Travel

New York New York

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The words of the Frank Sinatra song sums up New York.

“Start spreading the news. I want to be a part of it…..”

New York is without a doubt a fabulous city. This time my visit here is different. Not just a tourist, I’m here to visit my son and his new wife and a group of fabulous swim trek friends.

We arrived very late after delayed flights from Havana to Miami and Miami on to here. So we knew it was too late to have dinner with Rob & Jordan.

Our air bnb in Charles Street West Village is in a perfect spot. It’s in a pretty little street between 6th & 7th which is in the heart of the West Village. It a good air bnb but not perfect! No washing machine and for me, not enough light or places to hang things.

I’ve started to become quite an expert on what the perfect air bnb should have. But it is NY and though it’s small it’s well located and no mountain of stairs to climb.

When we entered, there on the table near the door was a framed photo with a note. It was from Rob and was a photo of me looking up at him. Happy Mother’s Day the note said.

Needless to say I got teary.

We headed off the next morning for the FDR memorial.

I’ve never been to Roosevelt Island – in fact I didn’t really know about it. It’s an island in the river across from the United Nations building which is next door to Lynn and Lois’ apartments.

We got the cable car/ tram across river and walked along the river front.

Lois told us the history of the island. It was called Welfare Island and was home to the sick and destitute.

We passed an old hospital- no longer used but so lovely.

Lois filling us in on Louis Kahn the architect who designed the memorial to Roosevelt but died before it was started.

Lois, a landscape architect , was one of 5 women out of 500 students, taught by Kahn. She found that glass ceiling.

Photo: Lois,Betty, Steve, Bill, Lexie, me and Barry.

We walked along the paths towards the point of the island. Like a ships prow.

It’s so good being back with the group we met in Galapagos. Betty from LA, Lexie from Mexico City, Bill from London, Barry from Toronto and Steve & I.

We puttered along after the memorial and took the sky tram back to the mainland for lunch at Moonlight on 59th street. a typical NY diner – a bit upmarket and great lunch food.

Then for some speed shopping.

Why is it that men can shop so quickly ? In about half an hour Steve bought 4 pairs of pants and 2 beautiful Ralph Lauren jackets and a belt! He headed home and I went shopping for myself.

I had about an hour, got locked out of dressing room and bought one pair of black pants and had very tired feet.

Finally caught up with Rob & Jordan after they finished work.

WWe headed up to Lynn Sherr’s apartment near to the UN building opposite Roosevelt island where we’d been this morning.

The apartment on the 16th floor is amazing and the rooftop had the most fabulous views.

The swim group were all there and we had the most wonderful fun night.

Beautiful food, great company and so many laughs. Very special.

Trinidad. Cuba. Let’s Salsa!

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Arriving in Trinidad was a different experience. It’s a cobbled city. Quite small with lots of coloured houses which gives a festive feeling.

It was raining when we arrived. The hot days are often punctuated with a downpour that lasts an hour or so.

It gave us a chance to check in and have a little rest.

The house we are in is on a street with lots of painted houses and some have a sign outside indicating they are a casa particular. They rent rooms to tourists. It makes such a difference to the lives of the people – making an income to supplement their government wage. Salaries are so low here. The owner of our house is an engineer who was paid 28CUC (about $28 a month). Renting a room, he can make about 20-30 CUC a night.

Our owner Reginald pulled out all stops in decorating our rooms. Ours is a beautiful blue and Marg’s is pink.

When the rain stopped we headed out to the cobbled streets walking towards the main square (and wifi spot!) it’s quite a busy little town and is known for its salsa clubs. Can’t wait to visit one!

We passed a few craft markets seeing things of a Cuba style. I just had to buy a bell for my collection.

We saw the Trinidad equivalent to the Spanish Steps. It was littered with people (mostly young people) on their iPhones taking advantage of the wifi.

Alex guided us around the town pointing out the best bars and coffee places.

We ended up for dinner on a roof top in another casa particular. It was a feast with far too much food. Simple cooking but nice ingredients. So far we’ve been fortunate to have Alex point out the best places to eat. The Government run restaurants look quite ok but are not good to eat at (according to our guide).

Walking back to our casa stumbling over the cobbles, we called into few craft places and I bought some cute ceramic earrings.

It couldn’t be the end of the night without a rum drink so as our casa also had a bar (in the kitchen!) we ordered a pina colada to enjoy before bed. It came with something pink floating on the top and was heavily laced with rum. Sleep came easily.

Today we headed to the beach. White sand clean water. Mojito.

Now we’re exploring the cobbled street of Trinidad and getting ready for salsa tonight.

A great dinner in a restaurant Alec suggested then off to salsa.

Some hot moves on the dance floor. There were a couple of men there to dance with the ‘lady tourists’ for tips I take it. Everyone seemed to be having a great time.

There was one girl. Turns out she was from Sweden and she was mesmerising to watch. She swayed and swung her hips. Her hands rotated above her head and we were entranced. Another had a lesson with a big guy with white trouser who swivelled those hips! We thought we’d like to have a go but thought we needed another lesson or 6!

Sorry. Photos hard to load!

Fantastic Fusterlandia

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I love discovering places a little off the radar.

Our guide Alex suggested a place called Fusterlandia. What is it you ask?

It’s a ‘Gaudi ‘ style creation.

It’s a street , a park, an area. And if it stands still it’s covered in mosaic tiles.

Needless to say I loved it. I love mosaics and this is mosaics in the community.

Our lovely taxi driver knew about it and drove us there, told us about it and then waited for an hour or so while we explored. It cost about 40 CUC for his time and well worth it.

Leon the driver was a great character and was so friendly and helpful.

The local kids were playing on the chairs scattered along the street!

It really 2 streets with a park and some walls around an oval each house has decorated their own fence or house.

It’s quirky, it’s fun, it’s communal.

I think all communities could embrace something fun like this. The more entrepreneurial people had set up little craft or food stalls.

Some of the walls were devoted to other Latin American countries. So creative.

The art works we’re great.

And the cars matched the fun.

Later that evening our visit to the Fabrica de Arte was not so successful. Despite enquiries we got there and it’s closed till June. Never mind. No art no party salsa 💃🏻 tonight. So we had a lovely dinner before returning to the old town walking around and enjoying the lighting on some fabulous buildings. And dropping into the hotel Floridita. Hemingway’s drinking bar. We’d seen it on the movie we watched on the bus. So we drank a final Pina Colada and salsa – ed our way home. We were slightly disappointed there wasn’t salsa in every open plaza : square. That would have been fun!

Che Day

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Today it was all about Ernesto Guevara. Or Che as he has become.

Our hotel last night was great and we had a lovely breakfast in the dining room. A smooth Alex arrived and gave is the run down on today’s activities.

We were to drive to Santa Clara about an hour away, but before that we visited the town plaza. Around a central garden stand some very grand colonial buildings. They are painted in different pastel colours and have colanades running along them which is handy in the hot sun.

We went into the arts co operative and loved the various arts and crafts. So bright and happy. Cuba certainly is colourful.

Then we tried to climb the building on the edge of the square with a high tower and a look out. Only problem no one arrived at 10 am to open up!

Next up was the theatre. It’s a really lovely building built by a wealthy sugar farmer back in the 1890’s. It’s still used for performance each weekend and us open to view for $5.

Unfortunately it’s been subject to the same decay that so buildings have been in Cuba. There hasn’t been the money to pay for restoration. So even though the whole square is Unesco listed they are in bad condition.

Last stop was the church. Very plain and in need of paint.

Paint can be hard to get apparently. Alex has bought an apartment with his wife and is trying to do it up. He can’t find any paint. He’s got the money but there just aren’t the supplies readily available.

Victor arrived with the bus and we got on for the hour long ride to the Che Guevara memorial. During the hour we watched a documentary on his life. He was certainly charismatic and driven and in the minds of the Cuban people he would be forever young.

In my opinion he seemed attracted not just by the cause and helping people overcome dictators but driven by the adventure.

We visited the museum and the memorial and it was quite moving.

Back in the bus we stopped next for lunch at a hotel. Quite attractive with a large empty pool.

Then it was across the mountains through sugar country to Trinidad.

The forms of transportation are varied – not many private cars, just taxis , tour bus, bikes and horse and cart.

This tower is not a church. It’s a tower that was used for watching slaves.

Until next time. Leave a comment!

sorry if the photos haven’t loaded. V slow internet.

Vinales to Bay of Pigs

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Vinales is a lovely quiet little town where the pace is slow, the people friendly and the food surprisingly good. We were told the food in Cuba was plain and rather ordinary and while it’s not Michelin standard so far it’s been fine.

Lots of rice yes! Last night we went to an eco restaurant on a hill on the outskirts of Vinales. All the food prepared for us was grown or raised on the farm.

We walked in the gardens – vegetable garden beds bursting with healthy plants and looked up at the house with breezy verandas.

The house faced the hills and the sun was just starting to set. It was quite beautiful.

The food started with a plantains and taro crisps & delicious vegetable soup then out came plates of roasted vegetable, chicken thighs, roast pork and shredded beef. Much more than we could eat!

We finished with creme brûlée and mint tea. No wine but we had a pina colada type drink with special herbs in it.

Today we left early, 8am and we knew it was going to be a long day as Alex planned a movie for us on the bus and Victor our driver was wearing a tie. Serious driving today.

We headed back in the direction of Havana and then in the direction of Giron and The Bay of Pigs. To give us some background Alex told us some history of the political life in Cuba including their heroes Fidel Castro, Che Guevara and what led up to the 3 day Bay of Pigs invasion by the Americans in 1961.

For a small country this is a big story. It is strategically placed only 90 miles from Miami and was wanted by Spain, America and Russia. Fidel led the revolution through the Baptista years. The country was crawling with Mafia types, communists and became a socialist country under Castro.

Then there was the ‘special period !’ In the 90’s when life for the Cubans became hard. It was anything but special. They were hard times. People were starving. Alex who is 34 said he remembers it well as there was so little food.

We arrived at the Bay of Pigs and had a swim. It was warm & tropical and lovely after sitting in the bus for several hours.

Next stop was the museum in Giron (passing Australia on the way)

to see the Cuban account of the Bay of Pigs invasion. Such a bad period of time.

We watched a short film and wondered what the American tourists would think.

There was a photo of JFKennedy who inherited the Cuba problem and didn’t seem keen to invade.

The Cubans are very pleased it wasn’t Trump in charge then!

We arrived at Cienfuegos and visited the former Palace. This small city is by the sea and in its former glory would have been lovely. The buildings are colonial style but many are in a state of disrepair.

We enjoyed our pina colada on the roof terrace before checking into the lovely old Union Hotel.

Tomorrow is Che day. All about that romantic political figure Che Guevara.

Perfect last day in New Orleans

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I thought we would get a little rest in NOLA after the wedding last week. I was wrong. It’s been all go. There is so much to see and do and we didn’t want to miss anything.

Today started with packing up our lovely air bnb as we move to a hotel in the French Quarter. Our travelling companions (if they’d come!) were to leave today so we had decided we’d pack up and move to a hotel for our very early start today Saturday 5th.

One last walk along Magazine St with a little shopping before lunch at Shaya. I’d been wanting to visit here as all the reviews and recommendations were so good. It’s an Israeli restaurant and it didn’t disappoint.

It’s modern in decor and the food is delicious. Fresh flavours and great ingredients. I loved it.

After we swapped to our new hotel we headed off on a walking tour with local Andrew and just one other walker. It was the music and art tour of the French Quarter. Andrew grew up in a tiny place a few hours from here. He was fun and knowledgeable and kept us interested for well over two hours.

The walk started in the Louis Armstrong park which has dedicated statues and sculptures to its musical residents.

We heard about the famous Satchmo and other musicians as well as the masks of the Mardi Gras and even about the voodoo religion and it’s symbols

We went on through the quarter across Bourbon St and into the artsy Royal St. there are so many galleries here with great examples of southern art styles including folk art and embroidery art.

We met the lovely Isobel from one gallery and her headpiece was itself a work of art.

Reluctantly we finished walking with Andrew and took an Uber to NOMA – the New Orleans Museum of Art. We could have spent ages here – including the Alexander McQueen exhibition but we came to walk through the Sculpture garden.

There are over 60 sculptures all donated by a couple from NOLA. It’s a beautiful garden with several bridges crossing a lake with the sculptures out in the open and hidden in gardens.

I loved this one which shows a stack of people balancing on each other’s shoulders reaching skywards.

And the big blue safety pin.

The ladder to the window ……..

And Barbara Hepworth, whom we had an ADFAS lecture on last year, had a piece on show.

All interesting.

We dashed back to Preservation Hall for another Jazz show. This was in a very old building has traditional jazz players entertaining a small crowd – and to get a seat you book early which I did. Otherwise it’s standing at the back!

The line up outside before each show made me pleased I’d booked online. No photos allowed inside.

Our last stop for the night was to meet two young friends. Logan, who is Jordan’s cousin, is a chef in NOLA. He and his wife couldn’t get to the wedding but was able to meet us for a drink.

We’ve met him once in Brisbane when he was working in Melbourne.

Then Rae arrived. She and her whole family are great friends of Peter. She got a green card in the lottery and now works in NOLA. She’s into vintage fashion and lots of fun.

We gave Logan and Rae our spare tickets to Jazz Fest. One each! Hope they have fun.

So one Rose too many we made our way through Bourbon St. It was really going off and is like a tacky sideshow alley. You certainly see some sights. Not all of them tasteful!

But the police are there to guard.

Our time is Nuawlins is up. It’s been fun and a great place to visit especially during a rather busy Jazz fest or Mardi Gras time.

Jazz Fest Time

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I’ve always wanted to ride on a Yellow school bus. Every since I was a little girl and saw them in tv series and movies. Today it happened. And it took me to Jazz fest.

Come along for the ride.

We pulled up just as music got started around 11. The breeze was blowing, the sun was out and the local jazz lovers were out in force with their chairs, umbrellas, hats, rugs, and coloured beads.

I feel like I did the first time I went to Woodford. Slightly too mainstream!

First stop Gentilly stage with the Alex McMurray big band. Good foot tapping music and a few solo dancers warmed up for the day ahead with a variety of dance moves.

Next stop a change of pace with The Tangiers Combo. A very sexy looking violinist, double bass, clarinet & guitar.

Then on to the biggest arena for the bad boys the Stooges big band. Big attitude. Big sound.

Then it was the Jazz tent and

Jeremy Davenport. A cool dude with a hot trumpet.

Smoking time at the jazz club. Economy’s tent girl singing “Take your time in the sun”

The crowd are mostly over 30. Well actually probably more like over 40. Depends which tent you’re in.

It warm – so the skin is on show and there’s lots of tats and lots hats, sunburn skin, umbrellas and iced drinks and ponytails ( men! )

I’ll try and capture some of the better outfits – some are a treat.

The food stalls are southern style. Plenty of Po boy, catfish, crawfish, gumbo, iced tea, beer, frozen alcoholic cocktails like pina colada’s and Bloody Mary’s. The crowd were getting into it – though I don’t think the Americans drink quite as much as the Aussies.

Lunch for me was a huge bbq turkey wing with….. beans! Steve had a shrimp Po boy.

Next up the kids street band

and back into the tent for the Preservation Band. With a warm up Congo line. I had to resist the temptation to dance along along. Though I did ambush one of the ‘dancers’ –  though he was very sad looking and unimpressed by my request for a photo.

Then back to the Jazz tent for Banu Gibson and her band with special guest Vince Giordano from NY. Apparently they are all really well known trad jazz players. They actually looked more like Doctors! They played a favourite song ‘Baby won’t you please come home.’

Steve got distracted between shows and ended up with a Jazz fest Tshirt before sliding into the Gospel tent for some meaningful music.

Then in the Blues tent the well received ‘The Blind Men of Alabama’.

They may be blind but they can sing and even had someone signing the words to their songs. That was interesting to watch!

But our final two concerts were Lyle Lovett the more country style jazz man ………

Then the big name – Lionel Ritchie. Yes I came all the way to NOLA to see him when he came to the Byron Blues fest.

But there he was singing up a storm with everyone on their feet dancing. It was great.

So that was my day at Jazz Fest. It was so much fun. They love their music here. The crowds were so well behaved and the people here are so friendly.

We made it back to the yellow bus line before Lionel hit the last note.

So it was back to Magazine St to Mahoney’s for a beer and hot dog for Steve and something lighter for me!

Tomorrow’s our last day 😩. But it will be a big one. Lots planned.

Today we have ‘Gone with the Wind’

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Plantations are big here – both in size and reputation. We decided on a Plantation tour and not an alligator tour.

But which house do we visit? I read reviews and decided on Houmas House or the ‘Sugar House’ because it has a big reputation as a great example of a grand home.

I didn’t want to visit one with the slavery story. That is too sad.

We weren’t disappointed. Houmas House is grand and Southern style and the gardens were amazing.

We had an hour bus ride out along the swampy flat land in the direction of Baton Rouge. The driver was a super speedy guy – definitely the stunt driver from the movie Speed!

Arriving at the house was underwhelming at first as there is now an aluminium plant nearby with chimney stacks and smoke!

But pulling into the drive was like stepping back in time. All the attendants wear period costumes and the grounds are heavenly.

There were many sculptures in the garden both playful and decorative. So much money!

We heard the story of the building of the plantation. It’s named after the local Indian tribe. It was mainly a sugar plantation with 1,000 slaves working there. It made a fortune for its owner. It sold after the civil war for $1.5 million. That’s a lot of money for back then.

Our guide Susan took us through the house and had lots of stories. It’s a pity she spoke so fast ! Hard to follow her.

The present owner lives there in two rooms and is up and out each morning before the house opens. He’s not married but loves his dogs. Apart from close friends people don’t know who the owner of the house is or what he looks like.

Another heart thumping trip back to NOLA for a short rest before we went off to dinner. Now that’s a whole other story.

Wedding Eve

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A girl from California, Jordan, meets a boys from Brisbane, Rob, on a beach in Barcelona. They have many friends from around the world.

Today they started to arrive and gathered for a beach fiesta. No quiet pre wedding dinner. No, it was a pre wedding party in a stunning location. Chilly yes, but layers were added and tequilas were drunk.

Friends from Spain, Belgium, England, New York , Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane.

Old school friends , family, waterpolo friends , cousins, aunties ……..

The taco man backed his truck in and fed us all. The drinks flowed and so did the laughter.

A great start to the party.

Tomorrow is the big day.