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Back to Paris

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We drove back to Paris and I must say I have been very comfortable driving here. I think I might forget how to drove on the other side when I return! 


We got back and the pace picked up again after the sleepy Sancerre countryside . 

Carmel is in a hotel as I’ve  taken a small flat for the next week and she wouldn’t fit in. 

So I arrived at my apartment for the week and got settled. Its on the left bank on Rue l’universite about two. Streets behind the Musee  D’Orsay. A very nice area full of decorating shops . At least I won’t be tempted to buy – the lamps, rugs footstools, etc are safe from me! Maybe a little chandelier? The apartment turned out to be a winner! I’ll be very happy here. It’s so comfortable Carmel commented if it’s cold I might be tempted not to go out at all! But I promise I will. 

We had afternoon tea, complete with the macaroon with Carmel’s friend Annie. She’s a lovely lady and I’ve really enjoyed meeting her. She is the one who has selected my hairdresser next week! 
Afterwards we had a dinner at a local brasserie. It was rustic French food and I was a little sad as Carmel leaves tomorrow. 
After a bad nights sleep (always bad on the first night for some strange reason) we turned our clocks back for the end of daylight saving.

Goodbye Sancerre and the Loire ….Back to Paris

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We finished our  stay in the wine area of the Loire with two great dinners after exploring the area. 


Thursday night we walked through the rain swept street of the village to arrive at the restaurant La pomme d’or. It was so tastefully set up and we started with a beautiful Savignon and then a Pinot. The food was lovely and the host and her chef husband very friendly .


I have found the French in these small villages really very friendly and more than happy to have a chat. I think it’s because they are starved for conversation because, as I have told you, there are so few people on the streets. They really keep to themselves. But when you find one in a shop or museum they are more than happy to chat on and on.


On Friday night we went to La Tour – a Michelin star restaurant and it was as predicted very good. The food had a refinement that wasn’t there in other very good places we have eaten. 

One star down  four to go!

We packed tonight . Oh boy the bags are shrinking I think! Carmel leaves on Sunday so has to be very good at arranging her bags to get them on the plane. 
Back to Paris tomorrow .

Wednesday

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Up early bright and early to meet Laure who turned out to be a girl/woman. For E45 she was taking us on a wine tour. We called into Joseph Mellot for a quick visit to ask about his wines in Australia then moved on to Bue and the wines of which we learned such a lot with Laure and with the owner – a lovely young man. They have the only egg shaped vats in the area. The other vats are concrete and some double sized steel vats. We had a great explanation of what goes on from the planting growing etc. It’s an amazing industry here and is quite tightly controlled to preserve its quality.

We moved to another place driving though the most gorgeous countryside – picture the rolling gentle hills covered in neatly planted vines some yellow (Savignon) and some green (mostly Pinot) 

The sky is blue there are little statues with crosses of the intersections of the roads. 


Wine growers have vines in different parts of the valley. Some in flint, others in limestone, or clay which all impact on the type of wine. We met another handsome young wine maker and even got to taste the wine at various stages of its fermentation . The wines here were very good and we seriously want to source them in Australia. 

As Laure had been so lovely we invited her join  us for lunch and she suggestion the bistro at Chavignol where we had been on Monday. We continued our chat over a lovely lunch before returning to Sancerre and a little afternoon rest. 
Quiet night tonight I think!!!!!

Exploring around Sancerre

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Lounging at the Loire


Sunday in a small French village is almost a non-event. There is church and everything else is closed. Today we were lucky. There were some antique markets which we wandered around spying some good furniture and little else. They were more flea markets than antiques. 


We then drove down the hill and had a beautiful omelette for lunch before going to the local festa / fete  which was chocolate!

It was held in the new cultural centre in Saint Saturnin.  The locals were all there and after passing through the entry hall decorated with fake autumn trees we got to the hall. Different chocolate makers were there showing their wares . 
We tasted our way around the room.  Lots of samples. And a few purchases later we left for a little drive .
We ended up at another lovely little village Chavignol – home of the goats cheese.  We visited the cheese makers and saw all the different types cheese called crottin de chavignol AOC The new cheese and the older cheese with mould growing on it! We bought a few for later! 
We stopped in at a rather lovely gallery and had a good chat to the owner who gave us lots of information about the area – including a pottery area nearby.
Monday we went for a drive to Cosne-Cours and did some supermarket shopping. Such a beautiful drive. Country roads lined with autumn coloured trees. Vines growing in neat little rows in small “patches”. Some green and some yellow.
We continued on to La Borne – a centre for pottery. It was beautiful though the pottery was not all modern. It reminded me of the 70 ‘s style pottery wine glasses and heavy pottery plates. The main centre had an exhibition and one of the exhibitors – a Japanese man whose work was modern and rather impressive. Will try and include a photo .

When we returned we had a visit to the Maison de Sancerre. For those readers who don’t know this area, Sancerre is famous for its wines in particular their white- the Savignon Blanc and the Pinot. They had a wonderful display with animated films and lots of information. We wanted to be a little informed because on Wednesday we are going on a wine tour. We finished  with a little wine tasting at Joseph Mellot one of the biggest growers and wine maker in the area and went to his restaurant for dinner. Very good Food and wine.

Tuesday was foggy so we had a slow start and headed off to Bourges. It was a small city with lots to offer. We wandered the medieval streets, visited the rather magnificent cathedral and went on a tour to Jacques Cours house. He was a wealthy man in the 1500’s who built a rather magnificent house, on the fruits of his trading business . 
Got home at 7.30 and surprise – we cooked our own dinner! 

Last day in Paris

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I love Paris – as the song goes ….. I love Paris in the rain! Luckily as it has rained almost everyday. Not really heavy just a little bit. 


Still we are getting out and seeing lots .

Some of the highlights:

Having lunch with Monique a young 26 year old friend of Peter and Carmel. She has a great job in Paris and had lots of stories to tell us about life in Paris – oh to be young! 
Tuesday night we went to dinner at Annie and Serge’s flat, with their children Fabian 27 and Camille 23. Camille did an exchange and lived at the Harrison’s for 10 weeks. They are a lovely couple and we had lots of champagne and a beautiful dinner with a view of the Eiffel Tower. We started with a black skinned faddish and page. A pork cheek dish and five cheeses and then a strawberry tart! We walked a lot today. 
Wednesday we met Annie for lunch at Madeleine and after she took me to her hairdresser to make an appointment for next week . Yes readers, I’m to have the French stylist and colourist! Just a little worried about the cost but it’s not every day I have my hair done in Paris.
Went to a Vivaldi concert at St Chappell. What a wonderful experience. Heavenly . 
Thursday we met Jill and Chris again after their Croatia trip . Lovely treat to spend the day together. We went shopping for gifts for their daughters at a gorgeous little shop in the Marais, walked to the left bank and had lunch, then explored the area I’ll be returning to the week after next.
Thursday night we had dinner at Montmartre and then went to Moulin Rouge. What an experience ! We had to queue with everyone despite booking tickets . In we went to a huge theatre restaurant style place got our good table, ice bucket with 3 bottles of champagne, and then the show started . It was colourful, fast, fun and an eyeful! Spotted Morgan Kenny – daughter of Lisa and Grant. Such a pretty girl with big …… blue eyes. 
Got home at 2.30 am so had to sleep in the next day . Took the number 69 bus all around the streets of Paris. What value for the price of a bus ticket. 
Last dinner was at the same place as the first night. Very good food and waiters really friendly.
So now it’s goodbye to Paris for a week. Carmel and I are off to the Loire to a little place called Sancerre well known for its goats cheese and its white wine. Picking up a car tomorrow and off we go! 

Paris is beautiful

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We have settled into our lovely apartment in Rue de Trensor in the Marais area. It’s is a lively part of the Marais but in a small pedestrian street which makes it quiet. It’s on the 4th floor – with a lift and is in an old building . It has a lovely sitting room with comfortable seating  a tiny kitchen , good sized bedrooms and the smallest bathroom and separate toilet I have ever seen . Peter, Carmel and I are getting along in this lovely place very well.
We can walk to lots of things. Shops, restaurants, the metro , museums etc so we are very happy with our choice. Steve had the day with us on Saturday and we walked around the area and had an early dinner . He gave me the most beautiful roses – so every time I look at them I am reminded of him.

On Sunday it rained and we decided to walk and walk and walk. We were keen to visit the St Martins canal area so went up there – but the rain had everyone indoors and lots of things closed so it wasn’t very lively. We headed  back to Bastille and then across to Place des Voges where it got quite lively with Parisians having lunch.  We tried one of the famous falafals from the institution in Rue de Rositers, the Jewish street . The line was long but moved quickly so we took them home and enjoyed it in th warmth of the apartment. Yum.

Sunday night we went out late for a light bite and had great stir fried veggies !

Monday fined up so we headed off to the Haussmann area and did a little shopping and sight-seeing and bought some tickets for a concert at Saint Chapelle for Wednesday night. Walked a lot and bought new black boots. Pete and Carmel headed off to Montmarte and to the Moulin Rouge to get tickets to the show on Thursday. I’ve never been so we are quite excited! We could only get the 11 pm show so will have to have a nonna nap.

Enjoyed a late dinner at the restaurant opposite the Jeanne de Arc hotel where I stayed with Jan, Marg, Liz, Barb, and Catherine several years ago. I’m thinking of you girls and the fun we had.

Photos

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Chenonceau 

The great hall Chenonceau

Garden at Villandry Chateau

The amazing Chambord Chateau

The view from Chambord

Steve and his mates at Cheverny Castle

The beautiful Cheverny Chateau which is used in the Tin-Tin cartoon books

The beautiful sign outside our “house ” in Amboise
Leonardo relaxing by the river near our house at Amboise

Leaving Amboise

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Our last day and I’ll be sad to say goodbye to Steve as he leaves tomorrow.

Today we went to the BIG one – Chambord – a giant of a Chateau. Rather too large and certainly too cold. Even the owners – over the years a few kings and assorted relatives – decided to only spend a minimum of nights there. One said there were too many mozzies in summer and it was too cold in winter. Despite its beautiful grounds and imposing size I tend to agree.
We also visited Boise – a rather nice town on the river Loire further upstream from Amboise.
Then in the afternoon went to Cheverny – a modest , by comparison , chateau still owned by the same family. It’s rather beautiful and practical and I could imagine living there. Apparently the family still live on the upper level, but I think that’s a bit of a story as the place is open 365 days a year and they would never be able to escape the tourists or let their 3 children run around on the lawn. Again the gardens are lovely but with tourists all over it would be a little difficult to ride your bike around if you were a kid!

Our last evening, we visited Chantal, the owner of our little house, known as ” the little blue door”  anyone coming to this area I recommend you stay here. The views across the river to the castle are magic.

Tomorrow we are up early – for us , as we have been sleeping in till around 9 each day. I hope the Harrison’s are not going to rush out each day from our Paris flat before at least 10!

Keep the emails coming , as I like to get the news. 

From Amboise to Villandry

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Wednesday and Thursday


We woke to rain but crossed our fingers and set off for Villandry. I was very keen to see it after hearing all about it from ADFAS and Margaret. The sun came out and we arrived at this beautiful chateau in a pretty little town. Most of the tourists have gone for the season so parking and entrance is easy. 

We started in the garden and walked and walked . The woods, formal gardens, herb and vegetable gardens and the maze all beautifully laid out. The plans for the veggies is at each garden square so you can easily identify what is growing . The colours and types are carefully set out making it so inviting to see. The veggies are used in the cafe at the side of the chateau which is a nice touch and the usual shop is also a treat as it’s a garden shop. 
Inside the chateau the story of the owners unfolded and as is usually the case an American inheritance helped set up the recovery of the chateau. It’s a good story and the family films of their family weddings etc give it a really personal touch. There were even family photos around which make it more a home. Wonderful experience
After our baguette we headed off to Chinon for another experience  this time a fortress. Very well done with a lot of short dramatisations which for me brought the history alive. These places area amazing in their history – the stories of kings queens, mistresses, illegitimate children all make great reading. Even a re-enactment of Joan of Arc’s visit to Chinon. 
We climbed all the towers and the veiws over the grey and white houses of the town and the green vineyards were the reward! I’d like a euro for all the steps climbed this holiday! Starting back in Lerici where we had 90 steps up to our apartment! (are you reading this Pat?). The steps are doing their bit to make sure I don’t completely turn to mush. And the knee is holding up! 
We got back to our little “blue door” house and prepared for dinner. Another coup de la champagne? 
Thursday 
More rain but we know it will clear so off we go to the chateau where Leonardo da Vinci spent his last 3 years.  It is a small  chateau with the most beautiful garden. His bedroom looks towards Amboise castle which is opposite our little house. 
Chenonceaux. Oh. What a fairy tale place. Long tree-lined walk towards the chateaux  which is perched over the water – looking like a hand or piano keys across the river. The gardens are magnificent and Francois 1 who had it built had fine taste. His 2 wives and mistress all had wonderful bedrooms and the kitchen staff must have loved their part of the house. 
What I have noticed in all the chateau are the flowers. They have the most wonderful  flower arrangements in all the rooms. I have found myself taking photos of the flowers more than the furnishings! They are all colours to suit the colours in the room. Catherine de Medici his second wife had a huge display of red roses in her rather red bedroom. Ginetta , you would love it.