Today the weather is beautiful. Rain is often predicted for the afternoon but it doesn’t seem to happen.
We decided to explore the suburbs by bus before heading to the St Mary’s Church not far from our apartment.
But first a walk in a few different streets. Second last day and we discover a beautiful street called William street with some great businesses. We had coffee at O’Briens. Sounds like an Irish joke but they make good coffee.
William Street.
Then a wander in and out of Paper Tiger. A shop with everything cards, books, useful things , toys, gadgets, ….. I could go on .
Then Oska a lovely ladies clothes place, a jewellery place , Rouge Flowers, Fox & Co catering and cafe. The Green Room Wine Bar and Tuechters and great looking pub.
Then onto a bus and out past Murrayfield Rugby Stadium to a high street before wandering around and heading back to St Mary’s for a lunchtime concert. T
oday a pianist and a singer. It was a nice way to sit and relax before getting another bus yo the Royal Botanic Gardens.
Murrayfield Stadium. Home of Rugby . Arrival at the Botanic Gardens
What a great place. Lots of winding roads and pathways.
Rock gardens with a waterway
Great views to the city.
A lovely cafe.
Gallery with cafe to the side
And a very good public garden where people are shown how to grow edible foods themselves and maintain plots.
Medicinal plants. Resident squirrelA great show coming soon.
We walked a long way including a little more of the Water of Leith walk.
So peaceful.
After a quick trip home I went to my Irish massage man, Cathal to massage out the tightness and tiredness in my legs. Definitely worth it.
And then a wee visit to the new pub we found this morning Tuechters Bar & Bunker. We both had a great meal of seafood pie and scallop risotto. Helped along with a wee drink.
Inside the bar.
On the menu they had hundreds of Whiskeys. Steve decided he should try a wee dram so ordered a whiskey flight. 3 whiskeys an 8 yr 10 yr and a 12 yr. He had a nice time deciding which one he liked the best.
Steve took the Speyside flight.
I wanted to play the game they advertised
Our lovely waiter assured me it was too hard to win! And to just buy another drink.
Breakfast was held in the old world dining room and served by a friendly local girl. They are having a wedding at the hotel today so it as all busy busy!
We headed north to get the first ferry to Yell. A great name for an island. First stop was a teeny tiny Old Haa Museum. Its in a house belonging to one of the islands great characters I’d say. He was a crofter, fisherman , raconteur and part time dentist. There was a tray of teeth he had pulled over the years & there was a old recording of his voice ‘telling ‘ stories.
Outside the Old Haa Museum.
And right on time as predicted, the rain started. We drive the length of Yell island. It’s very barren. Hardly a tree to be seen.
Lots of hardy looking sheep grazing along the narrow roads with hardier looking people out on their properties mustering the sheep.
We got to the second ferry crossing. From Yell across to Unst. This is really getting northerly. It is the most northerly part of the United Kingdom. It has around 700 residents and is rugged , remote, open, wild and beautiful.
Each of the islands has a distinct personality. Unst is more settled and we spent more time on this island.
Unst is believed to be the first landing point of the Vikings in the North Atlantic. There are the remains of at least 60 longhouses, and the highest density of rural Viking sites anywhere, including Scandinavia.
An example of a longhouse A Viking longboat.
We visited the small but informative Unst Heritage Centre. This is an ideal first stop for anyone visiting the island. Visitors can explore the unique history of Unst through a display of artefacts donated by residents both past and present. The exhibitions depict geology, archeology, crofting and there are unique examples of lacework & knitting.
The displays depict life for a Crofter – farmer. Sleeping arrangements in the crofters house. Note the expandable cot.The most exquisite lace work. Done by lamplight.
For a small centre it is well worth the trip. We were there with a group of knitters & weavers from Scandinavia. They were in raptures.
We moved onto the Unst boat haven also in Haroldswick. And a haven it was. A well curated shed of boats outlining herring fishing from its earliest days until the present. Robert the guide on duty was keen to help and walked with us through the centre talking about the boats and the history of the area. He loved Steve’s enthusiasm for boats, so was a great companion.
We heard about herring fishing from its earliest days until the present.
An amazing collection of boats. Robert explains the flags to Steve.
I was fascinated by the section on the Herring industry. The women played a big part in keeping this going. In the 1800’s there were 3,000 people living in Unst and 28 registered boats. The fishermen were also crofters to supplement their poorly paid jobs. The landowners and boat owners made most of the money .
By the 1970’s the government banned herring fishing as the giant trawlers had depleted stocks so much. Now the main industry is drawn from its 1700 miles of coastline. The seafood industry and oil from the North Sea.
We took refuge from the drizzly rain in Victoria’s tea room in front of Boat Haven. It’s a gift farm shop and cake heaven. People were tucking into soup and sandwiches but as we’d had a big breakfast we enjoyed coffee and a slice of cake. Coffee walnut for Steve and lemon drizzle for me.
We had read about the Norse people arriving in this not too dissimilar country and building longhouses and longboats.
The Scottish humour shines through the drizzle.
We stopped at the Shetlands Gallery. there is quite an arts crafts trail here in the Shetlands and this gallery was airy, calm with beautiful light filled spaces. It is owned by artist Shona Skinner a woman who taught art in London for many years before she and her husband moved here to her homeland and set up a gallery and studio. Shona had her own workroom attached to the gallery which is open and shows her beautiful work with textiles as well as painting.
Don’t miss the red shed. Shetland gallery halfway up Yell island Shona Skinner’s workshop walk. Paintings , sketches and sewn
I loved Shona’s work. Such beautiful colour combinations that reflect the colours of the island.
A little concertina book of ideas.
We met a young woman from New Zealand at the gallery. She’s a young doctor doing 6 months work at the hospital. She was telling us how much she was enjoying living in Lerwick. That it is a vibrant friendly place. After 6 months spent just out of London she is enjoying this so much more. I think Ísland life gets under the skin.
We now drive through quite heavy rain to catch the larger ferry back to the main island. We queued up in the unbooked lane and very nearly missed out. So my advice is get online and book your ferry crossings. It can be very busy and you might miss out.
We drove down to Lerwick and in light rain drove around the town.
My first impression is of an interesting town set by the sea ( always a winner for me). Lots of boats to look at. Recently they had the Festival of tall ships. It would have been so colourful to be here then.
We found our little apartment in the attic section of a three story house. Yes a few stairs but so worth it. The apartment is terrific. Clean, well organised and just so comfortable.
We ventured out for food to find the wind and rain had cleared to a beautiful night.
Planning tomorrow’s activities kept us busy over dinner and then we watched a little tv !
Our plane was an hour late arriving which put us behind. We hired a car from the airport and were sent to the car park to play ’ find the car’. Such a relaxed island way of hiring a car. Steve walked around clucking the car opener until we heard a beep.
We headed straight up the hill to Sumburgh lighthouse. It was super windy and the views were an indication of what as to follow as we explored this most northerly part of Great Britain.
The lighthouse museum explains the history of lighthouses. The hardship the early keepers endured and life for the families of the keeper. I loved the profile of a Lighthouse Keeper.
The attributes of a lighthouse keeper. Flying into Sumburgh View from the lighthouse. Very windy but not that cold!
It had an excellent marine section showing the birds found here. The puffins are a favour and everywhere you go there are pictures and little stuffed toys depicting the puffin. I got to hear the noises of the birds and the little puffin has a growling type call.
Part of the Marine display
We continued up the main road north and called into Sandwick with the idea of catching the little ferry across to Mousa a small island off the mainland. It is a bird life haven. Unfortunately we were running late because our plane was an hr behind and we missed the last ferry of the day. we’ll try again in Sunday.
We called into a jewellery shop on the arts and crafts trail. Karlin Anderson was born in the Shetlands but had spent a lot of her adult life in London. She does beautiful work which reflects life on the islands. Her lace work jewellery is exquisite.
If you can read this it tells the story behind her collection.
I might have ordered something from her!
Her workshop looks out to this view.
We had a bowl of soup at the Hoswick craft cafe and chatted to the lady in the shop They are such warm friendly people so open to questions about their life on the island.
Excited to see some Shetland ponies on our way to the sunny west coast of the island.
So cute.
Horses came over with the Norse settlers. They would have been bigger then but evolved with the conditions to be shorter study horses to cope with the conditions and the work load.
We detoured to visit St Ninians. It’s a spectacular beach which stretches from the mainland to a small island. The weather was perfect. Warm & sunny there were even people paddling in the crystal clear water.
Crystal clear waters of St Ninians.
Steve walked over to the island and I walked around the cove to explore the rocks. There are so few people around it makes it very special.
Stunning St Ninians.
The road north is much better than I anticipated and there was little traffic so it was an easy drive
We passed through Brae and decided as the weather was so good to head out the peninsula to the cliffs of Eshaness. The drive gave us the most spectacular scenery possible. We got to the lighthouse and looked North. The afternoon light bathed the coast in sunlight. Truly beautiful.
Magnificent coastal views Rock formations off the coast Eshaness coast.
Heading back to our accommodation we drive down to a little boat ramp used by local fishermen.
Arriving at Busta House was like stepping back in time. It’s old, steeped in history and had rooms refurbished. However, it has stayed. Big stone stairs down to an entrance then up two old staircases to our room named Papa Stour , one of the little islands nearby.
View from our bedroom at Busta House.
The room was comfortable, had a view out to a bay named Busta Voe. The new bathroom was tiny and definitely wasn’t for the feint hearted. The bath was so high it was like doing gymnastics to get get in! I counted at least 5 people staying at the house who used walking sticks so I don’t know how they managed. So it missed a 🛌🛌🛌 rating. Only a 🛌🛌. But a fairly high 2!
We had drinks in the sitting room before dinner. There were around 125 Gin and nearly 300 whiskey varieties to choose from. Dinner was nice fresh homely food- lamb for Steve , salmon for me with lovely fresh veggies.
The Matildas Australia’s favourite women’s football team was playing England. Big moment.
I choose to explore Lauder ( it didn’t take long ) even though I was walking at a snails pace. Steve decided to walk. Turns out he covered 19 km.
The beautiful sign welcoming people to Lauder
Lauder is a lovely Border town and has a nice little High St with a great cafe gallery. I occupied myself there for a while with the other people using walking sticks. I’ve really noticed how many people need a walking stick perhaps more here in Scotland?
I then returned to the Black Bull and chatted to the wife of yesterday’s timber man the owner – Steve’s new best friend . They have owned this pub for 8 years and have turned it into a friendly place for locals and tourists. Turns out they travel to Sydney every second year to visit their daughter in Sydney. She & her husband run an event company and recently organised the opening event to the World Cup which involved closing the Sydney Harbour Bridge for an opening party.
So she was more than happy to chat and have the tv on the GAME I sat there mostly alone ( it was 11am) with a coffee. Not a gin!
It was a great game but unfortunately Australia lost to England. Remember, I’m in Scotland and they were mostly supporting Australia! No love lost between England Scotland.
Meanwhile, Steve is walking along the road then detouring through fields , forests & villages.
A path Past cattle and sheep.
He found a beautiful old church and chatted for ages to the three ladies doing the weekly clean. The church only opens twice a week so he was lucky today was one of the days .
This church dates from 1242 it looks quite new but has recently celebrated their 781 year anniversary. The celebration quilt.
I left the pub and drove around the country side and arrived at the Juniperlea Pub to meet a very tired Steve for a late, late lunch.
We had a quiet afternoon as the afternoon ‘sludge’ had started. ( drizzly rain)
Dinner was at the Hotel pub and and early night. The food is good but it’s getting hard to select! I had the steak pie ! Steve the local cheddar Mac & Cheese. We’ve had the fish ‘n chips another favourite a few times. So time for a change.
Steve decided yesterday’s long walk was enough. It was cloudy and he didn’t want to walk in the rain, so we left together for an explore of the countryside. It’s so beautiful. Lush fields , stone fences where no one seems to be in a hurry. Lots of retirees in these little villages where there is nothing around. Most have few, if any shops at all so you have to get a bus or drive everywhere. oh it would be so cold in the long winters!
We found a laundrette in a supermarket car park. Such a great idea. Three big machines in a bus shelter type building. You pop your washing in, go into the Coop supermarket. Come out , change to the dryer and have a coffee in the adjacent coffee shop. So easy.
We drove up to the next village Dalkeith. It’s only about 30 mins from Edinburgh so would be a good place to live and commute to work in Edinburgh.
We visited the stunning Dalkeith Park. You can drive around it (a bit like Centennial Park in Sydney) and there is a Palace which is only open on weekends for tours and concerts. There’s a rotunda and nearby a part called Restoration. It’s a little piazza type area with restaurants, shops a great food hall and gallery. A lovely place to meet for lunch.
Pretty piazza Dalkeith Palace
There’s also camping in the park next to an adventure playground. Free for children but £4 for adults! It’s got all sorts of tree houses, slides sand play and from the delighted screaming for the children a fun place to spend some time.
Rotunda Great food hall
About 20 minutes away is Rosslyn Chapel. You may have heard of this chapel – mostly because of the book & movie The DaVinci Code. They filmed scenes here. The publicity was good for the chapel because visitors to it have increased . Before there was a little man sitting in a wooden box at the entrance where you entered for free. Now there’s parking , a visitor centre, lots of well planned & displayed information.
The chapel was started in 1442 and took 40 years to build. It was built by the wealthy St Clair family as a chapel on their land. It deteriorated over many years and was at one point used as a stable for horses.
Rosslyn Chapel
The design is gothic style with the most beautiful stone carvings. All designed to reflect stories from the bible.
It’s small with a limited number of people entering in each 90 min time slot. There’s a free talk about the Chapel, when everyone sits in the pews and look ready for a church service. Our guide was a frustrated actress or maybe a vicar. Reminiscent of Dawn French she brought the history alive with a few well told stories including dramatic pause, lowered voice and a laser pointer to highlight the stone sculptures.
Note the kangaroo in the bottom left. A wife of the Earl was Australian.
From the Chapel it was off to Edinburgh for a night before flying to the Shetland Islands. I pre arranged for Steven ( the man I’ve been communicating with for our 10 day apartment stay after Shetland ) to store a bag. So kind of him. We have limited luggage for the small plane to the islands & were planning on playing storage costs at a local place but it got complicated so I emailed my friend Steven and he met us at the apartment and took our bag to his place until we arrive back. So kind of him.
Pub near our apartment in Edinburgh. Staying there after our Shetlands trip.
The apartment position is great. Just behind the castle, 4 minutes from a tram line & Steve measured 75 paces to our local pub. Can’t wait to settle for 10 days.m!
We had the night at The Royal Scots Club near Princes St after a tasty Japanese meal. Huge variety of food places here.
A 5.15 am taxi pick up for our 7.20 flight to the Shetlands. I’m sitting in the little plane with only about 20 passengers watching the propellers twirl waiting for take off.
Off to find Jimmy Perez. If you don’t know the tv series take a look (and put the captions on to help with the heavy Scottish accents)
Too good to be true. Not taking off. The Shetlands control tower radio was faulty and had to be checked – so back to the gate for an hour!
After a few detours we left Glasgow and headed south. The countryside is green, lush and covered in wind veins. All over the countryside ? What do you think of them?
Did a brief drive through Carlisle and then out to Hadrians Wall. Steve has been in training for his few days walk. Will his knees carry him along the wall ?
First stop was Birdoswalk Roman Fort. It has been uncovered in recent years and is a popular place for families. Lots of child related activities.
Birdoswald Roman Fort
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Countryside is beautiful
We called into the Roman Army Museum.
Such a great place. Lots of displays about how the wall was built. The huge number of soldiers who were moved here to build it in AD 122 l. Hadrian built it to secure the border of what was called Britannia.
There was a great movie. Everyone sitting with their 3D glasses marvelling on how these poor soldiers did it.
From here Steve launched into his walk. He planned on 12 km. Along the wall up and down and making new friends along the way.
The stretches for 73 miles from Newcastle to Carlisle
Some people walk for 4-5 days. Others do sections. Steve choose two days to walk. Tomorrow will be longer.
I chose to drive the little roads around the area. Up and around I went. Names like Haltwhistle, Bardon Mill, Greenhead. It’s a beautiful part of the country. I love looking at the walkers. Big walking sticks and determination written all over their faces. It gives a sense of community.
I arrived at our hotel for the night. It’s right on the wall and called Twice Brewed ! They have a brewery on site called Once Brewed.
You can see our hotel in the distance.
Steve was ready for a beer and a hearty meal. We tend to have breakfast and maybe miss lunch. So a big dinner for Steve tonight.
It was roast night. Sensibly they offer a half serve which I had.
I forgot to rank our room in Glasgow. A 2 🛌🛌it was roomy but the bathroom was quite old fashioned and there was noise from the back alley!!hundreds of bottles being collected and smashed each night!
Breakfast was good though and Leslie our breakfast waitress looked like she could be an extra on Downton Abbey.
Excitement is mounting. It’s been a long time since I’ve done international travel. Steve went to Italy for a swim trek last year but I didn’t. so it feels rather strange sitting here in the lounge waiting.
Bags are packed. 12kg is more than I planned but I blame the warmer clothes needed for Iceland , the Shetlands and the Hebrides. I’ve rolls into compression cubes but fear when I unpack I’ll never get it back into the same space! And a sign of my age is the large addition of pills, potions, knee guards and even a heat pack! All that weighs more than my clothes!
I hope you the readers can stay reading for 9 weeks! We’re doing the trip we planned back during covid. Iceland , Scotland and have added on driving across the US!
We’ve planned it ourselves. Apart from the super airfare my friend Jenny booked for us.
I book the accommodations, Steve does transport and we fill out the ‘to do’ together. Finding suitable places to stay involves reading reviews & checking google maps. And finding places I can cancel if something better comes up. It pays off!
We’re away for 64 days with the longest Sat of 11 nights in Edinburgh for the Festivals. Lots of concerts, music, the tattoo book festival food festival. It will be a big busy time.
The day was glorious- after a cool night we woke to blue skies and a warm sun.
The visitors centre is at the main building as you drive into the Wilpena Resort. It also houses an IGA which would be so helpful for the many campers.
The area is very sheltered with lots of beautiful trees providing shade during the hot summer months.
The Aboriginal guides at the centre have lots of helpful advice on the many walks and the drives we could take to discover the sights of the area.
With a plan in mind we set off. The resident emus were there to say goodbye as we headed back out to the explorers way.
Map of the area of Wilpena
Our first turn off was to Bunyeroo Gorge. The road was dirt but not too bumpy. Before long the grandeur of the mountain ranges started to appear.
The gorge here is so different to the gorges on the Gibb River. Spectacular, yes, Rocky, yes, but accessible by 4 wheel drive. We drive into Bunyeroo and are immediately surrounded by the ranges. Bunyeroo Gorge is one of the main gorges which runs through the Heysen Range towards Lake Torrens.
As we drive through the gorge the trees are magnificent. The gums are huge. The pine trees line up along the creek and the road.
As we drive through the Gorge the size of the limestone cliffs either side look awesome.
The creeks we cross have large stones and it’s easy to see how high the water level got to the last time the creek flowed.
Continuing on we came to Brachina Gorge which was just as inspiring as the Bunyeroo Gorge. It’s wonderful to see it close up. Not to be scrambling over rocks and boulders!
We passed as few cars and came upon a group of young cyclists from St. Peter’s School in Adelaide. They were doing over 300 km over their 10 days in the area. They were young , enthusiastic and will sleep well at night!
After we left the Gorge area we spotted a vine growing along the road. It’s a Paddy melon which is a poisonous fruit for humans and most animals.
We stopped for a picnic at the curiously named Dingly Dell. It sounds so Irish. There are little picnic tables set up through the Gorge and in the turnoffs to lookouts. So thoughtful!
Nearby we spotted a camper with their washing strung out capturing the lovely sun and breeze. Perfect.
We drove, we pottered, we left the car for little walks and we returned to Wilpena Pound for a walking tour of the historic homestead.
All the tours at Wilpena are conducted by local Adnyamathanha people. Local guide John McKenzie says Adnyamathanya’s made up of two indigenous words: Adnya, meaning rock, and mathanya, meaning people.
Guide John. A great storyteller.
Wilpena Pound itself is an immense horseshoe-shaped feature known locally as Ikara. It was once used by pastoralists as a natural stock pen. Today, it’s the jewel in the crown of this rugged landscape.
Six years ago, the traditional owners of this land acquired Wilpena Pound Resort.
It allows locals, who’re fiercely proud of their heritage, to share their knowledge of culture and country directly with tourists.
John is good at sharing his heritage with us. Helping us understand what it was like for the local mob when the white pastoralists arrived at the Pound.
They worked for the pastoralists on what had been their land. We toured the remains of the building that made up the farm.
The stone work is so distinctively South Australian.
John told us the story of the creation of Wilpena Pound. it differed somewhat from the geological description offer by scientists but is a Dreamtime story passed down by the local mob.
Long before the coming of white settlers to Wilpena, there was an old Kingfisher Man called Yurlu who lived in the west near Kuyani territory. He journeyed south from his home at Kakarlpunha (Termination Hill) to attend an important Malkada (corroboree) at Ikara (Wilpena Pound). Passing through Brachina Gorge on his way to the ceremony, Yurlu saw two giant serpents (Akurra) travelling in the same direction. The snakes scared him and he hid behind low hills until they passed.
Yurlu stopped to light a big signal fire to inform his people that he was coming. The charcoal of that fire remains today in the form of the massive coal deposits that have been mined for decades at Leigh Creek.
Passing through Brachina Gorge on his way to the ceremony, Yurlu saw two giant serpents travelling in the same direction. The snakes scared him and he hid behind low hills until they passed. The two Akurra (male and female) were so bloated by the feast that they coiled up, and died. They now form the ring of hill surrounding the Pound.
It’s a great story and it’s important these stories are passed down.
After the tour we walked back to the resort or Chalet as it was originally called stopping to admire the trees.
The main resort building with large restaurant.
Another sunset beckoned so we climbed the hill behind the camp ground and were rewarded with a sun streaked sky.
Returning through the camp sites I was rather pleased I wasn’t the camper in the blue one man tent.
A late night in Kalgoorlie led to an early start in Rawlinna.
Clickity clack Clickity clack. Our train clicked away during the night. It’s funny how during the day it seems so calm and the night time turns the train into a Rockin’ rollin’ adventure.
The sunrise over Rawlinna was gorgeous. Soft light makes the deserted town beautiful.
We were off the train by 6.30am. It was cold!
The only sign of life on the deserted platform was a horse. He stood patiently letting us pat him as our entertainer set up then played country & western.
We drank hot tea and ate bacon egg rolls as we sang along and wondered why we had got out of a cosy bed! But how could you miss this little piece of the Australian outback. Very special.
The more energetic of us stretched our legs walking along the deserted dirt road of this huge sheep station. I was hoping someone could fill us in on details about this sheep station on the edge of the Nullarbor. I have since found out it is more than 2.5 mil acres in size with 65,000 sheep!
Today it was us and a horse at the railway station.
Back on board we dived back under the doona as the sun came through the window.
Lunchtime came and gave us a chance to chat to our fellow travellers and make some connections. Cath thought she knew me but her husband said she thinks she knows everyone.
Sitting on the jailhouse rock.
A second stop at Cook. This place has a population of 4. There are a few houses there which get used by railway works from time to time. Someone has a good sense of humour. There were signs around the empty town including one our side as male and female jail. In between was the musical ‘jailhouse rock’.
Miranda said I reminded her of her mum who, like me, loves a red lipstick! Miranda is a nurse from Manchester who despite 20 years of living in Perth still has a strong accent. She’s talkative and funny – the kind of nurse who would keep you entertained but take no nonsense!
More cards in the afternoon before cocktail hour! Today I had a margarita and was surprised that Jill, who only ever has one half strength coffee a day, had an expresso martini. It had two full shots of coffee and 2 tablespoons of brown sugar. Jill was later seen dancing on tables!!!!
It was our last night together on holidays and we were celebrating our great trip. If you’ve missed out please go back and read the earlier blogs on the Gibb River Road.
We have travelled over 4,300 kilometres. Over dusty roads, had several boat trips, swum in at least 8 gorges and in the ocean 7 times, waded in a tunnel creek, had two light plane trips, one epic train trip, enjoyed wine, beer and cocktails. Eaten too many chips! Had lots of laughs and card games and really enjoyed our travel buddies Chris & Jill.
Dinner was delicious. Lamb shanks! No chips. Beautiful Moss Wood wine and lots of chat.
A great cickity clack sleep and an early arrival in Adelaide. Our lively lovely crew including Layla, Georgia. Nick ….. farewelled us. It’s been great.
We have a few days with Steve’s sister before heading off to Wilpena Pound – a little sight seeing and a ride on the Pichi Richi rail journey in Quorn.
Keep following readers…… Wilpena is known as the jewel in the Flinders Rangers
Pick up from our hotel in Fremantle is part of the Platinium service for the Indian Pacific. We are being spoiled on this trip! So naturally we’ve been looking forward to this train journey for quite some time.
We arrive at East Perth Station and are checked in with Layla a lovely young girl wearing an Akubra hat. We are in carriage I, cabin 4.
First sight of the train.
It’s 9 a.m. when we board the train and the Bollinger has been popped. People start to smile. The service team introduce themselves and the guests start to chat. It may be expensive but the treatment is first class.
Our cabin is small but perfectly laid out. Our comfy seats face the way the train will be going and every little convenience has been included.
The seats fold out to become the bed.
It’s not long before it lunch time. the food is lovely.
The menu cover. A sample menu. I had the camel curry! It was delicious.
Of course lunch was a accompanied by another Bollinger or two. This was followed by a nap!
We met some fellow travellers. Miranda and Gavin from Perth are on board celebrating a birthday. They are lowering the average age and look like fun – enjoy a drink and a chat!
Val & Jim from Melbourne are lovely and we swapped lots of stories. There are other keen train enthusiasts who are on their 2nd, 3rd and even 4th journey – the Ghan north to south and the Indian Pacific east to west !
Some are travelling Premium because they no longer like climbing up to a bunk style bed. I can identify with that feeling.
Card playing had become our afternoon or evening activity and it has continued. Today we multi-tasked! There was a trivia competition hosted by the resident guitar-playing entertainer. We played cards, played trivia and drank Bollinger.
Tonight after dinner we arrived into Kalgoorlie around 9 p.m. We left the warmth of the train for a tour of cool Kalgoorlie with Katherine.
She drove through the dark streets pointing out sights we couldn’t see. She told us stories and used the word ‘actually ‘ more times than necessary. She’d had a long day and sounded exhausted. We were all thinking our Katherine needed to be home in bed.
First stop was a yard housing a small museum and theatre where two locals put on a play about the discovery of gold by Paddy and Tom. Unfortunately it needed a better script & better actors.
Next stop was the giant pit. We went to a viewing platform but with few lights on it was hard to see anything. The photos told the story of a pit that is 5 km long, 2 km wide and 1 km deep.
The whole tour was ‘actually’ underwhelming. It would have been more effective to have an audio on the bus. We should have listened to fellow travellers Miranda and Gavin who were staying on the train in their cabin with a glass of wine and a Netflix movie.
Couldn’t wait to get back to the train, have a warm shower and tumble into bed.
Our stay in Fremantle was supposed to be warm. Was supposed to be spent with a ferry trip to Rottnest Island. A little swim.
The Esplanade Hotel
Weather has a way of changing things around. The ferry service is cancelled so we changed our plans.
Friday night we went to Nedlands for dinner with some old friends of Chris and Jill. We had a great night and some lovely soup. Not a chip in sight.
Saturday morning called for a sleep in. Our hotel – The Esplanade – is large and old and right near the old town on one side , the park and marina on the other.
We made our way, in the unaccustomed cool breeze, to the Moore and Moore Art space and cafe. There was a good watercolour exhibition on where we spent a few minutes before ordering breakfast.
It was the first cooked breakfast we’ve had so we all enjoyed tucking into eggs.
The streets are old and lined with lovely shops and cafes. Lots of bookshops and quirky shops like a map shop – where we lost Steve but all ended up enjoying. A gentleman’s shop with shoes and other accoutrements. A few galleries and our planned stop – the Palace Cinema.
Funny to go to the cinema on holidays but we thought it could be raining all day! We saw Maigret – about the French detective. It was slow and mysterious.
Coming out an hour or so later the skies were blue and the wind was blowing. We went browsing a little more and managed to do a little retail therapy. The streets had a Saturday buzz about them.
We saw the markets. It’s always good to walk through markets. These aren’t as big or colourful as the Adelaide Markets but it’s a good way to pass the time under cover while the rain poured outside.
Chris and Jill’s friends arrived at the hotel for afternoon tea. Sitting in the foyer is a good place to see people – both local and tourists. There was a Year 11 formal on so the young students were posing for photos, the boys looking dapper and the girls looking much older than their age – in beautiful long dresses.
Feeling a little peckish we headed up Essex St. to Nuncio. It’s a lovely Italian restaurant serving very good Italian food. The best Carnarvon scallops, prosciutto and pasta dishes.
I’d been told about Darling Darling – a whiskey bar nearby, so we braved the now very strong gusty winds and made our way past shops and restaurants.
Sadly there was a line to get in! We don’t do lines so back to our hotel for a nightcap. We have to reorganise our bags for tomorrows Indian Pacific journey.
Pity about the late night party in the room adjacent to ours where the group of people gathered on their verandah at around midnight and proceeded to party hard.
Not good for sleeping……. so I made a call to reception! It took awhile but they eventually settled down.
frans travel tales 