Author: brisbanefrannie

Village Life in France

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A storm last night cooled things down. Rain was needed in the area after some fires last week so we couldn’t complain about the heavy rain yesterday afternoon.

But would it stop today’s activities ?

Up earlier to prepare for Boules. This game is loved by the French. It’s also know as Pétanque or as Bocce in Italy. Each little village has its own boulodrome and you often see groups of French men playing quietly on the rough pebbly surfaces.


We drove to nearby village of Salernes but were early so had coffee in the main shady Place. The village is known as a ‘crafty’ village and the mosaic planters and crocheted posts through the village support this.


Boules started at 10 and today’s games were organised by the local British Association. John and Margaret have joined this group to give a network of friends when visiting their house for longer periods of time. Getting into a social scene can be difficult in a village particularly if your French is not fluent. The French are friendly but difficult to break into socially.


Most of the people playing this morning are retirees from England. Two are married to French women and the others have all bought homes in the area. They all now speak French. Quite an assorted group!

We got underway after lobbing our boule towards the little white ball known as the cochonnet or jack and being given a partner depending on our lob. Poor  John got me ! and I’m sure he though I’d be hopeless.

But he was surprised (and I)  when it turned out I could actually lob my boule in general direction of the cochonnet, sometimes right next to it! . We were on a winning streak! Until our very last game when local Englishman Michael, definitely not a sporting figure, managed to out boule us.


Then off to lunch in a local restaurant. A long table set on a shady terrace looked innocent enough until the fun began. Most of the crowd were great company but there was an undertone that wouldn’t have been out of place in a John Motimer novel similar to ‘Summers Lease.’

It seems one gentleman (parked by his glamorous French wife, Marie Franc,  who headed for the other end of the table) is known for his over indulgence of the local wine and then upsetting other people. And today he was seated next to  me and I was able to observe some insults being hurled in a similar fashion to the boules earlier in the morning.

Such fun at lunch!

Margaret was offering to swap seats but I was thoroughly enjoying myself and then the main protagonist started to fall asleep. The wine was working.

We finished up at 3 after sorting out a few problems over ‘L’addition’  where a few seated near the trouble maker didn’t want to pay for his overindulgence of wine. Oh the intrigues of life in a French  village!

After lunch Bill,  one of the very friendly chaps invited us into his house nearby. They built it about 7 years ago but look like selling and returning to England. His wife doesn’t attend the boules so it was nice to meet her.

Back to Cotignac for siesta and then a walk through the little streets  finishing with a Rose under the shady trees. I love this place. It’s a really beautiful village and has a great feeling.

The end of another beautiful day. Market day tomorrow.

Sunday Festday. 

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Today started with the beautiful bells ringing out across the village. Good morning Sunday.

We had breakfast by the kitchen window and planned our day. This included a  visit to Siellans , a nearby village.

Today they are  having a Saffron Festival. The French love a festival as much as the Italians love a Sagra. And we wanted to check it out.

Before we could leave,   the loud sounds  came crashing though the window. The Marseillaise!  I stuck my head out and there, at the  War Memorial, was a band and a small group holding flags. The stirring anthem was followed with a short speech by the Mayor, another version of the Marseillaise and then they left and walked down the Main Street.

 

Typical village life and I love it. I just need to speak French!

The drive to Siellans only took about 15 mins. We found an easy park and wandered into the village. By now we needed coffee or Cafe Creme as its called here.

We sat and enjoyed the activity  of the festival as it started to get lively,  when we saw Dani, a neighbour of the Brannocks in Cotignac. In fact it was at Dani’s B&B I stayed when I first visited the Brannocks back in 2012!  I had arrived in the village before they had arrived for their very first visit to the share house they had bought with friends.  I found Dani and her cute B&B right across the narrow street from John and Margaret’s house.
 She greeted us and took our photo and told us that she would be exhibiting her stained glass at an exhibition this week. She also gave us a leaflet for a classical concert her choir would be performing at this week.

So many options!


We enjoyed the activity of the saffron festival which included a l parade of little children and older people all dressed in costume,  walking through the the streets to a musical accompaniment.

 Not unlike the one we saw in Alberobella last week.  But the Italians included a silly game where they made a human donkey  and  tried to see how many children could jump on his back. Very funny!  Here much more restrained.

We bought some saffron threads for a risotto later in the week, some saffron in vin rose and some raisin cordial with a hint of saffron. We joined the crowd for a quick cooking demonstration.


So we are all set for enjoying the wares of the festival.

Arrivederci

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A day’s travel is many things: Time wasted at train stations or airport, time to rest and be forced to do nothing, a test of patience, time to write, time to read. The activity I enjoy most – along with reading – is to observe.

You see all types of people travelling. Fascinating.

We drove to Bari and delivered the car to Avis. Easy to find in busy traffic.  We don’t get a Sat Nav. I use my iPad. I load in the map and route we are taking, when I have wifi, and then I can just follow along. A blue throbbing dot marks our location. Even without wifi. It’s like magic.  Much better than Sat Nav.

While we waited  for our train we went back to the cafe we had visited on our first day in Bari. Very good juices, sandwiches and salad. And I swear the man behind the counter remembered me! And the opera of the two tarty women trying to pay for a 5 Euro coffee with a number of obviously fake 500 Euro notes!

Then it was a onto the train. 1st class! But it wasn’t the Orient Express. It just meant we got our own seat. We got a drink and a snack! The ticket guard on board was a Montelbano type. Bald hair, tan skin and good looking in his own way. If you haven’t seen Inspector Montelbano do yourself a favour and watch it. It’s set in Sicily, has subtitles and is great fun. Montelbano gets to solve crimes.

Yesterday we met Antonelle at a cafe. He was very taken with us Australians. We chatted about things with him and somehow policemen came up. Steve said ‘like Montelbano?’  He laughed and replied. Not all all. They don’t get to solve any crimes in real life!

The train trip was fine. All ran well and before we knew it we were on our way from Rome Termini to Fiumicino to stay at a hotel not far from the airport. I chose Hotel Tiber right on the coast where the River Tevere flows into the sea. Not bad for our last night in Italy.


We walked along the river past all the fishing boats,  looking for a restaurant. The only ‘Opera’ we saw was the altercation between the driver of the tourist train and the man delivering things from his double parked truck! The train had clipped his door. Much shouting and arm waving, before all was resolved  and then waving a cheery farewell to each other and it was all over.


The T-shirt saying ‘I can’t stay calm. I’m Italian’ came to mind!

We chose a restaurant  that looked typically Italian, but in the old fashioned sense. No red checked table clothes. Nice white ones with older gentlemen waiting the tables. We knew we were away from friendly southern Italy by the haughty manner of the waiter once we sat down. He barely looked at us. Refused to speak Italian to us and was very dismissive. There goes his generous tip I thought!

Happily we enjoyed the food and the Piedmont wine and then walking home we could see, or rather hear, some recorded voices. We rounded a corner into a little piazza and there were chairs set up facing a stage. Cinema style. It was the local summer outdoor theatre.


We walked towards what looked like a very old fashioned movie just in time to hear ‘we’ll be landing in Brisbane in a few minutes!’  Then an aerial view of an old fashioned Brisbane. This was a old movie about a woman coming to Queensland as part of the bride scheme. Back in the 50’s. We had to stay and watch and it was so funny. I told the women near us we were from Brisbane. She was lovely and described that this film though old was a favourite!


The film took the poor,  but beautiful Italian bride to be, on a long journey to get where her future husband lived. They went to Port Douglas, Uluru, Melbourne, an island that  looked like Stradbroke, Sydney, Broken Hill and finally the house , in a hick town where  she was to live. Of course during the journey she fell in love with the man, Amadeo. Of so funny!

So the prediction was right. Tomorrow Steve indeed would be landing in Brisbane.

Whilst I continue my adventure in Cotignac.

Mamma Mia. Last day in Trani

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We survived party night inTrani!  Almost as good a party as in Tarifa last year. The crowds below our apartment kept the chatting up until at least 3am. Not loud screams or obscenities or ever drunkenness. Just lots of talking and laughing.

We woke to golden sunlight, looking out across the port providing the best wake-me-up there is.


A fairly leisurely start with coffee in a nearby cafe before heading off to find Santa Maria di Siponto.

On our way to the car I did my good deed of the day. We were crossing a small street and a little old lady called to me. I went over to her and she asked me to help her across the road. I gave her my arm and we walked along chatting. I had to bend over to hear her she was so little.


She told me she was 92! Her daughter lived in Milan and she had lived in Trani for 30 years. She talked on and on in Italian and I was tested!  We walked another block together before we thanked me and turned into her apartment. She’d been out shopping – in the heat. What a sweetie.

So we arrived ( finally – as we got  a little lost). Signs here are almost non existent except for signs to the beach or Lido or the buffo mozzarella factory!  This Basilica, Santa Maria, was built in 1117 and had many changes  in fortune over the years. It had been abandoned for many years. Until ……

Recently,  Edoardo Tresoldi created a wire mesh impression of the church  – an artistic interpretation of the Basilica, which was abandoned following a 13th-century earthquake and currently sits on what has become the Archaeological Park of Siponto.

It’s an amazing sight.



He has even created some mesh people,who of course we befriended.



We drove back along the coast and explored the seaside villages and enjoyed the names of the ‘Lido’ (“Lidi?”) scattered along the coast. Everything from Bikini Lido to Ipanema, Fanta, Torre, African. Variety is the key! And the deck chairs and umbrellas, as far as the eye can see.

We arrived back at siesta time and decided to pack! Yes, sadly we go tomorrow. To Bari, then by train to Rome. We have a night there and then poor Steve flies home. Board meetings in Melbourne on Tuesday. I’m going off to Cotignac to visit our friends the Brannocks. Lucky me!

So the travel tales continue.

So this afternoon, after a little shopping, we had our last Trani, Aperol Spritz for me and beer for the boy.


We observed the locals. I feel we are getting to know them! We went to the same bar and saw the same people walking. The Nonno with his grandson. The fisher monger who today was able to get his cart through the little lane. The man with the turned up collar being driven to his restaurant on a Vespa by one of his waiters. The handsome man on a pink bike who stops at the corner to observe and make a call (who to I wonder?). The mamma in the cute Smart Car who drops her daughter to work in the cafe. The teenager who rides the littlest, noisiest bike imaginable. And doesn’t he love the attention! The mother and daughter jogging together. All the nonno and nanna’s walking and sitting along the promenade.

I feel we know them already.

We had our passeggiata and talked about the things we would like to bring home.
I’d love the long paved promenade with all its wooden benches at our beach. Also the stepped stone fence available for people to sit on and watch the world go by.

I’d love for people to turn off the TV and go out walking after dinner. But I wonder where we would walk? To the beach?  But there aren’t many places to sit and see and be seen. We need to embrace the sociable side like the Italians do.

As you can hear in my voice, I love the Italians. Yes,  they can be thoughtless – they throw rubbish out their car window! They push in, in traffic! But they love children. They love eating and they love a chat.

After dinner we strolled and I felt like a piccolo gelato. So we stopped in and I ordered mine. Panecotta. Steve thought he’d have the Cafe Speciale. It was advertised on the board outside. So in his best Italian lubicated with wine and after dinner limoncello he ordered ‘Cafe Speciale’. And got a coffee.

So as I’m writing this I’m listening to the church bells and watching the crowds gather for another night that isn’t a party night. It’s just the usual – people sharing a common space.

IMG_2361.jpgOur apartment on the corner – top floor with a balcony over both streets!

So for now – arrivederci!

Sleepy little Port? I think not!

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We had our siesta – which included the last hour of today’s Tour de France.

Then the streets of Trani. What is it about this place that makes it special?

We had to re-park the car. Fredrica told us we had to ‘be gone’ by 7pm when the area in front of the port becames ‘for the people.’ I love this. It’s all about people enjoying themselves. But what people?  It’s seems no one is here. It’s so quiet.

So we drove through the the quiet streets just before 5.  The unofficial end of siesta. We found a carpark. We hope we don’t get towed.

Then it was our own form of passeggiata. Through the local gardens. Oh what a feeling. I love gardens in any place and these are so special by the sea. I’m really a sea person I’ve decided.


We walked, we talked. The afternoon light was romantic.

We walked through the quiet streets as they woke up. People on bikes, people talking and gesticulating as Italians do with their hands

Eventually we reached the Cathedral. The dramatic seafront cathedral is dedicated to St Nicholas the Pilgrim, famous for being foolish. The Greek Christian wandered through Puglia, crying ‘Kyrie eleison’ (Greek for ‘Lord, have mercy’). They thought he was a simpleton, but eventually he was revered after his death (aged 19) after several miracles attributed to him occurred.

Well poor Nicholas chose a fine place. It’s simple, it’s moving, it was startling in the afternoon sun. I had to sit inside to  recover.


The streets back to the port were quiet with just a few children out kicking soccer balls.

Then we hit the fish markets along the front of the port. Chaos! Cat calling. Every few metres there was a table with plastic bins filled with little fish. Fishermen trying to sell their fish.  Not big ones. Are the waters overfished?

The men and boys were calling out their catches. Others were repairing nets. It reminds me that this is still a fishing port.



Feeling just a little tired we stopped at one of the many bars along the port front. Naturally,  an Aperol Spritz for me and a large beer for Steve. We relaxed and watched. Probably my favourite activity.

Then the Opera started.

A large group arrived at the bar next door. A group of happy,  though sadly, disabled adults and their carers. They settled into the cafe and gelato started to appear. They were singing and clapping and showing us all how to be delighted  by the simple act of sharing a gelato.

Then one of the fish mongers came along pulling his cart. You could tell he was keen to get home. As he turned into the little street next to our bar he came upon a motorbike, parked so he couldn’t move forward. He called to us? Vostra ? No. Not ours. He called loudly. His friend arrived. They both called loudly to the people around.

I knew who had been so inconsiderate. I’d seen him park. I searched for him in the crowd. Mr white linen shirt!

Finally,  they I found him. Instead of telling him off or rudely swearing. They thanked him. Drama over.

I love these Italians. All drama. Then it’s over.

I saw a man earlier today, wearing a t shirt I loved and I just had to ask permission to take his photo. This to me says it all.


Our afternoon became evening and we went to a restaurant recommended by Fredrica. Naturally it served fish! So we chatted to the waiter. No English from him,  so I was tested! But we managed to order whole fish, grilled for me and Pugliese style for Steve. And a lovely local white.

Our waiter taught me a new word. Instead of ‘Lei’  when referring to a woman  – in this area they are called Etta! (that’s the name of the wine he suggested we try.)  I hope that’s right! I believed him.

Hope I didn’t learn a new swear word.

Now I’m sitting on our little balcony overlooking the not so quiet street below. It’s 12.34 am! And the action is still happening! Hope this little video works. Look for the Cathedral at the end.


Good night from Trani.

Terrific Trani a friendly Port 

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Slept so well last night after a wonderful dinner on the terrace at the Borgo San Marco.



Today – Wednesday and we set out for a fairly shortish drive up the coast to Trani. We stopped at a few little beach side places along the way including Monopoli a larger port. It was just lovely. Not touristy , certainly no Australians!

It has a wonderful Cathedral dating from the 12th Century  it’s in  great condition and is having even more work being done outside. We saw a priest talking to someone who looked like a architect/ builder and I’m sure he was asking for further discounts on the work.

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I’m sure if I had this as my local church I would go every day. It was full of light and the paint work was stunning.

We moved on to Molfetta another port and found a lovely little restaurant, quite modern, right on the rocks near the port. Steve a had a burger with a twist. It had a curry flavoured crispy bun! I had ….. Salmon and veg! We’re certainly not missing out on any good food. But we are very good. No eating between meals!

 

view from our little table built into the stone fence.

Continued up the coast to Trani as we wanted to arrive in time to enjoy the apartment and the views. Also it’s best to arrive during siesta as the streets are quiet and it’s easy to park. Lovely Fredrica met us and the apartment is right on the front facing the port and will be wonderful for two nights. I could stay here two weeks! Check out the views in the next photos.



Naturally Steve is relaxing watching the last 20 km of the Tour de France before we explore the town.

Out the door is the wonderful view of the Port.

After siesta we intend to explore the narrow streets surrounding the port. The Cathedral is supposed to be spectacular as it is one of the few in Italy right by the water. Fredrica told us this isn’t a very touristy place. It’s mostly used by local Italians for a getaway. What a place. Our friends from Sydney – the Roberts told us about this little port – and now I’m telling you ……

More exploring tonight and tomorrow ……

Have you got any little secret locations you would like to share? Please put into the Comments Box.

From Sea to Farm

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One last breakfast on the terrace overlooking the sea. Goodbye Palazzo Senape de Pace.

So along with my own ‘Dan Brown’ we headed off for Ostuni – the white hilltop town over looking the Adriatic Sea. It’s quite a big town and all roads lead up past beautiful gardens to the Cathedral at the top.


The mosaic dome on the cathedral can be seen from far away and the white washed houses shine in the sun. It’s interesting how different areas have different types of features. This one is bianco. It’s not far from Alberobella where we started our Puglia journey. It was all white as well but with the pointy stone roofs.


After lunch we head for our night’s accommodation, a Masseria – a farm stay. Or agritourismo as they are called up north. There are lots of them around here. They offer lovely accommodation often a ‘wellness centre’ and an evening meal. We heard about this one from friends and decided to try it.


I’m so glad we did. Arrival at big iron gates set the tone. The white buildings are  clustered farm style around a courtyard with a chapel, lovely gardens and a beautiful pool area. . Beautiful main rooms and lovely separate bedrooms. It’s charming and practical all at once.

Steve likes the pillows and towels. they have SM embroidered on them!

I’m sitting beside the lovely swimming pool listening to the different accents of the guests, some with children and one family with an Asian nanny.

We’re looking forward to tonight’s meal. It sounds wonderful.

Before then a swim,  a nap and walk in the olive groves.

Palazzo Tour

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  • There’s something lovely about breakfast on a terrace with a beautiful view. Do you agree?

Today we sat on the terrace and had coffee and planned our day.


We planned a trip to the beach but before we left we spoke to Sonia our host at the Palazzo. I asked could we have a tour of the house as our Swiss friends had yesterday and told us the owners were happy to show guests their house.

She was lovely and organised her father to take us.

We had to walk out our door No 27 and along to No 39 -they own it all. We re entered and Luigi Senape was there to greet us. He guided us through their private Palazzo. Too many rooms to count. All very luxurious. He explained the family history – all in Italian and we understood almost all.

Luigi Senape in one of the tooms of the Palazzo

The Palazzo has been in the family for 300 years. Luigi grew up in this place and like his father was an advocat – a lawyer.

There are many old valuable items in the house including 3 pianos,  one a grand which Luigi plays.


He was so charming and at the end told us he was 88.


In the library Steve saw a Dan Brown book he had just finished. He pointed it out and said (in his best Italian) that he had just read it.


Later in the afternoon, after our trip down the coast I saw his daughter and she asked if my husband was Dan Brown!

Lost in translation!

So after the Grand Tour we left for the rest of our day…….

A drive down the coast road to the tip of Italy. A little seaside place called Santa Maria da Leuca.

To get there we drove past : hundreds if not thousands of Italian beach lovers with their umbrellas, plastic deck chairs, buckets, spades, blow up play things. And all the women wear bikinis. Young, old, thin and not so thin. I’m definitely overdressed.

It’s a colourful scene and proves its not just Australians who love the beach!

We stopped for coffee at a little beach side cafe. All blue and white tables and a smiley, friendly nonna served us – but it was very windy so we didn’t swim.

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We passed trattorias, osterias, cafes, apertivi bars, camping grounds, holiday homes with shutters down against the heat or …..perhaps they were empty?

We arrived at SS d Leuca in time for a lovely swim and picked a place for lunch right on the beach. The place in the photo above the blue umbrellas.


Once again simple delicious food

We watched the swimmers and soaked up the atmosphere.

Naturally we finished with a gelato – just a small one! As we walked also the promenade.

We arrived back at Gallipoli and our Palazzo Senape and decided to take another swim. This time at the beach at the end of our street.

I love the blue mats running down the sand so when you get out you don’t have to get sandy! This beach unlike many of the rocky beaches has coarse sand.

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We’re back at the Palazzo writing and preparing for dinner at Bastion a lovely looking restaurant recommended by our hosts.

More later!

Otranto

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Yesterday we drove across the tip of Italy. The heel.

I had agonised on which seaside town to stay in and opted for Gallipoli over Otranto.

Gallipoli sits on a little island so is surrounded by water. Little bays for swimming, small boat harbours. It sounded more laid back than Otranto. So I found our Palazzo and sealed the deal.

Then Simona, our guide in Lecce said although they were both lovely she likes Otranto ‘A little more sophisticated ‘she said knowingly. Oh dear I thought had I made the wrong decision.

So yesterday we spent in Otranto. It’s different. It had a wide blue bay for swimming and a little boat harbour on the side. It’s old town is charming. But it’s very touristy. Very crowded.


We did enjoy the beautiful mosaics in the Cathedral. Magnificent.

The castle perched squarely on the edge of the harbour has been restored and is used for exhibitions. We saw a wonderful photographic exhibition by Steve McCurry. He takes great photos of people in remote areas. So beautiful photos of people living in India, Cambodia, Pakistan , Africa. Such faces.
We had lunch and a small opera and continued walking along the sea front. It has more clothes shops and restaurants than Gallipoli but not the secret charm.

So as we drove back to Gallipoli I was happy with our decision.

Sunsets over the water are always breathtaking and we loved the one on show tonight. Almost the same colour as my Aperol Spritz!



Another lovely dinner at Tre Sorelle and a limoncello on the terrace of our Palazzo chatting and sharing stories with some Swizz travellers.

Oh I forgot to mention I still love vespers!


And so to bed. The room has a wonderful  ceiling!

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An Italian Opera

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No we didn’t get to an Opera last night. We went out for dinner in a local osteria. It’s almost the same.

We joined the local passeggiata at apertivo time and enjoyed the atmosphere of Gallipoli. The village seemed quiet, but after siesta the whole town woke up and got onto the Main Street which of course is for pedestrians only.

We saw couples walking arm in arm. Babies sitting alert in their strollers learning about being Italian. Children scampering around and swinging on the chain fence surrounding the church. People sipping Aperol, Campari and wine red or white. And nibbling on olives.

We saw a young,  just married couple walking through the town accepting all the well wishes from the locals. The husband, a policeman, was resplendent in his uniform with several friends looking equally wonderful.




Then we found a little restaurant that looked good. It had a crowd – which at 8.30 is amazing in Italy. And they weren’t tourists. So I went in and asked for a table to be told no. I decided to book (in my very best Italian) for the next night and used the name Francesca. Then the owner, who looked a little like an actor from a TV series, came over and said they would bring the table in from outside for us. Much scrambling around and …….. we were seated.

We had a wonderful meal. Probably the best (except of course the special one from the Grotto on day 1). We shared fritters of seafood so crisp and light they were delicious, along with grilled vegetables. Then Steve had sea beam baked in the oven topped with crisp  mashed potato. I had fresh tuna with rocket and tomatoes and cheese. Yum!

No room for dessert or even gelato tonight. Though we did enjoy the limoncello offered with the bill. And then went out and bought a bottle for the room. Another addiction from my trips to Italy. Somehow it always tastes better here?



We were in a prime position to observe our fellow diners. There was the young couple obviously in love but also very hungry. The birthday table for a young woman’s celebration. And the table of fakes. I called them that because there was a lot of Botox going around. And fake boobs. Oh boy.

They went to leave and stood at the pay table where the own Mr TV series sat like mission control and I’m sure he strung out the farewell so he could have a good look.

So our night out was both delicious and entertaining. What more could we ask for?


Our little courtyard outside our room.