The weather cleared and we farewelled Jackson as we headed off on our big adventure.

Every time I mention Yellowstone people say look out for Kevin Costner ! From the TV series of the same name. Have you watched it? Rumour has it that he bought a ranch here years ago ( after making Dances with Wolves ) and he’s just sold it.

I purchased an app for guiding us through the two NP. Tetons ( meaning two teats or breasts so named by the French when first travelling here ) this will be like having a guide in the car with us. Our supposed to be travel companions Lisa & John suggested it. Then they got covid and couldn’t come with us. So I bought one called Shaka. It was recommended and comes with full GPS guidance and will work without wifi.

We headed out of Jackson and the first stop was the Mormon houses. They travelled to this area and set up farms around 1846. The structures that remain from early Mormon settlers are framed perfectly with an amazing view of the eastern side of the Tetons

Next stop was Snake River. Not because it’s shaped like a snake but is named for the Snake Indians, the Shoshone, through whose country the greater part of the river flows. The Indians, in turn, were named “Snake” by their Plains neighbours to the east, possibly because they reputedly used snake heads painted on sticks to terrify their Plains enemies.

Taking a walk along the river we looked for beavers but only saw ducks and artists.

Next stop was the tiny Catholic Church which holds services only in summer. It’s a tiny dark wood church with one stained glass window.

We entered the park paying the $ 30 fee which definitely goes to a good cause to maintain these parks. It’s good for 7 days.

Straight to thermal activity at West Thumb. The thermal activity caused by being on top of the caldera from thousands of years ago.

The pools are amazing as the colours alter depending on size, heat, age. The boardwalks around the thermal activity make it easy to see them up close.

As you can see the pools are all different in size and colour. I’d love to pop into one – but the heat coming off them remind you they are twice boiling point. So …. No swims.

After walking and admiring the elk – who stand in the steam to keep warm apparently, we headed to Old Faithful.

This is the area with the biggest – of everything. Including the biggest geyser. There are 4 big ones and several smaller one right outside the hotel.

The original Inn is a massive, completely wood structure. Built in 1903 it’s made with local logs and stone, the inn is considered the largest log structure in the world. The towering lobby has a massive stone fireplace and a hand-crafted clock made of copper, wood and wrought iron serving as focal points.

We’ve stayed two nights in Old Faithful Lodge cabins. Very basic but they have a bathroom. The big Old Faithful Inn has a lot of rooms but some without bathrooms.

The newer Snow Lodge has rooms and cabins

There are three stories of balconies overlooking the main floor. A pianist entertains while people sit, read and wait for dinner. It is so big and so many people are staying, the restaurant, though huge struggles. Even with a booking you have to queue up. The only booking John could get when booking in months ago was 8.45. What !

It was an excruciating time to wait. After our long travel days we like earlier nights. The dining room when we finally got there is massive. A big fireplace , huge wagon wheel chandeliers, etched glass, enormous timber railings, timber timber everywhere.

When you sit for dinner your ‘server’ introduces themselves and starts up a pleasant chat. They are all lovely and I guess hoping for a generous tip. Their wages are still not as good as hospitality workers in Australia so rely on tips.

Day 2.

Our time in the big Y continues……

It was cold last night and snow was predicted. We still managed to be out in the cool by 8.30. Lots to see.

Yellowstone is accessed by a ring road shaped like an 8. We’re staying two nights in the lower left circle of the 8. The park is divided into west and east and we are exploring most of the western thermal areas in one and a half days. Then exploring the eastern side which has sweeping views that rival the Grand Canyon and has more valleys with the big animals. The bison, elk, a wolf if we’re lucky , moose, birds, fox. We’ll have to keep our eyes peeled. When you see cars pulled over and people all looking in one direction you know something has been spied!

Today’s highlights are many. The thermal pool are great.

There are rangers all over but this one looked a classic.

The board walks circle the pools making it easy to view them up close.

We made lots of little stops along the way. The tracks are easy most of the time. Though there are much longer, harder trails.

We got to Mammoth on the top of the 8. A lunch break under the trees needing padded jacket , hat and gloves.

The highlight of Mammoth was seeing all the elk in town. They took over the town. Rangers had to direct people and cars away from them.

We drove to the northern gate especially to go through the Arch.

Enter Yellowstone National Park from the north and you’ll see the iconic Roosevelt Arch. Completed on August 15, 1903, the massive stone structure offers a glimpse into the park’s early years.

Back in those days, before the mass production of the automobile, vacationers travelled by train. Before 1903, trains brought passengers up to Cinnabar, Montana., where people would then get into horse-drawn carriages to enter the park’s sweeping landscape. That year, however, with the Northern Pacific Railway’s extension to Gardiner, Mont., visitors would now have easier access.

Our last night we had dinner at the Snow Lounge restaurant. You can’t book so we sat in the sky lounge looking out at the geyser had a drink and saw the first line disappear into the restaurant …..then you can put your name down and get a buzzer. Much better idea.

Dinner was delicious.

Day 3:

Today we drove to Norris and then went East across the middle of the 8 to Canyon.

We set off along the eastern loop , the canyon & valley (and a few more thermal areas) side. With our handy audio guide and map on the car satnav we were guided to all the great spots to see something interesting or, to walk or find a good picnic spot.

We gathered information at the Visitors Centre and then headed north to the top of the 8

Once again stunning. It had snowed last night and the trees were dusted with snow.

Out of the high area of forest and back down to the plains and along to Lamar Valley. We weren’t disappointed.

We saw the big bison close up. They came and crossed in front of us. Then we spotted an owl. And I was particularly pleased to see a Yellowstone Pronghorn. It’s often mistaken for an antelope.

We looped back and started in the lower part of the 8. Driving south we drove the upper rim of what they call Yellowstone Grand Canyon. The river gathers speed and power as it enters the canyon then BOOM. Down it goes as a waterfall. We had to walk down a steep path for 2km to see the water fall up close. That meant 2 km back up. As you can tell my knee has improved. It will ache tonight but no walking stick!

We continued south to our new cabin for tonight. Lake Lodge. It’s in Yellowstone Lake which is big ( everything here is big)

Our cabin is good. Better than Old Faithful. We checked in & rushed to our very early dinner. John had made bookings ages ago and had to take what he could get. Tonight was 5.30. But that suited. ( better than 8.45 the other night) The dining room was beautiful and we could see the lake. The meal was delicious . Once again I had trout. We then sat in the lounge and did some catching up. FaceTimed Ollie our grandson in Bali. Met a lovely man from Ghent. Watched some young people playing pickle ball ( remember said it was a big craze here) .

Our time in Yellowstone had been great. It’s a big NP but talk about lots on offer ! There are thermal pool, geysers, mountains, canyons, plains, herds of animals, lakes, and snow!

HINTS:

There are 5 main stops in Yellowstone: Old Faithful, Canyon Village, Mammoth Hot Springs, Fishing Bridge- Lake Village & West Thumb . These have Visitors Centres, General Stores & a few other facilities.

If you are planning a trip, think about where to stay to avoid backtracking too much. That’s if you’ve only got 3 nights. If you have more time then two nights in each spot.

We had two nights in Old Faithful , one at Lake Lodge. Doing it again, even though you’d move each day I’d say 1 in Old Faithful, 1 at Mammoth Falls, 1 at Lake Hotel or Lodge cabin. Depending on your budget……. The cabins are great – though a little basic ( lake lodge is good. ) maybe a hotel room ? In saying that, I like the quietness of the cabins.

Book everything ahead.

Some people like to stay at the towns just outside the Park itself. This would be cheaper & offer more variety of eating options. This could be good though depending on the day you could queue to get into the park. This morning when we left by the West Yellowstone gate the queue was at least 1km long and moving slowly.

Tickets : the first time you enter the Park you pay $30 and that is good for 7 days. So you can come and go. Stay at Jackson, West Yellowstone, even Cody an hour away.

Summer here would be so busy, it might get hard moving around. We’re here in Sept 20-24 and it’s quite busy though they are winding down. Staff has decreased. Minor roads ( little loop roads to walks or views) will start to close. Though it could be lovely with snow!