Porto to Calvi. Sunday 7 th

Now the swim trek has finished we are enjoying our time in Corsica..

It’s spectacular. If you watched the first few days of the Tour you would have seen it then. The road we are travelling is so winding and narrow. Very slow going but so beautiful. We went on a 3 hour boat trip up the coast to the Scandola National Park. It was lovely on the boat just cruising along. Saw some spectacular rock formations, assorted bird life and fish. Had a swim at Giralato where we stopped for half an hour.

gorgeous scenery


Back to Porto and then back in the car for a drive along the winding coast road to Calvi.
It was very warm and Steve’s school friend now living in London (with a holiday house in Algajola near here) told us about visiting the Fango River for a swim. We had to scramble over rocks but getting in was a joy. All bubbly and a little like a spa.

Enjoying the free spa in the
Fango River


We dried off and continued to Calvi which is a port attracting the most incredible leisure boats. We sat in the late afternoon drinking cocktails, admiring the super yachts (and sometimes laughing at the antics of the owners). Boy! there is some money wrapped up in these big babies.

Steve’s favourite yacht . Classy!

Walking further along the port, music from the “party” yacht attracted our attention. It was a party for Diesel and all the beautiful young things were boarding for a good time. Great fun watching them wobbling along on super heels to party central.

Sat at another bar and some of the owners of the super yachts came in and air kissed everyone in sight. Not us – we are invisible tourists! They are a type. All tanned – thin, brown, wrinkled, fair haired women; and fat, longish haired, long sleeved linen shirts with the sleeves rolled back, sunglasses perched on head top men. I love looking at them!

A Calvi style welcome for the Tour de France.
Note the bikes used are real!

Dinner was lovely – at a little place back from the glamour port. But it was attracting quite a young crowd so not sure about that! I had a great grilled sea bass and Steve had lamb.

Walked back to our hotel and were walking against the stream of young people heading to the bars along the waterfront. Made us feel just a little old.

Few observations:
– the latest for girls out on the town is short shorts and ankle boots – preferably with studs.
– White waffle bath towels
– Crazy drivers
– French not quite as warm and friendly as the Italians

Bonafacio to Porto

Had a great nights sleep and nice breakfast (for 15 euros – why we have to pay in France I don’t know)
Then a taxi to the airport to pick up our hire car and away we went.
Oh boy , what dramatic scenery along the way. Winding roads, sheer cliffs, breath taking views. We really enjoyed the travel and hopefully Steve enjoyed the driving! He’s having a few beers now to recover.
We had morning tea at Propriano, a lovely little very French boating village, and lunch at the much larger Ajaccio which reminded us a little of Nice. Lots of boats, shops, cafes and gelato.

Propriano 

We moved on through the coastal route to Porto and it was so dramatic climbing hills and dropping down to the coastal towns. Some really lovely sandy beaches. Corsica is proving to be a well kept secret. It’s really lovely.

We arrived in Porto at 4.30 and our hotel is well located on the little harbour. We booked a boat tour tomorrow to explore the coast by sea and will head up to Girolata where there is a National Park and the Sandola Gulf. Hope we can get a little swim in. I am missing our time on the boat and even miss the swims!

Porto – mountains meet the sea

Just completed a survey from Swim trek. All good comments from us!

Saw the results of the Lions Wallaby game. Dismal result and Robbie Deans could be out of a job !

Had a beautiful dinner at La Mer -right on the front of the harbour with the most beautiful view. Steve had duck and I had just had the first meat meal since I left. Pork ! And very nice it was too.

Goodbye Sardinia

Last day in Sardinia started with a 1km swim at 7am,  which I did with the diehard swimmers out the front of the hotel with Francesco in the front (with his little tiny yellow boat) and Gleno in the back. No stingers was a bonus. 
Then back to the hotel – breakfast all together and then the goodbyes started. It was such a great week and so many really nice people. 

Francesco and his little yellow boat

My last swim

Memories include: meeting all the swimmers first night and discovering so many coincidences; finding I could manage to swim at least half and more of the distances; making new friends; laughing hysterically at Chris G’s ballad of Gleno – a very funny poem which started with Glen our guide but then moved on to mention everybody. This was backed up with boisterous singing led by Chris, our French American party boy. Oh how cute is he! Then there were the crystal waters, great lunches, interesting walks, funny beer sessions after the swims ( Francesco couldn’t get over the number of beers the group could go through) lovely dinners out with the group, and of course our lovely Francesco who hails from Rome and speaks English so well and has a great sense of humour. Last but not  least was the encouragement I received from everyone and to my surprise being presented with the Capo Bianco. 

I really must keep swimming! 

We packed up and, with the Freemans and the Ambroses’, caught the midday ferry to Palau where we then caught a bus to Santa Teresa for the ferry to Corsica. It was magical travelling across and arriving to see the rugged cliffs of Corsica and Bonafacio perched on the top. 

Our hotel, the Santa Teresa was high on the cliffs and our room had a birds eye view. We wandered the town – the old one which was interesting with its old gates, but its quite touristy. Had a great meal with local wine and got back to the hotel quite early as the sun went down at around 9.30! 

Swim trek Day 2

Today we started at 9 am so no real rush.Breakfast with some of the group and then a walk to the jetty.Our bigger boat arrived with Marco the driver. We all squashed aboard and towed the 2 rubber duckies as support vehicles behind.

Crossed over to another island and Franesco explained today’s plan. A 4 km swim, lunch, walk, rest then a 2.5 swim. Ohhhh I thought another ride in the rubber duckie with Francesco as 4 km is beyond me. I dropped in half way and it was probably the hardest part if the swim. I missed the beautiful sandy bay near the closed down abandoned club med style resort.

I made it! Yah to me. Then we had a rest and lunch – a lovely pasta salad, followed by a walk up the hill to see the view and the stone statue of Ciano, father of Count Ciano, Mussolini’s son in law. Amazing stone statue in 3 parts now. Lots of photos.


Back to the boat and motored off to start the next swim. Only 2.5km! But by now it was quite windy and the current was running – fortunately in the direction of the swim.

I dropped in half way and swam probably 1.5km

Back to the hotel for clean up and a few drinks, then short rest before a group dinner at the hotel.

Lovely day and the swimming was fine. Getting used to it little by little.

Writing this before dinner. So more news later.

Day 2 at Taormina

Oh how I love Italy! La vita bella!!!!!

It’s so full of life and fun and just sitting at a bus stop, by a cool fountain, in the park or in your favourite bar with and Aperol spritz in hand provides one with enough entertainment to last a day.

We had a beautiful breakfast on the terrace at our Hotel Villa Schuler. For anyone travelling to Taormina I can’t recommend this hotel more highly. It’s in a great position a street below the main Corso, and is run by a family who have been here for many years. It says it only 2 stars but don’t believe it. There is such attention to detail and the staff are magnificent .

After breakfast we strolled along to the jardini communale and they are a picture. Peaceful in a town almost overrun by tourists. From there we caught a bus just outside the town gate for a 20 min ride up hair pin turns to a little village called Castlemola – why did they ever put a fort way up there? It’s perched on the top of a hill and why they ever put it on this hill one can only guess. It’s a sleepy little town and it welcomes new visitors every hour as that is when the bus arrives and people only stay about an hour!

But that’s enough to wander the little number of streets. Some of the hardy tourists with perfect knees walk back down to Taormina but we caught the bus for another bit of excitement. Passing other buses on the narrow road is a feat for the experienced driver only.

Local traffic policewoman at Castelmolo – making the most of available space

We wandered back to the hotel to collect our things to take another exciting ride – this time on the funicular down to the coast/ beach for an afternoon swim. For us a bit of training for our trek.
 We managed to find a little narrow bit of public beach as we didn’t  want a deck chair at 7 euro for the afternoon. Disaster struck!
 I was  stung on the face by some sort of jellyfish ! it was awful. I’ll write more on this topic when I feel I can face it!

International Power Turtle Congress – Taormina 2013

A great passegiatto – a second classy wedding – some great fashions and the bride arrived in a Ferrari that had more photos taken of it than of her! We think the father was a mafia don!

The Don and his princess
The bridal carriage!

Great dinner at Il Cappucine – salmon, anchovies that melted in the mouth and some nice wine!

Sicily to Sardinia

Last night in lovely Taormina. Went to a beautiful restaurant I had been to with Catherine and Margaret 5 years ago. Still lovely food. Probably one of the best meals we’ve had these holidays.

Had our passeggiata along the Corso and returned to pack and be prepared for the 6 am wake up call. The hotel offered to bring our breakfast to the room so we wouldn’t miss out. They are so kind here at Villa Schuler.

All went according to plan and we were waving good bye to pretty Taormina by 7 am. These villages are probably at their best this early in the morning before the crowds arrive. It’s cool, peaceful and inviting.

Goodbye Etna

We didn’t get lost and made the airport by 8.15 for a 9.30 flight and it took nearly all that time to check in and get through customs! Then we were called by name for our flight. The reason for that was that there were about 20 people on the flight. We had the plane to ourselves ! It took about an hour flying over Sicily and the crystal waters of the Medi to reach Sardinia and land at Olbia airport. It’s a very nice airport and shows that “wealthy” tourists come to play in Sardinia. We caught the bus to Palau and then a short ferry ride across to La Maddalena – a small island surrounded by crystal waters. Arrived around 1.30 and made our way about 1km from the port to our hotel, Miralonga .

view from the hotel

We are now settled in our hotel near the water for 7 nights, so we were able to unpack.
The weather is just beautiful – not as hot as it was, thankfully .

I’m surprised that our little island has quite a town centre and lots of boats. It’s just a short ferry ride from the coastal tip of Sardinia. The hotel is very comfortable with a nice terrace, doors that open wide and lots of places to put things! Fills a lot of my criteria for a good hotel. Had a walk throughout the village last night and its the usual lively scene in the piazza. The little boys in particular dominate with their shrill voices and “own the world” attitude.

Village of La Maddalena

Enjoyed dinner at Sottovento a little restaurant recommended by our taxi driver. Very good but I tell you eating out every night! Lovely but after a while you’re not sure what you feel like. NOT complaining!

Saturday Morning:

We’ve had time to settle in before all the other swimmers arrive. Our first meeting is this afternoon so it will be interesting to meet the group we’ll be spending the week with. I’m sure there will be a few alpha males there all trying to outdo each other in the swims each day. I just hope there is another 60+ slow female to make me feel good about myself. My face is still swollen from the jellyfish sting! Did I mention that? It happened at Taormina when we went down to the beach.

I was swimming merrily along thinking the people in their hired deck chairs would be mightily impressed by this lady swimming out so far, when suddenly I was hit on the right cheek (of my face) by an incredible sting. Went on my arm as well but it was the face that hurt. Managed to swim back to shore and finally Steve came back from his longer swim to find me red and swollen. I got onto the rocky beach when the lifeguard / deck chair hire man came to see if I was alright. He told me to rub it with sea water to make sure the sting was out. But that felt incredible! Then he disappeared to his hut and came back with a box that turned out to be bicarbonate soda. He said no fresh water, not ice. Rub with this. He poured it all over my face and I rubbed. It felt like sand paper! Steve the lifesaver was impressed (not) with the italian version of dealing with stingers!
We got back to the hotel and I saw the damage. Not a good look!

Now two days later its a little swollen, and has red bumps , blisters I guess, on the area of the sting. Hope it goes soon. But I have to say, it’s made me just a little nervous about swimming in the sea from tomorrow. If it happens again – I’m out! Steve said it’s happened once so law of averages says it won’t happen again! Mathematician!

We are having a quite day at the hotel, after a lovely breakfast on the terrace. We have been trying to guess if any of the other guests are some of the swimmers! Fun game trying to pick the swimmers. Mind you , they wouldn’t pick me for one I’m sure.

Spied Francesco, our guide for the swims working with a map to plan the route of the twice daily swims. 

Oh Boy , let the fun begin!

View from our hotel room
Ferry boat we arrived on passes our hotel
Nearby there is a little beach!

Agrigento to Taormina. Wednesday

View from our hotel at Taormina

Woke to the beautiful chirping of birds and the soft yellow glaze on the temples. Bliss.
Want to the downstairs terrace for breakfast prepared by our host Nello (he’s the one with the VERY trendy glasses). I’d heard his little scooter leaving around 6.30 and guessed correctly that he had gone to collect the pastries for breakfast. And how delightful was breakfast. Freshly squeezed orange juice, yoghurt then 3 types of pastry! One with ham, a croissant with marmelatta and another horn type with a pistachio ricotta! I duly wrapped some of mine to take for the day! Steve devoured his.

We went to settle the bill and found our cards didn’t work and then were 3 euros short to be able to pay in cash! Poor Nello. He was very gracious and said the beers from last night were on him!

Taormina piazza

We headed off for Piazza Armerina and the Roman Villa of Casale. What a villa it was. The villa has the most marvellous mosaic floors imaginable. There are 63 rooms and some are in such great condition you can see the design very clearly. It was all restored last year and is very visitor friendly. Each area is explained as you move around the villa on wooden walking platforms above the rooms so you can look down. The roofing has been either replaced with timber vaulted ceilings or is open. It is unsure when the villa was built and it was covered during an earth quake. Seems its about 4 th or 5th century AD! I’ll put the photos in a separate  post to do it some justice.

We left there around 1:00 and got to Taormina around 2:30. A good quick run and Steve pretty well stuck to the speed limit though most others around us didn’t.

more views

Did a (partly accidental!) circuit of the gorgeous town of Taormina before finding our Hotel which is just lovely with beautiful views to the coast. The greeting was warm and we were given iced tea whilst the porter got our luggage and parked the car. Good break for Steve as the parking is tight.

Went for an afternoon ramble. Saw the little pink tutu girls preparing for their performance.

Young ballerina preparing for the show in the ancient teatro

It will be a long evening for them as we think the show is this evening!

Climbed the stairs of the teatro and gasped at the view. I’m lucky enough to have bee here before with my sister Catherine and sister in law Margaret but the beauty of the place still takes my breath away.

Went strolling aln the Corso and once agaian Steve “won” the shopping. He bought a beautiful white linen shirt and I bought nothing!
Now he’s all set for Demi’s  christening (Bertie and Fabio’s new little daughter. We’re going to the christening in Lerici (near the Cinque Terre) in another 2 weeks . After the swim trek!

Our hotel from the teatro Top floor balcony

Our room on the 3rd floor is lovely – not overly flash but very very nice and comfortable and has a terrace with sun lounges and a view to the sea. I’m sitting on the trace with a glass of red writing this now – listening to a combination of birds, bells and orchestral music which I suspect is coming from the Greek theatre nearby – which despite its ancient beginnings still has concerts etc. This afternoon when we walked there we saw all these little tutu girls in pink with hair scraped back into buns dusted with glitter. They were followed by mommas with wheels suitcases with I guess a change of costumes. There was to be a performance of some sort of ballet and I can now hear the music. Would be lovely to go to a concert there.

Went out for dinner and passaggiata along the corso to the piazza and the wonderful lookout over the bay . Lovely way to finish the night

Scenes in a piazza at Taormina

Lifesaving in Sicily

I don’t usually let Steve onto my blog other than to do and edit for me!
But I’m including his email to his lifesaving friends on his analysis of lifesaving at a beach near Agrigento .

Greetings all!
I thought that you might find the attached photo of interest.
Whilst on our current tour, Fran and I were encouraged to visit what is regarded as one of the best beaches in Sicily – Scala dei Turchi on the Southern coast near the absolutely fabulous Valley of the Temples at Agrigento (but we will amuse you all with that place on our return at our slide night!).
Please observe the state of the raging surf – so dangerous that the good lifesaver on duty has seen fit to raise the universal symbol of a closed beach (the large red flag) on his well-equipped patrol tower.
Observe the said Lifesaver – noting that in their world a patrol consists of one – in his fine red shirt, emblazoned with the word “Salvataggio” – but the regrettable absence of any form of identifying (or protecting) headdress. We understood from a brief conversation that he was keenly waiting to see Craig and Jeff paddle past on one of their Sunday marathon paddles to Mooloolaba via someplace else on earth!
Our eyes turn to the aforementioned patrol tower. My heart leapt when I noticed that they still use the surf ski as an item of rescue equipment – until on closer inspection I realised that it was one of those plastic boats that fishermen use (and a suitably archaic paddle).
But it is not all negative. See at the base of the tower they have a unique method of storing their Rescue Tube – folded so that it bears an uncanny resemblance to an old fashioned life ring – no doubt intended to give reassurance to the older beachgoers.
As we survey the scene we can draw assurance of the capacity to perform rescues in all conditions, when we inspect what can only be described as a “variant” of our IRB. No doubt it has been finely tuned to accommodate local conditions; and we can only envisage it surging through the angry surf on its errand of mercy with our worthy lifesaver straining every sinew of his body while pulling on both oars to carry his cargo (of two more of those quaintly folded rescue tubes) to the struggling bathers in distress offshore.
And then we look just to the right of the rescue craft to see what was without doubt the most interesting thing on the beach that day. Notice the two knees forming a “V” on the green deckchair? The body attached to them was an absolute stunner!