Things to do

Litchfield NT. Waterfalls & Waterholes

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Another early start. Touring is not for the lazy! A 7am pick up at our apartment for day out of Darwin to Litchfield National Park and a swim at the falls.

Our driver Mel arrived and we went to a few pick up stops and suddenly the bus was full. A big group off the Ghan joined us. I hope they haven’t got covid. Most were wearing masks!

The driving was good along well maintained roads. Mel gave us a little introduction and then in an hour we arrived at Batchelor for morning coffee. The coffee was good.

Batchelor had a big uranium mine which has closed and the town is more an area for camping and a jump off to Litchfield.

Next stop was a viewing of the giant termite mounds.

They are generally a honey coloured mound until they’ve reached the end of their life they become grey.

Litchfield is a favourite waterfall & water hole for swimming.

There are 120 steps down – all steel steps with a rail so quite safe. There is an alternate route a 15 minute flat walk which crosses the stream several times.

We decided to walk the steps down and walk the track back yet dry out.

Good decision.

There were two falls dropping into the waterhole and easy steps down into it.

It was delicious! Cool but not cold. Under the waterfall it was like a pins & needles massage.

Beautiful in the water.

We were told there would probably be a few saltwater crocodiles around but they wouldn’t bother us. Ok!

Fortunately no scary sightings.

The walk back along the slate path was just lovely. Shaded and quite tropical it criss crossed the creek and back to the car park.

Wangi Falls was our next stop and it’s a beautiful little oasis. Access to the swimming hole is easy. Only problem is there was at least one big crocodile spotted recently and there has to be at least 21 day without sighting a croc. So no swimming.

It would be great to have a swim. It is very beautiful. The walk to the outlook was easy.

Lunch on the verandah of the cafe was fine.

Last stop : fish feeding at Howard Springs.

Howard Springs became famous as a good place to do quarantine during covid. Perhaps not in summer. But the weather today is absolutely beautiful.

It’s a lovely little place with beautiful gardens and a fish sanctuary where we did some fish feeing. Lots of turtles, barramundi and all other types were plentiful in the water.

Darwin- Arriving at the Top End

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Excitement this morning as we headed to the airport. Once again Brisbane was grey & rainy. We left home in short sleeves carrying sun hats as Darwin our most northern capital is still hot.

The plane was crowded and nearly four hours of wearing a mask is not fun!

Darwin is a very different capital. Even from the air it appears laid back , tropical , slightly dusty, low level buildings, a bit of the Wild West feeling about it …..and lots of water. Bays, beaches, rivers – all of them unsafe for swimmers. This is the outback – by the water.

Stepping out of the airport the heat feels tropical. I love these airports. Small, casual , lots of greenery and lots of thongs. That is the footwear of choice.

A very long taxi queue had us on the Uber app which worked well and we reached our apartment around 3pm.

The Argus Apartments are huge but a little tired looking. But the bed is good, it’s cool,the view is great and it’s big enough for 4. Our friends Chris & Jill are at Kakadu and will join us tonight.

We unpacked changed into more tropical clothes- shorts & tshirts and went exploring. What struck us at first was how empty the streets appeared. No one around. Like a sleepy Sunday… but it’s Thursday 3.30. Coming up to peak hour.

We searched for somewhere to eat something light. Lunch was served in the plane but at 10.30am I didn’t feel like sausages.

The very busy mall.

We walked into the mall. It was not crowded. I’m fact we barely saw anyone. After walking into an arcade we found a cafe and had a berry smoothie. We didn’t want to fill up because tonight we are heading to the Mindel Beach markets. They are famous for their food and flaming sunsets.

We walked to the waterfront and found a few of the older buildings in town.

Cyclone Tracey back in 1974 flattened most of Darwin. It was Christmas Eve and 71 people died There are just a few buildings left. One being Lyon’s House one of the only stone houses in Darwin. It was used during WW2 by the Americans. Darwin was bombed during the war and again suffered a lot of damage.

Lyon House. Today a museum

Across the road another old building Admiralty House today houses a restaurant.

The streets have some great trees providing pedestrians with some much needed shade. And there is some great street art to catch the eye.

We found a Coles for a few supplies and a Liquorland for some refreshments. A few mini bottles of Prosecco and some beer. Steve needed to show his ID to buy the alcohol. Later he realised he’d bought Zero alcohol beer! Not sure that will be a taste pleaser!

After dropping our supplies back to the apartment we caught the bus to the markets. The Gov here in the Northern Territory provides free bus travel for over 65’s. I knew there were benefits and this is one !

The markets are set under shade tree along the beach. The food handicraft and clothing stalls run for around a kilometre. And they were super busy. If you visit Darwin these markets are a must. The food is a reflection of the cultures which make up this northern tropical city. Asian, including Chinese, Vietnamese, Sri Lankan, Thai, Greek, Italian even the Aussie crocodile burger were attracting big lines. The smells were incredible. A heady mix of spices and bbq along with a dose of sweat.

People were buying food and drinks and heading over the low dune to sit on the beach. There seemed to be a no alcohol policy so the blenders were whirring madly making smoothies and juices.

In a crowd this size it’s hard to know if you should be wearing a mask. Covid is everywhere in Australia at the moment and we are trying to avoid it for our holiday. So far so good.

The build up to sunset was filled with anticipation. Crowds were sitting on the beach picnicking on their food stall delights. Children played, local aboriginal people sang as we all looked over the ocean watching as the sun dipped and its colour changed.

Watching the changing scene was magical.

When the sun disappeared the crowds did as well. After a hearty round of applause then it was …..Back to the markets for more food.

There was music and children playing in the candlelight.

Back to the apartment by bus and a glass of Prosecco to welcome Jill and Chris.

Plans were discussed about our trip to Tiwi Island tomorrow. And so our adventure begins.

Adelaide you are THE Festival City

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Last year was my first Adelaide Writer’s Week, Fringe and Festival visit.

It was so good I came back this year – and brought friends for Writer’s Week if you read my earlier blogs you’ll know how much we enjoyed that week.

This week is I’m spending time with the family. My niece Vashti is a musician but isn’t in any festival shows this year, unfortunately. But we’ve been to a few great shows.

Last week we saw a band playing Blues & Soul , for women comedians and a very funny choir.

This week we went up to the Adelaide Hills to Ukaria. This cultural Centre is purpose built for chamber music.

Beautiful Indigenous artwork at Ukaria.

Today we went to a play called Blindness.

It was a very different experience.

Based on Nobel Prize-winner José Saramago’s dystopian novel Blindness, England’s Juliet Stevenson’s gripping narration unfolds around you through headphones handed out on arrival.

The theatre goes dark, the seats are grouped in twos around a large warehouse space. The story is about a city facing an epidemic of blindness. Those affected are moved to a disused asylum. The city panics.

There are strobe lights that flash occasionally, surround sound so you feel like someone is whispering in your ear.

I listened mostly with my eyes closed!

The end is hopeful – but what an experience.

Later tonight. In fact st 8.30 we went back to the city for a cabaret jazz show.

In 1956, acclaimed jazz vocalist Ella Fitzerald did a season at Zardi’s Jazzland in Los Angeles. Tonight sublime jazz singer Louise Messenger and her band recreated the show at Zardis.

Louise Messenger

What a great night. This Festival is great. It’s well supported by locals. It’s struggled a little during covid probably more with this years very contagious omicron. Some shows cancelled during to the performer catching it.

But the show goes on.

I can recommend visiting Adelaide during this time. There is so much on at such a variety of venues. It never feeling over crowded.

Last Writers to Last Laughs

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We are rather enjoying our walk to the Pioneer Women’s Gardens. We walk down Melbourne St past the Lion Hotel then across some parklands to the pedestrian bridge and along past the Uni.

A lovely flat walk that I will miss. Unfortunately Lindy left her phone at home so had to retrace her steps! I’m fancy by the end other day she has walked 18,000 steps! She definitely deserved her ice cream treat this afternoon.

While Lindy walked back we started the first session. It was a look at Charmian Clift. I’ve been very interested in Charmian and her husband George Johnson since I visited Hydra island in Greece.

They were Authors – Australian , which ended up living on Hydra during the 70’s at a time when it was a place where creative bohemian types lived there. A young Leonard Cohen spent many summers there writing poetry.

Anthony Doerr author of All the Light We Cannot See talked about his new book Cloud Cuckoo Land in which he writes an imagined novel written by historical author Diogenes for his recuperating niece.

Doerr had us eating out of his hand. Such a great person. So engaging. He talked about his writing, his family and how life is here to be enjoyed. We shouldn’t sleep walk through it. And that we will never be as young as we are today!

Next up was Shelia Fitzpatrick

She is a leading historian on Russian history. She is one very knowledgeable lady who is able to explain things very succinctly. So if you want a book The Shortest History of the Soviet Union, is a lively, authoritative distillation of seventy-five years of communist rule and the collapse of an empire, and an examination of Russia’s ongoing influence on global politics under its current president.

Had a quick listen to Hannah Kent talking about her book Devotion. A change of pace for her.

Highlight was the duo of crime writers. Christen White and JP Polmare. Crime writing, Australian style. Young, sharp and engaging. These two are the ‘almost’ newcomers to the crime writing scene.

You have to check out their books. there are quite a few of them.

Christian wrote Clickbait for TV. You may have seen it ? Clever writer. Christian’s wife proof reads and advises him. Josh’s mother in law proof reads his! I was going to offer but it seems they have proof reading covered.

My sister in law had met up with us and I drove her home before heading off to the Fringe again

A great comedy show with four women comedians. Not Lizzy Hoo unfortunately! We missed her but had Mel Buttle, Claire Hooper, Nikki Britton and Zoe Coombes.

A good laugh to a small audience. I think covid is making a bigger impact this year. Shows are being cancelled with performers getting it.

I’m moving to my sister in law’s tomorrow so I’ll have to be careful around her teenage grandchildren. They have lots of friends at school catching it!!!

To my friends : Jill, Lindy and Ros – farewell and thank you for coming along to the Writers’ festival. I talked you into coming and I think we all loved it

Eating, Drinking Adelaide Day 5

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Today a day off the Writers’ Festival.

Not because we’re not loving it – we are. But we want to be tourists as well.

The David Roche House & Museum is a favourite of mine. Located in Melbourne Street not far from our Airbnb we decided on a tour of the house then a visit to o the museum.

Arriving right at 10 we were disappointed to hear that the tour was full.

So we regrouped and went into the museum. It was a collection of fashions by designers who were up and coming in the 70’s then died of an AIDS related illness.

Some great fashions by well known designers Halston, Moschino. A great exhibition.

Home

Like any tourist we decided to get the free bus. It’s a great service that travels quite some distance around the city in a clockwise and anticlockwise direction.

Next stop the wonderful Adelaide Markets. If you visit Adelaide these markets are a must. We explored each aisle. Coffee and a pastry called so a visit to Skala

Gorgeous lady with her Turkish Delight

We stopped for lunch at a delightful Colombian restaurant. The waitress was just gorgeous and before we knew it we had a Pisco sour in our hands and we were ordering some tapas.

A great lunch. We just wish we were here Friday night for their live music with dancing.

Back home on the free bus with a few bags with fruit ‘ vegetables as well as a gorgeous frittata – in case we get hungry!

Oh and a lovely bottle of Pinot Noir.

Monday Day 4

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No earth moving this morning. Just a slow moving start to our day.

The pace has been quite brisk so we took it slower today and walked to a coffee shop in Melbourne Street !

Then into the Writers Festival. Today we started with John Bell and Jonathan Biggins.

John Bell and Jonathan Biggins have spent their lives on the stage. John is famous as an interpreter of Shakespeare. Jonathan is best known as a leading political satirist and his show, The Gospel According to Paul, recently adapted into a book. They discuss their lives in the theatre, the essence of leadership and the power of imagination.

What a great session. Both so clever and their comments on leadership & politics both past and present were so insightful. And the comparisons drawn with Shakespeare were very clever. Must look at John Bells book

Next up Linda Jaivin.

Linda has written a sprawling history of China into a pacey, readable account of its origins, impact and influence. Named as one of the top five books on China of 2021, Linda Jaivin’s The Shortest History of China explores everything from China’s philosophical genesis to its contemporary political system.

Her session in China was informative and entertaining. She predicts that in the next ten years that these four things will be in the forefront of China’s planning.

Strong women, succession planning, corruption and disclosure of information.

Further information on China followed.

I caught some of the session with Jacqueline Bublitz author of Before you Knew My Name and Laura Elizabeth Woolley’s The Newcomer – a fictionalised account of the murder in 2002 murder on Norfolk Island.

So that was it for today.

We finished with a walk along North Tce calling in at the Museum, The State library past the Art Gallery and the University of Adelaide – where Ros studied Librarianship.

We walked back to our house via the beautiful Botanic Gardens.

Adelaide is a great city – a mix of old and new, great gardens, parks and walkways.

A lovely glass of Prosecco was our reward for over 11,000 steps today.

Then we headed back to the city to The Garden of Earthly Delights. Part of the Fringe Festival – there are many venues for events. we had dinner – Com hooding from the many good trucks around the gardens. We avoided the fairy floss.

Tonight for us it was the Real Housewives Choir. A fun one hour show, it gave a great taste of what is on at the festival. We sang along to some of the songs

Sunday Day 2 of the Writers’ Festival

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The earth moved this morning!

I was awake and about to get up when there was a rumbling and shaking. I laughingly called out to the girls ‘perhaps an earthquake! Or a train has run under our house. ‘

I didn’t think much more of it until Ros pointed out later that she read there had been an earthquake in Adelaide. Very brief and quite light on the scale but nonetheless an earthquake.

What a start to the day. It was also very cloudy and cool but the forecast predicted a nice day , no rain, so no umbrella needed.

We walked another way to the Pioneer Memorial Gardens checking out the trees And today we all had our phones so no problems checking in!

We checked the daily program because things change and unfortunately Brian Brown is unwell and won’t be speaking today. Instead there will be a tribute to Shane Warne.

For those who don’t know…… Shane Warne a former spin bowler of great fame passed away in Bangkok yesterday. He is a sportsman , a larrikin and always talked about with huge affection by Australians. He was once engaged to Liz Hurley the actress.

Our first session today was with Charlotte McConaghy. What a smart articulate young woman who has written a book so different that it should be read. It’s about wolves! After the culling of wolves in Yellowstone park the author was interested, researched the topic and decided to write a fictional book about introducing 14 grey wolves to the Scottish highlands.

The same author has written another award winning novel called Migrations. It explores the last journey of the arctic terns on their migration to the Antarctic.

Lots to read!

The next session was with Jennifer Downs. Another young author who has written a book of great sadness and empathy. I haven’t read this but it’s now on my list.

Next up a big story session Empire of Pain. Such a well written investigation by Patrick Radden Keefe. His account of the OxyContin abuse in America and the family of Doctors, the Sackler family, who developed it and made a fortune out of it – but have never acknowledged the damage done by this dangerous drug.

This is a really well written book , lots of detail but so accessible.

Next up, two icons of science in Australia. Peter Doherty and Barry Jones. both had some interesting points to make about the pandemic and the way it’s been handled in Australia.

Next up a big choice. Two young writers Diana Reid and Indiana Schneider. Both have written novels set in universities around the concept of consent.

OR The Big Switch with Saul Griffith who has developed a blue print for an approach to climate change that ensures more jobs and a healthier environment.

I took a little of both. Saul Griffiths is a laid back metallurgist with a lot to offer in getting people to accept we can do things differently when it come to renewables.

Time then to head up town.

And time for a cocktail. We visited 2KW a roof top bar.

Great views. Great cocktails.

A quick trip up to the Treasury Courtyard for a Fringe event. A bit of Soul & Blues by locals Mensforth Quintet. Featuring songs by Etta James, Nina Simone we were entertained for a good hour – enjoying a glass of wine.

What a day!

We finished with dinner back at our local pub The Kentish on Stanley Street.

Adelaide Writer’s Festival – Day 1

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Oh Adelaide you have turned in some great weather for the first day if the Writer’s Festival. Not too hot, not too cool.

We made a few plans over breakfast and walked down Melbourne St towards the Pioneer Women’s Memorial Garden.

Adelaide is a beautiful place to walk. It’s mostly flat, lots of parklands and a lovely river flowing through its centre.

We had an unhurried walk towards the river crossing on the footbridge arriving at Adelaide University.

Installation outside Adelaide University

Arriving at the entry gate I realised I had left my phone – and more importantly my covid certificate back at the house .

A little shuffling …….A paper sign in and I was in.

First session was Annabel Crabb. For those who don’t know her she is a lawyer, political journalist turned media personality, author, Podcaster , mother and great friend of Leigh Sales of 7.30 fame.

She is also a talker or as she admits is a babbler. She talked with another friend Miranda Murphy who stood in for Leigh Sales and is the editor of their book. Well Hello.

The book sounds great. It’s full of stories and recipes and funny stories.

Annabel kept us entertained for the full hour.

Coffee called so we took a break and explored the festival site. There are many more people here this year. In fact they were queuing at the entrance waiting to get in.

The next session was Christos Tsiolkas and Charlotte Wood. Christos is perhaps best know for his books The Slap and Barracuda – and both have been made into TV series. His latest book 71/2 is something different. it’s fiction but based on his own life experiences. It called auto fiction a term which he himself didn’t fully understand! In it he finds himself cut off from the world and becomes lost in the beauty of his surroundings.

Christos is friends with Charlotte Wood another well known highly awarded Australian author. I’ve read her books The Natural Way of Things and The Weekend.

Her latest book explores creativity.

Two talented authors talking about creativity and writing.

We enjoyed lunch under the trees taking in from afar the talk with Clem Bastow and Emma Jones. Both authors have written about their late diagnosis with autism.

Our last session was Liane Moriarty. Very well known for her popular books Big Little Lies and Nine Perfect Strangers she is a down to earth lovely person.

Her books – and there are many are very popular here in Australia. Her latest ‘Apples Never Fall’ is another well told story set in Sydney.

We decided to leave and walk back in the sun to get ready for a 6.30 Fringe Festival performance of Soul & Blues. Only it sold out ! So I’ve booked tickets for tomorrow night.

We spent some time choosing a few Fringe shows and booking tickets!

Tonight dinner at The Lion. My sister in law Marg, daughter Vashti and little Florence met us for dinner. Such a great catch up.

Hotel on Melbourne St.

Arriving in Adelaide

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Please Adelaide don’t rain. We have had way too much rain in Brisbane. It seems strange to be leaving when so many people are still cleaning up after the floods. Our thoughts are with you all

But here we are in Adelaide, ready to enjoy the Writer’s Festival. I loved it so much last year I talked a few friends into coming along with me.

An early start to avoid traffic, we had time for coffee before boarding. An easy 2 hrs later we landed in beautiful Adelaide.

Ros and I had found a great little terrace house in North Adelaide . This area is full of heritage, gorgeous stone terrace houses. The streets are lined with the most beautiful trees ready to change colour as Autumn arrives.

Our house is a charmer.

We quickly left bags and headed around the corner to a great little pub. The Kentish Arms. We sat outside and enjoyed a Gin & Tonic and a few shared tapas plates. This could become our ‘local’. Shortly after the Friday afternoon crowd started to arrive. It’s obviously a popular place.

The afternoon sun started to come out so we started exploring the streets while walking towards O’Connell St.

They don’t call Adelaide the city of churches for no reason.

The Adelaide Fringe Festival has started and there are lots of shows on offer. Comedy, singing, dance burlesque, bands …….We hope to get to a few, in between the Writer’s Festival. The first was a quick look at the O’Connell Twilight Fringe.

Jill waving to a friendly local

Laden with shopping bags we headed back to our lovely house – with a quick dash to The Kentish Arms for a bottle to share.

Dinner in our courtyard and we are feeling very happy to be ready to enjoy the Writer’s Festival.

What book have you enjoyed reading lately?

I’ve just finished The Island of Missing Trees by Turkish writer Elif Shafak. Set in Cyprus it was a fascinating read, where a fig tree is one of the main characters in the story. Elif is speaking at the festival. I loved it!

Farewell Lord Howe

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We’ve been here seven days but it feels much longer. I think because we were digitally removed from the world we totally rested.

No phones, wifi, tv, emails ……..

It’s quite refreshing. Try it sometime.

Our last morning was beautiful. Sun shining & water glistening. The quiet ….

Most of the friends we made over the week were leaving today. The airport is busy with four flights in and out. We exchanged email addresses and promises to keep in touch. Perhaps swim together next year.

After breakfast we visited the family cemetery next to Pinetrees Lodge. They have a long history with the island.

Pixie a 5th generation died in 2010

Walking through the little cemetery connected me to the family. They are a close family who care about Pinetrees and treat all guests as friends.

The present owners / managers of Pinetrees are Dani – daughter of Pixie and her husband Luke. Along with their two daughters Elsie and Pixie they continue the tradition.

Each guest is gifted the beautiful cookbook The Lord Howe Island Cookbook.

This beautiful book tells the story of the island and the families.

It’s a great read and is full of the recipes of the food we enjoyed so much this week.

Thank you Pinetrees and LHI for a wonderful week of memories. We’ll be back.

Readers I’m off to the Adelaide Writers’s Festival for a second year. Watch out for my posts.