Wandering Kanazawa

Our first day with no travel buddies! It’s been great sharing our travels with the Wilsons and McGregors. They are fun travel buddies.

Today we started fairly slowly. But as the sun was out we thought we should take advantage of it and get moving. We walked and found the loop bus. It runs around the city in a loop both ways, stopping at all the attractions.

We caught it to the Museum of Contemporary Art.

Set in a park it is a modern circular building with many art installations around it. Including the coloured structure above. With panels of different colours it changes your perspective of the world.

Inside there are various galleries some ticketed some not. It’s a great space and some fun art.

We’ve noticed there is no graffiti anywhere we’ve seen in Japan. No bins around either. But no rubbish. You are expected to take your rubbish away with you. Great idea.

There was a pool in a courtyard and when you looked in you could see people walking inside it. Great altered mind state.

Look inside!

We left the gallery and continued to walk. We came to the canal and met up with a lovely man who was there to feed the fish. He told us about the city and the fact that the city had many kilometres of canals circling it.

Our walk took us the old Samurai area. There we walked in the steps of the old samurai …..down cobbled streets past old wooden houses some of which are now occupied by art and craft shops.

I pottered in and out buying a few gifts as I went.

We stopped for lunch and opted for a delicious vegetable soup. Similar to a minestrone. Delicious. Especially with a beer Steve told me.

The rain had returned but not heavy so we stopped off at a department store back in the Main Street. It was beautiful but so empty of customers! it had a great food hall and u wanted to buy lots but opted for bananas for breakfast!

We waited for a bus and being a wanderer I said…let’s get this one and see where we go. It snaked its way in and around the city streets, crossed the river twice and before we knew it we were back at the castle gardens near our hotel. Perfect!

We dropped our parcels in and had a little rest before heading back out for dinner.

This time we walked the opposite direction into the old geisha area. It was charming. Still a little wet

We found a great Yakitori restaurant where we opted to sit at the bar and watch the theatre of the kitchen.

Drsssed with samurai type headbands the chefs were busy all night including giving a touching cheer as people came and left!

We had the set course which included an appetiser box ,

tempura, a hot pot,

chicken skewers , noodles and teeny tiny matcha panda cotta . All fairly small but delicious and we were full.

Luckily we had a walk back to the hotel.

It wasn’t late so I decided to visit the onsen. These public baths are everywhere in Japan. Most hotels have one. Japanese people are so relaxed because of these baths – in my opinion. And they have the smoothest skin!

I arrived at this one where a gaggle of older Japanese ladies were re dressing after their shared onsen. It quietened down so off came the gown and I had the obligatory shower before entering the bath. I there were only 2 ladies there with me. You take a small towel with you which you put on your head when in the bath. I wrapped my hair up.

When you get out you take another shower sitting on little low stools then soap yourself with the lovely products. Sitting in the stools all soapy is dangerous ! Getting up is a challenge.

Then into the change room to dry off before sitting at the mirrors in a towel to apply all the body creams and oil and blow dry your hair. Quite the experience.

Needless to say I was ready for a good sleep. And I found how to open the window for some fresh air.

Rainy Train Journey.

We had plenty of time to get organised this morning. We were all leaving on the 11.03 out of Takayama.

The station was awash with early bird travellers. There was a big line of people and lots of suitcases. Most people were heading to Tokyo , so probably at the end of their holiday – like our friends the McGregors. Steve and I sent our luggage on but our friends brought theirs.

So there was a lot of scrambling once we were allowed into platform 1 !

The poor conductor was waving his arms trying to hurry everyone. The train risked being a minute late to leave the station!!!

Once on board everyone seemed to settle and we enjoyed being indoors on this rainy day.

The clouds hung low

The countryside was very green. Lots of trees and water flowing and power stations.

Before we knew it we were farewelling our dear friends Peter & Elizabeth. They very nearly had to cancel as they both had been to NZ and caught some nasty virus. But they came and rallied and we loved having them with us. We’ve had many trips together.

We all changed trains at Toyama. We had less than 6 mins. We had to move fast and Chris and Jill had their bags.

We made it – just!

Then the 35 min trip to Kanazawa. This city is known for its castle and gardens.

After finding our hotel the rather old world place we went walking.

First to the Omicho markets. Much more a food market than the Nishiki market in Kyoto.

All undercover market

We bought some fresh prawns and sushi and stood at bench tables eating along with a beer for the boys.

We left and headed for the Castle it was starting to sprinkle but not enough to deter us. We headed up the hill with Chris dancing g Ali g. Very light in his feet singing ‘ I’m singing in the rain’

We left the castle grounds. Crossed the road and arrived at the Kenrokuen Gardens.

These are very famous…. Kenrokuen” means “garden that combines six characteristics.” These six characteristics are spaciousness, seclusion, artifice, antiquity, water sources and magnifient views. Not every garden in Japan can combine all of these features but Kenrokuen does.

It’s beautiful.

The trees are starting to show their autumn colours.

Unfortunately for us it wasn’t sunlit but it had a moodiness that comes with rain and cloud cover. We still enjoyed the peace as many people would have avoided the gardens in the rain.

The rain got heavier so we decided to head off. We walked down a hill to our hotel , passing along a garden path behind the hotel.

Many sculptures lined the path back to our hotel.

We dripped into the hotel foyer and headed to our rooms to dry off.

Jill and I hatched a perfect plan. We didn’t want go out again in the dark and rain so sent the boys for supplies. They cane back with beer, wine, sashimi and sushi. Perfect room picnic.

Takayama

When we were deciding where to stay it was a toss up between Takayama and Hida. I’m so pleased we had one night in Hida. It’s a small town but so beautiful and so well preserved. But a real town.

Takayama is bigger and more crowded. I like it but it doesn’t have the charm of Hida, or the atmosphere of Miyajima or even the variety of sightseeing Kyoto has to offer.

We got here yesterday and walked a little till it was getting dark and quite cold. The weather so far has been great. Really warm up until Hida when being high in the mountains produces cooler weather. It was welcome. I was getting a bit over wearing the same few dresses! I pack light and it was getting a bit boring.

Today we set off at 8.30 for the morning markets. They are located on the river. White tents mostly with food items. Similar scenes are found all over the world. Only in Japan it felt very calm.

The only decent coffee was found by smelling coffee beans and spying a line of people!

No wonder there was a line. There were two people in the tent. The man was taking orders – slowly one at a time and then assembling little coffee cups made out of an edible cone with room for an espresso and the young woman was doing everything else!

She was making the coffee then carrying it to the serving table and decorating each coffee individually!

The coffee was nice and we had a seat in the warm sun and a croissant ! And a banana so a balanced breakfast! Not very Japanese. No fish or pickles.

Lots of plants.
And packets of dried fruits all wrapped beautifully.

We walking further into the old town to where their festival floats are stored and explored the streets which have no power lines!

The gang

Late morning we headed back to the bus station. We were going to Shirakawa. We had bought an unreserved seat and the lady reassured us that we’d get a seat on a bus at that time. She told us they just kept adding buses. She was right. We got on bus 4 of the ones leaving at 11.50.

Declared a UNESCO world heritage site in 1995, Shirakawa is famous for their traditional gassho-zukuri farmhouses, some of which are more than 250 years old.

We walked through the small town and tried to imagine it in winter! The snow would keep people in their houses and make life difficult. One house we were able to visit was Kanda. It was spread over 5 levels and would have held not just one family but relatives as well. It’s so well preserved.

Examples of clothing

The views over the village showed how it was laid out. People still live there but it must be hard with tourists crawling all over it.

We bought some lunch and like the lady at the coffee stall this morning one man was running a little shop selling Hida beef croquettes and chicken bites. For each order he left the window where he took the order and went and cooked the items. It’s slow and very unhurried and you develop patience.

It started to sprinkle so we headed back to the bus station and caught a bus back to Takayama.

Stopping off at the hotel bar we were going to have coffee or tea but Elizabeth led us astray and we had an espresso martini.

Macca stuck with tea.

After a change and a bit of packing we headed out for our last dinner together. We all leave on a train tomorrow but the Wilson’s and ourselves get off in Kanazawa and the McGregors go on to Tokyo. They have one night there then fly home.

For today’s dinner we celebrated our great holiday together and an early birthday celebration for Steve’s birthday next Thursday.

Thank you to our friends for making this a great holiday.

Friday in Hida

A sleep of the angels, a bath in the onsen and breakfast dressed in our yakata delivered by Keito.

Breakfast

Again it was a Japanese meal with emphasis on fresh produce.

We had fish, vegetables, miso soup with mushrooms tofu and a delicious rice and caramelised spring onion.

We packed up and spent most of the day wandering the streets visiting some of the local businesses.

Lovely displays outside the wooden shops
Crackers made in house. All different flavours
A wood craft museum showing how wood is used. Steve was challenged in his wood techniques

A sake distillery, a candle shop, a weavers house filled with things made by the sweet lady of the house.

Next was our morning coffee stop. Macca was looking turnabout so had a yummy smelling butter chicken curry. We all had the home made waffle and great coffee.

On to the festival floats exhibition. Every April after the winter snow has melted there is a festival.

The family groups ’clans’ all have a float tell their story. Some of the floats are a couple of hundred years . Everyone dresses in yakatas and kimonos and beat drums – they parade through the town. It goes for 3 days and looks magnificent.

The exhibition hall is set out do beautifully. A few tried their hand at the pole balance !

And the marionettes

And boxing!

At 2.30 we collected our bags and headed to Takayama.

Here we’re staying at the modern Mecure. Very comfortable but no pj’s , no onsen in our room , no breakfast ( or Kaiseki dinner).

We had a walk to the old town , a drink in the bar and had dinner at a bbq Hida beef place nearby. Second last night with this fabulous group.

Hida a great hideaway.

We met up with the McGregors who had finished their cycling days and met us on the train.

We had a big travel day getting to Hida but it is a great place after the busy days of cities. Though Miyajima and Naoshima were quite laid back and not rushed. It’s good to have a balance. We were very busy in Tokyo and Kyoto. Now we have slowed the pace and are enjoying the change.

Hida is very special.

We arrived in beautiful sunshine and walked for about 10 minutes to our Ryokan. Busuitei.

Looking across the red bridge to our Ryokan.

We were given the warmest welcome by Rumi and Keito in the sitting area of the hotel.

They made us herb tea and coffee with special homemade sweets

We were shown our rooms. Steve and I had a downstairs room and it was huge. It had 3 main rooms , a bathroom with its own onsen, a toilet room which turned on a light and raised the seat for you on arrival and a bedroom with the best doona’s of the trip.

View from our room
Our onsen

We changed into our kimonos – yakata for dinner in a gorgeous dining room and served a Kaiseki meal by Keito. Kaiseki is a style of meal that has many little dishes that reflect the local produce and are presented in an artistic way.

It is a highly refined and artistic form of Japanese haute cuisine, with the menu carefully planned to balance flavors, textures, and colors, often served at a traditional ryokan. It was sensational.

Sone of the dishes featured fish, pickles, meat which we did shabu shabu style, miso…..
Keito explaining the cooking style

We finished a multi course meal and when we went to our room we took an onsen. The water was super hot but once in, it was so relaxing. It made us sleepy and we had the best nights sleep!

The lady who owns the Ryokan
The entry hall in the Ryokan.

Tomorrow is a slow walk around this very old very pretty town.

https://busuitei.co.jp

Naoshima. : a full day of art.

Welcome to Naoshima

Staying near the ferry port was a bonus. We had pre booked tickets for 4 museums on the island.

Transport is limited on the island so at the end of this post I’ll give some hints.

We arrived in time to play sardines on the green bus. I can’t believe how people crammed on. But instead of walking it got the worst of the hills out of the way.

We arrived at the LeeYuan art gallery first. It’s austere, minimalist and for me- not really a lover of really modern art just a little hard to understand.

We walked another 20 minutes to the Benesse House Museum. a super modern building but so creative and interesting. The installations and hanging art were great.

Had coffee at Benesse house cafe. Then a little purchase at the beautiful gift shop.

There were some very creative people cruising the gallery
Loved this ….. each phrase flashed up randomly then all come together.

We walked along the coast road and found the iconic pumpkin. Yayoi Kusama is famous for her polka dot art.

There were many colourful sculptures along the way.

We decided to save some time and took the loop bus to the next little port town Honmura. There we started to visit houses – part of the Art House Project.

This began in 1998 with “Kadoya”, and currently comprises seven houses. Artists take empty houses scattered about residential areas and turn the spaces into works of art, weaving in history and memories of the period when the buildings were lived in and used.

Street of the Art Houses.

Going from one of the houses to another, visitors pass through the Honmura district, where everyday life unfolds around them, not only engaging with works of art but also sensing the history interwoven in the community and the fabric of local people’s lives.

Viewing the house means interacting with the locals and presents a sense of community.

Water : an art house project

We decided on lunch and a local told us to try Apron. Set in a regular local house with mum in the kitchen and son as waiter there were only 10 sears.

The food was terrific
Such a perfect little cafe

We wandered the little streets peering through doors and looking at what surprises lay there.

One gorgeous surprise garden

We spotted a notice board with smiley people and their written answers to a few questions.

If whatever you try will succeed what do you really want to pursue.

We went inside and met the artist photographer Kohei Iwata and found ourselves taking part. He was exploring the themes of success, life , motivation and inspiration. We filled out the answer to the question…. Mine was. ‘What big change did you have in your life and how did it inspire you.’ Next thing we were having our photo taken ….

My portrait.

What a wonderful project. So thrilled to be involved.

We moved onto other art houses before climbing at least 80 steps into the New Museum of Naoshima. Again lots of modern concrete spaces spread over several levels. Some fun. Some challenging but very colourful.

Even the crowd were colourful

We walked back down the stairs and saw our green bus sail past! That meant a 30 min standing wait. Then ferry leaving at 5.30. So we had a full day on Naoshima.

Dinner was at our hotel which made it easy. We wore our kimonos as we threw everything in for one last wash!

Sitting at a low feet in the pit table.

I had a rice soup with salmon. Delicious. And a Gin as the lovely waitress said the white wine wasn’t very nice!

Naoshima hints.

If wanting to stay a few days …..there isn’t much accommodation so book early. Or stay at the beautiful Benesse hotel and have a big credit card!

Pre book tickets for the galleries you want to see. this site is great.

https://benesse-artsite.jp/en/

Otherwise stay in UNO Port or at Takamatsu which has ferries to all the art islands.

Look carefully at ferry timetables

On the island can use the bus, bike or walk. There are two buses going clockwise and anticlockwise. Decide which order to see the museum galleries.

You can hire bikes but roads are narrow. Be careful!

Take cash for the buses and ferries. Around 300 yen PP each.

Some of the galleries have cafes but ask a local where to have lunch. You’ll get something good.

Summer would be too hot to be there. There’s a bit of walking and it would be way too hot.

Hiroshima: May it never happen again.

We left the hotel by 8.30 – not really wanting to as we’ve loved our stay here. But new places await.

Hiroshima is a must visit to make everyone aware of the outcomes of war. It’s a very sobering place to visit.

We arrived by a JR Train using our Suica card. Locating lockers is easy with the great signposting. Then headed off by tram for the castle. The city is all new – for obvious reasons. A constant reminder of what happened but in 1941.

We decided, due to time limitations to just walk the castle grounds before moving on to Peace Park and the memorial to the victims lost in the bombing.

One of the most poignant moments was seeing the memorial for the children lost in the bombing and the many who dyed after from leukaemia.

When reading to children in the library I would read the story of Sadako and the Thousands Paper Cranes. When Sadako became ill at 10 her room mate told her about the legend of the thousand paper cranes – if she folded a thousand paper cranes she would be granted a wish. She folded 1,300 but died soon after. Now the paper crane is a symbol of peace. Hope and healing.

There are cabinets of thousands and thousands paper cranes which people are adding to each week.
Today the dome.
Just after the bombing

If you like film try and see the movie called Touch. It’s a beautiful but sad story of a young Japanese woman and Swedish man who fall in love. and the impact of the bomb years before.

We continued on our journey. another train. A Shinkansen.

Heading towards Okayama the McGregors got off at Ominichi. They are cycling for two days.

We continued onto UNO Port. I’m very keen to visit the art island of Naoshima. We’re staying in the port tonight.

A welcome at the station.

Luckily for us we got a booking at Bluno. Recommended by a friend it’s French Japanese food.

A welcome at the station.

Our hotel was a little bit of a mystery. We couldn’t get anything on the island and many hotels here were booked out so we booked at one with a Japanese name.

Turns out it’s small but perfect little rooms. Comfy beds, lovely yakatas and an opening window for fresh air. Just fine for 2 nights.

Taken from my comfy bed. The navy white yakata

We’ll explore a little before heading to Bluno. There is an art trail of outdoor sculptures. Such an interesting place.

Happy with our wine !

Dinner was delicious and lots of fun with the Wilsons as we reminisced about the holidays we have done together.

Tomorrow we head to Naoshima Island just 20 min by ferry. it’s become a destination for lovers of art.

Miyajima Island. A rest day with a view

We arrived here yesterday around 3pm after catching a 9am train from Kyoto. Stopped at Himeji castle then another train and did ferry ride.

Our Hotel Miyajama Villa is opposite the ferry terminal.

It’s a modern Japanese style. I booked is 3 rooms with sea view. I could only get triples with futon. The mattress is on a high ish wooden platform. Quite comfortable.

Very comfortable room

The bathroom set up is different. The sink and vanity and separate toilet is outside the bath and shower room – which is exactly as it sounds. The whole room becomes the shower. Great idea!

We rested up and did washing when we arrived. Most hotels have a pay laundry. You need around 300-400 yen cash for a 30 minute wash and 100 yen for dryer.

Then we had a drink and dinner. The buffet is $99 pp but it worked well. It included all drinks – nice champagne, wine beer

The food selections were not too vast and were divided into a more western style and a Japanese cuisine. Some really nice things.

Oysters are the specialty of this island and we had to have some. They are big and delicious.

Walking around today we saw lots of oyster cafes – restaurants. They grill them here. It’s not the right season for fresh.

We’ll have some tonight with a glass of bubbles. We’re not staying in for the buffet. There are a few restaurants we’d like to try. Getting in with 6 is often the problem. The hotels will book something for us sometimes as it frustrating to just wander sound!

Today , Monday 20th we are doing our own thing. Elizabeth is training for a big walk up Mt Wellington in Hobart so wants to stretch the legs on the walk up the hill / Mt Misen. Steve wants you to go as well but will get the rope way up the half way and walk to the temple on the top.

Chris and Peter are taking it slowly. Jill and I want to explore the back streets ( and tourist street!)

The weather is great so we all set off and Jill and I had a lovely time going in and out of shops along the way.

A cake in the shape of a maple leaf is also popular here. So we watched them being mass made . But no photos allowed. The operation is very slick. Pastry dough is dropped into series of moulds. Moved along then filling is piped in. Then the case is closed. They are picked up and boxed.

Lots of cute food ideas.

There are lots of decorations and wooden practical items such as spoons and ladles in woods like cherry & chestnut. The ceramics are lovely and with the Japanese eye for simplicity they are beautiful.

I tried on a few dresses made of old kimono fabric but nothing suited.

Grilled oysters anyone?

There are lots of food stalls along the way and I wanted to try everything! Not possible. So selected 1. A lemon filled pastry on a stick. Small and delicious!

We got off the main tourist strip and went into the back streets. It’s so different one block back. Small crafty shops. A few cafes

This cafe selling shaved ice with flavourings
Steve and Elizabeth were rewarded with great views.
I enjoyed the back streets

Dinner tonight was terrific. We stayed at an oyster bar for a glass of bubbles and oysters gratin. they were big and beautiful.

Then we made our way into a back street and found the restaurant I’d read about. Okonomiyaki Kishibe. Run by 3 nonnas it is small. It only seats 12. We waited maybe 10 mins and they squeezed us in.

Such lovely ladies put in a real show for us.

Counter seats to watch to the show.
Delicious: egg, cabbage, soba noodles, prosciutto & cheese

We walked home through lateen lit streets feeling full and satisfied.

A slow day but a great one.

Tomorrow ready for Hiroshima.

Travel Hints:

Before you leave home downloaded the Suica app.

This card is used everywhere. Trains (Not fast one) Bus, ferry, all Lawsons, Family Mart ( these shops have everything inc good food on the go )

You do. Try cash out on it as well. Load it up with cash and away you go.

You need cash. Not so much in the bigger cities ( use you suica card) like Tokyo & Kyoto but for all temples, shrines, gardens, smaller shops, room tax in hotel, for paying your hotel to forward your luggage on. Have an easy zip purse for your cash. You get lots of coins.

Bring a decent overnight bag. Not too heavy My Foldie is great. We are forwarding luggage and it can be just a day /not same day but next day deliver. Have an air tag in it to follow its progress! Depending on the size of the case it will cost 300-400 yen. Well worth it.

Shoes : wear comfortable shoes – with side zips as you have to take them off a lot ….mine have been great with their zips.

Mine are Ziera with side zip. Laces stay laced.

Passport: if you buy things over a certain amount you need to show your passport to get the tax taken off.

Trains: the trains are great. If doing your own book when you get here. Have lost of what you want and go to a big station where they have an office with English speakers who help you book all current trains and print out the tickets.

Google Maps: become familiar with this app. Great for telling you exactly the times of the transport you heed. Train & Bus times etc. they tell you where on the platform to stand etc. so good.

That’s it for hints so far!!

Miyajima with a stopover at Himeji Castle

Impressive castle from any angle.

I love luggage forwarding. It means the day we leave we just have hand luggage! So easy especially when you see people lugging big bags on buses and trains. What on earth do they pack to need a really large bag? Hint ….. take things out and pack lighter.

Down to Kyoto station. We are all over the public transport now.

In plenty of time for the 9.05 train to Himeji. We want to stop and see the castle.

Into Himeji in 45 mins. Hand luggage into lockers and onto the loop bus for the short trip up the castle. It’s 20 mins walk and we decided to save our feet.

The sun was out and looked in awe at this amazing sight.

We stopped for coffee at a cafe across the road and were welcomed by the sweetest little old lady. She had the worst back….

This darling lady showed us to
a table.

We bought a combined ticket. Castle and gardens. 1050 yen which is around $10. The prices to all these shrines, temples etc seems to be very low and fairly consistent. All around 500-1000 yen.

Only Steve and Elizabeth decided up climb the steep steps up to the 6th floor. The rest of us went to the first floor. Inside is dark and there is no furniture. It’s all about the views out.

View from first floor

As we walked back out toward the moat we saw a lovely young couple with two little boys. She had a sign saying ‘we are English learners. Can we ask you a few questions’ We stopped and met the most delightful young couple with 2 and 4 year old boys – they were such fun. They asked us a few questions ‘ where do you come from’ what Japanese food do you like’ we had a great chat and then as we farewelled them they gave us a little gift.

Further along the path we met another mother and child. This boy was 7. They explained that talking with visitors helped the children learn English. This little boy had good English. He was very keen for us to take a gift each. This time a little Japanese fabric purse with tissues. And a beautifully folded star. He then asked could we have a photo with him. He told us to put up or 2 fingers as a sign of peace.

What a really special thing to do.

We made our way to the Kokoen gardens.

I was keen to find a seat in a shady stop near some water and just sit. Unfortunately that is lacking in Japan. There are very few seats around.

We caught the loop bus back to the station after a little sightseeing trip around the castle past the museum and art gallery.

The food hall at the station was great. We all bought various food items. Salads, spring rolls and scallops ( but they weren’t hot)

Then the train to Hiroshima and a swap to a more local train to Miyajima and a quick 10 min ferry ride to the island.

Looking to Miyajima

Our hotel the Hotel Miyajima Villa was a two minute walk. It’s lovely. Modern but Japanese modern. Futons on a platform, a shower room, separate toilet and basin opening windows! A massage chair, pjs and toiletries you collect down stairs in a little red bag.

Tonight we are having the hotel buffet with an acclaimed chef. It is $99 and includes drinks. Let’s hope it great.

The view from our room is lovely across the water.

I’m sure we’ll love it here. It’s downtime for us after a fairly cracking pace in Kyoto.

Dinner was good! So good we needed a walk after it to walk off the desert we didn’t need.

The stunning Tori gate.

We walked along the water front. There are lots of children around everywhere we go. It turns out this month is excursion time. Schools all over the country take their students away on trips.

And they were out tonight – being chased by a few deer. Yes it seems they have made it here as well!

The Tori gate was lit up so beautifully it was worth the walk in the rain to get there and back.

School students out walking.

Visiting Arashiyama and the Iconic Bamboo Grove

Today was time to send our luggage to Miyajima. We have one more night here in Kyoto so just need an overnight bag for our trip to Hiroshima and Miyajima where we’re staying.

With luggage stored we headed out to Arashiyama at 8 am to beat the crowds. We caught a JR train and changed onto a tram like train for the final 4 stops. It took about 40 mins.

The station has great shops and services but we headed straight out to start the walk. We were there before 9 am so even though the main walk was open it was obvious that some paths were still closed while workmen were cleaning and putting finishing touches to decorations – all made from bamboo. It seems there’s a festival tomorrow which will be lovely especially in the evening. There will be lights all along the path.

Taking a side path we arrived at the Sogenchi garden – very much a zen garden designed by a monk, it has a pond, rock garden , trees planted to provide asymmetry and it is subtle but natural. I loved it. The Tenryuji temple was quite a let down compared to the garden.

With Macca

We enjoyed a great coffee from a van in the Main Street before catching a bus up the hill to the Adashino Nembutsuji, a temple formed as a burial site.

We walked up more steps through the bamboo …..

We almost had this area to ourselves.

Riding the bus up was a great idea in the rain so we wandered down through the preserved streets.

Avoiding the crowds.

Torimoto has a wonderfully quiet atmosphere. We found a small cafe run by two little stooped women. Freshly made sandwiches in an old world cafe. Perfect.

Okochi Sanso is a villa with gardens so well laid out that you could wander and not be aware of others following another path. Owned by an actor Okochi Denjiro (1898-1962), this property is now open to the public. It’s just beautiful.

Our time was running out so we headed to the river – no time for the famed river walk.

We got another Romance train ‘ this one not quite as luxurious as the one yesterday! but fun!

Rather hard seats. Not so romantic!
Beautiful views of the river from the train

Back in Kyoto I decided to walk in the Gion area. I wanted to see the bridge that featured in the movie Memoirs of a Geisha.

The area didn’t disappoint.

I wandered the streets until my feet objected!

22,000 steps today.

We had a great dinner out before calling it a night. We’re leaving Kyoto tomorrow. It’s been great

Time now for a quieter time in Miyajima Island. And harrowing Hiroshima.