When Pete our son suggested we might like to go to Singapore, Legoland and Penang for a short holiday with him and his 5 year old son Ollie. Then bring Ollie home while he went into a wedding in the Philippines, I really want sure what to think.
Would it be too much? would I get Covid? would we all agree on a plan each day?
I decided it was a great chance to spend some time with 43 yr old Pete recently facing a broken relationship and his gorgeous 5 year old.
Over Christmas we booked. It was real. We talked hotels, adventures and food. Pete has always loved Asia and its food. He’s lived in Malaysia attending uni and Cambodia as a teacher. He’s adventurous and a foodie – in Asia.
We went to the airport at 8 for an 11am flight. why are airports – Brisbane in particular so expensive. The food is overpriced, general goods ridiculously overpriced. I only noticed this time as we weren’t in a lounge!
The 8 hour day flight was great. We had a row of 3 and Ollie is a great little traveller. We watched a movie or two and poor Ollie only had cheese and crackers. We forgot to order a child’s meal. But he was so happy just to be travelling he didn’t care!
We landed at 5.15 Singapore time. Two hours later than in Brisbane.
We got our bags and left for the train to get us to the city, passing a robot cleaning. Ollie loved it.
The train was quick and easy and we got to our hotel the Mercure Icon in Chinatown easily. Great little rooms side by side with a great view and a 4 min walk to the night hawker markets.
View from hotel room in the 17th floor. Olive in prawn heaven
We had a beer as it was very humid after some rain earlier in the day. Then satays. Chicken & prawns. Then dumplings. Then ice cream. We walked home tired but happy.
The sun was out this morning and spirits lifted. But not for long. By the time we had breakfast and made some food for Jo and Martyn it had started to rain.
Martyn stayed at the clinic with Jo last night. It’s not a hospital so no night staff, no bed sheets – everything disposable as there is no laundry. A nurse left her medication and when they returned in the morning her pain was extremely uncomfortable.
We sat chatting trying to lift her spirits but the medivac wasn’t able to arrive so Jo & Martyn were feeling a little stressed.
Lovely Pete, our boat man from yesterday and Amy, the very capable nurse called to see Jo and promised to bring them some dinner tonight.
Amy the nurse and Pete the boat skipper arrived with a fish curry
We packed up and headed for the ferry to get us to Home Island. We have 3 nights at the historic Clunies-Ross home Oceania House built in 1893 built by the grandson of the original Scottish settler John who arrived in 1827after the islands were discovered by William Keeling in 1609.
The crossing took 30 mins. ( it would have taken the boys about 4 hrs to swim!) It was calm though rainy. Not like yesterday with waves that caused the boat to pitch up and down.
Looking from the wharf to where we set out yesterday!
Gary, the house caretaker met us and gave us a short tour of the island. It’s very different to West is. There are more people here and the houses are very different. It’s a Muslim community so there is a call to prayer sounded five times a day. And there is no alcohol.
We drive through the wet streets- some closed due to flooding! Gary pointed out the attractions and the best places to swim. His wife Paula met us on arrival at the house and explained a little about how it’s run. There are 6 bedrooms 3 with ensuites the other 3 share 2 bathrooms. Ours – the Daphne room is large with old world furniture and a view of the garden.
The lovely bedroom with a bathroom 70’s style! But functional.
Shared kitchen
There is a shared kitchen where you can keep your food and cook your meals. Or you can ask for a home cooked meal – they have a few Malay people who cook curries. We did that for tonight.
We unpacked and had a drink in our lovely room before going down for our curry. We shared the table with two other two couples.
Bruce and Natsuko from Perth and Wolf and Marion from Germany. The German couple in their late 70’s and 80 something are staying a month.
We had a little look around the house but are doing a tour with Gary tomorrow. He has all the historical details for us.
We miss our friends so much. Wish they were here enjoying this lovely old house. They are still stuck in the clinic wondering what’s going on. We’re all very worried for Jo.
Tomorrow we plan to go for a swim at a nearby beach. Even in the rain they said it’s beautiful and we’ll see turtles.
Many people (including myself ) know about Cocos Islands. I have now read a lot about it and its history.
The islands were on the ancient trade route between India, Burma, and Southeast Asia and were regularly visited by ships. In the 16th century, Portuguese sailors named the islands after the Portuguese word for coconut, coco
The islands were then discovered in 1609 by the British sea captain William Keeling but no settlement occurred until the early 19th century. One of the first settlers was John Clunies-Ross, a Scottish merchant; much of the island’s current population is descended from the Malay workers he brought in to work his copra plantation. The Clunies-Ross family ruled the islands as a private fiefdom for almost 150 years, with the head of the family usually recognised as resident magistrate. The British annexed the islands in 1857, and for the next century they were administered from either Ceylon or Singapore. The territory was transferred to Australia in 1955, although until 1979 virtually all of the territory’s real estate still belonged to the Clunies-Ross family.
Charles Darwin spent 12 days at the Cocos (keeling) Islands in the Indian Ocean during the Voyage of HMS Beagle in 1836. He explored many parts of the archipelago, and collected a large number of geological, plant and animal specimens.
The Two World Wars saw the islands become targets due to their strategic position in the Indian Ocean.
From 1944 to 1946 the tranquil islands came under military administration and buzzed with activity, home to thousands of military personnel.
The people of the Cocos Keeling Islands voted to become part of Australia in 1984.
The islands are now an internationally significant habitat for wildlife, and a remote tropical paradise for tourists seeking adventure, culture and space to breathe
The island is home to some rare bird including the red foot booby bird. I remember when we were in Galapagos we saw the blue footed booby bird.
The red footed booby bird
Cocos is also home to the red crab. There are hundreds of them. Little ones to quite big ones who crossed the sandy road in front of us when we went cycling out to the yacht club yesterday.
The sunsets are also very special. Though we have had a lot of cloud cover tonights was rather lovely.
A lazy start to the day sitting on the verandah but not at all concerned that the weather looks a little cloudy. The breeze keeps the bugs and the rain away. Think positive.
The boys set off to organise e-bikes for us to discover the island. I haven’t ridden a bike for a few years but ‘they’ say you don’t forget.
Well, I’ve never ridden an e -bike. And yes, they help you move along at a cracking pace. But these bikes were soooo heavy, and very hard to manoeuvre. But we did it. All day ! We covered this little slice of paradise from north to south. Lots of kilometres.
First stop the cooperative supermarket. We were told to bring most of our food as the supermarket and restaurants are light on products and are only open certain days.
Our bags were crammed with cheese & crackers , jatz, fruit, cereal, wraps bagels ham etc etc. Frozen milk kept it all cold route. Lucky we did, as the supermarket had very empty shelves. Lots of deodorant? They definitely need it in the heat, but do the locals and visitors buy it at very inflated prices?
We visited the Big Barge. A unique barge repurposed into an Art Gallery and cafe. It’s by the water and a delightful spot for a coffee and sweet treat.
The barge built by the Clunies-Ross family on Home island and finally brought to West Island retired and opened as a gallery. The history of the barge I had to have a little swing. With friends Jo and Martyn
Back on the bikes and along to Trannies Beach – which we renamed Frannies Beach!
A beautiful swim in crystal clear water with colourful fish and tons of busy crabs going about their business.
Martyn leaping out of the water.
A quick dry off and back in the bikes to next stop the jetty where the ferry leaves for Home island and Direction Island ( voted the most beautiful beach in Australia) – and we’re going tomorrow.
The boys looking at the lagoon across to Home island.
Thursday, the boys will be swimming across the lagoon. Partly for a challenge but mostly to raise funds for breast cancer. Jo has made a good recovery from breast cancer and Martyn wants to continue to raise awareness and much needed funds. I will include a link if you’d like to donate a $ towards it.
The weather isn’t great but it’s not boiling hot! That’s a positive.
We cycled back to Waves our house here and enjoyed lunch on the deck before setting off to the other end of the island to the Yacht Club.
Beautiful beaches.
The photo doesn’t show the colours! Attractive reef shoes for these beautiful beaches.
The Yacht Club was a disappointment! Not an icy drink in sight. But pristine beaches.
Back to Waves for a well deserved shower and Gin & Tonic on the verandah.
Tonight we’re going to the Cocos club. There’s not much alcohol on these islands but there is at the Cocos club. But dinner! They don’t do food. The restaurant that’s open tonight is only for a school function!!! But they supply a bbq pack which we’ll cook at home on our verandah. Not a disappointment.
Blue skies, happy people , connections being made and no bananas left for breakfast.
Onto the boat by 9 and by the time we arrived 30 mins later it was windy and overcast.
Walked down the pier with Mesu who looked after me all day. Called me Miss Fran!
Islands always have a windy side. And thankfully a calm side. The swim had to be changed. Not around the island this time. A course with markers on the calm side. 1 lap for the 1km swim and 3 laps for the 3km.
Lots of place to sit
But we chose…….
By the side of the infinity pool. Cocktail in hand.
The first race was quickly under way. A woman won it – just beating the 11year old son of Ky Hurst. It was so lovely to see them hug after the race.
Then the racers came in thick and fast.
They got the 3km race off quickly as the wind was getting stronger.
In they go. Not too rocky today.
We went to our great place got in the pool and watched them swimming by 6 times – a loop done 3 times.
See the swimmers behind us!
Ky Hurst won in 32 mins. He was cruising. A lovely man named Dean Duckworth has been runner up to Ky in all three races.
Steve made it back.
David & Kim our NZ friends did well. Especially Kim. And new friend Avy was just amazing!
Avy came in 12th. Beating some much younger people.
My favourite group are the pink ladies. For lovely friends from Northbridge Sydney.
Fun ladies in matching pink.
Medals were given to all and the prize giving will be tonight.
Then it was lunch time. Aset under the trees the choices had everyone piling their plates high. Lots of choices, places to sit and a great bar. Steve had two beers and fell asleep!
People sat, drank – mostly cocktails, recovered, snorkelled, walked around the little island, chatted until 3o’clock when we were herded back on the boat.
But not before the famous jetty jump. The game party people set off. This included Jill. They took the long walk out along the windy jetty. It was about a 3 metre jump. Jill just couldn’t do it. And I don’t blame her. The pink costume ladies did it and claimed they had the best sinus wash!!!
The pink costume ladies ready to jump!
Back on the boat everyone was just a little quiet. A bit weary I guess.
A short break back at the hotel before the Celebration dinner.
Everyone was told to dress to impress. Most dressed right up.
And the dancers certainly dressed up.
The awards were given. On our table of friends we had a first place winner in the over 70’s. Avy was also about 10 overall!
Kim was 3rd in the over 60’s. We cheered our talented friends along with all the other winners
Avy on the left Kim on the right.
Then the dancing started.
Oh what a night.
Deanne, me, Jill and Avy.
Off to bed because we have aqua aerobics at 8.15!
It’s been a great swim week. We’re staying on another night. A lot are leaving for home tomorrow and some are going to another island for a few days.
If you like swimming then Swim Week Fiji is a great week. Very different to wonderful swim treks we have done. they have 15 swimmers. These have 200 and as they say 5 days , 3 swims and 0 worries.
Bula. This friendly greeting is said by everyone you pass in this land of smiles.
It’s a traditional greeting. A hello. Or Hi. It’s easy to say and so lovely. The breakfast staff are full of greetings and smiles. How can you not start the day well when you are so well looked after. Nothing is too much trouble.
Today’s swim is here at the Sofitel. Right out the front. So a light breakfast. Did I mention how yum the local peanut butter is!!!! I had a little on toast before we headed to the beach front. The flags were up. The swimmers were all greeting each other like lifetime friends – which they probably will be by the end of this week.
The end of swim flags with our grass skirt class warriors.
Scott Rice , the organiser gives a clear briefing for the first swim. The 1 km. Conditions are much better, so optimism is high amongst the swimmers.
People are all rubbing cream onto each other. The anti lice cream is getting a big following. Quite a few got eaten by the lice yesterday and we know there are lice here. So much rubbing is going on. Armpits, under swimmers- no one is shy here!
The first race is off- a deep water start.
Jill and I waited, then leisurely entered the water for our private race for two. Water temperature is beautiful.
We swam around the area next to the course until we saw the first swimmers returning. The pool swimmers were favoured today in the flat conditions. But Ky Hurst’s young son once again came second.
I spoke to him after and he is such s a lovely kid.
As they finished people had jubilation written all over their faces.
Then the 3km briefing.
The briefing with Kim & Steve centre photo.
Into the water and away to the sound of the conch shell.
The young Fijians filled in time teaching a little one how to blow the conch shell.
And practised doing the Floss dance. To the cheers of the crowd.
The US guy was able to pull his passenger along.
Tobin about to set off.
He set of last but unfortunately as he overtook people ( he’s such a strong swimmer) the kayak hit a few swimmers. They weren’t happy so she had to be towed back by a jet ski.
Once again Ky Hurst cruised home for a win.
Our friends from NZ, Avy and Kim came in not far behind the leaders in under an hour.
AvyKim
David and Steve swam well and came in just over the hour I was in a good spot for cheering on the swimmers. They are all shapes and sizes. And the variety of swimwear is amazing.
Steve running towards the finish.
We had lunch by the water outside the Waitui Club. It’s an adults only section of the hotel.
Jill, Avy and I walked after lunch. Just down to the Marina about 2 km away. Bought a few tshirts for the kids and a jar of the local peanut butter.
Back to the infinity pool a sit on the deck chairs, a book and a cocktail completed the afternoon.
The evening drink session and days wrap was again a success. The 5 minute highlights movie is terrific. Lots of claps and cheering as some very happy people ran, jogged, danced and in one case fell over the finish line.
We sat with some new friends and had a pizza before heading to our room.
Our day started early. We received a wake up call at 6.30 – but not for us. For someone flying out ! We were already up and preparing for a day on South Sea Island.
The breakfast room was buzzing. Swimmers were all keeping the food stations busy. A big demand for bananas emptied the bowl quickly!
We sensibly had eggs to keep us going. And toast with the famous local peanut butter.
Getting in the bus the photographer called ‘Got your swimmers?’ One lady obviously didn’t hear that. On the island there was another call ‘anyone got some size 14 ladies swimmers’ poor lady.
We got the bus to the marina and once all 200 were on board we set off. The weather was cloudy. The wind a little brisk. We met some new people onboard. That’s the special thing about swimming holidays. The people are usually very friendly and down to earth. It’s a bit hard to be a pain or posh in your swimmers with a cap and goggles on.
Thirty minutes later we were in a smaller boat being shipped to shore. It’s the cutest little island. Usually home to back packers – they had been moved off for the day to visit other islands to allow us to have the whole island.
Conditions were not as good as we hoped but Jill and I decided we would try the swim around the island. About 1km.
We watched the big group go off then started behind them.
Along came Deanne a new friend from Brisbane. She had started with the race goers then decided – it’s too tough. She got out then saw us going in so joined us. But … ……..
Mistake 1. It was very shelly, coral bedding leading into the water and we didn’t have our reef shoes on so Ouch!
Mistake 2 We didn’t swim out far enough and before long came to a rocky shelf with small waves pushing us. I got snagged on a rock then immediately got worried about my new knee. So much rough rock and coral. I couldn’t get a cut on the new knee. The infection would be a disaster. So there I am I’m trying back off the rocks.
My swimmers got a small hole in the front. Better my swimmers than my skin.
We swam about 3/4 of the island before deciding to swim in. Alas, more coral and I couldn’t stand up. One of the beautiful Fijian helpers came to my rescue and hauled me to my feet.
Feeling relieved I’d made it back I asked myself. What were you thinking! I have no antibiotics and a coral cut gets infected very quickly. From now on sensible me.
Chris swam almost to the end but got out early as did lots of swimmers.
Next race – the 3km. They cut it back to 2km Steve, David, Kim and new friend Avy lined up all smiles.
It was tough out there but Steve did his best and Avy, a pocket rocket came in 13th overall and Kim not far behind ! Beating Steve and David!
It was a mighty effort from them all.
Ky Hurst ( former lifesaving champion and Olympian ) is the guest swimmer and won the race by a long way! He had also swum earlier with his 11yr old son in the 1 k race. His son came 2nd. And he’s only 11. A champion in the making.
Swimming over it was relaxing time with a bbq lunch and an open bar.
Then it was time for the traditional welcome.
The afternoon drifted on until it was time to return on the boat.
Back on the small boat. Out to the large boat and back to the hotel. Some very tired people on board.
Showers in the hotel were very welcome. A little rest then off to the drinks party.
They had the swim results up.
Steve did well. Avy came first in the over 70’s and 13th overall. What a champ! Kim came 5th in her age group. Steve 6th and David 7th.in the over 70’s
The party included a video of the days activities. Lots of fun recalling the day.
Scott Rice the organiser. The colourful Coolangatta girls!
The evening finished with pizza on the verandah and a wee drink.
Another day and another swim tomorrow. This time it’s outside it resort.
After nearly 9 weeks , multiple beds , thousands of miles driven, meals eaten, Gins drunk, beds slept in , showers negotiated, meeting lovely friends, seeing unbelievable scenery, taking hundreds of photos , walked kilometres……. It’s time for home.
But first we have a few more friends to visit.
We said goodbye to John & Lisa our ‘in laws’ who are so much fun to travel with and flew to LA.
It always amazes me that our beautiful fun friends Dan & Izzy Garr live about 10 mins from LA airport but when you get there it’s a quiet children friendly suburb. Westchester is great. Only 11 mins to the beach Dan swims at most days, 29 mins from Dan’s work called Hot Buttered Elves, a design place where he invents – products , toys and makes models for movies. It’s 15 mins from Izzy’s work at Mattel, where she is head of the design team for Barbie.
As you can tell they are creative. And their sons Max , 21 is studying Film at College and Luke 15 is at school.
Our first night with them Dan cooked up a storm for us. Beautiful home cooked chicken Cordon Bleu parcels. Their kitchen is a cook’s paradise.
The next day they both had work commitments so Steve and I had a very late start and headed off up to Paradise Cove – a favourite spot of Dans. It’s by the beach up past Malibu. We had a beach walk and an early lunch before heading back and stopping at Culver City shopping mall to check out an LA mall. Much the same as ours!
Izzy was waiting for us when we returned. She really wanted to take us to her workplace’s toy store. It’s full of toys all made by Mattel. She said ‘ you really have to take your little grandsons some toys’ . I wish I had prepared better. It’s like Aladdin’s cave and I couldn’t decide. I was limited by size as we still had a flight from San Diego to San Francisco. But I managed a bag of toys. Thanks Izzy. Big staff discount as well.
Back at their house Dan was preparing for dinner. He is a super cook !
They kindly invited our friend Betty (my wing woman in Galapagos and Turkey swim treks ) and her husband Craig.
What a fun night. Dan has a big open teppanyaki grill and did the fried rice. Then there was the bbq – fish , scallops, beef, chicken. Enough for an army.
Dan in action. Steve with Izzy & Dan With Betty my ‘wing woman swim friend ‘ we swam in Galapagos and Turkey – next year Egypt.
We had the best night. Betty’s husband Craig has amazing stories of his time in the US airforce as a lawyer. As a cook he was …. But with Dans encouragement he was great.
Another wonderful night with friends. and a 🛌🛌🛌 bed rating. What comfort.
Saturday we headed down the 405 – the freeway south. It was super busy and fast so we got off and took the scenic road through the beaches.
There was an airshow at Huntington Beach. People everywhere.
We continued south to San Capistrano. It’s a mission established in the late 1700’s when the Mexican Catholics lived in this area.
We called in briefly to the outlet centre. Steve bought more than I did!
We arrived at our friends Ben & Sharon. We met Ben on our first ever swim trek but have caught up about 5 times since. He and Dan & Izzy are old friends. I’d never met his wife Sharon as she said swims are his thing! But we hit it off.
Their house in Del Mar just north of Dan Diego is beautiful. They are still doing renovations but they welcomed us and we had a 🛌🛌🛌 stay.
After a glass or two of Veuve 🥂we headed off to a jazz night. Their son Eric is in a group at his school and they were the opening act for a more established group. We had dinner there and a great night.
And a good sleep. Thankfully as our flight home is 11.50 tonight!
This morning Ben & Steve walked down the hill to the beach and Sharon & I slept in. around 9.30 we headed down for breakfast with son Eric. A great cafe.
Eric & Sharon at the cafe.
We had a great walk around the area.
Beautiful beach side. Ben & Eric surf! Cute houses in the area. Bars with a view for happy hour.
Before long it was time to leave. Many hugs later we headed off.
A little detour to La Jolla just a few kilometres south. This is where Rob & Jordan stayed for a few months after leaving NY during covid. Leo has run his toes through the sand here !
A beautiful piece of coast.
Finally…….. the airport. A flight to San Francisco where we are now drinking a glass of bubbles thinking how lucky we are to have enjoyed a long ….. long ….. trip and still be loving it all.
But I’m ready for home. For our sons, our daughter in laws , especially our grandsons, my friends, the pool.
The first one at one of the many squares ( should they be called piazzas!) in Adelaide.
Called 80’s Ladies it probably would not be my first choice but my niece Vashti a professional Sax player was in the band for the show. and it was great.
It was a riot of fluro. See niece Vashti with her saxophone 🎷 in the background of the above photo. It was loud , fun, and our group were definitely the oldest in the crowd!
Somehow it was great fun. I sang along to 80’s songs like Working 9 to 5 and It’s Raining Men…… and we came out smiling.
The show finished ….. we sat outside having a Gin & Tonic looking at the trapeze artists then walked a few blocks to another Square – all lit up and in party mode.
We scrambled into the Speigeltent, found seats and settled in for Elephant Man the Musical. You probably remember the sad story of the Elephant Man. A movie starring John Hurt. Now thanks to a wonderful director – a local team – including musician husband & wife – it’s now a musical.
Complete with a ringmaster, beautiful nurse, evil Doctor, assorted musicians, actors and the sad elephant man we clapped and sang and shed a tear through the musical journey of the elephant man.
After thunderous applause we left the tent to meet the actors outside. My niece knew the music writers from her days of studying jazz at the uni.
Vashti meets her old uni friend – composer of the music.
This original Australian production is co-directed by the Olivier-award winning, Edinburgh and Adelaide Fringe veteran Guy Masterson alongside Christopher Mitchell. This gothic fairy tale retelling is as hysterical and heartwarming as it is heartbreaking. It’s going to Melbourne soon if you happen to live there.
We followed the next afternoon with a visit to the old Capri theatre complete with art deco foyer, velvet chairs and old style organ. It’s gorgeous and if I lived here I’d be on the volunteers list and work here. We saw the new Fisherman’s Friends movie. A great fun viewing.
Capri Theatre , Goodwood Adelaide. Restored art deco foyer
We could go to shows morning, noon and night. It’s a feast here during Festival time. You should try and come one year.
The day was glorious- after a cool night we woke to blue skies and a warm sun.
The visitors centre is at the main building as you drive into the Wilpena Resort. It also houses an IGA which would be so helpful for the many campers.
The area is very sheltered with lots of beautiful trees providing shade during the hot summer months.
The Aboriginal guides at the centre have lots of helpful advice on the many walks and the drives we could take to discover the sights of the area.
With a plan in mind we set off. The resident emus were there to say goodbye as we headed back out to the explorers way.
Map of the area of Wilpena
Our first turn off was to Bunyeroo Gorge. The road was dirt but not too bumpy. Before long the grandeur of the mountain ranges started to appear.
The gorge here is so different to the gorges on the Gibb River. Spectacular, yes, Rocky, yes, but accessible by 4 wheel drive. We drive into Bunyeroo and are immediately surrounded by the ranges. Bunyeroo Gorge is one of the main gorges which runs through the Heysen Range towards Lake Torrens.
As we drive through the gorge the trees are magnificent. The gums are huge. The pine trees line up along the creek and the road.
As we drive through the Gorge the size of the limestone cliffs either side look awesome.
The creeks we cross have large stones and it’s easy to see how high the water level got to the last time the creek flowed.
Continuing on we came to Brachina Gorge which was just as inspiring as the Bunyeroo Gorge. It’s wonderful to see it close up. Not to be scrambling over rocks and boulders!
We passed as few cars and came upon a group of young cyclists from St. Peter’s School in Adelaide. They were doing over 300 km over their 10 days in the area. They were young , enthusiastic and will sleep well at night!
After we left the Gorge area we spotted a vine growing along the road. It’s a Paddy melon which is a poisonous fruit for humans and most animals.
We stopped for a picnic at the curiously named Dingly Dell. It sounds so Irish. There are little picnic tables set up through the Gorge and in the turnoffs to lookouts. So thoughtful!
Nearby we spotted a camper with their washing strung out capturing the lovely sun and breeze. Perfect.
We drove, we pottered, we left the car for little walks and we returned to Wilpena Pound for a walking tour of the historic homestead.
All the tours at Wilpena are conducted by local Adnyamathanha people. Local guide John McKenzie says Adnyamathanya’s made up of two indigenous words: Adnya, meaning rock, and mathanya, meaning people.
Guide John. A great storyteller.
Wilpena Pound itself is an immense horseshoe-shaped feature known locally as Ikara. It was once used by pastoralists as a natural stock pen. Today, it’s the jewel in the crown of this rugged landscape.
Six years ago, the traditional owners of this land acquired Wilpena Pound Resort.
It allows locals, who’re fiercely proud of their heritage, to share their knowledge of culture and country directly with tourists.
John is good at sharing his heritage with us. Helping us understand what it was like for the local mob when the white pastoralists arrived at the Pound.
They worked for the pastoralists on what had been their land. We toured the remains of the building that made up the farm.
The stone work is so distinctively South Australian.
John told us the story of the creation of Wilpena Pound. it differed somewhat from the geological description offer by scientists but is a Dreamtime story passed down by the local mob.
Long before the coming of white settlers to Wilpena, there was an old Kingfisher Man called Yurlu who lived in the west near Kuyani territory. He journeyed south from his home at Kakarlpunha (Termination Hill) to attend an important Malkada (corroboree) at Ikara (Wilpena Pound). Passing through Brachina Gorge on his way to the ceremony, Yurlu saw two giant serpents (Akurra) travelling in the same direction. The snakes scared him and he hid behind low hills until they passed.
Yurlu stopped to light a big signal fire to inform his people that he was coming. The charcoal of that fire remains today in the form of the massive coal deposits that have been mined for decades at Leigh Creek.
Passing through Brachina Gorge on his way to the ceremony, Yurlu saw two giant serpents travelling in the same direction. The snakes scared him and he hid behind low hills until they passed. The two Akurra (male and female) were so bloated by the feast that they coiled up, and died. They now form the ring of hill surrounding the Pound.
It’s a great story and it’s important these stories are passed down.
After the tour we walked back to the resort or Chalet as it was originally called stopping to admire the trees.
The main resort building with large restaurant.
Another sunset beckoned so we climbed the hill behind the camp ground and were rewarded with a sun streaked sky.
Returning through the camp sites I was rather pleased I wasn’t the camper in the blue one man tent.
frans travel tales 