Naoshima. : a full day of art.

Welcome to Naoshima

Staying near the ferry port was a bonus. We had pre booked tickets for 4 museums on the island.

Transport is limited on the island so at the end of this post I’ll give some hints.

We arrived in time to play sardines on the green bus. I can’t believe how people crammed on. But instead of walking it got the worst of the hills out of the way.

We arrived at the LeeYuan art gallery first. It’s austere, minimalist and for me- not really a lover of really modern art just a little hard to understand.

We walked another 20 minutes to the Benesse House Museum. a super modern building but so creative and interesting. The installations and hanging art were great.

Had coffee at Benesse house cafe. Then a little purchase at the beautiful gift shop.

There were some very creative people cruising the gallery
Loved this ….. each phrase flashed up randomly then all come together.

We walked along the coast road and found the iconic pumpkin. Yayoi Kusama is famous for her polka dot art.

There were many colourful sculptures along the way.

We decided to save some time and took the loop bus to the next little port town Honmura. There we started to visit houses – part of the Art House Project.

This began in 1998 with “Kadoya”, and currently comprises seven houses. Artists take empty houses scattered about residential areas and turn the spaces into works of art, weaving in history and memories of the period when the buildings were lived in and used.

Street of the Art Houses.

Going from one of the houses to another, visitors pass through the Honmura district, where everyday life unfolds around them, not only engaging with works of art but also sensing the history interwoven in the community and the fabric of local people’s lives.

Viewing the house means interacting with the locals and presents a sense of community.

Water : an art house project

We decided on lunch and a local told us to try Apron. Set in a regular local house with mum in the kitchen and son as waiter there were only 10 sears.

The food was terrific
Such a perfect little cafe

We wandered the little streets peering through doors and looking at what surprises lay there.

One gorgeous surprise garden

We spotted a notice board with smiley people and their written answers to a few questions.

If whatever you try will succeed what do you really want to pursue.

We went inside and met the artist photographer Kohei Iwata and found ourselves taking part. He was exploring the themes of success, life , motivation and inspiration. We filled out the answer to the question…. Mine was. ‘What big change did you have in your life and how did it inspire you.’ Next thing we were having our photo taken ….

My portrait.

What a wonderful project. So thrilled to be involved.

We moved onto other art houses before climbing at least 80 steps into the New Museum of Naoshima. Again lots of modern concrete spaces spread over several levels. Some fun. Some challenging but very colourful.

Even the crowd were colourful

We walked back down the stairs and saw our green bus sail past! That meant a 30 min standing wait. Then ferry leaving at 5.30. So we had a full day on Naoshima.

Dinner was at our hotel which made it easy. We wore our kimonos as we threw everything in for one last wash!

Sitting at a low feet in the pit table.

I had a rice soup with salmon. Delicious. And a Gin as the lovely waitress said the white wine wasn’t very nice!

Naoshima hints.

If wanting to stay a few days …..there isn’t much accommodation so book early. Or stay at the beautiful Benesse hotel and have a big credit card!

Pre book tickets for the galleries you want to see. this site is great.

https://benesse-artsite.jp/en/

Otherwise stay in UNO Port or at Takamatsu which has ferries to all the art islands.

Look carefully at ferry timetables

On the island can use the bus, bike or walk. There are two buses going clockwise and anticlockwise. Decide which order to see the museum galleries.

You can hire bikes but roads are narrow. Be careful!

Take cash for the buses and ferries. Around 300 yen PP each.

Some of the galleries have cafes but ask a local where to have lunch. You’ll get something good.

Summer would be too hot to be there. There’s a bit of walking and it would be way too hot.

Hiroshima: May it never happen again.

We left the hotel by 8.30 – not really wanting to as we’ve loved our stay here. But new places await.

Hiroshima is a must visit to make everyone aware of the outcomes of war. It’s a very sobering place to visit.

We arrived by a JR Train using our Suica card. Locating lockers is easy with the great signposting. Then headed off by tram for the castle. The city is all new – for obvious reasons. A constant reminder of what happened but in 1941.

We decided, due to time limitations to just walk the castle grounds before moving on to Peace Park and the memorial to the victims lost in the bombing.

One of the most poignant moments was seeing the memorial for the children lost in the bombing and the many who dyed after from leukaemia.

When reading to children in the library I would read the story of Sadako and the Thousands Paper Cranes. When Sadako became ill at 10 her room mate told her about the legend of the thousand paper cranes – if she folded a thousand paper cranes she would be granted a wish. She folded 1,300 but died soon after. Now the paper crane is a symbol of peace. Hope and healing.

There are cabinets of thousands and thousands paper cranes which people are adding to each week.
Today the dome.
Just after the bombing

If you like film try and see the movie called Touch. It’s a beautiful but sad story of a young Japanese woman and Swedish man who fall in love. and the impact of the bomb years before.

We continued on our journey. another train. A Shinkansen.

Heading towards Okayama the McGregors got off at Ominichi. They are cycling for two days.

We continued onto UNO Port. I’m very keen to visit the art island of Naoshima. We’re staying in the port tonight.

A welcome at the station.

Luckily for us we got a booking at Bluno. Recommended by a friend it’s French Japanese food.

A welcome at the station.

Our hotel was a little bit of a mystery. We couldn’t get anything on the island and many hotels here were booked out so we booked at one with a Japanese name.

Turns out it’s small but perfect little rooms. Comfy beds, lovely yakatas and an opening window for fresh air. Just fine for 2 nights.

Taken from my comfy bed. The navy white yakata

We’ll explore a little before heading to Bluno. There is an art trail of outdoor sculptures. Such an interesting place.

Happy with our wine !

Dinner was delicious and lots of fun with the Wilsons as we reminisced about the holidays we have done together.

Tomorrow we head to Naoshima Island just 20 min by ferry. it’s become a destination for lovers of art.

Miyajima Island. A rest day with a view

We arrived here yesterday around 3pm after catching a 9am train from Kyoto. Stopped at Himeji castle then another train and did ferry ride.

Our Hotel Miyajama Villa is opposite the ferry terminal.

It’s a modern Japanese style. I booked is 3 rooms with sea view. I could only get triples with futon. The mattress is on a high ish wooden platform. Quite comfortable.

Very comfortable room

The bathroom set up is different. The sink and vanity and separate toilet is outside the bath and shower room – which is exactly as it sounds. The whole room becomes the shower. Great idea!

We rested up and did washing when we arrived. Most hotels have a pay laundry. You need around 300-400 yen cash for a 30 minute wash and 100 yen for dryer.

Then we had a drink and dinner. The buffet is $99 pp but it worked well. It included all drinks – nice champagne, wine beer

The food selections were not too vast and were divided into a more western style and a Japanese cuisine. Some really nice things.

Oysters are the specialty of this island and we had to have some. They are big and delicious.

Walking around today we saw lots of oyster cafes – restaurants. They grill them here. It’s not the right season for fresh.

We’ll have some tonight with a glass of bubbles. We’re not staying in for the buffet. There are a few restaurants we’d like to try. Getting in with 6 is often the problem. The hotels will book something for us sometimes as it frustrating to just wander sound!

Today , Monday 20th we are doing our own thing. Elizabeth is training for a big walk up Mt Wellington in Hobart so wants to stretch the legs on the walk up the hill / Mt Misen. Steve wants you to go as well but will get the rope way up the half way and walk to the temple on the top.

Chris and Peter are taking it slowly. Jill and I want to explore the back streets ( and tourist street!)

The weather is great so we all set off and Jill and I had a lovely time going in and out of shops along the way.

A cake in the shape of a maple leaf is also popular here. So we watched them being mass made . But no photos allowed. The operation is very slick. Pastry dough is dropped into series of moulds. Moved along then filling is piped in. Then the case is closed. They are picked up and boxed.

Lots of cute food ideas.

There are lots of decorations and wooden practical items such as spoons and ladles in woods like cherry & chestnut. The ceramics are lovely and with the Japanese eye for simplicity they are beautiful.

I tried on a few dresses made of old kimono fabric but nothing suited.

Grilled oysters anyone?

There are lots of food stalls along the way and I wanted to try everything! Not possible. So selected 1. A lemon filled pastry on a stick. Small and delicious!

We got off the main tourist strip and went into the back streets. It’s so different one block back. Small crafty shops. A few cafes

This cafe selling shaved ice with flavourings
Steve and Elizabeth were rewarded with great views.
I enjoyed the back streets

Dinner tonight was terrific. We stayed at an oyster bar for a glass of bubbles and oysters gratin. they were big and beautiful.

Then we made our way into a back street and found the restaurant I’d read about. Okonomiyaki Kishibe. Run by 3 nonnas it is small. It only seats 12. We waited maybe 10 mins and they squeezed us in.

Such lovely ladies put in a real show for us.

Counter seats to watch to the show.
Delicious: egg, cabbage, soba noodles, prosciutto & cheese

We walked home through lateen lit streets feeling full and satisfied.

A slow day but a great one.

Tomorrow ready for Hiroshima.

Travel Hints:

Before you leave home downloaded the Suica app.

This card is used everywhere. Trains (Not fast one) Bus, ferry, all Lawsons, Family Mart ( these shops have everything inc good food on the go )

You do. Try cash out on it as well. Load it up with cash and away you go.

You need cash. Not so much in the bigger cities ( use you suica card) like Tokyo & Kyoto but for all temples, shrines, gardens, smaller shops, room tax in hotel, for paying your hotel to forward your luggage on. Have an easy zip purse for your cash. You get lots of coins.

Bring a decent overnight bag. Not too heavy My Foldie is great. We are forwarding luggage and it can be just a day /not same day but next day deliver. Have an air tag in it to follow its progress! Depending on the size of the case it will cost 300-400 yen. Well worth it.

Shoes : wear comfortable shoes – with side zips as you have to take them off a lot ….mine have been great with their zips.

Mine are Ziera with side zip. Laces stay laced.

Passport: if you buy things over a certain amount you need to show your passport to get the tax taken off.

Trains: the trains are great. If doing your own book when you get here. Have lost of what you want and go to a big station where they have an office with English speakers who help you book all current trains and print out the tickets.

Google Maps: become familiar with this app. Great for telling you exactly the times of the transport you heed. Train & Bus times etc. they tell you where on the platform to stand etc. so good.

That’s it for hints so far!!

Miyajima with a stopover at Himeji Castle

Impressive castle from any angle.

I love luggage forwarding. It means the day we leave we just have hand luggage! So easy especially when you see people lugging big bags on buses and trains. What on earth do they pack to need a really large bag? Hint ….. take things out and pack lighter.

Down to Kyoto station. We are all over the public transport now.

In plenty of time for the 9.05 train to Himeji. We want to stop and see the castle.

Into Himeji in 45 mins. Hand luggage into lockers and onto the loop bus for the short trip up the castle. It’s 20 mins walk and we decided to save our feet.

The sun was out and looked in awe at this amazing sight.

We stopped for coffee at a cafe across the road and were welcomed by the sweetest little old lady. She had the worst back….

This darling lady showed us to
a table.

We bought a combined ticket. Castle and gardens. 1050 yen which is around $10. The prices to all these shrines, temples etc seems to be very low and fairly consistent. All around 500-1000 yen.

Only Steve and Elizabeth decided up climb the steep steps up to the 6th floor. The rest of us went to the first floor. Inside is dark and there is no furniture. It’s all about the views out.

View from first floor

As we walked back out toward the moat we saw a lovely young couple with two little boys. She had a sign saying ‘we are English learners. Can we ask you a few questions’ We stopped and met the most delightful young couple with 2 and 4 year old boys – they were such fun. They asked us a few questions ‘ where do you come from’ what Japanese food do you like’ we had a great chat and then as we farewelled them they gave us a little gift.

Further along the path we met another mother and child. This boy was 7. They explained that talking with visitors helped the children learn English. This little boy had good English. He was very keen for us to take a gift each. This time a little Japanese fabric purse with tissues. And a beautifully folded star. He then asked could we have a photo with him. He told us to put up or 2 fingers as a sign of peace.

What a really special thing to do.

We made our way to the Kokoen gardens.

I was keen to find a seat in a shady stop near some water and just sit. Unfortunately that is lacking in Japan. There are very few seats around.

We caught the loop bus back to the station after a little sightseeing trip around the castle past the museum and art gallery.

The food hall at the station was great. We all bought various food items. Salads, spring rolls and scallops ( but they weren’t hot)

Then the train to Hiroshima and a swap to a more local train to Miyajima and a quick 10 min ferry ride to the island.

Looking to Miyajima

Our hotel the Hotel Miyajima Villa was a two minute walk. It’s lovely. Modern but Japanese modern. Futons on a platform, a shower room, separate toilet and basin opening windows! A massage chair, pjs and toiletries you collect down stairs in a little red bag.

Tonight we are having the hotel buffet with an acclaimed chef. It is $99 and includes drinks. Let’s hope it great.

The view from our room is lovely across the water.

I’m sure we’ll love it here. It’s downtime for us after a fairly cracking pace in Kyoto.

Dinner was good! So good we needed a walk after it to walk off the desert we didn’t need.

The stunning Tori gate.

We walked along the water front. There are lots of children around everywhere we go. It turns out this month is excursion time. Schools all over the country take their students away on trips.

And they were out tonight – being chased by a few deer. Yes it seems they have made it here as well!

The Tori gate was lit up so beautifully it was worth the walk in the rain to get there and back.

School students out walking.

Visiting Arashiyama and the Iconic Bamboo Grove

Today was time to send our luggage to Miyajima. We have one more night here in Kyoto so just need an overnight bag for our trip to Hiroshima and Miyajima where we’re staying.

With luggage stored we headed out to Arashiyama at 8 am to beat the crowds. We caught a JR train and changed onto a tram like train for the final 4 stops. It took about 40 mins.

The station has great shops and services but we headed straight out to start the walk. We were there before 9 am so even though the main walk was open it was obvious that some paths were still closed while workmen were cleaning and putting finishing touches to decorations – all made from bamboo. It seems there’s a festival tomorrow which will be lovely especially in the evening. There will be lights all along the path.

Taking a side path we arrived at the Sogenchi garden – very much a zen garden designed by a monk, it has a pond, rock garden , trees planted to provide asymmetry and it is subtle but natural. I loved it. The Tenryuji temple was quite a let down compared to the garden.

With Macca

We enjoyed a great coffee from a van in the Main Street before catching a bus up the hill to the Adashino Nembutsuji, a temple formed as a burial site.

We walked up more steps through the bamboo …..

We almost had this area to ourselves.

Riding the bus up was a great idea in the rain so we wandered down through the preserved streets.

Avoiding the crowds.

Torimoto has a wonderfully quiet atmosphere. We found a small cafe run by two little stooped women. Freshly made sandwiches in an old world cafe. Perfect.

Okochi Sanso is a villa with gardens so well laid out that you could wander and not be aware of others following another path. Owned by an actor Okochi Denjiro (1898-1962), this property is now open to the public. It’s just beautiful.

Our time was running out so we headed to the river – no time for the famed river walk.

We got another Romance train ‘ this one not quite as luxurious as the one yesterday! but fun!

Rather hard seats. Not so romantic!
Beautiful views of the river from the train

Back in Kyoto I decided to walk in the Gion area. I wanted to see the bridge that featured in the movie Memoirs of a Geisha.

The area didn’t disappoint.

I wandered the streets until my feet objected!

22,000 steps today.

We had a great dinner out before calling it a night. We’re leaving Kyoto tomorrow. It’s been great

Time now for a quieter time in Miyajima Island. And harrowing Hiroshima.

Day Trip to Nara

A day trip to Nara is a good idea. Saves packing and moving. The train system is so good it’s easy to do.

Leaving from Kyoto main station at 10 we were in Nara in warm conditions by 10.50.

I found a great day trip guide to Nara which proved to be just what we needed.

https://thenavigatio.com/nara-itinerary-one-day-trip/

It included a coffee stop at the start of the loop. It was a great suggestion for a nice coffee and we all added a croissant- to help with the walking.

We headed up the Main Street and it wasn’t long before we saw the roaming deer. They really wanted to be fed the water thin crackers. They pursue you hoping to get a cracker. And they have learned to bow to in a very Japanese way.

We detoured to the Yoshikien gardens. They were free to enter and though small were perfect. So tranquil and beautiful.

We left by the back gate which got us to the Todai ji Temple. It’s one of the more famous temples and was impressive because it was entirely constructed with wood using no nails. It also has a 500 ton bronze Buddha sitting inside. It was hard to work out if he was made there or made and moved to his home in the temple. Either way it is impressive.

We saw the tree with the hollow which children were scrambling through. Legend has it that if you can squeeze through it you will be granted enlightenment in the next life. The children’s teacher nearly didn’t make it!

The tree of enlightenment

We continued on around the park passing many deers. Its mating season and the cries from the big males was pathetic !

We walked the long tree and deer lined path to Kasugataisha shrine. Walking towards it we passed hundred of small shrines placed by families for their deceased relatives.

There are 2,000 of these lining the paths.

Time was moving on and we had tickets on the Romance train back to Kyoto. We arrived and found our beautiful green seats which were so comfortable after a long day of walking in the heat!

Ready to board.

Now was the time to tackle the ticket purchases for the remaining journeys on this trip.

Steve and Elizabeth spent at least 30 minutes with a young girl who looked like she was still at school. But she was all over the complicated ticket arrangements. The McGregors are going on a different place for a few days cycling after Hiroshima and we are going to Naoshima , the Art Island. Then we meet up to go to Hida.

Success. All tickets were purchased!

After a freshen up we headed out to an Asian fusion restaurant which had the most delicious , spring roles and beef! yum. Pity the wine wasn’t good!

What a great day.

Fushimi Inari (but let’s talk Toilets)

Started the day quite early with a train to the very well known orange gates of Fushimi inari We tried to the beat the crowds and probably did but it was still busy.

It’s interesting to observe the rituals before a visit. There were many school students all very quiet and respectful. They all washed their hands before climbing the stairs to the temple.

There are a series of small temples and lots of stairs. I’m pleased we’re not here in warmer months.

Like everywhere it’s a little commercialised with little shops manned by more elderly Japanese men and women selling miniature Tori gates, trinkets, charms , fans all that you can write on and left as offerings.

We climbed up to the start of the walk and slowed a little to allow space around us. People are mostly respectful but some dominate and take space posing for Instagram photos.

We walked along the path. No steps at this early stage.

We turned at the first gap in the gates and returned. This time there was writing on the orange posts.

A coffee stop on the way back to the train for our next stop Sanjusangen-do the Buddhist temple with 1,000 statues for Kannen the goddess of compassion with her many arms.

It had beautiful gardens surrounding the temple. the gardens of Japan are planned serene spots.

By now it was lightly raining so we got a very crowded bus to Sannenzaka and Ninen zaka two narrow sloping roads with flagstone and stone steps leading to Kiyomizudera temple.

The streets are traditional with old shopfronts now occupied by shops selling all types of food and souvenirs to the many people walking towards the temple.

Video shows the mallet throwing onto the dough to make a ball of dough filled with red bean.

Dressing in traditional kimono seems to be the way to go when visiting these temples and walking the traditional streets. There were many kimono hire shops in the main streets leading up towards the temple. not just young Japanese girls took the opportunity to wear them. Many western couples were dressed as well. Steve was not interested!

Looking back up to the temple. It’s all wooden with no nails used in construction

We wound down the rather steep path past mossy statues and headed for the main road.

Steve caught a bus to the National museum, the Wilsons headed to the Golden pavilion they missed yesterday, and I caught a bus to the main area of Kyoto to check out the other temple – the big Japanese department store devoted to shopping. It’s called Takashimaya

It’s beautiful. And super expensive!

The bookstore in the department store

I checked out the bookshop, the stationary, clothes and spent time in the food hall.

The wrapping on the boxed goods is a work of art. Just beautiful.

I wandered through the lanes to get home including popping into Uniqlo. It’s the same …… but different! Lots of tourist style t shirts. I might be tempted!!!

After a shower and freshen up we made our way to Tominojo restaurant in the Gion area.

What a great fun night we had. It’s a shabu shabu style restaurant. The young staff on one side of the long counter provided a ‘show’ – the young Nepalese woman explained how it would operate. We chose the Kobe beef and the style of hot pot and away we went. It was delicious and fun.

This shows how the nest is sliced and celebrated!

And so ended another great day.

Except I did mention toilets.

They are amazing! Everyone I’ve been to in stations, restaurants, hotels, department store, temple , shrines ……. They are clean and functional and all have multiple buttons.

They even have a chair to sit your baby while you go. They have child’s seat hanging ready for use.

They all have a panel on the wall. You can wash front and back , choose the water pressure , then dry . Wow. You could spend a long time in there!

I did promise to tell you about them. If you have questions just pop them in the comments.

Temples, Shrines and Castles.

A mix up with tour bookings led to the three couples going in different directions.

The Wilsons wandered locally , the McGregors did the Palace and Castle tour and Steve and I headed to two shrines

We caught the number 59 bus for lots of stops which gave us a good look at the suburbs our yo the east side of the city.

We started with Ryoanji temple. This is home to the most famous zen rock garden. It’s simple and it’s quiet and quite mesmerising.

Photo taken as a panorama shot. It’s rectangle garden.

This garden has sand which is raked meticulously. There are 15 rocks in the space.

We moved from this space into the gardens and loved the lake walk and the bamboo poles holding up the trees.

There are little corners with running water and statues of Buddha. I loved it.

We moved on to the Golden Temple. It’s probably the most famous of the temples here in Kyoto. Truely beautiful.

It very beautiful

A quick taxi ride took us to the tour we were doing if the Imperial Palace and Castle. On arrival we found that the palace and gardens were closed as the Royal family were in town.

Our guide Jasmine was young and had the biggest eyes! And long blond hair well it really was black like all the other Japanese girls we’ve seen but she had dyed it blonde!

She broke the news that as it was closed we would instead go to the art gallery in the castle grounds.

We had a good tour of the castle and Jasmine explained the history of the shogans and their relationship to the Emperor.

The painted panels were beautiful especially the peony room.

We finished the evening with a tea ceremony. A young 19 year maiko explained her world as a trainee geisha. Very strange life in this day and age.

Fast Train to Kyoto

Travelling with 6 people we decided on 2 taxis for the trip down from the hills to Odawara Station to catch a Shinkansen train to Kyoto. It’s a fast train. In fact around 264 km – one was clicked in at as it sped through the station!

Stairs in the station painted with a mountain scene.

We arrived in plenty of time and had a coffee before going to the platform and joining an orderly line to board the train. A train guard was madly waving his flag at anyone who accidentally put their foot over the yellow safety line. – even with a fence before the track.

We bought first class seats and they were very spacious and comfortable for the 2.5 Hr trip.

Arriving in Kyoto was amazing. The station is huge but so well signposted. With a little help from our friend, Chat GPT, we got directions through the station to the bus platforms and got the city bus 7 to our hotel. We’re feeling very chuffed that we’re managing our travel so well. Jill is our organiser and has her phone at the ready to give directions and we, her minions are the eyes looking for the signs. It’s working well.

The hotel is the same chain as the one we used in Tokyo but not quite as good. But after I ‘nested’ / unpacked and got organised it’s working well. It’s certainly in a good position. Not far from the famous Nishiki market and also just near the canal and river crossing to Gion.

We had a quick lunch and split up. Steve & Chris headed to the Train Museum and museum of Kyoto, ( sadly they found it closed but lived the trains) Jill and I chose to wander the laneways and end up at Nishiki Markets and the McGregors wandered across the Kamagowa river to Gion area.

Jill and I had a great explore. As well as great shops along the way , we stopped at a shrine and a temple.

Prayers and blessing written in the fans

The shops were a buzz with shoppers and trendy looking young Japanese.

The next temple had a cemetery behind it.

Buried in the Cemetery is Izumi Shikibu who was described as the great woman poet of her time and the first chief priest of this temple.

“MY life is drawing to a close, I cannot longer stay,

A pleasant memory of thee

I fain would take away;

So visit me, I pray.”

Izumi Shikibu

Then into the markets with dozens of food stalls. All ready to cook something delicious for you. Meats, seafoods of all kinds , tempura,

I had to try something, so got a fruit stick with the finest layer of toffee over it.

Strawberries and grapes
A fish shaped soft pastry with custard inside. Yum!

I found an umbrella shop and bought a beautiful navy and white umbrella.

We bought socks, glass nail files, shoe laces , and tasted some great honey cordial.

No I didn’t try this …. But would like to

After changing we walked across the river looking for a roof top bar but were disappointed to find it closed. We settled on a glass of wine in a small bar and a cheap and cheerful bowl of ramen for dinner.

Loved the one called Novelty!

We walked home in light drizzle through a trendy nightclub area and spotted my first geisha.

Loving Kyoto already!

Hakone circuit

Starting the day with a good breakfast is great. It keeps you going even though we weren’t walking much today. Today’s all about transport !

The free shuttle to Gora station had us first in line for the cable car. It headed up the hills behind the township of Gora.

Our driver was spic and span wearing white gloves and an important looking hat. It was smooth ride and delightful looking down at the trees. the autumn colours are starting to peek through.

Mt Fuji came into sight. We couldn’t believe the clear view we had when so many see it shrouded in cloud. I was a little disappointed it didn’t have a snowy peak depicted in almost every picture you see of it.

We changed to the rope way after a stop to view the quarry where sulphur mining was sending small clouds of sulphur upwards.

The ropeway took us down to Lake Ashi where we were boarding the curiously named Pirate boat. We paid $7 for first class which gave us a seat while we waited and access to the front of the boat.

Hakone is a pretty little lake side town with a few restaurants and craft shops. One in particular caught our eye.

Full of wood crafted items we all bought something. Steve bought a few bags of little wooden squares. He’s going to make a clock ! I bought the sweetest heart shaped broach.

Following lunch we caught a local bus using our Hakone free pass ( not free but at $71 gave us all the transport rides over 2 days ) Good value.

View of Mt Fuji in the background

Back to the hotel on the local bus wound us up through the densely treed forest. Even their buses are efficient, clean and quiet. They signs are polite and observed.

Our loop of attractions was covered easily as we had few queues to hold us up. So lots of time to relax at the hotel.

Another bath in our private onsen on the verandah before a pre dinner cocktail before dinner rounded out a great day.