Our day started early. We received a wake up call at 6.30 – but not for us. For someone flying out ! We were already up and preparing for a day on South Sea Island.
The breakfast room was buzzing. Swimmers were all keeping the food stations busy. A big demand for bananas emptied the bowl quickly!
We sensibly had eggs to keep us going. And toast with the famous local peanut butter.
Getting in the bus the photographer called ‘Got your swimmers?’ One lady obviously didn’t hear that. On the island there was another call ‘anyone got some size 14 ladies swimmers’ poor lady.
We got the bus to the marina and once all 200 were on board we set off. The weather was cloudy. The wind a little brisk. We met some new people onboard. That’s the special thing about swimming holidays. The people are usually very friendly and down to earth. It’s a bit hard to be a pain or posh in your swimmers with a cap and goggles on.
Thirty minutes later we were in a smaller boat being shipped to shore. It’s the cutest little island. Usually home to back packers – they had been moved off for the day to visit other islands to allow us to have the whole island.
Conditions were not as good as we hoped but Jill and I decided we would try the swim around the island. About 1km.
We watched the big group go off then started behind them.
Along came Deanne a new friend from Brisbane. She had started with the race goers then decided – it’s too tough. She got out then saw us going in so joined us. But … ……..
Mistake 1. It was very shelly, coral bedding leading into the water and we didn’t have our reef shoes on so Ouch!
Mistake 2 We didn’t swim out far enough and before long came to a rocky shelf with small waves pushing us. I got snagged on a rock then immediately got worried about my new knee. So much rough rock and coral. I couldn’t get a cut on the new knee. The infection would be a disaster. So there I am I’m trying back off the rocks.
My swimmers got a small hole in the front. Better my swimmers than my skin.
We swam about 3/4 of the island before deciding to swim in. Alas, more coral and I couldn’t stand up. One of the beautiful Fijian helpers came to my rescue and hauled me to my feet.
Feeling relieved I’d made it back I asked myself. What were you thinking! I have no antibiotics and a coral cut gets infected very quickly. From now on sensible me.
Chris swam almost to the end but got out early as did lots of swimmers.
Next race – the 3km. They cut it back to 2km Steve, David, Kim and new friend Avy lined up all smiles.
It was tough out there but Steve did his best and Avy, a pocket rocket came in 13th overall and Kim not far behind ! Beating Steve and David!
It was a mighty effort from them all.
Ky Hurst ( former lifesaving champion and Olympian ) is the guest swimmer and won the race by a long way! He had also swum earlier with his 11yr old son in the 1 k race. His son came 2nd. And he’s only 11. A champion in the making.
Swimming over it was relaxing time with a bbq lunch and an open bar.
Then it was time for the traditional welcome.
The afternoon drifted on until it was time to return on the boat.
Back on the small boat. Out to the large boat and back to the hotel. Some very tired people on board.
Showers in the hotel were very welcome. A little rest then off to the drinks party.
They had the swim results up.
Steve did well. Avy came first in the over 70’s and 13th overall. What a champ! Kim came 5th in her age group. Steve 6th and David 7th.in the over 70’s
The party included a video of the days activities. Lots of fun recalling the day.
Scott Rice the organiser. The colourful Coolangatta girls!
The evening finished with pizza on the verandah and a wee drink.
Another day and another swim tomorrow. This time it’s outside it resort.
We woke this morning to grey cloudy skies – but by mid morning it was warm and sunny. Perfect.
Breakfast was in a large airy garden room with lots of food stations scattered around. Everything from tropical fruits – where the bananas look green but are beautifully ripe inside to delicious locally made peanut butter for the many varieties of toast. Smoothies, pancakes, crafted omelettes, chocolate crackles, Asian food , vegetables. You name it was there.
I ordered coffee at the drinks station. And asked for lactose free milk. The young Fijian said they didn’t have any but offered almond. When he delivered it to me he brought a half carton of lactose free milk to put in my fridge. He said he was lactose free and had some in his room. So very kind. A little reward coming his way !
As we finished we heard the sounds of singers warming up. A small choir of a cappella voices. The men and women were so into it – smiling and singing. They sing farewell to guests leaving. Or for birthdays. It’s a song saying thank you for choosing Sofitel!
After checking out the activities board we decided it was an aqua class for us.
A bit different to my usual class at Centenary pool it was still lots of fun and a way to stay cool. Jill and I followed up with a swim in the sea.
Jill, Kim and me – in the blue hat.
Tomorrow the choices are …..
If you haven’t been to Fiji, it’s a beautiful laid back place. The locals are sweet and kind and love children. And they love a chat. I’m writing this sitting on a deck chair beside the pool. No less than 4 different staff have approached me to ask if they can get me anything! But mostly to chat.
Nearby local ladies are braiding hair and giving neck and shoulder massages.
Around me are families with assorted children – most with braided beaded hair, couples enjoying some quiet time. Families over various generations. In fact Fiji is perfect for grandparents to bring their children and grandchild. There’s something for everyone.
After Aerobics we took the short 15 min walk to the Marina. Lots of boats leave from here for the islands. I expected market type stalls but there is a little shopping and eating precinct. So we had some lunch before walking through lush gardens back to the hotel.
Crossing the bridge back to the hotel The little bus we could have used to get to the marina. David, Chris and Steve
I went to the little trading post this morning. We have a complimentary bar in our room with about 10 cans of assorted drinks, chocolate and chips. You can use as much as you like and it’s replaced each day OR you can trade it a little store. 6 cans is equal to one bottle of wine or bubbles or 2 local beers equals one imported beer. It’s quite a unique set up. I traded the coke, sprite lemonade and kombucha for a bottle of wine! So there’s the 5 pm drinks all ready.
Tonight we have our welcome party for the 200 swimmers.
The organisers are a NZ couple who have run this event for a few years. It’s great.
We arrived and got our swim bag of goodies. A locally made swim bag with local products. Creams, lip balm, ear drops, water bottle, and a lanyard for all the events.
We arrived to a big Bula welcome.
Me surrounded by the Fijian welcome group!
Our group of six expanded to 8. We welcomed Avy, a Chicago born lawyer who married an English man whom she met at master swim event back in 1988 in Brisbane and now lives in NZ. Then there was Tobin. A Texan cattle man who happens to swim and who helps people who need a hand. He started Crosswater Journey aimed at helping families and individuals who have been impacted by suicide. They are helped by professionals and eventually Tobin does a symbolic journey – he swims and tows a small boat with someone who needs a hand.
He was such an interesting fun man.
The evening was perfect. Under the stars and trees, a slight breeze , lovely music with a singer guitar player , meeting likeminded swimmers from about 6 nations ( mostly Australians ).
Yes it’s a hot one in Adelaide. Quite the heat wave going on here. But so different to Brisbane which swamps you with humidity. Here is a searing dry heat.
We manage – helped along by Margs beautiful ducted aircon.
Our friends Peter ( Macca) and Elizabeth from Crescent Heads are long time friends from waterpolo days. We met poolside in Sydney after our sons were selected in the Australian under 21 side. they looked like fun so I suggested we share a place in Naples where the world champs were held in July 2003. Now we catch up and travel together.
Elizabeth found a tour, a tasting and lunch at Penfolds winery Magill. It’s just on the edge of the city.
A beautiful collection of old buildings which are still in use today producing the Penfolds renowned Magill Eatate wine.
The family developed the wine business starting in 1844 in the Magill area of Adelaide. This stands today as the closest winery in the city though most of the grapes are grown in the Barossa and other wine areas.
The legendary wine maker Max Schubert put the winery on the map with his Grange series. As part of the tasting after the tour we got to try the Grange as well as the Magill Estate. And their Chardonnay is a good taster as well!
After tasting six wines we were ready to eat. So off to the Magill restaurant for a delicious lunch. Italian Burrata is a favourite of mine now and made a lovely start to lunch. Followed by Kingfish ceviche I was very happy. Catching up with Elizabeth and Peter is a great treat. We’ve travelled together many times during and after our sons Waterpolo careers. World championships, Olympic Games and trips to NY and we travel happily with many laughs.
The lunch crowd was in full flight. It is obviously a popular place with locals as well as visitors to Adelaide. Next up was a tasty piece of beef and honeycomb chocolate mousse. By now I was done!
We had met another couple during the tour and tasting and they joined us for coffee. George and Francesca from Scotland. Such a lovely couple we shared many travel stories and laughs as the afternoon slipped away.
Peter, George Francesca myself and Steve after a very long lunch!
After nearly 9 weeks , multiple beds , thousands of miles driven, meals eaten, Gins drunk, beds slept in , showers negotiated, meeting lovely friends, seeing unbelievable scenery, taking hundreds of photos , walked kilometres……. It’s time for home.
But first we have a few more friends to visit.
We said goodbye to John & Lisa our ‘in laws’ who are so much fun to travel with and flew to LA.
It always amazes me that our beautiful fun friends Dan & Izzy Garr live about 10 mins from LA airport but when you get there it’s a quiet children friendly suburb. Westchester is great. Only 11 mins to the beach Dan swims at most days, 29 mins from Dan’s work called Hot Buttered Elves, a design place where he invents – products , toys and makes models for movies. It’s 15 mins from Izzy’s work at Mattel, where she is head of the design team for Barbie.
As you can tell they are creative. And their sons Max , 21 is studying Film at College and Luke 15 is at school.
Our first night with them Dan cooked up a storm for us. Beautiful home cooked chicken Cordon Bleu parcels. Their kitchen is a cook’s paradise.
The next day they both had work commitments so Steve and I had a very late start and headed off up to Paradise Cove – a favourite spot of Dans. It’s by the beach up past Malibu. We had a beach walk and an early lunch before heading back and stopping at Culver City shopping mall to check out an LA mall. Much the same as ours!
Izzy was waiting for us when we returned. She really wanted to take us to her workplace’s toy store. It’s full of toys all made by Mattel. She said ‘ you really have to take your little grandsons some toys’ . I wish I had prepared better. It’s like Aladdin’s cave and I couldn’t decide. I was limited by size as we still had a flight from San Diego to San Francisco. But I managed a bag of toys. Thanks Izzy. Big staff discount as well.
Back at their house Dan was preparing for dinner. He is a super cook !
They kindly invited our friend Betty (my wing woman in Galapagos and Turkey swim treks ) and her husband Craig.
What a fun night. Dan has a big open teppanyaki grill and did the fried rice. Then there was the bbq – fish , scallops, beef, chicken. Enough for an army.
Dan in action. Steve with Izzy & Dan With Betty my ‘wing woman swim friend ‘ we swam in Galapagos and Turkey – next year Egypt.
We had the best night. Betty’s husband Craig has amazing stories of his time in the US airforce as a lawyer. As a cook he was …. But with Dans encouragement he was great.
Another wonderful night with friends. and a 🛌🛌🛌 bed rating. What comfort.
Saturday we headed down the 405 – the freeway south. It was super busy and fast so we got off and took the scenic road through the beaches.
There was an airshow at Huntington Beach. People everywhere.
We continued south to San Capistrano. It’s a mission established in the late 1700’s when the Mexican Catholics lived in this area.
We called in briefly to the outlet centre. Steve bought more than I did!
We arrived at our friends Ben & Sharon. We met Ben on our first ever swim trek but have caught up about 5 times since. He and Dan & Izzy are old friends. I’d never met his wife Sharon as she said swims are his thing! But we hit it off.
Their house in Del Mar just north of Dan Diego is beautiful. They are still doing renovations but they welcomed us and we had a 🛌🛌🛌 stay.
After a glass or two of Veuve 🥂we headed off to a jazz night. Their son Eric is in a group at his school and they were the opening act for a more established group. We had dinner there and a great night.
And a good sleep. Thankfully as our flight home is 11.50 tonight!
This morning Ben & Steve walked down the hill to the beach and Sharon & I slept in. around 9.30 we headed down for breakfast with son Eric. A great cafe.
Eric & Sharon at the cafe.
We had a great walk around the area.
Beautiful beach side. Ben & Eric surf! Cute houses in the area. Bars with a view for happy hour.
Before long it was time to leave. Many hugs later we headed off.
A little detour to La Jolla just a few kilometres south. This is where Rob & Jordan stayed for a few months after leaving NY during covid. Leo has run his toes through the sand here !
A beautiful piece of coast.
Finally…….. the airport. A flight to San Francisco where we are now drinking a glass of bubbles thinking how lucky we are to have enjoyed a long ….. long ….. trip and still be loving it all.
But I’m ready for home. For our sons, our daughter in laws , especially our grandsons, my friends, the pool.
🎶Welcome to the hotel California 🎶 Another song popping into my mind!
We landed in Sacramento to be met by Lisa and John – our daughter in law , Jordan’s parents. They live in Lodi abut 45 mins away. We’re so fortunate to get along so well.
They were to be in Yellowstone but got covid. But now here we are and head off to Yosemite together.
John cooked a wonderful omelette with veg from the garden. The bed is super comfortable and the shower is the best! The laundry got done is this definitely a 🛌🛌🛌🛌 stay.
After eating and packing we headed off to Yosemite about 3 hours away. We had a few stops along the way.
First stop was exciting. We’d heard about the dispensaries in California – for marijuana products. It’s legal here and so common. So Lisa and John stopped just so I could see it.
In we went. We had to show ID and register and then the doors opened and we were in a room with lots of products hanging in colourful rows. Like a sweet shop.
I chatted to the man asking about something for pain and swelling on my knee. He showed me patches. Explained their use. It is a CBG product. Not the one banned in Australia. So I took two patches.
Then I asked about sleep. There are gummies, lotions and patches. I took another two. How exciting I thought. I’ll use one tonight.
Outside of The Dispensary
Next stop was a very cute little town called Angels Camp. Famous for its frog races they have plaques dedicated to the winners of the frog jumping competitions. Mark Twain wrote about the frog jumping to let the US readers know about it. The Celebrated Jumping Frog of Calaveras County,” by Mark Twain, is a tall tale about a man who bets on anything and wagers that his frog can out-jump a stranger’s frog, with surprising results.
Coffee called at Groveland. There’s a little coffee shop there where I had the best coffee in 8 weeks. It’s run by a young German man.
The Main street had lots of models !
And an interesting bar.
It was into wonderful scenery as we headed towards Yosemite. It is so good to have John driving pointing out things along the way.
There is some magnificent scenery as we arrive in the Yosemite valley.
We checked into The Awanhnee Hotel. it’s an iconic grand old hotel. Lucky us. Lisa & John organised it for us. A few days of relaxation in a beautiful place.
The side of the hotel. View from our bedroom.
We took a walk before afternoon drinks. Down the meadow. Over the bridge. The views.
Dinner was just lovely in a beautiful room. But unfortunately not the main dining room. It’s having renovations. It was so good to share it all with John & Lisa.
Off to bed in our 3🛌🛌🛌 hotel room.
Day 2:
Breakfast was very simple before we headed off to Yosemite Lodge for a 2 hour tram travel through the Yosemite Valley floor.
We sat in an open train/ tram with a guide who grew up in the Yosemite valley as part of the Indian tribe of the area.
She explained the history of the park., including the types of plants and trees.
El Capitan
We paused to look at El Capitan rock and could see some brave climbers. We watched for awhile as the climbers slowly inched up.
After the little tour we got the car to tour up to Glacial Point. No! We didn’t hike up. The weather was beautiful and Lisa had packed a picnic with a lovely bottle of bubbles to share. Outstanding views of Hal Dome and other mountains – most higher than Mount Kosciusko!
Back down the winding road, another little stop for a walk then back to our lovely room for a nap before dinner.
Day 3:
A walk first up to Mirror Lake. About an hours walk. The mornings are cool especially walking in the shade of the sequoia trees.
Walking for about 40 minutes we arrived at the creek and the lake which after summer is more a small lake – puddle.
Still reflecting though lacking water The boulders have fallen from the mountains after glacial movement.
Back to the hotel for a late checkout.. I could easily stay longer.
Taking our time to drive home we had lunch at Groveland in a cute Mexican place before driving through the vineyard area surrounding Lodi. Lodi is one of the big wine areas of California. Napa gets the publicity but Lodi has a great wine industry.
Then it was family time. John’s mother Anne came over. Jordans brother Joseph, wife Taci and their three children came over for swim and early dinner.
The twin boys are just a few months younger than Leo. They even look a little alike. Poppy is 5 and very funny and talkative. Very gorgeous children.
It was a big happy noisy family dinner. Then they all went off to bed and we just chatted. John & Lisa made us so welcome and we are good travel buddies. We’ll be seeing them next Wednesday in Brisbane. They are coming over for Alby’s christening and first birthday.
Tomorrow is a travel day to LA to stay two nights with Dan & Izzy Garr. We met Dan on our first ever swim trek and love seeing them. Then a night in San Diego with Ben & Sharon Maisek – another swim friend.
Then Home Sweet Home. Fingers crossed the threatened workers strike doesn’t happen on Sunday as predicted. It could affect flights!
The weather cleared and we farewelled Jackson as we headed off on our big adventure.
Every time I mention Yellowstone people say look out for Kevin Costner ! From the TV series of the same name. Have you watched it? Rumour has it that he bought a ranch here years ago ( after making Dances with Wolves ) and he’s just sold it.
I purchased an app for guiding us through the two NP. Tetons ( meaning two teats or breasts so named by the French when first travelling here ) this will be like having a guide in the car with us. Our supposed to be travel companions Lisa & John suggested it. Then they got covid and couldn’t come with us. So I bought one called Shaka. It was recommended and comes with full GPS guidance and will work without wifi.
The Grand Tetons. Part of the Rockies.
We headed out of Jackson and the first stop was the Mormon houses. They travelled to this area and set up farms around 1846. The structures that remain from early Mormon settlers are framed perfectly with an amazing view of the eastern side of the Tetons
Now unused Mormon house & barn. Tetons behind.
Next stop was Snake River. Not because it’s shaped like a snake but is named for the Snake Indians, the Shoshone, through whose country the greater part of the river flows. The Indians, in turn, were named “Snake” by their Plains neighbours to the east, possibly because they reputedly used snake heads painted on sticks to terrify their Plains enemies.
Taking a walk along the river we looked for beavers but only saw ducks and artists.
Next stop was the tiny Catholic Church which holds services only in summer. It’s a tiny dark wood church with one stained glass window.
We entered the park paying the $ 30 fee which definitely goes to a good cause to maintain these parks. It’s good for 7 days.
Straight to thermal activity at West Thumb. The thermal activity caused by being on top of the caldera from thousands of years ago.
The pools are amazing as the colours alter depending on size, heat, age. The boardwalks around the thermal activity make it easy to see them up close.
A selection of the thermal pools.
As you can see the pools are all different in size and colour. I’d love to pop into one – but the heat coming off them remind you they are twice boiling point. So …. No swims.
After walking and admiring the elk – who stand in the steam to keep warm apparently, we headed to Old Faithful.
This is the area with the biggest – of everything. Including the biggest geyser. There are 4 big ones and several smaller one right outside the hotel.
View from the verandah of our lodge
The original Inn is a massive, completely wood structure. Built in 1903 it’s made with local logs and stone, the inn is considered the largest log structure in the world. The towering lobby has a massive stone fireplace and a hand-crafted clock made of copper, wood and wrought iron serving as focal points.
We’ve stayed two nights in Old Faithful Lodge cabins. Very basic but they have a bathroom. The big Old Faithful Inn has a lot of rooms but some without bathrooms.
The newer Snow Lodge has rooms and cabins
Part of the chimney
There are three stories of balconies overlooking the main floor. A pianist entertains while people sit, read and wait for dinner. It is so big and so many people are staying, the restaurant, though huge struggles. Even with a booking you have to queue up. The only booking John could get when booking in months ago was 8.45. What !
It was an excruciating time to wait. After our long travel days we like earlier nights. The dining room when we finally got there is massive. A big fireplace , huge wagon wheel chandeliers, etched glass, enormous timber railings, timber timber everywhere.
When you sit for dinner your ‘server’ introduces themselves and starts up a pleasant chat. They are all lovely and I guess hoping for a generous tip. Their wages are still not as good as hospitality workers in Australia so rely on tips.
Day 2.
Our time in the big Y continues……
It was cold last night and snow was predicted. We still managed to be out in the cool by 8.30. Lots to see.
Yellowstone is accessed by a ring road shaped like an 8. We’re staying two nights in the lower left circle of the 8. The park is divided into west and east and we are exploring most of the western thermal areas in one and a half days. Then exploring the eastern side which has sweeping views that rival the Grand Canyon and has more valleys with the big animals. The bison, elk, a wolf if we’re lucky , moose, birds, fox. We’ll have to keep our eyes peeled. When you see cars pulled over and people all looking in one direction you know something has been spied!
Today’s highlights are many. The thermal pool are great.
There are rangers all over but this one looked a classic.
Yogi said ‘the Ranger’s coming Boo- Boo!’’
The board walks circle the pools making it easy to view them up close.
The red pool. The forests and rivers are stunning.
We made lots of little stops along the way. The tracks are easy most of the time. Though there are much longer, harder trails.
We got to Mammoth on the top of the 8. A lunch break under the trees needing padded jacket , hat and gloves.
The big food area. We bought snacks for a picnic.
The highlight of Mammoth was seeing all the elk in town. They took over the town. Rangers had to direct people and cars away from them.
The big daddy with the big antlers
We drove to the northern gate especially to go through the Arch.
Enter Yellowstone National Park from the north and you’ll see the iconic Roosevelt Arch. Completed on August 15, 1903, the massive stone structure offers a glimpse into the park’s early years.
Back in those days, before the mass production of the automobile, vacationers travelled by train. Before 1903, trains brought passengers up to Cinnabar, Montana., where people would then get into horse-drawn carriages to enter the park’s sweeping landscape. That year, however, with the Northern Pacific Railway’s extension to Gardiner, Mont., visitors would now have easier access.
Our last night we had dinner at the Snow Lounge restaurant. You can’t book so we sat in the sky lounge looking out at the geyser had a drink and saw the first line disappear into the restaurant …..then you can put your name down and get a buzzer. Much better idea.
Dinner was delicious.
Day 3:
Today we drove to Norris and then went East across the middle of the 8 to Canyon.
We set off along the eastern loop , the canyon & valley (and a few more thermal areas) side. With our handy audio guide and map on the car satnav we were guided to all the great spots to see something interesting or, to walk or find a good picnic spot.
We gathered information at the Visitors Centre and then headed north to the top of the 8
Once again stunning. It had snowed last night and the trees were dusted with snow.
Out of the high area of forest and back down to the plains and along to Lamar Valley. We weren’t disappointed.
We saw the big bison close up. They came and crossed in front of us. Then we spotted an owl. And I was particularly pleased to see a Yellowstone Pronghorn. It’s often mistaken for an antelope.
Well hello Mr Bison
We looped back and started in the lower part of the 8. Driving south we drove the upper rim of what they call Yellowstone Grand Canyon. The river gathers speed and power as it enters the canyon then BOOM. Down it goes as a waterfall. We had to walk down a steep path for 2km to see the water fall up close. That meant 2 km back up. As you can tell my knee has improved. It will ache tonight but no walking stick!
After a long walk down.
We continued south to our new cabin for tonight. Lake Lodge. It’s in Yellowstone Lake which is big ( everything here is big)
Our cabin is good. Better than Old Faithful. We checked in & rushed to our very early dinner. John had made bookings ages ago and had to take what he could get. Tonight was 5.30. But that suited. ( better than 8.45 the other night) The dining room was beautiful and we could see the lake. The meal was delicious . Once again I had trout. We then sat in the lounge and did some catching up. FaceTimed Ollie our grandson in Bali. Met a lovely man from Ghent. Watched some young people playing pickle ball ( remember said it was a big craze here) .
View from the dining room.
Our time in Yellowstone had been great. It’s a big NP but talk about lots on offer ! There are thermal pool, geysers, mountains, canyons, plains, herds of animals, lakes, and snow!
Our last sunset from the lodge.
HINTS:
There are 5 main stops in Yellowstone: Old Faithful, Canyon Village, Mammoth Hot Springs, Fishing Bridge- Lake Village & West Thumb . These have Visitors Centres, General Stores & a few other facilities.
If you are planning a trip, think about where to stay to avoid backtracking too much. That’s if you’ve only got 3 nights. If you have more time then two nights in each spot.
We had two nights in Old Faithful , one at Lake Lodge. Doing it again, even though you’d move each day I’d say 1 in Old Faithful, 1 at Mammoth Falls, 1 at Lake Hotel or Lodge cabin. Depending on your budget……. The cabins are great – though a little basic ( lake lodge is good. ) maybe a hotel room ? In saying that, I like the quietness of the cabins.
Book everything ahead.
Some people like to stay at the towns just outside the Park itself. This would be cheaper & offer more variety of eating options. This could be good though depending on the day you could queue to get into the park. This morning when we left by the West Yellowstone gate the queue was at least 1km long and moving slowly.
Tickets : the first time you enter the Park you pay $30 and that is good for 7 days. So you can come and go. Stay at Jackson, West Yellowstone, even Cody an hour away.
Summer here would be so busy, it might get hard moving around. We’re here in Sept 20-24 and it’s quite busy though they are winding down. Staff has decreased. Minor roads ( little loop roads to walks or views) will start to close. Though it could be lovely with snow!
As we drive songs keep popping into my head. Today it was Calamity Jane’s ‘Oh, the Deadwood stage is rollin’ over the plains’. 🎶. She’s is buried here in Deadwood. Next to Wild Bill Hickok.
Wild Bill. We visited the graves in Deadwood
Calamity Jane, along with A.W. Merrick, Sol Star, and Al Swearengen all shaped Deadwood from a rough mining town to an iconic western town. Prospectors scoured the area for the smallest flecks of gold in the 1800s. Gold mining was huge.
Deadwood is not a great name for a town.
It was a pretty driving afternoon after leaving Badlands and heading towards Mt Rushmore.
We left Badlands and had a few stops along the way to explore.
First stop was the amazing store in Wall called Wall Drug. It’s a huge place with restaurants and lots if stalls full of …… stuff.
Hard to describe the Walk Drug Store
The it was Keystone. Another town with American Indian influence .
Keystone
We stopped in Keystone ( these names have me chuckling and singing) before moving onto Mt Rushmore.
The story of how Mt Rushmore came about is so interesting and it’s really quite awesome to see.
The 4 famous Presidents…. can you name them ?
Of course it’s well laid out. 6 layers of parking a big open mall walking up through the state flags. A good movie and museum gave us the story of the sculptures.
We walked the trail and chatted to a few people along the way.
Spotted a few tipis or tepee along the way
Arriving into Deadwood surprised us. I didn’t realise it is a big gambling town. Lots of cute shops in Main St. But they all turned out to be full of poker machines & poker tables. And a big lack of restaurants.
The gambling places offered burgers. That’s it. So I found a place that did take away nachos and we went back to our very big comfortable room and Steve watched football.
Lots of cowboy bars.
Tomorrow we head to Cody. Cody is a town in northwest Wyoming famous for Buffalo Bill Center. We’ll be seeing Devil’s Tower and Big Horn National Park.
We left Chicago to travel to Winona leaving Illinois and arriving in Michigan.
We had a rain storm which was awful. Steve decided we should pull over. He couldn’t see. Cars and trucks passed by so closely that the car shook.
Steve put on hazard lights we waited awhile. It eventually eased.
By the time we reached Winona the sun was out. The drive along the mighty Mississippi River was beautiful. What a river – and this is just the headwaters!
Our BnB called Alexander Mansion is a big grand house with a dominating corner position.
An original photo from the 1880’s
Owner Richard answered the door. Richard and his partner David bought this place about 8 years ago and are happily running an excellent BnB in a small out of the way town.
We were his first Australians. He was fascinated. ‘What brings you to Winona !’
The library
Richard loves a chat and instead of showing us our room insisted on a house tour , a glass of wine , told us dinner options, library inspection, painting explanations, ……
The organ which he invited me to play
He very helpfully told us about 2 good restaurants. We chose the Fish Hut. It was slightly out of town over looking the mighty Mississippi. He was spot on. It was great. I had a catfish ! Done in a spicy coating with mango salsa. Steve felt like a steak and said it was great.
We got back to the house. It was very quiet so we took his advice and sat in the large library with a glass of wine he’d left us and read about the history of the place.
Up the stairs to bed.
Back in our room Richard had left us a nightcap – a Baillie’s and a chocolate.
The room was beautiful. Floral, wood furniture , lamps everywhere, an old radio playing classical music.
I wish I could say the big high bed was comfortable but it had a dip in it and we both woke up with aching bits.
The bathroom was gorgeous and original.
He had made a point about breakfast being at 9am with all guests. He was going to give us a big wholesome breakfast. He likes his guests to chat and bond. We knew we had a long drive to Badlands National Park the next day but he was so disappointed we agreed to stay.
Only problem was we woke very early and decided we needed to get going. He was sad and showed us the beautifully set table snd gave us a banana to see us on our way at 7.30.
This gave us time to stop at The Corn Palace in Mitchell an historical old town. A tribute to the corn that grows here, there is a huge palace type building all decorated with corn. The displays outside the building are changed each year to a theme. Inside is a big entertainment area. They regularly have basketball (the local team is the Mitchell Kernels!) and concerts – and there was a great display of all the artists who have played there. From Bob Hope to Tommy Dorsey.
We’re pleased we left early because we arrived at Badlands early enough to do a few walks through this incredible landscape. It’s well set out and just amazing
Tonight we are in the Badlands motel. It’s basic and cheap. Close to the park and just fine. Air con is blasting away as it unseasonably hot.
We’re eating at the Wagon Wheel having a burger. Chicken. Does that count? A real cowboy bar. Drinking Budweiser watching Miami vs New England in American Football, trying not to think of the Wallabies losing to Fiji in the Rugby.
The sunsets here are amazing.
I love a good sunset.
Tonight we went along to the ranger chat at the caravan park. The first session was on the types of fossils found in the park.
The second session was probably the best night sky session I’ve ever been to.
We even saw Elon Musks satellites running in a row across the sky. We saw so many of the brightest stars and the Milky Way so clearly.
This is a photo from the internet but it looked just like this. Moving quickly across the sky.
Every city has its personality and coming to Chicago I can’t help but feel the love of building here.
Our expert guide on the Architecture cruise yesterday talked passionately about the buildings in this city. It doesn’t want to be the poor relation to NYC so has developed its own ‘thing ’
And the thing is architecture. The buildings are breathtaking and many are very environmentally conscious. I’ll include a few photos from our cruise down the river. The river adjoins into the giant Lake Michigan & is shaped like a Y. It’s divided and each arm has its own style. And there are many bridges.
The names of the types of architecture : there is contemporary , art deco, mid century modernism, beaux arts, and trump style. Big !
Willis Tower and next door a pink / blue building with a crown! A car park like a children’s toy with a boat garage underneath Making a statement Mr TrumpReflection
It goes on and on.
I also did the Skywalk. I visited what was the tallest building in the world. I zoomed up 103 levels and was greeted by views. In every direction.
It was a grey day so it would have been more stunning yesterday but it was still amazing. I skirted around all sides of the building. Trying to capture the height. I’m not at the selfie. Steve didn’t come up. He’d been before so saved the $US 44 !
I took the plunge and went out onto the skywalk. The clear perspex overhanging walk. First step felt eerie but then ….
Then I loved it. All 103 floors up See the river below.
Whilst I was dancing in the clouds Steve was walking and checking out the street art, the buildings and an Aussie pie shop
Chicago your style is great. From Frank Lloyd Wright to modernism.
To finish our day we had what should have been a 4-5 hour drive to Winona, as we start our route 90 drive. We hit the most incredible rain storm. I was terrified.
But we made it ……..to our BnB called Alexander Mansions. Just wait for my report on this place !
I’ve combined two days into one in this post. So much is happening!
The Amish countryside is peaceful , quiet like stepping back in time to a simpler life.
The countryside is a rich farming area and the farms predominantly owned and run by the Amish people are beautifully kept.
The towns in this area worth exploring are Berlin, Charm, Walnut Creek, as well as pottering up and down the much smaller roads reviewing the farms.
Everywhere you will see the buggies being driven by mum or dad. Mum in the traditional head piece and simple plain fabric dress. Bearded Dad is in work pants, braces and a straight brimmed hat.
Today I wore my simple grey dress and if I’d added the headpiece I would have almost fitted in. No makeup. Simple hairstyle.
There is a lot of corn growing here and it’s the sweetest corn ever.
We went into Berlin and found barns full of furniture rustic in style and made by the Amish people. Also all manner of bibs and bobs. lots of flower stalls and fruit stalls and as Thanksgiving is approaching, pumpkins everywhere.
Driving along you must be patient as you’ll often find yourself behind a buggy. Also cycles are now popular – ones with electric motors to get them up and down the undulating hills.
We stopped in Charm for a few things at their general store where we were served by the loveliest Amish girls. They have the best sweet peaches here!
In the afternoon we arrived in Millersberg. Once again the County Courthouse dominated the centre of town right at its only set of lights.
We stayed in the Millersberg Hotel an oldy worldy place with a baby grand in the parlour, carpet runners and an enormous bedroom with two double beds and a huge bathroom.
Steve caught up on his washing. Travelling makes it hard to wash clothes. We washed everything at Lynn’s in NY and I wash little bits every night. But all the space meant washing and hanging to almost dry in the morning and final drying in the car.
Dinner was Mexican ! Strange but great choice. I had a margarita as big as my head and Steve a thirst quenching beer. We felt bad because other people sitting around us in the restaurant were Amish and they had water.
As you can see from photos I’m wearing my black white checked dress a lot. It’s perfect for the climate along with my plain grey Amish dress. In Scotland I wore jeans and black pants with a light jumper / shirt/ puffer. Here’s it’s warm not really hot. Perfect touring weather.
When we left this beautiful area early the next morning it was misty and cloudy and again the countryside looked prosperous.
We detoured on the way into Chicago. We stopped to look at Notre Dame University. What a campus it is.
Centre piece at Notre DameThe Mosaic at the Library at this Catholic University
Our sat nav , which is great, confused us a few times. The lady started with the directions then said ‘ I’m sorry …… I’ll start again’.
Not once but on two separate occasions. So funny.
We made it to Chicago through a freeway traffic jam. Our hotel is in a great location.
After checking in we took off to explore and a train ride to an area north. We were visiting The Green Mile. A jazz club recommended to us. On the way we tried Thai Street food. Very good.
The club was funny. One cranky sullen door man collecting the $10 cover charge with no smile. No welcome and no information about what we would see.
It was jazz swing night. A very good 12 piece band and some good singers. Some great old favourites and they encouraged dancing. I love watching the dancers. They are usually a bit older and obviously practice at home. There were locals there. They knew each other and were dancing together. Great fun but it got very crowded so decided to leave around 9.40. Early by jazz club standards !
We had a full day of sightseeing planned !
We headed out to Oak Park. We’d booked a tour of Frank Lloyd Wright’s own house and studio. The tour given by Patti was great. I’m loving all the FLW architecture. Prairie style it’s called.
A huge gable dominates the front of the house
The house is so unusual. Attention to detail and lots of rooms within rooms to house his 6 children.
The main bedroom. Windows in the children’s playroom. The bathroom with a window angled for privacy.
His studio was equally spare. He was the Marie Kondo of his time. No clutter everything especial designed and loved.
We then walked Forest St with 9 FLW houses. They are very different to the style of the other houses in the street. They too are beautiful but suddenly look rather fussy when next to a FLW design.
FLW Prairie styleTypical of the other houses in the street l. Which do you prefer?
We walked to Oak Garden Station. if you are going to see FLW architecture it is a long way out. And check the right train. Several stations have the same name. Get to Oak Park Garden on the Green line.
Back to downtown we caught the above ground loop train which gives great views of the city streets.
The loop train sits above the streets.
We got off to see the art gallery and to walk in the gardens. Particularly the Millennium garden with the famous Bean which reflects the buildings around it. Only problem ….. it’s being renovated and was fenced off
.
A picture through the fence.
We enjoyed an hour and half in the late afternoon sun in a First Lady Architecture tour. It was great. The boat we chose has architecture people give commentary. Our lady was perfect. Other boats seem to have brief commentary but this gave an excellent overview of the buildings and the history of architecture in this great city.
I’ll do a separate post in the buildings.
We finished the cruise just out in the mouth of the river at Lake Michigan as the sun was setting. It was stunning.
We walked a little after the cruise before getting the metro up town to Kingston Mines- a blues club. We had a great night eating, drinking, singing and soaking up the atmosphere in this blues club. We were in the Fullerton area another lively neighbourhood.
frans travel tales 