A mix up with tour bookings led to the three couples going in different directions.
The Wilsons wandered locally , the McGregors did the Palace and Castle tour and Steve and I headed to two shrines
We caught the number 59 bus for lots of stops which gave us a good look at the suburbs our yo the east side of the city.
We started with Ryoanji temple. This is home to the most famous zen rock garden. It’s simple and it’s quiet and quite mesmerising.
Photo taken as a panorama shot. It’s rectangle garden.
This garden has sand which is raked meticulously. There are 15 rocks in the space.
We moved from this space into the gardens and loved the lake walk and the bamboo poles holding up the trees.
There are little corners with running water and statues of Buddha. I loved it.
We moved on to the Golden Temple. It’s probably the most famous of the temples here in Kyoto. Truely beautiful.
It very beautiful
A quick taxi ride took us to the tour we were doing if the Imperial Palace and Castle. On arrival we found that the palace and gardens were closed as the Royal family were in town.
Our guide Jasmine was young and had the biggest eyes! And long blond hair well it really was black like all the other Japanese girls we’ve seen but she had dyed it blonde!
She broke the news that as it was closed we would instead go to the art gallery in the castle grounds.
We had a good tour of the castle and Jasmine explained the history of the shogans and their relationship to the Emperor.
The painted panels were beautiful especially the peony room.
We finished the evening with a tea ceremony. A young 19 year maiko explained her world as a trainee geisha. Very strange life in this day and age.
Travelling with 6 people we decided on 2 taxis for the trip down from the hills to Odawara Station to catch a Shinkansen train to Kyoto. It’s a fast train. In fact around 264 km – one was clicked in at as it sped through the station!
Stairs in the station painted with a mountain scene.
We arrived in plenty of time and had a coffee before going to the platform and joining an orderly line to board the train. A train guard was madly waving his flag at anyone who accidentally put their foot over the yellow safety line. – even with a fence before the track.
We bought first class seats and they were very spacious and comfortable for the 2.5 Hr trip.
Arriving in Kyoto was amazing. The station is huge but so well signposted. With a little help from our friend, Chat GPT, we got directions through the station to the bus platforms and got the city bus 7 to our hotel. We’re feeling very chuffed that we’re managing our travel so well. Jill is our organiser and has her phone at the ready to give directions and we, her minions are the eyes looking for the signs. It’s working well.
The hotel is the same chain as the one we used in Tokyo but not quite as good. But after I ‘nested’ / unpacked and got organised it’s working well. It’s certainly in a good position. Not far from the famous Nishiki market and also just near the canal and river crossing to Gion.
We had a quick lunch and split up. Steve & Chris headed to the Train Museum and museum of Kyoto, ( sadly they found it closed but lived the trains) Jill and I chose to wander the laneways and end up at Nishiki Markets and the McGregors wandered across the Kamagowa river to Gion area.
Jill and I had a great explore. As well as great shops along the way , we stopped at a shrine and a temple.
Prayers and blessing written in the fans
The shops were a buzz with shoppers and trendy looking young Japanese.
The next temple had a cemetery behind it.
Buried in the Cemetery is Izumi Shikibu who was described as the great woman poet of her time and the first chief priest of this temple.
“MY life is drawing to a close, I cannot longer stay,
A pleasant memory of thee
I fain would take away;
So visit me, I pray.”
Izumi Shikibu
Then into the markets with dozens of food stalls. All ready to cook something delicious for you. Meats, seafoods of all kinds , tempura,
I had to try something, so got a fruit stick with the finest layer of toffee over it.
Strawberries and grapes A fish shaped soft pastry with custard inside. Yum!
I found an umbrella shop and bought a beautiful navy and white umbrella.
We bought socks, glass nail files, shoe laces , and tasted some great honey cordial.
No I didn’t try this …. But would like to
After changing we walked across the river looking for a roof top bar but were disappointed to find it closed. We settled on a glass of wine in a small bar and a cheap and cheerful bowl of ramen for dinner.
Loved the one called Novelty!
We walked home in light drizzle through a trendy nightclub area and spotted my first geisha.
Starting the day with a good breakfast is great. It keeps you going even though we weren’t walking much today. Today’s all about transport !
The free shuttle to Gora station had us first in line for the cable car. It headed up the hills behind the township of Gora.
Our driver was spic and span wearing white gloves and an important looking hat. It was smooth ride and delightful looking down at the trees. the autumn colours are starting to peek through.
Mt Fuji came into sight. We couldn’t believe the clear view we had when so many see it shrouded in cloud. I was a little disappointed it didn’t have a snowy peak depicted in almost every picture you see of it.
We changed to the rope way after a stop to view the quarry where sulphur mining was sending small clouds of sulphur upwards.
The ropeway took us down to Lake Ashi where we were boarding the curiously named Pirate boat. We paid $7 for first class which gave us a seat while we waited and access to the front of the boat.
Hakone is a pretty little lake side town with a few restaurants and craft shops. One in particular caught our eye.
Full of wood crafted items we all bought something. Steve bought a few bags of little wooden squares. He’s going to make a clock ! I bought the sweetest heart shaped broach.
Following lunch we caught a local bus using our Hakone free pass ( not free but at $71 gave us all the transport rides over 2 days ) Good value.
View of Mt Fuji in the background
Back to the hotel on the local bus wound us up through the densely treed forest. Even their buses are efficient, clean and quiet. They signs are polite and observed.
Our loop of attractions was covered easily as we had few queues to hold us up. So lots of time to relax at the hotel.
Another bath in our private onsen on the verandah before a pre dinner cocktail before dinner rounded out a great day.
Travel in Japan is a treat. Things work! Everyone is polite and so helpful and their systems make sense.
We were able to take our bags down to the foyer this morning and have them measured and then forward them onto Kyoto where we arrive in two days. Paid in cash by the size. how fabulous.
We were able to travel to Shinjuku station in a maxi taxi with hand luggage holding our two days of clothes and toiletries. It makes travel easy.
We were on the Romance train for a 90 minute trip to Hakone where in a good day you can view Mt Fuji. We found our way through this giant of a station because the signs were simple to follow – lots of easy English signs everywhere.
I thought with a name like Romance we might have violins play us aboard. But no! It was the usual efficient lining up and boarding in an orderly manner. And no it wasn’t pink with red love hearts ♥️ but straightforward comfortable seats.
We left on the crack if 10! And glided out of Tokyo past the neat and tidy suburbs, with no graffiti tags to be seen. Just plenty of potted plants and tidy houses.
Arriving in Hakone Yamato was different. On to a more tourist type train, crowded, so we had no seat and swung from the hanging handles for nearly 40 minutes.
Not fun! Especially with no coffee.
Then into a local bus to our hotel.
We found reception after entering through an adjacent building which had an October beer festival starting.
Or rooms weren’t quite ready. It was only 1 PM. So we headed back to the beer feast and had lunch and a beer before walking down hill to the Harkone Open Air Art Museum What a gorgeous place.
Relaxing in one of the squishy chairs.
Spread around a park like area of rolling slopes were the most amazing sculptures, a maze, separate small galleries featuring world famous sculptures, bronzes and even a gallery dedicated to the work of Picasso. He was one very busy artist with work in galleries world wide.
Pictures courtesy of Jill Wilson
A free bus saved us from walking 19 mins uphill which gave us time to get to our very comfortable rooms and be ready to go to dinner at 5. Yes very early but we decided it suits us after big days and also gives plenty of time to relax in our lovely room with a private onsen on our verandah.
It seems we are encouraged to wear the traditional pyjamas to dinner. So just the girls embraced it. It took the decision of what to wear away and we felt fabulous.
Most people wore either the pjs or the yakata.
Dinner is included in the cost at our hotel the Hakone Kowakien Tenyu. It’s a buffet- but a beautifully presented one and we were given a private room to sit and enjoy.
After dinner we thought we were heading to our room but got distracted in the foyer.
There are machines with free ice creams. Drumsticks , icey blocks as well as biscuits, lollies teas and sparkling wine. Then a jazz band started so we sat and enjoyed the music with some of our group eating ice cream ( guess who) and some having a last drink.
Then the end if the day treat. A beautiful soak in the private onsen in the open air. It was gorgeous so I stayed in for at least an hour.
Now can hardly keep my eyes open to finish this blog. Excuse mistakes.
An early start – 7am and in the train to our appointment at The Sumo wrestling. We booked a practice session starting at 8am.
Our guides Moana and Aya met us in a park nearby and explained the session to us.
It’s very formal. No talking or distracting the wrestlers. They are not the higher ranking wrestlers but are training with Master.
Some of the warm up drills
It as fascinating to watch the drills they practiced. It all happens within a small ring and each game can take just a minute! If they wrestle them out of the ring or onto the ground they win.
With the session over we had some question time and found out they have to train twice a day, do their own cooking and cleaning and the lower ranks don’t earn a lot of money! We learned some of the nuances of the sport.
Wrestlers here wear black loin clothes but strive to white – that means they are professional. They wore loin cloths in history as they couldn’t conceal weapons.
The throw salt in the ring before starting……. a ritual of respect and they stamp to scare off evil spirits. They grow their hair long to wear a top knot , can’t drive or wear normal street clothes. They eat twice a day and sleep after a meal to allow the weight to increase! Something I don’t want to do especially in this holiday!
They always finish with a prayer and then move around the circle in a line.
Play this video. I hope it works. Lower ranked samurai cook lunch for the seniors after training
We walked back through the rain towards Tokyo tower but it was shrouded by clouds so we didn’t go up. Instead, we had bad coffee and delicious pastries!
Twenty minute walk later we arrived at the Senso-ji temple. It was super crowded. Not the experience of yesterday’s peaceful shrine.
What was fascinating was the number of people dressed in kimonos. Obviously Saturday is dress up day.
Women after a visit to a hire company. Senso Ji. Awash with umbrellas
Deciding it was too crowded we made our way to the Samurai Ninja museum.
Spread over 4 floors we got to dress up, had a lesson in the history of samurai, learned to throw the shuriken – a star shaped weapon.
Every inch the samurai! Not so fierce
Samurai existed from the late 16th century until around 1867. They came from the upper classes. Woman were samurai ! They had different swords. but were quick and dangerous. It was a fascinating visit.
It was still raining so we walked through the covered lanes and side streets. Everyone was out today. Fashion is as big thing in Japan and many of the young girls were out to impress.
There were lots of food stalls. I’d like uk try a few of these food items. But another day !
We all passed out last night. After a great night sleep we were up doing our exercises and met in the reception at 9.
Off to TeamLab Borderless. There are two TeamLab Centres. We decided on this one and once again the underground got us there in great time. We ( particularly Jill) is great at google maps and can tell us how to enter the underground, which train, where to stand and most importantly how to get out of the station.
The area it’s in is like everything – spotless. There are women dressed like they are going to the office with sashes, and little white sticks for picking up rubbish. But what rubbish! The street are spotless.
The ladies who clean
We stowed our bags in lockers and entered TeamLab Borderless. What an immersive experience. A maze of rooms. Technology at its creative best. I loved getting lost, & feeling I’d lost perspective.
One of the best experiences was the tea ceremony. You pay a bit extra – the cost of a matcha tea ( or sorbet) then get ushered into a dark room with long tables seating 5 each side of a narrow galley. A lady with a cart emerged from behind a curtain and the tea ceremony began.
Tea ceremony
We were given a bowl and tea is poured and a light show begins on the top of the cup and spreads across the table. It continues until the tea has finished. Then goes black.
Finishing after an nearly two hours we stopped outside for a sweet treat
The bakeries here are exquisite.
We made our way to Toyosu Fish markets. They weren’t what I was expecting. Very modern buildings, clean as a whistle and I couldn’t even smell the fish!
But the food stalls and little restaurants offered wonderful food. We opted for a tempura style meal – though I had the seafood sashimi bowl. It was delicious!
I had to try the matcha ice cream after!
Matcha is huge here. Made from crushed up green tea leaves it has the health benefits of green tea.
Back on the train system we travelled across to the Meiji Shrine. One if the most famous shrines in Japan it is dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken. It’s set in vast gardens just near Shibuya.
The straw covered sake barrels at the entrance to the Shrine The 3 amigos.
It’s a special place. Quite spiritual and moving. Jill and I wrote prayers or blessings to be displayed and also chose a stick to give us access to a poetry drawer where a poem waited for us.
We walked back through the quiet forest gardens and made our way to the not so peaceful Shibuya Crossing. One of the most photographed traffic crossings in the world we found a great place to view it. We didn’t pay to get in. Just the cost of a drink saw us enter the viewing deck.
The calm crossing before the lights changed! Fashion statements! On the ground floor of the Magnet where we traveled to the 10th floor to see the crossing come alive.
Back to the hotel in the train we did a bit of people watching and photo swapping.
Friends Pete and Elizabeth.
The Wilson’s called it a day but the McGregors joined us for a drink and a light bite to eat. We’d had such a beautiful lunch we didn’t need much!
I can’t believe it’s only day 2!
More adventures tomorrow with an early start to see the Sumo wrestlers!
Palermo and Cefalu. We packed an overnight bag and stored our bags to travel to the beachside town of Cefalu.
It’s the seaside playground for many Italians. It has a long seaside promenade, an old town , lots of churches, heaps of restaurants views to die for, a castle on a high hill behind the town and is only 52 mins by fast train from Palermo.
I booked Stella Vi a BnB there are mostly BnBs and not many hotels. And not many lifts. I tried. I really did.
80 steps up ! Lucky we left our bags in Palermo.
Arriving for lunch we headed from the train to the seaside. We’re like seagulls. An 8 min walk. yet another caprese salad. I love this simple salad.
We plan our activities around the heat …. And the stairs.
We checked in and Rosalia welcomed us. The room is beautifully done – all shiny tiles and Italian features. And 80 steps up!
After a siesta we headed to the hugely crowded beach.
Italians on holiday. At the public beach it was wall to wall umbrellas, almost nowhere to leave our clothes. We didn’t take phones, bags etc – beware of thieves!
The umbrellas!
There was sand! And a few little waves. But Italians don’t catch waves. But they do embrace the beach play. There were water sports. Shuttle cock & waterpolo balls everywhere. People standing in the shallows chatting.
Once again I was totally over dressed in my 1 piece swimming costume ! Everyone is in a bikini. The bottomless ones for all shapes and sizes. And 1 elderly granny in a 1 piece. And me.
Steve stunned them by going out the back and swimming!
We didn’t stay too long. It was very hot out of the water and we had to prepare for our evening passeggiata. And dinner on a seaside deck.
Dressing ready to slow walk through the old town it was such a scene. Everyone who wasn’t still on the beach were walking. Slowly. Looking tanned or burnt.
The cathedral had evening Mass on so we sat and observed. And fanned. Those fans aren’t just for show. Everyone uses them.
The shops were doing a great trade. Late shopping suits beach holiday makers.
The nut man
We stopped for an apertivo. A light drink and snack is meant o stimulate the appetite! And it’s a great chance to observe the holiday makers.
At 8pm we headed to Liska. We had a beautiful table on the deck by the water. We sat and enjoyed mussels and Grillo my new favourite Italian white wine and recounted our holiday.
Great window shopping
Steve did a huge walk – climb up the big hill or rock behind the town. it was very hot and took him nearly 2 hours to go up and back. He got some great photos.
Favourite experiences; for me Choir Blast with friend Ros and swimming 6km ( can I have two ?)
Favourite hotel : apart from our friends Bill and Marie France’ beautiful flat and niece Bertie’s BnB probably Favingnana. A week in one spot that had all we needed was great.
Best English experience: picnic and Opera at Glyndebourne.
Best meal : Rick Steins Seafood Padstow. And Pizza party at Bertie’s …. And Marie France’ great cooking and hospitality.
Best bed ; Bertie’s! Comfy and beautiful fresh air!
Best Hotel overall : maybe Palermo.
So many ‘bests’ it’s hard to narrow it down. My accomodation skills didn’t let me down.
Choir seems ages ago. But it was so memorable- sharing with our friends Ros and David. Bonding with the choir friends.
Swim trek with Francesco and meeting Guila. Shared swimming with the Americans and the Aussies. Glorious swims. Fantastic sunsets.
Our last night was in a BnB 10 minutes from Palermo airport. We herded somewhere close. It was perfect. Big grounds with a swimming pool and every detail covered. A walk to a pizza restaurant with views.
The lovely home for our last night
And so the sunsets on our holiday are over.
Except for the 10 hr layover in Singapore. I booked a hotel by the hour. It was great and decided that’s all we wanted. Air con, wifi, bed shower restaurant. We got it.
And as we take off in Singapore one row from a choir buddy , her family and her mum who I met on tour I think how lucky I am. Family here we come.
A short walk up Via Maquardo to Teatro Massimo to meet Hermes – our guide.
Hermes our No Mafia guide
Hermes pointed out if we wanted to find out about art, churches and galleries then we were on the wrong tour.
He was here to walk us through the history of the Mafia.
He explained the reason he has made it a lifetime crusade. When he was 6, he remembers hearing the sounds of a huge bomb exploding on the motorway near his house. It was the bomb that killed the anti mafia judge Falcone and his wife.
It was after this happened that people began to object and say NO. Businesses targeted to pay Pizzo started to say no more payments will be made. It has grown. Shops show a sign to show they are not paying’pizzo’ or ‘protection ‘ money to the mafia.
Addiopizzo – saying NO payment.
Hermes led us to various sights and we sat – in the shade thankfully and listened to how the mafia operated with shops. the police, the church, politicians and how it has changed over the years. But still they exist.
A wall with pictures of those killed by the mafia.
We walked through the markets towards the courts.
The Courts with the wings sculpture.
We finished outside the fountain of shame. Called this because it has many nude statues. And either side of the fountain is a church and a convent. It was considered shameful for the nuns to have to look at the nude statues !
A visit to the nuns bakery for the best cannoli in town. They were huge. And I forgot to get a picture.
It was noon and hot so back to our hotel across the road for a cool down
At 2pm we hit the streets again. To visit the Royal Palace and the Palatine Chapel – another Roger 1 build when he conquered Sicily in 1130 something !
The Palace is used for Parliament sittings except when open to the public.
The courtyard of the Palace
As usual lots of stairs to climb. but definitely worth it for the Chapel. It’s stunning with its mosaics
Particularly like the mosaic of Leo
I discovered Elliot Erwitt. A photographer his exhibition was in the palace and is stunning.
Back down the Via to the cathedral which is very grand. Inside was a buzz of noise. All the locals were gathering ! Something was happening. The Franciscan friars were all strolling in looking hot.
Locals were greeting them and showering them with double kisses and holding little portable fans to their hot sweaty faces. Everyone else was fanning away. It was fascinating to watch.
Admiring the huge doors.
Back to our room to freshen up. We were having mother Marion and her daughters Grace and Celia meet us on our terrace for drinks.
They were on the swim trek and we saw them here yesterday and arranged a drink.
The day still wasn’t over !
After drinks and grazing plates Steve and I left for Teatro Massimo. We wanted to see their opera theatre and found a concert. Opera favourites. Starting at 9pm it was late for us!
Entering the stalls of the Teatro Massimo It’s a stunning theatreThe baritone and soprano were young and great.
We walked home at around 10.30 exhausted. And the city was coming alive!
Travel is so easy these days with phones holding tickets, maps, advice, hotel bookings. Everything you need is saved online.
We had a eSIM in England but here we’ve managed with Wifi with the odd day on Telstra.
The bus into Palermo was about 2, hours from the ferry at Trapani. It was a very hot day so the good air con was welcome.
The bus stopped at Via Vittorio Emanuel and 5 minutes walk we were in our hotel.
I was very pleased with this one. A lift! is a win , a big cool room and bathroom. 4th floor and the loveliest young woman on reception.
Steps outside the hotel is …… everything. We are just a few steps to the corner Quattro Canti at the end of via Maqueda which is the restaurant, cafe bar street and leads everywhere.
One of the corners at Quattro Canti
Leaving out bags we headed out for a slow walk. It was hot but walking on the shade side was good. A nice breeze came up from the port and we wandered past Palazzos which in their day must have been amazing.
Now they are home to multiple apartments and BnB’s though it easy to see how grand they would be.
An indoor bar Street stalls always colourful
Three hours walking led us to an afternoon in the cool before heading to our roof to for an evening Aperol before our passaggiatti
View from our terrace
The roof top bar is like an oasis above the noise of the street below. In need of a secondi – a plate of something other than antipasto we headed out into the street walking past the buskers, the street food vendors , the aperol mobile carts, the few rough sleepers, teenage groups of Ragazzi , people sucking on vapes, groups drinking vino outside restaurants waiting to get in
Cannoli bars One of my favourite shops. Limoncello Street markets abound
Palermo is a surprisingly lovely city. It has its edge. It’s busy, but quite clean. Magnificent buildings
We’ll find out more about its ‘ underbelly ‘ tomorrow on the No Mafia tour
Guila smearing me with Vasalino for the last time…..to prevent swimmers rash!
Oh I’m so behind in my blogs. I’ve been in Palermo for 2 days and I’m still back in Favingnana ! Well the blog is.
The last day swimming was once again without our dear Francesco.
He would hate being sick and missing out.
The last swims were different and perfect.
The swimmers have relaxed and all chatting more.
In the evening we’re having a farewell dinner at Eduardo’s brother’s restaurant. It’s all about family here in Italy.
Eduardo has been lots of fun. He has told us all about his girlfriends but now declares his true love is Guila. It’s become a funny ongoing joke.
Francesco has asked us all to send him a few words about swimming and the sea. Something that shows our feelings for it. he has a game for us.
Everyone dressed up a but – island style for the last dinner together. We shared taxis and drove along the island to Giuseppe’s restaurant. It’s a big area. All outdoor tables facing the bay and the setting sun. A beautiful simple setting.
The fun begins with Aperols and continues with more Aperol or a Grillo ( a lovely light white wine)
The food is shared grazing plates and is simple but beautiful.
Photos are taken memories made.
With Francesco
We’ve known Francesco for 11 years so are so pleased he’s made the dinner so we can say farewell. This could be our last swim trek.
After dinner Francesco and Guila say a few words of farewell and start to give out the certificates. But on the back there is a quote written by one of the group. We have to guess who wrote it.
Reading the quotes!
I read one out. It was a Haiku and I guessed Colleen. Later in the evening it was Colleen’s turn ( Dora the explorer) she read out the words. It was a Haiku! Mine. She guessed straight away. So funny we hit each others. Steve and her husband also got each others. They were both the shortest quotes.
Mine said
Swimming in the sea Blue water beautiful fish Gives me calm and peace
frans travel tales 