Author: brisbanefrannie

From Amboise to Villandry

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Wednesday and Thursday


We woke to rain but crossed our fingers and set off for Villandry. I was very keen to see it after hearing all about it from ADFAS and Margaret. The sun came out and we arrived at this beautiful chateau in a pretty little town. Most of the tourists have gone for the season so parking and entrance is easy. 

We started in the garden and walked and walked . The woods, formal gardens, herb and vegetable gardens and the maze all beautifully laid out. The plans for the veggies is at each garden square so you can easily identify what is growing . The colours and types are carefully set out making it so inviting to see. The veggies are used in the cafe at the side of the chateau which is a nice touch and the usual shop is also a treat as it’s a garden shop. 
Inside the chateau the story of the owners unfolded and as is usually the case an American inheritance helped set up the recovery of the chateau. It’s a good story and the family films of their family weddings etc give it a really personal touch. There were even family photos around which make it more a home. Wonderful experience
After our baguette we headed off to Chinon for another experience  this time a fortress. Very well done with a lot of short dramatisations which for me brought the history alive. These places area amazing in their history – the stories of kings queens, mistresses, illegitimate children all make great reading. Even a re-enactment of Joan of Arc’s visit to Chinon. 
We climbed all the towers and the veiws over the grey and white houses of the town and the green vineyards were the reward! I’d like a euro for all the steps climbed this holiday! Starting back in Lerici where we had 90 steps up to our apartment! (are you reading this Pat?). The steps are doing their bit to make sure I don’t completely turn to mush. And the knee is holding up! 
We got back to our little “blue door” house and prepared for dinner. Another coup de la champagne? 
Thursday 
More rain but we know it will clear so off we go to the chateau where Leonardo da Vinci spent his last 3 years.  It is a small  chateau with the most beautiful garden. His bedroom looks towards Amboise castle which is opposite our little house. 
Chenonceaux. Oh. What a fairy tale place. Long tree-lined walk towards the chateaux  which is perched over the water – looking like a hand or piano keys across the river. The gardens are magnificent and Francois 1 who had it built had fine taste. His 2 wives and mistress all had wonderful bedrooms and the kitchen staff must have loved their part of the house. 
What I have noticed in all the chateau are the flowers. They have the most wonderful  flower arrangements in all the rooms. I have found myself taking photos of the flowers more than the furnishings! They are all colours to suit the colours in the room. Catherine de Medici his second wife had a huge display of red roses in her rather red bedroom. Ginetta , you would love it. 

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Picnic along the way! driving to France

Last Aperol and Prosecco apertif in Aosta

The boys and Carmel in the cutsie main street of Aosta looking for a restaurant .

Markets and guys just don’t mix! Macon in France

First French red Vespa.Thinking thinking . Is it me!

Carmel, the ex Ursuline convent girl at the Ursuline Museum

Our view from the little house in Amboise. Truly this is the view.

Me sitting in the window looking at the view. 

From Italy to France

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Time to leave Italy for a while and sample the delights of France.
Now I know there are two camps  – those who love Italy best ( I know who you are) and those who favour France.
What is the difference? Let’s see!
Well we set off from San Gimignano at around 9 and drive Steve style along the coast of Liguria before heading north near Genoa. The drivers were crazy but fine. The Autogrills predictable and serving lots of coffee, panini, pastries and selling crap  like pink pigs and old CD’s. We had a little picnic by the   side of the road at an Autogrill. We jumped back into the car and continued on to Aosta. A nice ski town with lots of people out to have fun in the piazza on a Saturday night. Picked  a trattoria for dinner. Good dinner, friendly people .
Next morning had breakfast in the hotel dining room to the accompaniment of the owner playing the piano accordion. Those Italians, you have to love them. He apologised for his playing due to his arthritis.
Then the drive to France via the Mount Blanc tunnel – an engineering feat – and arrived in Macon (where the Tour de France went through this year). We stopped not at an Autogrill but at a lovely French restaurant by a lake eating smoked salmon and trying not to drink wine.
Arrived in Macon and had a walk around the quiet town. It’s rather nice in a restrained French way with lots of white buildings and lace work verandas . Sat for a drinks and waited 1/2 hour for the waiter to decide to visit our table. In Italy we would have already had 2 drinks and known the waiter by name! We walked across the river to a restaurant and after a really lovely dinner where we all had something with a beautiful sauce we spent  the night in a smart hotel where the rooms were very co-ordinated. No kitsch flowers on display.

Next day Steve and I left Peter and Carmel – they headed north and we head across to Amboise in the Loire Valley – to “do chateaux not shops’ quote by Steve. I’ll miss them so much (both the Harrisons and the shops!). We had lots of laughs and survived the two days in the car together.

We arrived to meet Chantal the owner of our little house. It’s gorgeous- located on the river looking towards the huge chateau on the hill. We can walk across the bridge or even ride the bikes left for us.

Had a good nights sleep- medication for my cold kicked in and I was able to breath. Only complaint – the beautiful pink cover – doona was too hot! Small concern really but I love a top sheet not just a doona!
Next morning Stefan headed across the bridge to the best patisserie in Amboise and returned with 2 crossiants and 2 choc filled pastries. I had a corner of 1 and he ate the rest . I kid you not. But as he reminded me he’s only here for 2 weeks I’m here for 3 or is it 4 months so I can’t eat like that every day. He will whilst he is here!

Off to meet Geoff and Lindy Shaw for lunch in Loches. What a lovely thing to do. 

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Family shield painted above the fireplace 

Our Lady of the Wine. The statue not me!

Carmel and I prepared a beautiful Tuscan stew. Now I am our Lady of the Wine!

Checking the olive tree

Breakfast or dinner on the farm.

Carmel and the model at the vintage shop in Siena

Our house almost disappearing behind the vines.

Thursday- Greve in Chianti

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We decided on a slow start and after breakfast had a wander around the property here.
We saw the chickens, roosters, bees, pigs, veggie gardens, grape vines and olive tress and the herb borders along the paths . We picked some sage and rosemary for tonight’s Tuscan stew we are planning to cook.

Around 11 we headed off to the Chianti region about an hours drive  away , south of Florence. Such a pretty drive with the rolling hills, the endless lines of vines laden with grapes and the silver and green olive tress. Tuscany is gorgeous. We had a discussion as we went about where we would buy if we had a million euros. The past few weeks I have been to Lucca, Rome, Umbria , Vento and now Tuscany. Oh to choose. Any suggestions?

We got to the tiny town of Greve , which is not a hill town but does have a very pretty piazza. We wandered around had lunch and the went to a tasting centre. It was such a great idea. You got a glass and a credit card which you loaded with dollars and then you could move around the huge cellar tasting wine.  They were in round centres with the bottle programmed to tip a taste of wine into your glass and deduct the amount . Better wines were about 2 euros a taste and lesser ones around 1 euro. Such a good idea.

I kindly offered to drive home – silly me. We took a different way and only got a little lost. Carmel sat in the front with me and the boys in the back asleep.

We got home and went for an afternoon walk to check out some properties nearby . We even heard some Aussies in a house nearby but didn’t identify ourselves!

Such a lovely evening sitting under the vines having a drink chatting and preparing our Tuscan soup . We have had a lovely time with Peter and Carmel , but I miss all the friends who have been here over the past few weeks. Hi to you all.

Tomorrow is our last day in San Gim before we head to France . Looking forward to a few days with Steve in the Loire Valley before meeting up with Peter and Carmel again in Paris.

Siena

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Today we had another lovely breakfast looking towards the towers of San Gimignano. It is so awesome. We are very lucky to have such a beautiful spot.

The house is located at the end of a gravel drive  and is owned by a family named Montignani. Maris, Antonella, Roberto ( handsome son) and daughter Barbara who runs the business.

It is built using the stone and building materials from a house in northern Tuscany. They took 10 years to build the house and it is gorgeous. The visitors live upstairs and the family down – though you don’t see them much at all.

So we drove to Siena and found a great parking spot and went up the longest  escalators to reach the old town.

The weather was fantastic and the town busy but not overcrowded. Carmel and I walked the main street and did a little shopping. We met the boys for lunch at the Campo and imagined the fun it would be to be there during the Palio. After lunch we went walking and found the best shoes. The  lady there was so knowledgeable about shoes and feet. Carmel and I were in awe. She also told us we had patient husbands as they were waiting outside. She went on to tell us Italian men were not great partners.

We explored the back streets , saw the flags of the different communes, lights to match them, washing hanging across the road.
Peter and Carmel bought a beautiful tapestry. It showed The Kiss! It was really lovely and Steve declared that Pete won the shopping.

We returned home and decided to go to the restaurant Barbara suggested. It was 20 mins away but seemed to take for ever driving through the dark country side. We arrived at Casa Mais  outside Montelione and what a night. It was gorgeous. Atmosphere was just so lovely and the food very Tuscan and beautifully presented. I had a pork dish and loved it. It has a B&B on site so people can stay there . Google Borgo San Benedetto Montelione .

Got home tired but happy . Thank you Steve for driving. 

San Gimignano

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We love this area. It’s beautiful. The rolling hills, the vineyards, the views of San Gim, the food, wine,  the friendly people. 

I have started a new chapter here. I miss my friends rom Rusticolucia – Narelle, Anne, Lindy, Geoff, Jill and Chris. We had a great time there.
Now in this lovely house we are starting a great week.
The Wilsons and the Harrisons have discovered they have many connections through their school days and after, and have shared many a story about people they know.

Sunday night we went to a concert in the town theatre and then had dinner in a very good restaurant . The fact it was pouring with rain made choosing one very easy. we had to be able to run to it. But we enjoyed it very much. I had veal with peppers. YUM. 

The next day we went to Lucca. My home for two weeks. It felt so good to be returning and  showing everyone around. It was a little rainy which was a shame – but we managed to fit in a few sights and a long visit to my favourite shop – Lo Sorelle in the Antiteatro . It has gorgeous tablecloths and other assorted things. Carmel and Jill loved it and between us we bought a few things! Christmas will be great – lots of decorations, etc.

Steve won the shopping! He bought a new briefcase, Shoes, two belts, a toilet bag. Closely followed by Carmel with her tablecloth, woven bag, assorted lovely things. I got shoes, Jill a tablecloth. All in all a great day and lovely lunch at Sergios a little trattoria I had visited at least 3 times when I was in Lucca.

We got back to our house and Barbara has set up the table and then arrived with plate loads of antipasti. six different types – all delicious We washed it down with their own wine and olive oil. This was followed by pasta with a ragu of wild boar. Her gift to us was a cake made by nonna. 

We had a wonderful night of stories, jokes, laughs and friendship.

Tomorrow the girls are visiting San Gim and the boys are doing “farm things”. Steve asked Barbara if they could help with the grape picking. I’m not sure she was overly enthusiastic!