Tours in Budapest 

Sometimes it’s better to take a tour than to wander around trying to read non-existent English captions.

We’ve found here in Budapest they like to keep you in groups and guide you around.

So that’s how we visited the Dohany Jewish Synagogue.


It’s the 2nd largest in the world and is beautiful. Our guide was great – a mix of good humour and wealth of knowledge.


Its domed roof has a hint of Moorish architecture and some think it’s a mosque. There are also some lovely rose windows.

Within the grounds there is a lovely memorial garden and a sculpture of a willow tree. Each of the weeping leaves has the name of a Jewish person who died in the holocaust. It’s very moving.


Then we attempted to go to the Terror Museum by bus but were hampered by the police blocking off roads and changing bus routes. So we had lunch and walked to the Opera House for a tour.


As you can see there was a lot of work going on inside the main theatre. The poor guides moving around with different language groups had to speak up when we were seated in the theatre itself. It’s being prepared for a function for the FINA World Water Sports. Not an indoor pool we hope!

There were many other areas to visit and it is truly beautiful.


We’d love to go to an Opera performance so were quite pleased when we were asked to sit on the steps of the grand staircase and were treated to two arias.


After the tour concluded we attempted again to get to the Terror  Museum. This time the metro was closed as well as the bus missing! We believe Prime Minister Netanyahu is in town and moving him around requires huge numbers of Police,  helicopters continually buzzing overhead, and closed roads, and missing public transport!


So home we headed to rest up before going to St Stephen’s Cathedral tonight for an organ concert.

Not before Steve had a little sit down with a new friend. The sculptures here are great. This was was outside a theatre and was a writer.

Monday in Budapest

A big city throws up challenges and one of them is sorting the public transport. As much as we love walking, the distances can be a killer. So we dutifully studied the maps and used some guides which suggested which buses , trolleys buses, trams and metro ran near the sights we want to visit. We also bought a 5 day travel pass. It just means we can travel on any means of transport as many times as we like. This is good for a new big city.

I’m also good at asking one of the visitor helpers or even the Police for help. In doing so we got across the river and up to the Palace in good time before the crowds. We saw the “informal changing of the guard”. Not quite Buckingham Palace but very good.


Then walked along in front of the rather huge Palace. It’s slowly being restored after earthquakes and bombing from the war and the views back across the river to Pest are wonderful.


We stopped for coffee with a view. This is how we manage to keep going all day. We have little breaks.

My rather bad attempt at a timed selfie!

We then  made it to St Matthias. A beautiful church which appears to be so huge outside but is more intimate inside. It’s heavily painted inside and has lovely ceramic tiles on the roof which had to be replaced after WW2. It was inside that we found out more about the crowning of Austrian Franz Josef as King and his beautiful wife Elizabeth as his Queen. The story is well told in the museum adjoining the church.   It was here I looked up and down.



We walked along the wall called The Fishermens’ Bastion. It’s stunning with it turreted towers and beautifully restored stone work.

Beautifully restored Fishermens’ Bastion.

Then it was time for lunch sitting under  jaunty red umbrellas in a Parisian style cafe.

Steve was keen to go to the Hospital in the Rock. What a story. We had Timi as our guide and heard the story of the caves under the Palace Hill and how they were hollowed and used  as a Red Cross hospital during the war. Such great displays in the labyrinth of tunnels. They were also set up for a nuclear bomb in the 1950’s. The story touched on the bombs dropped on Japan during WW2 and how now we should understand the devastation this brings, and so – “No War”.

By now we had walked all around the hilltop known as Buda, so returned by bus to the river to visit our first of the Spas. Budapest is known as The City of Spas so we felt we had to start checking them out.

The baths of Budapest date back to the first century. Both Romans and Turkish influences can be seen. In the late 19th century the artisan wells were drilled to provide the thermal waters. So now Budapest boasts about having the largest number of spa thermal pools in Europe.

So we entered the St Gellert Thermal pools and went through the process of preparing our bodies for the variety of spas available! There are 4 outdoor thermal pools, several indoor spas and pools, an activity pool and various corridors of lockers and cabins and treatment rooms. It’s huge. And swimming costumes are required, so I wasn’t facing nude day like when I was in Baden Baden in Germany a few years ago!

We said goodbye to each other as we headed into the change rooms with our plastic wrist watch with a tag to be able to access a locker. Then it’s into the swimmers , have a shower and meet up again outside. It was quite crowded with people. Unfortunately I don’t have many  pictures. I had to leave my camera in the locker as I didn’t trust myself not to lose it outside.

These three I took of posters on the wall! It’s so over the top. We have nothing like it in Australia.


Our first pool was 36′ and we slipped in and found a step. It was wall to wall sitters. All in state of relaxation. We sat under a rather forceful shower which hammered at our necks and after awhile it proved to be relaxing. Then we took to the cool pool at 26′ so felt quite refreshed. Then we went to the indoor pools and wallowed a little more. We’d forgotten our bathing caps so couldn’t enter the ‘swimming pool’!

So for about 2 hours we relaxed and enjoyed and finished with a shower before returning to our apartment relaxed.

I’d recommend it ! And we’re doing it all again at another spa on Wednesday.

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Zagreb to beautiful Budapest by train

Train travel takes the hassle out of travelling to airports and gives some scenery along the way.


We walked from our Hotel Palace Zagreb two block down through the gardens to the train and caught the 10am to Budapest. No security lines, no hold ups, no crowds. We met a very nice American mother and daughter seated opposite us and got underway for the 4.5 hr journey. The countryside was green and the journey peaceful.

Sometimes we think the taxis waiting for tourists at airports and train stations are there just to rip us off! Our taxi driver had better English than some of the taxi drivers in Sydney and was so interesting telling us about the city. And we didn’t get ripped off!

First impressions of Budapest. Big grand buildings, wide boulevards, decorative iron work, interesting street art. In fact quite Parisian. And of course. An EYE!

The Royal Palace is beyond grand. It’s now being restored and houses two museums.

The walk towards St Stephens Cathedral.

And here it is. St Stephens. We’re going there for a concert on Tuesday.

It’s quite ‘ summer in the city’  feel. Outdoor music, bars spilling over with people drinking beer and Aperol Spritz and watching the FINA water sports on big screen TVs.

We walked and walked into the evening to get orientated to this lovely city. The only disappointment is that the light rail runs along the river! You can get below it but it’s awkward. Pity, as the River  Danube is great.

The street sculptures and street art is always interesting and fun.


The city  is hosting the FINA World championships so there are lots of people around from a variety of countries. Somehow it doesn’t feel too crowded like Paris and Rome can feel.

Painted on the side of a building. So cute.

After walking we rewarded ourselves with a beer in a beer garden opposite our house. Then feeling tired we decided to stay on for dinner.  We got back to the apartment and just enjoyed it. Caught up with the Tour de France and used the washing machine. When travelling it’s great to have a good apartment with a washing machine and an coffee machine! This is a beauty I found on air BnB.  It’s in a great area, has all the essentials including a lift and is so well decorated and fitted out. And it’s less than Aus $100 a night. Well done me!


So we planned our day tomorrow. We’re going across the river to Buda to the Palace, the church of St Matthias and several other larger-than-life buildings. And this is a little of what we will see.

Saturday in Zagreb

We were excited to get going this morning after a lovely dinner at Purger a good local restaurant. Purger is a slang word to describe someone born and bred in Zagreb.

It rated well on trip advisor and wasn’t far from out hotel, Zagreb Palace, or from the park where the little stalls were getting lively with drinkers and dancers. Purger is a little dated in decor. More 1980’s than now! But the food was great. Good local food. Veal seems to be very popular here and Steve had sauted veal with garlic! I loved my dish of cabbage leaves stuffed with lamb and pork minced meat swimming in a lovely paprika sauce. Served over mash it was  real comfort food and so different from the fish dishes I enjoyed on the island.


After a very good breakfast we hit the streets went to the local fruit & veg markets with the gorgeous red umbrellas. 


Bought a new cap and decided on a city bus tour to get to the rather spread-out areas of the city. It was disappointing! The driver drove too quickly and the commentary by a local women was so heavily accented and so fast we could hardly understand it.

There are many lovely buildings. Not as old as they appear because of the earthquake in the 1880’s but  they are grand. Then there are the communist style – plain austere and uninviting. Then there is the street art. I think when countries embrace street art or graffiti as we call it the result can be fantastic.


We got back about 40 mins earlier than stated ‘on the brochure’,  so decided walking was the way to explore the old town and joined in on a few walking tour groups to get some information.

The Stone Gate, built in Middle Ages, houses a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary. We passed houses with spiked domes on top. These were to stop the witches from landing on the roofs!  There were stories of witches being hunted by the locals. Those poor women – the ones with a mole ( a sign that they were a witch) – were automatically killed!


Couldn’t resist a visit to Kravata – a tie shop famous for its tie made using the colours and design famous in Croatia.  The necktie was invented here in Croatia! The Croatian women used to make triangular scarves ( or kravats) for their men to wear when leaving for a war. They tied them around their neck for good fortune and so they would return. The Croatians served as mercenaries for the French – hence the “cravat” and the fashion item!


Then I couldn’t resist the Museum of Broken Relationships. It was recommended by my swimming wing woman,  Betty. At first I though it was about relationships lost through war. But no,  it’s regular people talking about a love they lost. Each story was accompanied by an item that meant something to them. Oh there were some sad stories.

One of the exhibits from the Museum of Broken Relationships. This girl had met ‘her love’ and he left her.

In the cafe of the museum this is the wifi information!

We recovered from the Museum by walking past the funicular into the Strossmayerova park  with its beautiful views back over the city. It was here we sat on the park benches with whimsical things hanging from the trees – witches, hoops and  flowers and had some lunch. Again a sausage and beer for Steve! 

We continued walking along the path, stopped to look at the view from over the stone fence and spied The Art Park tumbling down the hill. Such a great use of space. Straw animals and lots of street art.

Then a spot of shopping for me while Steve went to the Model Train exhibition!

We continued walking until a storm hit which sent us all into bars and restaurants. There are so many outdoor cafes with padded seat pads that the waiters were kept running bringing all the pads inside. By the time we got a drink the sun was back out!


Craft beers are a big deal here in Zagreb, as they are in many parts of the world. Steve was getting excited about trying another one so we found The Craft House and he sampled two different India Pale Ales. Of course while we were there right near a church we saw a wedding!


Now it’s rest time before dinner at Bistro Fotic a recommended restaurant not far from our hotel. PS. Just back and it was great. Yum cutlets for me with minted peas and feta. Pepper steak for Steve.

Zagreb is proving to be a great place for a few days – summer being the best time to visit.

Watch out for my 10 best things yo see and do in Zagreb.

Zagreb. A surprising capital city

It’s funny how a few hours of travel  can move you from one world to the next.

We had our last breakfast together then bid goodbye to the last of our swim trek friends.

Much hugging and exchanging of emails and promises of meeting up again. And we will definitely catch up.

The ferry ride back to Zadar took about 20 minutes – and we all decided we’d rather like to swim the crossing – “only” 3 km.

Then to the bus station and onto the bus for Zagreb. The buses here are great. Only 13 euro and free wifi!

We were in Zagreb by 2.49 and booked into the Palace Hotel. It’s a big old hotel with some lovely public spaces.


We dumped the bags and went to find some late lunch. The hotel is opposite a park that runs several blocks from the train station up to the old town.

The parks are beautiful. We crossed into them and found a bandstand with great music – recorded – and little food stalls all around with different types of tables & chairs.



We had a good snack. Steve particularly liked his deer sausage!

Then we started wandering the streets looking up and down.


The skies turned grey making walking easy.

The buildings are a mix of old decorated buildings, plain communist style buildings, ones covered with painted claddings hiding the renovations, and some rather garish modern buildings.


We bought our train tickets for the journey to Budapest on Sunday.

Then we planned our day tomorrow and our dinner tonight!

Pushed to the limit on the last day of swim trek

img_1566The last day is always sad. We’re all getting to know each other. It doesn’t matter that this was a slightly shorter trek or that we knew most of the swimmers before.

We hopped in the water and off we went. After a few days swimming you know who you swim best with. Someone with a similar pace. My wing man is Olivier. He’s from Paris.

My wing woman in Galapagos was lovely Betty from the USA and in Montenegro it was fun Sophie from England, now living Tarifa in Spain  I’ve loved swimming with all these great people

Today Steve  decided to stay with us. I like this because he becomes the sighter and I can relax and swim! He guides us in the direction we need to go which is pretty important on the crossings from island to island.

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We started with  one of these crossings. Then  we hit a tough patch of choppy water and a strong current running against us. Ricky gathered us on the boat and moved us onto the end of the island and we started another crossing.

Relaxing on the boat before the final swim.

One of the crossings from island to island. Steve in yellow cap out front.

From here on it was smooth swimming and we stopped every half hour for some food – this really helps with distance swimming.

Finally we finished. 8 km! Yes, me – my personal best distance  oh boy …

Congratulations from Steve. 8km!

We stopped at a lovely bay at the top of Ugljan island and had our last lunch together at Konoba Dali.

It was a pretty restaurant with terrific views and even better food. We had a Peka. This is a traditional dish of the island . Some had meat and the other octopus.

The 🐙 had just been caught that morning , boiled, tenderised and then cooked in a clay pot over hot coals. It was the most wonderfully tender octopus I have ever had.

 

They served it with potatoes and zucchini and lashings of olive oil.

Fantastic with a local wine – Rose.

It will be sad to leave our friends at swim trek. It was all made possible by Chris Masek, our friend from our first trek in Sardinia in 2013 when I could only swim about 1 km. He also organised the big swims Steve got to do. One the crossing from Corsica to Sardinia and the other from Spain to Morocco.

Chris, sadly didn’t get here at all for the trek. Business interfered at the last moment and he couldn’t get away.

In the evening we had the end of swim trek dinner. Photo opportunities of new friends.

Guide Neil, myself, Yves- former guide now friend, Steve and Ricky our guide here and from Greece 2 years ago.

Ricky, Dan Garr from LA, Neil, myself and swim buddy Olivier, and Dan’s two sons Luke and Max and wife Isabelle

Julien with the ‘jeans style’ swim togs given by Steve. Quite a novelty.

Clowning around with Yves. Neil sitting.

As usual , Awards were given. I got mine for being a ‘record breaker!’ Setting new distances each day.

It was a great few days of swimming. Usually swim treks are 5-6 days of swimming but this one was longer distances over 4 days. Exhausting!

Tomorrow we move on to Zagreb.

We take a ferry at 9.15 back to Zadar then a comfortable bus to Zagreb.

 

 

 

Day 3 Swim Trek 

Once again breakfast with the  boys and we were off and away.


Today Dan our American friend, inventor , funny man , foodie and all round good guy brought his wife Izzey and two sons Max and Luke along on the boat. They aren’t really swimmers but were prepared to give it a go. So off we went for a crossing and a lovely swim along some more beautiful coastline.

It’s a magic day – but before we go we get the vasoline treatment!

The beautiful waters of Croatia.

The two boys did a bit of the swims and then jumped back on while Izzey  became the photographer for the day.

Lunch by Ricky & Neil

Perfect summer bar

Informal waterpolo. Training the stars of the future.

We had another great lunch provided by our guides Ricky and Neil. They provided a variety of salads and assorted fruits. Very spoiled.

The last swim today was along the coast ending in a little bay with a great bar along the waters edge overlooking a waterpolo area netted off for the local kids to practice their skills.

No wonder Croatia do well at waterpolo. The kids playing informally were very skilled and fun to watch.

We made our way back to the boat to return to the hotel to do a quick change before we headed our for dinner at Konoba Roko for dinner.

First day of Swimtrek

We were in the breakfast room by 8am all dressed ready for the trek.

Yves managed to sleep in! By 8.30 we were away in a van to the other side of the island to save us sailing time in the boat. We headed off with all the gear around us and Ricky gave us the briefing which explained the swims for today.


I was getting nervous. The first swim was to be 5 km. Along some coast line and at least 3 crossings from island to island. This can be hard.

A few pointers were given on efficiency in stroke and vasoline applied to areas that could suffer from chaffing.


Then it was in the water and off .

The first part seemed long and hard then we got into a rhythm. We swam and swam and finally reached the end. It was about 5.3 km. Probably my longest swim in one hit!  Feeling chuffed!

We enjoyed lunch on the boat prepared by Ricky and Neil and even made smoothies in the Revablend. It’s a new gadget that blends without electricity. It hand powered. Our friend on the trip Dan Garr has invented it. It’s was fantastic.


By the end of the day we had swum 7.2 km. I was tired.

We had a few drinks, dinner and fell into bed. Tomorrow is another day and another 8 km.

Lazy Summer day by the beach

After a lovely dinner last night we were late to bed and enjoyed the quietness of our apartment. We are back from the party atmosphere of the beach and I must say it’s quieter.

We got up before most of the party people and that includes the children! We wandered down to the beach and swam out and around the small island. It was quiet with very few boats. It was about 1.5 km and felt beautiful.

Yes I swam around the island twice today. From near the blue dot which is our hotel.

Back on land we were amused to see the free wooden slatted day beds had towels on them to ‘reserve’ them. I think holiday makers sneak out at night and put the towels on them anchored down with rocks. There were certainly no swimmers around so it was a plot against early risers wanting beds! I felt tempted to remove the towels and lie down. No wonder many beaches have paid day beds! Make them free and people think they can own them by depositing a towel on them.

Following breakfast I left Steve doing emails and went for a walk and some shade to read my book. I was sitting near the water under a tree and heard a familiar voice. It was Yves   – our old swim trek friend from 2014 Sardinia trip. He’d arrived with a local having been given a lift from the port.

We waited for Steve to join us for coffee and caught up on lots of news. Yves us a great guy. He is half Australian half Vanuatian. So has a French and Australian passport. He worked for Swim trek when we first met him but now works on-and-off as a town planner in England, when he’s not running his own standup paddle boarding trips to places like Mexico, or swim treks to his home place Vanuatu. We’re planning a trek to Vanuatu next year. Come along.

Later in the afternoon the group for our swim trek arrived.

What a great group. Four FRENCH men, Yves, and Dan Garr and his wife Isabelle and two sons Max and Luke.

We did an orientation swim. Yes around the island again! Then we were put into our swim groups for tomorrow. I’m with Steve and two Frenchmen. Julien and Daniel.

We had a great first night dinner  with the guides Ricky and Neil. Both great guys. They outlined the swim for tomorrow. Help.! It’s 5 km in the morning and 2 km in the afternoon.

Mmmmm … off to bed for a good sleep.

Farewell Slovenia. Hello Croatia. 

We had a wonderful last night in Bled. After the storm we made it to the little church island. It was quiet and beautiful. The church of the Assumption is mostly white with a restrained interior and a bell you are invited to ring and make a wish. I had wondered about the number of bells I’d been hearing!

Inside of the bell tower. Wonderful wooden staircase.

Had a great last dinner at  villa on the edge of Bled town. Phillip the waiter was very helpful and friendly which was in contrast to the trip advisor comments on the restaurant.

As we walked back along the lake we decided we’d had the perfect amount of time in Bled. For all it’s beauty unless you want to hang out at the lake swimming or do bush walking then two days is probably enough. We were ready for Croatia.

So bright and early we made our way to the little bus station. Thank goodness Villa Pavlovski was only a 3 min walk!

We got the bus back to Ljubljana and changed to one for Croatia. It was to take 5 hrs all up. The scenery was good and we knew we’d arrived in Croatia because things were not quite as green and there were rocky outcrops everywhere. Very rugged landscape here. Which contrasts amazingly well with the Blue of the sea.

Just north of Zadar. Contrasting rugged landscape and the sea.

We arrived in Zadar at 1.30 ready for lunch with Tracey a friend from Melbourne. We met last year in Montenegro and it turns out she’d just finished two treks. First in Sardinia then in Croatia. She is great fun and has made great progress with her swimming. She went in a fun swim today in Zadar with 4 of the swim trek guides – 5 km -and won her age group and “First Australian over the line”! She’s amazing.

By 4.30 we were riding the ferry to Ugljan and the township of Preko. We were met by one if the hotel staff and whisked along to a modern looking complex of little 2 bedroom apartments. The hotel overlooks the very pretty, very busy  bay. Only problem- none of the apartments have a view of the sea. The good thing is we are away from the party night noise.


Preko is a summer holiday haven. All around Ugljan there are bays and beaches and we’ll be swimming them with guides Ricky and Neil.

Land of summer fun. Preko Bay.

We had a swim and the water is gorgeous. And salty! After  fresh water Lake Bled it was a bit much for the eyes with no goggles.

Then I walked and people watched. Summer anywhere brings the crowds. The families, friends, dog lovers, eaters, teenagers in packs. All getting along. Playing and splashing (not much swimming!) and eating gelato. All shapes and sizes with almost all the women in two pieces. Including me! And I didn’t feel anyone even noticed me. In Australia I definitely wouldn’t wear one, but here, why not! If I’d had my bright training swimmers from Funkita on they may have noticed me.

Restaurants and boats. Just the right mix.

There is a walkway that follows the waterline along – in and around the beaches and bays. You get to a section where there are restaurants lined up together. Not with the cream umbrellas of Ljubljana but with either smart furniture or plastic. Doesn’t make much difference.

We returned for a walk heading for dinner around 9pm and there were still groups splashing and playing. The children seem so carefree. The moon was coming out and the colours of the sky so soft and beautiful.


I know we’ll have a good week here. We’re looking forward to our friends arriving tomorrow.

This  trek will take us to the quiet isolated parts of this island and to explore other islands in this area. Lucky us.