Versailles.

Today up early and on my way to Versailles. All very easy. I just walked two blocks to get the train and I was on my way with a train load of others in the rain. 

It took about 40 mins and I thought I was clearly going to avoid the crowd by going on a Friday – a lower crowd day. Not so. I had per bought my ticket so was ready to hop to the front and found the queue already a mile long. It was raining and cold and I could sympathise with the whining children in front of me. 
Finally got in and the crowds were almost unbearable. We shuffled through and I tried to enjoy myself but it was hard. It eased a little around the fantastic hall of mirrors but not much. I revived by having tea at Angelina, the famous Salon de The.  Then I strolled the large galleries of art before deciding to tackle the gardens. I went out and it was raining and cold so I decided I had seen some great gardens already and Marie Antoinette’s house at the far end of the garden I would look at in movies. I had seen it in 1977 so perhaps it was the same? 

I got the train back to Paris as I had another Opera at 7.30 and I wanted to look my best – not all wind blown. 

Got ready and this time took the metro and got there early so went across the road to look at the special Art exhibition set up in the gardens opposite the Opera House Bastille. Some great art and some way out art. 
I then found my seat. Amazing but no one at the door to check you in? The bell had just gone and not an usher in sight.
Anyway my seat tonight was in the 2nd row, 2nd balcony. Great view. Had a lovely lady from ” the village of Montmarte” as she so charmingly put it next to me. She was elegant and lovely and then her friend arrived and they were both charming. They told me a friend had moved to Brisbane but “it did not agrees with her. She was scared of zee snakes”. I told them it was not unusual to find snakes in the garden, but we were used to them. They looked amazed. 
Then the young man on the other side joined in and I had another new friend. He was on his own as his wife was away and doesn’t like Opera. He was about 30 and was very sweet. I spent interval talking to them and they were all really lovely. The Opera -“Daughter of the Regiment” – was really good. It was a great production and my new friends told me the director and the conductor were well regarded. It was a good production but was in French as were the subtitles – not a word of English, so even though I knew what was going on I missed a lot. There were quite a lot of spoken lines as it was a fairly light opera. One particularly good solo – by the heroine who was to be separated from her new love – brought tears to more than a few eyes. The lady next to me sobbed and was mopping her eyes for several minutes after. The French are so demonstrative! Not usually! 
It ended happily, as all operas do, and down came the French style crowd and cock a doddle dooed . It brought the house down. 
I took the no 69 bus home past the Louvre over the bridge with the view of the Eiffel Tower down Bve St Germaine and I was home.  

All Saints Day.

I have been very quiet since my day of indulgence! But only on this blog . . 
In fact I have been very busy tying to get to the end of my “must do” list for Paris. 

After Wednesday night out by myself I took it slowly again on Thursday and, as it seems to rain every day, I allowed myself a little read in bed before hitting the road. 

I just finished reading “The Submission” recommended by Jill and I loved it. Check it out. It’s about an architect who wins a competition for his design for a memorial for the site of the 9/11 disaster. It’s full of controversy and I really enjoyed it. It will be referred to later in this blog. 
Anyway, it kept me busy this morning until I got myself ready to hit the road. What I love about Paris is the enjoyable walking. I walked a new route and found myself in new areas as I walked to the Rodin museum. It’s in a charming street near  Invalides. It only took me half an hour and I saw lots of interesting things. It was very quite out as today is a public holiday and everyone was sleeping in. By now it was only 10.30 so I wasn’t that late! 
The Rodin Museum is a wonderful place and I couldn’t believe I hadn’t been before. It is located in the old hotel Bodin where Rodin and some other creative souls lived and created. It has a new entrance to the grounds where some of the major sculpture are housed and then you can move into the gardens to view the famous “Thinker” and “The gates of Hell”. 

                                         I think it’s called the Eiffel Tower

                                        Where did I leave my clothes……?

Then you enter the Hotel itself with more wonderful work. His work is magnificent and, having read the book The Submission,  

I was reminded when I read about a competition Rodin entered and was the subject of great controversy when the jury to select the winner couldn’t agree. Very similar to the book. Anyway he became famous bought the beautiful old hotel and donated all his work to France . But the French being …..well French, took some time deciding if they would accept. We call it playing hard to get. 

I kept walking to Invalides and admired its grandeur, and moved on to Champs de Mars to once again admire the Eiffel Tower and then wander back along the route the no 69 takes along Rue St Dominique. I got home by the time the rain started again and rested the feet for an hour before heading out again . This time over the Pont Royal and through the Tuileries. A it was a public holiday everyone was out. I saw the crowds playing games, walking hand in hand, sliding down slippery slides, sitting on the same green chairs I saw in the Luxembourg Garden, drinking wine, playing cards and chess and generally enjoying being out.

Boys will be boys.
This time I didn’t stop. It was much cooler and I was on a mission. I hurried along Rue de Rivoli, past Place Vendome and all the high-end shops and into St Madeleine’s church  where I wanted to hear the organ concert. I stayed for about 45 mins of heart stopping, ear deafening, organ playing to a very diverse crowd.

St Madeleine’s

I then enjoyed window shopping and it may have been a public holiday but all the rich were out in the top-end shops and most people around me were carrying bags! Oh how they loved the luxurious bag here in Paris. With the name clearly on show. Prada, Gucci, Armani, Choo. You name it and the Russians, Chinese and assorted other rich people were toting them around. I tried to maintain an air of mystery as I rubbed shoulders with them – at the windows.

Which one for home?
I shouted myself a glass of wine and slipped home around 8pm for a meagre dinner of quiche. I greeted the team of workmen on my arrival home. I may not have mentioned but the team are working on the unit I share the landing with. There are 3 very polite men there from 8 in the morning till 8 at night. Someone must be paying them a lot to finish and they tell me they be finished on Saturday. They greet me morning and night and make me feel very welcome. Not to mention safe and watched over. 
Off to bed with a new book – Robert Harris “Fear”. Hope I don’t scare myself. 

Visiting Monet in Giverny

Today I decided  to leave town and visit Monet at home in Giverny. 

I’ve been wanting to go here for some time – probably since Wendy  took  photos of the beautiful garden in black and white.

I had to go by tube to St Lazare station and get the fast train to Giverny. I took my time and got there in the early afternoon just as the rain stopped. 

It was beautiful and peaceful. The good thing about the colder weather is the tourist lines are not so bad.
I had a few hours wandering around the garden and the house and sitting watching people. I think I’m becoming invisible! Some Americans arrived and entered by the exit door to the house and I heard the women say “This is a funny entrance”! – not realising she was in the kitchen. 
Oh dear. 

I walked around the village of Giverny and saw the gallery there as well. It’s a lovely place to visit and as I love Monet’s work it was rather special. I even got to see the video about his life. 

Got back to Paris and went for a walk around the river and streets nearby as the lights were coming on and some of the streets have put up their Christmas lights .
Tomorrow after my haircut I’m going to visit the Champs-Elysees to see if the lights are up the yet. 

A night at the Opera

I bought a ticket to the opera (Tosca) at Bastille and went along on the number 69 bus, my favourite bus in Paris.

I dressed up! Not not really  but I did wear black with a coloured scarf. So I fitted right in. 

I got there early so I could have a “coup de champagne ” and watch the crowds arrive. 

They are a funny lot these French. I know there were some tourists there but there were lots of locals as well . Black is the colour de jour. but there was not  too much high fashion. However, there was one lady who was like Brisbane’s own Deborah “hat wearing to all occasions” Quinn; there was a woman with a severe white hair cut  that was so sharp. She married this with  bright red glasses, a coloured blouse, jacket and full skirt and funny high boots. Quite a look. Perhaps ran an art gallery? 
Another young thing had a pink thing shaped like a disc on her head. Fashion? Not sure. 
A few elegant ladies and a few young things showing some leg. 
Getting to your seat is quite a performance. There were no ushers to ask so when the bells rang people just lined up at the door nominated on their ticket. Now my ticket had 2nd balcony, which  I climbed to, and then door 11. No door 11. I went to the bar and asked the man there as there was no one else around and he said ‘go to door 13’ . Of course – why didn’t I think of that? I went in door 13 and then climbed up and then down till I reached row 5 . During the 2 intervals I exited by door 11 on 1st balcony. Easy when you know. 
Interval is quite different to interval at our Opera. Everyone rushes the bar but not always for that glass of champagne ……but for food. 
How do the French stay slim? They get into the food. They nibbled and munched on sandwiches, cheese , muffins and biscuits, ice creams and even apples. Quite a surprise. There are lots of bars and not the queues we see at the bar in our concert/ opera theatre where every one seems to need a drink . 
It’s also like a runway, not the crush we have at interval. It’s very spread out on a terrace that wraps the theatre. It’s more a promenade while munching on something.
However the toilets are just like home, crowded, but the toilets were very old with chipped seats. At the Paris Opera. I ask you – What’s happening!!!
At the end there were the usual number of curtain calls and lots of cheering from the crowd . 
The theatre cleared quickly all rushing, not for cars parked underground, but for public transport. Me included on the no 69 which took me home to the left bank via Rue Rivoli, the Louvre, over the Seine with a view of the Eiffel Tower then delivered me to Blv St Germaine where I got a phone call from Steve as I walked home. Happy Birthday Steve. Wish you were here.  
Tomorrow Monet’s house at Giverny. 

Paris on a Monday

Today I woke slowly and lay in bed listening to the sounds from the street below. 

People walking along with high heels, children being coaxed along all rugged up against the cold. Students on their way to uni, bike riders chatting as they bike along. Big doors to the apartments being clicked open then slamming shut. 


I’m in a first floor apartment in Rue  Universite which is three streets from the river near the Musee d’Orsay.

The chandelier

The chair

The see through bath


It’s a fairly quiet street with lots of decorating shops filled with the most amazing things for your home . If you want to be very swish then this is the place to come. Gorgeous glass vases, antique tables, lush fabrics, glossy and matt tiles in every colour, a see through bath, coloured chandeliers, a chair shaped like a man, silver candle sticks, umbrella stands, lights in every size, stuffed animals, tassels, braid and bows to tie back the curtains. I could window shop all day.

On a practical note there is a 3 story Monoprix food store. This is where all the locals do their supermarket shopping. It’s well laid out and has a doorman in formal coat and tie. Of course that’s where I bought my meagre supplies of tea (herbal), cereal (muesli),  tomatoes, cheese, smoked salmon, humus – and a bottle of wine. All very useful in a little flat for one.


Also in the surrounding streets are shops filled with beautiful clothes – but all for winter. Gorgeous cashmere jumpers in a rainbow of colours, coats and jackets, boots, scarves and hats .

Let me tell you what is big here. Studs…… Studs on shoes, jackets, boots , jumpers just to name a few. Also embellishments on jumpers. Feathers make an appearance as
does leather, used as a trim on lots of things including dresses and jackets, also used
as patches on the elbows of jumpers and jackets .

Then there are little pearls, shiny things, but all tastefully done in the better shops and
a bit nasty in the not so tasteful places.

Mixed in with this are some great pastry shops and chocolate temples! Carmel and I
were only saying the other day how good and boring we were . We hadn’t had one
naughty pastry! So we lashed out in a little town in the Loire one day when it was cold
and wet. Yum. Then we had a macaroon with Carmel’s friend Annie. Yum yum. But I
couldn’t do it every day. I’m struggling to fit my clothes now.

I lined up with lots of locals and booked my train ticket to Sanremo. I’m going there next
week for another language course. I think it would be cheaper to fly, but by the time I
get to the airport and worry about the weight of my suitcase it’s easier to pay the 177
euro to go by train. I go to Nice and then change for Ventimiglia  in Italy where I change
again ! I am booked into a little flat in the seaside town. Hope it’s good. 

Back to Paris

We drove back to Paris and I must say I have been very comfortable driving here. I think I might forget how to drove on the other side when I return! 


We got back and the pace picked up again after the sleepy Sancerre countryside . 

Carmel is in a hotel as I’ve  taken a small flat for the next week and she wouldn’t fit in. 

So I arrived at my apartment for the week and got settled. Its on the left bank on Rue l’universite about two. Streets behind the Musee  D’Orsay. A very nice area full of decorating shops . At least I won’t be tempted to buy – the lamps, rugs footstools, etc are safe from me! Maybe a little chandelier? The apartment turned out to be a winner! I’ll be very happy here. It’s so comfortable Carmel commented if it’s cold I might be tempted not to go out at all! But I promise I will. 

We had afternoon tea, complete with the macaroon with Carmel’s friend Annie. She’s a lovely lady and I’ve really enjoyed meeting her. She is the one who has selected my hairdresser next week! 
Afterwards we had a dinner at a local brasserie. It was rustic French food and I was a little sad as Carmel leaves tomorrow. 
After a bad nights sleep (always bad on the first night for some strange reason) we turned our clocks back for the end of daylight saving.

Goodbye Sancerre and the Loire ….Back to Paris

We finished our  stay in the wine area of the Loire with two great dinners after exploring the area. 


Thursday night we walked through the rain swept street of the village to arrive at the restaurant La pomme d’or. It was so tastefully set up and we started with a beautiful Savignon and then a Pinot. The food was lovely and the host and her chef husband very friendly .


I have found the French in these small villages really very friendly and more than happy to have a chat. I think it’s because they are starved for conversation because, as I have told you, there are so few people on the streets. They really keep to themselves. But when you find one in a shop or museum they are more than happy to chat on and on.


On Friday night we went to La Tour – a Michelin star restaurant and it was as predicted very good. The food had a refinement that wasn’t there in other very good places we have eaten. 

One star down  four to go!

We packed tonight . Oh boy the bags are shrinking I think! Carmel leaves on Sunday so has to be very good at arranging her bags to get them on the plane. 
Back to Paris tomorrow .

Wednesday

Up early bright and early to meet Laure who turned out to be a girl/woman. For E45 she was taking us on a wine tour. We called into Joseph Mellot for a quick visit to ask about his wines in Australia then moved on to Bue and the wines of which we learned such a lot with Laure and with the owner – a lovely young man. They have the only egg shaped vats in the area. The other vats are concrete and some double sized steel vats. We had a great explanation of what goes on from the planting growing etc. It’s an amazing industry here and is quite tightly controlled to preserve its quality.

We moved to another place driving though the most gorgeous countryside – picture the rolling gentle hills covered in neatly planted vines some yellow (Savignon) and some green (mostly Pinot) 

The sky is blue there are little statues with crosses of the intersections of the roads. 


Wine growers have vines in different parts of the valley. Some in flint, others in limestone, or clay which all impact on the type of wine. We met another handsome young wine maker and even got to taste the wine at various stages of its fermentation . The wines here were very good and we seriously want to source them in Australia. 

As Laure had been so lovely we invited her join  us for lunch and she suggestion the bistro at Chavignol where we had been on Monday. We continued our chat over a lovely lunch before returning to Sancerre and a little afternoon rest. 
Quiet night tonight I think!!!!!

Exploring around Sancerre

Lounging at the Loire


Sunday in a small French village is almost a non-event. There is church and everything else is closed. Today we were lucky. There were some antique markets which we wandered around spying some good furniture and little else. They were more flea markets than antiques. 


We then drove down the hill and had a beautiful omelette for lunch before going to the local festa / fete  which was chocolate!

It was held in the new cultural centre in Saint Saturnin.  The locals were all there and after passing through the entry hall decorated with fake autumn trees we got to the hall. Different chocolate makers were there showing their wares . 
We tasted our way around the room.  Lots of samples. And a few purchases later we left for a little drive .
We ended up at another lovely little village Chavignol – home of the goats cheese.  We visited the cheese makers and saw all the different types cheese called crottin de chavignol AOC The new cheese and the older cheese with mould growing on it! We bought a few for later! 
We stopped in at a rather lovely gallery and had a good chat to the owner who gave us lots of information about the area – including a pottery area nearby.
Monday we went for a drive to Cosne-Cours and did some supermarket shopping. Such a beautiful drive. Country roads lined with autumn coloured trees. Vines growing in neat little rows in small “patches”. Some green and some yellow.
We continued on to La Borne – a centre for pottery. It was beautiful though the pottery was not all modern. It reminded me of the 70 ‘s style pottery wine glasses and heavy pottery plates. The main centre had an exhibition and one of the exhibitors – a Japanese man whose work was modern and rather impressive. Will try and include a photo .

When we returned we had a visit to the Maison de Sancerre. For those readers who don’t know this area, Sancerre is famous for its wines in particular their white- the Savignon Blanc and the Pinot. They had a wonderful display with animated films and lots of information. We wanted to be a little informed because on Wednesday we are going on a wine tour. We finished  with a little wine tasting at Joseph Mellot one of the biggest growers and wine maker in the area and went to his restaurant for dinner. Very good Food and wine.

Tuesday was foggy so we had a slow start and headed off to Bourges. It was a small city with lots to offer. We wandered the medieval streets, visited the rather magnificent cathedral and went on a tour to Jacques Cours house. He was a wealthy man in the 1500’s who built a rather magnificent house, on the fruits of his trading business . 
Got home at 7.30 and surprise – we cooked our own dinner!