10 Favourite Villages in France.

Today I’m going to tell you about my 10 favourite villages in France.

I usually prefer smaller villages as they are easier to get to know in a few days. Big cities need longer to delve into.

So ……. In no particular order

  1. Cotignac in Provence. I’ve been here twice to stay with good friends in their house in the village. It’s  a beautiful village – almost perfect when it comes to French villages. Big enough to have a good selection of businesses – bakery, cafes and great markets on Wednesday and Saturday. It is a good base for exploring nearby villages Aups, TourTour, Salernes as well as the Gorge de Verdan. It’s about an hour to the coast and lovely seaside towns like Cassis. Also an hour to Aix en Provence.   
  2. Avignon  Also in Provence this is a great base for exploring the area. It’s a good size to be interesting on it’s own – it has the amazing Palace of the Popes, so lots of history and is a driveable distance from the charming St Remy, L’isle sur-la-Sorgue, Arles and many other little villages. As an alternative stay in St Remy visit Avignon and other little villages.   
  3. The Loire Valley: This is a gorgeous area and you can choose any number of little villages to base yourself. We picked Amboise. It has a wonderful Castle and is also home to Chateau du Clos,  the house and garden of Leonardo da Vinci. We stayed at a great little house directly opposite the castle. Not expensive and very comfortable. it can be found on http://www.homeaway.com.au/holiday-rental/p258188vb The Chateaux in the area are magnificent.  
  4. We’ve also been to the Champagne area and stayed one night in Epernay and then in Hautville, a small village nearby and for me a better option. Only 15mins away so easy taxi ride in to do a Champagne House tour. The B&B was very good La Chevalee. We also visited Reim but I wouldn’t stay there…..  
  5. We travelled south into Burgundy and stayed at Noyers-sur-Serein. A really lovely medieval village. We had 3 nights  and explored the area.  Our B&B was called Cote-Serein – Chambres de la Tour and was in the village.  
  6. Strasbourg     Not a village but a charming small city. I had a week here on my own and loved it. Its only 2 hrs by fast train to Paris and easy to get around. A car might be handy to explore the Alsace Lorraine wine trail but there are trains and buses to get you around. I took a great wine tour .
  7. Carcassonne on the west is a lovely walled town (we stayed in the Best Western inside the walls). A great place to base yourself to explore the area.  
  8. St Emilion,    Biarritz and Bordeaux are all lovely places to explore. Biarritz is good in summer for a swim. Its a lovely village with good food and a not so lovely Casino. A half day drive to St Emilion for a few days to explorethe wine region and easy to get into Bordeaux for the day by train. Stay in the lovely Des Chambres l’Ovaline B&B right at the entrance to the town. The town has a wonderful underground Church and a tour of the vineyards is good to do.
  9. Bayeux    You must go to Bayeux to see the tapestry. It’s a must.  Also as a base to explore the beaches famous for the Normandy invasion. Stay at La Villa a great B&B.
  10. St Malo:    The book ‘All the Light I cannot see” by Anthony Doerr is set here and it’s a charming seaside village (surrounded by a large modern town). Its a port and you can sail from here to the Channel Islands.its also close to Dinan another lovely village. 

For more information on these places check out the rest of the blog.

Please put the names of your favourite villages in the comments box. Love to get some of your suggestions. 

Watch out for my next post: Paris. Where to stay, what to do.

 

 

 

 

 

 

How to pick the perfect accommodation. 

Lots of friends ask me tips for choosing the best hotel , apartment & B&B. 

Admittedly I do spent a crazy amount of time selecting but over the years I have become better at finding  good accommodation. 

These are my guidelines. 

1. When you know where your are going start by googling that place and usually I’ll then go to Booking.com. I have signed up for an account and this pays off because the more you use it to book the more points you earn towards better deals. I also like to use it because all the bookings  made ( or even cancelled ) are kept on your account. This is a good reference when suggesting places to friends. It also often lets you book but often allows cancellation without penalty. 

2. Then you put your destination in and dates (if you know them ) and when the list comes up I go straight to the map and look at the locations. It’s no good finding what sounds like a great hotel but then finding its away from the main part of town or city. 

3. Browse a few to compare. Look at prices and features and read reviews. I focus more on the negatives. If there are just a few picky type negatives I tend to go to trip advisor to see the reviews there and compare. Be careful to check air con if it’s summer, stairs if no lift, parking ……

4. I always Google earth the location and look at the satellite view to see if it’s next to something bad – major highway, tip, railway line. 

5. Make a booking but be sure you can cancel without penalty. In peak times this is very important because things book out very easily. You can always cancel if something changes or you find another place. 

6. Look on Trip advisor reviews for room tips. They are usually at the end of a review if someone mentions the room they liked. Then if you get a few tips put that in your booking request. Eg: first floor away from the street. 

The only time I have broken my own rule on location I was sorry. I had thought it was too far away from the action! But  I booked anyway. And despite the good reviews of  great breakfast , good beds , free bikes, all day tea coffee …… I would prefer a great location. 

I’ve got good lists of places to stay particularly in Italy and France so email me if you want some advice. 

brisbanefrannie@gmail.com

Travel plans for 2016

The New Year is here and we are planning our next adventures.

I look back at our  holidays last year. The trip to France and Spain in August was wonderful. Check the stories out in earlier posts. Then our recent trip to Cambodia to see Pete and Elena and celebrate their engagement was amazing.

As I sit on the beach chatting to friends we share stories of last years travel and what’s on our bucket list for this year.

Lea fancies Norway and Russia and as does Jill. Two friends both leaning towards the same places!  Susie is looking at India and maybe a wedding. Carmel will be going back to Sri Lanka and India for work. And the Maitlands have a few little holidays and surprise surprise another swim trek. This time to Montenegro. We’ll follow up with a week or two in my favourite country – Italy. This time in the heel of the country – arriving in Bari and heading south to Otranto and holidaying the way Italians do.

Other little holidays or ‘getaways’ this year include. Melbourne for Australia Day and perhaps a night at the tennis. Another visit in February to Melbourne with friends for the Edinburgh  Tattoo. Yes it’s coming to Melbourne!

Then in April,  New Zealand with Chris and Jill Wilson to visit friends from our Greece swim trek. Steve is braving the cool waters of Auckland and doing a swim with Kim and David. We’ll also visit the area called the Coramandel.

We head to Sydney for niece Pips wedding to Hugh in April and then nephew Patrick’s wedding to Lauren in Port Macquarie in May. Hopefully we’ll be able to call into Crescent Head to visit the McGregors.

By June we’ll be preparing for our holiday swimming in Montenegro and touring Puglia.

Maybe the USA in October to visit our swim trekking friends and sample the wines near Lodi where Jordan’s parents live.

Then in December it’s back to beautiful Cambodia for Peter and Elena’s wedding. It’s on Dec 20. The date they met and the date two years later they got engaged.  We can’t wait.

So that’s it’s for holidays at the moment. Lots to look forward to.

Driving to the Airport

I love the roads here. Yes they are dusty and very busy. But they are endlessly entertaining. 

These are some of the things we saw; 

   
   Three on a bike is common! 

  Carrying shopping or half your house in a tuk tuk!

  When the traffic slows just ride on the footpath! And no one worries!

  Blow up toys on the footpath and 

  On a bike

  Fruit sellers

  Nurseries
  Chairs
  More deliveries on the footpath. 

  Family and friends together. 

  Pigs

  
We saw fire engines. Then we saw the fire!

  
Then the ambulance
Phnom Penh. Crazy but gets under your skin. 

Museums, a Palace and Beer. 

Unfortunately El has to work today so we are sight-seeing with Pete. We started with a quick swim and wandered down to Che Culo , Nick’s bar where El is manager. 

It’s an easy stroll down the narrow street, lined with tuk tuk drivers lounging inside their tuks calling lazily ‘A ride for you today?’ We also pass several spas ( everyone here must have ripped muscles and smooth skin judging by the number of spas), a nice looking backpackers placed called The Monkey bar , an English school called Harrods, a coffee shop, a child care centre, a French man selling beautiful pate, sausages and other lovely meats, a few apartment blocks and a restaurant called il Forno: the manager Antonio has become a ‘friend’ as we met him through El in Siem Reap. 

Most the streets around here are like this one. Not too busy, mixture of little shops, bars, restaurants, coffee shops etc.  

  I enjoyed my first coffee in 2 weeks! A piccolo. 

Then it was in a tuk and away to the National Museum – a rather lovely building with an interesting collection of statues mostly of Buddha and Vishna. Having been to Siem Reap helped with already having some knowledge of Buddhism and the Cambodian empire as it was. 

It was back out to the museum of the local street a fascinating landscape of people, transport and interesting businesses. We were on ‘Art St’ and walked in and out of the many little galleries fitted along the street. Most had fairly garish large paintings but some were just lovely. I liked one little square canvas of a temple black and white with just two monks in colour. Next thing old romantic Pete was asking the price on a similar one of Ankor Wat because it showed the spot where he had proposed to El. He bought it as a surprise for her. 

Down the tree lined street we walked towards the river and went up to the balcony of the FCC club for a beer and lovely views of the river – not to mention the welcome breeze. Although it’s warm here it’s no worse than Brisbane on  a hot summers day. Pete tells me it’s still winter and we have been enjoying the best weather for months. Lucky us! Wouldn’t want to be here in May June – apparently the hottest time. 

After our break we walked down the river to the Palace and its many outstanding buildings a collection of ornate temples, stupas, reception rooms and other decorated pagoda style buildings. We toured around taking shoes on and off as we entered the temples. You need easy to remove shoes here as you are  on and off with them everywhere. El was wearing things that were too small for her because when she returned someone had taken hers! We like to think it was a mistake! But who knows. 

By now the sun was very warm so we walked awhile observing the locals and made our way back to Che Culo then a swim before heading to Pete and El’s for a balcony dinner. 

They went to so much trouble to make a lovely dinner for us. and was relaxed and delicious. Music, candles entree, salad slow cooked pork.  All delicious. They even. Bought ice cream and chocolate for Steve as they know he loves it. Thank you El and Pete.   

 

Last Day 

Our little breakfast routine is established but today we slept in and missed the 10 am cut off. Must be relaxed! 

Went for coffee to Che Culo and met up with the kids and set off to Pete’s school. It’s about 20 mins from his place and in a quiet street – relatively speaking! It’s a primary class campus with the infants school a block away. There is a security guard at the entrance who greeted Peter like a long lost friend and then various grounds people all giving friendly greetings. We walked up to the top of the building – 4 flights  – where both year 4s share a landing. Pete’s room is basic but set up well( teacher in me speaking!). Mind you he has a full time Teacher Assistant!  

         
  
The other Yr 4 is teacher Gary from England , a nice guy we met in Kampot a few days ago along with Principal Justin from NSW. 

Then off to the Central Market. Housed in a large domed building radiating out from the dome they are clean and very organised by Asian standards.   Did a bit of shopping and marvelled at the jewellery counter. Lots of bling. Much easier to negotiate than the Russian markets where you need to leave a crumb trail to find your way out. 

  Lunch is always a feature of our day and today didn’t disappoint. Off to a yum char feed. Pete has all the food types covered and knows where to get the best of everything. (Usually the cheapest as well)  

 We prepared for the last night and took a wonderful sunset cruise only $5 head and practically had a whole boat to ourselves. We took along our own wine as a sundowner and settled in for the hour long cruise along the river. Again spectacular.  

   

     
 Back to The Chinese House for a drink  where the Sth African owner made a fuss of El and finally to Romdeng. It’s s classic Camboduan sophisticated restaurant used as a training place for hospitality workers. It’s was perfect. Food wonderful. Even tried the crispy tarantulas! Brava!  

   

  

Pecking Order in PP

Phnom Penh is a mixing pot of people – many who seem to be hiding from something, running away, looking for adventure, wanting to help or even exploit people , start a business or to simply enjoy life in an Asian country. 

Talking about this with Pete and his friend Nick,  they said they’d come up a pecking order.  

It goes like this: ( and the glossary is at the end)

  • The corporate expats look down on teachers,
  • Teachers look down on NGOs,
  • NGOs down on backpackers, 
  • Backpackers look down on sexpats,
  • Sexpats look down on deathpats,
  • And everyone looks down on the French. (Remember this is me quoting )

GLOSSARY:

Corporates: those who work with professional businesses including bankers, qualified teachers etc

Teachers: those who come over to teach English with few qualifications. 

NGOs : those who come to volunteer for organisations who help the locals. Mostly do it to help but others to feel good themselves and then  complain about conditions. 

Backpackers: those here to travel on the cheap and see the country but spend most of the time drunk. 

Sexpats: those who come for lots sex on holidays. Hopefully not with underage children. 

Deathpats: those older people who come to die on the cheap. Either drink or drug themselves to death. 

French: those French people who think and act like they still own the country. 

Sunset over Kampot River

Back from the cooking class and an hour to change. Tuk tuk waiting at the front of the guest house. 

No time to lose. Sunsets don’t wait. Neither do the boats! 

We made it and they have beer on board which makes Steve and Pete quite happy. 

 

view of the rover from our balcony

  
 
We got on the boat at Riverside with 2 minutes to spare with Peter the South African from our guest house. My goodness he asked a lot of questions. Best not say too much about him! 

The cruise got underway and it was great to see the river from a boat. To cruise past some of the places built along the banks including the spa we went to the other day and Greenhouse where we spent many hours on Christmas Day ( and just might be the venue of  Pete and El’s Cambodian wedding next December) It was lovely.  

settling in for a sundowner

  

Villa Vedici. some family & friends could stay here for the wedding

  

bungalows on the river. love to stay here.

 
Then the sun in all its glorious colours began to set. Stunning. I know I said it last night but it’s done it again! It’s gorgeous!  

Again. 

   
   
After the cruise we tuk tukked to Samon villa on the river to meet up with friends of Pete ‘s from PP. in fact his Principal and his yr 4 teaching partner Gary from the UK. 

  A lovely last night

From Farm to Table. Cooking class in the Cambodian country side. 

I’m getting used to little omelet for breakfast ! Not that I need food today. It’s cooking school day!

Our pick up by tuk tuk was arranged by the cooking school and right on 10 our lovely man arrived and we set off for a 45 min ride. The best part was arriving in the countryside. Bumping down the dusty red lanes looking out of the Cambodian countryside was a treat. Come along……


 It was as though the people here have more skills and pride in their surroundings than those poorer people in the bigger towns. The fields were green and productive growing Durians, rice, corn all types of vegetable with cows wandering and a few pigs sitting under a tree.

We eventually turned off at a lake know as the secret lake. It was man made during the Khmer Rouge time , hand dug by the Cambodians they had taken captive. It looks lovely now surrounded by trees and hills in the background. It doesn’t even hint at the blood that was shed in its making. We had to get out of the tuk to get up the hill at the end of the causeway and then continued along the road past fields with workers toiling in the heat.

  
We arrived at the farm and walked in from the parking area. We crossed a creek on a 2 plank bridge and went past newly planted corn, papaya trees, banana trees, basil, eggplant, pumpkin, lemongrass, galangal, chilli, kaffir lime….. All ingredients we were to use later.

Our host and chef, Sok Lin greeted us wearing a cute little peaked cap. He told us to make ourselves at home before the tour of the farm to collect our vegetable for today’s dishes. There was a blackboard menu leaning against a tree with about 8 dishes. We could each choose one to cook later.

We relaxed in hammocks slung from the open walls of the kitchen.

Then Sok came back and with an  offsider his young neighbour – a boy 14 who looked about 10. He was so cute.  They walked us around the small but very productive farm. He used to have a restaurant in Kampot but decided he wanted to use his own ingredients so moved here with his English wife and they live very simply and run a cooking school with very basic amenities.

  
 There is an open kitchen, their house next door is just a room and verandah up off the ground. Another thatched area for their things. Then a short distance away 3 thatched huts on stilts,  a toilet and shower area – thatched with tiled floors. No electricity. Powered by cow dung ! Garden fertilizer from the toilet. Self sustaining and clean and neat.

The cooking started and we all were given our ingredients , told what to do then just went ahead with Sok watching and guiding.

the young helper and out tuk driver

El being watched by the young helper

 

peter grating hte cocnut to make the fresh coconut milk!

 

 

Sok lin keeping watch as we chop

Results were delicious. Peter did pepper chicken, Steve masaman  curry, El a yellow curry and I did smoky eggplant with chicken.

It seemed easy! But I think if you have the right ingredients it is easy to make good, tasty nutritious meals. And here they do it so cheaply and not in large amounts.

Now I’m writing this lying in a hammock relaxing until our hour tuk tuk ride home.

Back into the tuk for a bumpy but very pleasant ride home through the country side. Some great sights!

 

local boys collecting little fish from mud puddles

 

Tonight a sunset cruise.

Blissful spa and Pepper Crab

Today I was being thoroughly spoilt. My Christmas present from El was a 4 hour pamper package at a women’s only spa  just out of town on the river. Peter gave El the same thing! So we headed off together around 10.30.  

 What a great experience. We arrived and off with our shoes Cambodian style and down to the covered deck on the edge of the river. El had a quick dip and Tea was served from gently smiling young Cambodian women. 

 
 When it was time to start we headed up the stairs into the loft area which had billowing white curtains and fans whirring quietly. Down onto the plain bed for the first treatment : a papaya and honey scrub. I’d never had a scrub before and boy did I like it. My girl had strong and careful hands and for an hour scrubbed every bit of my dry skin. Then a wipe down,  a shower,  some more green tea before upstairs again wrapped in a pretty sarong. Then came the aromatherapy massage. Blissful I must say. By now we were both so relaxed. But there was more. We had a healthy fresh juice and then it was the facial. Gorgeous. 

It all ended with another shower and then into the tuk tuk and off to Kep with the boys. I think some of the good of the massage and facial was undone after the rattling journey along the coast to Kep. 

Kep is a seaside town best known for it pepper crab. We stopped at one of the many restaurants along the waterfront and got stuck into two pepper crabs  between us. Yum. They are becoming very famous and people travel down from PP for the day to eat them. 

  
We washed up at the two sinks convienently  placed in the middle of the restaurant so you can duck over at any time and wash your hands. So practical! We finished and walked along the beach front and looked at the markets. Same but different to markets the world over. 

  
  
The ladies in the markets are a pleasure to watch. All friendly and going about their business with calm and contentment. 

  
Simple lives. Simple pleasures. 

  
It would be good if we all seemed to enjoy our work. 

Then a walk along the coast and around the corner to a beach Pete had never been to. It was a pretty horse shoe shaped bay with people splashing around and could have been in any number of countries. The sand was white, the children playing soccer, the parents in groups chatting. People setting up their own comfy chairs along the promenade. We stopped for a drink at the Beach House hotel and watched the spectacular sunset. Ah! So beautiful. I’m entranced by sunsets and having seen a few good ones this one was right up with them. 

  
   
 
And so back to Kampot for a quick drink and dinner before heading back to our guest house. 

Did I mention that for the first time in a long while I got the accomodation WRONG. Yes , me who checks everything. I didn’t follow my gut this time. As it had  glowing reviews and seemingly good facilities. I went for comfort over position. And as a consequence we have to get a tuk tuk every time we go to the little town centre. I kind of sensed it would be wrong but didn’t change and of course now I’m sorry! 

Next time I’ll follow my instincts!