Francesco said ‘ breakfast at 8 and be ready by 8.45’ we were to be escorted to the boat on day 1. After that. We’re trusted to walk.
Down to the marina we met Eduardo our boat captain. He’s a typical young Italian man. Very tanned, bald head, chain necklace, vape folded into his fist and a cheeky attitude.
Francesco outlined the day and away we went.
About 30 minutes later the boat stopped in a sheltered bay. We did our orientation swim where they look at our speed and later give us our groups.
I could have saved them time looking at me. I knew I’d be in the slow group and I’m happy to be.
I’m surprised so many wear fins. I’ve always loved mine. I think the group is mostly over 60. There are two sister here with their mum. They’ll be fast.
We swam around 1.5 km maybe more and then stopped for lunch on the boat.
Lunch made by Eduardo’s mum was a huge pasta salad and done cold meats and cheese. Just perfect for swimmers.
The afternoon swim was much longer in our groups. I’m with Beth, Kaz and Steve
We made a tight little group and I was happy with how I swam. It worked out at around 3.5.
Back to the boat harbour it was buzzing and we headed for the nearest bar. We needed a beer after all the salt.
Steve and I headed out for dinner around 7.30 – the others went off in their groups. It would be nice to start being more included.
We caught the fast ferry to this little island off the coast from Trapani- below Palermo.
Lots of holiday makers were queued up ready to rush the best seats. Some things are the same the world over.
We stood in line and an Italian lady said ‘Sei Bellissimo’ to me! ( you look beautiful) I was flattered. She indicated my navy dress, cream hat and shoes. How nice!
Half and hour later we were in island holiday mode.
We walked up our hotel about 10 mins from the port. Fortunately our room was ready. It’s a newish hotel built on an old quarry. It’s 5 mins from the action.
By that I mean the restaurants, gelato, bars, bicycle rental shops ( every one rents bikes) clothes, beach paraphernalia, jewellery made from shells , umbrellas and countless suntanned Italians calling out to each and chatting.
We dumped the bags and had a quick lunch. Vegetable frittata for me and tuna croquettes for Steve.
The seafood here is renowned. Super fresh tuna, swordfish. Octopus particularly fill the menus.
5pm was the appointed time to meet our fellow swimmers and catch up with Francesco. He was my first guide back in 2013 in Sardinia. He’s the reason I got some confidence to keep swimming.
Francesco is the head guide with Guila supporting him. She’s a former top Italian swimmer who is now working several months a year for swim trek in summer when not studying astronomy at university in Spain.
Getting the safety talk from Francesco. Guila. Eduardo the boat owner and Francesco.
After the briefing and introductions we headed out for dinner.
The 15 swimmers are made up of 4 friends from California, and 9 friends from Sydney. Steve and I are the only ones not to know anyone ( Except Francesco) I hope they include us!
A fun dinner where we celebrated Celia’s 35 th birthday. She is from NY but travelling with her mother and sister and are part of the Sydney team.
A surprise cake organised by Francesco
I had a beautiful grilled swordfish on a aubergine puree. Delicious.
We fell into bed dreaming about the first swim tomorrow.
Flying into Turin or Torino, its Italian name was easy. A bus from there airport to our hotel right near the train station.
Our hotel the Star majestic was one of the best in terms of facilities.
Hunger got to us. An hour late arriving it was nearly 9pm very late for eating. But we found a good salad nicoise and muscles for Steve.
A walk in the morning for Steve taking photos of the grand buildings and then onto the train. A long journey to Lerici. I’ve stayed with niece Berti several times before and love the town of Lerici. They live back from the coast in the hills with beautiful views. We’re staying in their little Airbnb with lots of little steps up to the top bedroom which has wonderful views.
A little corner in Cerri my niece’s village
We had a lovely catch up over dinner and planned the next few days The next morning the wind came up but Fabio decided we’d still go out on his new boat. He was keen to show us.
Down to the not so little Marina with around 1000 boats of various sizes tied up.
With Berti on board.
We got onto the boat. It’s new and comfortable and headed out across the Golfe de Poeti.
Heading out of the marina
Passing PortdeVenere, I love looking at the church right on the point. I visited it with Pip my Sydney niece when we visited 24 years ago.
Porto Venere
We headed down the coast towards the five little Cinqueterre villages pulling in to a protected cove with a little waterfall and an old building which turned out to be the train line. While we were there several trains passed very close to the edge of the cliff.
Our first swim from Fabio’s boat.
We had lunch and a lovely refreshing swim before heading back as the wind came up.
Fabio has a new pizza oven and that night we sat under the pergola and made our own pizzas.
A great set up near the pizza oven
Fabio had made the pizza dough. It was a lovely relaxing chatty evening. We planned the next days activities.
Fabio making his pizza with zucchini flowers
Steve and I decided to go down to Lerici as Berti had to work. She’s a teacher but does holiday activities with the children as part of her contract.
We caught the local bus down and it takes you on a little tour of some of the other little villages nearby.
We arrived at Lerici and took a nice walk along the waterfront. Watching about 8 little boys getting ready for their sailing lesson as part of vacation care!
Steve went up to the castle which brings back a lot of memories for me as my friend Pat and I had a week in a little Airbnb up behind the castle. It was quite a few years ago but I remember like it was yesterday.
Steve went up the art show in the castle. A modern version of the last supper. Looking back to Lerici from the castle
We checked out a few little shops nearby and found one cranky Ligurian man who pushed us out of his shop because we didn’t want to buy anything. It was almost siesta closing time. He must have been ‘hangry’.
With Cleo
Cleo caught the bus down and met for lunch. She’s 15 now and a lovely young woman. Very interesting, studies hard, likes school and is such a great mix of her Australian mother and Italian father.
Berti picked us up and we went home and had a relaxing afternoon. Their little village is extremely small so there’s really no where to walk to within the village except up-and-down the little winding steep laneways.
Fabio decided to cook and sitting on the terrace in their lovely garden eating asparagus risotto with chilled wine made it very special.
Berti had suggested an activity for tonight. Going to her choir. At 9.15! So late. That is almost bedtime but not in Italy.
Small group of singers.
It’s a group of village ladies – 5 and 1 man. But 2 could come tonight so I made up the numbers.
They were lovely. So welcoming. First off was a chat – about their children. Then Bertie who is the unofficial choir organiser started up the music. They have several Italian songs and 2 English ones. They claim it helps their English.
After being at my choir concerts in England it was lovely singing with these ladies in their tiny Italian choir. I hope word spreads and it grows.
Back up the marble steps for a good nights sleep. Bertie informed us the water is going off at 8.30 for work being done in the laneway.
And tomorrow we leave this lovely little piece of Italy. I love my time here with niece Roberta – her official name. it was lucky Fabio was home. He’s usually away on his ship. He’s a ship engineer with a cruise line and spends months away.
Back in Rusper our friends have hosted an open garden for the village church.
And today our last day we are dressing in our garden party clothes and drinking G& T in the garden.
Our hostess Marie France
The weather is beautiful….. English style. Started out grey and cleared to blue skies by the middle of the day.
The guests arrived. Some walked from the village. Some drove from as far as London just over an hour away.
We had an hour and a half before we scrambled up the airport.
Gatwick is like all big airports. Lots of people and long walks up the gate. Ours was a good ten minutes of constant walking.
Then the theatre began. An announcement telling us boarding was delayed. That we had a full flight and there wouldn’t be room in overhead lockers for all the carry on bags. They offered free under plane storage and early boarding if people volunteered to check in their bags.
3 people came forward. Then a rather forceful lady started walking around the gathering line of people pulling out some and asking them to put their bags in the size measuring contraption.
It was actually quite funny watching grown men and women trying to cram oversized bags into the frame. If they didn’t fit they went to one side. Check in!
A women sitting near us tried to hide her rather heavy looking bag, a big back pack and handbag. She did it and later boarded!
We then sat on the tarmac waiting for take off. An hour later we did.
Arriving into Turin it was still light so we dropped our bags and headed out for a late dinner. Another salad Nicoise for me.
Next morning a long train ride up Lerici. We’re staying with our niece for 3 nights.
An early start for Ros and David who left Bath for St Ives.
Steve and I sorted our bags and cleared the apartment and were on the road by 9
The next few days we are wandering the Cotswolds. People love this area. There are always debates about which is the cutest villages.
I will run my own survey !
First up Castle Combe. A very small village, it was quiet apart from a few meandering tourists.
This tiny village was used in the movie War Horse and there was a display about this in the local church
I’d heard about Painswick from two people. One was a lecturer in my arts group who lectured for ArtsNational last year. She lives there and recommended a visit.
The second is one of the therapy girls, Donna whose rugby-0playing son played the the region and lived in Painswick.
It’s beautiful. The Main Street is narrow with some lovely shops. The side streets have beautiful houses, an arts centre with a good cafe, a church in a large park with lines of trees. Donna told me 99 trees were planted there.
The local cafe in the arts canteen was buzzing. Lots of lovely local ladies meeting for coffee and lunch. They chatted in what to me sounded like posh English accents and were dressed very ladylike.
The Painswick hotel was recommended for afternoon tea…… and is as lovely as it looked – but we had cute villages to see.
Painswick Hotel
Next stop Nailsworth. A lovely Main Street.
Studeley Castle and Gardens sounded great so we drove down narrow lanes to get there only to find out it was closed. We’ll have to come back.
It was time for Stow on the Wold. Our room for two nights is in The Porch – reported to be the oldest inn in England. Well I’m not sure if that fact, but it’s old. Up and down steps, low doorways, beams, old lights, dark common rooms but very comfortable rooms. Ours overlooked the small park opposite.
Porch House
We walked up the Main Street to the town square. Beautiful old honey coloured buildings. Lots of city shops, including a 3 story antique shop. So much in there. So well organised! My friend Ginetta would love it.
Steve heading for the antique centre. And the car.
I found the town library. Modern looking inside a very old building. I think this village might be right up there with the best of the Cotswolds. Certainly consider this as a base for exploring the area.
The gardens of the Cotswolds are renowned. Mondays most are closed so we missed the famous Rococo gardens in Painswick and Studeley. Today we stoped at the old market town of Burton and bought a few things. And headed for Bourton Gardens.
The beautiful house was closed to the public but the gardens are open
The house and a small section of the garden.
We loved it. The white garden was stunning, and the way the garden was laid out was fascinating.
Another thing that is common to many UK gardens is the over planting. In Australia we tend to plant more sparingly. Here it almost looks crowded.
Nearby was the railway museum. Naturally Steve wanted to visit there. By luck the old steam train was about to leave.
The old steam train
Finally got to Studeley house and gardens. It was important during the reign of Henry V111 and is now maintained by the present owner and its priority is living in harmony with the animals of the world. Hence the elephants in the gardens
Our second day of wandering the Cotswolds took us up to Broadway – probably one of the best for a base with it’s lovely pubs, restaurants, shops etc. – very pretty place. It was hosting an arts festival when we were there. Lots of painters in the streets.
Broadway
Then Bourton Upon Water. Again soooo pretty but suffering a little from tourists so losing its small village feel
Bourton Upon Water
Burford a lovely medieval village. Chipping Norton home to the car man …… Jeremy Clarkson.
Then into Oxford. Very grand buildings, very crowded. Full of students flying around in their gowns. It’s exam time and they must wear their gown with a flower on the lapel.
I went to an Art Society lecture at Magdalen College. Similar to my ArtsNational lectures. It was great meeting people from Oxford who follow the arts.
Jo Watson the lecturer.
And our final morning was spent at the lovely Oxford Botanical Gardens. A very interesting garden with an excellent’Plants as medicine ‘ section. Well labelled. And a literary section
The literary table. You are invited to sit , reflect and write something. A lovely idea.
At the end of the day a beautiful lunch in a small village pub on our way back to Bill and Marie France in Rusper.
The choir travelled today. On the bus by 9 we left in drizzly rain. We are supposed to be doing several pop up performances but if it rains there will be no audience.
First stop was for a Bansky street art ! A busy artist his work pops up everywhere.
Banksy in Bristol
Off to the Clifton suspension bridge. The hardy climbers went down 130 steps to a cave to view the bridge from a different angle. But I was happy up top.
We lined up along the wall and did two songs for a small but appreciative audience!
Back on the bus to the centre of Bristol and another bit of Banksy street art
We walked towards the river and set up for a pop up concert but it rained. So along the wharf for lunch and a wine.
We tried again after lunch and succeeded.
The highlight of the day was going to St Stephen’s Cathedral. we had been invited uk join a local choir for a concert in the cathedral.
They made us so welcome. their musical director. Beth is from Brisbane but living in Bristol. Our Musical Dircector Jac is from this area but lives in Brisbane.
They made contact and set up this joint concert.
We rehearsed the song we were to sing together ‘What the World Needs Now’ It sounds great. And the choir. – all women were so friendly.
Each one of us received a hand written post card from one of the choir. What a thoughtful thing to do.
We also were treated to a cream sherry. Delicious and were told it is medical. Good for singers throat.
The concert started and we sat in the church and listened.
They sang about 5 songs. Then our turn.
The acoustics in the church were beautiful. I’m sure it enhanced our singing.
We finished with our joint song. What a great experience. I think this will be a highlight of our tour.
Back on to the bus to Bath and a few photo opportunities. The Royal Crescent is as i remember from 1976. Very elegant. Though the grass was under construction. A Robbie Williams concert is coming up so they were constructing the stage.
We walked as a raggedy group towards the city centre. Passing the Jane Austen Centre. It’s the 250th Anniversary for Jane and there are special celebrations everywhere
A group of girls emerged all dressed in period costumes which is a better sight than some of the hens groups we have seen around Brighton and now Bath.
Some outrageous and sometimes tacky dress ups have been spotted!
It was more Gin o’ clock so we found a great gin bar and tried a few of the gin combinations. We paid for 1 but after awhile the waitress appeared with a trio of different gins and a bottle of tonic.
I’m a little behind with my blogging! It’s been super busy. Making our way towards our next stop we covered some beautiful coast line.
Port Isaac home to Doc Martin.
We walked up hill and down stairs to get to Tintagel Castle. Built in 1230. It’s on the coast and was the seat of the Cornish kings.
Further on the coast we stopped at
Ilfracombe harbourVerity: Virtue & Justice. Sculpture by Damien Hirst.
We spent the next night at Minehead. This is the start point of the great Coastal Walk and was featured in the movie The Salt Path.
The next morning was clear as we drove to Bath. It’s beautiful countryside. Green. Fields defined by hedges , narrow roads , little villages. Stopped at Cheddar. Home to the Cheddar Cheese! Naturally we bought some. We found our village in Bath and met Ros and David in the Main Street having coffee!
We were able to check in around 1 and found the apartment was perfect for the four of us. A few stairs! But a very convenient location- just near the hall where our first work shop was held.
A quick lunch with a few of the soul singers and Ros and I headed off to the a capella workshop. We left David and Steve to do the laundry!
David & Steve with the laundry bags. With Jac our musical director!
The workshop was fabulous. We worked on two songs with Laura, a local choir MD. She was beautiful. So encouraging and so good at directing us. We learned Little Shop of Horrors and Bring Him Home from Les Miserables. It was a joy.
After working hard all afternoon we then walking into the main city and did a few pop ups.
Some our Soul Song buddies.
Trying to attract a crowd to promote our two concerts on Saturday. We were singing up a storm. And feeling cold. Even though it should be summer.
Singers getting organised. Rugby supporters crossing the bridge to the grounds. Walking through supporters smoke!
Our final pop up was at the entrance to Pulteney Bridge There was a huge Rugby match between Bath and rivals Bristol from just down the road! The pubs were pumping? The crowds out in their blue, black and white supporters jerseys. We set up at the entrance to the bridge and even attracted a small crowd.
Dinner was a well deserved jug of Sangria and tapas! then a walk home to bed. After a long catch up with Ros and David.
I was keen to visit Padstow. It’s reported to be a lovely seaside town with a few famous inhabitants. One being Rick Stein.
He grew up in the area and now has a huge presence in the town. There are 4 restaurants, a cafe , fish & chippery, cooking school and several accommodation places.
I wondered if he was subject to criticism by locals. Apparently not. I think they appreciate that he attracts people to the town who spend £ not just at his venues.
Travelling up from Lyme Regis we called into Plymouth. Steve has been researching his grandfather who was in the navy and was at one point in Plymouth.
It has an impressive naval heritage and some wonderful historic districts and of course award winning museums and water attractions. Drakes island sits off the coast and the old waterfront building have been restored into apartments, cafes, a museum and trips by ferry around the harbour.
Finding apartments in small towns down by the water is always a challenge but we’re getting very good. Our flat for the night is right by the harbour in a small square called Drang. The Drang apartments are great. Ours, no 1 was so good I could have stayed a week. they all have stairs but Martha the young woman in the bar next door where you collect the key whisked the bag up the stairs in a flash. I just pack an overnight bag with about 2 days clothes and essentials. Works better than taking a bag out each night.
We settled in and returned to the bar for a drink. Sitting in the afternoon sun was a great way to people watch.
The small gallery in the square Drang Gallery had a Bansksy and David Hirst
We took a passeggiata or maybe a promenade here in England around the small harbour soaking up the sights and sounds. Lots of ice cream, fish & chips, seagulls, boats bobbing and people sitting in bars.
Arriving at Rick’s The Seafood restaurant isn’t so impressive. It’s opposite a car park. Though the building is very attractive.
Inside it’s a beautiful space. Art works on the walks, great lighting, a central bar which separates the large room.
They had a special’ 50 years’ menu. For £69 for 4 courses. But though it looked good it didn’t have what we felt like.
We opted for sashimi and scallops as starters. Both sensational.
I then had grilled Bass on a bed of spinach with Burre Blanc sauce Steve had a type of fish stew. S I’m beautiful. Just don’t convert £ to Aus$. It’s frightening how much it all costs.
A nightcap back at the bar next to our place has us chatting to the couple who own it and the apartments. Perfect day.
We decided to head towards the beach. In summer they come alive with ’sunbathers’ But summer is struggling this year.
It rained most of the way.
But as we arrived at Lyme Regis the sun struggled out.
This is a lovely area of Devon and with its dramatic coastline is known as the Jurassic Coast.
Picture in the window of the Lyme Regis gallery.
We were able to walk in the afternoon sun / it doesn’t get dark until around 9pm.
We visited the Jane Austen gardens which sit above the little harbour and Cobb Beach. They have a sculpture walk to enjoy along with the views.
We saw a statue in honour of Mary Anning an English fossil collector dealer and palaeontologist she discovered two rare dinosaur fossils.
The views along the coast were stunning.
The swim cabins.
There were a few hardy souls swimming, standup paddle boarding and sailing. With a 9pm sunset people enjoy activities for hours after work. If only the weather were warmer.
Visiting seaside towns is unmistakable. The smells …..fish and chips in the air, people queuing for ice cream, the sea gulls crying out, kids struggling to play on the pebble beaches , a few oldies camped outside their beach cabin out of the breeze hoping for some sun.
Postcards in the stands outside the shops, the beautiful iron lights with scrolls of shells.
Little boats competing for a spot in the harbour.
The architecture is very English
We walked for quite awhile stretching our legs – especially up the steep paths off the gardens perched above the town and harbour.
It was nice to sit and rest on the mosaic bench. I think I’ll design one for our garden at home.
Time for a G&T then dinner of fish at a restaurant on the sea front.
It’s famous for its world class opera set in beautiful grounds with atmosphere to match.
People traditionally dress in evening wear and dinner suits. But these days it is acceptable to wear other options!
Our hosts Bill and Marie France have been attending Glyndebourne for many years. In fact MF showed me a picture of herself there for her 40th birthday.
We set off early …. First stop was for Rocky their wire haired dachshund who was going to ‘day care’ as he’s a new puppy and can’t be left for long periods and we were going to be gone hours!
We arrived as the gates opened. All in Bills plan to secure a well located picnic table – in the sun and out of the wind.
All ages are represented! Not just the ‘older’ opera lovers. It’s a real occasion. You arrive early to secure a picnic spot. Bill knows how to find the best spots! You get a table and bring all your own picnic food and drinks.
We enjoyed a few glasses of champagne and nibbles before strolling the grounds….. and for me people watching.
We entered the main room of the old house which founder John Christie built in 1935.
Our friends Ros – in the choir with me and husband David joined us and we made our way around the opera house and into our seats.
It’s a new looking building with every seat enjoying a good view. We were in the dress circle. Some of us in the front row and David and Ros just 2 rows back.
The first two acts were wonderful. A more modern production than I’ve seen before with a superb young cast.
Interval came and is 1.5 hrs long allowing you to return to your picnic area ( or one of the restaurants on site) and enjoy some food and wine.
MF provided us with a delicious picnic. She had everything prepared and packed cleverly in glass jars! Bill had beautiful French wines. How spoilt we are.
We had gazpacho, followed by a prawn salad and finished with a deconstructed strawberry cheese cake. Just wonderful.
The bells rang and we returned to the theatre.
One of my favourite dresses of the night. A long jacket, silk and embellished.
I spotted men in heavy brocade jackets, sparkly dresses, bare strapless gowns ( they must have been so cold) and lots of wraps being put to good use.
The sun was shining but it was cold!
The second half was highly entertaining, lots of funny subtitles helped, though with the superb acting you knew what was going on!
It all finished around 8 and even exiting the grounds it was easy to do. So well organised.
What a fantastic night. Definitely a dream come true.
frans travel tales 