Wandering Kanazawa

October 27, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 4 Comments

Our first day with no travel buddies! It’s been great sharing our travels with the Wilsons and McGregors. They are fun travel buddies.

Today we started fairly slowly. But as the sun was out we thought we should take advantage of it and get moving. We walked and found the loop bus. It runs around the city in a loop both ways, stopping at all the attractions.

We caught it to the Museum of Contemporary Art.

Set in a park it is a modern circular building with many art installations around it. Including the coloured structure above. With panels of different colours it changes your perspective of the world.

Inside there are various galleries some ticketed some not. It’s a great space and some fun art.

We’ve noticed there is no graffiti anywhere we’ve seen in Japan. No bins around either. But no rubbish. You are expected to take your rubbish away with you. Great idea.

There was a pool in a courtyard and when you looked in you could see people walking inside it. Great altered mind state.

We left the gallery and continued to walk. We came to the canal and met up with a lovely man who was there to feed the fish. He told us about the city and the fact that the city had many kilometres of canals circling it.

Our walk took us the old Samurai area. There we walked in the steps of the old samurai …..down cobbled streets past old wooden houses some of which are now occupied by art and craft shops.

I pottered in and out buying a few gifts as I went.

We stopped for lunch and opted for a delicious vegetable soup. Similar to a minestrone. Delicious. Especially with a beer Steve told me.

The rain had returned but not heavy so we stopped off at a department store back in the Main Street. It was beautiful but so empty of customers! it had a great food hall and u wanted to buy lots but opted for bananas for breakfast!

We waited for a bus and being a wanderer I said…let’s get this one and see where we go. It snaked its way in and around the city streets, crossed the river twice and before we knew it we were back at the castle gardens near our hotel. Perfect!

We dropped our parcels in and had a little rest before heading back out for dinner.

This time we walked the opposite direction into the old geisha area. It was charming. Still a little wet

We found a great Yakitori restaurant where we opted to sit at the bar and watch the theatre of the kitchen.

Drsssed with samurai type headbands the chefs were busy all night including giving a touching cheer as people came and left!

We had the set course which included an appetiser box ,

tempura, a hot pot,

chicken skewers , noodles and teeny tiny matcha panda cotta . All fairly small but delicious and we were full.

Luckily we had a walk back to the hotel.

It wasn’t late so I decided to visit the onsen. These public baths are everywhere in Japan. Most hotels have one. Japanese people are so relaxed because of these baths – in my opinion. And they have the smoothest skin!

I arrived at this one where a gaggle of older Japanese ladies were re dressing after their shared onsen. It quietened down so off came the gown and I had the obligatory shower before entering the bath. I there were only 2 ladies there with me. You take a small towel with you which you put on your head when in the bath. I wrapped my hair up.

When you get out you take another shower sitting on little low stools then soap yourself with the lovely products. Sitting in the stools all soapy is dangerous ! Getting up is a challenge.

Then into the change room to dry off before sitting at the mirrors in a towel to apply all the body creams and oil and blow dry your hair. Quite the experience.

Needless to say I was ready for a good sleep. And I found how to open the window for some fresh air.

Rainy Train Journey.

October 27, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 1 Comment

We had plenty of time to get organised this morning. We were all leaving on the 11.03 out of Takayama.

The station was awash with early bird travellers. There was a big line of people and lots of suitcases. Most people were heading to Tokyo , so probably at the end of their holiday – like our friends the McGregors. Steve and I sent our luggage on but our friends brought theirs.

So there was a lot of scrambling once we were allowed into platform 1 !

The poor conductor was waving his arms trying to hurry everyone. The train risked being a minute late to leave the station!!!

Once on board everyone seemed to settle and we enjoyed being indoors on this rainy day.

The countryside was very green. Lots of trees and water flowing and power stations.

Before we knew it we were farewelling our dear friends Peter & Elizabeth. They very nearly had to cancel as they both had been to NZ and caught some nasty virus. But they came and rallied and we loved having them with us. We’ve had many trips together.

We all changed trains at Toyama. We had less than 6 mins. We had to move fast and Chris and Jill had their bags.

We made it – just!

Then the 35 min trip to Kanazawa. This city is known for its castle and gardens.

After finding our hotel the rather old world place we went walking.

First to the Omicho markets. Much more a food market than the Nishiki market in Kyoto.

We bought some fresh prawns and sushi and stood at bench tables eating along with a beer for the boys.

We left and headed for the Castle it was starting to sprinkle but not enough to deter us. We headed up the hill with Chris dancing g Ali g. Very light in his feet singing ‘ I’m singing in the rain’

We left the castle grounds. Crossed the road and arrived at the Kenrokuen Gardens.

These are very famous…. Kenrokuen” means “garden that combines six characteristics.” These six characteristics are spaciousness, seclusion, artifice, antiquity, water sources and magnifient views. Not every garden in Japan can combine all of these features but Kenrokuen does.

It’s beautiful.

The trees are starting to show their autumn colours.

Unfortunately for us it wasn’t sunlit but it had a moodiness that comes with rain and cloud cover. We still enjoyed the peace as many people would have avoided the gardens in the rain.

The rain got heavier so we decided to head off. We walked down a hill to our hotel , passing along a garden path behind the hotel.

Many sculptures lined the path back to our hotel.

We dripped into the hotel foyer and headed to our rooms to dry off.

Jill and I hatched a perfect plan. We didn’t want go out again in the dark and rain so sent the boys for supplies. They cane back with beer, wine, sashimi and sushi. Perfect room picnic.

Takayama

October 25, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 5 Comments

When we were deciding where to stay it was a toss up between Takayama and Hida. I’m so pleased we had one night in Hida. It’s a small town but so beautiful and so well preserved. But a real town.

Takayama is bigger and more crowded. I like it but it doesn’t have the charm of Hida, or the atmosphere of Miyajima or even the variety of sightseeing Kyoto has to offer.

We got here yesterday and walked a little till it was getting dark and quite cold. The weather so far has been great. Really warm up until Hida when being high in the mountains produces cooler weather. It was welcome. I was getting a bit over wearing the same few dresses! I pack light and it was getting a bit boring.

Today we set off at 8.30 for the morning markets. They are located on the river. White tents mostly with food items. Similar scenes are found all over the world. Only in Japan it felt very calm.

The only decent coffee was found by smelling coffee beans and spying a line of people!

No wonder there was a line. There were two people in the tent. The man was taking orders – slowly one at a time and then assembling little coffee cups made out of an edible cone with room for an espresso and the young woman was doing everything else!

She was making the coffee then carrying it to the serving table and decorating each coffee individually!

The coffee was nice and we had a seat in the warm sun and a croissant ! And a banana so a balanced breakfast! Not very Japanese. No fish or pickles.

And packets of dried fruits all wrapped beautifully.

We walking further into the old town to where their festival floats are stored and explored the streets which have no power lines!

Late morning we headed back to the bus station. We were going to Shirakawa. We had bought an unreserved seat and the lady reassured us that we’d get a seat on a bus at that time. She told us they just kept adding buses. She was right. We got on bus 4 of the ones leaving at 11.50.

Declared a UNESCO world heritage site in 1995, Shirakawa is famous for their traditional gassho-zukuri farmhouses, some of which are more than 250 years old.

We walked through the small town and tried to imagine it in winter! The snow would keep people in their houses and make life difficult. One house we were able to visit was Kanda. It was spread over 5 levels and would have held not just one family but relatives as well. It’s so well preserved.

The views over the village showed how it was laid out. People still live there but it must be hard with tourists crawling all over it.

We bought some lunch and like the lady at the coffee stall this morning one man was running a little shop selling Hida beef croquettes and chicken bites. For each order he left the window where he took the order and went and cooked the items. It’s slow and very unhurried and you develop patience.

It started to sprinkle so we headed back to the bus station and caught a bus back to Takayama.

Stopping off at the hotel bar we were going to have coffee or tea but Elizabeth led us astray and we had an espresso martini.

After a change and a bit of packing we headed out for our last dinner together. We all leave on a train tomorrow but the Wilson’s and ourselves get off in Kanazawa and the McGregors go on to Tokyo. They have one night there then fly home.

For today’s dinner we celebrated our great holiday together and an early birthday celebration for Steve’s birthday next Thursday.

Thank you to our friends for making this a great holiday.

Miyajima with a stopover at Himeji Castle

October 19, 2025October 19, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 3 Comments

I love luggage forwarding. It means the day we leave we just have hand luggage! So easy especially when you see people lugging big bags on buses and trains. What on earth do they pack to need a really large bag? Hint ….. take things out and pack lighter.

Down to Kyoto station. We are all over the public transport now.

In plenty of time for the 9.05 train to Himeji. We want to stop and see the castle.

Into Himeji in 45 mins. Hand luggage into lockers and onto the loop bus for the short trip up the castle. It’s 20 mins walk and we decided to save our feet.

The sun was out and looked in awe at this amazing sight.

We stopped for coffee at a cafe across the road and were welcomed by the sweetest little old lady. She had the worst back….

We bought a combined ticket. Castle and gardens. 1050 yen which is around $10. The prices to all these shrines, temples etc seems to be very low and fairly consistent. All around 500-1000 yen.

Only Steve and Elizabeth decided up climb the steep steps up to the 6th floor. The rest of us went to the first floor. Inside is dark and there is no furniture. It’s all about the views out.

As we walked back out toward the moat we saw a lovely young couple with two little boys. She had a sign saying ‘we are English learners. Can we ask you a few questions’ We stopped and met the most delightful young couple with 2 and 4 year old boys – they were such fun. They asked us a few questions ‘ where do you come from’ what Japanese food do you like’ we had a great chat and then as we farewelled them they gave us a little gift.

Further along the path we met another mother and child. This boy was 7. They explained that talking with visitors helped the children learn English. This little boy had good English. He was very keen for us to take a gift each. This time a little Japanese fabric purse with tissues. And a beautifully folded star. He then asked could we have a photo with him. He told us to put up or 2 fingers as a sign of peace.

What a really special thing to do.

We made our way to the Kokoen gardens.

I was keen to find a seat in a shady stop near some water and just sit. Unfortunately that is lacking in Japan. There are very few seats around.

We caught the loop bus back to the station after a little sightseeing trip around the castle past the museum and art gallery.

The food hall at the station was great. We all bought various food items. Salads, spring rolls and scallops ( but they weren’t hot)

Then the train to Hiroshima and a swap to a more local train to Miyajima and a quick 10 min ferry ride to the island.

Our hotel the Hotel Miyajima Villa was a two minute walk. It’s lovely. Modern but Japanese modern. Futons on a platform, a shower room, separate toilet and basin opening windows! A massage chair, pjs and toiletries you collect down stairs in a little red bag.

Tonight we are having the hotel buffet with an acclaimed chef. It is $99 and includes drinks. Let’s hope it great.

The view from our room is lovely across the water.

I’m sure we’ll love it here. It’s downtime for us after a fairly cracking pace in Kyoto.

Dinner was good! So good we needed a walk after it to walk off the desert we didn’t need.

We walked along the water front. There are lots of children around everywhere we go. It turns out this month is excursion time. Schools all over the country take their students away on trips.

And they were out tonight – being chased by a few deer. Yes it seems they have made it here as well!

The Tori gate was lit up so beautifully it was worth the walk in the rain to get there and back.

Visiting Arashiyama and the Iconic Bamboo Grove

October 18, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 1 Comment

Today was time to send our luggage to Miyajima. We have one more night here in Kyoto so just need an overnight bag for our trip to Hiroshima and Miyajima where we’re staying.

With luggage stored we headed out to Arashiyama at 8 am to beat the crowds. We caught a JR train and changed onto a tram like train for the final 4 stops. It took about 40 mins.

The station has great shops and services but we headed straight out to start the walk. We were there before 9 am so even though the main walk was open it was obvious that some paths were still closed while workmen were cleaning and putting finishing touches to decorations – all made from bamboo. It seems there’s a festival tomorrow which will be lovely especially in the evening. There will be lights all along the path.

Taking a side path we arrived at the Sogenchi garden – very much a zen garden designed by a monk, it has a pond, rock garden , trees planted to provide asymmetry and it is subtle but natural. I loved it. The Tenryuji temple was quite a let down compared to the garden.

We enjoyed a great coffee from a van in the Main Street before catching a bus up the hill to the Adashino Nembutsuji, a temple formed as a burial site.

We walked up more steps through the bamboo …..

We almost had this area to ourselves.

Riding the bus up was a great idea in the rain so we wandered down through the preserved streets.

Torimoto has a wonderfully quiet atmosphere. We found a small cafe run by two little stooped women. Freshly made sandwiches in an old world cafe. Perfect.

Okochi Sanso is a villa with gardens so well laid out that you could wander and not be aware of others following another path. Owned by an actor Okochi Denjiro (1898-1962), this property is now open to the public. It’s just beautiful.

Our time was running out so we headed to the river – no time for the famed river walk.

We got another Romance train ‘ this one not quite as luxurious as the one yesterday! but fun!

Beautiful views of the river from the train

Back in Kyoto I decided to walk in the Gion area. I wanted to see the bridge that featured in the movie Memoirs of a Geisha.

The area didn’t disappoint.

I wandered the streets until my feet objected!

22,000 steps today.

We had a great dinner out before calling it a night. We’re leaving Kyoto tomorrow. It’s been great

Time now for a quieter time in Miyajima Island. And harrowing Hiroshima.

Day Trip to Nara

October 18, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 1 Comment

A day trip to Nara is a good idea. Saves packing and moving. The train system is so good it’s easy to do.

Leaving from Kyoto main station at 10 we were in Nara in warm conditions by 10.50.

I found a great day trip guide to Nara which proved to be just what we needed.

https://thenavigatio.com/nara-itinerary-one-day-trip/

It included a coffee stop at the start of the loop. It was a great suggestion for a nice coffee and we all added a croissant- to help with the walking.

We headed up the Main Street and it wasn’t long before we saw the roaming deer. They really wanted to be fed the water thin crackers. They pursue you hoping to get a cracker. And they have learned to bow to in a very Japanese way.

We detoured to the Yoshikien gardens. They were free to enter and though small were perfect. So tranquil and beautiful.

We left by the back gate which got us to the Todai ji Temple. It’s one of the more famous temples and was impressive because it was entirely constructed with wood using no nails. It also has a 500 ton bronze Buddha sitting inside. It was hard to work out if he was made there or made and moved to his home in the temple. Either way it is impressive.

We saw the tree with the hollow which children were scrambling through. Legend has it that if you can squeeze through it you will be granted enlightenment in the next life. The children’s teacher nearly didn’t make it!

We continued on around the park passing many deers. Its mating season and the cries from the big males was pathetic !

We walked the long tree and deer lined path to Kasugataisha shrine. Walking towards it we passed hundred of small shrines placed by families for their deceased relatives.

There are 2,000 of these lining the paths.

Time was moving on and we had tickets on the Romance train back to Kyoto. We arrived and found our beautiful green seats which were so comfortable after a long day of walking in the heat!

Now was the time to tackle the ticket purchases for the remaining journeys on this trip.

Steve and Elizabeth spent at least 30 minutes with a young girl who looked like she was still at school. But she was all over the complicated ticket arrangements. The McGregors are going on a different place for a few days cycling after Hiroshima and we are going to Naoshima , the Art Island. Then we meet up to go to Hida.

After a freshen up we headed out to an Asian fusion restaurant which had the most delicious , spring roles and beef! yum. Pity the wine wasn’t good!

What a great day.

Fushimi Inari (but let’s talk Toilets)

October 17, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / Leave a comment

Started the day quite early with a train to the very well known orange gates of Fushimi inari We tried to the beat the crowds and probably did but it was still busy.

It’s interesting to observe the rituals before a visit. There were many school students all very quiet and respectful. They all washed their hands before climbing the stairs to the temple.

There are a series of small temples and lots of stairs. I’m pleased we’re not here in warmer months.

Like everywhere it’s a little commercialised with little shops manned by more elderly Japanese men and women selling miniature Tori gates, trinkets, charms , fans all that you can write on and left as offerings.

We climbed up to the start of the walk and slowed a little to allow space around us. People are mostly respectful but some dominate and take space posing for Instagram photos.

We walked along the path. No steps at this early stage.

We turned at the first gap in the gates and returned. This time there was writing on the orange posts.

A coffee stop on the way back to the train for our next stop Sanjusangen-do the Buddhist temple with 1,000 statues for Kannen the goddess of compassion with her many arms.

It had beautiful gardens surrounding the temple. the gardens of Japan are planned serene spots.

By now it was lightly raining so we got a very crowded bus to Sannenzaka and Ninen zaka two narrow sloping roads with flagstone and stone steps leading to Kiyomizudera temple.

The streets are traditional with old shopfronts now occupied by shops selling all types of food and souvenirs to the many people walking towards the temple.

Video shows the mallet throwing onto the dough to make a ball of dough filled with red bean.

Dressing in traditional kimono seems to be the way to go when visiting these temples and walking the traditional streets. There were many kimono hire shops in the main streets leading up towards the temple. not just young Japanese girls took the opportunity to wear them. Many western couples were dressed as well. Steve was not interested!

Looking back up to the temple. It’s all wooden with no nails used in construction

We wound down the rather steep path past mossy statues and headed for the main road.

Steve caught a bus to the National museum, the Wilsons headed to the Golden pavilion they missed yesterday, and I caught a bus to the main area of Kyoto to check out the other temple – the big Japanese department store devoted to shopping. It’s called Takashimaya

It’s beautiful. And super expensive!

I checked out the bookshop, the stationary, clothes and spent time in the food hall.

The wrapping on the boxed goods is a work of art. Just beautiful.

I wandered through the lanes to get home including popping into Uniqlo. It’s the same …… but different! Lots of tourist style t shirts. I might be tempted!!!

After a shower and freshen up we made our way to Tominojo restaurant in the Gion area.

What a great fun night we had. It’s a shabu shabu style restaurant. The young staff on one side of the long counter provided a ‘show’ – the young Nepalese woman explained how it would operate. We chose the Kobe beef and the style of hot pot and away we went. It was delicious and fun.

This shows how the nest is sliced and celebrated!

And so ended another great day.

Except I did mention toilets.

They are amazing! Everyone I’ve been to in stations, restaurants, hotels, department store, temple , shrines ……. They are clean and functional and all have multiple buttons.

They even have a chair to sit your baby while you go. They have child’s seat hanging ready for use.

They all have a panel on the wall. You can wash front and back , choose the water pressure , then dry . Wow. You could spend a long time in there!

I did promise to tell you about them. If you have questions just pop them in the comments.

Temples, Shrines and Castles.

October 16, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / Leave a comment

A mix up with tour bookings led to the three couples going in different directions.

The Wilsons wandered locally , the McGregors did the Palace and Castle tour and Steve and I headed to two shrines

We caught the number 59 bus for lots of stops which gave us a good look at the suburbs our yo the east side of the city.

We started with Ryoanji temple. This is home to the most famous zen rock garden. It’s simple and it’s quiet and quite mesmerising.

Photo taken as a panorama shot. It’s rectangle garden.

This garden has sand which is raked meticulously. There are 15 rocks in the space.

We moved from this space into the gardens and loved the lake walk and the bamboo poles holding up the trees.

There are little corners with running water and statues of Buddha. I loved it.

We moved on to the Golden Temple. It’s probably the most famous of the temples here in Kyoto. Truely beautiful.

A quick taxi ride took us to the tour we were doing if the Imperial Palace and Castle. On arrival we found that the palace and gardens were closed as the Royal family were in town.

Our guide Jasmine was young and had the biggest eyes! And long blond hair well it really was black like all the other Japanese girls we’ve seen but she had dyed it blonde!

She broke the news that as it was closed we would instead go to the art gallery in the castle grounds.

We had a good tour of the castle and Jasmine explained the history of the shogans and their relationship to the Emperor.

The painted panels were beautiful especially the peony room.

We finished the evening with a tea ceremony. A young 19 year maiko explained her world as a trainee geisha. Very strange life in this day and age.

Fast Train to Kyoto

October 14, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 1 Comment

Travelling with 6 people we decided on 2 taxis for the trip down from the hills to Odawara Station to catch a Shinkansen train to Kyoto. It’s a fast train. In fact around 264 km – one was clicked in at as it sped through the station!

Stairs in the station painted with a mountain scene.

We arrived in plenty of time and had a coffee before going to the platform and joining an orderly line to board the train. A train guard was madly waving his flag at anyone who accidentally put their foot over the yellow safety line. – even with a fence before the track.

We bought first class seats and they were very spacious and comfortable for the 2.5 Hr trip.

Arriving in Kyoto was amazing. The station is huge but so well signposted. With a little help from our friend, Chat GPT, we got directions through the station to the bus platforms and got the city bus 7 to our hotel. We’re feeling very chuffed that we’re managing our travel so well. Jill is our organiser and has her phone at the ready to give directions and we, her minions are the eyes looking for the signs. It’s working well.

The hotel is the same chain as the one we used in Tokyo but not quite as good. But after I ‘nested’ / unpacked and got organised it’s working well. It’s certainly in a good position. Not far from the famous Nishiki market and also just near the canal and river crossing to Gion.

We had a quick lunch and split up. Steve & Chris headed to the Train Museum and museum of Kyoto, ( sadly they found it closed but lived the trains) Jill and I chose to wander the laneways and end up at Nishiki Markets and the McGregors wandered across the Kamagowa river to Gion area.

Jill and I had a great explore. As well as great shops along the way , we stopped at a shrine and a temple.

Prayers and blessing written in the fans

The shops were a buzz with shoppers and trendy looking young Japanese.

The next temple had a cemetery behind it.

Buried in the Cemetery is Izumi Shikibu who was described as the great woman poet of her time and the first chief priest of this temple.

“MY life is drawing to a close, I cannot longer stay,

A pleasant memory of thee

I fain would take away;

So visit me, I pray.”

Izumi Shikibu

Then into the markets with dozens of food stalls. All ready to cook something delicious for you. Meats, seafoods of all kinds , tempura,

I had to try something, so got a fruit stick with the finest layer of toffee over it.

A fish shaped soft pastry with custard inside. Yum!

I found an umbrella shop and bought a beautiful navy and white umbrella.

We bought socks, glass nail files, shoe laces , and tasted some great honey cordial.

No I didn’t try this …. But would like to

After changing we walked across the river looking for a roof top bar but were disappointed to find it closed. We settled on a glass of wine in a small bar and a cheap and cheerful bowl of ramen for dinner.

We walked home in light drizzle through a trendy nightclub area and spotted my first geisha.

Loving Kyoto already!

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