A Pearl of a Day.

Pick up at 8.20 and we were on our way to Broom Airlines. Our substitute trip to Horizontal Falls was on.

There were two groups of 4. One being our group the other another 4 from Brisbane.

Our flying mosquito

Our two pilots introduced themselves – Michael and Bayley, a couple of young mavericks who looked like they’d just hurried from bed to be there!

No safety talk. Just a ‘listen carefully if I tell you something’ and out we walked to the plane. Or a mosquito as I referred to it. Tiniest plane I’ve ever been on. And quite old looking. Oh well we trust our Top Gun pilot.

Chris up front with our pilot

And with a quick tuneup we were off and away. It was a beautiful day. Clear blue skies, not a cloud and no wind – perfect.

We all had our headphones on with a little mic to talk to Michael and each other.

The colours below were wonderful

We flew over a crocodile park, a meat works, lots of trees, aboriginal communities.

We continued north over Derby and into Horizontal Falls. Stunning blue waters, the tidal rush between the 10 metre wide rock faces were making a surf like effect. This was where the jet boat hit the rock face.

The twin entrances at Horizontal Falls.

We saw the pontoon and houseboat we were meant to stay on.

Pristine water with pontoon & houseboat

We circled around and around taking in the beauty of this place. So many little islands. This cluster of many islands is known as the Buccaneer Archipelago.

We double backed towards Cygnet Bay. This beautiful area is home to the pearl farm that produces some of the most valuable pearls in the south seas.

We landed at a little red dirt airstrip and were collected in a small bus and taken to the pearl farm for a tour and lunch.

Cygnet Bay Pearl farm began when Dean Brown headed north of Broome in 1948 and started pearling. His son Lyndon Brown was the first non Japanese to culture a pearl.

Now it takes the provenance of each pearl very seriously. They can tell you the location found, size, lustre, blemishes of each pearl. They run a very impressive business.

Our guide Stephen has worked for the company for quite a few years and is passionate about this industry.

He took us through the steps that are needed to have a good pearl. It takes several years of caring for the oysters to help them grow a good pearl.

He opened 3 oysters before he found a pearl.

We then had a lesson in identifying the features of a pearl. Lustre, shape, colour, size, surface. Each one plays a part in the value of a pearl.

We moved into the gallery shop where I took my time to find something that ‘spoke’ ’ to me. Find something? I did. For my 0 birthday later this year. ……… all shall be revealed later.

The shape of the pearl determines its value

We had a lovely lunch in the little restaurant upstairs overlooking the beautiful bay.

View from the restaurant

While Jill and I contemplated a swim – as nice as it looked we decided not to get all wet for our trip back. We decided on a Prosecco instead to celebrate my purchase.

We headed back to the red runaway and in the blink of an eye Michael had us up in the sky.

We followed the coast back and marvelled at the colours and the effect the huge tides have on the coast line and the sand and mangroves.

We flew over two islands with iron ore mining being carried out.

As we headed further south we saw a few campers with their 4 wheel drives. How remote they are. How lucky they are to have these areas to themselves.

The colours of the tidal waters is amazing

We flew over our resort and a few minutes later we landed.

A perfect trip.

Back at Cable Beach we headed to the pool for a swim and a cocktail before our second flying treat for the day. A trip to the local outdoor theatre Sun Cinema an outdoor theatre. Tonight the movie was ……Top Gun: Maverick. What a great movie to finish off our flying adventure.

We sat in canvas deck chairs eating pizza sipping a beer under the clear skies. Twice planes flew overhead – so appropriate to the movie!

Waiting for the movie.

We all loved it. Even Tom Cruise.

Last day on the Gibb.

I have made packing up after each stop easy . The secret is not too many clothes and keep everything handy on the top of the bag in the same position!

Our last day on the Gibb River Rd and we want to fit as much in as possible.

Talking to other travellers we decided we must detour and visit Windjana Gorge to see the crocodiles and to Dimalurru to visit Tunnel Creek.

Breakfast included making a simple sandwich for lunch as there is nothing between here and Derby. Not a shop or petrol station. Nothing.

As we are packing the car I got chatting to a lady filling her water containers. We compare trips and I told her we are disappointed to be missing our house boat stay at Horizontal Falls because of the jet boat accident.

She shocked me by telling me they were there and her husband was on the boat.

She went on to describe the horrific scene as the boat with many injured people limited back to the pontoon. Many women with fractures in their lower limbs. It sounded awful. No wonder they are not ready to reopen. The staff are all traumatised and needing time off.

We are thankful it wasn’t us on board & the woman I spoke with was always very grateful she didn’t want a jet boat experience that morning.

So off we went – an hour drive back to the Gibb Rd turned toward Derby and the half an hour later turned left to Windjana.

The park is beautiful. The limestone walls so impressive.

The approach to the Gorge is through a small tunnel of limestone walls. it’s like entering a magical world.

Out the other side and a peaceful walk along the river bank keeping an eye on the opposite bank. The crocodiles are lazing and sunning themselves. Lots of them.

About 7 crocs sunning

We walked along for about 15 mins. Such beautiful scenes.

Next stop Tunnel Creek. This place I remember being talked about because of a boy called Jandamarra. He was with his mob when they were captured. He escaped into the tunnel where the creek flows under the limestone hills. It was written as a children’s book years ago.

To get to the tunnels you need to climb and clamber over rocks. They are the most amazing colours: pinks, grey, blue even a greenish look.

Then a wade through water into the tunnels. Quite creepy. We looked out for the red eyes of the resident croc.

Lunch was a simple sandwich outside under the trees. We are so lucky with the weather warm but not too hot.

From here it was a short but fairly boring straight drive into Derby. We were told that it’s not the most exciting place to be and to be sure to lock up well. Didn’t sound too good!

Sunset at Derby pier

We arrived in time to see the town in the afternoon light. Everything looks good bathed in a glowing sky. Then to our hotel the Derby Lodge. Not a lot of good things to say about this hotel. Except pretty ordinary.

We crossed the road to the Spinifex Hotel for dinner and made an early night of it. It was a big day of driving.

In the morning we walked to the local CWA markets, an oasis and spent a very happy hour. Such nice people and the Boab nut coffee was great as were the donuts and the home made slices.

There was music provided by the Rusty Nails, and sitting under the shade of a tree chatting to other travellers was as usual very interesting.

We walked back to get the car and of course we two retired children librarians popped into the library .

A welcoming library in Derby
Mark Norval’s art work.

We’d been told to visit Norval Gallery and we are so glad we did. What an interesting story behind Mark Norval the owner. He and wife Mary went to Derby as young teachers and never left. He now has this wonderful art space where local aboriginal people are welcome to come and paint. He travelled to many of the communities along the Gibb River area and taught painting and encouraged painting and it’s really taken off. There are some wonderful people doing great work. Edna Dale and her daughter Petrina Bedord. I bought one I couldn’t resist.

With Edna Dale and my new painting.

We spent a long time chatting to Mark about his life & work in Derby. He is so kind. So understanding of the problems facing the indigenous youth.

He has mentored Edna Dale mother of 7 and her daughter Petrina an up and coming contemporary indigenous artist. Her grandfathers Jack Dale and Paddy Bedford were famous in their field of art. Watch out for her. She paints in a style to reflect stories of Windjana passed down to her.

Petrina was painting in the art shed while we were there. Lovely to watch.

We also bought some decorated boab seed pods – such beautiful work.

We left the gallery and continued on our way to the prison Boab tree. A very sad story about indigenous peoples imprisoned in the tree.

Onto Broome. We have an extra night here as our planned night in a houseboat at Horizontal Falls was cancelled.

Sunsets are spoken about here more than anywhere else – except maybe Santorini! So we set out to find it. After checking into the Oaks at Cable Beach we drove along the coast to the port.

Broome is also famous for its dinosaur footprints. We went dinosaur hunting. It took us to Roebuck Bay.

Notice the rock behind. It has a face!
The light was soft and gorgeous

We decided to head to the fishing club for a sundowner. It not well known to tourists. It’s where the locals head. I’d read about it and it turned out to be perfect. Casual and a beautiful setting. One glass of Prosecco led to another led to fish and chips.

And so a perfect start to Broome has begun.

From Mt Elizabeth to Mt Hart

We left Mt Elizabeth and headed to Mt Hart but we decided to refuel at Barnett Roadhouse. Coffee. So hard to get on the Gibb River Road!

While there we got chatting to some travellers – so easy to do on these travels. It’s like everyone bonds over their shared experiences on this amazing Road running through remote areas.

We decided to follow their advice and buy a $10 permit to visit the Manning River Gorge and swim in the river.

It was only a 10km drive to the river and what a surprise. It was just lovely.

The campground is right at the river and the banks are sandy not all rocky like others. To do the gorge walk to the waterfall you cross the river. It’s quite deep so to help walkers get across dry they provide a boat and a line. You put your gear or yourself in the boat and pull yourself across the river. Simple.

We spend a good hour swimming around this beautiful river, chatting to people crossing it.

We pull ourselves out , change and head back to the roadhouse for lunch.

The turn off to Mt Hart is further down the Gibb River.

We continue on looking forward to a night under canvas.

El Questro Here We Come

Steve and I started the day with a swim. This really is a magic spot. Our little villa was wonderful so feeling rested we walked up the green grassy hill to the pool

On a hill nearby a group of 20 were gently chanting and doing yoga.

Feeling cool and just a little sad to be leaving this beautiful place we headed off towards Argyle Homestead.

This homestead has been rebuilt. It’s the home of the famous Durack family. It’s 5 minutes from Lake Argyle and was relocated because the original site is now underwater. It is now Lake Argyle.

It’s made of stone and is really quite big for a home built on an isolated property so many years ago.

The history of the Durack family is told and what a history it is. Patrick or ‘Patsy’ drove cattle from Queensland taking two and a half years before settling in land in the Ird River area.

We decided we had time to go to Wyndham the very big port right at top of Australia. It became the port all cattle exports left from. We expected a bigger town but it was small with not too much happening.

We started with a view of the town from Five river lockout. S sweeping view of the area showing the effect of an 8 metre tide rise and fall.

W got a few more supplies at the only supermarket in town and a few beers at the bottle shop.

We’d been told the bakery was a must so stopped and had a laugh at the roof decorations.

The woman who owns the bakery is a little pocket rocket who loves a chat as she rushes around clearing plates from those of us who sit inside to enjoy our pies! she’s also a joker teller as he two signs outside the shop declare ‘two wifi engineers got married. The reception was fantastic.

Jill and I shared a crocodile pie and a lemon pepper barramundi pie. Quite delicious and filling.

Two more stops , the first at the huge bronze statues the next at the Afghan cemetery.

These statues are huge and wonderful – the hair is curly wire.

Arriving at El Questro was full of anticipation. It’s 16 from Gibb Rd and crosses several creeks. It’s bumpy, it’s dusty and excitement outside.

It looks like tent city circling around reception, a bar, a few cabins, a cantina food truck and a big grassy relaxing area leading down to some creek ponds. Our swimming pool.

Our station room is next to the restaurant which made me think ‘oh no it will be noisy’. There’s no worry about that. Because

1. Everyone I’m camping areas go to bed early 2. The restaurant is closed. They can’t get enough staff. If anyone reading this can cook I’ve found a job for you.

Enjoyed a grilled Barra a game of 500 and a good sleep.

Bicheno to Bridport

My day started with a wonderful walk on the beach. The sun was shining and it was peaceful. I headed down the steps straight onto the beach.

The surf club is just a few doors along from Ginetta’s house. It’s simple and practical and this morning had buckets of gear in front of it.

Local swimmers had already made their way into the very cool water. I had heard Shane Gould lived here and swam every day.

There in the water I spotted her ( well it looked like her and sounded liked her) she waved and encouraged me to join them for a swim.

If the water temperature was above 22 I would have joined them but 17 is way too cold for me. So I waved and continued walking.

I clambered over rocks and enjoyed the view.

I headed for the headland following the swimmers and hoping to see a whale before walking back through the small town.

Ginetta’s house on the left behind the sandy beach.

Back for breakfast at the outdoor breakfast bar. This is a magic spot.

Morning tea at St Helen’s another pretty seaside town.

Morning tea at St Helen’s

A stop at the Shop in the Bush for a browse of the very well presented collection of jewellery, books, bric a bac. In fact it has everything.

Onto The Pub in the Paddock. A bit of an institution it a character pub set in lovely green pastures.

It features pigs! A bit like the Pondering Frog had frogs. Here there are pigs!

After a cosy lunch in front of the fire we headed to Pyengana dairy. They produce milk and lovely cheeses.

We bought a cheese plate to go with the Aperol Spetiz we are planning tonight.

The Blue Lake was our next stop.

The colour is a result of the minerals from mining days. It’s beautiful.

We detoured into Musselroe Bay along a dirt road through a National park. It’s a quiet fishing community where every house seems to have a boat outside it.

Kangaroos abound.

Last stop as the sunshine came out was Bridport. Another fishing community, it’s a lovely holiday spot. Well maintained parks and playgrounds. Golf courses nearby.

Our accommodation is a little cottage just off the Main Street. A great little place.

Cool Tasmania – with a Very Warm Welcome

Our plane was on time and as we walked down the stairs onto the tarmac we were reminded that Tasmania is much further south than Queensland. So much cooler.

The walk into the terminal seemed rather long for such a small airport. The security guards were ready for us with questions about covid. Have we been in high alert sites? No. Do we have any symptoms? No. Were we carrying any fruit or vegetables? 😅No. They are just as aware of passing germs to their fruit as much as covid to their people.

We were cleared and stepped outside to a warm welcome from Ginetta & Stephen. We haven’t seen them since before their 2020 year spent in France & Italy. We were meant to catch up in Edinburgh last year but no such luck.

We had a little tour of the docks and things are looking beautiful down by the water. Through Battery Point and along the waterfront to Sandy Bay.

Their house is beautiful. Newly renovated since I was last here. After the downstairs flooded they had to replace floors and carpets and have rearranged rooms. It’s lovely. Ginetta is a collector and has lovely pieces from her travels. They also have a library! With a bar and a sunny corner. We might not want to leave here.

After a delicious Italian style lunch the boys went into Hobart to visit the Mawson Hut and the Lark Whiskey Distillery. Ginetta & I had coffee with a friend from ADFAS. The arts society we are members of.

When the two Stephens arrived home it was Aperol time.

Sitting with a beautiful view we are very happy to be in Hobart

Night out in Tharga

After the day’s activities at the muster we decided to join the party at the Bulloo River Hotel.

Walking the 700 metres to the hotel from our cabin site we started to wonder if it was really on. It was so quiet. But as we approached we saw 4 wheel drives lining the street.

Then the hum of voices from the lawn area adjoining the hotel.

Excitement mounting, we entered the hotel, bought a beer and moved to the outdoor area. There must have been 20 tables of 20 people eating and drinking trying to keep warm in the chilly night air.

The food was a roast & veg. We joined the queue and got our paper plate and were served by the volunteers – varying ages but all friendly.

We joined a table towards the back of the area – near the fire pits and got lucky. We sat with some lovely locals. Sue from Charleville, Lisa from Cunnamulla, both mental health nurses for Qld Health. Their husbands were there and made us very welcome.

Boy! They had some interesting stories about life in country towns.

Apparently Thargomindah is well run – with a local mayor and a policeman who do a great job. the Policeman has 5 children at the local school which brings its number to 25 and keeps it open.

The local council actually pay teacher salaries otherwise Qld education would close the school. Not viable! So the community subsidies the teachers.

We ate and drank and eventually too cold to stay we headed back to the cabin to watch the second half of the Wallabies game. And they won against France!!!

It was great spending time talking to locals. It’s not easy living in a remote community.

Tomorrow we head to Charleville.

Thursday on LEI

Weather plays a big part of your enjoyment of an island.

We’re lucky we’ve had lovely warm mornings but unfortunately we have had rainy afternoons which really limits what you can do.

There was a little drama today and a lady on the snorkel tour had to be assisted. She swallowed water. Next thing the RACQ care flight was there and she was airlifted to Maryborough.

Fortunately we like to read. Steve has been gifted the Gin puzzle by Frances and made a great start. And this afternoon he finished!

I went wandering between rain showers. There is a games room which is underwhelming. Quite a few books are available but not many games. Unless the other holiday makers have them out.

Card players have an option! I think the staff could offer a few wet weather screenings of videos about the reef or sea life.

By late afternoon we headed over to the lighthouse for drinks and were happy the rain stayed away.

With our pre dinner G& T we broke open the pack of cards. I’ve never been much of a card player but I’m keen to learn. Ralph & Frances patiently explained the rules of 500 and we had a few games before dinner.

The meals have been good. Several choices each night. Tonight: roast pork, chickpea tagine, beef stroganoff and lots of fresh vegetables.

Then a short movie on the way plastic fragments are found in our oceans. Music & narration by Jack Johnson. I’ve been a big JJ fan so that made it easy to watch.

We had a ‘late’ night tonight playing 500 and I’m keen to try again tomorrow. Rain is predicted so I’m sure I’ll get a chance.

Holidays at Home

Exciting times. We’re going away.

We are going on our first little holiday in a long long time.

Travel for everyone has been postponed this year. Our Qld borders are closed so we can’t go out of the state without quarantining for 14 days on return. So it’s Queensland – a beautiful big state, we have to explore.

Finally we are heading off. A road trip with our Sri Lanka travelling friends. We’re missing Anne & John Dunphy who live in Melbourne and they are still in lockdown. They can’t go anywhere. They can follow along from the comfort of their lounge looking out over their beautiful country garden.

The group in Sri Lanka last November.

This holiday has been in the planning stage for awhile but today we are hitting the road. 14 people in total, in 6 cars. We are the only ones travelling in an open top car. Our British Racing Green 1970 MGB will have everyone queuing up for a turn to drive or be a passenger!

Planning was started by the Graces who concentrated on stops for good food and drink places, Jill and Helen found accomodation, map man Steve helped plan the route and I booked a few activities. Namely the Bundaberg Rum distillery and Kalkimoon Gin distillery along with finding a few open gardens.

We’re heading north towards Maryborough with our first stop for coffee at Kenilworth.

Kenilworth is NW of Nambour about an hour and a half from Brisbane in the heart of the Mary River Valley. it boasts dairy farms , olive groves and vineyards. It’s also home to the cheese factory, yoghurt and Ice cream factories!

On a Sunday it’s full of people out for a drive. The bakery is famous not only for its baked goods. It for its wall art.

We got talking to the owner who pointed out all the famous faces in

We have christened the trip the ‘Empty Eski Trip’. We are taking along eskis hoping to find products we can spend up on and bring home. Three things we know we’ll find are Kenilworth cheese, Bundaberg Rum and Kalkimoon Gin!

Kathy takes over the driving from Steve.

The line up at the bakery was out the door so we moved on down the hill to the cheese factory and enjoyed coffee in the garden as Steve gave out the road maps and lollies for the tour!

The cheeses here are great so we made a few purchases for our evening drinks before heading off in convoy north towards the Theebine pub where we will stop for lunch.

It was a great pub but oh so slow.

There was a small stage and a local woman and man took turns entertaining us with country & western hits or well known songs from the past. This was a distraction whilst we waited , and waited for our lunch.

We waited around 1.5 hrs! So our food tasted magnificent when it finally came. Apparently they are getting a new kitchen soon with a big grill so they can cater for the number of people who crowd in each weekend. Too bad for us the kitchen hasn’t arrived just yet.

The music was fun and the juke box was a classic. A choice of songs. …..

All about beer!

We had time to explore the old pub and loved the letter from a mother to her son.

Back in our cars we drove north stopping at another pub at Tiaro. Another classic.

A great beer garden, herb garden , children’s playground. The food looked good. We should return for the Sunday roast.

We arrived into our motel in Maryborough and took over lots of the rooms. Some of us rested and some went walking to explore.

We have dinner booked at the pub next door. Not that we need too much after a late late lunch!