food

King Island

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Departing Launceston was a master class in packing. We were told we had a limit and some , particularly the golfers had clubs to check in.

After lots of laughs and weighing we made it into a small 16 seat plane.

Girls in the back.

A brief touch down in Wynyard to collect another 2 passengers then onto King Island.

Collecting the 3 cars takes a small committee of drivers. Not me !

Three couples are staying at Green Ponds Guesthouse with our pocket rocket Host Sonia

The remaining 3 couples are in 2 apartments just up the road.

We stopped for lunch at Legs. A coffee cafe in the day and a wine bar at night. We all walked in and the owner paled somewhat and said service would be slow. And it was but the coffee and the pizzas were great.

Across the road we could select between the IGA and Foodworks for our supplies. Fruit, wine and bread. Sonia has such a well stocked house for us to choose from. It’s so generous.

Our super host showed us the 8 big crays she would be using for our cray salad dinner. My goodness they amazing.

She got all the meat out for us and we had a mighty salad to go with it and Helen’s super dressing.

Beautiful Tasmanian wines and ice cream for dessert was the perfect alfresco dinner.

The air got cool so inside to the prelit fire for chat then early to bed. The beds were cosy, the quilts were a perfect weight, a window opened so sleep came easily.

It’s easy to sleep in. It’s dark until at least 7.30!

So we enjoyed breakfast whilst the golfers had left at 7 to drive north to Cape Wickham golf course.

The non golfers head to the Calcified Forest on the southern tip of the island. On the way we stopped at the site of the shipwreck Cataraqui. It was very sad to read about the 400 people who died there in 1845. Many of them children.

Onto the forest which I hadn’t read much about. Fascinating, they look a bit moon like.

Seal rocks was next. Absolutely gorgeous views. The coastline is treacherous.

Back into Currie the biggest town on the island. After a sandwich a few of the girls went exploring. We wanted to visit the Art Gallery and Museum. No luck. Both were closed even though they were advertised s as open. On small islands there is usually a reason they close. I’m sure our hostess Sonia will know.

Boathouse. Restaurant with no Food

We walked the trail around to the Boathouse- a restaurant with no food.

What a place. Colourful, fun, eccentric it’s a must. You can bring your own supplies and sit at one of the many painted tables. Done by local artist Caroline ( she came to the island for a week, 20 years ago and hasn’t left! ) the room is filled with of seafaring memorabilia. I don’t know how to describe it. Like being in Greece !

A small rest for all before heading off to Grassey on the opposite side of the coast. To Wild Harvest. It’s a small restaurant owned jointly by Lucinda and her business partner Ian Johnson. They own 2 restaurants here. Different styles on opposite coastlines.

Outside Wild Harvest
Ian giving us a between course food description

This one does a degustation. 5 courses. Before each course Ian – the most relaxed chef ever, comes out and explain to the diners what is coming next. there were 22 in the rustic room which Ian built himself.

More than satisfied friends.

Ian also runs a tour company for the island. People get off the plane. Onto his bus to the restaurant for dinner and stay the night at the hotel’ perfect!

We drove home avoiding kangaroos and fell into bed.

Tasmania in a nutshell

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Who doesn’t love Tasmania? it’s the most beautiful place with food and wines to add to the experience.

I joined our group of 12, two days late after attending my ArtsNational conference in Sydney. I had a bit of catching up to do. They were well relaxed when I arrived.

The first night we had dinner at Stillwater right on the Tamar River. Fabulous food in a cellar surrounded by the wonderful wines to compliment the food.

One happy group of 12

Jill and I walked the next morning. Just around the streets of Launceston – to orientate myself. It’s a lovely old city with many heritage buildings and parks. Some even with monkeys on display!

We headed off for lunch at Ghost Rock winery.

Kathy twisted our arm for a stop at the Christmas Creek berry farm. What a spot. The cafe overlooks the gardens and huge berry patch. Every type of berry inspired food was on the menu. We shared a crepe filled with berries and Steve had a berry affogato! A taste sensation.

A quick stop in Deloraine for a little walk to look at eccentric BnB and the street art.

Then the winery. A superb lunch. Local lamb roasted. Delicious Pinot Noir and some managed Persian Love cake for dessert.

A small walk and quiet night was needed to wind down after the long lunch.

The next morning we went walking. Down to the Tamar and across to the university. Housed in repurposed buildings the university looks relaxed and is also used for Parkrun. Lots of runners were arriving for their run

Tamar River with early morning rowers
Looking across to the university.
Tassie House. Timber is used extensively

Back through the markets with all the local produce on display.

Mushrooms

The golfers had left early for their game at the very well know Barnbougle Golf Club. We were meeting for lunch after at the beautiful restaurant.

But first a coffee stop at Bridport. A pretty place by the sea. Swimmers contemplated a swim. But sense won out and e walked around the town before grading for the golf club 10 mins away.

Lunch with a view.

Sensational bouillabaisse for lunch.

The golfer reported an excellent round. Great first 9 the. A very windy second 9. Quite a few lost balls!

Back to Launceston is Brady’s lookout.

Another quiet evening at the Central apartments.

Tropical Rain

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There is a distinct sound to tropical rain. It absolutely pelts down and the trees surrounding the house make dripping and drooping sounds.

Another swim in the rain followed by a simple breakfast. Life here is uncomplicated and quiet. If only we weren’t so worried about Jo.

We walked through the pelting rain to one of only two restaurants which are only open on odd days and odd hours. Today it’s open. We got big cups of coffee ( $16) and sat alone until a group of 4 came in with a local woman and sat near us.

Turns out they are journalists covering this area for a tourism promotion! Not a great time to be here. They shared their sweet pandan rolls with us and Paula our housekeeper arrived to chat and take them back to the house for more photos.

We went onto the Cocos Malay Museum. It’s small and the sign outside advises that if it’s locked ( it wasn’t ) to go to the shire office nearby and get the key.

We got in and spent some time absorbing what life would have been like. The Clunies-Ross family ran a huge copra business here. They employed many Malay people who stayed and became Australian citizens when they voted to stay with Australia.

We felt the museum would benefit from a retired person like Steve to add explanations to their displays. Perhaps he should offer to return and fiend time doing that.

We had ordered some curry puffs and spring rolls at the restaurant and went back to collect them. I got talking to the young man who took our money. ( 16 pieces for $54). Thomas from NZ met Ammanah when he moved to Perth. She was studying. They fell in love and I imagine it would have been hard for her Muslim family to accept Thomas. He decided to move to Cocos with her , convert to Islam and marry. He’s now employed by the local Council to run their waste management program.

They were just lovely to chat to and ask about life on Home Island. It’s very different to life on West Island. Home island is where the Cocos Malays live. Some travel back and forth for work.

Back at the house we shared our food with Wolf and Marion our Putin admirer.

Once again the afternoon was spent reading and playing a banangram. It was pouring. no wifi.

The other two couples usually eat and go to bed very early. So I prepared a cheese plate to share and we sat with Greg, Bruce and Atsuko for awhile. This is a dry island though guests at the house can bring some alcohol with them. You can’t buy it here. We’ve had a very small gin each evening. That’s it!

Our evenings are spent reading. And Steve seems to be able to sleep from 8.30 till 7. Amazing.

We’re hoping for news about our flight tomorrow evening at 6pm. It’s not looking promising. Jo and Martyn still have no idea of their medivac retrieval. Imagine if it were life threatening.

Walking in Home Island : Part 2

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We continue along the water front in sunshine.

Past the Museum and onto the gravel road leading to the beaches.

It was deserted and quiet. We waded out and out trying to get to water deep enough to swim. 🏊🏻‍♀️ very difficult!

Steve swam off and around to the next bay. I followed at a leisurely pace. It was gorgeous swimming. Not much yo look at. I didn’t spy any turtles or even any fish.

We dried off and walked to the top of the island. We were only a short spit away from Direction Island. This is the place everyone says is stunning. Because of the rain we haven’t made it over. We funny fancy going there for 5 hours sitting on a wet beach no matter how beautiful the water. But our host here Paula, said the bay here is just as beautiful.

We came to the island’s cemetery. I have seen a Muslim cemetery so was surprised to see there were two crosses in each small grave plot one tied with a head scarf. And over the graves a small umbrella to shade.

We walked back through the little township and stopped at the supermarket. Several families were shopping. It was much better stocked than the supermarket cooperative on West Island.

The rain was starting again but did we care? We were already wet!

Back to Oceanic House for lunch and a chat with Wolf & Marion. Their English is better than our German – though Steve’s was trying hard.. They were telling us all the things their Government are doing wrong. Sound familiar!!!!

Too many refugees have made it impossible. Turning off gas, coal and nuclear, thinking the sun & wind would provide enough electricity has lead to huge power shortages and high costs. Wolf was getting very passionate. He loves Australia and advises we do things more thoughtfully. We can only hope.

Our bedroom is large and comfortable and we spent some time reading and listening to the rain before dinner. Tonight fish curry. Just 1 serve. It was hot, it was spicy.

Wolf & Marion had something with sauerkraut and Bruce and Natsuko had noodles.

After dinner we sat in the lounge and chatted to Paula and Greg. Such a well travelled interesting couple.

Do look up her website. PaulaCornell.com

Off to bed with the rain pelting down. I haven’t eeen such continuous rain for a long time.

We won’t be leaving Tuesday according to Greg who was a pilot in the British airforce. Visibility will be against them when landing. This is also why the medivac plane can’t get here to pick up Jo.

We just have to wait. We might get lucky. Heavens knows we need a little luck on this holiday.

Sunny in Paradise……

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We had a locally made curry last night – the house managers get local people to provide a takeaway service to the house. It’s great. It saves cooking your own meal in the shared kitchen and the only 2 restaurants on the island are only open once it twice a week and not at all in the rain.

Our night was very peaceful – only waking to hear the rain pouring and then the call to prayer at 4am onwards.

When we woke the sun was struggling through. It looked completely different outside. The water opposite the house the most delicious aqua blue.

Outside our house

Paula provided us with a beautiful breakfast. Soaked oats and a bowl of exotic fruits, scrambled eggs and three types of local honey. Very delicious.

Paula Carnell along with her husband Greg have travelled from Somerset England to here to be house keepers for this house. One reason is to see the impact on bees this local environment has.

Paula studied art and became a very well successful artist painting on silk. Sge ran a successful card business. She produced a book of 40 paintings – After an illness put her out of action for nearly seven years it was during her slow recovery that she became interested in bees.

She started keeping bees and never looked back. She is studying to be a medical herbalist has a business called Creating a Buzz about Health. She is a bee consultant, artist , author of several books, traveller, podcaster and charming.

They are minding this house for a year. Adventurous! Paula wanted to keep bees in Cocos and they were offered this house to housekeep. They aren’t the managers. They simply ( or not so simply) do the house keeping.

Our walk this morning took us along the lagoon side of the island.

Come along with me……

Out the front door facing the water and a quick greeting to Bruce and Natsuko who were returning from fishing.

We saw the little beach in front but decided to head to the other end of the island while there was no rain.

We walked over some paving rocks with the stamp from Glasgow brickworks clearly visible. The Clunies-Ross family came from Glasgow when they arrived.

Past the original main gates

Along the waterfront

Past the houses. All the same.

The roads are paved some have fences.

We saw the Museum which we’ll visit tomorrow.

The supermarket has a little restaurant attached. Closed now because of the weather.

We arrive a the most gorgeous beach. Sandy white bottom crystal clear water turtles further out.

I’m going to post this now as wifi is so unstable. Rain presently torrential at 8am.

Part 2 of the walk will follow.

Sunny in Paradise……

/ brisbanefrannie / Leave a comment

We had a locally made curry last night – the house managers get local people to provide a takeaway service to the house. It’s great. It saves cooking your own meal in the shared kitchen and the only 2 restaurants on the island are only open once it twice a week and not at all in the rain.

Our night was very peaceful – only waking to hear the rain pouring and then the call to prayer at 4am onwards.

When we woke the sun was struggling through. It looked completely different outside. The water opposite the house the most delicious aqua blue.

Outside our house

Paula provided us with a beautiful breakfast. Soaked oats and a bowl of exotic fruits, scrambled eggs and three types of local honey. Very delicious.

Paula Carnell along with her husband Greg have travelled from Somerset England to here to be house keepers for this house. One reason is to see the impact on bees this local environment has.

Paula studied art and became a very well successful artist painting on silk. Sge ran a successful card business. She produced a book of 40 paintings – After an illness put her out of action for nearly seven years it was during her slow recovery that she became interested in bees.

She started keeping bees and never looked back. She is studying to be a medical herbalist has a business called Creating a Buzz about Health. She is a bee consultant, artist , author of several books, traveller, podcaster and charming.

They are minding this house for a year. Adventurous! Paula wanted to keep bees in Cocos and they were offered this house to housekeep. They aren’t the managers. They simply ( or not so simply) do the house keeping.

Our walk this morning took us along the lagoon side of the island.

Come along with me……

Out the front door facing the water and a quick greeting to Bruce and Natsuko who were returning from fishing.

We saw the little beach in front but decided to head to the other end of the island while there was no rain.

We walked over some paving rocks with the stamp from Glasgow brickworks clearly visible. The Clunies-Ross family came from Glasgow when they arrived.

Past the original main gates

Along the waterfront

Past the houses. All the same.

The roads are paved some have fences.

We saw the Museum which we’ll visit tomorrow.

The supermarket has a little restaurant attached. Closed now because of the weather.

We arrive a the most gorgeous beach. Sandy white bottom crystal clear water turtles further out.

I’m going to post this now as wifi is so unstable. Rain presently torrential at 8am.

Part 2 of the walk will follow.

Move to Home Island – in the rain

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The sun was out this morning and spirits lifted. But not for long. By the time we had breakfast and made some food for Jo and Martyn it had started to rain.

Martyn stayed at the clinic with Jo last night. It’s not a hospital so no night staff, no bed sheets – everything disposable as there is no laundry. A nurse left her medication and when they returned in the morning her pain was extremely uncomfortable.

We sat chatting trying to lift her spirits but the medivac wasn’t able to arrive so Jo & Martyn were feeling a little stressed.

Lovely Pete, our boat man from yesterday and Amy, the very capable nurse called to see Jo and promised to bring them some dinner tonight.

Amy the nurse and Pete the boat skipper arrived with a fish curry

We packed up and headed for the ferry to get us to Home Island. We have 3 nights at the historic Clunies-Ross home Oceania House built in 1893 built by the grandson of the original Scottish settler John who arrived in 1827after the islands were discovered by William Keeling in 1609.

The crossing took 30 mins. ( it would have taken the boys about 4 hrs to swim!) It was calm though rainy. Not like yesterday with waves that caused the boat to pitch up and down.

Looking from the wharf to where we set out yesterday!

Gary, the house caretaker met us and gave us a short tour of the island. It’s very different to West is. There are more people here and the houses are very different. It’s a Muslim community so there is a call to prayer sounded five times a day. And there is no alcohol.

We drive through the wet streets- some closed due to flooding! Gary pointed out the attractions and the best places to swim. His wife Paula met us on arrival at the house and explained a little about how it’s run. There are 6 bedrooms 3 with ensuites the other 3 share 2 bathrooms. Ours – the Daphne room is large with old world furniture and a view of the garden.

The lovely bedroom with a bathroom 70’s style! But functional.

Shared kitchen

There is a shared kitchen where you can keep your food and cook your meals. Or you can ask for a home cooked meal – they have a few Malay people who cook curries. We did that for tonight.

We unpacked and had a drink in our lovely room before going down for our curry. We shared the table with two other two couples.

Bruce and Natsuko from Perth and Wolf and Marion from Germany. The German couple in their late 70’s and 80 something are staying a month.

We had a little look around the house but are doing a tour with Gary tomorrow. He has all the historical details for us.

We miss our friends so much. Wish they were here enjoying this lovely old house. They are still stuck in the clinic wondering what’s going on. We’re all very worried for Jo.

Tomorrow we plan to go for a swim at a nearby beach. Even in the rain they said it’s beautiful and we’ll see turtles.

Quiet Day on Cocos

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We were up early with it bags packed ready for a picnic swimming day on Direction Island.

Best plans often get disrupted. This time by rain. It was raining quite heavily and we decided going to a deserted island – no matter how beautiful would not be the same in rain. For 5 hours. The ferry drops you at 9.30 and picks you up at 2.30.

So back to bed to restart our day later. Steve and Martyn had a visit from Peter the boat captain for tomorrow’s big swim. He took them to where they would be landing and discuss the route from Home island to here on West Island.

Jo & I caught up on our reading on the lovely verandah. We went walking in a break in the rain and ended up at Sally’s bakery. It it had closed. The only cafe and the 2-3 restaurants only open intermittently. Very strange.

We dropped into the supermarket and got some bread. $10 I don’t know how people live here. The prices are so expensive and it’s such a long way to go to get anywhere. It’s actually closer to Malaysia than Australia.

We browsed the little information centre / museum. Then headed back along the waterfront for lunch on our verandah.

Last night we’d gone up the Cocos club for a few drinks before dinner. But discovered the little restaurant that was down to open tonight was closed for the Year 10 formal. So we had to buy a frozen bbq pack to cook at home. It worked out beautifully. But the 2 glasses of wine made me sleepy so it was another early night. We are definitely settling into island life.

In the afternoon I went for another walk and spotted 4 black tipped sharks. Just off shore.

Then I found the old Government House. Government House, constructed in 1953, is an important symbol of Australian Government representation on the Cocos (Keeling) Islands.

It features a similar design to other houses in the area. It’s one story , suited to local climatic conditions and includes a formal driveway with white painted edges, fencing, a flag pole and area for entertaining. It is sited with ocean frontage.

I walked past the High School which goes to year 10.

And I adored all the frangipani trees either bouys handing in them.

We had dinner on our verandah. A carb load g for Steve and Martyn getting ready for their 9 km swim tomorrow.

Off to bed early to get ready for when Peter arrives with his boat to take us over the Home Island to swim back. Jo & I will travel on the boat to organise the feeds. Regular drink stops and a sugar hit to keep them going.

Our friend, Martyn Southall in raising some money for National Breast Cancer Foundation.

Martyn and Steve are both looking to do a 9 km swim at Cocos Island on Friday.

The link is below.

https://fundraise.nbcf.org.au/fundraisers/martynsouthall/swim-for-breast-cancer

If you’d like to know more or make a donation please use the link.

Wish them luck. The conditions are not ideal so we hope they make it.

Cocos Keeling Island – History

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Many people (including myself ) know about Cocos Islands. I have now read a lot about it and its history.

The islands were on the ancient trade route between India, Burma, and Southeast Asia and were regularly visited by ships. In the 16th century, Portuguese sailors named the islands after the Portuguese word for coconut, coco

The islands were then discovered in 1609 by the British sea captain William Keeling but no settlement occurred until the early 19th century. One of the first settlers was John Clunies-Ross, a Scottish merchant; much of the island’s current population is descended from the Malay workers he brought in to work his copra plantation. The Clunies-Ross family ruled the islands as a private fiefdom for almost 150 years, with the head of the family usually recognised as resident magistrate. The British annexed the islands in 1857, and for the next century they were administered from either Ceylon or Singapore. The territory was transferred to Australia in 1955, although until 1979 virtually all of the territory’s real estate still belonged to the Clunies-Ross family.

Charles Darwin spent 12 days at the Cocos (keeling) Islands in the Indian Ocean during the Voyage of HMS Beagle in 1836. He explored many parts of the archipelago, and collected a large number of geological, plant and animal specimens.

The Two World Wars saw the islands become targets due to their strategic position in the Indian Ocean. 

From 1944 to 1946 the tranquil islands came under military administration and buzzed with activity, home to thousands of military personnel.

The people of the Cocos Keeling Islands voted to become part of Australia in 1984. 

The islands are now an internationally significant habitat for wildlife, and a remote tropical paradise for tourists seeking adventure, culture and space to breathe

The island is home to some rare bird including the red foot booby bird. I remember when we were in Galapagos we saw the blue footed booby bird.

The red footed booby bird

Cocos is also home to the red crab. There are hundreds of them. Little ones to quite big ones who crossed the sandy road in front of us when we went cycling out to the yacht club yesterday.

The sunsets are also very special. Though we have had a lot of cloud cover tonights was rather lovely.

Tour da Cocos

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A lazy start to the day sitting on the verandah but not at all concerned that the weather looks a little cloudy. The breeze keeps the bugs and the rain away. Think positive.

The boys set off to organise e-bikes for us to discover the island. I haven’t ridden a bike for a few years but ‘they’ say you don’t forget.

Well, I’ve never ridden an e -bike. And yes, they help you move along at a cracking pace. But these bikes were soooo heavy, and very hard to manoeuvre. But we did it. All day ! We covered this little slice of paradise from north to south. Lots of kilometres.

First stop the cooperative supermarket. We were told to bring most of our food as the supermarket and restaurants are light on products and are only open certain days.

Our bags were crammed with cheese & crackers , jatz, fruit, cereal, wraps bagels ham etc etc. Frozen milk kept it all cold route. Lucky we did, as the supermarket had very empty shelves. Lots of deodorant? They definitely need it in the heat, but do the locals and visitors buy it at very inflated prices?

We visited the Big Barge. A unique barge repurposed into an Art Gallery and cafe. It’s by the water and a delightful spot for a coffee and sweet treat.

The barge built by the Clunies-Ross family on Home island and finally brought to West Island retired and opened as a gallery.
The history of the barge
I had to have a little swing.
With friends Jo and Martyn

Back on the bikes and along to Trannies Beach – which we renamed Frannies Beach!

A beautiful swim in crystal clear water with colourful fish and tons of busy crabs going about their business.

Martyn leaping out of the water.

A quick dry off and back in the bikes to next stop the jetty where the ferry leaves for Home island and Direction Island ( voted the most beautiful beach in Australia) – and we’re going tomorrow.

The boys looking at the lagoon across to Home island.

Thursday, the boys will be swimming across the lagoon. Partly for a challenge but mostly to raise funds for breast cancer. Jo has made a good recovery from breast cancer and Martyn wants to continue to raise awareness and much needed funds. I will include a link if you’d like to donate a $ towards it.

The weather isn’t great but it’s not boiling hot! That’s a positive.

We cycled back to Waves our house here and enjoyed lunch on the deck before setting off to the other end of the island to the Yacht Club.

Beautiful beaches.

The photo doesn’t show the colours!
Attractive reef shoes for these beautiful beaches.

The Yacht Club was a disappointment! Not an icy drink in sight. But pristine beaches.

Back to Waves for a well deserved shower and Gin & Tonic on the verandah.

Tonight we’re going to the Cocos club. There’s not much alcohol on these islands but there is at the Cocos club. But dinner! They don’t do food. The restaurant that’s open tonight is only for a school function!!! But they supply a bbq pack which we’ll cook at home on our verandah. Not a disappointment.

Apparently there are a few little sharks.