Last few days in Scotland.

September 8, 2023 / brisbanefrannie / 3 Comments

We crossed on the 3 hour ferry from Lochboisidale to Mallaig

Mallaig is a lovely little town with lots of shops and cafes and a railway line that ends right in the centre of town.

The famous Jacobite train runs between here and Fort William and it would be great to fi it. We have trusty black hire car.

The drive to Fort William is magnificent. Seeing so many trees after being on fairly tree less Hebrides.

We stopped to view the viaduct – made quite famous through Harry Potter.

The afternoon light is beautiful.

View from our window

We arrived into Fort William and to our BnB Myrtle Bank. Run by a very friendly Dora the place is beautiful. Opposite the loch it’s a mass of flowers. Quite a standout amongst the other BnBs. Our room on the ground floor is big and beautiful. Dora is a character. During our several emails to secure a booking she said no credit card needed. She just took the booking and when we got there said we could pay by PayPal or cash.

We went for a walk through the town and chose somewhere for dinner.

Breakfast is as good as expected. And then we were away driving alongside the sparkling loch. We stopped at Glencoe which was much smaller than I thought. It has such a reputation for being the centre of the battles.

Continuing on, the area is so stunning. And the gorgeous weather certainly helps.

Arriving at Stirling it is the castle and the William Wallace memorial that dominates the skyline. Sitting a top the hill the castle in imposing.

We took the audio guide self guided tour. These are so good these days. They bring history alive as you walk area the rooms of the castle. It is a very special Castle. It was added to over the years but it was the Mary of Guise the French wife of James V who made some significant changes.

Theres got to be an advantage to having a sore knee, and with my crutch which I only use now if we’re doing lots of walking on cobbles, I get special access to lifts to avoid all the stairs. Very helpful.

William Wallace was a knight and a leader in the first Scottish war of independence. he was nicknamed Braveheart.

We drive to St Andrews. famous for its golf courses and the fact Prince William went yo University there.

It’s a lovely lively student town fairly overrun this week with golfers. There’s a big tournament on.

The students were all wandering around looking handsome and wealthy. And we watched as quite a few headed down to one of the ocean pools for an afternoon dip. Very brave I’d say.

Conditions were beautiful if not a little cool

We continued on along the coast – it’s a great area for holidaying. There are lots of holiday parks. Little cottages all lined up. They do have caravan parks but they also have many little cabin type places.

We arrived at Anstruther in the late afternoon when the sun was dipping before setting.

The theme in these little coastal town is the decorated dog.

And ice cream shops. And after our fish ‘n chips dinner we had our first ice cream.

Outer Hebrides. Out of this World

September 6, 2023September 6, 2023 / brisbanefrannie / 5 Comments

We woke in our little attic apartment to wind blowing and rain beating. So a little sleep in !

It’s also Sunday so nothing much happens on a Sunday. We did not think of this too much when planning and booking. We probably should have. Nothing is open. Except our lovely old hotel.

So down time morning. A great Scottish breakfast. Followed by time in the lounge area looking into the garden drinking tea, reading and catching up on emails.

By 11am the conditions improved and we headed off. I love going off the beaten track so directed Steve off the main road as we headed south and went along the little road down near the waters edge.

It was peaceful. Not a car in sight. In fact I was hoping nothing happened to the car as no one was around to help. People were either at church , still in bed or watching the tv. Probably sport!

The beaches here are renowned for their beauty, colours, and remoteness. Even on a dull windy day it was a great colour ( hard to capture in a photo) a kind of milky blue. The wind surfers were having a ball

Exciting to watch.

Lots of little cabins for holiday makers.

We wanted coffee. Nothing open. Until….. we saw a sign. Followed it to the cutest little yurt style building. And it was super busy.

We had noticed quite a few roadside shops! Honesty cupboards or cabins. With a variety of home baking from the owners of the Croft houses nearby. Our favourite was the chocolate hut.

We pottered and admired the scenery and eventually got to the ferry terminal to catch the ferry to the next island. The Hebrides are a chain of islands. Several need ferry crossings. This one needed an hour to cross.

We crossed from Harris to North Uist and found our accommodation The Fisherman’s Snug . Run by fisherman’s wife Anne it is a perfect little studio place. A separate lounge area. Big bathroom and comfy bed. We could have stayed a week. We keep saying that about places we are visiting.

Anne left the best welcome basket I’ve ever seen.

We went for dinner ( lobster!) to a local tavern / pub and met a few other characters. A bike rider from Edinburgh – he was a combination of funny, mad and manic. But entertaining. And a couple from outer London. We had fun!

Another great day.

Isle of Skye

September 2, 2023September 2, 2023 / brisbanefrannie / 1 Comment

We left Edinburgh by 9 and we’re heading north through places with familiar names.

Stopping in Perth we had to visit the Black Watch Museum. One of Scotland mist famous Highland regimens.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_Watch

We are in the land of highlands, tartans, clans, whiskies, castles and palaces.

Along the road there are signs pointing to the castles that each area seems to have. And if you’re a Highlanders fan and love Jamie you should come to this country.

We drove on towards the Isle of Skye through beautiful scenes of mountains , green fields , heather , trickling streams, lochs, but no Loch Ness monster, waterfalls and camper vans. There are lots here.

Had a little walk through the bush to find the waterfall.

Our first big castle was Eilean Donan castle on Kyle of Lochalsh. Before you cross over to Skye. It was getting late. Around 4.30 – we were able in for free. It’s a moody, dark castle in the most beautiful spot.

Walking around I like to imagine the people who lived here back in the 15thC. The life they had and here are we today with our cameras on iPhones walking the same ground.

We crossed the big bridge to Skye. This has made it easier to travel there leading to overcrowding. The number of small vans on the road is pretty amazing.

We booked at the Guesthouse in the first town over the bridge. Kyleakin. Our guest house is newly renovated and quite comfortable though I do wonder if owners ever actually stay in the rooms themselves. We rate it 2 🛌 🛌 Nicely fitted out room with a comfortable bed . But tiny bathroom, no toiletries, no shelf over the sink or in the shower. Breakfast was a tray in the room with packets of cereals , tea etc. not much really. It was really impersonal. All keyless no contact with owners only the sounds of other guests.

That night we treated ourselves to a special dinner at Kinloch Lodge. It’s a beautiful old house with bedrooms facing a large stretch of water and st sunset was magnificent.

The dinner was expensive but so delicious. Our waiter was from Terrigal in NSW Aus.

Such a beautiful setting at Kinloch Lodge

We’d heard there were loads of midges on Syke but I risked it and left the window open. It’s lovely weather and not as cool as I thought it would be. We’ve been lucky!

Take a Tour of the Royal Britannia !

August 26, 2023August 27, 2023 / brisbanefrannie / 3 Comments

Fans of the Royal family or not there is always a fascination with their castles, palaces and this ship.

Decommissioned in 1997 as a working ship for the Queen, it’s clocks were stopped at 3 minutes past 3 when she stepped off the ship for the last time.

I thoroughly enjoyed the tour. As usual everything was well organised. No crowds to battle. Tickets are sold in entry times to stagger the people coming on board.

It took us first to the Captains bridge. All the important equipment for driving this ship! Beautiful shiny instruments now looking outdated.

We explored the crew’s areas. The mess for the officers, the seaman’s quarters.

Of course the Royal bedrooms were understated elegance. The Queen and Prince Phillip had adjacent rooms with single beds. Mmmm.

The only Royal bedroom with a double was the honeymoon suite. Charles apparently requested a double when he and Diana married. Unfortunately, it didn’t work for them.

The sundeck room was fun with its bar and games and great views.

We followed the numbered trail around the ship with our little audio handheld set pressed to our ears.

The officers’ dining room looked quite formal except for the wombat sitting in the fan ! Thrown there at one drinks session and never taken down.

As we moved around the ship there were lots of family photos. I think the Royal family loved being on board.

We saw the laundry, the hospital and the formal dining room room where many Presidents and Heads of State have been entertained

By this time Steve would have enjoyed a beer. So he sat at the Officers bar. Unfortunately these were fake beers.

The ship is docked at Leith – the port about 20 minutes by tram from the centre of Edinburgh. Such a great tram system. One tram does a route from Leith through the city and then out to the airport.

And a big applause for the buses. We have worked them out and you can get a tap-tap-cap fare where after 2 rides the fares are capped for the day at £4.80 in total. So we’ve been jumping on and off the buses. Great bonus with a sore knee.

Being in Leith had me singing the Proclaimers’ song ‘Sunshine on Leith’ – it’s beautiful and is one of my choir songs. This clip shows scenes in and around Leith filmed in a cafe there.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=Iesps9w4HFw&si=9uAUjKuyYmtiZ_xt

From Musical to the best of Irish Comedy to the Tattoo.

August 26, 2023August 27, 2023 / brisbanefrannie / 3 Comments

There is so much on in this Festival city. Everywhere you walk someone puts a brochure in your hand.

One of the Irish comedians. It was F#^#%ing funny.

We went to The Best of Irish Comedy. In a basement with a bar, of course, and a very funny MC who reminded the people in the front row perhaps they should have chosen seats further back. Lots of ribbing for them.

There were three comedians. The first a young woman who was great – very funny.

The second, a young man, a bit of a storyteller in a very funny way.

The last act was a man with a stammer I thought he was pretending. But no, he had quite a stammer. Which became the theme of an ongoing joke. He was funny but I found it a bit excruciating. I kept wanting to give the words to him.

Deciding what to see is the problem. When we got the program a few months ago we were choosing blind! That is, we didn’t know anything about any of the Fringe shows.

We knew the Oslo Philharmonic, the Simon Bolivar Orchestra. But with the Fringe it’s pot luck. We booked a few winners and a few we should have left alone. Not that they were bad. They just weren’t us. It’s probably better to come and check out things here. There a much more to take in than looking in a programme!

Today we saw Big Fish. an American short musical. It had appeal, but for us in a crowded theatre we felt out of it for young people loud, music thumping and actors singing loudly. And the most uncomfortable seats!

We fitted a drink in on the roof terrace of Harvey Nicholls. Beautiful views. Nice gin.

Then off to the a Royal Mile. Across to the Old City.

Yes, the Tattoo. We were looking forward to this so much. There were so many people. But we managed to find a little Mexican (!) place for a quick bite. Then a slow walk up the Mile …..

It was very well organised. Thousands of people. They have little mobile bars set up in the Castle forecourt. So people were milling around. We made our way up to our seats. Nice & high so we could take everything in.

Then the show started. Bands of all kinds from Norway, Switzerland, USA, Scots College Sydney, Irish fling dancers, drummers and dancers from Trinidad, more Pipe bands, precision marching. And all the time projected colours and images into the castle walls.

Each year there is a theme. This year “Stories”. Unfortunately there was no commentary like you get on the tv version of the Tattoo. It would have been good to have someone tell you who was on. I was right as Steve knows about bands and which countries they were from. Our friends found the theme Stories hard to follow.

I tend to just go with the flow. And loved it. The whole experience. We chatted to the people around us. There was quite a party atmosphere. We had New Zealanders, Sydneysiders, English, Japanese.

The show finishes with all the performers on the forecourt. Marching , singing, dancing. And fireworks.

We made our way down from the Castle. It was so busy but orderly and friendly. And home by midnight! Poor Bill and M-F had a 40 minute drive to their little village outside of Edinburgh.

Festival Fever with a Friends

August 23, 2023 / brisbanefrannie / 3 Comments

It’s always fun to meet up with friends to share a great experience so we thank Bill and Marie-France for driving up from Sussex to spend a few days in Edinburgh.

We were meeting them at midday for lunch before our Acoustic Blues at the Jazz Club.

So we set out early to go to the Writers Museum and St Giles’ church first.

The Museum dedicated to Scotland’s 3 famous authors : Scott, Stevenson & Robert Burns

We had passed it yesterday on our walk but didn’t have time to call in. Today we did. A very beautiful constrained tribute to these three authors. Back in Australia it is Book Week for Children and our grandson loves Dr Seuss! He dressed as The Cat in the Hat and it fits well with my visit to the Writers Museum.

He may grow up to read Stevenson’s
Treasure Island.

We continued onto St Giles’ Cathedral, founded in 1124 by King David I, has been a working church for almost 900 years.

Just one of the many stained glass windows.

A little more walking brought us to the top of pretty West Bow Street to Howies Restaurant. I had read about it being great food and its special £17.95 lunch and made a booking. It was perfect for a reunion with Bill and M-F. We met Bill a few years ago on a swim trek in Galapagos and then met M-F when last in London.

Lunch was terrific. Haggis for Bill and Steve’ entree!

From lunch we walked to nearby Chambers Street and the Jazz Club. Down the stairs we went into a suitably dark jazz club atmosphere even though it was 2.30 in the afternoon.

An hour of mellow jazz and a G&T followed.

Then off to the Museum of Scotland. What a place! M-F and I went to the special exhibition ‘Beyond the Little Black Dress’

From design classics to cutting-edge catwalk creations, Beyond the Little Black Dress deconstructs this iconic garment and examines the radical power of the colour black in fashion.

It was lovely to share it with the French M-F as she is very interested in textiles and fashion. We had a lot of fun deconstructing the LBD’s on display.

Bill and Steve checked out some other galleries but truely you need a day to see it all.

Steve ran off to the Writer’s festival so I had to make my way back to our little apartment. Not too far. About 2km. I hobbled along until in the traffic jam around the Grassmarket I spied a taxi. I jumped in and encouraged the driver to do a 3 point turn to get out of the traffic and into the direction I wanted to go! he says I’m not supposed to but did!

I was home and resting withered in 10 mins. Because after an hour we headed out again to go back across to the Festival Theatre to see the Alvin Ailey American Dance Theatre. Founded in 1958 by dancer, choreographer, and visionary Alvin Ailey, to bring African American modern dance to audiences.

We worked out the bus routes and times and caught it to the Festival Theatre.

The theatre itself appeared more traditional.

It was described as a mix of dance with ballet and modern technique, it exudes an easy, carefree energy. It was exciting. The recorded music was jazz in the first part then the second dance was a mixtape’ of soul, hip-hop and R&B . I liked it – Steve not so much!

Back on the bus through the streets heaving with Festival goers.

Edinburgh Festival Fever

August 23, 2023 / brisbanefrannie / 4 Comments

We may have 10 days here but there is a lot to see and do in this compact city.

We set out at 9.30 after a late night unpacking and settling into our little Edinburgh apartment.

We walked down the street and around the corner and 5minutes later we could see Edinburgh castle.

Our apartment is the little red marking bottom left.

We walked in it’s shadow heading towards Grassmarket in the Old Town before heading up a winding street to Greyfriars Bobby.

Steve posed next to Bobby the faithful dog to show he really does like dogs!

We had time for a coffee at Bobby’s just opposite the National Museum of Scotland. I’ll be visiting there later this week.

We had booked a fringe event. The Tale of Two Cities. Our leader Peter arrived and is a very personable friendly Scot. It was a small group a couple from Canada and mother & son from Boston and a young uni student from England – Brighton.

We headed straight into Greyfriars Church and Graveyard. Our storyteller started recounting the story of the Old Town. He took us through then down the hill to Grassmarket. He grew up not far from here. One of 10 children. Life was not easy.

We headed up the very pretty West Bow Street

West Bow curves gently up hill towards the Royal Mile

Peter led us up straits through laneways always with an interesting story to tell.

We came to the Writers Museum.

Peter told a very good tale about the first public loos.

A man took money to extend his rather tent like cloak around a squatting client while he relieved himself.

We arrived at the very busy Royal Mile which leads up to the Castle.

The Royal Mile was busy but we quickly escaped by going down a little lane. We would never have explored this part off the beaten track ! we then popped back out to the end of the Royal Mile and had a great view of the Bank of Scotland.

Then it was down the winding hill toward the New Town. The Prince’s Street Gardens divide the old town / up the town and the new town. The Art Gallery sits overlooking the gardens and the forecourt was awash with noise and people. Festival fever: magicians, jazz bands acrobats. People everywhere sitting soaking up the sun eating cream watching the buskers.

We stopped at the monument to Sir Walter Scott, Scotlands famous author. The monuments here are amazing. The higher the spire the more revered the person. Almost all men of course!

We walked to St Andrew’s square looking along Rose St towards Charlotte Square. Crossing St Andrew’s Square I was impressed with the low fence inside the park. – perfect for stopping and having a sit but no sitting for us. By now my legs were tired and I was longing for a sit down.

One more stop. the beautiful Bank of Scotland which we went into to admire the beautiful domed ceiling.

We finished near Waverley the big station after 3 hrs of walking. After farewells to our group Steve and I headed to the monument for sore feet and dry throats. The Duke of something or other.

We sat for an hour over a beer and soup. Then off to the Portrait Gallery in another beautiful building. Last stop the National Gallery before heading back to West End and our little apartment.

A little rest then a short stroll to meet Cathal my Irish massage therapist. He got me going again and that night we went to hear the Oslo Philharmonic.

What a performance. The orchestra were great and the pianist a dynamic young 36 year old woman , born in Beijing but living in the US.

To start though…..The orchestra tuned up and …..We were left waiting for her and the conductor to arrive on stage. Wait. Wait.

Her entrance made us sit up. Very attractive with a thigh high split dress. I whispered to Steve that she and the conductor must have been having a ‘ moment ’ back stage.

She had remarkable fingers flying over the keys in the Concerto for the left hand by Ravel. Composed for a pianist who had lost an arm in WW1. Fantastic piece. .

At the end of that piece she and the conductor – after many bows, left the stage for another few minutes. Then they made another entrance with her wearing another dress this time a bright yellow & very fitted dress. I have never seen someone leave the stage to change clothes while the orchestra sat waiting. I guess she needed the conductor to zip her dress.

Another wonderful piece.

There was then an interval and then just the orchestra performance of Shostakovich. 5th Symphony in D Minor.

Of course after the concert I had to research the pianist and turns out she just might be dating the 27 year old Finish conductor. ( for readers from Australia he was a young David Wenham look a like. )

Shetland Islands. looking for ponies , otters, puffins and maybe Jimmy Perez

August 19, 2023August 19, 2023 / brisbanefrannie / 8 Comments

Our plane was an hour late arriving which put us behind. We hired a car from the airport and were sent to the car park to play ’ find the car’. Such a relaxed island way of hiring a car. Steve walked around clucking the car opener until we heard a beep.

We headed straight up the hill to Sumburgh lighthouse. It was super windy and the views were an indication of what as to follow as we explored this most northerly part of Great Britain.

The lighthouse museum explains the history of lighthouses. The hardship the early keepers endured and life for the families of the keeper. I loved the profile of a Lighthouse Keeper.

View from the lighthouse. Very windy but not that cold!

It had an excellent marine section showing the birds found here. The puffins are a favour and everywhere you go there are pictures and little stuffed toys depicting the puffin. I got to hear the noises of the birds and the little puffin has a growling type call.

We continued up the main road north and called into Sandwick with the idea of catching the little ferry across to Mousa a small island off the mainland. It is a bird life haven. Unfortunately we were running late because our plane was an hr behind and we missed the last ferry of the day. we’ll try again in Sunday.

We called into a jewellery shop on the arts and crafts trail. Karlin Anderson was born in the Shetlands but had spent a lot of her adult life in London. She does beautiful work which reflects life on the islands. Her lace work jewellery is exquisite.

If you can read this it tells the story behind her collection.

I might have ordered something from her!

We had a bowl of soup at the Hoswick craft cafe and chatted to the lady in the shop They are such warm friendly people so open to questions about their life on the island.

Excited to see some Shetland ponies on our way to the sunny west coast of the island.

Horses came over with the Norse settlers. They would have been bigger then but evolved with the conditions to be shorter study horses to cope with the conditions and the work load.

We detoured to visit St Ninians. It’s a spectacular beach which stretches from the mainland to a small island. The weather was perfect. Warm & sunny there were even people paddling in the crystal clear water.

Steve walked over to the island and I walked around the cove to explore the rocks. There are so few people around it makes it very special.

The road north is much better than I anticipated and there was little traffic so it was an easy drive

We passed through Brae and decided as the weather was so good to head out the peninsula to the cliffs of Eshaness. The drive gave us the most spectacular scenery possible. We got to the lighthouse and looked North. The afternoon light bathed the coast in sunlight. Truly beautiful.

Heading back to our accommodation we drive down to a little boat ramp used by local fishermen.

Arriving at Busta House was like stepping back in time. It’s old, steeped in history and had rooms refurbished. However, it has stayed. Big stone stairs down to an entrance then up two old staircases to our room named Papa Stour , one of the little islands nearby.

The room was comfortable, had a view out to a bay named Busta Voe. The new bathroom was tiny and definitely wasn’t for the feint hearted. The bath was so high it was like doing gymnastics to get get in! I counted at least 5 people staying at the house who used walking sticks so I don’t know how they managed. So it missed a 🛌🛌🛌 rating. Only a 🛌🛌. But a fairly high 2!

We had drinks in the sitting room before dinner. There were around 125 Gin and nearly 300 whiskey varieties to choose from. Dinner was nice fresh homely food- lamb for Steve , salmon for me with lovely fresh veggies.

A quiet 💤 night.

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Scotland