Travelling by train can be quite relaxing and it was great leaving the car in Stamford for the 45 minute fast train to NYC.
We arrived at Penn Station and walked 2 blocks to our hotel the Holiday Inn. It’s not the best area – pretty unexceptional street but handy and good for a night.
We came back a day early and our hotel near the Chelsea Markets didn’t have a spare room!
We got ready for our dinner with Rob & Jordan and took off in the Red Line 1 for Wall Street and Manhatta restaurant.
The view, the food, the atmosphere and the restaurant itself. It has a $80 a head, 3 course set menu. If you pair with wines add $58, or choose from a well-selected, well-priced wine menu. There are about 5 choices in each course. They give generous breads with pate to start and 2 lovely chocolates at the end.
So you know what you are going to be paying. And it’s all delicious. And NO tipping! In NY that’s amazing. They practically chase you down for tips here. But this restaurant has a no-tipping policy and the staff couldn’t be nicer.
It was lovely spending time with the kids.
We started with drinks and admired the view. You can see Rob’s office from here. Right on Wall Street. See the arrow in the photo pointing at it.
It was a great night and even the subway trip home was entertaining!
Despite the cool. Despite the rain – we decided we love Boston.
It’s easy to get around. It’s a great walking city. There’s lots to see and the food is great.
This morning, we had coffee, did our washing and headed off. First a visit to Faneuil Hall. What a great market place for food. The fresh food markets are nearby and the cooked prepared foods are inside.
We jumped in an Uber and were at Harvard Sq by 10.30. Our guide Mike was quite the performer. In fact half way through the tour he told us in was in a drag show that night.
He was a good fun guide and kept the large group informed and moving along.
We heard lots of stories about how Harvard got its name, how women were not admitted until the 90’s. Women studied at Radcliffe. Now it is coeducational and women are dominating the numbers. We heard about living in the houses. 90% live on campus.
We heard about the buildings. They are grand and lovely.
One of the houses for students. JFK lived here.
The Library in particular is stunning and built with money donated.
Unfortunately you have to be a student to enter but Mike told us to visit the Boston Public Library as it had a reading room identical to that at Harvard.
After the tour we visited the Harvard Art Gallery. It’s a very good collection. Much has been donated by past students.
Georgia O’Keeffe
Man Ray. I thought he only did photography!
Now it was time for a good piece of American history. We went out to the JFK Museum. It’s a very grand structure about 20 mins from the city centre facing the Boston Harbour.
An orchestra performed in the atrium.
Lots of film clips if JFKs speeches. He was charismatic.
Beautiful rooms with memorabilia of the times
Then it was back to the city to the Boston Public Library. What a wonderful building. Old at the front and linked with a courtyard to a new serviceable part at the back.
The old………
And the new
We walked back to North End past
Trinity Church
The Boston Common with a Japanese festival!
Through the theatre district, Faneuil Hall and straight to the Oyster Company. It was at this stage my phone died so no pictures ! 😢
But I can describe the big succulent plump oysters, the Prosecco to give them life, and the smart jokes from the oyster shuckers as we sat at the round oyster bar chatting to a lovely couple from New Hampshire. These Americans are so friendly.
We called into book a table at one of the many good Italian restaurants in North End. Tonight it was ‘Strega’. Steve was over the moon with his veal chop stuffed with prosciutto. I loved my risotto de mare. again!
We finished with a limoncello and planned our trip tomorrow.
If in Boston put this on your list. It’s great. We downloaded the notes and decided to tour ourselves. There are walking tours but you don’t need to do that.
We set off all rugged up and decided, as our apartment is in the middle of the trail, we’d start from our place and reverse the order! Made sense to us.
We stopped at the first State House.
A great place to start the story of Boston. We did a tour and our lovely young ‘education officer’ spoke at a rapid pace so we had lots to take in!
By now the rain had stopped so we wandered along with the other walkers of the trail coming the opposite way towards us!
There are some great public statues including these in the Irish Square.
I really enjoyed the Granary Burial Ground where many of the key figures of the Revolution are buried including Paul Revere, Samual Adams, John Hopkins are all resting in peace.
I also liked the footpath game of hopscotch outside the first school.
Kings Chapel was lovely. Designed by architect Peter Harrison – no, not our friend Peter!
The new State House stands proudly above The Common.
It’s beautiful. Completed in 1798 it’s dome was done in copper by Paul Revere! He was a coppersmith. It was overlaid with gold leaf.
Today there was a crowd outside the house and names were being read out. Lots of names. All had died through workplace fatalities over the years. Quite moving in its simplicity.
We walked through the Common, a really lovely public space with a big history and loved seeing the squirrels!
This park would be lovely on a sunny day. By now we had reached the beginning of the Freedom Trail. but for us it was only half done. It was time for lunch. We headed across to Beacon Hill. This area is a gentile place to walk.
Spring plantings are everywhere. It’s a pity it doesn’t feel Spring-like today!
We found a warm place for lunch. Soup for me and a Reuben sandwich for Steve.
I remembered great bookshops from years ago when I visited with my sister but the one in this area had gone, so I found another in nearby Newbury St. ‘Just a short walk’ I told Steve! Well it was the other end of a very long street. A very interesting long street with lots of shops – mostly big names operating out of lovely old brownstone houses.
We rewarded ourselves with a hot chocolate for Steve and a latte for me but we were surprised by the things you could add to your hot drinks. We decided on CBD. Read about it here!
I wonder if my aches and pains will go.
We still had a lot of walking to do.
To mix it up a bit we got an Uber to the end of the trail and decided to walk it backwards.
Now Jo Jo, our larger than life very friendly driver was all chatty. She was into food, so we got a good run down on where to eat.
We ended up at Bunker Hill and the museum. Really interesting.
We kept on walking despite the chill and the rain and ducked into a church as it looked so interesting.
Low and behold a father and his daughter – the bride! – were inside the door waiting for the music to make an entrance.
They encouraged us in but we hovered in the foyer till she had made her entrance.
She looked beautiful and it took me back (and made me teary) because at about this time last year, on a Friday, Rob and Jordan got married in Santa Barbara. The date is actually tomorrow but it was a Friday. Fortunately they had beautiful Spring weather with blue skies.
We blew out into the street again and walked across the bridge back into the city.
It was soooooo cold.
We finished the walk. It was so interesting. Now we’re tucked up in our apartment drinking a glass of red bought across the street at a lovely wine shop.
We’ll stumble out for dinner a little later.
Tomorrow more walking. We’re off to Harvard for a tour.
Our night in Newburyport was very comfortable. They know how to do hospitality here. The place was Essex St Inn and was lovely.
We headed off for a drive to nearby Plum Island. Not as grand as yesterday’s Castle Island – it’s more a beach place. Houses – both big and small – are built right onto the sand.
With the faded timber fences it feels quite dreamy. The houses go along the coast for a km or two but there were no places to even stop for a coffee. Maybe in summer there are pop-up food trucks? Nothing this time of year.
We drove back to town past the airport with a few light private planes sitting waiting. Presumably for their wealthy owners to take them for a spin.
Once again I googled at the houses and churches.
And the pretty Main Street. All shops and businesses have Help Wanted signs out. Getting ready for the summer I think.
We headed off for Concord an important town in the history of the US. The Battle of North Bridge involving the 700 local militia and the 400 hundred strong British. The ‘Minute Men’ – as the locals were called as they were ready to serve at a minutes notice – fired the “shot that was heard around the world”. They pushed the British back to Boston where they retreated.
There is a fine sculpture in the park of a Minute Man. Hand on gun. Hand on plough. Showing he was a farmer ready to fight for freedom – at a minutes notice. We saw where some of the action took place. It’s a beautiful spot now.
But for the absolute highlight for me of this area was visiting Louisa May Alcott’s Orchard house! Yes, Jo, from Little Women.
I’ve always loved that story and had recently watched yet another version – the one with Emma Stone.
Well here is the house!
And the Chapel her father built.
We did a tour of the house. It’s in original condition inside. So no photos. But we saw where Louisa – Jo wrote the novel Little Women! We saw where May (Amy in the book) did her art. There are original drawings on the walls, paintings and sculptures. Books, games artefacts. I was fascinated. There were pictures of the girls and Marmee and Papee on the walls.
And the weather has warmed. Such a beautiful experience. Our guide was like someone out of the tv show. She was just so sweet!
She also told us the real facts of the family. Some things in the book were true. Others changed. Louisa, unlike Jo in the book, never married.
The morning was so foggy we put off viewing the lighthouses and instead headed north to Freeport.
I had told Steve about visiting LLBean the huge outdoorsy store and thought he should see it.
It’s amazing. Three huge barns devoted to everything you could need for being outdoors – or even indoors!
Freeport is a 20 minute drive north of Portland and is such a pretty, well kept place. It’s also an outlet centre. Lots of nice shops selling genuinely reduced clothes. Perfect for a short visit on a rainy morning.
We bought a few things. Steve’s keen on the Ralph Lauren polo shirts and I got some things in J Crew.
We headed back to the lighthouses of Portland. If you were here in warm weather you’d take a boat tour to view them but we drove ourselves.
There are two just south of Portland.
This little cute one shrouded in fog.
But I also enjoyed the houses in the area.
The next lighthouse was viewed through the artists frame.
We continued meandering down the coast stopping a few times. these ‘beach shacks ‘ are hardly shack like!!
Kennebunkport is a lovely seaside town.
And the white churches – and there are many – stand proudly on every corner.
Castle Island near Portsmouth was particularly lovely. There must be some wealthy people living here! The houses were gorgeous.
I’ve noticed people like wreaths on their front door. But they must have a wreath for each season. These ones are all about Spring flowers.
One house had an historic cemetery as part of its garden.
We passed many beaches and tried to picture them with the summer crowds.
Our final stop for the night was Newburyport. It’s a really lovely place.
We explored the streets and once again I loved the houses and the High School.
It’s just like in the movies!
Once again the churches are beautiful and the cemetery had a perfect section for us as it is Anzac Day in Australia. Here the people always honour their military.
We found a lovely BnB and made our way to the riverside for a walk before dinner. There are rows of benches for sitting all with plaques on them remembering someone loved. What a great idea.
There were some great shops particularly of a nautical theme but the Odds & Ends one above was a favourite. Look carefully at the odds and ends arranged so well!
We had a lighter dinner and an early night. These lovely ports are not jumping at night this time of year!
Last night we had a fun night at Modavi in old Montreal. The food was good, the wine delicious, the live music great (after we asked to be moved away from it) and the waiter friendly though somewhat disappointed in my tip. I thought it generous – he obviously didn’t!
What do you tip when eating out? It’s stand practice here to start with 15% and work up! In Australia, where the wages are higher, tipping happens, often generously if the service is great, but not to the amounts that are expected here!
We woke to Easter Sunday bells ringing from Notre Dame Cathedral and sunshine outside our windows. What a gift.
We headed off to explore other areas of Montreal. We took an Uber to Fairmont Bagels. THE place to get your perfect bagel. It’s in Mile End, an arty, hip area to visit in Montreal.
We joined the queue and ordered our bagels and a tub of cream cheese, then we walked two blocks to Cafe Olympia where we joined another queue for coffee, then sat outside in the SUN and spread cream cheese on our bagels and enjoyed with hot coffee. It was so good.
We joined other church goers and went to the “modest suburban” church opposite for a part of their Easter Mass – in Polish.
Then we walked towards Mont Royal. The day was fine , the sun shining and lots of others had the same idea. It was like a pilgrimage to the top. And up we went – taking the path less travelled as son Rob likes a challenge- not to mention a short cut. And it was beautiful.
We made it to the top, stripping off layers as we walked – and the view was great!
It was wonderful being with Rob and Jordan and to be celebrating Easter. It’s also almost one year since their wedding in Santa Barbara. How time flies.
We headed back down the mountain and once again took a cross country route.
We crossed a running stream – the snow us melting.
Fortunately I have a strong son who helped me on the steep parts.
We made it ! and walked through the street looking for a lunch place.
We passed a squirrel and the Grey Nuns House which is now part of Concordia University.
Lunch was a well deserved beer and a salad and Poutine!
Another Church stop
Some sculptures – we still were walking !
Back to old Montreal past Notre Dame and back to our apartment.
A short rest, legs up ! We walked many kilometres!
Then to a wonderful restaurant down behind the Cathedral. Jordan picked it on recommendation from friends. It was behind an unmarked door.
Delicious food and wine & great company are the best ingredients. And the waiter was happy at the end of the meal!
We walked back through the streets and enjoyed the cities initiative on bringing history alive. Images projected onto walls each one telling a story. Absolutely beautiful.
Back past Notre-Dame to our home away from home.
Tomorrow the kids leave us. Back to work in New York and we get a car and head for Woodstock in Vermont.
Fortunately the weather Gods are with us and Rob & Jordan are on their way from New York.
It will be fine timing but we’ll make our 11am walking your. Luckily it starts just 2 minutes away outside Notre-Dame Cathedral.
We got George as our guide. He’s local, older and very knowledgeable about the area.
We started inside the Cathedral which we hadn’t entered as yet.
It’s beautiful.
It’s gothic on the outside and French inside with its blue ceilings with stars. It was originally built in 1672 it became too small so was enlarged and rebuilt in 1830’s.
George gave a very good tour of the Cathedral and included that it’s famous for Pierre Trudeau’s funeral and Celine Dion’s wedding!
The tour continued through the streets of the old town past some of the buildings Steve and I had seen on our own walk yesterday. I had time to notice a few of the smaller finer details. The chattering ladies sculpture, the iron crosses and the flags, Montreal, Quebec and Canada.
We finished the tour near the Marché and decided it was lunch time. Poutine was selected as it is local, warm and filling!
By now it was not raining and not quite as cool – after eating and a very good hot chocolate and coffee mochas from Cacao70. Apparently the best in the city!
So we continued exploring before heading back to the apartment for a little rest!
It’s now almost 8.30 which means time to go out for dinner.
We woke to brilliant blue skies which was sure to put a spring into our step.
Steve was keen to walk the Plains of Abraham after yesterday’s history lesson. I wasn’t as keen to walk through the snow! My Frankie4 boots are good but I didn’t want to slip and slide as the snow is hard and slippery.
I decided to visit the Morrin Library and the city public Bibliotheca. I’d also spotted a good book shop I wanted to browse. It had a magnificent glass ceiling.
So Steve headed off on his adventures and I on mine. Sometimes when travelling together we follow our own interests and when we meet up have lots to share.
I walked back along some of the streets we discovered yesterday. But with the blue skies and no wind it felt completely different.
I arrived at Morrin House – the site of the first jail, to find it didn’t open until midday.
That left me time to explore the Bibliotheca nearby , the bookstore, Simons, a department store and have coffee laced with clover flower essence. Delicious.
Steve, the explorer, met me for an early lunch time at a crepe restaurant. Then we took the funicular down to the port. It’s lovely there – quite touristy near the funicular but then interesting to walk further afield around the streets of the port. Lots of little galleries and antique shops.
We finished by walking back up the steep winding road and headed for the Morrin House. No tours but we went into the Library and the lovely man there – a volunteer, gave us quite a good overview of the history of the house. http://www.morrin.org/en/
It’s a centre for historical and cultural purposes and has a large beautiful library – an English speaking Library. All the books are in English. The language here in Quebec is absolutely French. Quebec city is a place where the French and English languages and cultures live together.
I noticed a sign saying ‘ the weather is cold and snowy, stay and curl up with a book’ What great advice and if I lived in Quebec this is where you’d find me!
I noticed a cutting from a Writers Festival they had there a few years ago. Louise Penny, a local , wrote a book set in this very library. So I just had to buy it. Has anyone read it? Will keep you posted.
They had a good children’s section
We spent some time chatting before heading off in the beautiful afternoon light stopping for a drink at the red roofed hotel near the Chateau.
We rested up and packed before a sit in the cocktail bar watching the afternoon light play on the tin roofs across the river.
A walk through the town to admire the lights before a delicious dinner at Boulay. A really lovely restaurant.
It was a pity out lovely day was finished by involuntarily listening to the American couple in the room next door arguing – shouting insults at each other at 11pm isn’t good for anyone.
I was tempted to knock on the adjoining wall but thought perhaps I might cop a mouthful for my trouble.
Hopefully we don’t wake them when we get up early to get to the station for an early train to Montreal.
The afternoon was spent visiting the Museum of the Plains of Abraham – about the French English Seven Years War.
The battle was fought on some land (owned by Abraham Mary) outside the walls of the old city. Quebec is the only city in Canada with a fortress wall.
We walked up Rue St Louis and out the old city gates to get to the museum. It was well set out with interactive displays and a film showing both sides of the fighting. The war went on for seven years and must have been so hard in the weather they experience here.
After our visit we went to the Inox brewery nearby for a local beer. We walked by some houses needing snow removal from their steps.
My beer had a secret ingredient. Maple syrup! It wasn’t bad at all.
We got talking to the young barmaid and found out she likes to surf! In Canada she needs a very thick wet suit. No surprise there. The brewery had a dart board that works electronically. They don’t allow regular darts boards as they are too dangerous and people were being injured by darts 😱and I though Australia was a bit of a Nanny Nation.
It’s always a good idea to leave time for a little R & R before dinner so back to the beautiful bed before leaving for the restaurant La Buche. We had visited it today as part of our food tour but coincidentally that morning had already booked it for dinner. It’s a Québécois style restaurant. We got talking to the waiter who remembered us and pointed out a few favourite dishes. We decided on something light!
Steve had the local ‘second favourite dish after Poutine’ – the Mac n’ cheese with bacon and sausage. It looked small but was so filling. I had a small serve of fresh salmon with hazelnuts, apple and dill with a high pile of fresh salad green. Yum!
The restaurant is decorated in local Québécois style but it the downstairs bathroom that provides the biggest surprise. Our guide Sam from the food tour told us not to miss it!
With good reason. It’s unlike any other bathroom I have seen ( except perhaps one from Beijing years ago!)
I was still a little full from my chicken salad at lunch – it also may be from the beer at Montauk brewery.
Do you ever get to the stage in holidays where you just can’t decide what to eat when you are always in restaurants? Well it’s day two and I already feel that way! I’ll have to get over that. We’ve got three weeks of eating out! I have to pace myself.
So the girls – Jordan, Lisa and I ordered a few plates to share. Octopus with a touch of pork belly , burrata and grilled artichokes. Followed by a small shared pizza it was perfect.
We took a lovely Sunday morning stroll around the streets of Sag Harbor. It was clear weather and so quiet. The houses are lovely. Such distinctive Hamptons style.
The gardens have wrapped their shrubs to protect them from winter frosts. It looks like they have their pjs on!
There are many impressive buildings and churches in this lovely town.
I popped into the Catholic Church as the congregation were arriving. They were so well dressed! It’s Palm Sunday.
We continued down the street past the old clock and the Spring flowers.
We decided on a Mexican place for brunch and had a short wait for a table so sat in the large garden.
We continued meandering down the coast stopping a few times. 
these ‘beach shacks ‘ are hardly shack like!!
One house had an historic cemetery as part of its garden.
I decided to visit the Morrin Library and the city public Bibliotheca. I’d also spotted a good book shop I wanted to browse. It had a magnificent glass ceiling.
frans travel tales 