Kyoto

Visiting Arashiyama and the Iconic Bamboo Grove

/ brisbanefrannie / 1 Comment

Today was time to send our luggage to Miyajima. We have one more night here in Kyoto so just need an overnight bag for our trip to Hiroshima and Miyajima where we’re staying.

With luggage stored we headed out to Arashiyama at 8 am to beat the crowds. We caught a JR train and changed onto a tram like train for the final 4 stops. It took about 40 mins.

The station has great shops and services but we headed straight out to start the walk. We were there before 9 am so even though the main walk was open it was obvious that some paths were still closed while workmen were cleaning and putting finishing touches to decorations – all made from bamboo. It seems there’s a festival tomorrow which will be lovely especially in the evening. There will be lights all along the path.

Taking a side path we arrived at the Sogenchi garden – very much a zen garden designed by a monk, it has a pond, rock garden , trees planted to provide asymmetry and it is subtle but natural. I loved it. The Tenryuji temple was quite a let down compared to the garden.

With Macca

We enjoyed a great coffee from a van in the Main Street before catching a bus up the hill to the Adashino Nembutsuji, a temple formed as a burial site.

We walked up more steps through the bamboo …..

We almost had this area to ourselves.

Riding the bus up was a great idea in the rain so we wandered down through the preserved streets.

Avoiding the crowds.

Torimoto has a wonderfully quiet atmosphere. We found a small cafe run by two little stooped women. Freshly made sandwiches in an old world cafe. Perfect.

Okochi Sanso is a villa with gardens so well laid out that you could wander and not be aware of others following another path. Owned by an actor Okochi Denjiro (1898-1962), this property is now open to the public. It’s just beautiful.

Our time was running out so we headed to the river – no time for the famed river walk.

We got another Romance train ‘ this one not quite as luxurious as the one yesterday! but fun!

Rather hard seats. Not so romantic!
Beautiful views of the river from the train

Back in Kyoto I decided to walk in the Gion area. I wanted to see the bridge that featured in the movie Memoirs of a Geisha.

The area didn’t disappoint.

I wandered the streets until my feet objected!

22,000 steps today.

We had a great dinner out before calling it a night. We’re leaving Kyoto tomorrow. It’s been great

Time now for a quieter time in Miyajima Island. And harrowing Hiroshima.

Fushimi Inari (but let’s talk Toilets)

/ brisbanefrannie / Leave a comment

Started the day quite early with a train to the very well known orange gates of Fushimi inari We tried to the beat the crowds and probably did but it was still busy.

It’s interesting to observe the rituals before a visit. There were many school students all very quiet and respectful. They all washed their hands before climbing the stairs to the temple.

There are a series of small temples and lots of stairs. I’m pleased we’re not here in warmer months.

Like everywhere it’s a little commercialised with little shops manned by more elderly Japanese men and women selling miniature Tori gates, trinkets, charms , fans all that you can write on and left as offerings.

We climbed up to the start of the walk and slowed a little to allow space around us. People are mostly respectful but some dominate and take space posing for Instagram photos.

We walked along the path. No steps at this early stage.

We turned at the first gap in the gates and returned. This time there was writing on the orange posts.

A coffee stop on the way back to the train for our next stop Sanjusangen-do the Buddhist temple with 1,000 statues for Kannen the goddess of compassion with her many arms.

It had beautiful gardens surrounding the temple. the gardens of Japan are planned serene spots.

By now it was lightly raining so we got a very crowded bus to Sannenzaka and Ninen zaka two narrow sloping roads with flagstone and stone steps leading to Kiyomizudera temple.

The streets are traditional with old shopfronts now occupied by shops selling all types of food and souvenirs to the many people walking towards the temple.

Video shows the mallet throwing onto the dough to make a ball of dough filled with red bean.

Dressing in traditional kimono seems to be the way to go when visiting these temples and walking the traditional streets. There were many kimono hire shops in the main streets leading up towards the temple. not just young Japanese girls took the opportunity to wear them. Many western couples were dressed as well. Steve was not interested!

Looking back up to the temple. It’s all wooden with no nails used in construction

We wound down the rather steep path past mossy statues and headed for the main road.

Steve caught a bus to the National museum, the Wilsons headed to the Golden pavilion they missed yesterday, and I caught a bus to the main area of Kyoto to check out the other temple – the big Japanese department store devoted to shopping. It’s called Takashimaya

It’s beautiful. And super expensive!

The bookstore in the department store

I checked out the bookshop, the stationary, clothes and spent time in the food hall.

The wrapping on the boxed goods is a work of art. Just beautiful.

I wandered through the lanes to get home including popping into Uniqlo. It’s the same …… but different! Lots of tourist style t shirts. I might be tempted!!!

After a shower and freshen up we made our way to Tominojo restaurant in the Gion area.

What a great fun night we had. It’s a shabu shabu style restaurant. The young staff on one side of the long counter provided a ‘show’ – the young Nepalese woman explained how it would operate. We chose the Kobe beef and the style of hot pot and away we went. It was delicious and fun.

This shows how the nest is sliced and celebrated!

And so ended another great day.

Except I did mention toilets.

They are amazing! Everyone I’ve been to in stations, restaurants, hotels, department store, temple , shrines ……. They are clean and functional and all have multiple buttons.

They even have a chair to sit your baby while you go. They have child’s seat hanging ready for use.

They all have a panel on the wall. You can wash front and back , choose the water pressure , then dry . Wow. You could spend a long time in there!

I did promise to tell you about them. If you have questions just pop them in the comments.

Temples, Shrines and Castles.

/ brisbanefrannie / Leave a comment

A mix up with tour bookings led to the three couples going in different directions.

The Wilsons wandered locally , the McGregors did the Palace and Castle tour and Steve and I headed to two shrines

We caught the number 59 bus for lots of stops which gave us a good look at the suburbs our yo the east side of the city.

We started with Ryoanji temple. This is home to the most famous zen rock garden. It’s simple and it’s quiet and quite mesmerising.

Photo taken as a panorama shot. It’s rectangle garden.

This garden has sand which is raked meticulously. There are 15 rocks in the space.

We moved from this space into the gardens and loved the lake walk and the bamboo poles holding up the trees.

There are little corners with running water and statues of Buddha. I loved it.

We moved on to the Golden Temple. It’s probably the most famous of the temples here in Kyoto. Truely beautiful.

It very beautiful

A quick taxi ride took us to the tour we were doing if the Imperial Palace and Castle. On arrival we found that the palace and gardens were closed as the Royal family were in town.

Our guide Jasmine was young and had the biggest eyes! And long blond hair well it really was black like all the other Japanese girls we’ve seen but she had dyed it blonde!

She broke the news that as it was closed we would instead go to the art gallery in the castle grounds.

We had a good tour of the castle and Jasmine explained the history of the shogans and their relationship to the Emperor.

The painted panels were beautiful especially the peony room.

We finished the evening with a tea ceremony. A young 19 year maiko explained her world as a trainee geisha. Very strange life in this day and age.

Fast Train to Kyoto

/ brisbanefrannie / 1 Comment

Travelling with 6 people we decided on 2 taxis for the trip down from the hills to Odawara Station to catch a Shinkansen train to Kyoto. It’s a fast train. In fact around 264 km – one was clicked in at as it sped through the station!

Stairs in the station painted with a mountain scene.

We arrived in plenty of time and had a coffee before going to the platform and joining an orderly line to board the train. A train guard was madly waving his flag at anyone who accidentally put their foot over the yellow safety line. – even with a fence before the track.

We bought first class seats and they were very spacious and comfortable for the 2.5 Hr trip.

Arriving in Kyoto was amazing. The station is huge but so well signposted. With a little help from our friend, Chat GPT, we got directions through the station to the bus platforms and got the city bus 7 to our hotel. We’re feeling very chuffed that we’re managing our travel so well. Jill is our organiser and has her phone at the ready to give directions and we, her minions are the eyes looking for the signs. It’s working well.

The hotel is the same chain as the one we used in Tokyo but not quite as good. But after I ‘nested’ / unpacked and got organised it’s working well. It’s certainly in a good position. Not far from the famous Nishiki market and also just near the canal and river crossing to Gion.

We had a quick lunch and split up. Steve & Chris headed to the Train Museum and museum of Kyoto, ( sadly they found it closed but lived the trains) Jill and I chose to wander the laneways and end up at Nishiki Markets and the McGregors wandered across the Kamagowa river to Gion area.

Jill and I had a great explore. As well as great shops along the way , we stopped at a shrine and a temple.

Prayers and blessing written in the fans

The shops were a buzz with shoppers and trendy looking young Japanese.

The next temple had a cemetery behind it.

Buried in the Cemetery is Izumi Shikibu who was described as the great woman poet of her time and the first chief priest of this temple.

“MY life is drawing to a close, I cannot longer stay,

A pleasant memory of thee

I fain would take away;

So visit me, I pray.”

Izumi Shikibu

Then into the markets with dozens of food stalls. All ready to cook something delicious for you. Meats, seafoods of all kinds , tempura,

I had to try something, so got a fruit stick with the finest layer of toffee over it.

Strawberries and grapes
A fish shaped soft pastry with custard inside. Yum!

I found an umbrella shop and bought a beautiful navy and white umbrella.

We bought socks, glass nail files, shoe laces , and tasted some great honey cordial.

No I didn’t try this …. But would like to

After changing we walked across the river looking for a roof top bar but were disappointed to find it closed. We settled on a glass of wine in a small bar and a cheap and cheerful bowl of ramen for dinner.

Loved the one called Novelty!

We walked home in light drizzle through a trendy nightclub area and spotted my first geisha.

Loving Kyoto already!