Sunny in Paradise……

We had a locally made curry last night – the house managers get local people to provide a takeaway service to the house. It’s great. It saves cooking your own meal in the shared kitchen and the only 2 restaurants on the island are only open once it twice a week and not at all in the rain.

Our night was very peaceful – only waking to hear the rain pouring and then the call to prayer at 4am onwards.

When we woke the sun was struggling through. It looked completely different outside. The water opposite the house the most delicious aqua blue.

Outside our house

Paula provided us with a beautiful breakfast. Soaked oats and a bowl of exotic fruits, scrambled eggs and three types of local honey. Very delicious.

Paula Carnell along with her husband Greg have travelled from Somerset England to here to be house keepers for this house. One reason is to see the impact on bees this local environment has.

Paula studied art and became a very well successful artist painting on silk. Sge ran a successful card business. She produced a book of 40 paintings – After an illness put her out of action for nearly seven years it was during her slow recovery that she became interested in bees.

She started keeping bees and never looked back. She is studying to be a medical herbalist has a business called Creating a Buzz about Health. She is a bee consultant, artist , author of several books, traveller, podcaster and charming.

They are minding this house for a year. Adventurous! Paula wanted to keep bees in Cocos and they were offered this house to housekeep. They aren’t the managers. They simply ( or not so simply) do the house keeping.

Our walk this morning took us along the lagoon side of the island.

Come along with me……

Out the front door facing the water and a quick greeting to Bruce and Natsuko who were returning from fishing.

We saw the little beach in front but decided to head to the other end of the island while there was no rain.

We walked over some paving rocks with the stamp from Glasgow brickworks clearly visible. The Clunies-Ross family came from Glasgow when they arrived.

Past the original main gates

Along the waterfront

Past the houses. All the same.

The roads are paved some have fences.

We saw the Museum which we’ll visit tomorrow.

The supermarket has a little restaurant attached. Closed now because of the weather.

We arrive a the most gorgeous beach. Sandy white bottom crystal clear water turtles further out.

I’m going to post this now as wifi is so unstable. Rain presently torrential at 8am.

Part 2 of the walk will follow.

Move to Home Island – in the rain

The sun was out this morning and spirits lifted. But not for long. By the time we had breakfast and made some food for Jo and Martyn it had started to rain.

Martyn stayed at the clinic with Jo last night. It’s not a hospital so no night staff, no bed sheets – everything disposable as there is no laundry. A nurse left her medication and when they returned in the morning her pain was extremely uncomfortable.

We sat chatting trying to lift her spirits but the medivac wasn’t able to arrive so Jo & Martyn were feeling a little stressed.

Lovely Pete, our boat man from yesterday and Amy, the very capable nurse called to see Jo and promised to bring them some dinner tonight.

Amy the nurse and Pete the boat skipper arrived with a fish curry

We packed up and headed for the ferry to get us to Home Island. We have 3 nights at the historic Clunies-Ross home Oceania House built in 1893 built by the grandson of the original Scottish settler John who arrived in 1827after the islands were discovered by William Keeling in 1609.

The crossing took 30 mins. ( it would have taken the boys about 4 hrs to swim!) It was calm though rainy. Not like yesterday with waves that caused the boat to pitch up and down.

Looking from the wharf to where we set out yesterday!

Gary, the house caretaker met us and gave us a short tour of the island. It’s very different to West is. There are more people here and the houses are very different. It’s a Muslim community so there is a call to prayer sounded five times a day. And there is no alcohol.

We drive through the wet streets- some closed due to flooding! Gary pointed out the attractions and the best places to swim. His wife Paula met us on arrival at the house and explained a little about how it’s run. There are 6 bedrooms 3 with ensuites the other 3 share 2 bathrooms. Ours – the Daphne room is large with old world furniture and a view of the garden.

The lovely bedroom with a bathroom 70’s style! But functional.

Shared kitchen

There is a shared kitchen where you can keep your food and cook your meals. Or you can ask for a home cooked meal – they have a few Malay people who cook curries. We did that for tonight.

We unpacked and had a drink in our lovely room before going down for our curry. We shared the table with two other two couples.

Bruce and Natsuko from Perth and Wolf and Marion from Germany. The German couple in their late 70’s and 80 something are staying a month.

We had a little look around the house but are doing a tour with Gary tomorrow. He has all the historical details for us.

We miss our friends so much. Wish they were here enjoying this lovely old house. They are still stuck in the clinic wondering what’s going on. We’re all very worried for Jo.

Tomorrow we plan to go for a swim at a nearby beach. Even in the rain they said it’s beautiful and we’ll see turtles.

Swim Plan Change

We were up early and organised. Jo is a nurse and a nurturing type of person. She had everything planned ready to go.

Off we walked to Pete, the boat man’s house 4 doors away.

Pete’s place with the boat ready to go
Old man . Wood sculpture in Pete’s garden.
Left over from Halloween

The weather was still a bit rainy and windy but he reassured us it would be quite good to swim with the wind behind them.

We got to the boat ramp loaded the boat, had the safety talk and off we went. Straight away it was very bumpy and we were soaked within minutes. We had a 20 min ride across the lagoon to Home Is where they would start the swim back.

Pete had the lures. We were going to fish while they swam.

The surrounding coconut jungle was awesome.

10 minutes into the 20 min ride, we hit some waves. The boat flew up and bang. Down we came and then a scream from Jo. She landed on her bum heavily ( I did too but had braced a little )

She was in excruciating pain. Pete slowed and made the decision to head back. Jo was in so much pain she couldn’t move. Pete took control and phoned the ambulance and the Police. They were there in ten minutes and Amy and Chris, the nurses from the clinic took over. Out came the green pain whistle, the morphine drip and the very carefully placed support to lift her off the boat onto the stretcher with the two nurses , 3 police and Steve helping move her gently. It was hard to watch.

I went in the ambulance to the clinic. The Doctor who lives on Home island was on his way to where we were on West Island. He was changing over today when the plane arrived with another Doctor.

He took an X-ray. Sent it to Perth. Spoke to a specialist and within an hour found Jo had a compression fracture in the L1 of her spine. Fortunately, her feet and hands were moving.

The drugs kicked in and she started to relax as much as she could.

Plans got changed.

They managed to get a medivac plane to come tomorrow from Perth. She’ll be going to Perth hospital.

We spent the afternoon going to and from our house rearranging our plans. Steve and I will continue onto Home island tomorrow- and miss our travel buddies so much. They will head to Perth to see what is going to happen next. Poor Jo.

We bought fish and chips from Salty’s the bakery – come take away. Friday is Fish & chips , Tuesday pizza ( to coincide with the twice weekly plane arrivals. ) It is conveniently placed next door to the Cocos club. Where you go and buy a drink until they deliver your food!

By the late afternoon we had met all the important people here on Cocos and heard their stories.

Amy, the gorgeous nurse is the partner of Pete the boat man. KL another nurse comes from Currumbin and is headed back for Christmas – on our plane. Waka arrived 7 months ago and Chris arrived this week to replace KL. We saw them all at the Cocos club and Salty’s getting their Friday Fish and chips.

I took Jo her fish dinner as we are the only ones in the clinic. They usually don’t have anyone over night. So Martyn is staying the night with Waka only a phone call away.

We are thankful that the rest of us weren’t injured and Jo can get away tomorrow.

Oh …..that’s if the expected cyclone doesn’t arrive.

No swim this time. Steve and Martyn are planning another one.

Cocos Club fun.
Us with Jo and Martyn before the accident.

Quiet Day on Cocos

We were up early with it bags packed ready for a picnic swimming day on Direction Island.

Best plans often get disrupted. This time by rain. It was raining quite heavily and we decided going to a deserted island – no matter how beautiful would not be the same in rain. For 5 hours. The ferry drops you at 9.30 and picks you up at 2.30.

So back to bed to restart our day later. Steve and Martyn had a visit from Peter the boat captain for tomorrow’s big swim. He took them to where they would be landing and discuss the route from Home island to here on West Island.

Jo & I caught up on our reading on the lovely verandah. We went walking in a break in the rain and ended up at Sally’s bakery. It it had closed. The only cafe and the 2-3 restaurants only open intermittently. Very strange.

We dropped into the supermarket and got some bread. $10 I don’t know how people live here. The prices are so expensive and it’s such a long way to go to get anywhere. It’s actually closer to Malaysia than Australia.

We browsed the little information centre / museum. Then headed back along the waterfront for lunch on our verandah.

Last night we’d gone up the Cocos club for a few drinks before dinner. But discovered the little restaurant that was down to open tonight was closed for the Year 10 formal. So we had to buy a frozen bbq pack to cook at home. It worked out beautifully. But the 2 glasses of wine made me sleepy so it was another early night. We are definitely settling into island life.

In the afternoon I went for another walk and spotted 4 black tipped sharks. Just off shore.

Then I found the old Government House. Government House, constructed in 1953, is an important symbol of Australian Government representation on the Cocos (Keeling) Islands.

It features a similar design to other houses in the area. It’s one story , suited to local climatic conditions and includes a formal driveway with white painted edges, fencing, a flag pole and area for entertaining. It is sited with ocean frontage.

I walked past the High School which goes to year 10.

And I adored all the frangipani trees either bouys handing in them.

We had dinner on our verandah. A carb load g for Steve and Martyn getting ready for their 9 km swim tomorrow.

Off to bed early to get ready for when Peter arrives with his boat to take us over the Home Island to swim back. Jo & I will travel on the boat to organise the feeds. Regular drink stops and a sugar hit to keep them going.

Our friend, Martyn Southall in raising some money for National Breast Cancer Foundation.

Martyn and Steve are both looking to do a 9 km swim at Cocos Island on Friday.

The link is below.

https://fundraise.nbcf.org.au/fundraisers/martynsouthall/swim-for-breast-cancer

If you’d like to know more or make a donation please use the link.

Wish them luck. The conditions are not ideal so we hope they make it.

Cocos Keeling Island – History

Many people (including myself ) know about Cocos Islands. I have now read a lot about it and its history.

The islands were on the ancient trade route between India, Burma, and Southeast Asia and were regularly visited by ships. In the 16th century, Portuguese sailors named the islands after the Portuguese word for coconut, coco

The islands were then discovered in 1609 by the British sea captain William Keeling but no settlement occurred until the early 19th century. One of the first settlers was John Clunies-Ross, a Scottish merchant; much of the island’s current population is descended from the Malay workers he brought in to work his copra plantation. The Clunies-Ross family ruled the islands as a private fiefdom for almost 150 years, with the head of the family usually recognised as resident magistrate. The British annexed the islands in 1857, and for the next century they were administered from either Ceylon or Singapore. The territory was transferred to Australia in 1955, although until 1979 virtually all of the territory’s real estate still belonged to the Clunies-Ross family.

Charles Darwin spent 12 days at the Cocos (keeling) Islands in the Indian Ocean during the Voyage of HMS Beagle in 1836. He explored many parts of the archipelago, and collected a large number of geological, plant and animal specimens.

The Two World Wars saw the islands become targets due to their strategic position in the Indian Ocean. 

From 1944 to 1946 the tranquil islands came under military administration and buzzed with activity, home to thousands of military personnel.

The people of the Cocos Keeling Islands voted to become part of Australia in 1984. 

The islands are now an internationally significant habitat for wildlife, and a remote tropical paradise for tourists seeking adventure, culture and space to breathe

The island is home to some rare bird including the red foot booby bird. I remember when we were in Galapagos we saw the blue footed booby bird.

The red footed booby bird

Cocos is also home to the red crab. There are hundreds of them. Little ones to quite big ones who crossed the sandy road in front of us when we went cycling out to the yacht club yesterday.

The sunsets are also very special. Though we have had a lot of cloud cover tonights was rather lovely.

Cocos Keeling Islands here we come.

‘No overseas trip for us I said.’ After our epic 9 week trip last year we needed to holiday closer to Australia.

2024 has seen us go to Adelaide twice. Once for the wonderful Adelaide Festivals ( and yes my choir Soul Song sang ),. Back to Adelaide in June for our nephew Luke’s 50th and his brother Kenrick’s 40th.

A visit to Sydney for my niece Pips 40th was fun with a beautiful High Tea at the Intercontinental Hotel.

A road trip to Tamworth for Steve’s birthday, staying at Goonoo Goonoo a cattle property set up for guests. It’s really beautiful with a top class restaurant called Glasshouse perched on a hill overlooking the green pastures.

Then a visit to the Tamworth Regional Art Gallery for a quilt exhibition and lecture by Jenny Bowker AM. Jenny travelled with her husband Bob to many middle eastern countries when he was an ambassador. She made the most of her time there by connecting with local craftspeople and has told the story of her adventures in her quilts. Quite extraordinary.

Our early November trip to French New Caledonia was cancelled due to the continued civil unrest in the country. hopefully we’ll get there at another time. Steve’s Grandmother grew up there so he’d love to discover the world she lived in there.

Our final trip is to the Cocos Keeling Islands. Sitting in the Indian Ocean off the coast of Western Australia it is close to Malaysia so many of the Cocos Malay inhabitants are Islamic.

We are on West Island for a few nights. Then Home Island.

There are around 600 people with many on West Island where the airport is located and then Home Island has many of the Cocos Malay people and the very old Oceania House.

After a very long travel day due to island winds delaying our plane we finally arrived around 8.30. There are only 2 flights a week from Perth and last week the plane got to Christmas Island then had to turn back.

An unscheduled stop at Learmouth for fuel ( in case we couldn’t stop at Christmas Island ). We managed to land at Christmas and dropped off passengers and picked up others doing the round trip back to Perth.

Our house is great. We walked from the airport as our host took the bags in her car. It’s opposite the water and has 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms for ourselves and friends Jo and Martyn.

Outside our house.

Tomorrow adventures await.

Definitely on Fiji Time

Our Swim Week is over but we allowed an extra day for downtime.

It was a slow start after parting last night. Though we were all in the pool by 8.15. A special session for all the swimmers.

Lots of giggles. the energy in this group is infectious. We bounced and sang along and waved arms in the air.

Even the pool attendants got into it.

Quick showers then it was off to the champagne breakfast. Though I couldn’t face champagne. Definitely too much last night.

Groups were saying farewelling, hugging and swapping contact details. It’s wonderful how after 5 days of a shared holiday mostly in swimmers leads to friendships that last! A common goal like swimming unites.

We spent the rest of the day lounging, reading, walking and not eating. Definitely too many meals this week.

I walked and called in to see the kids club. No wonder so many parents love coming to Fiji. The locals are so beautiful to the little ones. You often see a restaurant attendant walking around holding a baby so the parents can eat in peace.

The kids club also offer hair braiding, colouring, and face painting. All the little ones have braided hair with beads dangling!

The day went quickly and by 6pm e headed to the Waitui Club for a farewell dinner and to celebrate Chris’ birthday.

It was a beautiful evening and our table for 7 was perfectly placed on the veranda.

I told our lovely waitress Kata it was Chris’ birthday -so at dessert time she and about 8 staff all gathered singing a special three verse version of happy birthday ending with cheers and blessings.

She then took a photo and put herself in it!

Our evening finished with farewell hugs for our NZ friends David, Kim and Avy.

It’s been a wonderful week and as if they knew it was out last night , when we got back to our room, fireworks started on the beach in front.

Farewell Fiji , you’ve been great

Malamala Island a slice of paradise.

Our last swim day.

Blue skies, happy people , connections being made and no bananas left for breakfast.

Onto the boat by 9 and by the time we arrived 30 mins later it was windy and overcast.

Walked down the pier with Mesu who looked after me all day. Called me Miss Fran!

Islands always have a windy side. And thankfully a calm side. The swim had to be changed. Not around the island this time. A course with markers on the calm side. 1 lap for the 1km swim and 3 laps for the 3km.

Lots of place to sit

But we chose…….

By the side of the infinity pool.
Cocktail in hand.

The first race was quickly under way. A woman won it – just beating the 11year old son of Ky Hurst. It was so lovely to see them hug after the race.

Then the racers came in thick and fast.

They got the 3km race off quickly as the wind was getting stronger.

In they go. Not too rocky today.

We went to our great place got in the pool and watched them swimming by 6 times – a loop done 3 times.

See the swimmers behind us!

Ky Hurst won in 32 mins. He was cruising. A lovely man named Dean Duckworth has been runner up to Ky in all three races.

Steve made it back.

David & Kim our NZ friends did well. Especially Kim. And new friend Avy was just amazing!

Avy came in 12th. Beating some much younger people.

My favourite group are the pink ladies. For lovely friends from Northbridge Sydney.

Fun ladies in matching pink.

Medals were given to all and the prize giving will be tonight.

Then it was lunch time. Aset under the trees the choices had everyone piling their plates high. Lots of choices, places to sit and a great bar. Steve had two beers and fell asleep!

People sat, drank – mostly cocktails, recovered, snorkelled, walked around the little island, chatted until 3o’clock when we were herded back on the boat.

But not before the famous jetty jump. The game party people set off. This included Jill. They took the long walk out along the windy jetty. It was about a 3 metre jump. Jill just couldn’t do it. And I don’t blame her. The pink costume ladies did it and claimed they had the best sinus wash!!!

The pink costume ladies ready to jump!

Back on the boat everyone was just a little quiet. A bit weary I guess.

A short break back at the hotel before the Celebration dinner.

Everyone was told to dress to impress. Most dressed right up.

And the dancers certainly dressed up.

The awards were given. On our table of friends we had a first place winner in the over 70’s. Avy was also about 10 overall!

Kim was 3rd in the over 60’s. We cheered our talented friends along with all the other winners

Avy on the left Kim on the right.

Then the dancing started.

Oh what a night.

Deanne, me, Jill and Avy.

Off to bed because we have aqua aerobics at 8.15!

It’s been a great swim week. We’re staying on another night. A lot are leaving for home tomorrow and some are going to another island for a few days.

If you like swimming then Swim Week Fiji is a great week. Very different to wonderful swim treks we have done. they have 15 swimmers. These have 200 and as they say 5 days , 3 swims and 0 worries.

First Swim around tiny South Sea Island

Our day started early. We received a wake up call at 6.30 – but not for us. For someone flying out ! We were already up and preparing for a day on South Sea Island.

The breakfast room was buzzing. Swimmers were all keeping the food stations busy. A big demand for bananas emptied the bowl quickly!

We sensibly had eggs to keep us going. And toast with the famous local peanut butter.

Getting in the bus the photographer called ‘Got your swimmers?’ One lady obviously didn’t hear that. On the island there was another call ‘anyone got some size 14 ladies swimmers’ poor lady.

We got the bus to the marina and once all 200 were on board we set off. The weather was cloudy. The wind a little brisk. We met some new people onboard. That’s the special thing about swimming holidays. The people are usually very friendly and down to earth. It’s a bit hard to be a pain or posh in your swimmers with a cap and goggles on.

Thirty minutes later we were in a smaller boat being shipped to shore. It’s the cutest little island. Usually home to back packers – they had been moved off for the day to visit other islands to allow us to have the whole island.

Conditions were not as good as we hoped but Jill and I decided we would try the swim around the island. About 1km.

We watched the big group go off then started behind them.

Along came Deanne a new friend from Brisbane. She had started with the race goers then decided – it’s too tough. She got out then saw us going in so joined us. But … ……..

Mistake 1. It was very shelly, coral bedding leading into the water and we didn’t have our reef shoes on so Ouch!

Mistake 2 We didn’t swim out far enough and before long came to a rocky shelf with small waves pushing us. I got snagged on a rock then immediately got worried about my new knee. So much rough rock and coral. I couldn’t get a cut on the new knee. The infection would be a disaster. So there I am I’m trying back off the rocks.

My swimmers got a small hole in the front. Better my swimmers than my skin.

We swam about 3/4 of the island before deciding to swim in. Alas, more coral and I couldn’t stand up. One of the beautiful Fijian helpers came to my rescue and hauled me to my feet.

Feeling relieved I’d made it back I asked myself. What were you thinking! I have no antibiotics and a coral cut gets infected very quickly. From now on sensible me.

Chris swam almost to the end but got out early as did lots of swimmers.

Next race – the 3km. They cut it back to 2km Steve, David, Kim and new friend Avy lined up all smiles.

It was tough out there but Steve did his best and Avy, a pocket rocket came in 13th overall and Kim not far behind ! Beating Steve and David!

It was a mighty effort from them all.

Ky Hurst ( former lifesaving champion and Olympian ) is the guest swimmer and won the race by a long way! He had also swum earlier with his 11yr old son in the 1 k race. His son came 2nd. And he’s only 11. A champion in the making.

Swimming over it was relaxing time with a bbq lunch and an open bar.

Then it was time for the traditional welcome.

The afternoon drifted on until it was time to return on the boat.

Back on the small boat. Out to the large boat and back to the hotel. Some very tired people on board.

Showers in the hotel were very welcome. A little rest then off to the drinks party.

They had the swim results up.

Steve did well. Avy came first in the over 70’s and 13th overall. What a champ! Kim came 5th in her age group. Steve 6th and David 7th.in the over 70’s

The party included a video of the days activities. Lots of fun recalling the day.

Scott Rice the organiser.
The colourful Coolangatta girls!

The evening finished with pizza on the verandah and a wee drink.

Another day and another swim tomorrow. This time it’s outside it resort.

But it’s meant to be Sunny in Fiji.

We woke this morning to grey cloudy skies – but by mid morning it was warm and sunny. Perfect.

Breakfast was in a large airy garden room with lots of food stations scattered around. Everything from tropical fruits – where the bananas look green but are beautifully ripe inside to delicious locally made peanut butter for the many varieties of toast. Smoothies, pancakes, crafted omelettes, chocolate crackles, Asian food , vegetables. You name it was there.

I ordered coffee at the drinks station. And asked for lactose free milk. The young Fijian said they didn’t have any but offered almond. When he delivered it to me he brought a half carton of lactose free milk to put in my fridge. He said he was lactose free and had some in his room. So very kind. A little reward coming his way !

As we finished we heard the sounds of singers warming up. A small choir of a cappella voices. The men and women were so into it – smiling and singing. They sing farewell to guests leaving. Or for birthdays. It’s a song saying thank you for choosing Sofitel!

After checking out the activities board we decided it was an aqua class for us.

A bit different to my usual class at Centenary pool it was still lots of fun and a way to stay cool. Jill and I followed up with a swim in the sea.

Jill, Kim and me – in the blue hat.

Tomorrow the choices are …..

If you haven’t been to Fiji, it’s a beautiful laid back place. The locals are sweet and kind and love children. And they love a chat. I’m writing this sitting on a deck chair beside the pool. No less than 4 different staff have approached me to ask if they can get me anything! But mostly to chat.

Nearby local ladies are braiding hair and giving neck and shoulder massages.

Around me are families with assorted children – most with braided beaded hair, couples enjoying some quiet time. Families over various generations. In fact Fiji is perfect for grandparents to bring their children and grandchild. There’s something for everyone.

After Aerobics we took the short 15 min walk to the Marina. Lots of boats leave from here for the islands. I expected market type stalls but there is a little shopping and eating precinct. So we had some lunch before walking through lush gardens back to the hotel.

Crossing the bridge back to the hotel
The little bus we could have used to get to the marina.
David, Chris and Steve

I went to the little trading post this morning. We have a complimentary bar in our room with about 10 cans of assorted drinks, chocolate and chips. You can use as much as you like and it’s replaced each day OR you can trade it a little store. 6 cans is equal to one bottle of wine or bubbles or 2 local beers equals one imported beer. It’s quite a unique set up. I traded the coke, sprite lemonade and kombucha for a bottle of wine! So there’s the 5 pm drinks all ready.

Tonight we have our welcome party for the 200 swimmers.

The organisers are a NZ couple who have run this event for a few years. It’s great.

We arrived and got our swim bag of goodies. A locally made swim bag with local products. Creams, lip balm, ear drops, water bottle, and a lanyard for all the events.

We arrived to a big Bula welcome.

Me surrounded by the Fijian welcome group!

Our group of six expanded to 8. We welcomed Avy, a Chicago born lawyer who married an English man whom she met at master swim event back in 1988 in Brisbane and now lives in NZ. Then there was Tobin. A Texan cattle man who happens to swim and who helps people who need a hand. He started Crosswater Journey aimed at helping families and individuals who have been impacted by suicide. They are helped by professionals and eventually Tobin does a symbolic journey – he swims and tows a small boat with someone who needs a hand.

He was such an interesting fun man.

The evening was perfect. Under the stars and trees, a slight breeze , lovely music with a singer guitar player , meeting likeminded swimmers from about 6 nations ( mostly Australians ).

It finished early. there’s a swim tomorrow.

So now to sleep.