Walking the snowy streets of Quebec

Sleeping in the Chateau bed was like sleep on a cloud. So soft!

We woke to soft skies and a little bit of sun. After last nights snow it was good news.

We didn’t organise breakfast at hotel. We just can’t keep up eating three meals a day. So it was off for a walk and a quest to find coffee. It was cool and breezy so we walked up and down the streets admiring the beautiful buildings. The French Canadians know how to do special ironwork.m

We found cafe Paillard. It seems the owner has had restaurants in Quebec for many years. This included three MaDonalds ( are they really restaurants!) He sold them, retiring to travel, got bored so started a cafe bakery after seeing great cafes in Paris. Well this one is huge and does have wonderful croissants and coffee and hot chocolate in bowls you could swim in.

We walked some more feeling the cool breeze picking up!

Then it was time to meet for the ‘Old Quebec Food Tour. The Chic Shack was the meeting place and Sam our guide. We did the usual introductions and we are the only Australians along with Canadians and Americans and one lone Englishman who was married to an American.

We started the food tour with Poutine. What is Poutine? It originated in Quebec and rumour has it it occurred after someone dropped a more formal meal of potatoes on the floor – grabbed it up and poured gravy over it. Anyway it was a delicious mix of chunky potatoes in a rich gravy with cheese curds and topped with pink pickled onion. It’s a real comfort food and was delicious!

We set off the the promenade outside our hotel and Sam gave us a history lesson on Champlain, the founder. And lots about the battle between the French and English. And pointed out a long sled ride !

We followed Sam along Rue St Louis and the group personalities started to show. The chatters, loners, the one who answers all the questions and those who are happy to bond. We rather liked the English man and his wife. He played rugby and now coaches in the US.

Next stop was La Buche. Quebec is still more French than the French. So this Québécois style restaurant is a local a very French treat.

Sam organised us onto a long table and we were served a cube of Salmon with a maple sauce. Unusual combination but strangely it worked!

Then we had a local version of Shepherds pie called Chinese Pie. Beef braised in red wine with corn mash and fruit ketchup. It screamed Comfort Food!

Then a small cup of pea soup. Yellow peas with bacon, fried peas & glazed carrots. Warming. Remember it’s cold outside.

To truly finish us off we each were given a quick lesson on making our own maple taffy.

Back on the streets and it was getting colder. We heard more history of this beautiful Unesco city and viewed a clock presented to the locals by the Swiss. Modern and precise it cost the Govt a lot to house it in a weather proof container.

We talked about the houses, the snow and what a long cold winter they have had.

We went past the Morrin House and ended up down the hill and back to bakery we had visited this morning.

I spotted some wonderful carvings on the stairs we walked down and marvelled at the snow almost covering them.

Back in Paillard everyone ate a croissant and I was given a gluten free macaroon. Not a bad substitute.

We did a little detour to a lovely small deli style place Chez Boulay – Comptoir Boreal for a cream fudge. Just a bite sized piece!

Then our final stop. A lovely bistro. Belobe Bistro. This very smart little restaurant has it own smoking room for its ham , bacon etc. They served us mac n cheese. Always a crowd pleaser. It looked creamy and yum with larger smoked bacon on the top.

I couldn’t eat it. Too much gluten. I had a smoked beef and pickle sandwich. We warmed up especially with the glass of red wine.

Walking back to the hotel we called into the Anglican Cathedral as they were preparing for a small concert. They are trying to become Quebec’s version of London’s music church St Martin’s in the Field.

We sloshed through some snow at the back of the church taking a short cut to the hotel. Not a good idea! Wet boots.

Taking a break before a later afternoon trip to the Military museum.

Sightseeing is pretty exhausting!

Bonjour Quebec

The morning in NYC was spent recovering from last night – with a walk around West Village finishing with breakfast at Buvette.

We passed Rob & Jordan’s place admiring the plaques on the wall outside their neighbour.

We passed a wonderful locksmith where the walls and even a chair are covered with keys.

Back past the Speakeasy from last night.

Then into Buvette. It’s wonderful.

Check out the website.

https://ilovebuvette.com/about

We sat and enjoyed the atmosphere, the coffee, the food but not the rain that started while we sat inside.

It meant an Uber back to the hotel to pack up for our trip to Newark airport for a flight to Quebec.

It was all pretty easy and we liked the airport. Big and clean it had great cafes all with iPads on the tables so you can order your food and drinks quickly and easily.

Then it was onto an alarmingly small plane.

Some tall men had to crouch!

Thankfully it was a trouble free flight and just over an hour later we landed in a very snowy Quebec.

We’re staying at the gorgeous Château Le Frontenac.

https://m.fairmont.com/frontenac-quebec/?utm_referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com.au%2F

Such a beautiful old hotel.

Our king size room overlooks the river and parks.

And our room is so comfortable. In fact the hotel is so big and lovely to explore that we’re trying the Bar for a cocktail and the Bistro for dinner. We’ll start to explore the city in the morning.

We have a walking food tour booked. I hope there’s no rain!

Have any if my readers got an hints for Quebec?

Wandering the Hamptons

A slow start was in order after our 20+ hours of travel from Australia to New York!

Our hotel is just great. great.https://www.sagharborinn.com

Beautiful beds and large rooms overlooking the marina it is peaceful this time of year.

We sat in the comfortable breakfast lounge and planned the day.

It was raining but if it didn’t put off the runners passing our hotel in a fun run it shouldn’t worry us!

Our view from the bedroom!

We decided to go to the Main St for coffee then head off for the half hour drive to Montauk to visit the Lighthouse.

The Main Street is a mixture of pretty businesses and shops. The flowers have been planted for Spring but the weather’s still cool and rainy.

The marinas are still empty waiting for the season to start, so the town is quiet which suits us.

We got back into the van and headed off through East Hampton to Montauk.

We visited the lighthouse which was shrouded in fog, taking the rocky path near the water to get the best views.

Moving on we went to the Marina which must be so lovely in season but is super quiet now.

Feeling thirsty we stopped at the Montauk Brewery. This was most crowded place we’ve been so far.

The beer is good and their marketing spot on.

I had the watermelon ale. A touch of sweetness to take away the bitter taste. A great aperitif for lunch to follow.

Driving through the still foggy streets I loved seeing the washed grey shingled houses. And the lobster shacks like the one featured in the TV series The Affair

The signs were catchy…..

And the beaches quiet and dreamy.

Back in Sag Harbour I couldn’t help think how different it would be in Summer.

Back to our hotel for a little R&R before dinner. The jet lag has just about gone.

Family Time in the Hamptons

Our flight over was smooth and uneventful- just the way I like it.

We landed in LA to blue skies. We’d like to have stayed a night to catch up with our friends Dan & Isabelle Garr but time didn’t allow. It was s short stopover before the 4 1/2 hr flight onto New York.

Unfortunately it was grey skies and light rain that greeted us here. We landed early but the taxi back to the terminal took about 35 mins. Waiting to cross a busy runway of plane taking off provided a plane spotters ideal but I was anxious to get off the plane.

Walking off the plane and into Terminal 8 we passed a wall mural that summed up NY. It was shiny and glittery and beautiful!

Lisa and John were there to meet us with a van and directions to Sag Harbour in the Hamptons. Traffic out of NY was the usual – stop, start, slow feature that leaving any city for the coast has.

The kids Rob & Jordan had arrived in the afternoon and were waiting for us at our hotel. The Sag Harbor Inn. We finally arrived and headed straight out for dinner. It was so lovely to see them again.

After eating a lovey meal at Il Cappuccino we planned tomorrow then fell into bed.

Start Spreading the News!

Yes we are flying off to New York tomorrow!

It’s almost exactly a year since our son Rob married Jordan in Santa Barbara. They have been living in NY and we haven’t seen them since then.

So we are excited!

We land in NY on Friday at 5pm and will head straight to Sag Harbour in the Hamptons for the weekend. Sounds good doesn’t it.

So follow along for our three weeks in New York, Quebec, Montreal, Vermont, Boston and Newport.

Walking through Historic Forte Kochi

Up early for our walking tour. We booked with a lady at the hotel next to our homestay. She said she had an elderly gentleman who was a very good historian.

So at 7.30 sharp a very well groomed man appeared outside our homestay. Mr Anthony Thommen was smiling widely and spoke in a gentle way. He launched into a little story about himself telling us he was born in the area, was a historian an author and guide and lived alone since his wife’s death and his only child had moved away.

We began the story of Fort Cochin or Kochi as it’s known locally, in Princess St. We heard about the Portuguese arriving and settling up trading, then the arrival of the Dutch and finally the British. We wandered along the narrow streets stopping at Anthony’s street and then the large Catholic Basilica.

We heard about the rebuilding of the Basilica and how Anthony spent a year in the Seminary.

We moved along through streets dotted with houses showing distinct Dutch and English influence.

We saw our first lot of young men playing cricket! On a dusty ground.

And visited the Bishops House and Museum.

Next stop was the Dutch Cemetery. This was turning into a history / religious tour of Kochi. Not that I minded.

We visited the elephants I had seen yesterday and then spied a lot of photographers along with couples posing. Seems it is ‘post wedding photo week.’ Just before Valentines Day. Some lovely couples posed with just one in a wedding dress.

Our last stop was St Francis Church and Vasco de Gama’s house

Mr Anthony was more than keen to continue but after 2.5 hours we were ready for breakfast!

We paid him and he asked if we’d like to buy his book. How could we refuse. He was so sweet. So he found us later at the breakfast place and three of us bought his book!

By now all power was off. The poor shop keepers were beside themselves. No one was coming into their dark hot shops. Our rooms were hot and noisy – the hotel right next door had a generator making a huge racket. So I went walking by the water and eventually took my book out and enjoyed a read in the sea breeze.

Marlene and I also had another stroll and visited our Homestay’s brothers guesthouse a little further out.

It was charming. If you’re coming to this area the Delight Homestay looks good. It’s opposite a park and has lovely big rooms set in a garden. it’s also very reasonably priced. Around $A30 a night.

We had a lovely last night dinner at a hotel by the water. We all decided we had to wear something we had bought on the trip.

To top it off three of us Marlene, Linda and I all bought the same white dress! We decided we chance not ever wearing it on the same day!

Tomorrow we leave. I’ll miss the smiling faces and the colours.

It’s been such a wonderful holiday. Temples, the history, the bronze casters, mud bricks, tea plantations, dancing Shivas, beautiful people, colourful saris and men in dhoti, great food, elephants, farms, fashion, yoga and lots of laughter.

To my travelling Sari sisters. Thank you.

Fort Cochin : an Indian port with flavour.

Saying goodbye to George, Dai their daughter Susan and baby and Grandma is sad after a truly genuine Kerala experience.

But a new adventure awaits. This time in Fort Cochin or Fort Kochi. It’s was a small fishing village settled in the 1500 by the Portuguese. They were here for 160 years so the influence can be seen – a little evidence remains. Then the Dutch came and for 112 years took control. Again they left their mark after destroying many of the Original buildings. Finally the British arrived and fought for control. They stayed until 1947 so once again the building and customs reflect British influence.

We arrived around lunch time and checked into Walton’s Homestay. It’s more a hotel than a homestay but the family who run the business are very lovely people Mr & Mrs Walton and their daughter Charlotte.

http://www.waltonshomestay.com

We settled into our home for 2 nights and walked out onto Princess St for a spot of shopping. We’d had a detox from shops at our last farm stay and were ready for action. We all separated to explore ourselves and I headed for the water and checked out the Chinese fishing nets. These are something to watch.

Legend has it that a Chinese explorer introduced these nets over 500 years ago.

Dawn and dusk is when you see these in greater action but they were working some early afternoon!

Over four fishermen operate them

check out this video. It’s fascinating to watch.

I continued along the water front and came up a wonderful exhibition. It’s a travelling one and is here in Kochi for a few weeks.

It’s about the co existence between man and elephants. There are 100 elephants on display all made out of lantana.

It’s wonderful.

https://www.google.com.au/amp/s/english.manoramaonline.com/lifestyle/news/2019/01/27/lantana-elephant-biodiversity-message.amp.html

I continued on and found some wonderful buildings of Dutch and English influence and then gave in and looked at the wonderful cotton clothes for sale. I bought two dresses at Anokhi

https://www.anokhi.com

There are some wonderful hand blocked clothes. I couldn’t resist!

Dinner was at the hotel near our homestay. The Jetty restaurant at the Forte Hotel. It’s lovely with the most beautiful staff. But it doesn’t serve any alcohol. The water was lovely!

After dinner we walked a little and enjoyed the cooler night air.

Tomorrow our hotel will be without power from 11-5pm as are all the businesses and hotels without generators. We could be revisiting the Forte Hotel!

Meandering down a Kerala River

George and his wife Dai live in the house at the front of the garden block , opposite the river and the 4 homestay rooms are towards the back looking past hammocks slung in trees over to green and golden rice paddies.

From the WebSite:

http://www.gkhomestay-kumarakom.com

‘Situated on the bank of river Meenachil in Aymanam, it is just 3 kilometres from the huge Vembanad lake and bird sanctuary. The village is an unbelievably beautiful paradise of mangrove forests, emerald green paddy (rice) fields and coconut groves interspersed with enchanting water ways and canals adorned with spices and medicinal plants. It is an ideal place to explore Kerala’s traditions, real village life and to stay for a period in a calm and quiet pollution free zone. The village is decorated with ancient Christian churches, Hindu temples, country and snake boats. These snake boats can carry more than 100 rowers at a time. A boat journey through the back waters will be an unforgettable event.

Our rooms are big, simply but well furnished with good basic bathrooms, air con and fans, a fridge, hairdryer! lots of water, and a verandah with fans for relaxing. ‘

Our dinner in the main house was cooked by his lovely wife Di and served by George. Organic home cooking. A vegetarian curry with eggs and potatoes. Delicious. Followed by spiced carrot cake.

His daughter is visiting from Bangalore with her 3 month old baby girl. She’s very sweet and all the Grandmothers wanted a nurse!

George speaks very good English. He worked for 17 years in Oman – for the Sultan ! He has many good stories to tell.

We walked back down the drive to our 4 rooms overlooking the rice padi and had a quiet sleep. This time I have a room on my own and it’s rather nice to spread out.

We got up early in the cool of the morning for a trip in a large canoe down the river at our doorstep.

Our boat man is 75 and took a very leisurely pace along the cool calm river so we could observe the village life.

It’s hard to describe how beautiful and peaceful it was. The bird life is wonderful, the people bathing and washing clothes all waved in a friendly way greeting us with a “how are you” as we passed. We glided past several Catholic churches where the singing was was tuneful and mesmerising.

We saw families washing together, little groups of women in bright coloured saris walking under the shade of the trees.

We glided under bridges waving to the children playing or riding bikes.

The water is covered in places with a water weed and apparently there are river snakes though we didn’t see any.

At one point we stopped and got out to look at what they call a ‘snake boat’. It’s long and decorated and has seats 60. Twice a year at rice harvest there is a race along the river. Four boats compete and the whole village participate. Indians love a festival.

We arrived back at a George’s house for breakfast. Di had made us banana coconut pancakes with a few spices making it a delicious treat.

Then it was our washing day. Just like the village people we washed in buckets (not on stones in the river ) and hung out clothes around the garden – from trees, hammocks and a live slung under the eaves.

We chatted and sorted photos and read up on where we’ll be going next. A late but light lunch was brought to us by George. It was a vegetable curry with idly. Perfect.

Later in the afternoon after a walk it was massage time. I was first and went into the bathroom area of the main house. A lovely lady in a coloured sari was waiting for me. She was not very tall but very sturdy and strong. It was to be a Ayurveda massage with special oils.

All clothes off and into chair where my head and face were massaged first. My hair was pasted with oil and I received the most gorgeous face massage. And head!

Then onto a rather high narrow table covered in a brown coloured plastic and the bathing in Ayurveda oils started. It was heavenly.

But the end of it I felt like a baby being nurtured. It was wonderful.

Getting off the table felt like a fish sliding off a river back and

I slid into the shower room and was given a big bucket of hot water with a little bucket to dip in and tip all over myself.

I floated back to the room for a cup of herbal tea and a lie down.

Linda followed me and had the same expression on her face when she returned an hour later.

George popped by the give us the plans for our evening visit to a temple for a special festival involving elephants. How could we say no!

We planned on leaving by tuk tuk at 6.45.

He also walked us around the garden pointing out the cashew tree and explained how they are harvested and toasted. Then onto the story of this rice padi. He has about an acre which is green and lush and will be harvested in 2 weeks. He wanted to dry it out so will start draining the field tomorrow. Unfortunately for George it looks like rain tonight.

And so it was. As we set off in the tuk tuk it started bucketing down. We drove along exposed to the rain on both open sides of the tuk and after 10 mins headed back home.

Not temple or elephants tonight so an earlier dinner. Fresh caught lake fish in a tomato curry sauce. Amazing flavours. And no one has had an upset stomach.

Another quiet night awaits.

Hello Kerala

There’s nothing like a swim before breakfast in a warm climate.

Another dosa with sambal and assorted chutney along with paw paw and pineapple made a perfect breakfast before our trip to Munnar in Kerala.

It’s supposed to be a 4 hour trip but another traveller warned the road for the last part of the journey was very rough.

Our new driver inspires confidence. He’s well dressed and has good English and doesn’t seem preoccupied with his hair.

Setting off around 9 we headed west. We were surprised that this area of Tamil Nadu seemed more prosperous.

After a coffee stop where for the first time the owner hinted that a tip might be in order. So as he also supplied a cleanish squat toilet we did tip. At 200 rupees ( $A4) we were happy to leave him a tip.

Before long we were driving towards the area known as the Western Gnats.

Another stop at a mud brick works where three women were making mud bricks and keeping the kiln working. Such hard work but they were charming to us allowing photos. Our driver said they make 200 rupees a day but are housed by the Govt and their children educated.

Driving along you come across all sorts of things. Including parades with firecrackers. We’re told they are festivals!

Climbing up the Western Ghats was so interesting. The views spectacular. We hit the top and crossed over into Kerala state. Here the roads haven’t been upgraded. They are in the process of widening and repairing damage from the storms last year. It was hard going. Pot holes, dust , narrow places to pass but the views were great and the tea plantations beautiful to look at.

We stopped at a tea plantation for a tour and so found out about the process and the difference between the white tea, green and black tea ( of which there are 4 grades). The white tea has the most health benefits and was around $A24 for 600 gr.

A quick cup of tea and we were back on the bus for Munnar.

This small town is the centre for tea production and Ayurveda medicines. We stopped for a quick look then continued on to a cultural show.

These Cultural shows are often fascinating but are better if you can understand what is happening. The sound and narration wasn’t good though the costumes and make up were wonderful.

By the time we arrived at our hotel the Olive Brook Resort we were ready for a G & T and dinner. This hotel is a few km out of Munnar along a very bumpy road. It’s a little oasis in the cool hill. It’s almost English style with beautiful gardens.

Both were very welcome. As this is a cashew area some of us has the Cashew Chicken. Delicious

Our rooms were spread through a garden and for a change we had no air con. Fortunately I was with Shelley who also like fresh air and as it’s higher and cooler here we hoped for no mozzies!

We enjoyed a great sleep and woke to birds tweeting. So different to cars tooting!

Exploring Tamil Nadu

Farewell to the Bangala Hotel. We loved it. But more adventures await.

On the road in our little van we had Mr Speedy with the nice hair as our driver. He took us yesterday and we found he was very ‘hair proud’. Every time we stopped he coiffed his hair!

The drive to Madurai was once again incident free. Quieter roads and plenty to see.

Madurai is big compared to our last few stops. Big, busy, noisey and dusty.

Our hotel The Heritage is set in large gardens. And has a beautiful reception area and pool. Designed by Sri Lankan architect Geoffrey Bawa it reflects is love of the natural landscape, the frangipani the symmetry of design.

The rooms we have are large so three to a room. Always interesting sharing with others! But good fun.

We left our bags and booked a driver to take us to the Gandhi museum. It cost 1200 rupee. The equivalent of $24. So cheap for a half hour drive. He waited an hour while we looked at the Museum and brought us home. Between 6 $4!

Prices here are so cheap in comparison to other countries. We are eating very well for a small amount of money.

The Gandhi museum was very interesting and helped understand just how much the people of India endured. I do wonder what Gandhi would make of present day India. There is still so much poverty. So much divide between rich and poor.

We made our way back to the hotel in time for a facial. Oh my. It sounded great and was bit in a different kind of way. The girl was lovely but quite rough in massaging my face. I had to ask her to go softly softly. But by the end my skin felt great. It was a Ayurvedic massage. Cost – about $35

Time the. Got a quick G& T on our verandah then dinner.

The Banyan Tree restaurant is good but slightly lacks something we found at the Bangala.

The manager had reserved a special table for us to make up for our rooms not being ready. It was decorated with flower petals. Ten we got a scroll which they requested we read out. I think they got us mixed up with another group. It was a message of Bon Voyage! Wishing us a safe journey saying they were proud of us for choosing to come to India. There were at least 6 points to read out. I could barely contain myself.

We ordered a bottle of wine and the manager came over and put on such a performance. He danced with the glass as he aerated the wine. Quite spectacular! And insisted on Shelley joining him in the dance!

The rest of the dinner went without too much theatre!

Our night was quiet after that as we discussed plans for tomorrow. Yoga, swim, breakfast and then when it’s cool a visit to the Palace a rickshaw tour of the city and then the Temple for the evening puja.