Things to do

Che Day

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Today it was all about Ernesto Guevara. Or Che as he has become.

Our hotel last night was great and we had a lovely breakfast in the dining room. A smooth Alex arrived and gave is the run down on today’s activities.

We were to drive to Santa Clara about an hour away, but before that we visited the town plaza. Around a central garden stand some very grand colonial buildings. They are painted in different pastel colours and have colanades running along them which is handy in the hot sun.

We went into the arts co operative and loved the various arts and crafts. So bright and happy. Cuba certainly is colourful.

Then we tried to climb the building on the edge of the square with a high tower and a look out. Only problem no one arrived at 10 am to open up!

Next up was the theatre. It’s a really lovely building built by a wealthy sugar farmer back in the 1890’s. It’s still used for performance each weekend and us open to view for $5.

Unfortunately it’s been subject to the same decay that so buildings have been in Cuba. There hasn’t been the money to pay for restoration. So even though the whole square is Unesco listed they are in bad condition.

Last stop was the church. Very plain and in need of paint.

Paint can be hard to get apparently. Alex has bought an apartment with his wife and is trying to do it up. He can’t find any paint. He’s got the money but there just aren’t the supplies readily available.

Victor arrived with the bus and we got on for the hour long ride to the Che Guevara memorial. During the hour we watched a documentary on his life. He was certainly charismatic and driven and in the minds of the Cuban people he would be forever young.

In my opinion he seemed attracted not just by the cause and helping people overcome dictators but driven by the adventure.

We visited the museum and the memorial and it was quite moving.

Back in the bus we stopped next for lunch at a hotel. Quite attractive with a large empty pool.

Then it was across the mountains through sugar country to Trinidad.

The forms of transportation are varied – not many private cars, just taxis , tour bus, bikes and horse and cart.

This tower is not a church. It’s a tower that was used for watching slaves.

Until next time. Leave a comment!

sorry if the photos haven’t loaded. V slow internet.

Vinales to Bay of Pigs

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Vinales is a lovely quiet little town where the pace is slow, the people friendly and the food surprisingly good. We were told the food in Cuba was plain and rather ordinary and while it’s not Michelin standard so far it’s been fine.

Lots of rice yes! Last night we went to an eco restaurant on a hill on the outskirts of Vinales. All the food prepared for us was grown or raised on the farm.

We walked in the gardens – vegetable garden beds bursting with healthy plants and looked up at the house with breezy verandas.

The house faced the hills and the sun was just starting to set. It was quite beautiful.

The food started with a plantains and taro crisps & delicious vegetable soup then out came plates of roasted vegetable, chicken thighs, roast pork and shredded beef. Much more than we could eat!

We finished with creme brûlée and mint tea. No wine but we had a pina colada type drink with special herbs in it.

Today we left early, 8am and we knew it was going to be a long day as Alex planned a movie for us on the bus and Victor our driver was wearing a tie. Serious driving today.

We headed back in the direction of Havana and then in the direction of Giron and The Bay of Pigs. To give us some background Alex told us some history of the political life in Cuba including their heroes Fidel Castro, Che Guevara and what led up to the 3 day Bay of Pigs invasion by the Americans in 1961.

For a small country this is a big story. It is strategically placed only 90 miles from Miami and was wanted by Spain, America and Russia. Fidel led the revolution through the Baptista years. The country was crawling with Mafia types, communists and became a socialist country under Castro.

Then there was the ‘special period !’ In the 90’s when life for the Cubans became hard. It was anything but special. They were hard times. People were starving. Alex who is 34 said he remembers it well as there was so little food.

We arrived at the Bay of Pigs and had a swim. It was warm & tropical and lovely after sitting in the bus for several hours.

Next stop was the museum in Giron (passing Australia on the way)

to see the Cuban account of the Bay of Pigs invasion. Such a bad period of time.

We watched a short film and wondered what the American tourists would think.

There was a photo of JFKennedy who inherited the Cuba problem and didn’t seem keen to invade.

The Cubans are very pleased it wasn’t Trump in charge then!

We arrived at Cienfuegos and visited the former Palace. This small city is by the sea and in its former glory would have been lovely. The buildings are colonial style but many are in a state of disrepair.

We enjoyed our pina colada on the roof terrace before checking into the lovely old Union Hotel.

Tomorrow is Che day. All about that romantic political figure Che Guevara.

Wandering in Vinales

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We’re staying in a casa particular. A house owned by a local. We are in a little row of rooms at the back of Maria and her husband very modest house.

It’s a way the locals can make a little money. They set up a little bnb type of thing. Sometimes in their house or as in this case behind it. The owners pay the Government about 100CUC a month and can rent it for around 20-40CUC a night.

So the better ones would rent well.

Vinales is a small town in the Tobacco growing area a few hours from Havana. It’s in a Valley with Jurassic Park style mountains around. It’s popular with young people ( as Cuba is generally) who travel and who like to climb.

Our hosts gave us breakfast on their terrace and were so accommodating. Fruit, omelette & toast.

Then we set off to the Main Street with Alex to meet our local guide.Pero turned out to be a lovely, earnest former English teacher. We set out down one of the side street with Pero stopping every few minutes to point out the fruit trees or the plants growing in the gardens. Pero loves all things botanical.

We continued down the path passing colourful houses , oxen carts and locals riding horses.

We walked along the shaded country road until we reached the tobacco farm.

Pero explained the growing system, the type of leaves , the government control 90% of the crop goes to the Gov for a fairly low price. The farmer keeps the rest which he can the use to produce his own cigars but he can’t label them. So he can’t make too much money no matter how hard he works.

We heard about the drying, stripping, bundling and rolling. We moved into the barn to see leave hanging- for a year.

then into the house to meet Clara

and her husband who rolled us a cigar. What fun.

Then we were taught how to inhale and away we went.

I enjoyed the process as you can see here!

Now I’m recovering before our salsa class this afternoon.

After Salsa it was dinner at an eco restaurant. More later.

Internet hard!

Farewell NOLA. Hello Cuba

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I find a travel day a mixture of boredom and frustration. Today it’s a bit of both.

It’s been smooth. Out of NOLA very early and it all went well. Into the lounge again so that was very welcome.

Then the 1hr flight to Cancun to transit to Havana. We arrived at terminal one, collected our bags then decided to not wait the 1/2 for a free bus to get us to terminal 2. We got a taxi at a $20 rip off cost! He told us we needed terminal 4! We arrived went inside and realised we were at the wrong terminal !

Once again we went out and I’m sure his ‘brother’ was waiting to get us again for another $20! This time we waited for the free shuttle.

So here we sit waiting for our Interjet flight to Havana. Let’s hope it’s smooth and our bags arrive!

Later……..

Our flight was delayed by about 1.5 Hr so we sat around then almost missed getting to the gate. A lovely young Australian guy came looking for us to tell us it was boarding – the board did not indicate boarding had started. It still said ‘delayed!’

Once on board it was a smooth 1 hr flight to Havana. The pilots here all take off in a hurry and land quickly with a bump ( yes there was clapping by appreciative flyers). But we and the luggage made it.

Then a little frustrating moment as our pick up contact from Peregrine tours wasn’t there. No board with our name in it! We waited and waited till s guy from another company said it might be better to take s taxi. So I had to line up to get money out from the atm.

There are two currencies here. The CUC which is more commonly used in tourism and the notes have pictures of buildings and monuments. And the CUP pesos which has pictures of people and is used by the locals particularly in markets and little shops. The trick is to tell the difference!

We took a taxi which took about 30 mins and cost 30 CUC.

We arrived at a large hotel. The Riveria by the water on the Malecon. It was built back in the late 1940’s by a Spanish company. It’s tired looking with large spaces, grand looking staircases, murals on the walls and a damp smell in the corridors and a wet concrete smell in the bedrooms. It adds a certain charm! Of a communist nature.

Our guide Alex is just lovely. Dark and handsome with a twinkle in his eye he will guide us around Cuba for the next 8 days.

He explained what would happen over the next few days whilst we caught up with John & Margaret Brannock and enjoyed our welcome drink.

Then we went off to withdraw some more CUC for our travels and into a restaurant just near the hotel.

We’d heard the food was pretty plain and not so good but I enjoyed my chicken with Cilantro sauce. We all had beer and enjoyed chatting to Alex about life in Havana.

Steve’s sister Marg arrives later tonight and we have an 8.30 start tomorrow.

On the way back to our hotel we posed in front of our first Havana car.

Perfect last day in New Orleans

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I thought we would get a little rest in NOLA after the wedding last week. I was wrong. It’s been all go. There is so much to see and do and we didn’t want to miss anything.

Today started with packing up our lovely air bnb as we move to a hotel in the French Quarter. Our travelling companions (if they’d come!) were to leave today so we had decided we’d pack up and move to a hotel for our very early start today Saturday 5th.

One last walk along Magazine St with a little shopping before lunch at Shaya. I’d been wanting to visit here as all the reviews and recommendations were so good. It’s an Israeli restaurant and it didn’t disappoint.

It’s modern in decor and the food is delicious. Fresh flavours and great ingredients. I loved it.

After we swapped to our new hotel we headed off on a walking tour with local Andrew and just one other walker. It was the music and art tour of the French Quarter. Andrew grew up in a tiny place a few hours from here. He was fun and knowledgeable and kept us interested for well over two hours.

The walk started in the Louis Armstrong park which has dedicated statues and sculptures to its musical residents.

We heard about the famous Satchmo and other musicians as well as the masks of the Mardi Gras and even about the voodoo religion and it’s symbols

We went on through the quarter across Bourbon St and into the artsy Royal St. there are so many galleries here with great examples of southern art styles including folk art and embroidery art.

We met the lovely Isobel from one gallery and her headpiece was itself a work of art.

Reluctantly we finished walking with Andrew and took an Uber to NOMA – the New Orleans Museum of Art. We could have spent ages here – including the Alexander McQueen exhibition but we came to walk through the Sculpture garden.

There are over 60 sculptures all donated by a couple from NOLA. It’s a beautiful garden with several bridges crossing a lake with the sculptures out in the open and hidden in gardens.

I loved this one which shows a stack of people balancing on each other’s shoulders reaching skywards.

And the big blue safety pin.

The ladder to the window ……..

And Barbara Hepworth, whom we had an ADFAS lecture on last year, had a piece on show.

All interesting.

We dashed back to Preservation Hall for another Jazz show. This was in a very old building has traditional jazz players entertaining a small crowd – and to get a seat you book early which I did. Otherwise it’s standing at the back!

The line up outside before each show made me pleased I’d booked online. No photos allowed inside.

Our last stop for the night was to meet two young friends. Logan, who is Jordan’s cousin, is a chef in NOLA. He and his wife couldn’t get to the wedding but was able to meet us for a drink.

We’ve met him once in Brisbane when he was working in Melbourne.

Then Rae arrived. She and her whole family are great friends of Peter. She got a green card in the lottery and now works in NOLA. She’s into vintage fashion and lots of fun.

We gave Logan and Rae our spare tickets to Jazz Fest. One each! Hope they have fun.

So one Rose too many we made our way through Bourbon St. It was really going off and is like a tacky sideshow alley. You certainly see some sights. Not all of them tasteful!

But the police are there to guard.

Our time is Nuawlins is up. It’s been fun and a great place to visit especially during a rather busy Jazz fest or Mardi Gras time.

Jazz Fest Time

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I’ve always wanted to ride on a Yellow school bus. Every since I was a little girl and saw them in tv series and movies. Today it happened. And it took me to Jazz fest.

Come along for the ride.

We pulled up just as music got started around 11. The breeze was blowing, the sun was out and the local jazz lovers were out in force with their chairs, umbrellas, hats, rugs, and coloured beads.

I feel like I did the first time I went to Woodford. Slightly too mainstream!

First stop Gentilly stage with the Alex McMurray big band. Good foot tapping music and a few solo dancers warmed up for the day ahead with a variety of dance moves.

Next stop a change of pace with The Tangiers Combo. A very sexy looking violinist, double bass, clarinet & guitar.

Then on to the biggest arena for the bad boys the Stooges big band. Big attitude. Big sound.

Then it was the Jazz tent and

Jeremy Davenport. A cool dude with a hot trumpet.

Smoking time at the jazz club. Economy’s tent girl singing “Take your time in the sun”

The crowd are mostly over 30. Well actually probably more like over 40. Depends which tent you’re in.

It warm – so the skin is on show and there’s lots of tats and lots hats, sunburn skin, umbrellas and iced drinks and ponytails ( men! )

I’ll try and capture some of the better outfits – some are a treat.

The food stalls are southern style. Plenty of Po boy, catfish, crawfish, gumbo, iced tea, beer, frozen alcoholic cocktails like pina colada’s and Bloody Mary’s. The crowd were getting into it – though I don’t think the Americans drink quite as much as the Aussies.

Lunch for me was a huge bbq turkey wing with….. beans! Steve had a shrimp Po boy.

Next up the kids street band

and back into the tent for the Preservation Band. With a warm up Congo line. I had to resist the temptation to dance along along. Though I did ambush one of the ‘dancers’ –  though he was very sad looking and unimpressed by my request for a photo.

Then back to the Jazz tent for Banu Gibson and her band with special guest Vince Giordano from NY. Apparently they are all really well known trad jazz players. They actually looked more like Doctors! They played a favourite song ‘Baby won’t you please come home.’

Steve got distracted between shows and ended up with a Jazz fest Tshirt before sliding into the Gospel tent for some meaningful music.

Then in the Blues tent the well received ‘The Blind Men of Alabama’.

They may be blind but they can sing and even had someone signing the words to their songs. That was interesting to watch!

But our final two concerts were Lyle Lovett the more country style jazz man ………

Then the big name – Lionel Ritchie. Yes I came all the way to NOLA to see him when he came to the Byron Blues fest.

But there he was singing up a storm with everyone on their feet dancing. It was great.

So that was my day at Jazz Fest. It was so much fun. They love their music here. The crowds were so well behaved and the people here are so friendly.

We made it back to the yellow bus line before Lionel hit the last note.

So it was back to Magazine St to Mahoney’s for a beer and hot dog for Steve and something lighter for me!

Tomorrow’s our last day 😩. But it will be a big one. Lots planned.

Today we have ‘Gone with the Wind’

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Plantations are big here – both in size and reputation. We decided on a Plantation tour and not an alligator tour.

But which house do we visit? I read reviews and decided on Houmas House or the ‘Sugar House’ because it has a big reputation as a great example of a grand home.

I didn’t want to visit one with the slavery story. That is too sad.

We weren’t disappointed. Houmas House is grand and Southern style and the gardens were amazing.

We had an hour bus ride out along the swampy flat land in the direction of Baton Rouge. The driver was a super speedy guy – definitely the stunt driver from the movie Speed!

Arriving at the house was underwhelming at first as there is now an aluminium plant nearby with chimney stacks and smoke!

But pulling into the drive was like stepping back in time. All the attendants wear period costumes and the grounds are heavenly.

There were many sculptures in the garden both playful and decorative. So much money!

We heard the story of the building of the plantation. It’s named after the local Indian tribe. It was mainly a sugar plantation with 1,000 slaves working there. It made a fortune for its owner. It sold after the civil war for $1.5 million. That’s a lot of money for back then.

Our guide Susan took us through the house and had lots of stories. It’s a pity she spoke so fast ! Hard to follow her.

The present owner lives there in two rooms and is up and out each morning before the house opens. He’s not married but loves his dogs. Apart from close friends people don’t know who the owner of the house is or what he looks like.

Another heart thumping trip back to NOLA for a short rest before we went off to dinner. Now that’s a whole other story.

A Sunday Walk in Barcelona

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The holiday is almost over – Berti, Cleo and Demi left at 4.30 this morning to fly back to Italy and Fabio has gone on with the Royal Princess to Fort Lauderdale, where it’s relocating to do the Caribbean cruise circuit.

Marg, Vashti, Jez  and the children are heading out to Park Guell and although I love that park,  we decided to walk the streets of Barcelona. The weather is gorgeous so we headed off about 10am and the streets were so quiet. The party obviously didn’t end until the early hours and everyone is sleeping in. And we thought we were late!

We walked up Passeig de Gracia and came to one of my favourite Gaudi houses. Casa Batilo


Other tourists were hitting the streets and a small queue was forming at Casa Batilo’s ticket office.

One thing I have learned this trip is to pre book everything! If you don’t then you won’t get in. The La Sagrada Familia  is fully booked today ( I tried yesterday to book online) so we will only be walking around it’s magnificence today.


We continued along the wide Passeig, Boulevard style road with its trees giving a dappled appearance to the already decorative buildings. Then we came to La Pedrera, Casa Mila. Another famous Gaudi building.

The detail in the iron work is amazing.


From here we strolled along letting our feet take us in the direction of La Sagrada Familia. Sundays are wonderful for strolling in a big city.


There are lots of little parks running down the middle of the wide streets. The locals love them. Living in apartments they must be keen to get outdoors and these parks are like their backyard.

I remember Rob said he often went and sat in the parks , using the free internet (yes there’s lots of free internet in these big cities) and practising his Spanish on the locals.


I loved this statue. It’s seems everyone likes a gelato!


I love these doors –  now an entrance to that underpriced fashion temple!

And then,  suddenly there it was. The most famous building in Barcelona – if not all of Europe.

I love it for its boldness, its bravery, it’s quirkiness. What a vision. But it probably will never be finished because then they’ll have to stop charging people to enter – it will be a working church.


Since my last visit about 7 years ago it’s grown and changed so I wonder what another few years will bring. Some sections look like they could already do with a clean.

Then when you glance across the road the buildings are so plain. That’s the way Gaudi wanted it I believe.


The flags of Catalunya are out in support. There was a huge peaceful demonstration yesterday. It’s proving to be a big issue for the government today. So, every country has its issues.

We continued on and walked back zig-zagging streets until we reached the big old Cathedral. And found a big party. A food festival. Bands played. People danced. And ate and drank wine. The chatting and laughter was infectious.

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What a party.

We made our way towards Santa Maria del Mare a large Gothic style church- an area we stayed in years ago with Pete, Clare and Helen. We stopped to rest and have some tapas at Tallers. It has great tapas and we tried a variety of really delicious dishes. With a little Sangria Tinto.


With renewed energy we continued walking near the Picasso museum and discovered it was a day called The Big Draw. I thought it was a raffle but it was areas of tables set up encouraging everyone to draw. It was fantastic to watch.


Parents were there with their kids drawing , in between drinking wine and eating.


The old masters, Miro, Picasso and Dali  looked on.

Miro, Picasso and Dali

Then we made our way back to the hotel, stopping for a gelato on the way.

El Born market place. Now home to creative projects

A street garden in the middle of a street!

Sunday at the local looks fun

Perfect day for a stroll

Perhaps JORDAN needs a flower girl for her wedding?

Cameras around the city hall building waiting for some ‘news’

Feeling thirsty? No need to worry. There’s always a tap available.

And so our Sunday walk ended.

Then we had a rest and on the TV we found the Spanish love to build body towers. It was scary to watch children climb to the top.

You’ve got to love the spirit of the Spanish.

Hotel: http://www.mobile.hotel-lleo.com

 

Don’t fall!

 

Barcelona. A favourite 

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Today we disembarked at Barcelona – this beautiful city that was home to Rob for 5 seasons of waterpolo.
It’s lovely to be back. The buildings are amazing. The weather fantastic and the food. Yum.

So far we haven’t done too much. The children chased the pidgeons in Placa De Catalunya whilst we waited to get into our hotel.


Then lunch in a nearby tapas bar before a walk to my favourite food markets.


Now we’re at the Hotel Lleo a rather nice modern hotel chosen by Berti. Great wifi! And a pool for the kids.


Tonight a vegetarian tapas bar!

Barcelona I ❤️you. Despite there being warnings to stay away from La Rambla tonight as there is another protest over the proposed Catalan separation.


Tomorrow la Sagrada.