Visiting Arashiyama and the Iconic Bamboo Grove

October 18, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 1 Comment

Today was time to send our luggage to Miyajima. We have one more night here in Kyoto so just need an overnight bag for our trip to Hiroshima and Miyajima where we’re staying.

With luggage stored we headed out to Arashiyama at 8 am to beat the crowds. We caught a JR train and changed onto a tram like train for the final 4 stops. It took about 40 mins.

The station has great shops and services but we headed straight out to start the walk. We were there before 9 am so even though the main walk was open it was obvious that some paths were still closed while workmen were cleaning and putting finishing touches to decorations – all made from bamboo. It seems there’s a festival tomorrow which will be lovely especially in the evening. There will be lights all along the path.

Taking a side path we arrived at the Sogenchi garden – very much a zen garden designed by a monk, it has a pond, rock garden , trees planted to provide asymmetry and it is subtle but natural. I loved it. The Tenryuji temple was quite a let down compared to the garden.

We enjoyed a great coffee from a van in the Main Street before catching a bus up the hill to the Adashino Nembutsuji, a temple formed as a burial site.

We walked up more steps through the bamboo …..

We almost had this area to ourselves.

Riding the bus up was a great idea in the rain so we wandered down through the preserved streets.

Torimoto has a wonderfully quiet atmosphere. We found a small cafe run by two little stooped women. Freshly made sandwiches in an old world cafe. Perfect.

Okochi Sanso is a villa with gardens so well laid out that you could wander and not be aware of others following another path. Owned by an actor Okochi Denjiro (1898-1962), this property is now open to the public. It’s just beautiful.

Our time was running out so we headed to the river – no time for the famed river walk.

We got another Romance train ‘ this one not quite as luxurious as the one yesterday! but fun!

Beautiful views of the river from the train

Back in Kyoto I decided to walk in the Gion area. I wanted to see the bridge that featured in the movie Memoirs of a Geisha.

The area didn’t disappoint.

I wandered the streets until my feet objected!

22,000 steps today.

We had a great dinner out before calling it a night. We’re leaving Kyoto tomorrow. It’s been great

Time now for a quieter time in Miyajima Island. And harrowing Hiroshima.

Day Trip to Nara

October 18, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 1 Comment

A day trip to Nara is a good idea. Saves packing and moving. The train system is so good it’s easy to do.

Leaving from Kyoto main station at 10 we were in Nara in warm conditions by 10.50.

I found a great day trip guide to Nara which proved to be just what we needed.

https://thenavigatio.com/nara-itinerary-one-day-trip/

It included a coffee stop at the start of the loop. It was a great suggestion for a nice coffee and we all added a croissant- to help with the walking.

We headed up the Main Street and it wasn’t long before we saw the roaming deer. They really wanted to be fed the water thin crackers. They pursue you hoping to get a cracker. And they have learned to bow to in a very Japanese way.

We detoured to the Yoshikien gardens. They were free to enter and though small were perfect. So tranquil and beautiful.

We left by the back gate which got us to the Todai ji Temple. It’s one of the more famous temples and was impressive because it was entirely constructed with wood using no nails. It also has a 500 ton bronze Buddha sitting inside. It was hard to work out if he was made there or made and moved to his home in the temple. Either way it is impressive.

We saw the tree with the hollow which children were scrambling through. Legend has it that if you can squeeze through it you will be granted enlightenment in the next life. The children’s teacher nearly didn’t make it!

We continued on around the park passing many deers. Its mating season and the cries from the big males was pathetic !

We walked the long tree and deer lined path to Kasugataisha shrine. Walking towards it we passed hundred of small shrines placed by families for their deceased relatives.

There are 2,000 of these lining the paths.

Time was moving on and we had tickets on the Romance train back to Kyoto. We arrived and found our beautiful green seats which were so comfortable after a long day of walking in the heat!

Now was the time to tackle the ticket purchases for the remaining journeys on this trip.

Steve and Elizabeth spent at least 30 minutes with a young girl who looked like she was still at school. But she was all over the complicated ticket arrangements. The McGregors are going on a different place for a few days cycling after Hiroshima and we are going to Naoshima , the Art Island. Then we meet up to go to Hida.

After a freshen up we headed out to an Asian fusion restaurant which had the most delicious , spring roles and beef! yum. Pity the wine wasn’t good!

What a great day.

Fushimi Inari (but let’s talk Toilets)

October 17, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / Leave a comment

Started the day quite early with a train to the very well known orange gates of Fushimi inari We tried to the beat the crowds and probably did but it was still busy.

It’s interesting to observe the rituals before a visit. There were many school students all very quiet and respectful. They all washed their hands before climbing the stairs to the temple.

There are a series of small temples and lots of stairs. I’m pleased we’re not here in warmer months.

Like everywhere it’s a little commercialised with little shops manned by more elderly Japanese men and women selling miniature Tori gates, trinkets, charms , fans all that you can write on and left as offerings.

We climbed up to the start of the walk and slowed a little to allow space around us. People are mostly respectful but some dominate and take space posing for Instagram photos.

We walked along the path. No steps at this early stage.

We turned at the first gap in the gates and returned. This time there was writing on the orange posts.

A coffee stop on the way back to the train for our next stop Sanjusangen-do the Buddhist temple with 1,000 statues for Kannen the goddess of compassion with her many arms.

It had beautiful gardens surrounding the temple. the gardens of Japan are planned serene spots.

By now it was lightly raining so we got a very crowded bus to Sannenzaka and Ninen zaka two narrow sloping roads with flagstone and stone steps leading to Kiyomizudera temple.

The streets are traditional with old shopfronts now occupied by shops selling all types of food and souvenirs to the many people walking towards the temple.

Video shows the mallet throwing onto the dough to make a ball of dough filled with red bean.

Dressing in traditional kimono seems to be the way to go when visiting these temples and walking the traditional streets. There were many kimono hire shops in the main streets leading up towards the temple. not just young Japanese girls took the opportunity to wear them. Many western couples were dressed as well. Steve was not interested!

Looking back up to the temple. It’s all wooden with no nails used in construction

We wound down the rather steep path past mossy statues and headed for the main road.

Steve caught a bus to the National museum, the Wilsons headed to the Golden pavilion they missed yesterday, and I caught a bus to the main area of Kyoto to check out the other temple – the big Japanese department store devoted to shopping. It’s called Takashimaya

It’s beautiful. And super expensive!

I checked out the bookshop, the stationary, clothes and spent time in the food hall.

The wrapping on the boxed goods is a work of art. Just beautiful.

I wandered through the lanes to get home including popping into Uniqlo. It’s the same …… but different! Lots of tourist style t shirts. I might be tempted!!!

After a shower and freshen up we made our way to Tominojo restaurant in the Gion area.

What a great fun night we had. It’s a shabu shabu style restaurant. The young staff on one side of the long counter provided a ‘show’ – the young Nepalese woman explained how it would operate. We chose the Kobe beef and the style of hot pot and away we went. It was delicious and fun.

This shows how the nest is sliced and celebrated!

And so ended another great day.

Except I did mention toilets.

They are amazing! Everyone I’ve been to in stations, restaurants, hotels, department store, temple , shrines ……. They are clean and functional and all have multiple buttons.

They even have a chair to sit your baby while you go. They have child’s seat hanging ready for use.

They all have a panel on the wall. You can wash front and back , choose the water pressure , then dry . Wow. You could spend a long time in there!

I did promise to tell you about them. If you have questions just pop them in the comments.

Hakone circuit

October 14, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 1 Comment

Starting the day with a good breakfast is great. It keeps you going even though we weren’t walking much today. Today’s all about transport !

The free shuttle to Gora station had us first in line for the cable car. It headed up the hills behind the township of Gora.

Our driver was spic and span wearing white gloves and an important looking hat. It was smooth ride and delightful looking down at the trees. the autumn colours are starting to peek through.

Mt Fuji came into sight. We couldn’t believe the clear view we had when so many see it shrouded in cloud. I was a little disappointed it didn’t have a snowy peak depicted in almost every picture you see of it.

We changed to the rope way after a stop to view the quarry where sulphur mining was sending small clouds of sulphur upwards.

The ropeway took us down to Lake Ashi where we were boarding the curiously named Pirate boat. We paid $7 for first class which gave us a seat while we waited and access to the front of the boat.

Hakone is a pretty little lake side town with a few restaurants and craft shops. One in particular caught our eye.

Full of wood crafted items we all bought something. Steve bought a few bags of little wooden squares. He’s going to make a clock ! I bought the sweetest heart shaped broach.

Following lunch we caught a local bus using our Hakone free pass ( not free but at $71 gave us all the transport rides over 2 days ) Good value.

Back to the hotel on the local bus wound us up through the densely treed forest. Even their buses are efficient, clean and quiet. They signs are polite and observed.

Our loop of attractions was covered easily as we had few queues to hold us up. So lots of time to relax at the hotel.

Another bath in our private onsen on the verandah before a pre dinner cocktail before dinner rounded out a great day.

Heading to Hakone

October 12, 2025October 12, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 3 Comments

Travel in Japan is a treat. Things work! Everyone is polite and so helpful and their systems make sense.

We were able to take our bags down to the foyer this morning and have them measured and then forward them onto Kyoto where we arrive in two days. Paid in cash by the size. how fabulous.

We were able to travel to Shinjuku station in a maxi taxi with hand luggage holding our two days of clothes and toiletries. It makes travel easy.

We were on the Romance train for a 90 minute trip to Hakone where in a good day you can view Mt Fuji. We found our way through this giant of a station because the signs were simple to follow – lots of easy English signs everywhere.

I thought with a name like Romance we might have violins play us aboard. But no! It was the usual efficient lining up and boarding in an orderly manner. And no it wasn’t pink with red love hearts ♥️ but straightforward comfortable seats.

We left on the crack if 10! And glided out of Tokyo past the neat and tidy suburbs, with no graffiti tags to be seen. Just plenty of potted plants and tidy houses.

Arriving in Hakone Yamato was different. On to a more tourist type train, crowded, so we had no seat and swung from the hanging handles for nearly 40 minutes.

Not fun! Especially with no coffee.

Then into a local bus to our hotel.

We found reception after entering through an adjacent building which had an October beer festival starting.

Or rooms weren’t quite ready. It was only 1 PM. So we headed back to the beer feast and had lunch and a beer before walking down hill to the Harkone Open Air Art Museum What a gorgeous place.

Spread around a park like area of rolling slopes were the most amazing sculptures, a maze, separate small galleries featuring world famous sculptures, bronzes and even a gallery dedicated to the work of Picasso. He was one very busy artist with work in galleries world wide.

A free bus saved us from walking 19 mins uphill which gave us time to get to our very comfortable rooms and be ready to go to dinner at 5. Yes very early but we decided it suits us after big days and also gives plenty of time to relax in our lovely room with a private onsen on our verandah.

It seems we are encouraged to wear the traditional pyjamas to dinner. So just the girls embraced it. It took the decision of what to wear away and we felt fabulous.

Most people wore either the pjs or the yakata.

Dinner is included in the cost at our hotel the Hakone Kowakien Tenyu. It’s a buffet- but a beautifully presented one and we were given a private room to sit and enjoy.

After dinner we thought we were heading to our room but got distracted in the foyer.

There are machines with free ice creams. Drumsticks , icey blocks as well as biscuits, lollies teas and sparkling wine. Then a jazz band started so we sat and enjoyed the music with some of our group eating ice cream ( guess who) and some having a last drink.

Then the end if the day treat. A beautiful soak in the private onsen in the open air. It was gorgeous so I stayed in for at least an hour.

Now can hardly keep my eyes open to finish this blog. Excuse mistakes.

Japan : A Discovery

October 9, 2025October 9, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 4 Comments

We’ve always wanted to go to Japan but kept putting it off thinking it was so close we could go anytime!

Now’s the time. We rounded up friends Peter & Elizabeth from Crescent Head and Jill & Chris from Brisbane and started planning.

For some reason it seemed quite daunting. So different in so many ways to our previous holidays. But after talking to a travel company we decided we could do it ourselves. Especially with help from friend Aimee, a friend of our sons, who lived here for 6 years Let’s see!

We travelled to Sydney at 5.15. Which didn’t leave much time before boarding. No lounge for us. Pete & Elizabeth were at the gate. So lots of smiles and hugs. They nearly didn’t come. Both have been quite sick. But there they were!

The flight was good. We got the Qantas pjs always a treat. Especially seeing people disappear into the small toilets to wrestle into them.

Arrival into Tokyo was smooth. It was 5.40 when we landed and we were ushered through the priority lane. I’d like to think it’s because we looked important but I think it was our age.

A quick trip to the toilet. The toilets deserve a whole post of their own. They are big, spotless and well appointed. You could be in there for ages.

Note the buttons. Rear cleaning , front cleaning, off, on and flush.
Heated seats.

We met up with the Wilsons who arrived last night. Across the road to a coffee shop and some planning.

A visit to Lawsons kept us entertained. It’s another store like 7- eleven. Lots of everything. I bought an umbrella as it’s overcast and cooler than expected!

Now heading to Tokyo station to book a bunch of train tickets for the longer journeys over the next few weeks.

We navigated the underground quite well. Google maps helped. I’m not sure 6 people giving an opinion is helpful so a few of us butted out!!!

Next up was a 2 hr walking tour of the Imperial palace and gardens. You don’t get into any Palace but the other buildings and gardens were lovely. Our guide was an Australian from Wollongong. He’s lived here for 8 years and clearly explained the hierarchy involving the emperor , the shoguns ( they really welded the power) and the samurai.

We walked and listened and after 2 hours needed lunch! so it was back to Tokyo station and searching for a restaurant. We found a good one serving salad bowls of salmon , sushi sets and beer!

The weather has been overcast and blowy but no rain. Not hot like I thought it might be.

Back to the hotel to check in at 3 and finally shower. The hardy Jill, Chris and Steve headed straight out to visit a shrine The rest of us are showering, unpacking and resting.

Dinner tonight is at a Yakitori restaurant. Hopefully with a drink on a nearby rooftop.

A great first day.

Holidays: It’s a Wrap .

July 3, 2025July 3, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 7 Comments

Our last days.

Palermo and Cefalu. We packed an overnight bag and stored our bags to travel to the beachside town of Cefalu.

It’s the seaside playground for many Italians. It has a long seaside promenade, an old town , lots of churches, heaps of restaurants views to die for, a castle on a high hill behind the town and is only 52 mins by fast train from Palermo.

I booked Stella Vi a BnB there are mostly BnBs and not many hotels. And not many lifts. I tried. I really did.

80 steps up ! Lucky we left our bags in Palermo.

Arriving for lunch we headed from the train to the seaside. We’re like seagulls. An 8 min walk. yet another caprese salad. I love this simple salad.

We plan our activities around the heat …. And the stairs.

We checked in and Rosalia welcomed us. The room is beautifully done – all shiny tiles and Italian features. And 80 steps up!

After a siesta we headed to the hugely crowded beach.

Italians on holiday. At the public beach it was wall to wall umbrellas, almost nowhere to leave our clothes. We didn’t take phones, bags etc – beware of thieves!

There was sand! And a few little waves. But Italians don’t catch waves. But they do embrace the beach play. There were water sports. Shuttle cock & waterpolo balls everywhere. People standing in the shallows chatting.

Once again I was totally over dressed in my 1 piece swimming costume ! Everyone is in a bikini. The bottomless ones for all shapes and sizes. And 1 elderly granny in a 1 piece. And me.

Steve stunned them by going out the back and swimming!

We didn’t stay too long. It was very hot out of the water and we had to prepare for our evening passeggiata. And dinner on a seaside deck.

Dressing ready to slow walk through the old town it was such a scene. Everyone who wasn’t still on the beach were walking. Slowly. Looking tanned or burnt.

The cathedral had evening Mass on so we sat and observed. And fanned. Those fans aren’t just for show. Everyone uses them.

The shops were doing a great trade. Late shopping suits beach holiday makers.

We stopped for an apertivo. A light drink and snack is meant o stimulate the appetite! And it’s a great chance to observe the holiday makers.

At 8pm we headed to Liska. We had a beautiful table on the deck by the water. We sat and enjoyed mussels and Grillo my new favourite Italian white wine and recounted our holiday.

Steve did a huge walk – climb up the big hill or rock behind the town. it was very hot and took him nearly 2 hours to go up and back. He got some great photos.

Favourite experiences; for me Choir Blast with friend Ros and swimming 6km ( can I have two ?)

Favourite hotel : apart from our friends Bill and Marie France’ beautiful flat and niece Bertie’s BnB probably Favingnana. A week in one spot that had all we needed was great.

Best English experience: picnic and Opera at Glyndebourne.

Best meal : Rick Steins Seafood Padstow. And Pizza party at Bertie’s …. And Marie France’ great cooking and hospitality.

Best bed ; Bertie’s! Comfy and beautiful fresh air!

Best Hotel overall : maybe Palermo.

So many ‘bests’ it’s hard to narrow it down. My accomodation skills didn’t let me down.

Choir seems ages ago. But it was so memorable- sharing with our friends Ros and David. Bonding with the choir friends.

Swim trek with Francesco and meeting Guila. Shared swimming with the Americans and the Aussies. Glorious swims. Fantastic sunsets.

Our last night was in a BnB 10 minutes from Palermo airport. We herded somewhere close. It was perfect. Big grounds with a swimming pool and every detail covered. A walk to a pizza restaurant with views.

And so the sunsets on our holiday are over.

Except for the 10 hr layover in Singapore. I booked a hotel by the hour. It was great and decided that’s all we wanted. Air con, wifi, bed shower restaurant. We got it.

And as we take off in Singapore one row from a choir buddy , her family and her mum who I met on tour I think how lucky I am. Family here we come.

No Mafia.

July 1, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 4 Comments

Our day started with breakfast on the terrace

A short walk up Via Maquardo to Teatro Massimo to meet Hermes – our guide.

Hermes pointed out if we wanted to find out about art, churches and galleries then we were on the wrong tour.

He was here to walk us through the history of the Mafia.

He explained the reason he has made it a lifetime crusade. When he was 6, he remembers hearing the sounds of a huge bomb exploding on the motorway near his house. It was the bomb that killed the anti mafia judge Falcone and his wife.

It was after this happened that people began to object and say NO. Businesses targeted to pay Pizzo started to say no more payments will be made. It has grown. Shops show a sign to show they are not paying’pizzo’ or ‘protection ‘ money to the mafia.

Hermes led us to various sights and we sat – in the shade thankfully and listened to how the mafia operated with shops. the police, the church, politicians and how it has changed over the years. But still they exist.

A wall with pictures of those killed by the mafia.

We walked through the markets towards the courts.

We finished outside the fountain of shame. Called this because it has many nude statues. And either side of the fountain is a church and a convent. It was considered shameful for the nuns to have to look at the nude statues !

A visit to the nuns bakery for the best cannoli in town. They were huge. And I forgot to get a picture.

It was noon and hot so back to our hotel across the road for a cool down

At 2pm we hit the streets again. To visit the Royal Palace and the Palatine Chapel – another Roger 1 build when he conquered Sicily in 1130 something !

The Palace is used for Parliament sittings except when open to the public.

As usual lots of stairs to climb. but definitely worth it for the Chapel. It’s stunning with its mosaics

I discovered Elliot Erwitt. A photographer his exhibition was in the palace and is stunning.

Back down the Via to the cathedral which is very grand. Inside was a buzz of noise. All the locals were gathering ! Something was happening. The Franciscan friars were all strolling in looking hot.

Locals were greeting them and showering them with double kisses and holding little portable fans to their hot sweaty faces. Everyone else was fanning away. It was fascinating to watch.

Back to our room to freshen up. We were having mother Marion and her daughters Grace and Celia meet us on our terrace for drinks.

They were on the swim trek and we saw them here yesterday and arranged a drink.

The day still wasn’t over !

After drinks and grazing plates Steve and I left for Teatro Massimo. We wanted to see their opera theatre and found a concert. Opera favourites. Starting at 9pm it was late for us!

Entering the stalls of the Teatro Massimo

The baritone and soprano were young and great.

We walked home at around 10.30 exhausted. And the city was coming alive!

Palermo : I Like You

June 30, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 2 Comments

Travel is so easy these days with phones holding tickets, maps, advice, hotel bookings. Everything you need is saved online.

We had a eSIM in England but here we’ve managed with Wifi with the odd day on Telstra.

The bus into Palermo was about 2, hours from the ferry at Trapani. It was a very hot day so the good air con was welcome.

The bus stopped at Via Vittorio Emanuel and 5 minutes walk we were in our hotel.

I was very pleased with this one. A lift! is a win , a big cool room and bathroom. 4th floor and the loveliest young woman on reception.

Steps outside the hotel is …… everything. We are just a few steps to the corner Quattro Canti at the end of via Maqueda which is the restaurant, cafe bar street and leads everywhere.

Leaving out bags we headed out for a slow walk. It was hot but walking on the shade side was good. A nice breeze came up from the port and we wandered past Palazzos which in their day must have been amazing.

Now they are home to multiple apartments and BnB’s though it easy to see how grand they would be.

Three hours walking led us to an afternoon in the cool before heading to our roof to for an evening Aperol before our passaggiatti

The roof top bar is like an oasis above the noise of the street below. In need of a secondi – a plate of something other than antipasto we headed out into the street walking past the buskers, the street food vendors , the aperol mobile carts, the few rough sleepers, teenage groups of Ragazzi , people sucking on vapes, groups drinking vino outside restaurants waiting to get in

Palermo is a surprisingly lovely city. It has its edge. It’s busy, but quite clean. Magnificent buildings

We’ll find out more about its ‘ underbelly ‘ tomorrow on the No Mafia tour

Last Swim Days

June 30, 2025 / brisbanefrannie / 4 Comments

Guila smearing me with Vasalino for the last time…..to prevent swimmers rash!

Oh I’m so behind in my blogs. I’ve been in Palermo for 2 days and I’m still back in Favingnana ! Well the blog is.

The last day swimming was once again without our dear Francesco.

He would hate being sick and missing out.

The last swims were different and perfect.

The swimmers have relaxed and all chatting more.

In the evening we’re having a farewell dinner at Eduardo’s brother’s restaurant. It’s all about family here in Italy.

Eduardo has been lots of fun. He has told us all about his girlfriends but now declares his true love is Guila. It’s become a funny ongoing joke.

Francesco has asked us all to send him a few words about swimming and the sea. Something that shows our feelings for it. he has a game for us.

Everyone dressed up a but – island style for the last dinner together. We shared taxis and drove along the island to Giuseppe’s restaurant. It’s a big area. All outdoor tables facing the bay and the setting sun. A beautiful simple setting.

The fun begins with Aperols and continues with more Aperol or a Grillo ( a lovely light white wine)

The food is shared grazing plates and is simple but beautiful.

Photos are taken memories made.

We’ve known Francesco for 11 years so are so pleased he’s made the dinner so we can say farewell. This could be our last swim trek.

After dinner Francesco and Guila say a few words of farewell and start to give out the certificates. But on the back there is a quote written by one of the group. We have to guess who wrote it.

I read one out. It was a Haiku and I guessed Colleen. Later in the evening it was Colleen’s turn ( Dora the explorer) she read out the words. It was a Haiku! Mine. She guessed straight away. So funny we hit each others. Steve and her husband also got each others. They were both the shortest quotes.

Mine said

Swimming in the sea Blue water beautiful fish Gives me calm and peace

Steve’s: Adoro I’ll mare

Lots of photos. Lots of hugs. It was all over.

frans travel tales

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