early start – 7am and in the train to our appointment at The Sumo wrestling. We booked a practice session starting at 8am.

Our guides Moana and Aya met us in a park nearby and explained the session to us.

It’s very formal. No talking or distracting the wrestlers. They are not the higher ranking wrestlers but are training with Master.

It as fascinating to watch the drills they practiced. It all happens within a small ring and each game can take just a minute! If they wrestle them out of the ring or onto the ground they win.

With the session over we had some question time and found out they have to train twice a day, do their own cooking and cleaning and the lower ranks don’t earn a lot of money! We learned some of the nuances of the sport.

Wrestlers here wear black loin clothes but strive to white – that means they are professional. They wore loin cloths in history as they couldn’t conceal weapons.

The throw salt in the ring before starting……. a ritual of respect and they stamp to scare off evil spirits. They grow their hair long to wear a top knot , can’t drive or wear normal street clothes. They eat twice a day and sleep after a meal to allow the weight to increase! Something I don’t want to do especially in this holiday!

They always finish with a prayer and then move around the circle in a line.

Play this video. I hope it works.

Lower ranked samurai cook lunch for the seniors after training

We walked back through the rain towards Tokyo tower but it was shrouded by clouds so we didn’t go up. Instead, we had bad coffee and delicious pastries!

Twenty minute walk later we arrived at the Senso-ji temple. It was super crowded. Not the experience of yesterday’s peaceful shrine.

What was fascinating was the number of people dressed in kimonos. Obviously Saturday is dress up day.

Deciding it was too crowded we made our way to the Samurai Ninja museum.

Spread over 4 floors we got to dress up, had a lesson in the history of samurai, learned to throw the shuriken – a star shaped weapon.

Samurai existed from the late 16th century until around 1867. They came from the upper classes. Woman were samurai ! They had different swords. but were quick and dangerous. It was a fascinating visit.

It was still raining so we walked through the covered lanes and side streets. Everyone was out today. Fashion is as big thing in Japan and many of the young girls were out to impress.

There were lots of food stalls. I’d like uk try a few of these food items. But another day !

Tokyo trains Get a workout

October 10, 2025October 10, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 5 Comments

We all passed out last night. After a great night sleep we were up doing our exercises and met in the reception at 9.

Off to TeamLab Borderless. There are two TeamLab Centres. We decided on this one and once again the underground got us there in great time. We ( particularly Jill) is great at google maps and can tell us how to enter the underground, which train, where to stand and most importantly how to get out of the station.

The area it’s in is like everything – spotless. There are women dressed like they are going to the office with sashes, and little white sticks for picking up rubbish. But what rubbish! The street are spotless.

We stowed our bags in lockers and entered TeamLab Borderless. What an immersive experience. A maze of rooms. Technology at its creative best. I loved getting lost, & feeling I’d lost perspective.

One of the best experiences was the tea ceremony. You pay a bit extra – the cost of a matcha tea ( or sorbet) then get ushered into a dark room with long tables seating 5 each side of a narrow galley. A lady with a cart emerged from behind a curtain and the tea ceremony began.

We were given a bowl and tea is poured and a light show begins on the top of the cup and spreads across the table. It continues until the tea has finished. Then goes black.

Finishing after an nearly two hours we stopped outside for a sweet treat

The bakeries here are exquisite.

We made our way to Toyosu Fish markets. They weren’t what I was expecting. Very modern buildings, clean as a whistle and I couldn’t even smell the fish!

But the food stalls and little restaurants offered wonderful food. We opted for a tempura style meal – though I had the seafood sashimi bowl. It was delicious!

I had to try the matcha ice cream after!

Matcha is huge here. Made from crushed up green tea leaves it has the health benefits of green tea.

Back on the train system we travelled across to the Meiji Shrine. One if the most famous shrines in Japan it is dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken. It’s set in vast gardens just near Shibuya.

The straw covered sake barrels at the entrance to the Shrine

It’s a special place. Quite spiritual and moving. Jill and I wrote prayers or blessings to be displayed and also chose a stick to give us access to a poetry drawer where a poem waited for us.

We walked back through the quiet forest gardens and made our way to the not so peaceful Shibuya Crossing. One of the most photographed traffic crossings in the world we found a great place to view it. We didn’t pay to get in. Just the cost of a drink saw us enter the viewing deck.