Our day started with breakfast on the terrace

A short walk up Via Maquardo to Teatro Massimo to meet Hermes – our guide.

Hermes pointed out if we wanted to find out about art, churches and galleries then we were on the wrong tour.

He was here to walk us through the history of the Mafia.

He explained the reason he has made it a lifetime crusade. When he was 6, he remembers hearing the sounds of a huge bomb exploding on the motorway near his house. It was the bomb that killed the anti mafia judge Falcone and his wife.

It was after this happened that people began to object and say NO. Businesses targeted to pay Pizzo started to say no more payments will be made. It has grown. Shops show a sign to show they are not paying’pizzo’ or ‘protection ‘ money to the mafia.

Hermes led us to various sights and we sat – in the shade thankfully and listened to how the mafia operated with shops. the police, the church, politicians and how it has changed over the years. But still they exist.

We walked through the markets towards the courts.

We finished outside the fountain of shame. Called this because it has many nude statues. And either side of the fountain is a church and a convent. It was considered shameful for the nuns to have to look at the nude statues !

A visit to the nuns bakery for the best cannoli in town. They were huge. And I forgot to get a picture.

It was noon and hot so back to our hotel across the road for a cool down

At 2pm we hit the streets again. To visit the Royal Palace and the Palatine Chapel – another Roger 1 build when he conquered Sicily in 1130 something !

The Palace is used for Parliament sittings except when open to the public.

As usual lots of stairs to climb. but definitely worth it for the Chapel. It’s stunning with its mosaics

I discovered Elliot Erwitt. A photographer his exhibition was in the palace and is stunning.

Back down the Via to the cathedral which is very grand. Inside was a buzz of noise. All the locals were gathering ! Something was happening. The Franciscan friars were all strolling in looking hot.

Locals were greeting them and showering them with double kisses and holding little portable fans to their hot sweaty faces. Everyone else was fanning away. It was fascinating to watch.

Back to our room to freshen up. We were having mother Marion and her daughters Grace and Celia meet us on our terrace for drinks.

They were on the swim trek and we saw them here yesterday and arranged a drink.

The day still wasn’t over !

After drinks and grazing plates Steve and I left for Teatro Massimo. We wanted to see their opera theatre and found a concert. Opera favourites. Starting at 9pm it was late for us!

We walked home at around 10.30 exhausted. And the city was coming alive!