Our last day in Broome was slow and leisurely. Just the way Beach holidays should be.
I started with an early massage in the beautiful spa.
Then it was coffee and a trip to the beach. The last day called for a beach chair and umbrella. We loved it!
We made ourselves comfortable and enjoyed the ocean breeze and the passing parade of swimmers. Beaches are wonderful people watching places.
Photo from every angle in our comfy chair.
We went to Divers Tavern for lunch I swear that is my last chip for the holidays. Why, oh why, does everything come with chips?
Chip Tactics…….1. I try not to eat them at all or 2. try to just have six, or 3. ask to have salad on the side instead……. Today I tried this tactic but my unsmiling service man said ‘ no changes to the menu’. So I went to tactic 2 ! Also, why are chips so yummy?
Our last afternoon was spent pottering around our hotel, a last swim, packing and our last sunset drink. Apparently it’s cold and rainy in Perth where we fly tomorrow.
My blogs have almost trickled to a halt …… it’s so relaxing here and the days have taken on a rhythm of their own.
We thought 5 days here might be too much. It’s not. It’s allowed us to slow down after our dusty days on the Gibb River Road
Our days have been starting with a lovely long walk along the beach followed by a surf in perfect clear blue waters.
A beach shower then coffee back on the deck at our hotel.
Steve has been wanting to go to Matso’s brewery for the whole holiday. Today we went.
It’s ‘in town’ about a 10 minute drive from Cable Beach. We decided to browse the few shops before lunch at Matsos so started at the Short Street Gallery.
This tiny gallery is housed in a very old corrugated iron building. It is home to indigenous art.
As we walked the few streets that make up Chinatown it is the newness of the corrugated iron buildings that stands out. this building material is used for its durability in storms and it’s ease in construction.
There is history here but not in the buildings. When Broome was set up as a pearling town in the 1880’s there were 300 luggers – pearling boats in the Roebuck Bay Area. Most of the people involved in the industry were Japanese. That influence is still seen today.
An abacus in the Main Street. Japanese influence.
Lining the few streets of Chinatown are the big names in the Pearl business.
Cygnet Bay ( where we visited and Steve made a purchase ) Paspaley, Allure, Kallis, Willie Bay – all the big names.
Matsos was calling so we headed to this charming relaxed brewery for its famous mango beer.
Matsos was originally a general store called Matsumoto. Shortened to Matsos it became a cafe then a small brewery. It has grown under the same family and is a popular place to eat and of course drink their mango beer, ginger beer and the ice hot chilli beer.
The grounds are relaxed and fun and incorporates a curry hut and art gallery.
The artists here have painted many silos in country towns around Australia.
Following lunch and a few beers we needed to have a little sleep before our afternoon swim.
Then back to Town Beach for the Staircase to the Moon. Staircase to the Moon is a natural phenomenon which occurs when a full moon rises over the exposed tidal flats of Roebuck Bay. The Staircase to the Moon happens 2 – 3 days a month and dates are published.
Tonight is one of the nights and there are hundreds of people sitting waiting for the moon to appear.
The markets are on and the lines for the food made us pleased we had a big lunch at Matsos.
As the 6.15 time for the moon approached the lights were dimmed.
It seems funny we are waiting for the rising moon and on the other side at Cable beach they have watched the sun set.
Up it came. The staircase appeared on the mudflats and it was stunning.
Don’t miss it when in Broome.
Our night took a funny turn. We returned with Prosecco wine and cheese and played cards on the deck. The Italian music set the mood for a funny night. As we enjoyed the Prosecco the card playing improved. A great fun night.
Pick up at 8.20 and we were on our way to Broom Airlines. Our substitute trip to Horizontal Falls was on.
There were two groups of 4. One being our group the other another 4 from Brisbane.
Our flying mosquito
Our two pilots introduced themselves – Michael and Bayley, a couple of young mavericks who looked like they’d just hurried from bed to be there!
No safety talk. Just a ‘listen carefully if I tell you something’ and out we walked to the plane. Or a mosquito as I referred to it. Tiniest plane I’ve ever been on. And quite old looking. Oh well we trust our Top Gun pilot.
Chris up front with our pilot
And with a quick tuneup we were off and away. It was a beautiful day. Clear blue skies, not a cloud and no wind – perfect.
We all had our headphones on with a little mic to talk to Michael and each other.
The colours below were wonderful
We flew over a crocodile park, a meat works, lots of trees, aboriginal communities.
We continued north over Derby and into Horizontal Falls. Stunning blue waters, the tidal rush between the 10 metre wide rock faces were making a surf like effect. This was where the jet boat hit the rock face.
The twin entrances at Horizontal Falls.
We saw the pontoon and houseboat we were meant to stay on.
Pristine water with pontoon & houseboat
We circled around and around taking in the beauty of this place. So many little islands. This cluster of many islands is known as the Buccaneer Archipelago.
We double backed towards Cygnet Bay. This beautiful area is home to the pearl farm that produces some of the most valuable pearls in the south seas.
We landed at a little red dirt airstrip and were collected in a small bus and taken to the pearl farm for a tour and lunch.
Cygnet Bay Pearl farm began when Dean Brown headed north of Broome in 1948 and started pearling. His son Lyndon Brown was the first non Japanese to culture a pearl.
Now it takes the provenance of each pearl very seriously. They can tell you the location found, size, lustre, blemishes of each pearl. They run a very impressive business.
Our guide Stephen has worked for the company for quite a few years and is passionate about this industry.
He took us through the steps that are needed to have a good pearl. It takes several years of caring for the oysters to help them grow a good pearl.
He opened 3 oysters before he found a pearl.
We then had a lesson in identifying the features of a pearl. Lustre, shape, colour, size, surface. Each one plays a part in the value of a pearl.
We moved into the gallery shop where I took my time to find something that ‘spoke’ ’ to me. Find something? I did. For my 0 birthday later this year. ……… all shall be revealed later.
The shape of the pearl determines its value
We had a lovely lunch in the little restaurant upstairs overlooking the beautiful bay.
View from the restaurant
While Jill and I contemplated a swim – as nice as it looked we decided not to get all wet for our trip back. We decided on a Prosecco instead to celebrate my purchase.
We headed back to the red runaway and in the blink of an eye Michael had us up in the sky.
We followed the coast back and marvelled at the colours and the effect the huge tides have on the coast line and the sand and mangroves.
We flew over two islands with iron ore mining being carried out.
As we headed further south we saw a few campers with their 4 wheel drives. How remote they are. How lucky they are to have these areas to themselves.
The colours of the tidal waters is amazing
We flew over our resort and a few minutes later we landed.
A perfect trip.
Back at Cable Beach we headed to the pool for a swim and a cocktail before our second flying treat for the day. A trip to the local outdoor theatre Sun Cinema an outdoor theatre. Tonight the movie was ……Top Gun: Maverick. What a great movie to finish off our flying adventure.
We sat in canvas deck chairs eating pizza sipping a beer under the clear skies. Twice planes flew overhead – so appropriate to the movie!
I’m getting behind in my blogging do this will be a picture diary of our day.
Up early for a swimUmbrellas are set up on the water’s edgeNippers is on. Big crowd Shoes at the bottom of the stairs. Courthouse Markets. Slowest coffee in the world! Buying a book for our grandsons The Museum tells the Broome storiesSailmaking shed at the museumLunch at the Green Mango Japanese Cemetery. So many lost their lives diving for pearls. Our room at the Cable Beach ResortWalking to the adults only pool Loving this poolEven better with a cocktail in handSunset at Cable BeachHappy at Zander’s restaurant on the beach
I have made packing up after each stop easy . The secret is not too many clothes and keep everything handy on the top of the bag in the same position!
Our last day on the Gibb River Rd and we want to fit as much in as possible.
Talking to other travellers we decided we must detour and visit Windjana Gorge to see the crocodiles and to Dimalurru to visit Tunnel Creek.
Breakfast included making a simple sandwich for lunch as there is nothing between here and Derby. Not a shop or petrol station. Nothing.
As we are packing the car I got chatting to a lady filling her water containers. We compare trips and I told her we are disappointed to be missing our house boat stay at Horizontal Falls because of the jet boat accident.
She shocked me by telling me they were there and her husband was on the boat.
She went on to describe the horrific scene as the boat with many injured people limited back to the pontoon. Many women with fractures in their lower limbs. It sounded awful. No wonder they are not ready to reopen. The staff are all traumatised and needing time off.
We are thankful it wasn’t us on board & the woman I spoke with was always very grateful she didn’t want a jet boat experience that morning.
So off we went – an hour drive back to the Gibb Rd turned toward Derby and the half an hour later turned left to Windjana.
The park is beautiful. The limestone walls so impressive.
The approach to the Gorge is through a small tunnel of limestone walls. it’s like entering a magical world.
Out the other side and a peaceful walk along the river bank keeping an eye on the opposite bank. The crocodiles are lazing and sunning themselves. Lots of them.
About 7 crocs sunning
We walked along for about 15 mins. Such beautiful scenes.
Next stop Tunnel Creek. This place I remember being talked about because of a boy called Jandamarra. He was with his mob when they were captured. He escaped into the tunnel where the creek flows under the limestone hills. It was written as a children’s book years ago.
To get to the tunnels you need to climb and clamber over rocks. They are the most amazing colours: pinks, grey, blue even a greenish look.
Then a wade through water into the tunnels. Quite creepy. We looked out for the red eyes of the resident croc.
Lunch was a simple sandwich outside under the trees. We are so lucky with the weather warm but not too hot.
From here it was a short but fairly boring straight drive into Derby. We were told that it’s not the most exciting place to be and to be sure to lock up well. Didn’t sound too good!
Sunset at Derby pier
We arrived in time to see the town in the afternoon light. Everything looks good bathed in a glowing sky. Then to our hotel the Derby Lodge. Not a lot of good things to say about this hotel. Except pretty ordinary.
We crossed the road to the Spinifex Hotel for dinner and made an early night of it. It was a big day of driving.
In the morning we walked to the local CWA markets, an oasis and spent a very happy hour. Such nice people and the Boab nut coffee was great as were the donuts and the home made slices.
There was music provided by the Rusty Nails, and sitting under the shade of a tree chatting to other travellers was as usual very interesting.
We walked back to get the car and of course we two retired children librarians popped into the library .
A welcoming library in DerbyMark Norval’s art work.
We’d been told to visit Norval Gallery and we are so glad we did. What an interesting story behind Mark Norval the owner. He and wife Mary went to Derby as young teachers and never left. He now has this wonderful art space where local aboriginal people are welcome to come and paint. He travelled to many of the communities along the Gibb River area and taught painting and encouraged painting and it’s really taken off. There are some wonderful people doing great work. Edna Dale and her daughter Petrina Bedord. I bought one I couldn’t resist.
With Edna Dale and my new painting.
We spent a long time chatting to Mark about his life & work in Derby. He is so kind. So understanding of the problems facing the indigenous youth.
He has mentored Edna Dale mother of 7 and her daughter Petrina an up and coming contemporary indigenous artist. Her grandfathers Jack Dale and Paddy Bedford were famous in their field of art. Watch out for her. She paints in a style to reflect stories of Windjana passed down to her.
Petrina was painting in the art shed while we were there. Lovely to watch.
We also bought some decorated boab seed pods – such beautiful work.
We left the gallery and continued on our way to the prison Boab tree. A very sad story about indigenous peoples imprisoned in the tree.
Onto Broome. We have an extra night here as our planned night in a houseboat at Horizontal Falls was cancelled.
Sunsets are spoken about here more than anywhere else – except maybe Santorini! So we set out to find it. After checking into the Oaks at Cable Beach we drove along the coast to the port.
Broome is also famous for its dinosaur footprints. We went dinosaur hunting. It took us to Roebuck Bay.
Notice the rock behind. It has a face! The light was soft and gorgeous
We decided to head to the fishing club for a sundowner. It not well known to tourists. It’s where the locals head. I’d read about it and it turned out to be perfect. Casual and a beautiful setting. One glass of Prosecco led to another led to fish and chips.
Sleeping under canvas is a great experience especially when it’s glamping and everything is set up.
Mt Hart Wilderness Lodge is an hour off the GRR. Lots of creeks to cross as we bump along. Chris prefers to drive as it helps his back to be holding onto the string wheel. At least that’s what he tells us!
Steve sits as co driver and sometimes in the afternoon sleeps on the job.
Breakfast was in the screened dinner area. Very rustic. Cereals and toast. No big fry up!
The chef had prepared a picnic lunch for us to take to Bells Gorge.
Back along the bumpy one hour drive turn back toward Mt Leopold Range. Half an hour later we turn left and head towards Bells Gorge. We pass Silent Grove and keep going.
The car park at Bells is full of dusty 4 wheel drives, vans, small tour buses. One caught our attention yesterday Manning River. It’s a big duel cab full of gear, a motorbike , a generator, various bits of equipment & it’s decorated with finger drawings in the dust. Very carefully done. Today the van is missing. Must be in the caravan park.
We start the track and it didn’t take long to get rocky. We’ve talked to other travelers about Bells. It sounds wonderful but it is described as tricky to get into.
We walked for about 2km into the gorge over rocks with about three water crossings. Little stepping stones across small creeks. We arrive at a series of ponds all swirling towards a ledge which becomes the waterfall. Stunning.
We walk across the sloping rock shelf up the side towards the top to look down on the water fall.
Decision time. Continue on over the pond up a steep set of rocks then over the top and down down down to the sloping rocks leading to the water.
I decided I would risk a slip and damage my arm – recovering from a bad break last Dec. I couldn’t go back to an arm in a sling.
So the others pressed on and I got into the pool closest to the edge if the waterfall. Careful not to go over the edge!
They took it slowly and arrived safely and we waved and took photos and I watched as they swam in the big pool of water towards the waterfall.
Steve, Jill & Chris in the lower pool
I know they were having fun. But so was I, pottering in the pools and watching people crossing over, slipping, helping each other and those returning from the bottom of the falls.
A satisfying afternoon. The others arrived back full of smiles and we walked back through the rocks to the top.
We sat under the trees eating our picnic lunch before heading back to the lodge two hours away.
Washing on, showers, bed rest and finally the bar opened. We were very dry and ready for a game of cards before dinner.
The gong called us and tonight the dinner was chicken and sticky date pudding. Beautifully presented and so tasty. We met the chef. He used to cook for miners but has been here at Mt Hart for seven years. It’s a feature for this place. I hope he stays on.
Yum. Steve’s sticky date pudding.
Our canvas tent called and we headed to bed. It’s slightly cooler tonight so sleeping will be easy.
The morning was still and quiet. The horse riders had left for their jog through the countryside as we were having tea and planning our day.
Today we continue along the road everyone talks about. We’ve heard about the corrugations, the dust, the river crossing.
I think the our drivers Leyland Brothers are excited to get going
We leave and immediately get stuck behind a bus. Oh no more dust. But at the end of the 16 km into El Questro he turned right towards Kunanurra and we turned left towards Derby.
Todays drive us about 5 hours. Not that the distance is great. It’s the dusty bumpy road!
We planned a stop at Ellenbrae Station. The people here have cleverly put on a Devonshire Tea. Yes …….scones, jam and cream on the Gibb River Rd.
The turn off to their property is 5km. Yes 5km of anticipation along a very rough rough road. But then. There it is.
A green oasis is surrounded by red dusty grassy scrub.
The sign welcomes us and we make our way to the shed / cafe open to the lush green gardens scattered with tables and chairs under the trees.
There is plenty to look at as we wait for our Devonshire tea.
We’d love our grandsons here with us on this trip. So many things to do. Crocodile huntings, swimming in gorges, fishing, sandpits, rocks, machinery! Boy heaven.
We bumped along the GRR for another hour or two. Dust, mud holes, river crossings.
The Pentecost River was rocky and the tide was down. The Durack River was small and rocky.
The road into our overnight stay at Mt Elizabeth was both surprising and fun.
Our ensuite cabin was actually old miners donga’s now fitted with air con! Small and stuffy when we entered the aircon went in so we headed to the lush garden to enjoy the last of the afternoon We stayed there while drama unfolded. Jill wanted wifi internet. Not possible unless you pay. That still didn’t work so as Jill claimed she had something she needed to do had been so nice to the hostess Chantelle she whispered’ you can use the owner’s internet but don’t tell anyone and only for a few minutes!’
As it turned out it was lucky. We had an urgent email from our travel agent. Our Horizontal Falls trip and overnight stay on the houseboat is cancelled! There was a bad jet boat accident about a week ago. All trips were cancelled until 10. We were to go on the 11th but now it’s been put off until further We have been offered an extra night in Broome and flight up to Cape Leveque with a visit to the Pearl farm for lunch and a flight over the falls. We’ve taken that but we’re sad as we miss the night on the boat. We didn’t really mind missing the jet boat.
With drama over it’s time for a drink. Lucky we brought some as there is no alcohol on sale here. Time for dinner. It’s a shared table which gave us a chance to meet other travellers. Always a good idea as you meet some interesting people and get some great tips.
Next to us were two men marine engineers from Perth. They had worked in many interesting places overseas. They were on a big trip from aperture across the Nullarbor and then straight up the centre of Australia
.
Dinner was prepared by Patrice. Home style cooking. A big rissole with a green pepper sauce and a bowl of veggies. Delicious. First night I haven’t had fish. Dessert as well. Cream caramel. Needless to say the new managers of Mt Elizabeth Station are former restaurant owners. They are busy preparing the rooms. There are 8 with ensuite and the same with shared bathrooms. The rest is camping.
We went back to our donga to find a frog in the toilet, and the aircon didn’t work. Lucky there was a large window with screens as it would have been too cold with air con on in this small bedroom!
We were initially disappointed but it was clean, friendly with a good meal provided. A fine overnight stay on the Gibb RR. But not a place with waterholes and great walks.
We decided to give ourselves a slow morning after our walk yesterday. So it was a sleep in , breakfast and a little reading on the grass outside our cabin. The early morning horse riders were returning as I sat enjoying my book.
Yesterday Emma Gorge. Today Zebedee Springs. Located an easy 10 mins drive from The Station at EL Questro we headed off at around 10. The early birds go at 7. We’d heard that as it closes at 12 we should go a little later as people start to leave.
Closed in the afternoon.
Good decision. Apparently there were two tour group buses there this morning.
Zebedee is made up of a series of thermal pools. After parking it’s a short 1.5km walk into the springs passing through very tropical Livistona forests.
The rocky pools are a little oasis at the end of the walking trail. A series of pools they are surrounded by palms and vines.
We slipped gently into the pools and made our way to a spot where we’d enjoy a soak in the warm water. It was very shaded and tranquil.
I lay back into the water running over some rocks from a higher pool. It was bubbly. Putting my ears under I could hear the water bubbling and running.
So therapeutic.
Beautiful Zebedee
After 45 minutes of soaking we emerged feeling rested and a little covered in the fibres of the plant life edging the pool. A cold shower would be good but a bottle of cool water poured over my head prepared me for our lunch at the Emma Gorge resort about another 20 minutes away.
Emma Gorge is part of El Questro and although the accommodation is glamping it’s lovely. Everything is just a bit more upmarket than the campgrounds and The Station cabins where we are staying.
Where we are is much more family oriented.
Lunch was delicious and we headed back to The Station for our afternoon naps before another swim in the waterhole just near our cabin.
We just have to do Amelia Gorge and we’ll have covered the A to Z of Gorges.
I have to admit to feeling just a little apprehensive about the Emma Gorge walk. We’ve heard all kinds of reports about it.
My sister did it a few years ago and said it was challenging. Other people we’ve met on our travels made comments ranging from ‘its very difficult’ to ‘take your time and you can do it. ‘
I was only worried about my arm that I broke back in Dec and is still recovering and wouldn’t handle a fall and Steve’s new knee 6 months ago.
But we did it! Nice and slow with lots of scrambling up and over rocks, rock hopping over creeks, and a steady climb.
We left the Emma Gorge resort around 8.30 with plenty of water , a muesli bar and a bag of lollies. We walked through grasslands, started to gently climb and then got to the scrambling stage.
We passed the turquoise waterhole.
The reward was a swim at the falls. It was magnificent. Beautiful clear water, a waterfall that massaged your back if you positioned yourself underneath it correctly and the perfect temperature for cooling.
The walk back wasn’t as bad as we thought. All downhill and hard in the knees but we were quicker than going up.
Perhaps this sign was just for us!
We went straight to the cafe for a delicious iced coffee!
Hair wet with sweat! And a delicious drink
We got back to The Station at El Questro which is about a 25 min drive away and had another swim in the waterhole just near our cabin.
Water not as clear but a beautiful setting.
The afternoon was spent relaxing and reading before our pre dinner gin, a bbq dinner, music and a game of cards before an early night.
Steve and I started the day with a swim. This really is a magic spot. Our little villa was wonderful so feeling rested we walked up the green grassy hill to the pool
On a hill nearby a group of 20 were gently chanting and doing yoga.
Feeling cool and just a little sad to be leaving this beautiful place we headed off towards Argyle Homestead.
This homestead has been rebuilt. It’s the home of the famous Durack family. It’s 5 minutes from Lake Argyle and was relocated because the original site is now underwater. It is now Lake Argyle.
It’s made of stone and is really quite big for a home built on an isolated property so many years ago.
The history of the Durack family is told and what a history it is. Patrick or ‘Patsy’ drove cattle from Queensland taking two and a half years before settling in land in the Ird River area.
We decided we had time to go to Wyndham the very big port right at top of Australia. It became the port all cattle exports left from. We expected a bigger town but it was small with not too much happening.
We started with a view of the town from Five river lockout. S sweeping view of the area showing the effect of an 8 metre tide rise and fall.
W got a few more supplies at the only supermarket in town and a few beers at the bottle shop.
We’d been told the bakery was a must so stopped and had a laugh at the roof decorations.
The woman who owns the bakery is a little pocket rocket who loves a chat as she rushes around clearing plates from those of us who sit inside to enjoy our pies! she’s also a joker teller as he two signs outside the shop declare ‘two wifi engineers got married. The reception was fantastic.
Jill and I shared a crocodile pie and a lemon pepper barramundi pie. Quite delicious and filling.
Two more stops , the first at the huge bronze statues the next at the Afghan cemetery.
These statues are huge and wonderful – the hair is curly wire.
Arriving at El Questro was full of anticipation. It’s 16 from Gibb Rd and crosses several creeks. It’s bumpy, it’s dusty and excitement outside.
It looks like tent city circling around reception, a bar, a few cabins, a cantina food truck and a big grassy relaxing area leading down to some creek ponds. Our swimming pool.
Our station room is next to the restaurant which made me think ‘oh no it will be noisy’. There’s no worry about that. Because
1. Everyone I’m camping areas go to bed early 2. The restaurant is closed. They can’t get enough staff. If anyone reading this can cook I’ve found a job for you.
Enjoyed a grilled Barra a game of 500 and a good sleep.
frans travel tales 