Marine dei Ragusa to Agrigento – Tuesday

Outside Montalbano’s casa

Woke to sunny skies and went straight across the road for a swim. Cooler today with quite a wind blowing. Got in and did a swim with Steve but once again was put off by the waves! Bit fussy? Perhaps!
Packed and had breakfast . Never really very exciting at these place. Always light on the fruit and heavy on the breakfast cakes. Can’t be healthy can it?

Set off for my hero, Inspector Montalbano’s Casa at Punta Secca. It was just like in the TV show and there were a few other tourists having photos along with me. It’s set in a very small village and sits at the end of a small bay – where Montalbano swims each morning. I was sorry we hadn’t stayed here. Though the village was little it might have been lovely to be right at my hero’s house!

I was hoping to see him but Steve reminded me that it’s just on TV. I think he is so popular now that many Italian men are copying his bald head and calling it sexy! Which reminds me , the sexy Italian red pants for men are sadly not being worn his year! Is it too hot? Or have they had their day! Hope not as I rather like them.

Did not swim in Montalbano’s bay as it was far too windy so we just kept on towards Agrigento and wanted to stop at the Scala de Turchi – a beach where the white rocks run all the way down to the beach. We found it and had it been a still day may have swum but decided on a walk instead.

Steve was rather intrigued by the lifesaver so i’ll let him describe the scene a little later in the post.

Scala de Turchi

By 2pm we had arrived at our lovely B&B “Camera con vista” and what a vista – view, it has of the temples. The B&B is not in a village. It’s on its own down a road but the view to the park is wonderful   We are right on the Valley of the Temple. A good choice instead of staying in a crowded Agrigento . Our lovely host ( wearing the latest in glasses frames) told us the best way to “do” the Valley and we took his advice.

He suggested we get a taxi to the top entrance to the park and then walk down through the park ending at the bottom gate. Rom her it was a short walk back to the B&B. This was a perfect way to visit these amazing temples.  We had a great walk through these amazing temples and are now sitting on our private terrace , outside our huge room, having a refreshing beer and looking at the temples as we toast our luck in securing this place.

We decided we didn’t want to drive anywhere for dinner so arranged  Pizza tonight from a little local place. Haven’t had one yet!
So we got take away with take away vino rosso and we were set . We sat on our terrace and soaked up the view. see the view below –  romantic!

night view from our terrace

Sent from my iPad

Siracusa to Marine dei Ragusa Monday

Our lovely time in Ortygia – the island near Siracusa has come to an end. It was a lovely place for a few days and Hotel Roma was right in the centre of things.
Had breakfast outside the hotel and watched the small city of Ortygia come to life. Saw a little girl about 7 with a little pink dress and swinging ponytail running with her cheeky puppy. She ran up and down the piazza giggling and having fun. Dad stood nearby smoking and watching and offering encouraging words…. “Piano piano” slow slow!
Steve went off to collect the Avis car and I checked the luggage had been brought down and then we headed off.

Quite easy to navigate out of Siracusa and our first stop – for fruit and water was at a lovely holiday beach called Fontana Bianchi. It was fairly slow for a Monday with only a few swimmers. It looked really lovely and we nearly stopped for a swim. But we moved on- passing Noto where we had stayed the first night in Sicily. We arrived in Modica alto and even found parking but sadly the Cathedral was closed . We’d just missed it. It was standing high on a hill over looking the town which is divided into Modica Alto and Modica Basso. It’s Baroque in style and would have been lovely to see inside but – you miss one occasionally!

In the love seat in Ragusa

We continued on through rather nice countryside on a more minor road and came to Ragusa. It’s a really lovely place and we wandered the streets and even bought a book on Inspector Montalbano , one of my favourite TV shows and characters. It was all filmed around here and I almost choose to stay in his house which is really a B&B but decided on the slightly larger Marine dei Ragusa. I regretted this a little as it was quite a charming small village.

Fruit van outside the hotel

We arrived at a 4 star hotel! Well in their own mind it may have been,  but according to me ……. But it was opposite the water so we went straight down for a swim. Steve  did quite a marathon across the bay. I was a little more timid because there were WAVES . I thought the Mediterean was always still. Better be next week . Yes the swim begins next week .

I sat on our little terrace and watched the world go by and this little fruit van arrived and did a lot of calling out which attracted customers. He did a brisk trade.

Fun in the piazza at Marine dei Ragusa

We spent aperitif hour in the rather nice, though more modern piazza where the locals and the holiday makers all mixed together and everyone seemed to be having fun. We choose a restaurant with a view of the sea and finished as usual with a limoncello. Ahhhh and so to sleep.

Ortygia on a Sunday

Definitely had a slower start today. We’re staying at the Hotel Roma on Via Roma but in Ortygia ! And last night was party night in the town.

On the evening before we enjoyed a wonderful drink watching the street theatre / passing parade. We saw 3 nuns with v. comfy sandals. Three brides posing for photos, a man selling balloons, a girl on roller skates, a young boy fighting imaginary dragons with his sword, an African lady braiding hair and Micky Mouse!
All while drinking my evening Aperol spritz!

Piazza on a Sunday

For dinner we found a little “out of the way” Taverna recommended by the hotel. It was on a little piazza and setting up near by were part of the evening”show” in this case a lights and music festa. Lights were to be reflected into the wall of one of the ancient buildings. Took them ages and as usual the set up was more entertaining than the final show when it started an hour and a half later.
We enjoyed lovely food and shared a bottle of chilled white as the weather was so hot. We got to bed late after a great night.

So that’s why we were late starting today! Then it was coffee and a walk along the waterfront looking for the Avis car rental for tomorrow.
We decided to get the bus to the Parco Archelogico and see the Greek and Roman ruins. We had a long wait which gave us time to observe the locals. Interesting bunch!

The park was large and set up for the theatre that is presently on. If it had been opera we would have bought tickets as the setting in the Greek anfiteatro would be wonderful. But a Greek play! Not in the mood.The park was large and generally unkept and had absolutely no tourist friendly signs! Incredible. No maps, signs, nothing to help guide you around. We had our own guide book with a small section on the park but that was it.

Walked back through Siracusa crossed the bridge and had a drink at the first bar we saw in Ortygia . It is definitely the best place to stay. Loads of atmosphere.
Did a little shopping in the evening – Steve won the shopping for the day – 3 pairs of shoes!
Italian speaking going ok. Getting better each day.
Rest time now and then out for afternoon passeggiata and my Aperol spritz and Steve’s fav Campari.

Ortygia

Vincenzo , son of our driver.
Great shop selling lots of fish
Main fountain in Ortygia
We arrived in Ortygia from Noto with a driver organised by our host at the B&B in Noto. He was a lovely man and had his small son with him. I practiced my Italian with the little boy. Always good to speak to children. They don’t think you are so bad!
Our arrival into Ortygia was great. It’s a small island connected by a bridge and is just lovely. Our hotel,  the  ROMA was easily found and is right in the centre of town. Perhaps closer to the water would be good but we figured we wouldn’t be in the hotel all that much. And I was right!
Popular swimming spot in 35% heat
Local lads showing off!
In the back streets of Ortygia
Steve wandering the waterfront
Local swimming spot

Noto

S

Onto is a wonderful little baroque city with a magnificent cathedral.

We stayed at a wonderful B&B. It’s a big house and is now run by the son. His father had been a doctor and there Erene display cabinets set up showing the instruments he used in his practice.
An  over night stay here is a good idea to soak up the atmosphere.

Day 4: Valetta and Noto

Our last day in Valletta. Another hot night meant a fairly early start. We shared yoghurt and watched the boats on the harbour from our little verandah. Packed our bags and as I went to iron my dress ( yes even on holidays!) the iron had a leak and blew the power! Lucky we were leaving today. I phoned the lovely landlord Michael and explained what had happened. All was good and we left our packed bags ready to collect that afternoon .
We caught the no 52 bus to Mdina the old town about a 30 min away. It is heavily influenced by the Moors and is known as the quiet town. We wanted to arrive before the crowds (in busses off the cruise liners) and the heat so set off at 9. We got off the bus and walked through a small tree lined park and in through the ancient main gate. The town was clean, quiet and built with honey coloured sandstone . We bought our SENIORS ticket for the Cathedral and its museum and then went straight to the coffee shop of the Xara hotel. Gorgeous spot with beautiful views. Would love to stay in the hotel. Maybe next time! Brian and Jenny Byrne our friends (and Pandanus managers) are staying there in a few weeks.
After coffee and passing by St Dorothy’s the convent nearby (where we thought of our lovely Aunty Dorothy) we went to the cathedral. Fantastic – beautiful red curtains gave it an almost theatrical feel. The flowers were lovely (we think a wedding that afternoon) and when the crowds arrived we left and went to the museum. A wealth of gold and silver religious artefacts.
We walked around the wall, looking at the beautiful views and then visited Palazzo Falson.
I really like visiting houses belonging to local people, seeing them set up in way people lived. This one was very elegant and had a great commentary available with a little headset and wand you clicked as you entered each room. Very slick and worked so well.

By now it was hot with a capital H so we sought refuge in La Fontanel right on the wall with amazing views. Had another seafood thing – all my meals so far have involved sea food! Maybe I’m working on the theory that if I eat enough seafood I might swim like a fish! Here’s hoping!!!
After lunch we strolled in the shade of the buildings across to Rabat the town outside the ancient gates. Rabat is a common name for a town. and today we found out it actually means suburb.

To escape the heat we headed for the church of St Paul to visit his chapel with the catacombs under it. It was without bones but was cool!

Made out way back to Valletta and collected our bags from the apartment and after just a minor drama had a taxi deliver us to the port for our catamaran ferry to Pozzalla in Sicily.
It was a really easy comfortable ride across the calm waters (in an Australian built vessel) and spectaular leaving Valletta harbour by boat. We arrived in the port at Pollozzo at around 8 . We’d booked a taxi to save dramas with buses and found him waiting .

But life in Italy is nothing without a drama. Noto – here we come. Well we made it despite the taxi driver having a little “Italian Opera” about the location of our B&B. This was a good choice. Large rooms and a larger than life host – Giovanni. He sent us to a typical Trattoria for dinner Italian-style and it was terrific. We then walked the main start and saw all the locals enjoying a FRiday night together. Lots of chat, gelato and no drunk kids anywhere.

Day 3: Malta

A leisurely start to the day and a cab ride down to Avis to pick up a car. “Robbed” by the cabbie – but that is life! Took a long while to get the paperwork done but finally on the road. First stop – Marsaxlokk in the South. Very cute fishing village. We manged to see it all, and Steve bought yet another model boat! Very pretty! Breakfast and away before the tourist buses off the cruise ships in Valetta arrived!

Marsaxlokk
Marsaxlokk markets
An addition to the fleet

Driving here is a bit different – the distances are only short but the roads very narrow and extremely rough. We discovered that our little car had a very dodgy front-end suspension – and worst of all the air-conditioning didn’t work!

Ghar Lapsi

Next stop was on the West coast at Ghar Lapsi – in the middle of nowhere but a cute little ocean swimming inlet. Shared the water with some folk from Brisbane!

Bozo and friend go to Gozo

We then headed North to get the car ferry across to Gozo – the subtitle for today’s adventure is “Bozo goes to Gozo”. The landscape all over is very dry with hardly any trees and more stone fences than you have ever seen. The water is a clear and as blue as you could imagine.

We pottered around Gozo – saw some preparations for a festival (St Lorenzo?) and caught the views from the fort at Victoria – in the centre of the island and quite dominating.

Festival preparations at Xewkija

From Victoria

Then down to Masalforn for a light lunch and a swim – very refreshing. We then drove around some adjacent beaches and also saw some ancient salt pans – really interesting land forms.

Salt Pans
Xwenji
ir-Ramla

“The” beach on the island (sand!) is at ir-Ramla. No lifesavers on duty – just a statue of Madonna and Child to watch over the bathers. We had an cool drink and a look – and then the car wouldn’t start. Aided by a really helpful young local we got going (some weird occurrence in the ignition / immobiliser that self corrected!) and took off for the ferry back to the main island. Made it just in time!

Drive back to Valetta was uneventful and we handed the car back and retired to the apartment to freshen up before dinner. Special treat – restaurant called ll Horza. We were the only customers (it seats about 10 people!) which often is not a good sign. However we had the full attention of both owner and his chef and had a superb meal (including the most delicious tuna sausages) and much complimentary grappa etc to conclude. Bravo!

ll Horza

Day 2: Malta

We did a little”housekeeping before setting off for breakfast  – at one of the oldest cafes in Valletta -Cafe Cordina. We had a breakfast smoothie then we shared a kind of bacon and egg roll – called a rather fancy Maltese name.
We got to the Palace for the 9am opening but it didn’t open till 10. So down the road to Casa Rocco -a lovely Palazzo still lived in by the family who have had it in the family for 100 years. We even saw the old owner returning from an outing. It’s a great way to see how people lived all those years ago
We had a good nights sleep – our bedroom faces the harbour and the lights outside make it quite light even at night – but we managed to sleep. The weather is very warm – around 30 at the moment, so we’ve been thrown into summer again. It’s rather humid and is like our summer.

 
Casa Rocca 
In the entry hall

Entrance staircase at Casa Rocco

View from the gardens

The boys racing in Vittorosa

One of the three ancient towns

Day1: Malta

What a journey! Our flights with Emirates were all terrific and towards the end from Dubai via Lanarca we bonded with the cabin steward and he took some photos! Not sure if the 26+hours of  travel have me looking my best but it was good fun.
   

He  took some photos and presented them to us  in little Emirates photo frames. he took them with one of those polaroid cameras   

We were tickled to think our pilots on the last leg were Americans named Chuck and Randy and trusted with names like that they weren’t more used to driving bulls not planes.

Nevertheless we arrived in Malta to warm sunny conditions with the bluest of blue skies. Our apartment owner Michael met us in arrivals and drove us to the apartment. The apartment is (as friend Jill said “fairly modest”) but in a great position and has wonderful views of Valetta harbour.

Grand Harbour from our apartment
From our apartment

We quickly freshened up and wenт off to explore Valletta.
It’s a gorgeous old town with lots of up and down sloping streets. The afternoon light made it seem so beautiful. It’s on a peninsula with the Grand Harbour for big ships on the side our apartment is on.

 

our apartment
our street

We walked around the streets and found our way to the water and just walked. The buildings are built with the softest pink stone and look wonderful –  even the crumbling ones look great.

Steve has already brought his Mediterranean trip hat, and I have as well. It’s always our first stop: new hat, map, check out the sights and then a beer for Steve and an Aperol spritz for me.
So all is good!

The man in the hat
Palazzo