Last Day in the Village.

July 31, 2016July 31, 2016 / brisbanefrannie / 3 Comments

Woke late to the sounds in the Mairie outside my window. Today was spring cleaning day in the Place.

The Council were having their meeting today at 11 and there was action in the space in front. This happens to be the space in front of the Brannock’ s house.

There were sweepers sweeping and waterers watering and Policemen coming and going from the Council Offices in the Mairie.

I took the opportunity to put my head inside this Council building that always seems so closed up. It was rather lovely.

Staircase inside the Council’s Mairie building.

Susanna, the fun lady who manages the Brannocks house for the group of owners, happens to be on the council, so had asked could she call in for a chat before the meeting.

Margaret and I went for coffee beforehand at the lovely cafe opposite. It’s such a special little place and holds special memories as I’ve eaten there each visit I’ve had and love the little outdoor terrace.

It’s the cafe behind the flags!

I wanted to wander the streets of the village one last ( well almost last) time.

I saw so many things this morning , afternoon and evening. You would love it.

We walked down past Bar Marigny and saw the crowd that hang out there. They nodded. Or called Bojour as we we passed by. We went to a little shop at the end of town near the Happy Tree – which has the cutest felt stars hanging in it.

More stalls appeared. Different every evening.

The little boutique has lot of clothes and there was a mother with three daughters trying things on and looking great in everything. There are quite a few Norwegians and Swedish staying in the area. In fact someone commented that they are ‘very big and take up lots of space in the cafes in their big groups with lots of children!’

Margaret and I descended to the cave below with its cushions, lamps,, bolts of fabric, glassware, beads and a cupboard of clothes, Tout – 50%. That sounded good. So after much wriggling in the little dressing room I bought a lovely mustard linen top.

Back out side we walked along the Grand Rue, past Mirabeau where I bought some wine to thank John and Margaret for having me and to wish them a happy joint70. They have friends arriving in Sept for a cruise then a stay in Cotignac to celebrate.

Then it was a general wander and observation of the locals and the tourists. This village is beautiful and it’s becoming a little seasonal with the tourists. It’s a shame for the locals if they find the work so seasonal they have to move away in winter.

We sat in a cafe by the four seasons fountain and watched a drama unfold.

A young woman driving a small car suddenly stopped and jumped out. Her large dong sitting on the front seat saw a likely playmate. Another big dog. So he leapt out of the window.

She left the car, with about 5 people waiting patiently behind her and took off after the dog. He was in dog heaven. Now he had two playmates. He chased the dog and she chased him. There were calls from the crowds , waves from all, until a young man grabbed her dog. She carried him back to her car – now really blocking the narrow street and dumped him in the front seat. She hurried around to the drivers side to calls of ‘ wind your window up!’ She did, she waved and drove off with the dog looking out from his view on the front seat. Drama over.

Sitting by the 4 seasons fountain

We saw tables being put along on the road then realised the road was to be closed. There must be a party tonight. We’ll have to come back.

After siesta we moved our aperitif hour to outside the house. It’s a great spot to watch the world go by or to catch up with neighbours as we did.

NEGHBOURS,, English couple Peter and Lyn

We just had to go back to the Grand Rue later that evening to check out the events. And there they were, dancing in the streets. There was a disc jockey spinning lots of favourites and the dances moved from line dancing to waltzing to swing to modern bopping and the old favourite YMCA. Young, old, big and small. All together. It was such a festive occasion.

Even the gorgeous dark haired girl from the cafe – with the amazing smile , got up and danced with her mum between serving drinks.

It gave a taste of summer in a village. It was great fun.

Try and get here I can promise you’d love it.

Exploring French Villages.

July 29, 2016July 29, 2016 / brisbanefrannie / Leave a comment

My journey through some more of the villages of this Var region continues with my No 1 driver Margaret.

This time we headed north and then west. Check it out on the map from the last blog.

I’m always excited to be heading to new villages. Will they contain a surprise? Will they move me in some way? Or will they be too touristy?

So as we drove along I thought of the features that make these villages so………French.

We headed out on road D 22 toward Sillans. Or it’s full name Sillans la Cascade. It’s a pretty drive and you come upon it quite quickly, around a bend and you have to stop at the traffic light. These lights only allow one way traffic through the narrow part of the village. This is where we came for the Saffron Festival. It’s reached by walking up a little hill which circles the area containing the cafes. It’s not a ‘Place’ like the ones found in many other villages, so this one is slightly different.

Sillans has little winding streets, a bell tower and some colourful pots on doorstepS and at windows. And lots of stone walls.

Further down the D22 we reached Aups. I’ve been here before. It has a lovely entrance and lots of winding streets and it has the beautiful clock tower with its campanile. It has a rather large memorial to those lost in the war. It was a stronghold of the French resistance. It is also well known as a truffle centre.

On we went along the D9 to Moissac- Bellevue, a hill town. There aren’t as many hill towns in this area so this stands out. It’s beautiful colours – all muted pinks and terracotta and as you wind up you arrive at a little Place ( or piazza as they are called in Italy). It has a very large fountain, another feature of all French villages.

This fountain dominates the small Place

It’s clock tower and campanile is once again beautiful and as we sat we heard its bells.

The bell tower in Moissac

I’m becoming a little addicted to the iron work on these bell towers. Such a feature in each village as we arrive. This village is small and very well looked after. There would only be about 200 occupants and they look after it well. It was very quiet as we walked the few little streets that make up the village.

Only the birds to keep us company in Moissac

We had a cafe creme in the only little restaurant in the village and there was only one other little business which was also the Office de Tourism.

The view from the lookout near the fountain across the bouleadrome, was wonderful

The War Memorial, with its small list of names, sat proudly with a bird sitting on the cock at the top. Quite a sight.

Along the D271 and five km later we entered Regusse. It’s little Grand Rue was lined with about 4 cafes. There were shady trees and a great view of the church, the Notre Dame de la Misericorde with its glazed bell tower.

Once again the clock tower and its iron work bell tower is lovely.

We wandered the streets and saw some children enjoying a game.

We saw a man working on his jeep and it reminded me of Steve and his jeep.

We continued west and drove slowly through Tavernes. Not the prettiest of villages but it had the features I’ve been talking about.

The campanile was lovely.

We arrived at Varages and parked near the Domaine Huile which we visited and spoke to the beautiful young girl who was reading an English book. The olive oil products were many and varied and showed how important olive trees are in this area.

This village is not touristy, so it had a very local feel. People stopping for their bread – double parking, while they run returning with a baguette under their arm. Waving to or double kissing their friends in greeting.

Another thing that distinguishes a French village. The boulangerie.

Off to the Cafe for a cool drink and to watch the locals interact. The campanile rang out 12 bells and the businesses started to close.

The florist came over to the fountain and submerged a big potted fern and carried it back to his shop.

The memorial stood tall and acted as a roundabout. Part of everyday life. Yet a constant reminder.

The heat of the day slowed people down.

What would they be doing during the siesta?

So ….. What are the features that are common to all the villages I have been:

A campanile with beautiful iron work

A main fountain and lots of little fountains.

A war Memorial

Blue shutters

Colourful potted plants

A boulangerie – often with a queue.

Pretty cafes with coloured umbrellas.

A bouleadrome

Mamma Mia. Last day in Trani

July 22, 2016November 25, 2017 / brisbanefrannie / 6 Comments

We survived party night inTrani! Almost as good a party as in Tarifa last year. The crowds below our apartment kept the chatting up until at least 3am. Not loud screams or obscenities or ever drunkenness. Just lots of talking and laughing.

We woke to golden sunlight, looking out across the port providing the best wake-me-up there is.

A fairly leisurely start with coffee in a nearby cafe before heading off to find Santa Maria di Siponto.

On our way to the car I did my good deed of the day. We were crossing a small street and a little old lady called to me. I went over to her and she asked me to help her across the road. I gave her my arm and we walked along chatting. I had to bend over to hear her she was so little.

She told me she was 92! Her daughter lived in Milan and she had lived in Trani for 30 years. She talked on and on in Italian and I was tested! We walked another block together before we thanked me and turned into her apartment. She’d been out shopping – in the heat. What a sweetie.

So we arrived ( finally – as we got a little lost). Signs here are almost non existent except for signs to the beach or Lido or the buffo mozzarella factory! This Basilica, Santa Maria, was built in 1117 and had many changes in fortune over the years. It had been abandoned for many years. Until ……

Recently, Edoardo Tresoldi created a wire mesh impression of the church – an artistic interpretation of the Basilica, which was abandoned following a 13th-century earthquake and currently sits on what has become the Archaeological Park of Siponto.

It’s an amazing sight.

He has even created some mesh people,who of course we befriended.

We drove back along the coast and explored the seaside villages and enjoyed the names of the ‘Lido’ (“Lidi?”) scattered along the coast. Everything from Bikini Lido to Ipanema, Fanta, Torre, African. Variety is the key! And the deck chairs and umbrellas, as far as the eye can see.

We arrived back at siesta time and decided to pack! Yes, sadly we go tomorrow. To Bari, then by train to Rome. We have a night there and then poor Steve flies home. Board meetings in Melbourne on Tuesday. I’m going off to Cotignac to visit our friends the Brannocks. Lucky me!

So the travel tales continue.

So this afternoon, after a little shopping, we had our last Trani, Aperol Spritz for me and beer for the boy.

We observed the locals. I feel we are getting to know them! We went to the same bar and saw the same people walking. The Nonno with his grandson. The fisher monger who today was able to get his cart through the little lane. The man with the turned up collar being driven to his restaurant on a Vespa by one of his waiters. The handsome man on a pink bike who stops at the corner to observe and make a call (who to I wonder?). The mamma in the cute Smart Car who drops her daughter to work in the cafe. The teenager who rides the littlest, noisiest bike imaginable. And doesn’t he love the attention! The mother and daughter jogging together. All the nonno and nanna’s walking and sitting along the promenade.

I feel we know them already.

We had our passeggiata and talked about the things we would like to bring home.
I’d love the long paved promenade with all its wooden benches at our beach. Also the stepped stone fence available for people to sit on and watch the world go by.

I’d love for people to turn off the TV and go out walking after dinner. But I wonder where we would walk? To the beach? But there aren’t many places to sit and see and be seen. We need to embrace the sociable side like the Italians do.

As you can hear in my voice, I love the Italians. Yes, they can be thoughtless – they throw rubbish out their car window! They push in, in traffic! But they love children. They love eating and they love a chat.

After dinner we strolled and I felt like a piccolo gelato. So we stopped in and I ordered mine. Panecotta. Steve thought he’d have the Cafe Speciale. It was advertised on the board outside. So in his best Italian lubicated with wine and after dinner limoncello he ordered ‘Cafe Speciale’. And got a coffee.

So as I’m writing this I’m listening to the church bells and watching the crowds gather for another night that isn’t a party night. It’s just the usual – people sharing a common space.

Our apartment on the corner – top floor with a balcony over both streets!

So for now – arrivederci!

Terrific Trani a friendly Port

July 20, 2016January 2, 2017 / brisbanefrannie / 3 Comments

Slept so well last night after a wonderful dinner on the terrace at the Borgo San Marco.

Today – Wednesday and we set out for a fairly shortish drive up the coast to Trani. We stopped at a few little beach side places along the way including Monopoli a larger port. It was just lovely. Not touristy , certainly no Australians!

It has a wonderful Cathedral dating from the 12th Century it’s in great condition and is having even more work being done outside. We saw a priest talking to someone who looked like a architect/ builder and I’m sure he was asking for further discounts on the work.

I’m sure if I had this as my local church I would go every day. It was full of light and the paint work was stunning.

We moved on to Molfetta another port and found a lovely little restaurant, quite modern, right on the rocks near the port. Steve a had a burger with a twist. It had a curry flavoured crispy bun! I had ….. Salmon and veg! We’re certainly not missing out on any good food. But we are very good. No eating between meals!

view from our little table built into the stone fence.

Continued up the coast to Trani as we wanted to arrive in time to enjoy the apartment and the views. Also it’s best to arrive during siesta as the streets are quiet and it’s easy to park. Lovely Fredrica met us and the apartment is right on the front facing the port and will be wonderful for two nights. I could stay here two weeks! Check out the views in the next photos.

Naturally Steve is relaxing watching the last 20 km of the Tour de France before we explore the town.

Out the door is the wonderful view of the Port.

After siesta we intend to explore the narrow streets surrounding the port. The Cathedral is supposed to be spectacular as it is one of the few in Italy right by the water. Fredrica told us this isn’t a very touristy place. It’s mostly used by local Italians for a getaway. What a place. Our friends from Sydney – the Roberts told us about this little port – and now I’m telling you ……

More exploring tonight and tomorrow ……

Have you got any little secret locations you would like to share? Please put into the Comments Box.

From Sea to Farm

July 19, 2016January 2, 2017 / brisbanefrannie / 1 Comment

One last breakfast on the terrace overlooking the sea. Goodbye Palazzo Senape de Pace.

So along with my own ‘Dan Brown’ we headed off for Ostuni – the white hilltop town over looking the Adriatic Sea. It’s quite a big town and all roads lead up past beautiful gardens to the Cathedral at the top.

The mosaic dome on the cathedral can be seen from far away and the white washed houses shine in the sun. It’s interesting how different areas have different types of features. This one is bianco. It’s not far from Alberobella where we started our Puglia journey. It was all white as well but with the pointy stone roofs.

After lunch we head for our night’s accommodation, a Masseria – a farm stay. Or agritourismo as they are called up north. There are lots of them around here. They offer lovely accommodation often a ‘wellness centre’ and an evening meal. We heard about this one from friends and decided to try it.

I’m so glad we did. Arrival at big iron gates set the tone. The white buildings are clustered farm style around a courtyard with a chapel, lovely gardens and a beautiful pool area. . Beautiful main rooms and lovely separate bedrooms. It’s charming and practical all at once.

Steve likes the pillows and towels. they have SM embroidered on them!

I’m sitting beside the lovely swimming pool listening to the different accents of the guests, some with children and one family with an Asian nanny.

We’re looking forward to tonight’s meal. It sounds wonderful.

Before then a swim, a nap and walk in the olive groves.

Palazzo Tour

July 18, 2016January 2, 2017 / brisbanefrannie / 3 Comments

There’s something lovely about breakfast on a terrace with a beautiful view. Do you agree?

Today we sat on the terrace and had coffee and planned our day.

We planned a trip to the beach but before we left we spoke to Sonia our host at the Palazzo. I asked could we have a tour of the house as our Swiss friends had yesterday and told us the owners were happy to show guests their house.

She was lovely and organised her father to take us.

We had to walk out our door No 27 and along to No 39 -they own it all. We re entered and Luigi Senape was there to greet us. He guided us through their private Palazzo. Too many rooms to count. All very luxurious. He explained the family history – all in Italian and we understood almost all.

Luigi Senape in one of the tooms of the Palazzo

The Palazzo has been in the family for 300 years. Luigi grew up in this place and like his father was an advocat – a lawyer.

There are many old valuable items in the house including 3 pianos, one a grand which Luigi plays.

He was so charming and at the end told us he was 88.

In the library Steve saw a Dan Brown book he had just finished. He pointed it out and said (in his best Italian) that he had just read it.

Later in the afternoon, after our trip down the coast I saw his daughter and she asked if my husband was Dan Brown!

Lost in translation!

So after the Grand Tour we left for the rest of our day…….

A drive down the coast road to the tip of Italy. A little seaside place called Santa Maria da Leuca.

To get there we drove past : hundreds if not thousands of Italian beach lovers with their umbrellas, plastic deck chairs, buckets, spades, blow up play things. And all the women wear bikinis. Young, old, thin and not so thin. I’m definitely overdressed.

It’s a colourful scene and proves its not just Australians who love the beach!

We stopped for coffee at a little beach side cafe. All blue and white tables and a smiley, friendly nonna served us – but it was very windy so we didn’t swim.

We passed trattorias, osterias, cafes, apertivi bars, camping grounds, holiday homes with shutters down against the heat or …..perhaps they were empty?

We arrived at SS d Leuca in time for a lovely swim and picked a place for lunch right on the beach. The place in the photo above the blue umbrellas.

Once again simple delicious food

We watched the swimmers and soaked up the atmosphere.

Naturally we finished with a gelato – just a small one! As we walked also the promenade.

We arrived back at Gallipoli and our Palazzo Senape and decided to take another swim. This time at the beach at the end of our street.

I love the blue mats running down the sand so when you get out you don’t have to get sandy! This beach unlike many of the rocky beaches has coarse sand.

We’re back at the Palazzo writing and preparing for dinner at Bastion a lovely looking restaurant recommended by our hosts.

More later!

Otranto

July 18, 2016January 2, 2017 / brisbanefrannie / 2 Comments

Yesterday we drove across the tip of Italy. The heel.

I had agonised on which seaside town to stay in and opted for Gallipoli over Otranto.

Gallipoli sits on a little island so is surrounded by water. Little bays for swimming, small boat harbours. It sounded more laid back than Otranto. So I found our Palazzo and sealed the deal.

Then Simona, our guide in Lecce said although they were both lovely she likes Otranto ‘A little more sophisticated ‘she said knowingly. Oh dear I thought had I made the wrong decision.

So yesterday we spent in Otranto. It’s different. It had a wide blue bay for swimming and a little boat harbour on the side. It’s old town is charming. But it’s very touristy. Very crowded.

We did enjoy the beautiful mosaics in the Cathedral. Magnificent.

The castle perched squarely on the edge of the harbour has been restored and is used for exhibitions. We saw a wonderful photographic exhibition by Steve McCurry. He takes great photos of people in remote areas. So beautiful photos of people living in India, Cambodia, Pakistan , Africa. Such faces.
We had lunch and a small opera and continued walking along the sea front. It has more clothes shops and restaurants than Gallipoli but not the secret charm.

So as we drove back to Gallipoli I was happy with our decision.

Sunsets over the water are always breathtaking and we loved the one on show tonight. Almost the same colour as my Aperol Spritz!

Another lovely dinner at Tre Sorelle and a limoncello on the terrace of our Palazzo chatting and sharing stories with some Swizz travellers.

Oh I forgot to mention I still love vespers!

And so to bed. The room has a wonderful ceiling!

An Italian Opera

July 17, 2016January 2, 2017 / brisbanefrannie / 4 Comments

No we didn’t get to an Opera last night. We went out for dinner in a local osteria. It’s almost the same.

We joined the local passeggiata at apertivo time and enjoyed the atmosphere of Gallipoli. The village seemed quiet, but after siesta the whole town woke up and got onto the Main Street which of course is for pedestrians only.

We saw couples walking arm in arm. Babies sitting alert in their strollers learning about being Italian. Children scampering around and swinging on the chain fence surrounding the church. People sipping Aperol, Campari and wine red or white. And nibbling on olives.

We saw a young, just married couple walking through the town accepting all the well wishes from the locals. The husband, a policeman, was resplendent in his uniform with several friends looking equally wonderful.

Then we found a little restaurant that looked good. It had a crowd – which at 8.30 is amazing in Italy. And they weren’t tourists. So I went in and asked for a table to be told no. I decided to book (in my very best Italian) for the next night and used the name Francesca. Then the owner, who looked a little like an actor from a TV series, came over and said they would bring the table in from outside for us. Much scrambling around and …….. we were seated.

We had a wonderful meal. Probably the best (except of course the special one from the Grotto on day 1). We shared fritters of seafood so crisp and light they were delicious, along with grilled vegetables. Then Steve had sea beam baked in the oven topped with crisp mashed potato. I had fresh tuna with rocket and tomatoes and cheese. Yum!

No room for dessert or even gelato tonight. Though we did enjoy the limoncello offered with the bill. And then went out and bought a bottle for the room. Another addiction from my trips to Italy. Somehow it always tastes better here?

We were in a prime position to observe our fellow diners. There was the young couple obviously in love but also very hungry. The birthday table for a young woman’s celebration. And the table of fakes. I called them that because there was a lot of Botox going around. And fake boobs. Oh boy.

They went to leave and stood at the pay table where the own Mr TV series sat like mission control and I’m sure he strung out the farewell so he could have a good look.

So our night out was both delicious and entertaining. What more could we ask for?

Our little courtyard outside our room.

Gallipoli. No not we’re not in Turkey. We’re in Southern Italy!!!

July 17, 2016January 2, 2017 / brisbanefrannie / 1 Comment

Antonio came to wish us goodbye. Really it was to make sure we hadn’t wreaked havoc on his place and to retrieve the keys.

So we decided to head south. Gallipoli is only about 45 mins from Lecce but we decided to visit a few places on the way. So we headed south to a rather uninspiring place called Maglie. We wanted coffee so headed onto Scarrano and drove into a piazza filled with activity. There were cranes and men all working to take down amazing lights. Like Christmas but even more! It was to celebrate a Saint – St Dominica. I love these Italians and their zest for a festiva.

We headed for the coast and found a lovely spot – Porto Tricase , where a swim could have been great but the weather had turned windy. So we went further south to Novaglie. A little port with lots of rocks and people sitting all over them. We decided to have lunch then take the 2 hr boat trip for 15 euro to several of the natural grottos in the area. Fortunately the weather improved.

We boarded at 2 pm with 2 Italians in their 30’s and 9 Polish people. Three couples and 3 children. It turned out well. They were all lovely people. I understood most of what the boat captain was saying. He had no English and the Polish had no Italian, so Luna, the 30 something Italian girl did most of the translation.

We motored down the beautiful coast line and saw various grottos with descriptive names. We got to one where we were told it was very dangerous but we could swim through a blow hole to an inside pool. It was all in the timing. Well off we went and naturally I got the timing wrong and bumped my head as I dived under to go through the arch. Fortunately no blood! I got out ok though so all is good.

Then another grotto to enter. You had to swim then climb rocks over a hill to a fresh water lake. It was also described as dangerous. So sensibly Steve and I decided rock climbing dressed only in a costume was not for us. We swam in the outer grotto instead.

Back to shore and emails exchanged with our new friends and off we drove to Gallipoli.

Gallipoli is named Gall meaning point and Poli meaning city – and is a fishing village with the old town over a bridge to a small island.

We found our B&B – Palazzo Senape Pace just as a big windy storm broke. That certainly cooled things down.

Our room is on the roof of the Palazzo and I think the Grandad of the family-run business checked us in. It has lovely seating areas out side the three rooms on this level. It’s charming and the room itself really old world comfort. I love it!

We prepared for dinner. It was dinner with theatre as well. Not really theatre, just Italians being entertaining. A whole separate blog post!

View from our terrace.

Me enjoying the terrace.

The entrance to our Palazzo

A day to explore

July 11, 2016January 2, 2017 / brisbanefrannie / Leave a comment

We left Alberobella this morning after witnessing the fun run and visited a few nearby villages.

Runners making it in the heat.

A little boy stretches with his dad after the run.

I’m pleased we booked to stay there. Alberobella is a very interesting village but keep in mind that it is touristy. Arrive late in the afternoon when most the visitors are leaving.

We then stopped in Locorotonda which is another very nice village.

When visiting a church we happened upon a Christening. A little girl named Georgia. She was very good but after awhile got grizzly and cried. So Nonna to the rescue. She came forward out of her seat. Squeezed some drops into a dummy and pushed it in the baby’s mouth. Instant quiet. Sedation works!