No Mafia.

July 1, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 4 Comments

Our day started with breakfast on the terrace

A short walk up Via Maquardo to Teatro Massimo to meet Hermes – our guide.

Hermes pointed out if we wanted to find out about art, churches and galleries then we were on the wrong tour.

He was here to walk us through the history of the Mafia.

He explained the reason he has made it a lifetime crusade. When he was 6, he remembers hearing the sounds of a huge bomb exploding on the motorway near his house. It was the bomb that killed the anti mafia judge Falcone and his wife.

It was after this happened that people began to object and say NO. Businesses targeted to pay Pizzo started to say no more payments will be made. It has grown. Shops show a sign to show they are not paying’pizzo’ or ‘protection ‘ money to the mafia.

Hermes led us to various sights and we sat – in the shade thankfully and listened to how the mafia operated with shops. the police, the church, politicians and how it has changed over the years. But still they exist.

A wall with pictures of those killed by the mafia.

We walked through the markets towards the courts.

We finished outside the fountain of shame. Called this because it has many nude statues. And either side of the fountain is a church and a convent. It was considered shameful for the nuns to have to look at the nude statues !

A visit to the nuns bakery for the best cannoli in town. They were huge. And I forgot to get a picture.

It was noon and hot so back to our hotel across the road for a cool down

At 2pm we hit the streets again. To visit the Royal Palace and the Palatine Chapel – another Roger 1 build when he conquered Sicily in 1130 something !

The Palace is used for Parliament sittings except when open to the public.

As usual lots of stairs to climb. but definitely worth it for the Chapel. It’s stunning with its mosaics

I discovered Elliot Erwitt. A photographer his exhibition was in the palace and is stunning.

Back down the Via to the cathedral which is very grand. Inside was a buzz of noise. All the locals were gathering ! Something was happening. The Franciscan friars were all strolling in looking hot.

Locals were greeting them and showering them with double kisses and holding little portable fans to their hot sweaty faces. Everyone else was fanning away. It was fascinating to watch.

Back to our room to freshen up. We were having mother Marion and her daughters Grace and Celia meet us on our terrace for drinks.

They were on the swim trek and we saw them here yesterday and arranged a drink.

The day still wasn’t over !

After drinks and grazing plates Steve and I left for Teatro Massimo. We wanted to see their opera theatre and found a concert. Opera favourites. Starting at 9pm it was late for us!

Entering the stalls of the Teatro Massimo

The baritone and soprano were young and great.

We walked home at around 10.30 exhausted. And the city was coming alive!

Palermo : I Like You

June 30, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 2 Comments

Travel is so easy these days with phones holding tickets, maps, advice, hotel bookings. Everything you need is saved online.

We had a eSIM in England but here we’ve managed with Wifi with the odd day on Telstra.

The bus into Palermo was about 2, hours from the ferry at Trapani. It was a very hot day so the good air con was welcome.

The bus stopped at Via Vittorio Emanuel and 5 minutes walk we were in our hotel.

I was very pleased with this one. A lift! is a win , a big cool room and bathroom. 4th floor and the loveliest young woman on reception.

Steps outside the hotel is …… everything. We are just a few steps to the corner Quattro Canti at the end of via Maqueda which is the restaurant, cafe bar street and leads everywhere.

Leaving out bags we headed out for a slow walk. It was hot but walking on the shade side was good. A nice breeze came up from the port and we wandered past Palazzos which in their day must have been amazing.

Now they are home to multiple apartments and BnB’s though it easy to see how grand they would be.

Three hours walking led us to an afternoon in the cool before heading to our roof to for an evening Aperol before our passaggiatti

The roof top bar is like an oasis above the noise of the street below. In need of a secondi – a plate of something other than antipasto we headed out into the street walking past the buskers, the street food vendors , the aperol mobile carts, the few rough sleepers, teenage groups of Ragazzi , people sucking on vapes, groups drinking vino outside restaurants waiting to get in

Palermo is a surprisingly lovely city. It has its edge. It’s busy, but quite clean. Magnificent buildings

We’ll find out more about its ‘ underbelly ‘ tomorrow on the No Mafia tour

Last Swim Days

June 30, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 4 Comments

Guila smearing me with Vasalino for the last time…..to prevent swimmers rash!

Oh I’m so behind in my blogs. I’ve been in Palermo for 2 days and I’m still back in Favingnana ! Well the blog is.

The last day swimming was once again without our dear Francesco.

He would hate being sick and missing out.

The last swims were different and perfect.

The swimmers have relaxed and all chatting more.

In the evening we’re having a farewell dinner at Eduardo’s brother’s restaurant. It’s all about family here in Italy.

Eduardo has been lots of fun. He has told us all about his girlfriends but now declares his true love is Guila. It’s become a funny ongoing joke.

Francesco has asked us all to send him a few words about swimming and the sea. Something that shows our feelings for it. he has a game for us.

Everyone dressed up a but – island style for the last dinner together. We shared taxis and drove along the island to Giuseppe’s restaurant. It’s a big area. All outdoor tables facing the bay and the setting sun. A beautiful simple setting.

The fun begins with Aperols and continues with more Aperol or a Grillo ( a lovely light white wine)

The food is shared grazing plates and is simple but beautiful.

Photos are taken memories made.

We’ve known Francesco for 11 years so are so pleased he’s made the dinner so we can say farewell. This could be our last swim trek.

After dinner Francesco and Guila say a few words of farewell and start to give out the certificates. But on the back there is a quote written by one of the group. We have to guess who wrote it.

I read one out. It was a Haiku and I guessed Colleen. Later in the evening it was Colleen’s turn ( Dora the explorer) she read out the words. It was a Haiku! Mine. She guessed straight away. So funny we hit each others. Steve and her husband also got each others. They were both the shortest quotes.

Mine said

Swimming in the sea Blue water beautiful fish Gives me calm and peace

Steve’s: Adoro I’ll mare

Lots of photos. Lots of hugs. It was all over.

A Beautiful Swim at Marettimo:

June 29, 2025June 29, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 4 Comments

Today we met at the ferry terminal. We were catching the ferry to Marettimo.

The islands we visited off the coast of Sicily.

Marettimo has the reputation for beautiful waters, national parks. No cars, white buildings with blue shutters and very friendly people.

It takes about half and hour on the ferry and the first sight gives the impression of landing in Greece. It is actually quite close to Tunisia and our watches will switch to their time.

Today Francesco our guide is sick. Guila reported that he was up most of the night with vomiting and diarrhea. A virus.

Poor Guila is sharing a small apartment with him so let’s hope she doesn’t get it. Or us!

We arrived at the north port and walked through the small village to the south port. Where the boats are moved to when the winds blow.

Today is perfect for swimming.

The town is very traditional. White houses, blue shutters, ( except one house has brown?) terracotta downpipes, and tiles on the wall outside each house announcing who lives there.

We stopped at this house.

Off we headed with Peppo and Nico

They found the perfect spot for our morning swim. We swam into caves, over beautiful fish , red starfish. It was beautiful. No hurrying.

We had Colleen and Dana our American friends with us. Colleen is like Dora the explorer. She stops and looks at everything. And she’s a geologist and expert I’d say in water quality. It was so much fun swimming with her. the 3.5 km went by in a flash.

Lunch by the boys mother was good. But not as great as Eduardo’s mum!

Guila , our guide cooed so well as the only guide. With Francesco sick she was on her own to supervise us. Lucky conditions were perfect.

The second swim of about 2km and again just perfect.

My swim group. Colleen ‘Dora the explorer’

For me the swimming is near perfect. No stingers, warm enough, no currents, no leaking goggles.

Back to the small township we wandered the small streets with little shops selling the usual souvenirs. It’s so colourful. It’s hard to resist.

Marion and her two daughters were great company.

A Sicilian favourite: brioche filled with gelato. No I didn’t try one!

Swim Trek :Day2

June 24, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 3 Comments

Another slow start. Breakfast at 8 , walk to the harbour and away.

In the crystal waters by 10.30 we had to swim the coast – in and out of the little bays , past people sitting on little beaches or playing in the water. They must wonder what in earth we are doing.

We had a great swim along the coast. Sticking together our group of four Beth, from Sydney, Kaz from San Francisco, Steve and I form a good team. Poor Kaz swam with no fins and struggled to keep up, so tomorrow she’ll definitely wear her fins!

Great little movie if our swim.

We ended up swimming 4 km. I felt pretty good though do get leg cramps. In cool water. It’s about 21 in.

We had another salad lunch. This one a big rice salad, meat, cheese and bread.

We swam around an island in the afternoon. About 1.5km. Short! Because this morning was so long.

The group are bonding.

We stopped for a beer and delicious icey granite on the way back.

Poor Jen tripped before the swims began and had to miss a day.
Big cut on her head.

A little washing a little rest and dinner.

Once again we had dinner by ourselves. So strange for a swim trek not to be eating together. Never mind. I was so tired we had a delicious tuna salad and we ready for bed by 9.

A big day tomorrow. An island to island crossing.

Snapshots of Trapani

June 22, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 6 Comments

Lots of smokers sitting in bars

Ancient buildings

Stone staircases with many flights of stairs

Narrow streets

History around every corner

Smelly drains

Fewer thin Italians than years ago

More tattooed Italians

Love their mobile phones

Constantly on their phones shouting for all to hear

Welcoming polite people

Bus drivers don’t worry about tickets. They wave you on board

Not too many beggars on the streets

Bars give complimentary chips and nuts

Dogs are loved. Even barkers!

Children also loved and indulged

Waiters tend to be middle aged men – not young students

Toilets are often downstairs

Basic Italian accepted

Aperol spritz is still the drink of choice

Sunsets are amazing

Far less rules compared to Aus

The water is a startling blue

Lots of motor scooters

Italians chat a lot

Very loudly

Many sunburned people

Lots of little cars. No big 4W drives

Italians don’t wear sun hats

The beaches are full of people standing and walking. Not swimming

Some beaches are free others are private so you pay for a chair and more for an umbrella ☂️

Lots of little stalls set up selling hats and bags and jewellery

Different breakfasts. Lots of carb

The statues used in the religious parade at Easter.

Italia : Finally back to visit

June 20, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 5 Comments

Flying into Turin or Torino, its Italian name was easy. A bus from there airport to our hotel right near the train station.

Our hotel the Star majestic was one of the best in terms of facilities.

Hunger got to us. An hour late arriving it was nearly 9pm very late for eating. But we found a good salad nicoise and muscles for Steve.

A walk in the morning for Steve taking photos of the grand buildings and then onto the train. A long journey to Lerici. I’ve stayed with niece Berti several times before and love the town of Lerici. They live back from the coast in the hills with beautiful views. We’re staying in their little Airbnb with lots of little steps up to the top bedroom which has wonderful views.

A little corner in Cerri my niece’s village

We had a lovely catch up over dinner and planned the next few days The next morning the wind came up but Fabio decided we’d still go out on his new boat. He was keen to show us.

Down to the not so little Marina with around 1000 boats of various sizes tied up.

We got onto the boat. It’s new and comfortable and headed out across the Golfe de Poeti.

Passing PortdeVenere, I love looking at the church right on the point. I visited it with Pip my Sydney niece when we visited 24 years ago.

We headed down the coast towards the five little Cinqueterre villages pulling in to a protected cove with a little waterfall and an old building which turned out to be the train line. While we were there several trains passed very close to the edge of the cliff.

We had lunch and a lovely refreshing swim before heading back as the wind came up.

Fabio has a new pizza oven and that night we sat under the pergola and made our own pizzas.

Fabio had made the pizza dough. It was a lovely relaxing chatty evening. We planned the next days activities.

Fabio making his pizza with zucchini flowers

Steve and I decided to go down to Lerici as Berti had to work. She’s a teacher but does holiday activities with the children as part of her contract.

We caught the local bus down and it takes you on a little tour of some of the other little villages nearby.

We arrived at Lerici and took a nice walk along the waterfront. Watching about 8 little boys getting ready for their sailing lesson as part of vacation care!

Steve went up to the castle which brings back a lot of memories for me as my friend Pat and I had a week in a little Airbnb up behind the castle. It was quite a few years ago but I remember like it was yesterday.

Steve went up the art show in the castle. A modern version of the last supper.

We checked out a few little shops nearby and found one cranky Ligurian man who pushed us out of his shop because we didn’t want to buy anything. It was almost siesta closing time. He must have been ‘hangry’.

Cleo caught the bus down and met for lunch. She’s 15 now and a lovely young woman. Very interesting, studies hard, likes school and is such a great mix of her Australian mother and Italian father.

Berti picked us up and we went home and had a relaxing afternoon. Their little village is extremely small so there’s really no where to walk to within the village except up-and-down the little winding steep laneways.

Fabio decided to cook and sitting on the terrace in their lovely garden eating asparagus risotto with chilled wine made it very special.

Berti had suggested an activity for tonight. Going to her choir. At 9.15! So late. That is almost bedtime but not in Italy.

It’s a group of village ladies – 5 and 1 man. But 2 could come tonight so I made up the numbers.

They were lovely. So welcoming. First off was a chat – about their children. Then Bertie who is the unofficial choir organiser started up the music. They have several Italian songs and 2 English ones. They claim it helps their English.

After being at my choir concerts in England it was lovely singing with these ladies in their tiny Italian choir. I hope word spreads and it grows.

Back up the marble steps for a good nights sleep. Bertie informed us the water is going off at 8.30 for work being done in the laneway.

And tomorrow we leave this lovely little piece of Italy. I love my time here with niece Roberta – her official name. it was lucky Fabio was home. He’s usually away on his ship. He’s a ship engineer with a cruise line and spends months away.

An English Garden Party : Sunday 15th

June 18, 2025June 18, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / Leave a comment

Back in Rusper our friends have hosted an open garden for the village church.

And today our last day we are dressing in our garden party clothes and drinking G& T in the garden.

The weather is beautiful….. English style. Started out grey and cleared to blue skies by the middle of the day.

The guests arrived. Some walked from the village. Some drove from as far as London just over an hour away.

We had an hour and a half before we scrambled up the airport.

Gatwick is like all big airports. Lots of people and long walks up the gate. Ours was a good ten minutes of constant walking.

Then the theatre began. An announcement telling us boarding was delayed. That we had a full flight and there wouldn’t be room in overhead lockers for all the carry on bags. They offered free under plane storage and early boarding if people volunteered to check in their bags.

3 people came forward. Then a rather forceful lady started walking around the gathering line of people pulling out some and asking them to put their bags in the size measuring contraption.

It was actually quite funny watching grown men and women trying to cram oversized bags into the frame. If they didn’t fit they went to one side. Check in!

A women sitting near us tried to hide her rather heavy looking bag, a big back pack and handbag. She did it and later boarded!

We then sat on the tarmac waiting for take off. An hour later we did.

Arriving into Turin it was still light so we dropped our bags and headed out for a late dinner. Another salad Nicoise for me.

Next morning a long train ride up Lerici. We’re staying with our niece for 3 nights.

I love Lerici.

Cute Cotswolds

June 17, 2025June 17, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 4 Comments

An early start for Ros and David who left Bath for St Ives.

Steve and I sorted our bags and cleared the apartment and were on the road by 9

The next few days we are wandering the Cotswolds. People love this area. There are always debates about which is the cutest villages.

I will run my own survey !

First up Castle Combe. A very small village, it was quiet apart from a few meandering tourists.

This tiny village was used in the movie War Horse and there was a display about this in the local church

I’d heard about Painswick from two people. One was a lecturer in my arts group who lectured for ArtsNational last year. She lives there and recommended a visit.

The second is one of the therapy girls, Donna whose rugby-0playing son played the the region and lived in Painswick.

It’s beautiful. The Main Street is narrow with some lovely shops. The side streets have beautiful houses, an arts centre with a good cafe, a church in a large park with lines of trees. Donna told me 99 trees were planted there.

The local cafe in the arts canteen was buzzing. Lots of lovely local ladies meeting for coffee and lunch. They chatted in what to me sounded like posh English accents and were dressed very ladylike.

The Painswick hotel was recommended for afternoon tea…… and is as lovely as it looked – but we had cute villages to see.

Next stop Nailsworth. A lovely Main Street.

Studeley Castle and Gardens sounded great so we drove down narrow lanes to get there only to find out it was closed. We’ll have to come back.

It was time for Stow on the Wold. Our room for two nights is in The Porch – reported to be the oldest inn in England. Well I’m not sure if that fact, but it’s old. Up and down steps, low doorways, beams, old lights, dark common rooms but very comfortable rooms. Ours overlooked the small park opposite.

We walked up the Main Street to the town square. Beautiful old honey coloured buildings. Lots of city shops, including a 3 story antique shop. So much in there. So well organised! My friend Ginetta would love it.

Steve heading for the antique centre. And the car.

I found the town library. Modern looking inside a very old building. I think this village might be right up there with the best of the Cotswolds. Certainly consider this as a base for exploring the area.

The gardens of the Cotswolds are renowned. Mondays most are closed so we missed the famous Rococo gardens in Painswick and Studeley. Today we stoped at the old market town of Burton and bought a few things. And headed for Bourton Gardens.

The beautiful house was closed to the public but the gardens are open

The house and a small section of the garden.

We loved it. The white garden was stunning, and the way the garden was laid out was fascinating.

Another thing that is common to many UK gardens is the over planting. In Australia we tend to plant more sparingly. Here it almost looks crowded.

Nearby was the railway museum. Naturally Steve wanted to visit there. By luck the old steam train was about to leave.

Finally got to Studeley house and gardens. It was important during the reign of Henry V111 and is now maintained by the present owner and its priority is living in harmony with the animals of the world. Hence the elephants in the gardens

Our second day of wandering the Cotswolds took us up to Broadway – probably one of the best for a base with it’s lovely pubs, restaurants, shops etc. – very pretty place. It was hosting an arts festival when we were there. Lots of painters in the streets.

Then Bourton Upon Water. Again soooo pretty but suffering a little from tourists so losing its small village feel

Burford a lovely medieval village. Chipping Norton home to the car man …… Jeremy Clarkson.

Then into Oxford. Very grand buildings, very crowded. Full of students flying around in their gowns. It’s exam time and they must wear their gown with a flower on the lapel.

I went to an Art Society lecture at Magdalen College. Similar to my ArtsNational lectures. It was great meeting people from Oxford who follow the arts.

And our final morning was spent at the lovely Oxford Botanical Gardens. A very interesting garden with an excellent’Plants as medicine ‘ section. Well labelled. And a literary section

The literary table. You are invited to sit , reflect and write something. A lovely idea.

At the end of the day a beautiful lunch in a small village pub on our way back to Bill and Marie France in Rusper.

Bristol

June 13, 2025June 13, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 2 Comments

The choir travelled today. On the bus by 9 we left in drizzly rain. We are supposed to be doing several pop up performances but if it rains there will be no audience.

First stop was for a Bansky street art ! A busy artist his work pops up everywhere.

Off to the Clifton suspension bridge. The hardy climbers went down 130 steps to a cave to view the bridge from a different angle. But I was happy up top.

We lined up along the wall and did two songs for a small but appreciative audience!

Back on the bus to the centre of Bristol and another bit of Banksy street art

We walked towards the river and set up for a pop up concert but it rained. So along the wharf for lunch and a wine.

We tried again after lunch and succeeded.

The highlight of the day was going to St Stephen’s Cathedral. we had been invited uk join a local choir for a concert in the cathedral.

They made us so welcome. their musical director. Beth is from Brisbane but living in Bristol. Our Musical Dircector Jac is from this area but lives in Brisbane.

They made contact and set up this joint concert.

We rehearsed the song we were to sing together ‘What the World Needs Now’ It sounds great. And the choir. – all women were so friendly.

Each one of us received a hand written post card from one of the choir. What a thoughtful thing to do.

We also were treated to a cream sherry. Delicious and were told it is medical. Good for singers throat.

The concert started and we sat in the church and listened.

They sang about 5 songs. Then our turn.

The acoustics in the church were beautiful. I’m sure it enhanced our singing.

We finished with our joint song. What a great experience. I think this will be a highlight of our tour.

Back on to the bus to Bath and a few photo opportunities. The Royal Crescent is as i remember from 1976. Very elegant. Though the grass was under construction. A Robbie Williams concert is coming up so they were constructing the stage.

We walked as a raggedy group towards the city centre. Passing the Jane Austen Centre. It’s the 250th Anniversary for Jane and there are special celebrations everywhere

A group of girls emerged all dressed in period costumes which is a better sight than some of the hens groups we have seen around Brighton and now Bath.

Some outrageous and sometimes tacky dress ups have been spotted!

It was more Gin o’ clock so we found a great gin bar and tried a few of the gin combinations. We paid for 1 but after awhile the waitress appeared with a trio of different gins and a bottle of tonic.

Yes please we all said!

A delicious rhubarb gin with ginger ale!

A slow walk through town to meet David and Steve.

Fell into bed exhausted.

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