Cocos Keeling Island – History

Many people (including myself ) know about Cocos Islands. I have now read a lot about it and its history.

The islands were on the ancient trade route between India, Burma, and Southeast Asia and were regularly visited by ships. In the 16th century, Portuguese sailors named the islands after the Portuguese word for coconut, coco

The islands were then discovered in 1609 by the British sea captain William Keeling but no settlement occurred until the early 19th century. One of the first settlers was John Clunies-Ross, a Scottish merchant; much of the island’s current population is descended from the Malay workers he brought in to work his copra plantation. The Clunies-Ross family ruled the islands as a private fiefdom for almost 150 years, with the head of the family usually recognised as resident magistrate. The British annexed the islands in 1857, and for the next century they were administered from either Ceylon or Singapore. The territory was transferred to Australia in 1955, although until 1979 virtually all of the territory’s real estate still belonged to the Clunies-Ross family.

Charles Darwin spent 12 days at the Cocos (keeling) Islands in the Indian Ocean during the Voyage of HMS Beagle in 1836. He explored many parts of the archipelago, and collected a large number of geological, plant and animal specimens.

The Two World Wars saw the islands become targets due to their strategic position in the Indian Ocean. 

From 1944 to 1946 the tranquil islands came under military administration and buzzed with activity, home to thousands of military personnel.

The people of the Cocos Keeling Islands voted to become part of Australia in 1984. 

The islands are now an internationally significant habitat for wildlife, and a remote tropical paradise for tourists seeking adventure, culture and space to breathe

The island is home to some rare bird including the red foot booby bird. I remember when we were in Galapagos we saw the blue footed booby bird.

The red footed booby bird

Cocos is also home to the red crab. There are hundreds of them. Little ones to quite big ones who crossed the sandy road in front of us when we went cycling out to the yacht club yesterday.

The sunsets are also very special. Though we have had a lot of cloud cover tonights was rather lovely.

Tour da Cocos

A lazy start to the day sitting on the verandah but not at all concerned that the weather looks a little cloudy. The breeze keeps the bugs and the rain away. Think positive.

The boys set off to organise e-bikes for us to discover the island. I haven’t ridden a bike for a few years but ‘they’ say you don’t forget.

Well, I’ve never ridden an e -bike. And yes, they help you move along at a cracking pace. But these bikes were soooo heavy, and very hard to manoeuvre. But we did it. All day ! We covered this little slice of paradise from north to south. Lots of kilometres.

First stop the cooperative supermarket. We were told to bring most of our food as the supermarket and restaurants are light on products and are only open certain days.

Our bags were crammed with cheese & crackers , jatz, fruit, cereal, wraps bagels ham etc etc. Frozen milk kept it all cold route. Lucky we did, as the supermarket had very empty shelves. Lots of deodorant? They definitely need it in the heat, but do the locals and visitors buy it at very inflated prices?

We visited the Big Barge. A unique barge repurposed into an Art Gallery and cafe. It’s by the water and a delightful spot for a coffee and sweet treat.

The barge built by the Clunies-Ross family on Home island and finally brought to West Island retired and opened as a gallery.
The history of the barge
I had to have a little swing.
With friends Jo and Martyn

Back on the bikes and along to Trannies Beach – which we renamed Frannies Beach!

A beautiful swim in crystal clear water with colourful fish and tons of busy crabs going about their business.

Martyn leaping out of the water.

A quick dry off and back in the bikes to next stop the jetty where the ferry leaves for Home island and Direction Island ( voted the most beautiful beach in Australia) – and we’re going tomorrow.

The boys looking at the lagoon across to Home island.

Thursday, the boys will be swimming across the lagoon. Partly for a challenge but mostly to raise funds for breast cancer. Jo has made a good recovery from breast cancer and Martyn wants to continue to raise awareness and much needed funds. I will include a link if you’d like to donate a $ towards it.

The weather isn’t great but it’s not boiling hot! That’s a positive.

We cycled back to Waves our house here and enjoyed lunch on the deck before setting off to the other end of the island to the Yacht Club.

Beautiful beaches.

The photo doesn’t show the colours!
Attractive reef shoes for these beautiful beaches.

The Yacht Club was a disappointment! Not an icy drink in sight. But pristine beaches.

Back to Waves for a well deserved shower and Gin & Tonic on the verandah.

Tonight we’re going to the Cocos club. There’s not much alcohol on these islands but there is at the Cocos club. But dinner! They don’t do food. The restaurant that’s open tonight is only for a school function!!! But they supply a bbq pack which we’ll cook at home on our verandah. Not a disappointment.

Apparently there are a few little sharks.

Cocos Keeling Islands here we come.

‘No overseas trip for us I said.’ After our epic 9 week trip last year we needed to holiday closer to Australia.

2024 has seen us go to Adelaide twice. Once for the wonderful Adelaide Festivals ( and yes my choir Soul Song sang ),. Back to Adelaide in June for our nephew Luke’s 50th and his brother Kenrick’s 40th.

A visit to Sydney for my niece Pips 40th was fun with a beautiful High Tea at the Intercontinental Hotel.

A road trip to Tamworth for Steve’s birthday, staying at Goonoo Goonoo a cattle property set up for guests. It’s really beautiful with a top class restaurant called Glasshouse perched on a hill overlooking the green pastures.

Then a visit to the Tamworth Regional Art Gallery for a quilt exhibition and lecture by Jenny Bowker AM. Jenny travelled with her husband Bob to many middle eastern countries when he was an ambassador. She made the most of her time there by connecting with local craftspeople and has told the story of her adventures in her quilts. Quite extraordinary.

Our early November trip to French New Caledonia was cancelled due to the continued civil unrest in the country. hopefully we’ll get there at another time. Steve’s Grandmother grew up there so he’d love to discover the world she lived in there.

Our final trip is to the Cocos Keeling Islands. Sitting in the Indian Ocean off the coast of Western Australia it is close to Malaysia so many of the Cocos Malay inhabitants are Islamic.

We are on West Island for a few nights. Then Home Island.

There are around 600 people with many on West Island where the airport is located and then Home Island has many of the Cocos Malay people and the very old Oceania House.

After a very long travel day due to island winds delaying our plane we finally arrived around 8.30. There are only 2 flights a week from Perth and last week the plane got to Christmas Island then had to turn back.

An unscheduled stop at Learmouth for fuel ( in case we couldn’t stop at Christmas Island ). We managed to land at Christmas and dropped off passengers and picked up others doing the round trip back to Perth.

Our house is great. We walked from the airport as our host took the bags in her car. It’s opposite the water and has 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms for ourselves and friends Jo and Martyn.

Outside our house.

Tomorrow adventures await.

Mad Hatters in Goondiwindi.

The big day arrived. Our costumes were ready. we were ready.

To fill in the day we spent time at the Harrisons doing odd jobs. Well some did and most of us stayed out of the way.

We had an hours trip to get to Boomi so had to be dressed ready to go by 4.30. And it was hot.

Peter picked us up at our motel in a bus belonging to the local aged care home. What a sight we made.

A quick photo shoot and into the bus with a few bottles of champagne for the journey.

What a crew.

An hour later we poured out of the bus and noticed no one else was dressed up. There were a few simple hats but no one else came as the mad hatter, the rabbit, the scarecrow the witch, the wizard, queen of hearts or jester.

Just us.

And Boomi won’t forget us.

We enjoyed drinks on the lawn and lots of admiring comments before heading in to the old hall set with long tables.

We decorated ours. Candelabras, ice buckets, oversized cup and saucers for our tea party!

The show was fun and the enthusiasm from the local cast was fantastic. So much work goes into this production- an original musical staged every second year. Funds raised goes directly back into the community.

The local talent is great.

I loved the local policeman who only on Thursday night was chasing a criminal through town only to smash into a fence and injure his foot. He was the King and made it through the show smiling and hopping but slipped in a reference to taking a pain killer !

The King

Food was plentiful, supplied by local Gundy caterer Sandy Henderson who happens to be our friend’s daughter’s mother in law. Lauren was there working in the kitchen.

We were awarded joint best dressed. Which wasn’t hard as we were the only ones dressed up.

I love these country communities. Even we recognised people from Gundi like the lady from the cotton shop.

After a standing ovation we climbed back onto the bus with Peter driving the hour back to Gundi. We were all so impressed with the Boomi community. They pulled off a great night. It was worth the drive from the city.

The next morning we gathered at the Harrisons house for Helen’s country scrambled eggs before heading home laden fruit cake thanks to Anne, rocky road courtesy of Pam.

Thanks Peter & Carmel for a great few days.

Goondiwindi a Country favourite

We’re back in the border town Goondiwindi or Gundy as it’s know. Famous for the horse Gunsynd , for its cotton farms and friendly country welcome its been suffering bad press due to its outbreak of car thefts.

Pulling into The Border Motel we knew we would be safe at night when we spotted the black security gates and the police car in the car park.

We’re here to join our group of travellers for the infamous Boomi amateur thespian society’s musical. This years theme had us raiding dress up boxes and second hand shops. And for one of our group a trip to Bunnings!

All shall be revealed tomorrow!

We rolled into Gundy in convoy on Thursday and rendezvoused at the Harrisons house before heading to the Railway Hotel for a country steak dinner.

Friday we headed off with guide Mike in a small bus for a tour to a cotton farm. The farm is one of the bigger ones in the area “Alcheringa” owned by the family who also own the Goondiwindi cotton shop in town. This business is well known in the fashion industry for its good quality cotton clothing.

Mike gave the best tour explaining the planting, growing, harvesting and production of cotton. It’s a great story especially hearing how it’s being managed now to save water.

We collected our cotton samples including handfuls of seed to plant our own cotton plant at home. Possibly not enough for a tshirt!

We headed back to town to the Customs House museum for coffee and damper – it’s a type of scone served with golden syrup. And it’s delicious.

Then a visit to the cotton shop for a few purchases.

A quiet afternoon wandering the town enjoying the bright street art.

Street art

Then a relaxed dinner at the Harrison’s house where we all lent a hand in the kitchen.

The front verandah was the perfect place to chat and show and tell about our costumes for tomorrow’s mad hatters dress up for Boomi.

Wait for tomorrow’s post.

Definitely on Fiji Time

Our Swim Week is over but we allowed an extra day for downtime.

It was a slow start after parting last night. Though we were all in the pool by 8.15. A special session for all the swimmers.

Lots of giggles. the energy in this group is infectious. We bounced and sang along and waved arms in the air.

Even the pool attendants got into it.

Quick showers then it was off to the champagne breakfast. Though I couldn’t face champagne. Definitely too much last night.

Groups were saying farewelling, hugging and swapping contact details. It’s wonderful how after 5 days of a shared holiday mostly in swimmers leads to friendships that last! A common goal like swimming unites.

We spent the rest of the day lounging, reading, walking and not eating. Definitely too many meals this week.

I walked and called in to see the kids club. No wonder so many parents love coming to Fiji. The locals are so beautiful to the little ones. You often see a restaurant attendant walking around holding a baby so the parents can eat in peace.

The kids club also offer hair braiding, colouring, and face painting. All the little ones have braided hair with beads dangling!

The day went quickly and by 6pm e headed to the Waitui Club for a farewell dinner and to celebrate Chris’ birthday.

It was a beautiful evening and our table for 7 was perfectly placed on the veranda.

I told our lovely waitress Kata it was Chris’ birthday -so at dessert time she and about 8 staff all gathered singing a special three verse version of happy birthday ending with cheers and blessings.

She then took a photo and put herself in it!

Our evening finished with farewell hugs for our NZ friends David, Kim and Avy.

It’s been a wonderful week and as if they knew it was out last night , when we got back to our room, fireworks started on the beach in front.

Farewell Fiji , you’ve been great

Malamala Island a slice of paradise.

Our last swim day.

Blue skies, happy people , connections being made and no bananas left for breakfast.

Onto the boat by 9 and by the time we arrived 30 mins later it was windy and overcast.

Walked down the pier with Mesu who looked after me all day. Called me Miss Fran!

Islands always have a windy side. And thankfully a calm side. The swim had to be changed. Not around the island this time. A course with markers on the calm side. 1 lap for the 1km swim and 3 laps for the 3km.

Lots of place to sit

But we chose…….

By the side of the infinity pool.
Cocktail in hand.

The first race was quickly under way. A woman won it – just beating the 11year old son of Ky Hurst. It was so lovely to see them hug after the race.

Then the racers came in thick and fast.

They got the 3km race off quickly as the wind was getting stronger.

In they go. Not too rocky today.

We went to our great place got in the pool and watched them swimming by 6 times – a loop done 3 times.

See the swimmers behind us!

Ky Hurst won in 32 mins. He was cruising. A lovely man named Dean Duckworth has been runner up to Ky in all three races.

Steve made it back.

David & Kim our NZ friends did well. Especially Kim. And new friend Avy was just amazing!

Avy came in 12th. Beating some much younger people.

My favourite group are the pink ladies. For lovely friends from Northbridge Sydney.

Fun ladies in matching pink.

Medals were given to all and the prize giving will be tonight.

Then it was lunch time. Aset under the trees the choices had everyone piling their plates high. Lots of choices, places to sit and a great bar. Steve had two beers and fell asleep!

People sat, drank – mostly cocktails, recovered, snorkelled, walked around the little island, chatted until 3o’clock when we were herded back on the boat.

But not before the famous jetty jump. The game party people set off. This included Jill. They took the long walk out along the windy jetty. It was about a 3 metre jump. Jill just couldn’t do it. And I don’t blame her. The pink costume ladies did it and claimed they had the best sinus wash!!!

The pink costume ladies ready to jump!

Back on the boat everyone was just a little quiet. A bit weary I guess.

A short break back at the hotel before the Celebration dinner.

Everyone was told to dress to impress. Most dressed right up.

And the dancers certainly dressed up.

The awards were given. On our table of friends we had a first place winner in the over 70’s. Avy was also about 10 overall!

Kim was 3rd in the over 60’s. We cheered our talented friends along with all the other winners

Avy on the left Kim on the right.

Then the dancing started.

Oh what a night.

Deanne, me, Jill and Avy.

Off to bed because we have aqua aerobics at 8.15!

It’s been a great swim week. We’re staying on another night. A lot are leaving for home tomorrow and some are going to another island for a few days.

If you like swimming then Swim Week Fiji is a great week. Very different to wonderful swim treks we have done. they have 15 swimmers. These have 200 and as they say 5 days , 3 swims and 0 worries.

I’m on Fiji Time

Bula. This friendly greeting is said by everyone you pass in this land of smiles.

It’s a traditional greeting. A hello. Or Hi. It’s easy to say and so lovely. The breakfast staff are full of greetings and smiles. How can you not start the day well when you are so well looked after. Nothing is too much trouble.

Today’s swim is here at the Sofitel. Right out the front. So a light breakfast. Did I mention how yum the local peanut butter is!!!! I had a little on toast before we headed to the beach front. The flags were up. The swimmers were all greeting each other like lifetime friends – which they probably will be by the end of this week.

The end of swim flags with our grass skirt class warriors.

Scott Rice , the organiser gives a clear briefing for the first swim. The 1 km. Conditions are much better, so optimism is high amongst the swimmers.

People are all rubbing cream onto each other. The anti lice cream is getting a big following. Quite a few got eaten by the lice yesterday and we know there are lice here. So much rubbing is going on. Armpits, under swimmers- no one is shy here!

The first race is off- a deep water start.

Jill and I waited, then leisurely entered the water for our private race for two. Water temperature is beautiful.

We swam around the area next to the course until we saw the first swimmers returning. The pool swimmers were favoured today in the flat conditions. But Ky Hurst’s young son once again came second.

I spoke to him after and he is such s a lovely kid.

As they finished people had jubilation written all over their faces.

Then the 3km briefing.

The briefing with Kim & Steve centre photo.

Into the water and away to the sound of the conch shell.

The young Fijians filled in time teaching a little one how to blow the conch shell.

And practised doing the Floss dance. To the cheers of the crowd.

The US guy was able to pull his passenger along.

Tobin about to set off.

He set of last but unfortunately as he overtook people ( he’s such a strong swimmer) the kayak hit a few swimmers. They weren’t happy so she had to be towed back by a jet ski.

Once again Ky Hurst cruised home for a win.

Our friends from NZ, Avy and Kim came in not far behind the leaders in under an hour.

Avy
Kim

David and Steve swam well and came in just over the hour I was in a good spot for cheering on the swimmers. They are all shapes and sizes. And the variety of swimwear is amazing.

Steve running towards the finish.

We had lunch by the water outside the Waitui Club. It’s an adults only section of the hotel.

Jill, Avy and I walked after lunch. Just down to the Marina about 2 km away. Bought a few tshirts for the kids and a jar of the local peanut butter.

Back to the infinity pool a sit on the deck chairs, a book and a cocktail completed the afternoon.

The evening drink session and days wrap was again a success. The 5 minute highlights movie is terrific. Lots of claps and cheering as some very happy people ran, jogged, danced and in one case fell over the finish line.

We sat with some new friends and had a pizza before heading to our room.

First Swim around tiny South Sea Island

Our day started early. We received a wake up call at 6.30 – but not for us. For someone flying out ! We were already up and preparing for a day on South Sea Island.

The breakfast room was buzzing. Swimmers were all keeping the food stations busy. A big demand for bananas emptied the bowl quickly!

We sensibly had eggs to keep us going. And toast with the famous local peanut butter.

Getting in the bus the photographer called ‘Got your swimmers?’ One lady obviously didn’t hear that. On the island there was another call ‘anyone got some size 14 ladies swimmers’ poor lady.

We got the bus to the marina and once all 200 were on board we set off. The weather was cloudy. The wind a little brisk. We met some new people onboard. That’s the special thing about swimming holidays. The people are usually very friendly and down to earth. It’s a bit hard to be a pain or posh in your swimmers with a cap and goggles on.

Thirty minutes later we were in a smaller boat being shipped to shore. It’s the cutest little island. Usually home to back packers – they had been moved off for the day to visit other islands to allow us to have the whole island.

Conditions were not as good as we hoped but Jill and I decided we would try the swim around the island. About 1km.

We watched the big group go off then started behind them.

Along came Deanne a new friend from Brisbane. She had started with the race goers then decided – it’s too tough. She got out then saw us going in so joined us. But … ……..

Mistake 1. It was very shelly, coral bedding leading into the water and we didn’t have our reef shoes on so Ouch!

Mistake 2 We didn’t swim out far enough and before long came to a rocky shelf with small waves pushing us. I got snagged on a rock then immediately got worried about my new knee. So much rough rock and coral. I couldn’t get a cut on the new knee. The infection would be a disaster. So there I am I’m trying back off the rocks.

My swimmers got a small hole in the front. Better my swimmers than my skin.

We swam about 3/4 of the island before deciding to swim in. Alas, more coral and I couldn’t stand up. One of the beautiful Fijian helpers came to my rescue and hauled me to my feet.

Feeling relieved I’d made it back I asked myself. What were you thinking! I have no antibiotics and a coral cut gets infected very quickly. From now on sensible me.

Chris swam almost to the end but got out early as did lots of swimmers.

Next race – the 3km. They cut it back to 2km Steve, David, Kim and new friend Avy lined up all smiles.

It was tough out there but Steve did his best and Avy, a pocket rocket came in 13th overall and Kim not far behind ! Beating Steve and David!

It was a mighty effort from them all.

Ky Hurst ( former lifesaving champion and Olympian ) is the guest swimmer and won the race by a long way! He had also swum earlier with his 11yr old son in the 1 k race. His son came 2nd. And he’s only 11. A champion in the making.

Swimming over it was relaxing time with a bbq lunch and an open bar.

Then it was time for the traditional welcome.

The afternoon drifted on until it was time to return on the boat.

Back on the small boat. Out to the large boat and back to the hotel. Some very tired people on board.

Showers in the hotel were very welcome. A little rest then off to the drinks party.

They had the swim results up.

Steve did well. Avy came first in the over 70’s and 13th overall. What a champ! Kim came 5th in her age group. Steve 6th and David 7th.in the over 70’s

The party included a video of the days activities. Lots of fun recalling the day.

Scott Rice the organiser.
The colourful Coolangatta girls!

The evening finished with pizza on the verandah and a wee drink.

Another day and another swim tomorrow. This time it’s outside it resort.

But it’s meant to be Sunny in Fiji.

We woke this morning to grey cloudy skies – but by mid morning it was warm and sunny. Perfect.

Breakfast was in a large airy garden room with lots of food stations scattered around. Everything from tropical fruits – where the bananas look green but are beautifully ripe inside to delicious locally made peanut butter for the many varieties of toast. Smoothies, pancakes, crafted omelettes, chocolate crackles, Asian food , vegetables. You name it was there.

I ordered coffee at the drinks station. And asked for lactose free milk. The young Fijian said they didn’t have any but offered almond. When he delivered it to me he brought a half carton of lactose free milk to put in my fridge. He said he was lactose free and had some in his room. So very kind. A little reward coming his way !

As we finished we heard the sounds of singers warming up. A small choir of a cappella voices. The men and women were so into it – smiling and singing. They sing farewell to guests leaving. Or for birthdays. It’s a song saying thank you for choosing Sofitel!

After checking out the activities board we decided it was an aqua class for us.

A bit different to my usual class at Centenary pool it was still lots of fun and a way to stay cool. Jill and I followed up with a swim in the sea.

Jill, Kim and me – in the blue hat.

Tomorrow the choices are …..

If you haven’t been to Fiji, it’s a beautiful laid back place. The locals are sweet and kind and love children. And they love a chat. I’m writing this sitting on a deck chair beside the pool. No less than 4 different staff have approached me to ask if they can get me anything! But mostly to chat.

Nearby local ladies are braiding hair and giving neck and shoulder massages.

Around me are families with assorted children – most with braided beaded hair, couples enjoying some quiet time. Families over various generations. In fact Fiji is perfect for grandparents to bring their children and grandchild. There’s something for everyone.

After Aerobics we took the short 15 min walk to the Marina. Lots of boats leave from here for the islands. I expected market type stalls but there is a little shopping and eating precinct. So we had some lunch before walking through lush gardens back to the hotel.

Crossing the bridge back to the hotel
The little bus we could have used to get to the marina.
David, Chris and Steve

I went to the little trading post this morning. We have a complimentary bar in our room with about 10 cans of assorted drinks, chocolate and chips. You can use as much as you like and it’s replaced each day OR you can trade it a little store. 6 cans is equal to one bottle of wine or bubbles or 2 local beers equals one imported beer. It’s quite a unique set up. I traded the coke, sprite lemonade and kombucha for a bottle of wine! So there’s the 5 pm drinks all ready.

Tonight we have our welcome party for the 200 swimmers.

The organisers are a NZ couple who have run this event for a few years. It’s great.

We arrived and got our swim bag of goodies. A locally made swim bag with local products. Creams, lip balm, ear drops, water bottle, and a lanyard for all the events.

We arrived to a big Bula welcome.

Me surrounded by the Fijian welcome group!

Our group of six expanded to 8. We welcomed Avy, a Chicago born lawyer who married an English man whom she met at master swim event back in 1988 in Brisbane and now lives in NZ. Then there was Tobin. A Texan cattle man who happens to swim and who helps people who need a hand. He started Crosswater Journey aimed at helping families and individuals who have been impacted by suicide. They are helped by professionals and eventually Tobin does a symbolic journey – he swims and tows a small boat with someone who needs a hand.

He was such an interesting fun man.

The evening was perfect. Under the stars and trees, a slight breeze , lovely music with a singer guitar player , meeting likeminded swimmers from about 6 nations ( mostly Australians ).

It finished early. there’s a swim tomorrow.

So now to sleep.