Lecce you are Lovely

July 15, 2016January 2, 2017 / brisbanefrannie / 7 Comments

Today is Friday and we are feeling sad about the terrible tragedy in Nice. Travel is wonderful but these days there is an element of danger. But we won’t let it stop us.

So today we met our guide for the day. Lovely Simona. I found her website and booked a three hour tour. It’s great going with a local and as it turned out she lives around the corner from our apartment.

We set off and she began to tell us about life in Lecce both now and in the past. She is a born and bred local, though her partner Tim, she described as more English than the Queen !

We walked and she pointed out the features on the buildings. This was a wealthy area in days gone by due to production of wine, olives and tobacco. There are a number of large Palazzo, now either privately owned or broken into apartments. In this way it’s like the very lovely areas of Rome.

We looked at the markings above the doors, the churches, Cathedral and Basillica. They all have a story.

The really interesting thing about Lecce is the use of Cartapesta or paper mâché as as an art form. Used to make statues, it is particular to this area. It’s used in Venice for making masks but here it’s in the churches. You can hardly tell the difference between the statues made from Paper mâché , wood and stone. Such craftsmen.

We visited one shop in a quiet area behind the Cathedral and had a nice talk with the owner. A lovely lady named Stefania. Ginetta – you and Em would love this work. Her more modern work is also amazing. She had made a bustier you would love and a dress. And a mermaid!

We looked at the altars of different style – Baroque and Renaissance.

Baroque

Renaissance

Such beauty in one place.

We had to stop for a refreshment. A coffee over ice with a dash of almond milk to make it sweet. Delicious. It’s called ‘Cafe in Ghiaccio con latte Di Mandorle’.

More walking and talking and noticing things we would otherwise have missed – including the drain cover marked with the city symbol of the she-wolf and the oak tree; and the fascist symbol from the 1930’s.

Significant symbols everywhere.

We retreated to our apartment for a piccolo siesta and to catch up with the Tour de France

Then it was time for our passeggiata. We walked, we shopped, we had a glass of wine and we watched others doing the same.

Dinner was at Osteria 203 recommended by Simona. It was a beautiful meal with a gorgeous bottle of local red. To make it more special we watched a parade go past our restaurant. It was to take St Carmine back to her church. Accompanied by a band. Steve thought the band almost unique – not because of the typical Italian playing con gusto and slightly off key – but of the 40 or so members, no three of them were in step even with each other!

After dinner walked some more and visited another lovely shrine – the most popular Gelateria named Natale. What a place.

Buona notte my friends

Please leave a comment about something you love when you travel

The Sassi of Matera

July 11, 2016July 12, 2016 / brisbanefrannie / 2 Comments

Most Australians don’ t put Matera, in the little known Province of Basilicata, on their list of places to visit in Italy.

Now I’m wondering why not?

It’s an amazing place. Built into the caves of the hill, the houses are centuries old. Matera consists of 2 Sassi. Sassi Caveoso and Sassi Barisano. Picture a butterfly: it’s body is the ridge where the now new town is built and the wings either side are the two Sassi. The caves are stacked so the path you walk down is actually the roof of the cave below.
We are staying in Sassi Caveoso in a B&B in an old cave. It’s a wonderful experience.

When we arrived yesterday and looked down from the ridge I wondered at my stupidity at booking something that looked inaccessible by car. But it turned out you can drive down a narrow winding street drop of the bags then drive up park and walk in. Steve managed it all very well!

Looking back across to our cave B&B. its the one above the lone white umbrella on the piazza

But it’s worth it. Tizianna our host at the B&B only speaks Italian so I have had to use my Italian to speak to her. She’s charming and even understood my request for gluten free.

Our bedroom has a terrace and we look at the Sassi across from us. Last night we had dinner at Francesca’s just near the B&B. It was very good. I had a gluten free pasta with canelli beans, mussels in a pesto sauce. Delicious.

Then as we were preparing for bed there was an almighty BOOM across the valley. The most colourful fireworks started and went on for ages. We sat on the terrace and enjoyed the front row seat. I asked Tizianna what it was all about and she said it was the festival of the local Saint – a festival that lasts two weeks and last night was the conclusion.

This morning we had breakfast on the terrace before heading off to meet Antonio on the ridge looking down over the Sassi. He was a lovely young man. So good looking it was distracting!

Lovely Antonio our guide

We joined a family group from Ireland and they were perfect to have on the walking tour with us. Antonio led us all around the Sassi telling us stories about how the caves were used in the past and how they are used now. He pointed out they have just transformed over 3,000 years as the uses changed. They have always been occupied.

Then in the 1950’s the Government removed the occupants and bought all the cave houses. The living conditions were so bad that was the only way forward. Now the city has developed a tourism industry that comes from the uniqueness of these strange houses. So people are leasing the houses back – for almost nothing , then the new occupants renovate them and start businesses. Like the one we are in – Le Corte dei Pastori.
He told us Matera is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and has been chosen as one of two cities in the world to be listed in 2019 as a cultural centre so they will be expecting many more tourists to come. So if you are planning to come make sure it’s before the large group tour companies put it on their list.

We walked with Antonio for 3 hours in and out of cave houses, churches and lookouts and ignored the heat bearing down on us. It was so interesting and Antonio was very knowledgable. And did I mention good looking?

There were 156 churches in this city. Big ones and little ones in caves

We finished at 1pm and made our way to a cafe with beer. Steve is in training to swim the straits of Messina on Wednesday.

The segways here are shaped like a Vespa at the front. All different colours.

So this afternoon we are having a siesta. Such a great idea.

Has anyone been to Matera? Let me know what you think about the place.

A day to explore

July 11, 2016January 2, 2017 / brisbanefrannie / Leave a comment

We left Alberobella this morning after witnessing the fun run and visited a few nearby villages.

Runners making it in the heat.

A little boy stretches with his dad after the run.

I’m pleased we booked to stay there. Alberobella is a very interesting village but keep in mind that it is touristy. Arrive late in the afternoon when most the visitors are leaving.

We then stopped in Locorotonda which is another very nice village.

When visiting a church we happened upon a Christening. A little girl named Georgia. She was very good but after awhile got grizzly and cried. So Nonna to the rescue. She came forward out of her seat. Squeezed some drops into a dummy and pushed it in the baby’s mouth. Instant quiet. Sedation works!

Baby Georgia being met at the door to the Church. Before sedation

As we drove we got closer the sea. This is the Golf of Taranto the bit between the point and the heel of Italy’s boot.

A cluster of Trulli

A beautiful park in Locorotonda

Everyone seems to have a small garden outside their door

Arriving in Matera was breath taking.

The Sassi of Matera has been used in many films. Including Jesus …..with Mel Gibson

An Italian Treat: Hello Italy

July 10, 2016January 2, 2017 / brisbanefrannie / 8 Comments

If you’ve ever experienced an Italian who fancies himself as Fangio you’ll identify with my words about our taxi driver on arrival in Bari

We docked at 8 and got through customs and got Fangio in a taxi to Avis at the airport. For normal drivers it would be 20 min. For us and our curly haired, spectacle wearing Fangio it was 10 mins. As he drove with one arm out the window he intermittently brought it in to straighten his curls at one time doing 120 kmh in a 70 zone!

Welcome to Italy! Everyone is so friendly , even when things don’t work.

After exploring the city centre and the rather impressive large public buildings of Bari we drove south.

I had booked a table at Grotto Palazzese, a rather special restaurant, built into the cliffs overlooking the sea at Polignano.

We drove along the coast and looked at the Italians setting up their umbrellas and deck chairs on the public beaches. It’s good to see its not all controlled by the big hotels where you have to rent a chair and umbrella. So far these beaches are free. And crowded.

Polignano is a lovely seaside place with high cliffs and just a few places to access the sea. We walked through the old town before arriving at our restaurant, perched high on the cliff top. But looking over the edge at the viewing point we could see the tables set below the level we were at.

There is a dress code for this upmarket place and I had Steve’s long pants in my bag just in case!!!!!. He wore his blue linen shorts and a nice navy shirt. He looked good, so we wondered if he would be rejected😕 or if it was an evening dress code.

So in we went and were greeted at the front door and told to proceed down the 100 steps to the restaurant. When we made it down and stepped out into the space it was magnificent. The water below so clear and blue. We were given a table by the railing and felt great.

As it turns out some very underdressed people were admitted included a lady who looked like she was wearing exercise gear! Tacky

Steve looking very sophisticated!
We proceeded to eat great food and share some wine and toasted our successful swim trek, ie : we both were happy with our swims, we scooped the prizes and were the eldest there by quite a few years but managed to keep up!

I had stuffed zucchini flowers followed by char grilled squid. Steve had scampi followed by a hot smoked salmon that had him licking his lips. We were very bad and had dessert. Ice cream for me and tiramisu for Steve.

A very happy me. 😃🍸 – and Steve’s cute glass of Campari and soda!

Looking straight down from our table

We left feeling pleasantly full and arrived at a piazza to see the final touches being put to the flowers on a church for a wedding that afternoon. I couldn’t resist waiting to watch because if the glorious flowers were anything to go by then it would be a well dressed wedding group. Which would be in contrast to one we’d seen in Bari this morning – which was nice but slightly overdone! Dresses too short, heels too shiney and way too high

We waited and the guests started to arrive by limo and small bus. To paint the picture – it was 4 pm and stinking hot! The ladies were mostly wear long floaty dresses with various degrees of suntan. The men in dark suits working up a glossy sweat. Someone told me it was an English girl marrying an Italian man. And there must have been money somewhere.

Even the cafe staff got in on the act when it was too much for the dads

We saw red, lime , citrus, grey, black, blue and green dresses. Tutti colouri vestiti.

Guests were going into the church and some coming straight back out fanning themselves. Mothers of the 4 flower girls and 4 page boys were placating their small children whilst they tied bows, put flower wreaths on heir now sweaty heads and the little boys had ties done up by perspiring English dads and arms stuffed into men type suits by their equally red faced mums. Poor little kids. I think they may have been sedated, as there was not one complaint or whimper let alone a definite NO! Very well behaved.

Finally the bride arrived in a beautiful, heavily beaded, skin tight gown. Exsquite but oh boy she would have been be so hot. I certainly was and I had a fan!

At this point we too we too hot and headed for Alberobella. This unique Unesco World Heritage Site is like a fairytale village. It has many all white, grey shingled roofed houses called Trulli.

I had booked a little Trulli house for our stay and it was so charming and comfortable I could stay a week. Up a hill away from the Main Street it had a lovely main room , huge bathroom and a kitchen that didn’t get a thought from me even though it was great.

We had already enjoyed a wonderful lunch so didn’t feel hungry. Thirsty, yes because of the heat so we rested awhile, then when it was cooler headed into the little Trulli lined streets. It’s very touristy but the majority had left and was busy with local families as there was a festival on. Children were dressed up in olden day costumes and were recreating scenes from long ago.

There was a town dinner, but we missed seats for that, so after our passeggiata we sat in a cafe (drinking cool white wine and eating grilled vegetable for me and a cheese and meat snack for Steve) in a piazza and watched the locals. I love the Italians. They dress up to parade and greet their friends. They eat gelato and the men gather in groups around the towns many fountains.

Finally made our way home to our little Trulli.

Has anybody else been here? If not you should visit.

Not long till the next Swim Trek

June 19, 2016June 23, 2016 / brisbanefrannie / 6 Comments

To get you in the mood I have included this to tell you how I got into swimming!

Life is going swimmingly!

“You do realise this swim trek is a swift swim?”

That sentence leapt from the email. What have I done I asked myself?

My husband, a keen swimmer was wanting to go on a swim trek holiday. Some people choose walking holidays , some choose to cycle (activities I enjoy) but my husband wanted to swim! “I don’t swim” I said. “You’ll love it!” replied my husband!

I did think it sounded great, puttering around on a boat in the blue waters of Sardinia, enjoying the scenery whilst my husband swam. Then I found out I couldn’t go on the boat unless I was a swimmer! I’d be left at the hotel on a small island all day by myself.

So I decided to take up swimming.

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To start with, I couldn’t swim the length of a 50 metre pool, so I quickly switched to a 25 metre pool and took a few lessons. I’d recently retired so had time to get to the pool each day and swim. Slowly. Up and down.

I was slow. So I added fins. I persisted. I started to enjoy it.

I counted down the days till we left. I checked the website describing the swims we would be doing – 2-3km a day. Each day. Every day for 6 days!

Then we had to email our swim times over 1km. Proudly I entered 32 mins. I was quite chuffed that I could even swim a kilometre. Then that email arrived. A Swift Swim. As opposed to their usual leisurely slow swims – let’s enjoy the scenery type swim. I was the slowest by far. Longer distances for more experienced swimmers.

I replied quickly saying I would wear fins , would improve daily, and know when to get out of the water. They agreed. I’m not sure if I was pleased or not.

We arrived on the beautiful island of La Maddalena and I felt physically ill during the orientation chat, when meeting our fellow swimmers and telling “our swim story”. I was the least experienced swimmer, and despite my husband’s constant encouragement started to wonder about my stupidity at joining the swim.

On the first day I hyperventilated during the orientation 300 metre swim. It was only our beautiful, caring, encouraging guide, Italian Francesco, my fellow swimmers and my husband who kept encouraging me that I did some of the afternoon swim.

Francesco

Then slowly and surely I got in to swim a little after the other swimmers had started. About 3 km after! Then on day two I swam about 2 1/2 km. The next day I jumped in earlier and sure enough covered about 3 1/2 km. And each day it increased and as it did so did my confidence and my enjoyment. The swims were challenging, safe, but most of all fun. The waters were clear and beautiful and I would hate to have missed out.

At the end of the week’s fantastic farewell dinner I was presented with Francesco’s ‘Capo Bianco’ for the most improved swimmer. What an honour! The friends we made on that first trek have remained friends and we have swum together several times, included a crossing of the Strait of Gibraltar – from Spain to Morocco. No I didn’t do that!

Who would have guessed that 3 years later with 2 more swim treks to Sardinia and gorgeous Greece I would become a very keen swimmer. I’ve joined a local squad and though still not very fast and still sometimes using fins, I actually love swimming.

July 2^nd we start our week-long swim trek in Montenegro. I’ll keep you posted on my swim journey. I’ll be sending in a post to this blog. Read along as I swim!

Who said you were too old to take up a new sport?

10 Favourite Villages in Italy

February 21, 2016February 28, 2016 / brisbanefrannie / 5 Comments

I’ve written about France……. Now for Italy. My heart is probably more in Italy. It’s where I feel more at home and speaking a little Italian makes it much easier.

So HOW do I narrow it down to just 10? I might group a few together according to my visits to squeeze a few more in.

My first visit to Italy in 1976 was the year after Steve and I married. It was fairly quick but I remember being struck by the history, the food, the people and the general La Vita Bella.We visited the big places and just a few smaller villages. These days I love the small villages as it gives me a chance to practice my Italian and join in a few activities in the village.

The next few trips followed quickly – I’ve always believed in throwing coins into Trevi fountain. Right hand over left shoulder, make a wish and BOOM! next year back again!.

I’ve been about 10 times now and love it all. Of course it’s good to see the cities first if it’s your first visit to Italy – and I’ll do a another post on the BIG cities in Italy. For the cities, in order, I love Rome, Florence, Venice, Naples, Bologna and Verona.

So narrowing it down to smaller places – in no particular order I suggest these places to you. PLEASE tell me about your favourite village.

Lucca:

I spent 2 weeks here in 2012 staying in a little apartment with this gorgeous view. Its a small walled city, flat to walk around, lots of history, a beautiful amphitheatre, many beautiful churches, music concerts by local hero Puccini, great food and a refinement the locals promote! It’s on a train line (an hour to Florence) and great bus service to all surrounding areas. So what’s not to adore.

Spello:

Spello in Umbria is off the main tourist circuit. And is beautiful. You wind up the hill to get to the little village and from wherever you look out the view is gorgeous. There are about 12 churches, several very good restaurants, winding streets and, if there during Corpus Christi feast, there are 60 flower carpets lining the narrow streets.

It’s also a good place to have a car as you can visit nearby villages such a Montefalco, Bevagna, Spoleto and the bigger Assisi. Accommodation can be small hotels but I prefer an apartment to be able to live like a local.

San Gimignano

This beautiful village is a small walled hill town in Tuscany not far from Siena. It has around 12 medieval towers and beautifully preserved buildings. It’s quite touristy so it can be good to stay outside the town in the beautiful countryside in a farmhouse.

From this area you can travel to nearby Volterra, Siena, Florence, Lucca and lots of little villages with fabulous restaurants.

The Lakes Areas:

Bellagio: on Lake Como

This romantic village is loved by all (therefore a little crowded) but has such charm with its century old buildings, cobbled laneways and being half way up the lake is the perfect spot to explore the whole lake by ferry. I’ bellagio,_lake_como ve also stayed in nearby Varenna and it is smaller quieter and quite charming.

Bardalino : on Lake Garda

This is a flatter village and was home to many fishermen. It is surrounded by vineyards and is quite a resort town. Not quite as romantic as Bellagio but beautiful with lovely walks along the lake, great restaurants, places to swim and colourful little ferries running around the lake. Very relaxing with great shopping.

Bardolino is about an hours bus ride to Verona and a short drive to the many vineyards in the area.

Positano: Glamour by the sea

No visit to the Amalfi Coast is complete without a visit to its jewel, Positano. To get there (without a car which isn’t necessary) you can take the train to Naples, then the Circumvesuviana, a small local train to Sorrento, then a bus which gives an amazing view of the spectacular coastline. Then its a walk down hill towards the water. I’ve stayed in a little apartment overlooking the beach. Each day was spent exploring the coast, tripping around on a boat to Capri to Amalfi, a bus to Pompeii, walking in the lemon groves, a bus up to Ravello and countless lemoncello and gelati!

Lovely Lerici

Lerici is where the Italians holiday – especially those from Milan, so perfect for practicing Italian speaking. It’s in Liguria on the gorgeous Golf dei Poeti and has flown under the radar of international tourists who flock to the Cinque Terre. I’ve stayed in both places and must say I love Lerici – but had the advantage of a week’s stay. If only allowing a few days then probably stay on the Cinque Terre (see next post).

Lerici has a medieval castle overlooking its beautiful bay and 3 kilometer promenade leading to San Terenza another lovely town with a white sandy beach. On the ferry its a lovely day to visit the 5 towns of the Cinque terre, the lovely town of Portovenere and the little island of Palmaria a great place for a swim and lunch away from the crowds.

Cinque Terre: Which of the 5 villages?

The Cinque Terre has had lots of attention – with good reason. The 5 colourful little villages are clinging to the cliff face and look gorgeous from the water. You can explore them by boat or by walking and climbing the clifftop path which connects the villages. I’ve stayed in the largest of the villages – Monterrosso – which has an old town and a new town and is easy to get to by train. My favourite village is probably Vernazza with its cute little coloured houses. If staying in Vernazza try and get by the water. Its crowded and you need to be looking at the water.

Taormina:

An ancient town high on a hill looking towards the sea on one side and Mt Etna on the other, Taormina is romantic , sophisticated and a great people watching place. I’ve been twice and loved it both times. With its Saracen castle and amazing Greek amphitheatre, which hosted a children ballet show the day we were there, Taormina is a great stop for few days. The passegiata along the main Corso is a must, the Sicilian tile shops, the park with sculptures overlooking the sea, the gelati, the steep climb up to the next town (Castelmola), the funicular ride down to the beach, the stunning grilled fish. A great place to stay in Sicily (though I loved Ortiga, Noto and Ragusa as well!)

Urbino to Mercatello: Finding Le Marche

My first language school was in Urbino. I arrived on my own and stayed a few steps from the little piazza. I had a week alone in a lovely little Italian house while I attended language school and made some lovely friends in the little village with its mini La Scala teatro. The following week was in the even smaller Mercatello where friends own a house . Very old, no bakery shop, no English spoken but a rustic charm.

Good base for trips to San Marino, Arrezo, and Urbania with its amazing church and art.

Oh dear. I’m up to 10!

I must mention:

San Remo – the city of flowers in Ligura

Cortona (who hasn’t read Frances Mayes’ Under the Tuscan Sun….)

La Maddelena in Sardinia – our first swim trek week spent here in its crystal waters.

Pisa: Got to climb that leaning tower.

I could go on but that would detract from my top 10!

Enjoy and Please tell me in the comments where you love to visit in Italy.💕

The 3 islands swim

July 3, 2013May 8, 2016 / brisbanefrannie / Leave a comment

Biggest swim today -for me!

We motored off on Marco’s boat and arrived at the first island, admired the “pink” beach then moved a little down the coast and off we went.

The first swim was 5 km and I started a little behind the first group, swam the channel, had a little break then finished with the group at the most gorgeous bay – Santa Maria. I must have swum about 3.5 km . I can hardly believe it. A week ago the furthest I had ever swum was 1km.

We stopped for lunch and rest time and swam a little in the crystal waters then set off at 2.30 for the next 2km along the coast to the lighthouse. I did more than half – so all up around 4. 5km!

There I go

Lunch was a gorgeous pasta dish with salad. Francesco with his bandana prepares a pretty good lunch.

Francesco making lunch

The ride back was just a little rough as the wind has come up a little.

Now in the hotel having a coffee followed by a Aperol Spritz. Dinner out with the group tonight. They are such a fun group. All starting to bond.

Tony, Kerrie, Chicca, Steve, Isabelle, Liz and Peter

Swim trek Day 3

July 3, 2013June 29, 2016 / brisbanefrannie / Leave a comment

Group at rest

An early morning start. 6 a.m. wake up, dress, down to breakfast and ready to go by 7. We had to beat the wind for an inter-island swim.

We headed down the sea to the right of the hotel and the swim was across the sea to Spargi Island. I decided not to do the channel cross. It was a 4 km swim all up. A 2km across the channel and then another 2km to the bay we were going to. It’s interesting travelling with Francesco in the rubber duckie. He gives me lots of insight into the swimming styles, points a out areas of interest and its good fun.

The Yellow Caps are off to Spargi!

The yellow cap girls, Isabella and Liz did a great job, keeping a perfect line across the channel. The orange group with Steve did a little detour so ended up getting caught by the pink group headed by Clare from Canada, a real ball of muscle. I have taken to calling her Action Girl.

I joined them for the swim along the coast, around the headland and into the bay where we were having morning tea.

After the break we headed off for the top of the hill, a walk though stony prickly bushes to the top where the bunkers from WW2 still exist. It was a half hour climb up then some sight-seeing and a half hour back. So quite energetic.

Th group on Spargi hilltop

our guides decided the wind was too strong so we headed back across the channel to La Maddalena where we moored for lunch.

Only problem. – Glenn had to drive the rubber duckie back to the hotel to get the rice, and on the way back the engine failed so Francesco – who was preparing our lunch had to take off to rescue him. So Marco the big boat driver took over. It provided us with a few laughs as we lounged on the deck of the boat. This is the life!

our lunch beach

We got to laze around or swim in the crystal waters. Finally they arrived and we enjoyed a lovely lunch of rice salad full of lots of goodies like olives, tomatoes, capers, artichokes, mushrooms and soaked up with bread. Yumm

lunch before the second swim

We then had to wait the required time before beginning the afternoon swim. Off set the yellow group of Isabella and Liz and they decided to explore each of the bays and coves and really enjoy the swim. The orange group, followed by the competitive pink group, were soon hot on their heels – they had cut some of the explorations of the bays and cut across them. Francesco just shrugged his shoulders and said” they are missing out on the best scenery”

Once again I hopped in half way through the 2.6 swim and really enjoyed the last 1.3 km. I’m getting a little used to it now and feeling stronger.

We returned to the hotel for showers and a wrap-up analysis of our stroke. Quite a funny but informative critique of our swimming style taken with an underwater camera. Francesco was great and handed out lots of hints.

Isabella in the yellow group has the best style but needs more strength to go fast. He said I had a great style for only 4 months swimming and gave me a few hints on how to improve.I’m feeling very pleased with myself and so encouraged.

We did this over a few shared Prosecos – so all was good. We watched Australia win the stage of the Tour team time trials and are now in the room catching up before dinner.

Tonight the whole group are going into town to La Perla Blu for dinner.Francesco has organised it and no doubt will wear his”night time” hat a rather cute beany style skull cap. He’s quite a gorgeous character.

So far swim trek is going well. Not so nervous now!!!!! And the group are so encouraging.

Arriving at La Maddelena

July 2, 2013May 8, 2016 / brisbanefrannie / Leave a comment

The fun has begun . Swim trek has started.

Our hotel is good. Just by the sea about a Km out of the town . View from the room, large verandah, comfy bed. Not luxurious but good for week’s stay. Definitely worth asking for a sea view.

View from the hotel

Beautiful bay views

Our terrace

We met the group last night and had a dinner together with our guides Francesco and Glenn. Let me describe.
Three couples from Sydney. One couple from London. All friends. Turns out there are multi coincidences. They are ex-water polo players (with their wives) from Sydney Uni and although in their 50’s know our son Rob from Syd Uni water polo. Then turns out one of the ladies knows my sister Catherine as her children went to Catherine’s school ! Liz also knows my niece Helen because they swim together at Bronte swim club where they live!
So many coincidences from the Sydney crew.
The others are Emily – 30’s from UK; Clare – 30’s from Canada, Isabella – 30’s a Swiss doctor. All 3 have done swim treks before. In fact there are 3 doctors, a nurse and a radiographer, so medically we are fine.
Then there are 3 brothers one from Paris,one from London and last from California – they are half French and range from 30-40. All married, but on a brothers bonding week. This is there 3rd swim trek. Last swimmer is the class clown Chris from London. Very funny, very pale and now quite red from sunburn .

We had our first group meeting and had to introduce ourselves and say a little about our swimming. Well I didn’t have much to say except I’ve only been swimming for 4 month! And that I’m so nervous I could vomit!

Everyone seemed lovely and encouraging especially Francesco our lovely Italian guide. He is from Rome and seems to be the loveliest guy.

The next morning we met down at the little beach near the hotel. The TEST!
We started with a 300m test swim, to group us. I got a yellow hat! Then breakfast and we were given our hats. I’m (naturally) in the slowest group with Isabella and Liz. So off we went for our 1.7 km swim around the beautiful bays to our picnic spot – an unused convent only reached by swimming or by boat. Had lunch and rested and wandered around then at 2.30 we set off for a 4 km swim. I cleverly stayed on the rubber duckie with Francesco and dropped in half way through the swim. We finished at a jetty then had to dress and walk 2-3 km back to our hotel. Talk about tired! And it’s only day 1!

Poor Chris our one Englishman -turns out he is a very good swimmer but so pale he burns easily . He has burn marks on various parts of his pale skin.

Small local beach for a little training!

When we finally got back to the hotel we had to swim 4 short laps by ourselves to be videotaped for analysis of our stroke! More swimming!

We cleaned up had an hour off then walked a km to our restaurant for dinner.
To bed by 10.30 and a Sunday sleep.

Tomorrow start at 7 am for a crossing from island to island.

Sicily to Sardinia

June 29, 2013April 4, 2017 / brisbanefrannie / Leave a comment

Last night in lovely Taormina. Went to a beautiful restaurant I had been to with Catherine and Margaret 5 years ago. Still lovely food. Probably one of the best meals we’ve had these holidays.

Had our passeggiata along the Corso and returned to pack and be prepared for the 6 am wake up call. The hotel offered to bring our breakfast to the room so we wouldn’t miss out. They are so kind here at Villa Schuler.

All went according to plan and we were waving good bye to pretty Taormina by 7 am. These villages are probably at their best this early in the morning before the crowds arrive. It’s cool, peaceful and inviting.

Goodbye Etna

We didn’t get lost and made the airport by 8.15 for a 9.30 flight and it took nearly all that time to check in and get through customs! Then we were called by name for our flight. The reason for that was that there were about 20 people on the flight. We had the plane to ourselves ! It took about an hour flying over Sicily and the crystal waters of the Medi to reach Sardinia and land at Olbia airport. It’s a very nice airport and shows that “wealthy” tourists come to play in Sardinia. We caught the bus to Palau and then a short ferry ride across to La Maddalena – a small island surrounded by crystal waters. Arrived around 1.30 and made our way about 1km from the port to our hotel, Miralonga .

view from the hotel

We are now settled in our hotel near the water for 7 nights, so we were able to unpack.
The weather is just beautiful – not as hot as it was, thankfully .

I’m surprised that our little island has quite a town centre and lots of boats. It’s just a short ferry ride from the coastal tip of Sardinia. The hotel is very comfortable with a nice terrace, doors that open wide and lots of places to put things! Fills a lot of my criteria for a good hotel. Had a walk throughout the village last night and its the usual lively scene in the piazza. The little boys in particular dominate with their shrill voices and “own the world” attitude.

Village of La Maddalena

Enjoyed dinner at Sottovento a little restaurant recommended by our taxi driver. Very good but I tell you eating out every night! Lovely but after a while you’re not sure what you feel like. NOT complaining!

Saturday Morning:

We’ve had time to settle in before all the other swimmers arrive. Our first meeting is this afternoon so it will be interesting to meet the group we’ll be spending the week with. I’m sure there will be a few alpha males there all trying to outdo each other in the swims each day. I just hope there is another 60+ slow female to make me feel good about myself. My face is still swollen from the jellyfish sting! Did I mention that? It happened at Taormina when we went down to the beach.

I was swimming merrily along thinking the people in their hired deck chairs would be mightily impressed by this lady swimming out so far, when suddenly I was hit on the right cheek (of my face) by an incredible sting. Went on my arm as well but it was the face that hurt. Managed to swim back to shore and finally Steve came back from his longer swim to find me red and swollen. I got onto the rocky beach when the lifeguard / deck chair hire man came to see if I was alright. He told me to rub it with sea water to make sure the sting was out. But that felt incredible! Then he disappeared to his hut and came back with a box that turned out to be bicarbonate soda. He said no fresh water, not ice. Rub with this. He poured it all over my face and I rubbed. It felt like sand paper! Steve the lifesaver was impressed (not) with the italian version of dealing with stingers!
We got back to the hotel and I saw the damage. Not a good look!

Now two days later its a little swollen, and has red bumps , blisters I guess, on the area of the sting. Hope it goes soon. But I have to say, it’s made me just a little nervous about swimming in the sea from tomorrow. If it happens again – I’m out! Steve said it’s happened once so law of averages says it won’t happen again! Mathematician!

We are having a quite day at the hotel, after a lovely breakfast on the terrace. We have been trying to guess if any of the other guests are some of the swimmers! Fun game trying to pick the swimmers. Mind you , they wouldn’t pick me for one I’m sure.

Spied Francesco, our guide for the swims working with a map to plan the route of the twice daily swims.

Oh Boy , let the fun begin!

View from our hotel room

Ferry boat we arrived on passes our hotel

Nearby there is a little beach!

frans travel tales

come along with me

Italy