new Orleans

“Take me out to the Ball Game….

/ brisbanefrannie / 4 Comments

Our little apartment is proving to be a cosy nest. Close to everything in the West Village. This morning we decided to explore it a little more.

What better way to start then by walking the 6 mins to Rob and Jordan’s and adding to the walk by going up the six flights to their apartment. You sure would keep fit living there.

They were ready to go to work so…..

Back down stairs and a quick photo.

If you visit NY, an apartment in this area would be great. We’re in Charles St. They’re in Commerce Street.

Other streets around like Christopher, Grove, Waverly are all quiet and have easy access to three metro stations. 14th Street, Christopher St are on the red 1,2,3; and W4th and Washington has blue ACE and orange BDFM. Once you’ve bought a card and loaded it with cash you’re right to go. The subway, buses etc. are an easy system once you know which direction you are going!

Washington Park is nearby and one of my favourite spots. It has a wonderful stone arch, beautiful fountain and areas of lawn for relaxing. And a dog off-leash area where all the locals mix and mingle – dogs and owners.

I love the sign on the grass here.

We walked past the University of NY law school and saw recent graduates fluttering around in their purple robes, stopped for coffee at one of the many coffee places in this area before continuing onto Soho. David Prior, an Australian food writer living nearby recommends Stumptown coffee and Atla for breakfast.

Soho and it’s charming streets – Prince, Mercer, Green, Worster and LaFayette – are littered with lovely boutiques. Some big known names, others new designers. Fortunately for Steve most weren’t open. Hours here are more 11-7pm. Or even 9pm.

Jordan works in this area at Glossier – a skin and make-up company. I’ll be visiting her on Friday so more about that then.

We reached Canal Street and bought a cheap duffle style bag for the extra purchases we’ve made including some birds for the garden! Fibreglass, not live!

A map of the area with a red dot marking Glossier.

By now it was Ball Game time.

So onto the Red1 to Times Square a quick change to the 7 out to Citi Fields, home to the Mets. One of the local baseball teams.

The whole thing was great.

Arriving and walking through the now grey rainy skies to the entrance.

Inside and up the giant elevators to the concourse, past all the food vendors selling beer, sausages , pretzels, cotton candy, supporters gear and cocktails!

We found Lynn and Bill and braved the conditions to sit in our $91 seats a few rows back from the protective net.

Great seats. Pity about the rain. But Barry bought Bloody Marys! Apparently that helps with the now cool conditions and the cheering & supporting!

Lynn and I huddled as she explained the finer points of the game. She’s been a Mets fan for years. She knows a lot!

They were playing the Blue Jays from Toronto where Barry comes – from so Steve became a Blues supporter with Barry.

By the third innings the rest of our swim trekkers had arrived and we knew the local Mets team were struggling. No home runs to 3. Not a great start for them.

Food called – so off to the Shake Shack. All coloured lights and fast food. Burger, hot dogs, beer and nacho! By now the temperature had plummeted, we were cold and sought shelter in cheaper seats under cover.

At the end of the 7th inning they sing. ‘Take me out to the ball game…..’ we all sang with gusto and beer-fuelled voices.

The Mets were still playing like they had celebrated too much after their 12-0 win last night. They play about 4 times a week – at least. It’s big money here so they play them all the time.

Despite many leaving – it was still raining – we stuck it out. We made it to the end and caught the train back into Manhatten.

Steve and I headed home to rest up because we had a dinner date at a restaurant called Blue Hill Farm with Rob and Jordan.

I had heard about it on a podcast with Leigh Sailes. Jordan had also heard about it and as it was close by here Jordan made a reservation a month ago.

It was wonderful. Expensive – yes. An experience- yes again. The food was fresh and simple and just lovely flavours.

There is a four course menu for about $95. I choose the fish followed by artichoke in a delicious sauce followed by pork and a gorgeous raspberry dessert. The restaurant was friendly, not pretentious at all, with an elegant design.

What a lovely night with the new Mr & Mrs Maitland.

Perfect last day in New Orleans

/ brisbanefrannie / 3 Comments

I thought we would get a little rest in NOLA after the wedding last week. I was wrong. It’s been all go. There is so much to see and do and we didn’t want to miss anything.

Today started with packing up our lovely air bnb as we move to a hotel in the French Quarter. Our travelling companions (if they’d come!) were to leave today so we had decided we’d pack up and move to a hotel for our very early start today Saturday 5th.

One last walk along Magazine St with a little shopping before lunch at Shaya. I’d been wanting to visit here as all the reviews and recommendations were so good. It’s an Israeli restaurant and it didn’t disappoint.

It’s modern in decor and the food is delicious. Fresh flavours and great ingredients. I loved it.

After we swapped to our new hotel we headed off on a walking tour with local Andrew and just one other walker. It was the music and art tour of the French Quarter. Andrew grew up in a tiny place a few hours from here. He was fun and knowledgeable and kept us interested for well over two hours.

The walk started in the Louis Armstrong park which has dedicated statues and sculptures to its musical residents.

We heard about the famous Satchmo and other musicians as well as the masks of the Mardi Gras and even about the voodoo religion and it’s symbols

We went on through the quarter across Bourbon St and into the artsy Royal St. there are so many galleries here with great examples of southern art styles including folk art and embroidery art.

We met the lovely Isobel from one gallery and her headpiece was itself a work of art.

Reluctantly we finished walking with Andrew and took an Uber to NOMA – the New Orleans Museum of Art. We could have spent ages here – including the Alexander McQueen exhibition but we came to walk through the Sculpture garden.

There are over 60 sculptures all donated by a couple from NOLA. It’s a beautiful garden with several bridges crossing a lake with the sculptures out in the open and hidden in gardens.

I loved this one which shows a stack of people balancing on each other’s shoulders reaching skywards.

And the big blue safety pin.

The ladder to the window ……..

And Barbara Hepworth, whom we had an ADFAS lecture on last year, had a piece on show.

All interesting.

We dashed back to Preservation Hall for another Jazz show. This was in a very old building has traditional jazz players entertaining a small crowd – and to get a seat you book early which I did. Otherwise it’s standing at the back!

The line up outside before each show made me pleased I’d booked online. No photos allowed inside.

Our last stop for the night was to meet two young friends. Logan, who is Jordan’s cousin, is a chef in NOLA. He and his wife couldn’t get to the wedding but was able to meet us for a drink.

We’ve met him once in Brisbane when he was working in Melbourne.

Then Rae arrived. She and her whole family are great friends of Peter. She got a green card in the lottery and now works in NOLA. She’s into vintage fashion and lots of fun.

We gave Logan and Rae our spare tickets to Jazz Fest. One each! Hope they have fun.

So one Rose too many we made our way through Bourbon St. It was really going off and is like a tacky sideshow alley. You certainly see some sights. Not all of them tasteful!

But the police are there to guard.

Our time is Nuawlins is up. It’s been fun and a great place to visit especially during a rather busy Jazz fest or Mardi Gras time.

Jazz Fest Time

/ brisbanefrannie / 4 Comments

I’ve always wanted to ride on a Yellow school bus. Every since I was a little girl and saw them in tv series and movies. Today it happened. And it took me to Jazz fest.

Come along for the ride.

We pulled up just as music got started around 11. The breeze was blowing, the sun was out and the local jazz lovers were out in force with their chairs, umbrellas, hats, rugs, and coloured beads.

I feel like I did the first time I went to Woodford. Slightly too mainstream!

First stop Gentilly stage with the Alex McMurray big band. Good foot tapping music and a few solo dancers warmed up for the day ahead with a variety of dance moves.

Next stop a change of pace with The Tangiers Combo. A very sexy looking violinist, double bass, clarinet & guitar.

Then on to the biggest arena for the bad boys the Stooges big band. Big attitude. Big sound.

Then it was the Jazz tent and

Jeremy Davenport. A cool dude with a hot trumpet.

Smoking time at the jazz club. Economy’s tent girl singing “Take your time in the sun”

The crowd are mostly over 30. Well actually probably more like over 40. Depends which tent you’re in.

It warm – so the skin is on show and there’s lots of tats and lots hats, sunburn skin, umbrellas and iced drinks and ponytails ( men! )

I’ll try and capture some of the better outfits – some are a treat.

The food stalls are southern style. Plenty of Po boy, catfish, crawfish, gumbo, iced tea, beer, frozen alcoholic cocktails like pina colada’s and Bloody Mary’s. The crowd were getting into it – though I don’t think the Americans drink quite as much as the Aussies.

Lunch for me was a huge bbq turkey wing with….. beans! Steve had a shrimp Po boy.

Next up the kids street band

and back into the tent for the Preservation Band. With a warm up Congo line. I had to resist the temptation to dance along along. Though I did ambush one of the ‘dancers’ –  though he was very sad looking and unimpressed by my request for a photo.

Then back to the Jazz tent for Banu Gibson and her band with special guest Vince Giordano from NY. Apparently they are all really well known trad jazz players. They actually looked more like Doctors! They played a favourite song ‘Baby won’t you please come home.’

Steve got distracted between shows and ended up with a Jazz fest Tshirt before sliding into the Gospel tent for some meaningful music.

Then in the Blues tent the well received ‘The Blind Men of Alabama’.

They may be blind but they can sing and even had someone signing the words to their songs. That was interesting to watch!

But our final two concerts were Lyle Lovett the more country style jazz man ………

Then the big name – Lionel Ritchie. Yes I came all the way to NOLA to see him when he came to the Byron Blues fest.

But there he was singing up a storm with everyone on their feet dancing. It was great.

So that was my day at Jazz Fest. It was so much fun. They love their music here. The crowds were so well behaved and the people here are so friendly.

We made it back to the yellow bus line before Lionel hit the last note.

So it was back to Magazine St to Mahoney’s for a beer and hot dog for Steve and something lighter for me!

Tomorrow’s our last day 😩. But it will be a big one. Lots planned.

Today we have ‘Gone with the Wind’

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Plantations are big here – both in size and reputation. We decided on a Plantation tour and not an alligator tour.

But which house do we visit? I read reviews and decided on Houmas House or the ‘Sugar House’ because it has a big reputation as a great example of a grand home.

I didn’t want to visit one with the slavery story. That is too sad.

We weren’t disappointed. Houmas House is grand and Southern style and the gardens were amazing.

We had an hour bus ride out along the swampy flat land in the direction of Baton Rouge. The driver was a super speedy guy – definitely the stunt driver from the movie Speed!

Arriving at the house was underwhelming at first as there is now an aluminium plant nearby with chimney stacks and smoke!

But pulling into the drive was like stepping back in time. All the attendants wear period costumes and the grounds are heavenly.

There were many sculptures in the garden both playful and decorative. So much money!

We heard the story of the building of the plantation. It’s named after the local Indian tribe. It was mainly a sugar plantation with 1,000 slaves working there. It made a fortune for its owner. It sold after the civil war for $1.5 million. That’s a lot of money for back then.

Our guide Susan took us through the house and had lots of stories. It’s a pity she spoke so fast ! Hard to follow her.

The present owner lives there in two rooms and is up and out each morning before the house opens. He’s not married but loves his dogs. Apart from close friends people don’t know who the owner of the house is or what he looks like.

Another heart thumping trip back to NOLA for a short rest before we went off to dinner. Now that’s a whole other story.