Amish Country to Chicago

Two very different places and outlooks on life.

I’ve combined two days into one in this post. So much is happening!

The Amish countryside is peaceful , quiet like stepping back in time to a simpler life.

The countryside is a rich farming area and the farms predominantly owned and run by the Amish people are beautifully kept.

The towns in this area worth exploring are Berlin, Charm, Walnut Creek, as well as pottering up and down the much smaller roads reviewing the farms.

Everywhere you will see the buggies being driven by mum or dad. Mum in the traditional head piece and simple plain fabric dress. Bearded Dad is in work pants, braces and a straight brimmed hat.

Today I wore my simple grey dress and if I’d added the headpiece I would have almost fitted in. No makeup. Simple hairstyle.

There is a lot of corn growing here and it’s the sweetest corn ever.

We went into Berlin and found barns full of furniture rustic in style and made by the Amish people. Also all manner of bibs and bobs. lots of flower stalls and fruit stalls and as Thanksgiving is approaching, pumpkins everywhere.

Driving along you must be patient as you’ll often find yourself behind a buggy. Also cycles are now popular – ones with electric motors to get them up and down the undulating hills.

We stopped in Charm for a few things at their general store where we were served by the loveliest Amish girls. They have the best sweet peaches here!

In the afternoon we arrived in Millersberg. Once again the County Courthouse dominated the centre of town right at its only set of lights.

We stayed in the Millersberg Hotel an oldy worldy place with a baby grand in the parlour, carpet runners and an enormous bedroom with two double beds and a huge bathroom.

Steve caught up on his washing. Travelling makes it hard to wash clothes. We washed everything at Lynn’s in NY and I wash little bits every night. But all the space meant washing and hanging to almost dry in the morning and final drying in the car.

Dinner was Mexican ! Strange but great choice. I had a margarita as big as my head and Steve a thirst quenching beer. We felt bad because other people sitting around us in the restaurant were Amish and they had water.

As you can see from photos I’m wearing my black white checked dress a lot. It’s perfect for the climate along with my plain grey Amish dress. In Scotland I wore jeans and black pants with a light jumper / shirt/ puffer. Here’s it’s warm not really hot. Perfect touring weather.

When we left this beautiful area early the next morning it was misty and cloudy and again the countryside looked prosperous.

We detoured on the way into Chicago. We stopped to look at Notre Dame University. What a campus it is.

Centre piece at Notre Dame
The Mosaic at the Library at this Catholic University

Our sat nav , which is great, confused us a few times. The lady started with the directions then said ‘ I’m sorry …… I’ll start again’.

Not once but on two separate occasions. So funny.

We made it to Chicago through a freeway traffic jam. Our hotel is in a great location.

After checking in we took off to explore and a train ride to an area north. We were visiting The Green Mile. A jazz club recommended to us. On the way we tried Thai Street food. Very good.

The club was funny. One cranky sullen door man collecting the $10 cover charge with no smile. No welcome and no information about what we would see.

It was jazz swing night. A very good 12 piece band and some good singers. Some great old favourites and they encouraged dancing. I love watching the dancers. They are usually a bit older and obviously practice at home. There were locals there. They knew each other and were dancing together. Great fun but it got very crowded so decided to leave around 9.40. Early by jazz club standards !

We had a full day of sightseeing planned !

We headed out to Oak Park. We’d booked a tour of Frank Lloyd Wright’s own house and studio. The tour given by Patti was great. I’m loving all the FLW architecture. Prairie style it’s called.

A huge gable dominates the front of the house

The house is so unusual. Attention to detail and lots of rooms within rooms to house his 6 children.

The main bedroom.
Windows in the children’s playroom.
The bathroom with a window angled for privacy.

His studio was equally spare. He was the Marie Kondo of his time. No clutter everything especial designed and loved.

We then walked Forest St with 9 FLW houses. They are very different to the style of the other houses in the street. They too are beautiful but suddenly look rather fussy when next to a FLW design.

FLW Prairie style
Typical of the other houses in the street l. Which do you prefer?

We walked to Oak Garden Station. if you are going to see FLW architecture it is a long way out. And check the right train. Several stations have the same name. Get to Oak Park Garden on the Green line.

Back to downtown we caught the above ground loop train which gives great views of the city streets.

The loop train sits above the streets.

We got off to see the art gallery and to walk in the gardens. Particularly the Millennium garden with the famous Bean which reflects the buildings around it. Only problem ….. it’s being renovated and was fenced off

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A picture through the fence.

We enjoyed an hour and half in the late afternoon sun in a First Lady Architecture tour. It was great. The boat we chose has architecture people give commentary. Our lady was perfect. Other boats seem to have brief commentary but this gave an excellent overview of the buildings and the history of architecture in this great city.

I’ll do a separate post in the buildings.

We finished the cruise just out in the mouth of the river at Lake Michigan as the sun was setting. It was stunning.

We walked a little after the cruise before getting the metro up town to Kingston Mines- a blues club. We had a great night eating, drinking, singing and soaking up the atmosphere in this blues club. We were in the Fullerton area another lively neighbourhood.

New York you never disappoint.

I just love NY. Even though this trip is short …. It is still sweet.

I do miss not having Jordan & Rob here. We had such great visits with them when they lived here. We usually stayed near them in West Village.

This time we stayed mid-town. It was close to our Avis car drop off. And close to our friends.

View of the Chrysler building from our hotel room.

It was so wonderful to catch up with my Brisbane therapy friend Sharyn ( therapy as in a group of girls who catch up a lot ) She recently moved here to be near her daughter and especially her first grandchild

We met at Grand Central station. This is a beautiful station. The spaces are grand, it’s like stepping back in time. Built between 1903-1913 there are 56 passenger tracks. Built in the Beaux Arts style you could think you were in France – until you spot the eagle on the clock. There are cafes, wine bars, an oyster bar, shops if all kinds, a whispering corner, and of course trains.

We chatted for ages and even visited the ‘whispering corner’. It’s a trick of building and sound! You stand in opposite corners of a wide corridor and turn your back and whisper. The other person can hear you. Works like magic.

When we finally left – Sharyn to work & Steve to shopping & finding the best Reuben sandwich, I explored the station.

Then I walked and walked which is what you do in NY. Not to Central Park. I headed south.

I browsed shops and book shops. I bought nothing ! It’s not sales time and we can get everything in Australia now. And I haven’t got too much room in my suitcase. Justify. Justify.

I love the food trucks on each corner. Never short of a place to eat in NYC.

I was hot from walking so headed to my happy place. The NY public library. Outside there are tables and chairs set under the trees. I bought a cool drink and sat and people watched. Always interesting.

A little photo shoot on the steps.

I visited the library, wandering and sitting. And of course visited the shop. I bought another book to share with Ollie , Leo & Alby. I’ve a little collection from places we’ve been.

Back to our very big room for a rest just before a rain storm. With thunder & Lightning. The full show!

Fortunately, it stopped and we left to walk the 10 blocks to our friend Lynn’s stunning apartment on the river near the UN.

We were meeting up with Bill and Marie-France, who we’d met up with in Edinburgh. They made the effort of cruising on the Queen Mary to NY so we could all have dinner. Such a sacrifice! Thanks Bill & MF.

Also joining us were James & Aline – whom we met at Lynn’s beach house. Great company and they lowered the average age!

Starting with a drink we moved on after the rain to Patroon a really lovely NY restaurant. Great food. Great service.

Marie-France, James, me, Bill, Lynn, Steve & Aline

New York I still love you.

NYC 🍎.

The second part of our holiday begins. We were a little delayed out of Frankfurt but it was all good in the end.

Lufthansa was comfortable to fly with. The seats smaller than Qantas and Singapore business but comfortable.

I love observing my fellow passengers. The couple opposite did not stop talking except when kissing , holding hands, touching and when everyone was settling for a nap she disappeared. I thought a toilet break but no she had climbed onto his seat? In a very short white skirt. I’m not really sure what happened after that as I put my sleep mask on!

A glimpse of the seats and the skirt.

We arrived into NY JFK airport. It’s never easy travelling into the US. Customs is extremely slow.

We got off the plane – me with my crutch and swollen knee to be confronted with a huge queue. I’m not underestimating the 600 or so crowd of ‘Others’ – the US citizens went one aisle & the others in a long queue.

I stood for awhile until a staff person saw me swaying on my crutch and took me to the front and a special quick lane. Thank goodness. I would have been standing for at least 2 hrs.

There were 5 customs officers each taking at least 7 mins to process each entry.

We still waited for about 15 mins to get to the top of the 2 person queue.

Then a wait for luggage. Then a 5 min walk to a bus. A 10 min bus ride to an air train. A few mins in the train and finally to the hire car place.

We landed at 1.30. We were on the road to the Hamptons on a Friday afternoon by 2.50 and reached East Hampton and our friend Lynn at 6.30. Phew.

Lynn is a friend made on our swim trek to Galapagos about 7 years ago. She, her sister Lois and five other friends often zoom with us and we meet up when we can. It’s always fun.

Looking towards the courtyard designed by Lynn’s equally talented & gorgeous sister Lois.

This time it’s just us with Lynn, along with her lovely step son James and his fun wife Aline. They are such friendly couple who have just moved back to NYC after raising their two daughters in Connecticut. We are so fortunate to be having the weekend in Lynn’s fabulous house in the Hamptons.

We arrived in time for drinks and a delicious lobster meal. What a welcome.

The next day after a morning swim we took off for the beach and a bit of sightseeing in the area.

The closest beach is Georgica beach. Dolphins were playing off shore, the water was beautiful and the two young lifesavers really friendly.

We came up the Hamptons to Sag Harbour a few years ago with Rob & Jordan and Jordan’s parents Lisa & John. That weekend was great though it was cool and a bit rainy. This time it’s warm and sunny.

Main Beach East Hampton.

Lynn’s house is like a resort. I could stay for months. And Lynn is a warm generous host. Definitely a 🛌 🛌 🛌 stay. With a usb special plug next to the bed! Thanks Lynn.

Lunch was a fresh corn, avo, tomato, feta, & herb salad. Just what a weary traveller needs.

The afternoon was spent swimming, reading and preparing for dinner that night. Lynn had invited a few friends in for dinner.

Such an eclectic group. Alan an actor with several films under his belt, Brooke a retired Journalism professor, and author and Marilyn whose husband , Don Hewitt, now deceased had founded US tv show 60mins which was then produced as an Australian 60 minutes as well. Lynn, our friend was a journalist was on the ABC news magazine. And a nicer lady you could not meet.

We had a terrific night.

Today we talked about playing pickle ball, a new game which is taking over the US as a new sport. It was hot, we were tired from last night so spent time sitting around the pool relaxing.

Then it was time to head into NYC. The drive back was much better than the one going out. We found the hotel with no problems and found the room to be big and very comfortable. I had read the wifi was terrible. It’s not.

The Tuscany by Lux I’m giving you a 3 🛏️ 🛌 🛌

We were going to meet some friends but plans didn’t eventuate so we had a drink at Alberts Bar on 42rd St. and watched the last few games of the US Open.

Then dinner at a little Italian.

NYC 🍎.

The second part of our holiday begins. We were a little delayed out of Frankfurt but it was all good in the end.

Lufthansa was comfortable to fly with. The seats smaller than Qantas and Singapore business but comfortable.

I love observing my fellow passengers. The couple opposite did not stop talking except when kissing , holding hands, touching and when everyone was settling for a nap she disappeared. I thought a toilet break but no she had climbed onto his seat? In a very short white skirt. I’m not really sure what happened after that as I put my sleep mask on!

A glimpse of the seats and the skirt.

We arrived into NY JFK airport. It’s never easy travelling into the US. Customs is extremely slow.

We got off the plane – me with my crutch and swollen knee to be confronted with a huge queue. I’m not underestimating the 600 or so crowd of ‘Others’ – the US citizens went one aisle & the others in a long queue.

I stood for awhile until a staff person saw me swaying on my crutch and took me to the front and a special quick lane. Thank goodness. I would have been standing for at least 2 hrs.

There were 5 customs officers each taking at least 7 mins to process each entry.

We still waited for about 15 mins to get to the top of the 2 person queue.

Then a wait for luggage. Then a 5 min walk to a bus. A 10 min bus ride to an air train. A few mins in the train and finally to the hire car place.

We landed at 1.30. We were on the road to the Hamptons on a Friday afternoon by 2.50 and reached East Hampton and our friend Lynn at 6.30. Phew.

Lynn is a friend we met on our swim trek to Galapagos about 7 years ago. She, her sister Lois and five other friends often zoom with us and we meet up when we can. It’s always fun.

Looking towards the courtyard designed by Lynn’s equally talented & gorgeous sister Lois.

This time it’s just us with Lynn, along with her lovely cheeky step son James and his fun wife Aline. They are such a friendly couple who have just moved back to NYC after raising their two daughters in Connecticut. We are so fortunate to be having the weekend together in Lynn’s fabulous house in the Hamptons.

We arrived in time for drinks and a delicious lobster meal. What a welcome.

The next day after a morning swim we took off for the beach and a bit of sightseeing in the area.

If you look closely at my pictures you can see Lynn’s love of the African giraffe.

The closest beach is Georgica beach. Dolphins were playing off shore, the water was sparkling & beautiful and the two young lifesavers really friendly.

We came up the Hamptons to Sag Harbour a few years ago with Rob & Jordan and Jordan’s parents Lisa & John. That weekend was great though it was cool and a bit rainy. This time it’s warm and sunny.

Main Beach East Hampton.

Lynn’s house is like a resort. I could stay for months. And Lynn is a warm generous host. Definitely a 🛌 🛌 🛌 stay. With a usb special plug next to the bed! Thanks Lynn.

Lunch was a fresh corn, avo, tomato, feta, & herb salad. Just what a weary traveller needs.

The afternoon was spent swimming, reading and preparing for dinner that night. Lynn had invited a few friends in for dinner.

Such an eclectic group. Alan an actor with several films under his belt, Brooke a retired Journalism professor, and author and Marilyn whose husband , Don Hewitt, now deceased had founded US tv show 60mins which was then produced as an Australian 60 minutes as well. Lynn, our friend was a journalist was on the ABC news magazine. And a nicer lady you could not meet.

We had a terrific night.

Today we talked about playing pickle ball, a new game which is taking over the US as a new sport. It was hot, we were tired from last night so spent time sitting around the pool relaxing.

Then it was time to head into NYC. The drive back was much better than the one going out. We found the hotel with no problems and found the room to be big and very comfortable. I had heard the wifi was terrible. It’s not.

The Tuscany by Lux I’m giving you a 3 🛏️ 🛌 🛌

We were going to meet some friends but plans didn’t eventuate so we had a drink at Alberts Bar on 42rd St. and watched the last few games of the US Open.

Then dinner at a little Italian. Too bad we hadn’t organised with to meet James & Aline for dinner. They live quite close and are great company.

Last few days in Scotland.

We crossed on the 3 hour ferry from Lochboisidale to Mallaig

Mallaig is a lovely little town with lots of shops and cafes and a railway line that ends right in the centre of town.

The famous Jacobite train runs between here and Fort William and it would be great to fi it. We have trusty black hire car.

The viaduct

The drive to Fort William is magnificent. Seeing so many trees after being on fairly tree less Hebrides.

We stopped to view the viaduct – made quite famous through Harry Potter.

The afternoon light is beautiful.

View from our window

We arrived into Fort William and to our BnB Myrtle Bank. Run by a very friendly Dora the place is beautiful. Opposite the loch it’s a mass of flowers. Quite a standout amongst the other BnBs. Our room on the ground floor is big and beautiful. Dora is a character. During our several emails to secure a booking she said no credit card needed. She just took the booking and when we got there said we could pay by PayPal or cash.

Myrtle Bank BnB

We went for a walk through the town and chose somewhere for dinner.

Breakfast is as good as expected. And then we were away driving alongside the sparkling loch. We stopped at Glencoe which was much smaller than I thought. It has such a reputation for being the centre of the battles.

Continuing on, the area is so stunning. And the gorgeous weather certainly helps.

The land is so distinctive

Arriving at Stirling it is the castle and the William Wallace memorial that dominates the skyline. Sitting a top the hill the castle in imposing.

Stirling Castle

We took the audio guide self guided tour. These are so good these days. They bring history alive as you walk area the rooms of the castle. It is a very special Castle. It was added to over the years but it was the Mary of Guise the French wife of James V who made some significant changes.

Theres got to be an advantage to having a sore knee, and with my crutch which I only use now if we’re doing lots of walking on cobbles, I get special access to lifts to avoid all the stairs. Very helpful.

The William Wallace memorial

William Wallace was a knight and a leader in the first Scottish war of independence. he was nicknamed Braveheart.

We drive to St Andrews. famous for its golf courses and the fact Prince William went yo University there.

It’s a lovely lively student town fairly overrun this week with golfers. There’s a big tournament on.

The students were all wandering around looking handsome and wealthy. And we watched as quite a few headed down to one of the ocean pools for an afternoon dip. Very brave I’d say.

Conditions were beautiful if not a little cool

We continued on along the coast – it’s a great area for holidaying. There are lots of holiday parks. Little cottages all lined up. They do have caravan parks but they also have many little cabin type places.

Our hotel The Waterfront.

We arrived at Anstruther in the late afternoon when the sun was dipping before setting.

The little harbour is a gem.

The theme in these little coastal town is the decorated dog.

And ice cream shops. And after our fish ‘n chips dinner we had our first ice cream.

Outer Hebrides. Out of this World

We woke in our little attic apartment to wind blowing and rain beating. So a little sleep in !

It’s also Sunday so nothing much happens on a Sunday. We did not think of this too much when planning and booking. We probably should have. Nothing is open. Except our lovely old hotel.

So down time morning. A great Scottish breakfast. Followed by time in the lounge area looking into the garden drinking tea, reading and catching up on emails.

By 11am the conditions improved and we headed off. I love going off the beaten track so directed Steve off the main road as we headed south and went along the little road down near the waters edge.

It was peaceful. Not a car in sight. In fact I was hoping nothing happened to the car as no one was around to help. People were either at church , still in bed or watching the tv. Probably sport!

The water an extraordinary colour.
The landscape is moon like.
The beaches are beautiful

The beaches here are renowned for their beauty, colours, and remoteness. Even on a dull windy day it was a great colour ( hard to capture in a photo) a kind of milky blue. The wind surfers were having a ball

Exciting to watch.
Lots of little cabins for holiday makers.

We wanted coffee. Nothing open. Until….. we saw a sign. Followed it to the cutest little yurt style building. And it was super busy.

Door to the yurt coffee house
Best coffee stop

We had noticed quite a few roadside shops! Honesty cupboards or cabins. With a variety of home baking from the owners of the Croft houses nearby. Our favourite was the chocolate hut.

Jill, this is for you my friend.

We pottered and admired the scenery and eventually got to the ferry terminal to catch the ferry to the next island. The Hebrides are a chain of islands. Several need ferry crossings. This one needed an hour to cross.

We crossed from Harris to North Uist and found our accommodation The Fisherman’s Snug . Run by fisherman’s wife Anne it is a perfect little studio place. A separate lounge area. Big bathroom and comfy bed. We could have stayed a week. We keep saying that about places we are visiting.

Anne left the best welcome basket I’ve ever seen.

Help yourself the welcome sign said.

We went for dinner ( lobster!) to a local tavern / pub and met a few other characters. A bike rider from Edinburgh – he was a combination of funny, mad and manic. But entertaining. And a couple from outer London. We had fun!

Another great day.

Isle of Skye

We left Edinburgh by 9 and we’re heading north through places with familiar names.

Stopping in Perth we had to visit the Black Watch Museum. One of Scotland mist famous Highland regimens.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_Watch

We are in the land of highlands, tartans, clans, whiskies, castles and palaces.

Along the road there are signs pointing to the castles that each area seems to have. And if you’re a Highlanders fan and love Jamie you should come to this country.

We drove on towards the Isle of Skye through beautiful scenes of mountains , green fields , heather , trickling streams, lochs, but no Loch Ness monster, waterfalls and camper vans. There are lots here.

Had a little walk through the bush to find the waterfall.

Our first big castle was Eilean Donan castle on Kyle of Lochalsh. Before you cross over to Skye. It was getting late. Around 4.30 – we were able in for free. It’s a moody, dark castle in the most beautiful spot.

Guarding the castle door.

Walking around I like to imagine the people who lived here back in the 15thC. The life they had and here are we today with our cameras on iPhones walking the same ground.

We crossed the big bridge to Skye. This has made it easier to travel there leading to overcrowding. The number of small vans on the road is pretty amazing.

The island in ceramics

We booked at the Guesthouse in the first town over the bridge. Kyleakin. Our guest house is newly renovated and quite comfortable though I do wonder if owners ever actually stay in the rooms themselves. We rate it 2 🛌 🛌 Nicely fitted out room with a comfortable bed . But tiny bathroom, no toiletries, no shelf over the sink or in the shower. Breakfast was a tray in the room with packets of cereals , tea etc. not much really. It was really impersonal. All keyless no contact with owners only the sounds of other guests.

That night we treated ourselves to a special dinner at Kinloch Lodge. It’s a beautiful old house with bedrooms facing a large stretch of water and st sunset was magnificent.

The dinner was expensive but so delicious. Our waiter was from Terrigal in NSW Aus.

Such a beautiful setting at Kinloch Lodge

We’d heard there were loads of midges on Syke but I risked it and left the window open. It’s lovely weather and not as cool as I thought it would be. We’ve been lucky!

The Leith Water Walk

Saturday. The sun is shining. Everyone is out. Locals as well as tourists are making the most of this beautiful day. The festival officially ends this weekend so it’s a good chance to see things.

We chose to do a quiet activity. No loud musicals or street theatre. We caught the bus 26 to Roseburn Just a few km from the city centre. It’s a world away.

We got off the bus and crossed an old stone bridge which lead down the slope to the Water of Leith , a small creek which winds around the city to the port of Leith.

We started walking along a softly padded path under trees alongside the water. Immediately I felt relaxed and a million miles from the busy festival city.

There were Saturday joggers, lots of dog walkers and a few tourists like us.

We followed a few ducks as they splashed along and admired the luck of the people who lived on the opposite side of the water.

I was imagining being invited to a garden party in summer drinking a gin and listening to the splashing water.

Gin on the lawn anyone ?

It wasn’t long before we came to a bridge crossing the waterway then climbed about 80 steps to the Museum of Modern Art.

We arrived at it garden entrance. Set up with tables we stopped for coffee.

People sitting in the warming sun were locals with dogs : what a great place to walk to and meet friends.

Graduated paint colour as you walk down the hall.

We took the lift up to the gallery floors. A special exhibition was on. It was colourful and meaningful.

The main doors took us to the sculpture gardens and the main gates.

Crossing the road we arrived at the Modern 2. This was a school going back years. In fact I read a book where the school had a mention as some of the plot took place there! So I was ready for the beautiful building with the turrets.

Following the path down through the gardens we turned left through some iron gates and continued on the Leith Walk.

Around the next corner- a little waterfall.

The water meandered along coming to the very picturesque Dean Village.

Dean Village

Taking a break in a children’s playground we found another piece of history.

If you come to Edinburgh you really must do this walk. You can do a long version or this section.

We arrived at Stockbridge which was jumping.

It’s a little village with pubs, restaurants & cafe and yet another charity shop. I’ve noticed these charity shops everywhere . A bit like our St Vincent’s de Paul. But lots of different types of charities. With some great looking clothes and items in their windows. If you like vintage these shops are for you.

Approaching Stockbridge.

We rested our feet at Hectors with a beer and a fish cake for me and a pie for Steve. Not just any old pie. A pie that won an award. every pie seems to have won an award.

Did I say we love our apartment. It’s so handy to everything including buses to all parts of the city. So home we went for an hours rest before dinner with Bill & M-F at the Brassiere near us.

But first another bus ride and a laid back guitar player. Very cool.

Delicious prawns and a gin and we were off to Usher Hall again to hear Simon Bolivar.

This is a world renowned orchestra from Venezuela. And it’s a young orchestra. Aged up to 28.

They started with a piece composed by a Venezuelan Paul Desenne, a man who helped establish the orchestra.

The next was a composition by another Venezuelan Gonzalo Gray-who was in the orchestra and it featured the cuatro. This is like a small guitar.

Jorge Glem came on stage and had wonderful presence.

The conductor obviously knew him well and boy could he play. It was such a lively piece. The Venezuelan people in the audience were on their feet cheering. It was infectious.

The audience demanded an encore and he played the most amazing arrangement-based on a Viennese waltz which turned into a Venezuelan bear. Maracas were out. Feet are stamping. Fabulous.

After interval they played a more Mahler Symphony 1in D Major. Beautiful energy in the playing. And then the audience demanded more.

So they delivered. The musicians brought our their symbolic medals on a Venezuelan coloured ribbon hung them around their necks. And the rhythmic beats started. The drums, cymbals the hand clamping. The shouting, the standing , sitting. An in stage party!

The orchestra wearing their medals and ribbons

You couldn’t help smiling when it was all over. We met our friends again outside and said a fond farewell. For 2 weeks. We’ll be seeing them in NY for our Galapagos swim trek reunion.

Bills car with Steve & M-F squeezed in the back

Home to bed with feet still tapping !

From Musical to the best of Irish Comedy to the Tattoo.

There is so much on in this Festival city. Everywhere you walk someone puts a brochure in your hand.

One of the Irish comedians. It was F#^#%ing funny.

We went to The Best of Irish Comedy. In a basement with a bar, of course, and a very funny MC who reminded the people in the front row perhaps they should have chosen seats further back. Lots of ribbing for them.

There were three comedians. The first a young woman who was great – very funny.

The second, a young man, a bit of a storyteller in a very funny way.

The last act was a man with a stammer I thought he was pretending. But no, he had quite a stammer. Which became the theme of an ongoing joke. He was funny but I found it a bit excruciating. I kept wanting to give the words to him.

Deciding what to see is the problem. When we got the program a few months ago we were choosing blind! That is, we didn’t know anything about any of the Fringe shows.

We knew the Oslo Philharmonic, the Simon Bolivar Orchestra. But with the Fringe it’s pot luck. We booked a few winners and a few we should have left alone. Not that they were bad. They just weren’t us. It’s probably better to come and check out things here. There a much more to take in than looking in a programme!

Today we saw Big Fish. an American short musical. It had appeal, but for us in a crowded theatre we felt out of it for young people loud, music thumping and actors singing loudly. And the most uncomfortable seats!

We fitted a drink in on the roof terrace of Harvey Nicholls. Beautiful views. Nice gin.

Then off to the a Royal Mile. Across to the Old City.

Yes, the Tattoo. We were looking forward to this so much. There were so many people. But we managed to find a little Mexican (!) place for a quick bite. Then a slow walk up the Mile …..

It was very well organised. Thousands of people. They have little mobile bars set up in the Castle forecourt. So people were milling around. We made our way up to our seats. Nice & high so we could take everything in.

Then the show started. Bands of all kinds from Norway, Switzerland, USA, Scots College Sydney, Irish fling dancers, drummers and dancers from Trinidad, more Pipe bands, precision marching. And all the time projected colours and images into the castle walls.

Each year there is a theme. This year “Stories”. Unfortunately there was no commentary like you get on the tv version of the Tattoo. It would have been good to have someone tell you who was on. I was right as Steve knows about bands and which countries they were from. Our friends found the theme Stories hard to follow.

I tend to just go with the flow. And loved it. The whole experience. We chatted to the people around us. There was quite a party atmosphere. We had New Zealanders, Sydneysiders, English, Japanese.

The show finishes with all the performers on the forecourt. Marching , singing, dancing. And fireworks.

We made our way down from the Castle. It was so busy but orderly and friendly. And home by midnight! Poor Bill and M-F had a 40 minute drive to their little village outside of Edinburgh.

Shetland Islands. looking for ponies , otters, puffins and maybe Jimmy Perez

Our plane was an hour late arriving which put us behind. We hired a car from the airport and were sent to the car park to play ’ find the car’. Such a relaxed island way of hiring a car. Steve walked around clucking the car opener until we heard a beep.

We headed straight up the hill to Sumburgh lighthouse. It was super windy and the views were an indication of what as to follow as we explored this most northerly part of Great Britain.

The lighthouse museum explains the history of lighthouses. The hardship the early keepers endured and life for the families of the keeper. I loved the profile of a Lighthouse Keeper.

The attributes of a lighthouse keeper.
Flying into Sumburgh
View from the lighthouse. Very windy but not that cold!

It had an excellent marine section showing the birds found here. The puffins are a favour and everywhere you go there are pictures and little stuffed toys depicting the puffin. I got to hear the noises of the birds and the little puffin has a growling type call.

Part of the Marine display

We continued up the main road north and called into Sandwick with the idea of catching the little ferry across to Mousa a small island off the mainland. It is a bird life haven. Unfortunately we were running late because our plane was an hr behind and we missed the last ferry of the day. we’ll try again in Sunday.

We called into a jewellery shop on the arts and crafts trail. Karlin Anderson was born in the Shetlands but had spent a lot of her adult life in London. She does beautiful work which reflects life on the islands. Her lace work jewellery is exquisite.

If you can read this it tells the story behind her collection.

I might have ordered something from her!

Her workshop looks out to this view.

We had a bowl of soup at the Hoswick craft cafe and chatted to the lady in the shop They are such warm friendly people so open to questions about their life on the island.

Excited to see some Shetland ponies on our way to the sunny west coast of the island.

So cute.

Horses came over with the Norse settlers. They would have been bigger then but evolved with the conditions to be shorter study horses to cope with the conditions and the work load.

We detoured to visit St Ninians. It’s a spectacular beach which stretches from the mainland to a small island. The weather was perfect. Warm & sunny there were even people paddling in the crystal clear water.

Crystal clear waters of St Ninians.

Steve walked over to the island and I walked around the cove to explore the rocks. There are so few people around it makes it very special.

Stunning St Ninians.

The road north is much better than I anticipated and there was little traffic so it was an easy drive

We passed through Brae and decided as the weather was so good to head out the peninsula to the cliffs of Eshaness. The drive gave us the most spectacular scenery possible. We got to the lighthouse and looked North. The afternoon light bathed the coast in sunlight. Truly beautiful.

Magnificent coastal views
Rock formations off the coast
Eshaness coast.

Heading back to our accommodation we drive down to a little boat ramp used by local fishermen.

Arriving at Busta House was like stepping back in time. It’s old, steeped in history and had rooms refurbished. However, it has stayed. Big stone stairs down to an entrance then up two old staircases to our room named Papa Stour , one of the little islands nearby.

View from our bedroom at Busta House.

The room was comfortable, had a view out to a bay named Busta Voe. The new bathroom was tiny and definitely wasn’t for the feint hearted. The bath was so high it was like doing gymnastics to get get in! I counted at least 5 people staying at the house who used walking sticks so I don’t know how they managed. So it missed a 🛌🛌🛌 rating. Only a 🛌🛌. But a fairly high 2!

We had drinks in the sitting room before dinner. There were around 125 Gin and nearly 300 whiskey varieties to choose from. Dinner was nice fresh homely food- lamb for Steve , salmon for me with lovely fresh veggies.

A quiet 💤 night.