Coming back to Havana was exciting. We now knew more about Cuba.
First up a ride in a pink Cadillac
More to come when internet is good
Hola from Havana.
Top Ten
Che Day
Today it was all about Ernesto Guevara. Or Che as he has become.
Our hotel last night was great and we had a lovely breakfast in the dining room. A smooth Alex arrived and gave is the run down on today’s activities.
We were to drive to Santa Clara about an hour away, but before that we visited the town plaza. Around a central garden stand some very grand colonial buildings. They are painted in different pastel colours and have colanades running along them which is handy in the hot sun.
We went into the arts co operative and loved the various arts and crafts. So bright and happy. Cuba certainly is colourful.
Then we tried to climb the building on the edge of the square with a high tower and a look out. Only problem no one arrived at 10 am to open up!
Next up was the theatre. It’s a really lovely building built by a wealthy sugar farmer back in the 1890’s. It’s still used for performance each weekend and us open to view for $5.
Unfortunately it’s been subject to the same decay that so buildings have been in Cuba. There hasn’t been the money to pay for restoration. So even though the whole square is Unesco listed they are in bad condition.
Last stop was the church. Very plain and in need of paint.
Paint can be hard to get apparently. Alex has bought an apartment with his wife and is trying to do it up. He can’t find any paint. He’s got the money but there just aren’t the supplies readily available.
Victor arrived with the bus and we got on for the hour long ride to the Che Guevara memorial. During the hour we watched a documentary on his life. He was certainly charismatic and driven and in the minds of the Cuban people he would be forever young.
In my opinion he seemed attracted not just by the cause and helping people overcome dictators but driven by the adventure.
We visited the museum and the memorial and it was quite moving.
Back in the bus we stopped next for lunch at a hotel. Quite attractive with a large empty pool.
Then it was across the mountains through sugar country to Trinidad.
The forms of transportation are varied – not many private cars, just taxis , tour bus, bikes and horse and cart.
This tower is not a church. It’s a tower that was used for watching slaves.
Until next time. Leave a comment!
sorry if the photos haven’t loaded. V slow internet.
Vinales to Bay of Pigs
Vinales is a lovely quiet little town where the pace is slow, the people friendly and the food surprisingly good. We were told the food in Cuba was plain and rather ordinary and while it’s not Michelin standard so far it’s been fine.
Lots of rice yes! Last night we went to an eco restaurant on a hill on the outskirts of Vinales. All the food prepared for us was grown or raised on the farm.
We walked in the gardens – vegetable garden beds bursting with healthy plants and looked up at the house with breezy verandas.
The house faced the hills and the sun was just starting to set. It was quite beautiful.
The food started with a plantains and taro crisps & delicious vegetable soup then out came plates of roasted vegetable, chicken thighs, roast pork and shredded beef. Much more than we could eat!
We finished with creme brûlée and mint tea. No wine but we had a pina colada type drink with special herbs in it.
Today we left early, 8am and we knew it was going to be a long day as Alex planned a movie for us on the bus and Victor our driver was wearing a tie. Serious driving today.
We headed back in the direction of Havana and then in the direction of Giron and The Bay of Pigs. To give us some background Alex told us some history of the political life in Cuba including their heroes Fidel Castro, Che Guevara and what led up to the 3 day Bay of Pigs invasion by the Americans in 1961.
For a small country this is a big story. It is strategically placed only 90 miles from Miami and was wanted by Spain, America and Russia. Fidel led the revolution through the Baptista years. The country was crawling with Mafia types, communists and became a socialist country under Castro.
Then there was the ‘special period !’ In the 90’s when life for the Cubans became hard. It was anything but special. They were hard times. People were starving. Alex who is 34 said he remembers it well as there was so little food.
We arrived at the Bay of Pigs and had a swim. It was warm & tropical and lovely after sitting in the bus for several hours.
Next stop was the museum in Giron (passing Australia on the way)
to see the Cuban account of the Bay of Pigs invasion. Such a bad period of time.
We watched a short film and wondered what the American tourists would think.
There was a photo of JFKennedy who inherited the Cuba problem and didn’t seem keen to invade.
The Cubans are very pleased it wasn’t Trump in charge then!
We arrived at Cienfuegos and visited the former Palace. This small city is by the sea and in its former glory would have been lovely. The buildings are colonial style but many are in a state of disrepair.
We enjoyed our pina colada on the roof terrace before checking into the lovely old Union Hotel.
Tomorrow is Che day. All about that romantic political figure Che Guevara.
Wandering in Vinales
We’re staying in a casa particular. A house owned by a local. We are in a little row of rooms at the back of Maria and her husband very modest house.
It’s a way the locals can make a little money. They set up a little bnb type of thing. Sometimes in their house or as in this case behind it. The owners pay the Government about 100CUC a month and can rent it for around 20-40CUC a night.
So the better ones would rent well.
Vinales is a small town in the Tobacco growing area a few hours from Havana. It’s in a Valley with Jurassic Park style mountains around. It’s popular with young people ( as Cuba is generally) who travel and who like to climb.
Our hosts gave us breakfast on their terrace and were so accommodating. Fruit, omelette & toast.
Then we set off to the Main Street with Alex to meet our local guide.Pero turned out to be a lovely, earnest former English teacher. We set out down one of the side street with Pero stopping every few minutes to point out the fruit trees or the plants growing in the gardens. Pero loves all things botanical.
We continued down the path passing colourful houses , oxen carts and locals riding horses.
We walked along the shaded country road until we reached the tobacco farm.
Pero explained the growing system, the type of leaves , the government control 90% of the crop goes to the Gov for a fairly low price. The farmer keeps the rest which he can the use to produce his own cigars but he can’t label them. So he can’t make too much money no matter how hard he works.
We heard about the drying, stripping, bundling and rolling. We moved into the barn to see leave hanging- for a year.
then into the house to meet Clara
and her husband who rolled us a cigar. What fun.
Then we were taught how to inhale and away we went.
I enjoyed the process as you can see here!
Now I’m recovering before our salsa class this afternoon.
After Salsa it was dinner at an eco restaurant. More later.
Internet hard!
Farewell NOLA. Hello Cuba
I find a travel day a mixture of boredom and frustration. Today it’s a bit of both.
It’s been smooth. Out of NOLA very early and it all went well. Into the lounge again so that was very welcome.
Then the 1hr flight to Cancun to transit to Havana. We arrived at terminal one, collected our bags then decided to not wait the 1/2 for a free bus to get us to terminal 2. We got a taxi at a $20 rip off cost! He told us we needed terminal 4! We arrived went inside and realised we were at the wrong terminal !
Once again we went out and I’m sure his ‘brother’ was waiting to get us again for another $20! This time we waited for the free shuttle.
So here we sit waiting for our Interjet flight to Havana. Let’s hope it’s smooth and our bags arrive!
Later……..
Our flight was delayed by about 1.5 Hr so we sat around then almost missed getting to the gate. A lovely young Australian guy came looking for us to tell us it was boarding – the board did not indicate boarding had started. It still said ‘delayed!’
Once on board it was a smooth 1 hr flight to Havana. The pilots here all take off in a hurry and land quickly with a bump ( yes there was clapping by appreciative flyers). But we and the luggage made it.
Then a little frustrating moment as our pick up contact from Peregrine tours wasn’t there. No board with our name in it! We waited and waited till s guy from another company said it might be better to take s taxi. So I had to line up to get money out from the atm.
There are two currencies here. The CUC which is more commonly used in tourism and the notes have pictures of buildings and monuments. And the CUP pesos which has pictures of people and is used by the locals particularly in markets and little shops. The trick is to tell the difference!
We took a taxi which took about 30 mins and cost 30 CUC.
We arrived at a large hotel. The Riveria by the water on the Malecon. It was built back in the late 1940’s by a Spanish company. It’s tired looking with large spaces, grand looking staircases, murals on the walls and a damp smell in the corridors and a wet concrete smell in the bedrooms. It adds a certain charm! Of a communist nature.
Our guide Alex is just lovely. Dark and handsome with a twinkle in his eye he will guide us around Cuba for the next 8 days.
He explained what would happen over the next few days whilst we caught up with John & Margaret Brannock and enjoyed our welcome drink.
Then we went off to withdraw some more CUC for our travels and into a restaurant just near the hotel.
We’d heard the food was pretty plain and not so good but I enjoyed my chicken with Cilantro sauce. We all had beer and enjoyed chatting to Alex about life in Havana.
Steve’s sister Marg arrives later tonight and we have an 8.30 start tomorrow.
On the way back to our hotel we posed in front of our first Havana car.
Today we have ‘Gone with the Wind’
Plantations are big here – both in size and reputation. We decided on a Plantation tour and not an alligator tour.
But which house do we visit? I read reviews and decided on Houmas House or the ‘Sugar House’ because it has a big reputation as a great example of a grand home.
I didn’t want to visit one with the slavery story. That is too sad.
We weren’t disappointed. Houmas House is grand and Southern style and the gardens were amazing.
We had an hour bus ride out along the swampy flat land in the direction of Baton Rouge. The driver was a super speedy guy – definitely the stunt driver from the movie Speed!
Arriving at the house was underwhelming at first as there is now an aluminium plant nearby with chimney stacks and smoke!
But pulling into the drive was like stepping back in time. All the attendants wear period costumes and the grounds are heavenly.
There were many sculptures in the garden both playful and decorative. So much money!
We heard the story of the building of the plantation. It’s named after the local Indian tribe. It was mainly a sugar plantation with 1,000 slaves working there. It made a fortune for its owner. It sold after the civil war for $1.5 million. That’s a lot of money for back then.
Our guide Susan took us through the house and had lots of stories. It’s a pity she spoke so fast ! Hard to follow her.
The present owner lives there in two rooms and is up and out each morning before the house opens. He’s not married but loves his dogs. Apart from close friends people don’t know who the owner of the house is or what he looks like.
Another heart thumping trip back to NOLA for a short rest before we went off to dinner. Now that’s a whole other story.
Barcelona. A favourite
Today we disembarked at Barcelona – this beautiful city that was home to Rob for 5 seasons of waterpolo.
It’s lovely to be back. The buildings are amazing. The weather fantastic and the food. Yum.
So far we haven’t done too much. The children chased the pidgeons in Placa De Catalunya whilst we waited to get into our hotel.
Then lunch in a nearby tapas bar before a walk to my favourite food markets.
Now we’re at the Hotel Lleo a rather nice modern hotel chosen by Berti. Great wifi! And a pool for the kids.
Tonight a vegetarian tapas bar!
Barcelona I ❤️you. Despite there being warnings to stay away from La Rambla tonight as there is another protest over the proposed Catalan separation.
Tomorrow la Sagrada.
Rome I ❤️you. A day in Rome
We arrived at 10.30 and made the trip via train to Termini. It’s fast and efficient and costs about 12e each. Then a taxi to our hotel the Hotel Navona Via Dei Sediari. It’s a pleasant surprise.
The room wasn’t ready so we left our bags and headed off. Piazza Navona was out first stop. How beautiful it is there with its playful fountains and people posing for photos. The weather is spectacular.
Then it was to Via Coronari a favourite street of art , jewellery and glass shops before a siren sounded and people started gathering in a little Piazza. Smoke was streaming out of an upstairs window and people were pointing and exclaiming and a fire engine made its way along the narrow cobblestone Via. We stayed and watched the action. Police – the Carabinari arrived , two fire trucks and an ambulance.
Then the crowd stood as one and smoked and chatted whilst waiting for some action. It took on a community feeling. But taking far too long. So we headed to cafe de Theatro.
This little cafe sits in a lovely little Piazza and was buzzing. The waiter considered his job a performance so entertained the customers- to the amusement of some but definitely not all.
The fire 🔥 spectacle had finished so it was safe to continue walking.
What I love about wandering in Rome is that around every corner sits a surprise so wonderful it takes your breath away.
We rounded a corner and looked towards the river and there was Castello St Angelo. Such a beauty sitting with its history so imposing.I also love Paris but Rome has a different effect on me. It’s more casual about its place in history. It’s there for all to enjoy. Paris is more formal – very beautiful but more controlled. Rome and its people want you involved in having fun.
We had to return to possibly my favourite place – the Pantheon. I love the feeling it gives me.
So we walked and observed the history and the people having fun. The business men looking impossibly glamorous with one hand in a pocket the other nursing a cigarette. With their navy suits and their tan shoes and such well fitting trousers!The women wear either ballet flats ( I bought a red pair) or heels as they manoeuvre the cobblestones with confidence. Also the scarf tied casually at the neck sets off any outfit.
It’s a pity the hordes of tourists get in the way of this street fashion catwalk.
Naturally we had a gelato. Apart from the tourists the locals also enjoy a gelato in the afternoon. We bought ours at that cathedral of gelato, Giotto – where the act of buying is a theatre.
Shopping is another delight in Rome. There are the usual chain stores and high end shops but the smaller boutiques are fabulous. I bought some beautiful ballet flats, red, pointed toe tiny heel (they came in all colours and either v. flat or tiny heel)By now the crowds were out, the armed guards standing on most street corners and the Aperol Spritz drinkers taking up key positions in the sidewalk bars. We joined them at Piazza Popolo. Such a great way to people watch. .
Back to our room which turned into an apartment – lovely but turning on lights is like organising a Vivid Festival!
Dinner was gorgeous. Baked fish served by Mr Rome. A young handsome man who in the olden days would have been a gladiator!
I enjoyed a baked fish with potatoes sliced so fine you could see through them. A Sicilian dish. Steve had Veal lemoni a Roman tradition.A quiet walk back to our apartment where a tribe of young girls were yahooing in our hotel courtyard and clomping up and down the staircase. Rome in all its glory!
We have the morning to wander before heading for the cruise ship in Civitavecchio.
Visit to Szechenyi Spa followed by the House of Terror
Another day another Spa. In Budapest this can be true. We decided to go early to avoid the big crowds. Hmmmmm
This time we chose Szechenyi Spa in City Park. Another great park. This one equally as large and lovely as Margaret Island Park. . We arrived on the bus no 105 at a huge square or Piazza with amazing statues.
We entered the park and passed a pool where the FINA ynchronised wimming was taking place. We could tell by the loud music echoing across the park. Then a castle. A large one. So fairytale like, I was entranced. It was Vajdahonyad Castle built in 1896. So romantic. It overlooks what is usually an ice skating rink in winter but now home the synchronised swimming!
We kept walking along paths past beautiful fields with large trees, people sunbaking, children playing, dogs and their owners romping , tennis courts, skate board park, a zoo and finally the Spa. It is amazing. It looks like a castle! It’s larger than Gellert Spa on the Buda side. It was built in 1909 in the modern renaissance style. We stood in line for the only ticket office open. I must say this is something that could improve in Budapest! The ticket lines can be long and slow. So try and book whatever you can on-line.
This is the entrance to the Spa
But once inside it was well organised. You buy your ticket which can be either a locker, or for more money, a cabin. We just got lockers. You don’t really need a cabin to change in. Once again we went off to the male / female change rooms and left our gear in lockers. This time I kept more things with me. Hat, sunnies, cream, towel, swim cap, a little money and my phone for photos.
Here is a list of the pools you can visit. Some are indoor, some outdoor. There are heaps of sun lounges if you can manage to get one as well as chairs, a cafe and a constant parade of people from every corner of the world. All traipsing about from pool to pool and some getting burnt! It was hot.
We started in the outdoor 30% pool and then the lap pool which was 26%.
Then we moved inside and the pools went on from one room to the next. On and on. We tried the 40 degree pool. Sizzling hot! Then into the 20 deg pool. Chillingly refreshing. There are foot baths before entering each pool and lots of saunas and showers you are encouraged to use. It’s such an interesting place.
I did not get into this one. Way too many people for me!
I found the aqua class, which is included in the price and I was encouraged to get in by Christina, a local lady who was just delightful. So there I was doing Aqua with the locals. My Aqua girls at home will be impressed! Christina said she decided to holiday at home this summer and was at the pool most days doing 3 Aqua classes, swimming 2 km, having a massage and sunbathing. Sounds good to me.
Christina my new friend is on the left in blue.
We had secured a shady spot with a sun lounge and could see the big screen they had up to show the FINA World Cup acitivities. There was the synchronised swimming! Followed by the women’s waterpolo. By now we were in the swing of it and were enjoying ourselves very much. Not quite the beach but pretty good.
View from my sun lounge.
We had some lunch and finally decided enough. It was hot. So back through the labyrinth of corridors to our change rooms. Not sure how the men handle the change rooms but the women show a distinct range of behaviours. The older women, probably local and the Japanese / Chinese are all walking around in the shower area sans swimmers. Others like the British and American are not quite so … bare.
So, freshened up we headed off to walk the rest of the park and down Boulevard Andressy to the House of Terror. Steve had tried to go the other day but the queue was too long. Today very little queue outside so we joined it. As people came out the line was admitted. Inside there was a queue as well – to a single open ticket desk. And the man from the door intermittently yelled move on move on. If only we could!
Finally in we went. It had spooky music playing to get you in the mood for the story of Hungary under occupation. First by the Nazi Germans then the Soviets. These poor people endured so much. Communism was a blight they endured after the war , during the Revolution in the 1950’s until finally the Soviest left in 1991.
NO Photos allowed!
It was an unusual display with the unfriendliest guards I have encountered . At one point we were held in a room with about 8 others and told not to move! We stood there and waited. He wouldn’t answer questions about why we were there. Until finally we were ushered along a ramp into lift …….that moved down slowly enough for the little movie in the lift to tell us how the objectors to communism were hanged. It was quite scary.
Finally out of the House of Terror and back to our apartment. I am very pleased not to have lived through that time.
Dinner tonight was at Bock Bistro. I can definitely recommend it to anyone visiting Budapest. It was great. And no more than 7 mins from our apartment. Thank you Trip Advisor.
Had to have the local Chicken Goulash. Delicious.
And so another day in beautiful Budapest.
Only one day left.
Tonight we heard from Rob’s friend Pietro. He played with Rob at the Beijing Olympics. He now lives and plays in Italy! He has tickets for tomorrow night’s sold out game – Italy vs Aus! Thank you Pietro. I’m so pleased we had a very special dinner tonight. Tomorrow night it’s waterpolo!
Pools, Parks and Parliament
Today we went for the three P’s for a perfect day. Pool, Park, Parliament.
We started with the Pool. It’s been a while since Rob played waterpolo so we hardly know a person in the Australian team. But we decided to go and support them and relive some memories. We were thrilled to see Locky Hollis in the team. For those who know Rob you might remember the ‘Support Rob and Locky campaign’ when they were facing their cancer treatment. Today Locky scored 3 goals and looked terrific. Australia are playing in the World Cup and faced France today. This was a good one to see as they won. 11-10. Not so good against Hungary two days ago.
This took us onto Margaret Island which we wanted to see. It’s an island that sits in the middle of the Danube between Buda and Pest. And it’s lovely. I’m so impressed with this city. After the waterpolo we toured the island in a little covered bicycle. These and assorted other bicycles, peddle cars, electric cars and mini trains can be hired from about $10 per half hour.
I did do some peddling!
The park has wonderful musical fountains , cycle paths, a rose garden, a Japanese garden, several swimming pools, a small children zoo with animals found in Hungary, a church, several restaurants and lots of shaded areas to walk or just rest. I loved it.
The musical fountain. So great to sit and watch.
Steve would have rented one of these if he’d seen it first.
After exploring the park we headed back over the bridge for lunch (Goulash soup for Steve and tuna salad for me with two beers and a glass of Rose – about $40. ) and a visit to Parliament (just under $A50). This building is amazing. They aren’t afraid of spending money to finance big buildings. We couldn’t get onto a tour until 5.15 so went wandering and returned later. If coming here, I suggest you jump online and book your tour ahead.
The sculptures I have mentioned before and I loved this one of Imre Nagy, a former Prime Minister, standing on a sculptured bridge gazing back towards Parliament. I just had to get alongside him and enjoy the view.
We wandered further and found some great spurting water features with children running through screaming with laughter. I wanted to run with them !
We returned later for the tour and it’s amazing inside the Parliament as well as outside.
Main Staircase. There are 196 rooms!
The Assembly where the Parliament meets.
This building was built after a competition for the architect with Imre Steindl the winner. It was started in 1885 and completed in 1904. It was damaged in the war but repaired and rebuilt. It’s stunning. The same architect also designed the Opera House which we visited yesterday.
From Parliament we went to Vaci Street known as the shopping Street. Like many cities now, they have all the usual chain stores. From Dior to Mango, Ecco shoes to H&M. Th world is getting smaller even in shopping terms.
So we retreated to a people watching bar and ending up chatting to a New Zealander. He was an interesting man who had just been to his son’s wedding in Prague. His wife, a NZ politician, had returned home and he was continuing to holiday!
We had booked a river cruise at 9.30 so after our pre-dinner drinks we had quick street food from some vans in the square nearby and made our way to the boat.
I had read the Legenda boats offered an hours trip including a drink for $45 a couple. I booked online and it proved to be a good idea. We got seats on the open air , top deck and it was great. There are cruises offering dinner but this would be a distraction to the sights. Budapest by night is magical.
Parliament by night.
The Palace by night
The Chain Bridge
So ended another great day in Budapest.
frans travel tales 