Bozcaada : an island to visit

A friend suggested a visit to Bozcaada – an island about 2 hrs from Canakkale.

As we had arrived in Canakkale a day earlier than we were meant to, so decided to go.

We caught the ferry down. We were told it took 1hr but it took 2hr. Mind you, it was pleasant sitting on the deck looking at the Gallipoli side of Turkey slip by.

We arrived into a blue harbour dominated by a castle with a small beach area in front with lots of umbrellas and sun lounges.

Making our way away from the harbour we found some local markets. I love markets in foreign countries. There are so many similarities but differences as well. Especially the cost! The tomatoes were about $1 a kilo. They looked magnificent.

The local crafts were beachy and not all mass produced and there was a very good book barn with its own cat sleeping amongst the books.

Coffee was under shady trees at the markets alongside lots of locals playing a version of Mahjong. We made our way up the leafy laneway and found some great restaurants, coffee shops, little boutiques and Greek style housing.

It was getting hot so we hailed a taksi and went to Asyama Bay. It’s water was aquamarine and soft sand was covered in little rattan umbrellas that swayed and bobbed in the breeze.

Renting an umbrella and two deck chairs for the day was 35TL – about $A8. There was also an excellent set up to have a shower and little cabins to change clothes.

Swimming in relays so one of us could mind our bags, worked up an appetite so we chose one of the restaurants along the narrow road above the beach.

I had stuffed zucchini flowers and a green salad and Steve enjoyed kofta.

Back to the beach for more swimming and snoozing before heading back to the town for the ferry. There was just enough time for an ice cream. And to see another bride!

We got the free ferry across to the mainland – 1/2 hr. Then a small local bus back to Canakkale. It was quite long about 1.5hr but interesting as the locals hopped on and off with their shopping and we meandered through villages.

If going to Bozcaada perhaps go down on the ferry at 9am and back on the free ferry and bus. Unless they put on a fast ferry!

Our new swim trek friends Vanessa and George are at the same hotel. They’re swimming Hellespont as well. In fact Vanessa won her age group a few years ago.

We had some great Turkish food and then a beer on the roof top of our hotel looking out across the water they’ll be swimming across in two days time.

Ephesus to Canakkale for the Hellespont swim

We shared a taksi to İzmir dropping Betty at the Airport and then onto the bus station for our Pamulkkale bus north.

It was going to be a 6 hr drive but the buses here are great.

Off we went on time and after a ticket check our ‘steward‘ – a young man neatly dressed – brought around the free ice cream. What a treat.

The free wifi was good if somewhat slow and the ride was comfortable. After another hour our host came along with a cart and provided tea, coffee, cola or water with a selection of snacks. All free. This was better than some airlines!

We had a comfort stop at the next town and then a few more pick ups in towns. We were a little late arriving as we got stuck behind a truck.

I’ve been to Canakkale before many years ago. We visited Gallipoli, a very moving experience. We had stayed at Canakkale. I think it’s grown since then. There’s some very modern buildings and lots more bars and restaurants.

Steve is here to do the iconic Hellespont swim. It’s the Lord Byron swim from Eceabat across the straight to Canakkale. It attracts a huge number of swimmers: many Turkish and the foreigners who book through Swim Trek.

Tomorrow we head to Bozcaada an island nearby.

Ephesus: a look back into the past.

We slept well but the call to prayer at 5am and the local roosters crowing made it an early start.

Breakfast of ripe tomatoes, an egg and delicious fruits in the lovely garden was a good start to our day. It’s such a healthy breakfast.

We got a ‘taksi’ to the top gate and started our tour. We decided we wanted to move at our own pace and had an audio guide – which is always a good way to go.

Amazing view of the ancient city

There were a few tour groups there but not enough to bother us. It got very hot as we moved around so we hovered like cows under any available tree as we listened to history being brought alive.

What a story is Ephesus. It’s truly amazing to see. The Temple in Agrigento Sicily was great, as are the Roman forum, the Parthenon, Pompeii – but this is altogether amazing. A walled city being rediscovered. The way people lived was described and you could see evidence of the houses, the spa, the latrines, shops, library, amphitheatre, workshops. Everything.

This was one of the most important cities of the ancient world. It was on the Silk Road which made trade so important. It was ruled by Roman, Greek, Byzantine and taken by the Arabs who destroyed it.

We walked for around 2 hours and exited along the promenade of trees to the car park.

Back to Selcuk and the bus station to plan our trip to Canakkale tomorrow when sadly Betty leaves us. It’s been wonderful having her along on this swim trek adventure but she’s heading home to LA.

We returned to yesterday’s restaurant for lunch as it was so good.

Then the Ephesus museum gave respite against the middle of the day heat. It’s a wonderfully curated museum with many examples of the items people of Ephesus used in everyday life – pottery bowls, utensils, weapons, coins along with statues and busts of famous people.

The carpet men of Selçuk.

Walking back to our hotel we passed a carpet Emporium. It looked good and quiet so we went in and met a very nice man who explained the techniques of weaving – .they are keeping these traditional ways of weaving alive as they are a centre for weaving workshops. It was so interesting.

We got talking about styles – Kilams, wool on wool, wool and cotton, silk.

I started thinking about our house and where I could put a Turkish rug. We have one already but to buy a beautiful one here and get the story would be special.

Betty has a kilam hanging on her wall at home. She’d bought it for $US259. She had a photo of it and the master historian was able to explain the meaning behind the symbols.

We ending up loving a hall runner. It has stripes, running water and tree houses – which really appealed as Steve is about to build one for Oliver! It also has tied off fringing which indicates it’s a dowry rug.

So we bought it – to be shipped home. Hopefully it arrives. But I did feel confident. The men were not at all pushy. – not like when we’d been in Istanbul! We accepted their hospitality and had drink with them.

We had another BBQ in the garden at Paradise. Such a great day, our last with my wing woman Betty.