Travel Hints

Vinales to Bay of Pigs

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Vinales is a lovely quiet little town where the pace is slow, the people friendly and the food surprisingly good. We were told the food in Cuba was plain and rather ordinary and while it’s not Michelin standard so far it’s been fine.

Lots of rice yes! Last night we went to an eco restaurant on a hill on the outskirts of Vinales. All the food prepared for us was grown or raised on the farm.

We walked in the gardens – vegetable garden beds bursting with healthy plants and looked up at the house with breezy verandas.

The house faced the hills and the sun was just starting to set. It was quite beautiful.

The food started with a plantains and taro crisps & delicious vegetable soup then out came plates of roasted vegetable, chicken thighs, roast pork and shredded beef. Much more than we could eat!

We finished with creme brûlée and mint tea. No wine but we had a pina colada type drink with special herbs in it.

Today we left early, 8am and we knew it was going to be a long day as Alex planned a movie for us on the bus and Victor our driver was wearing a tie. Serious driving today.

We headed back in the direction of Havana and then in the direction of Giron and The Bay of Pigs. To give us some background Alex told us some history of the political life in Cuba including their heroes Fidel Castro, Che Guevara and what led up to the 3 day Bay of Pigs invasion by the Americans in 1961.

For a small country this is a big story. It is strategically placed only 90 miles from Miami and was wanted by Spain, America and Russia. Fidel led the revolution through the Baptista years. The country was crawling with Mafia types, communists and became a socialist country under Castro.

Then there was the ‘special period !’ In the 90’s when life for the Cubans became hard. It was anything but special. They were hard times. People were starving. Alex who is 34 said he remembers it well as there was so little food.

We arrived at the Bay of Pigs and had a swim. It was warm & tropical and lovely after sitting in the bus for several hours.

Next stop was the museum in Giron (passing Australia on the way)

to see the Cuban account of the Bay of Pigs invasion. Such a bad period of time.

We watched a short film and wondered what the American tourists would think.

There was a photo of JFKennedy who inherited the Cuba problem and didn’t seem keen to invade.

The Cubans are very pleased it wasn’t Trump in charge then!

We arrived at Cienfuegos and visited the former Palace. This small city is by the sea and in its former glory would have been lovely. The buildings are colonial style but many are in a state of disrepair.

We enjoyed our pina colada on the roof terrace before checking into the lovely old Union Hotel.

Tomorrow is Che day. All about that romantic political figure Che Guevara.

Wandering in Vinales

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We’re staying in a casa particular. A house owned by a local. We are in a little row of rooms at the back of Maria and her husband very modest house.

It’s a way the locals can make a little money. They set up a little bnb type of thing. Sometimes in their house or as in this case behind it. The owners pay the Government about 100CUC a month and can rent it for around 20-40CUC a night.

So the better ones would rent well.

Vinales is a small town in the Tobacco growing area a few hours from Havana. It’s in a Valley with Jurassic Park style mountains around. It’s popular with young people ( as Cuba is generally) who travel and who like to climb.

Our hosts gave us breakfast on their terrace and were so accommodating. Fruit, omelette & toast.

Then we set off to the Main Street with Alex to meet our local guide.Pero turned out to be a lovely, earnest former English teacher. We set out down one of the side street with Pero stopping every few minutes to point out the fruit trees or the plants growing in the gardens. Pero loves all things botanical.

We continued down the path passing colourful houses , oxen carts and locals riding horses.

We walked along the shaded country road until we reached the tobacco farm.

Pero explained the growing system, the type of leaves , the government control 90% of the crop goes to the Gov for a fairly low price. The farmer keeps the rest which he can the use to produce his own cigars but he can’t label them. So he can’t make too much money no matter how hard he works.

We heard about the drying, stripping, bundling and rolling. We moved into the barn to see leave hanging- for a year.

then into the house to meet Clara

and her husband who rolled us a cigar. What fun.

Then we were taught how to inhale and away we went.

I enjoyed the process as you can see here!

Now I’m recovering before our salsa class this afternoon.

After Salsa it was dinner at an eco restaurant. More later.

Internet hard!

Farewell NOLA. Hello Cuba

/ brisbanefrannie / 3 Comments

I find a travel day a mixture of boredom and frustration. Today it’s a bit of both.

It’s been smooth. Out of NOLA very early and it all went well. Into the lounge again so that was very welcome.

Then the 1hr flight to Cancun to transit to Havana. We arrived at terminal one, collected our bags then decided to not wait the 1/2 for a free bus to get us to terminal 2. We got a taxi at a $20 rip off cost! He told us we needed terminal 4! We arrived went inside and realised we were at the wrong terminal !

Once again we went out and I’m sure his ‘brother’ was waiting to get us again for another $20! This time we waited for the free shuttle.

So here we sit waiting for our Interjet flight to Havana. Let’s hope it’s smooth and our bags arrive!

Later……..

Our flight was delayed by about 1.5 Hr so we sat around then almost missed getting to the gate. A lovely young Australian guy came looking for us to tell us it was boarding – the board did not indicate boarding had started. It still said ‘delayed!’

Once on board it was a smooth 1 hr flight to Havana. The pilots here all take off in a hurry and land quickly with a bump ( yes there was clapping by appreciative flyers). But we and the luggage made it.

Then a little frustrating moment as our pick up contact from Peregrine tours wasn’t there. No board with our name in it! We waited and waited till s guy from another company said it might be better to take s taxi. So I had to line up to get money out from the atm.

There are two currencies here. The CUC which is more commonly used in tourism and the notes have pictures of buildings and monuments. And the CUP pesos which has pictures of people and is used by the locals particularly in markets and little shops. The trick is to tell the difference!

We took a taxi which took about 30 mins and cost 30 CUC.

We arrived at a large hotel. The Riveria by the water on the Malecon. It was built back in the late 1940’s by a Spanish company. It’s tired looking with large spaces, grand looking staircases, murals on the walls and a damp smell in the corridors and a wet concrete smell in the bedrooms. It adds a certain charm! Of a communist nature.

Our guide Alex is just lovely. Dark and handsome with a twinkle in his eye he will guide us around Cuba for the next 8 days.

He explained what would happen over the next few days whilst we caught up with John & Margaret Brannock and enjoyed our welcome drink.

Then we went off to withdraw some more CUC for our travels and into a restaurant just near the hotel.

We’d heard the food was pretty plain and not so good but I enjoyed my chicken with Cilantro sauce. We all had beer and enjoyed chatting to Alex about life in Havana.

Steve’s sister Marg arrives later tonight and we have an 8.30 start tomorrow.

On the way back to our hotel we posed in front of our first Havana car.

Perfect last day in New Orleans

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I thought we would get a little rest in NOLA after the wedding last week. I was wrong. It’s been all go. There is so much to see and do and we didn’t want to miss anything.

Today started with packing up our lovely air bnb as we move to a hotel in the French Quarter. Our travelling companions (if they’d come!) were to leave today so we had decided we’d pack up and move to a hotel for our very early start today Saturday 5th.

One last walk along Magazine St with a little shopping before lunch at Shaya. I’d been wanting to visit here as all the reviews and recommendations were so good. It’s an Israeli restaurant and it didn’t disappoint.

It’s modern in decor and the food is delicious. Fresh flavours and great ingredients. I loved it.

After we swapped to our new hotel we headed off on a walking tour with local Andrew and just one other walker. It was the music and art tour of the French Quarter. Andrew grew up in a tiny place a few hours from here. He was fun and knowledgeable and kept us interested for well over two hours.

The walk started in the Louis Armstrong park which has dedicated statues and sculptures to its musical residents.

We heard about the famous Satchmo and other musicians as well as the masks of the Mardi Gras and even about the voodoo religion and it’s symbols

We went on through the quarter across Bourbon St and into the artsy Royal St. there are so many galleries here with great examples of southern art styles including folk art and embroidery art.

We met the lovely Isobel from one gallery and her headpiece was itself a work of art.

Reluctantly we finished walking with Andrew and took an Uber to NOMA – the New Orleans Museum of Art. We could have spent ages here – including the Alexander McQueen exhibition but we came to walk through the Sculpture garden.

There are over 60 sculptures all donated by a couple from NOLA. It’s a beautiful garden with several bridges crossing a lake with the sculptures out in the open and hidden in gardens.

I loved this one which shows a stack of people balancing on each other’s shoulders reaching skywards.

And the big blue safety pin.

The ladder to the window ……..

And Barbara Hepworth, whom we had an ADFAS lecture on last year, had a piece on show.

All interesting.

We dashed back to Preservation Hall for another Jazz show. This was in a very old building has traditional jazz players entertaining a small crowd – and to get a seat you book early which I did. Otherwise it’s standing at the back!

The line up outside before each show made me pleased I’d booked online. No photos allowed inside.

Our last stop for the night was to meet two young friends. Logan, who is Jordan’s cousin, is a chef in NOLA. He and his wife couldn’t get to the wedding but was able to meet us for a drink.

We’ve met him once in Brisbane when he was working in Melbourne.

Then Rae arrived. She and her whole family are great friends of Peter. She got a green card in the lottery and now works in NOLA. She’s into vintage fashion and lots of fun.

We gave Logan and Rae our spare tickets to Jazz Fest. One each! Hope they have fun.

So one Rose too many we made our way through Bourbon St. It was really going off and is like a tacky sideshow alley. You certainly see some sights. Not all of them tasteful!

But the police are there to guard.

Our time is Nuawlins is up. It’s been fun and a great place to visit especially during a rather busy Jazz fest or Mardi Gras time.

Jazz Fest Time

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I’ve always wanted to ride on a Yellow school bus. Every since I was a little girl and saw them in tv series and movies. Today it happened. And it took me to Jazz fest.

Come along for the ride.

We pulled up just as music got started around 11. The breeze was blowing, the sun was out and the local jazz lovers were out in force with their chairs, umbrellas, hats, rugs, and coloured beads.

I feel like I did the first time I went to Woodford. Slightly too mainstream!

First stop Gentilly stage with the Alex McMurray big band. Good foot tapping music and a few solo dancers warmed up for the day ahead with a variety of dance moves.

Next stop a change of pace with The Tangiers Combo. A very sexy looking violinist, double bass, clarinet & guitar.

Then on to the biggest arena for the bad boys the Stooges big band. Big attitude. Big sound.

Then it was the Jazz tent and

Jeremy Davenport. A cool dude with a hot trumpet.

Smoking time at the jazz club. Economy’s tent girl singing “Take your time in the sun”

The crowd are mostly over 30. Well actually probably more like over 40. Depends which tent you’re in.

It warm – so the skin is on show and there’s lots of tats and lots hats, sunburn skin, umbrellas and iced drinks and ponytails ( men! )

I’ll try and capture some of the better outfits – some are a treat.

The food stalls are southern style. Plenty of Po boy, catfish, crawfish, gumbo, iced tea, beer, frozen alcoholic cocktails like pina colada’s and Bloody Mary’s. The crowd were getting into it – though I don’t think the Americans drink quite as much as the Aussies.

Lunch for me was a huge bbq turkey wing with….. beans! Steve had a shrimp Po boy.

Next up the kids street band

and back into the tent for the Preservation Band. With a warm up Congo line. I had to resist the temptation to dance along along. Though I did ambush one of the ‘dancers’ –  though he was very sad looking and unimpressed by my request for a photo.

Then back to the Jazz tent for Banu Gibson and her band with special guest Vince Giordano from NY. Apparently they are all really well known trad jazz players. They actually looked more like Doctors! They played a favourite song ‘Baby won’t you please come home.’

Steve got distracted between shows and ended up with a Jazz fest Tshirt before sliding into the Gospel tent for some meaningful music.

Then in the Blues tent the well received ‘The Blind Men of Alabama’.

They may be blind but they can sing and even had someone signing the words to their songs. That was interesting to watch!

But our final two concerts were Lyle Lovett the more country style jazz man ………

Then the big name – Lionel Ritchie. Yes I came all the way to NOLA to see him when he came to the Byron Blues fest.

But there he was singing up a storm with everyone on their feet dancing. It was great.

So that was my day at Jazz Fest. It was so much fun. They love their music here. The crowds were so well behaved and the people here are so friendly.

We made it back to the yellow bus line before Lionel hit the last note.

So it was back to Magazine St to Mahoney’s for a beer and hot dog for Steve and something lighter for me!

Tomorrow’s our last day 😩. But it will be a big one. Lots planned.

Today we have ‘Gone with the Wind’

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Plantations are big here – both in size and reputation. We decided on a Plantation tour and not an alligator tour.

But which house do we visit? I read reviews and decided on Houmas House or the ‘Sugar House’ because it has a big reputation as a great example of a grand home.

I didn’t want to visit one with the slavery story. That is too sad.

We weren’t disappointed. Houmas House is grand and Southern style and the gardens were amazing.

We had an hour bus ride out along the swampy flat land in the direction of Baton Rouge. The driver was a super speedy guy – definitely the stunt driver from the movie Speed!

Arriving at the house was underwhelming at first as there is now an aluminium plant nearby with chimney stacks and smoke!

But pulling into the drive was like stepping back in time. All the attendants wear period costumes and the grounds are heavenly.

There were many sculptures in the garden both playful and decorative. So much money!

We heard the story of the building of the plantation. It’s named after the local Indian tribe. It was mainly a sugar plantation with 1,000 slaves working there. It made a fortune for its owner. It sold after the civil war for $1.5 million. That’s a lot of money for back then.

Our guide Susan took us through the house and had lots of stories. It’s a pity she spoke so fast ! Hard to follow her.

The present owner lives there in two rooms and is up and out each morning before the house opens. He’s not married but loves his dogs. Apart from close friends people don’t know who the owner of the house is or what he looks like.

Another heart thumping trip back to NOLA for a short rest before we went off to dinner. Now that’s a whole other story.

Wedding Bliss.

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What is more wonderful than a family wedding?

It brings together family and friends for the joy of celebrating the love between two people.

Today it is Rob and Jordan we are celebrating. Such a beautiful couple who have been together for 8 years. We have followed their love around the world and today witnessed their love in a beautiful wedding.

My heart is full.

The wedding was planned from New York and it was stunning. No fuss but thoughtfulness went into their decisions. No big wedding party. Just their two brothers Peter and Joseph as witnesses.

It was just them up on the altar with eyes just for each other.

Jordan looked stunning in an elegant dress with a stunning back embossed with jewels.

On the shoulder of her dress she pinned an antique diamond and opal brooch which belonged to Rob’s Grandma Betty.

Notice the little diamond opal brooch. Borrowed. It’s was Steve mother Betty’s. Such memories.

We gathered outside in the warm sun. It was the perfect afternoon.

Pete and El looking happy.

My two sons are perfectly matched with their lovely wives.

Then it was a walk down the street to the Historical Museum. The setting simple and stunning. What an afternoon.

By the time we were seated the afternoon sun warmed us. It was perfect.

The food began. Lots of finger food. Then family shared plates. So pretty to look at and oh so tasty.

So many of Robs friends young and old had travelled across from all parts of Australia , the US, London, Spain, Belgium , Switzerland to celebrate with him. The family – aunties and cousins. It’s magic.

A late but wonderful night was had by all. The drinks flowed , the dancing continued, the photo booth and the laughter was infectious.

The bride was exhausted and had to be carried home.

Fun night at home

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If you have an inventor as a friend you may have experienced a night like ours.

However, it’s unlikely as Dan Garr or Dannnnnn as he known to his swim trek friends is one big, beautiful, infectious creative being. With his beautiful wife Isabelle or Izzy as he calls her they are a great team and make all guests feel welcome. They have a big house and big hearts to go with it.

Last night he cooked on his amazing fondue pot/ bbq and it was so much fun.

This is the ginormous pot he invented and built. Check out the food in little trays around the outside, the little oven pans on the plates. They look like pizza slices. You assemble your meat with a sauce and a few other things and pop it in the oven! Easy. Tasty.

Then there are the prawns lobster and tempura batter to pop into the boiling oil. Delicious.

But that was last night and today was a ‘Day with a Difference ‘

We hovered in bed till the house was quite and Dan & Izzy gone off to work and only Max 16 was at home as school was off for him. They have ‘student free days’ here just like home.

Then we got up and met the Maria the Mexican house keeper. She was lovely and offered to do our laundry.

We had a plan so headed off on highway 405 south to Seal Beach where another swim friend, my ‘wing woman’ Betty was waiting with her husband Craig. We were so excited to see her that we forgot photos!

We sat over a yummy seafood lunch with our super friendly waitress hovering to help. I had a fish taco. Delicious.

After a few hours talking we said our goodbyes until we meet up again with Betty and our other Galapagos swim trek friends for a NY reunion in 3 weeks time.

We decided to drive further south along highway 1 past the beach areas of Long Beach, Newport Beach, Huntington and Laguna Beaches. Miles of coastline. Some pretty places and lots of Spanish sounding place names, being so close to Mexico. And believe it or not the Trump wall isn’t up yet!

We even saw a little red corvette with a blond driver zipping along. I find myself breaking into well known songs about the places and things we see.

We ended up in SAN Clemente another beachside town. Very pretty with the beach on one side of the town and a huge outlet centre on the other side. Natural we stopped in for a look. Steve did a little shopping at Calvin Kevin and I managed to find very comfortable shoes at Cole Haan.

Back onto the 405 north we zipped along the ride share lane going past 3 other lanes choking with cars.

We arrived home to Dan and Izzy’s house around 6.30 …… to find…..

Dan, the chef, in his amazing kitchen cooking crepes for dinner. He loves to cook and has such a great set up. Huge ovens, a grill and hot plate – everything!

The crepes were divine. Both savoury and sweet with fruits. The Napa Valley wine also hit the spot and helped us sit and plan our next swimming adventure together.

Dan was one of the ‘famous five’ swimmers from the Gibraltar Straits and Corsica to Sardinia swims, the Croatia swim and the Hong Kong harbour swim last Oct. So lots of shared memories.

Feeling a little tired we fell into bed dreaming of the wedding adventures to come.

We’re looking forward to seeing Rob & Jordan – but in Sunshine- no snow! It’s been a year since we saw them.

Up, Up and Way!

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Airports! We love & hate them.

The anticipation of travel makes them exciting. The thought of a very long journey makes us dread them.

But just like the movie Love Actually which shows the most heart warming scenes in an airport, I love them. Especially when upgraded to Business class! I ❤️the welcome champagne even at 10am.

It’s a great people watching place – a little micro world. A friend once said to me : ‘when I get old my children can park me in an airport or a shopping centre with lunch money and I’d be happy all day.’

I love seeing what people wear for their long flights. Glamorous vs comfort. These days comfort wins. Jeans, leggings, trackies, shorts.

Though I did see one outfit that warrants description. A shortish, wide, dark haired lady had a colourful, bosom exposing outfit with cris cross straps over her shoulders and somehow down to an exposed midriff before attaching to the matching skirt. Finished with high platform shoes it was an eye turning outfit. Or was it eye watering. What was she thinking. I hope it wasn’t a 13 hr flight!

But who am I to judge. I too opted for ‘smart casual ‘ : soft jeans / jeggings a comfy pull on style. A navy light cotton cardigan from Uniglo bought last week for $14! It’s so soft and comfortable.

Now I’m sitting with my watch adjusted to LA time – 7pm , with a glass of Chardonnay, watching Murder on the Orient Express.

A great start to our Wedding Holiday. I must admit I have to stop myself from telling everyone I’m going to my lovely son’s wedding in Santa Barbara. It’s very exciting.

So read along and share the excitement.